A cluster of five mountains like ancient trusting friends encompass Lake Como with tales to tell. They tower to the horizon in a domineering maze of peaks, deep irregular valleys, and crusted sheer-sided facings. Deeply sculptured from wind and rain, and often cloud-covered, they stand like faithful world-worn sentinels. Tagged the Pre-Alps, the mountains cast long shadows across the lake’s glacier-formed deep blue water creating a textured moment of sun and shade. Residents and visitors alike recognize that in only a few places on the planet are water and mountains in such remarkable intimacy and the recognition inspires soft expressions of awe and delight.

The mountains of Lake Como, like so much of Italy, refer to the past, where the Romans once roamed, dusty cathedrals with rusty bells abound, and villages and towns such as Como, Bellagio, and other hamlets are entrenched on the shores of the lake or carved into the mountains with steep staircases. Tunnels were dug through granite and sandstone leading to narrow two-lane roadways originally designed for horse and carriage, all magically sculpted into the base of the mountains with a master chisel. The mountains have been compassionate and patient, but for those searching for a parking space is when a lucky moment can happen.

Lake Como, the third largest lake in Italy and the deepest, a short 40-minute train ride from Milan, resembles a scrawny, long-legged inverted “Y”. Master artists with easels in hand are challenged, writers and poets search for their voice, starry-eyed long- awaited proposals ring true, and where many experience a rejuvenation of spirit in the ever-changing and wistful essence of this extraordinary setting. The magic of Lake Como has exerted its pull for hundreds of years; aristocrats, royalty, and people with wealth were captivated and built fascinating palaces, mansions, and villas overlooking the lake with terraced gardens, sculptures, and fountains, some with enough rooms to house a small army, while others are only accessible by boat.

Carefully maintained Taxi Boat Varenna motorboats operated by skippers with immense skills slice through the water leaving a trail of foam cleverly avoiding the reliable ferry and gleaming white sailboats with sails billowing, while taking passengers on a lake tour or to their hotel. Nevertheless, the mountains dominate: as resident and travel consultant Celia Abernethy said, “At any given time there are more hikers in Lake Como than sailors because the mountains offer some of the best hiking in Italy, laced with trails for all levels of fitness and with views forever.“

Cruising the lake via a motorboat or tour boat, villages and small towns appear at lake’s edge like a colorful mosaic.

Lecco Living

On this day in October, the sun glistens on the ruffled water and large groups of tourists have found their way to Bellagio, dining at sidewalk cafes, waiting for a lake tour, and crowding the Bellagio shopping passageway. Energetic servers bustle about to meet their client’s needs, and numerous languages collide in the lake air. To enhance and retain the magic of Lake Como and gently slip away from the tourist trail, the town of Lecco, a 30-minute drive from Bellagio on the eastern branch of the lake, where Lake Como narrows to form the Adda River, is an unspoiled and authentic homebase unfamiliar to most Lake Como visitors.

A great strolling town with pedestrian walkways and a riverside promenade, Lecco is the perfect place to meet Lake Como residents and browse family-owned boutiques not found in Milan, to take pleasure in two large town squares lined with sidewalk cafes, and to see the remains of a Roman wall that once encircled the city and a striking stone bridge spanning the river dating to 1386. Hiking and cycling paths that could take weeks to fully explore can be arranged with or without a guide, and provide a chance to visit farms producing honey, cheese and produce, and with luck catch a quick glimpse of the elusive Lake Como fox. A few days in Lecco is Lake Como validated.

Lake Como Cooking

Remaining off the beaten path, Mandello del Lario, an alluring port village tucked away between Lecco and Varena on the eastern leg of the lake, is home to Mamma Ciccia Cooking Academy. Mamma Ciccia, ala Silvia Nessi, a tall, attractive blonde, has been offering the popular four-hour classes in English for ten years at her restaurant, and often features Michelin-starred guest chefs. For children ages four to ten, a session called “Cooking is a game” pulls them into the fun and art of cooking. Smiling, she said, “For visitors to really understand Lake Como and Italy’s culture one has to fully explore the cuisine.”

In the hills above Bellagio, the 17-room, family-owned, Hotel II Perlo Panorama, circa 1922, offers one of Lake Como’s most spectacular dining vistas from a terrace that seems to be floating in the clouds. The meal itself is a romantic, five-minute-kiss lunch or dinner with award-winning Executive Chef Redolfi Alessandro who sources organic produce from local farms and perch and whitefish from the lake. For hundreds of international travelers to Lake Como the hotel is a priority and enhances the magic of Lake Como.

When You Go

Contact Travel Consultant, Celia Abernethy for Lake Como and Milano itineraries and travel guidance at ed****@mi*********.com ; Mamma Ciccia’s Cooking Academy, in**@ma*********.it ; www.mammaciccia.it; full day lake tour, Taste & Travel, guide, Elena Pettinicchio; www.tasteandtravelitaly.com; water Taxi & Boat, Hotel II Perlo Panorama, in**@il*****.com.

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A large brown building adjacent to the Rose Bowl in Pasadena California, two days before the famed 137 Rose Parade, themed “The Magic in Teamwork” with Grand Marshall, former Laker basketball player, Magic Johnson, leading the way, hosts an incredible scene of controlled chaos. Massive floats: Honda, Princess Cruises and the States of Mississippi and Louisianna, are covered amidst scaffolding and ladders, with tables of flowers and tools, while a fusion of workers, volunteers, and artists are focusing on finishing details. Narrow, slippery passage ways are filled with hustling workers, as the bouquet of flowers and plants tickle the nose.

The scene is a tug at the heart, the art work created with flowers, seeds, barks and natural foliage are museum quality, and seems as if it should be preserved for ever. A mother and son in a wheelchair, decorating the Princess Cruise float, who at that moment had been working on the float for eight straight hours, the mother, stopped for a moment, looked up and smiled, this is my 36th experience here, while numerous others said this was their seventh or eighth float challenge, and not necessarily a social gathering but smiles and hugs at the end of the day. The Princess Cruise float depicts the newest ship in their fleet, the Star Princess, which had its maiden voyage, in October 2025, departing from Barcelona. The artists and volunteers have created a float with 300,000 flowers, and somehow have artistically depicted an Inside Passage journey with towering glaciers, eagles, whales, bears with eyes that stare back at you in wonderment, and waves that seem wet to the touch. Then you realize underneath all this finery is a motor vehicle to move 42, artistically decorated floats more than five miles down Colorado Boulevard. As one volunteer said, “Viva 2026!”

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The natural world of grapes, leaves, and twigs are stunning, consuming, eyes, ears, nose and fingertips with the maze of brilliant green vines, the rustle of soft leaves fluttering in the light breeze, the earthy smell of the soil, and the rough texture of the illustrious vine trunks growing out of the ground as stubborn and stiff as the gnarled legs of an ancient human. Time stands still for a moment at the heart of this vigorous vineyard, as if it is holding its breath in anticipation of the drinkable art this man creates from the bounty of nature.

The sun slips behind wispy clouds, the flight of a hawk casts a brief shadow over the restless green, as Herold, soft-spoken, introspective, and unassuming, gently touches a cluster of fledging grapes the size of small pearls. Full of promise as yet unfulfilled, they are reminders of the often-unpredictable rhythm of life in a vineyard, and a private space for embracing new discoveries, holding on to old secrets, and bearing the burden of history. Tiered hills with vines creeping skyward create a sanctuary for work and life and stewardship. Here, Herold underwent an intense journey while grappling with the sheer multiplicity of variables in Napa’s micro-climate, the changing balance of rainfall and sunshine, Napa’s 33 different soil series, the vagaries of harvesting and fermentation, a mosaic of 44 different wine grape varieties, and more. With great resolve, he created prize-winning wines with the care Van Gogh devoted to his paintings.

The Bennett Vineyard is hallowed ground where Herold first sourced the fruit from which he created the wine that launched him into the world of wine-making and earned his reputation as the founder of the esteemed Merus wine. Touching a vine and carefully examining a leaf, he said, “I like to plant so the sun is overhead. The leaves protect the grapes. You can feel the energy in the vines; it surrounds you. There is so much life here! I see mountain lions, coyotes, and migrating wild turkeys that unfortunately love the fruit.” Gazing at the rows of vines that were spread across the terrain in a mesmerizing pattern designed by a master craftsman and smiling, he continued, “For me, a vine that struggles does not make good wine. A happy vine is happy wine.”

Panama City

One of five children, Herold was born in Newport, California, and at age four moved to Panama City in the early 1960’s when Panama and the United States were struggling for control of the Panama Canal and debating which flag should be flown at its entrance and exit. Herold’s father, Raymond, was a successful psychiatrist, and, along with his wife Marisa, an avid angler noted for catching world-record sailfish. “I had a special childhood in Panama,” Herold says. “I loved to bike around the city, skateboard, and fish with my parents. I was a kitchen helper and my mother was a lasting influence. My parents always entertained a lot. They served French wine at dinner and there were always lots of flowers on the dining room table and in the house. Helping in the kitchen, I thought the smells were exceedingly persuasive and memorable, and to this day I love to cook.”

Mark was fully immersed in the vibrant culture of Panama, absorbing the cuisine of his Panamanian mother, the lifestyle of a Panamanian fisherman, and the practiced skill and anxiety of casting a line into a ruffled sea. At age 16, when hormones are rampaging and life is both buoyant and intense, his parents divorced and Herold moved north to Southern California with his father. The transformation of cultures was an enormous windfall for Mark Herold. Fluent in Spanish, he now lived in a State noted among the world’s great wine producers with more than 2,000 wineries and growing. His persistent wine and vine alter ego, a tenacious shadow always lingering about, was exceedingly pleased with his new home.

Bordering on being a professional student and at one time planning to study culinary arts in Paris, Herold enrolled at U.C. Davis and was honored with a Ph.D. in Ecology with an emphasis on nutritional bio-chemistry. While at Davis, he hooked up with a professor who owned a winery and immersed himself in the fall harvest as a volunteer. Mark was finally following his heart. For two productive years, the large family-owned Joseph Phelps Winery was Herold’s stomping ground. Hired as a Research Enologist, he studied the art and science of winemaking and the phenolic profiles of grapes, which was an important stepping-stone on his path.

Magical Meru

Sitting in his Napa tasting room, a swordfish mounted on the wall, he said, “I simply was fed up working with other people. I felt confident and thought if they can do it, I can do it.” In 1998, in a three-car garage in the heart of Napa with six borrowed French oak barrels from friends and family, he and his former wife Erika Gottl created Merus, which in Latin means pure, unmixed, undiluted and completely absolute. For Herold, it means making wine from the most carefully chosen fruit in exceedingly small quantities, with unsparing attention to detail, striving always to reach a new level of excellence. “To make it work,” Herold said, “we often shared tastings with the neighbors and particularly those who were not too happy with us, and thankfully, after a few years, we finally outgrew the garage.” Merus was a huge local and international winner offering intense complexity and color from fully mature fruit.

Sharing Expertise

Mark Herold’s entrance into the world of wine was confirmed with the opening of his own Napa tasting room, and appointments as consulting winemaker at the exclusive Celani Family Vineyards and winemaker at the award-winning Kamen Estate Wines. Owner and vintner Robert Kamen, an articulate and passionate screen writer and producer of 20 major films said, “Mark Herold has to be among the top three Napa Valley winemakers. He’s consistently produced world-class wines. His wines take on a personality, and he has a close relationship with Latino growers and workers and uses Spanish every day. Mark is creative and precise, operating on two levels, art and science, and with his own form of organization allows the grapes to speak through the wine.”

The Bennett Vineyard, a Napa garden of dreams gracefully blessed with a veil of emerald green, is vibrant beneath a lively sun and the gate is always left open for Mark Herold.

Tasting Time

• Mark Herold Wines, 710 First St., Napa, California
• Celani Family Vineyards, by appointment only.
• Kamen Estate Wines, 111 B East. Napa

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PARIS, France — Magically enchanting and much-loved Paris, the Urban Empress of Europe, remains eternally young and amorous. Occasionally vain, always passionate, and with a long and turbulent history, the legendary city has a special flair for life that has captivated many of the world’s most inspired artistic talent.

French plaque honoring Hemingway — Left Bank of Paris

After the Great War and during the 1920s and ‘30s, Paris was the place to be for artists and the forward-thinking avant-garde looking to etch their mark, while novelists and writers quickly recognized that it was far easier to be acknowledged by the small innovative Parisian publishing companies than to catch an editor’s eye in the States.

During this most exhilarating period in 20th Century American Literature, Paris was the destination for an amazing assortment of international expatriates, including some 30,000 Americans many clutching one-way tickets to the City of Lights.

Some arrived in Paris in search of panache and identity, while others, overwhelmed by the complex and tenacious city, became lost in heart-wrenching dreams of discovery and triumphant achievements.

The French franc was a colossal friend, the exchange rate a whopping 25 to 35 francs to the dollar, while Paris’ free-flowing alcohol was a further attraction as long as hard-line prohibition had the upper hand in the United States. Parisian nightlife, animated cabarets, freethinking ladies, and French wine were all treasures to behold.

Hemingway’s Paris. He lived nearby.

On the vibrant Left Bank of Paris, in the Latin Quarter and Montparnasse, Ernest Hemingway and wife Hadley, bespectacled James Joyce struggling to publish Ulysses, and F. Scott Fitzgerald with his flamboyant wife Zelda, both giddy from the publication of The Great Gatsby, had settled in, along with photographer Man Ray, always ready to capture the moment. Pablo Picasso and writers Ezra Pound, Djuana Barnes, Nancy Cunard, Sherwood Anderson, and eccentric John Dos Passos, along with a memorable list of other authors and artists, were also part of the heady Paris scene, and friends of Hemingway.

Bigger than life and significant to the literary and artistic scene, Gertrude Stein, writer, serious art collector, and a remarkable influence on writers and artists, cleverly tagged the exiles The Lost Generation, backed by her jealous lover, Alice B. Toklas, who fiercely disliked Hemingway. The exiles included a cast of street characters with stories to tell, who were lounging at sidewalk cafes often deep into their cups, discussing literature, sharing gossip and jealousies, wondering where life and careers were headed and when the next dollar would materialize.

Hemingway’s Paris — Left Bank

Mercifully, much of the great city has remained suspended in a timeless bubble, making it easy to relive the Lost Generation, to tread on the ancient stones that Hemingway and friends negotiated, sit at the same sidewalk cafes and restaurants, see the gardens, hotels, churches, cathedrals, and lodgings that once upon a time were their stomping grounds.

The reflective adventure comes together with Oriel and Peter Caine’s prestigious Paris Walking Tours, founded in 1994 and recommended by the Paris Tourist Office. The Caine’s, who are themselves esteemed authors and scholars, engage knowledgeable English-speaking guides whose contributions to the tour include appropriate humor and fascinating encyclopedic insights.

Paris walks — Hemingway’s Paris

Following the guides through any of the two-hour walks, Hemingway’s Paris, Writers of the Left Bank, The Village of Montmartre or Saint Germain-des-Pres, gives the sense of having moved through time, setting the stage for an irresistible mélange of literary and artistic history.

A magnificent destination of monuments and striking architecture, each turn of a Parisian corner invites a celebration of the senses that embellishes the timeless link to Hemingway, and a city glowing with imperishable splendor and earthiness that can grab your heart and hang on for a lifetime.

Hemingway’s favorite restaurant where he worked on
“The Sun Also Rises” and short stories

Via a touch of imagination supported by the images of Woody Allen’s excellent film, Midnight in Paris, and Hemingway’s memoir recalling his life in Paris, A Moveable Feast, one can envision him strolling along the narrow, winding cobblestone streets, Fitzgerald at his side, Zelda, edging between them wildly dancing the tango and hoping for an open bar.

With Lost Generation thoughts flowing, you might hear a bit of Hot Jazz and pass by Kiki, the classy lady of the night, a favorite artist’s model, who never met a man she didn’t like. You might pick out Josephine Baker’s bluesy voice, floating through the night air from the intensely popular Folies Bergere where Baker, a favorite of Hemingway, often performed in her adopted homeland with Chiquita, her pet Cheetah.

Gertrude Stein’s home and salon at 27 rue de Fleurus, now a private resident, once decorated with priceless Gauguin, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, and Cezanne paintings and long noted as the most distinguished salon in all Paris, was an important gathering place for a coterie of famous artists, writers, and trend-setters including Hemingway and European Royalty.

Down the street, Malcolm Cowley, famed writer, poet, and critic, lived and wrote at 1 rue de Fleurus. Famous for having reportedly once floored Hemingway in a friendly boxing match, Cowley became the spokesman of the 1920s American expatriates.

A celebrated bookstore for Hemingway and other famous writers

Sylvia Beach’s Shakespeare and Company on rue l’Odeon, the only English-language bookstore on the Left Bank, was another celebrated gathering place for writers. Writers could buy or borrow books there, Hemingway often noted for doing the latter.

The bookstore closed in 1941 during the German occupation of Paris and never reopened, but in 1951 another Shakespeare and Company opened in tribute to Sylvia Beach. Steps from the Seine and the Notre Dame Cathedral, the bookstore, featured in Midnight in Paris, buzzes with camera-toting visitors with a literary liking.

Hemingway’s Residence, Left Bank of Paris

After experiencing the famed bookstore, it’s astounding to walk past the Hemingway’s old neighborhood on rue Mouffetard where they rented their first apartment on the third floor at 74 rue du Cardinal Lemoine. A small women’s clothing store on the ground floor is aptly named Under Hemingway’s.

Hemingway’s Paris: La Rotonde, Boulevard du Montparnasse

Along Boulevard du Montparnasse are a cluster of legendary cafes; La Rotonde, La Coupole, Le Dome, and Le Select, home to Mickey a 19-year old cat, all within walking distance, all fashionable today, just as they were when they were the center of life in the 1920s with their people-watching sidewalk tables, and churlish waiters.

Reams of material have been written about the significant cafes and their eminent patrons, but Hemingway’s preferred café, also on Montparnasse, was La Closerie des Lilas. He often sat in the corner with a cafe crème, writing some of his finest short stories and working on his brilliant novel, The Sun Also Rises.

Hemingway’s bar: La Closerie de Lilas

Incredibly, the bar retains its period ambience confirmed by a framed black and white photo, circa 1920s. A small copper plaque inscribed with his name is embedded in the bar, along with a small photo of him above the bar. One can imagine Hemingway sitting here chatting with Fitzgerald and Joyce, while in the background Cole Porter is playing the piano to an audience of wistful lovers on the prowl. Years later, one of Hemingway’s numerous haunts was the famed Ritz Hotel on rue Cambon, where his name is now honored with the intimate Hemingway Bar. Hemingway spent his time in the hotel imbibing aperitifs with the celebrities of the day and observing the carefully coifed, costumed, and accessorized French women, who were undeniably elegant.

Ritz Hotel, Paris

Ritz Hotel, Paris — Hemingway’s Bar

Nearby, the mighty Seine, dotted with barges and sight-seeing boats, flows along tree-lined walks where embracing couples shimmer and shake, brusque vendors sell books, prints, and paintings, and old-timers cast for fish.

Hemingway and wife Hadley lived above this boutique

Parisians remark that the more Paris changes, the more it stays the same. For Hemingway, the City of Lights was an ageless enclave of beauty, style, and history, and where, through much effort, his distinctive writing style developed.

When You Go

Contact Paris Walks at, www.paris-walks.com; pa***@*********ks.com; check the five-star Paris Sightseeing Pass offering visitors access to over 60 top attractions including the sightseeing bus, metro, a Seine cruise, and other discounts. www.parispass.com

Related Articles:
Versailles and Avignon; Montpellier, France; Provence; Monet’s Gardens, Giverny

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A Forkful of Travel

The grassy smell of earth is steadfast while the swirling rhythms of Ireland are creating an ecstatic visual harmony, as a wash of air ruffles the trees. The sea, mutating from turquoise to deep blue, to hues of green, is etched and sliced by the wind with little streaks of warmth, as the sun beats a ceaseless tempo. The Irish landscape opens to mossy hillsides, thick woodlands, a canopy of leafy trees lining the roadway, lush fields with grazing horses’ tails twitching, and small fishing villages with small-town charm. Our memorable and narrow two-lane back road route is leaving the wall of traffic behind and leading us past the mysterious beauty of the ageless Norman and Anglo-Irish castles, endless and classic hand-made dry stone walls, a designated UNESCO World Heritage site designed by ancient master craftsman. The road continues past Georgian architecture, thatched cottages and huge, lavish country estates with immaculate gardens and fine dining.

Medieval round stone towers, built from the 9th to the 12th centuries for defensive purposes and habitation for wealthy families, protrude skyward in the lush landscape, and appear like lost ancient watchtowers in search of a home. Eight implausible national parks are scattered throughout the island, where delicate spider webs cast shadows against the bushes, while green mottled paths cut across the landscape made by animals who come for a drink during the darkness of night. A mist rises in luminous tendrils disclosing a feel of another time as a large bird launches from the weathered roof at St. Cronan’s Church of England in County Clare, dating to the 10th century.

Traveling the back roads, Ireland’s esteemed treasures of a vanished era are vividly brought back to life with Dublin-based, John Colclough, who has an astounding photographic memory, an intense love for his country, and can open doors to the ageless and mysterious splendor of Ireland’s castles. It’s estimated that some 10,000 castles and ruins are scattered throughout the landscape, with most dating from the 12th to the 16th centuries., while Killyleagh Castle in Northern Ireland, dating back to 1180. These castles were once homes to royalty, as well as centers of religion, fortification, and detention. However, comfort and ease of living was adrift in the massive, damp and musty, lime or sandstone rooms and during the numerous wars all was lost if the spiral staircase was destroyed. Suspending history in place, several castles and former castle sites have been ingeniously transformed into ultra-luxurious five-star hotels and restaurants, earning recognition as some of the best in Europe.

Ashford Castle

Ashford Castle, built in stages as far back as 1228 in French Chateau-style, is bordered by 350-acres of attractive gardens, fastidiously manicured grounds, and the serene Lough Corrib, the largest lake on the island. At first sight of the castle and its imposing limestone façade, imaginations take flight. One envisions the rumble of a grand, four-wheeled carriage drawn by two sturdy horses, guided by a proud coachman in a black top hat, with an eager young footman holding a lit taper, leading two elegantly dressed, veiled ladies to the entrance. The five-star Ashford, in the West of Ireland in County Mayo is listed in the Red Carnation collection, once the home of the Guinness family. It is unbridled Irish luxury with gleaming Waterford Crystal chandeliers, rooms with silk-lined walls, era antiques, and Egyptian linens.

The George V dining room with black tie service, dinner jackets for gentleman, denim and shorts inappropriate, is led by Executive Chef, Liam Finnegan, 41. He said, “I have a staff of 50 and a large organic kitchen garden with vegan and vegetarian offerings, straight from the garden to the table, and our organic salmon is the best you’ll find in Ireland. The classic Irish soda bread recipe is from my grandmother, and we make our own vinegar, jams and sauces using seeds from the garden.” Lunch was a balance of tastes with slices of organic chicken dressed with tangy butternut squash, a garden salad, and a Cured Organic Salmon with a dab of horseradish, cucumbers, honey and soy. Finnegan explained, “Ireland was offering organic cuisine long before organic was a catchphrase.”

Ballynahinch Castle Hotel

Built on the site of a 1384 former castle and though modified, Ballynahinch retains the architectural integrity of a castle and luxurious former Irish country estate. Found in the west of Ireland on the Wild Atlantic Way in Connemara County Galway, overlooking a salmon fishery, amidst 700 acres of woodlands, rivers and greenery, Ballynahinch, with 48 bedrooms and suites, is a rainbow mantle of attractions for the epicurean. Michelin-starred, and a luxury member of Relais & Châteaux, Executive Chef Danni Barry, 40, with a staff of 14, was “Chef of The Year in 2024”, and the Owenmore was awarded “Ireland’s Fine Dining Hotel Restaurant in 2024.” She said, “My dad was a farmer, and we all had to help out. I cooked in Belfast for 20 years, traveled Europe, and love the long-lasting organic Irish cuisine. Our garden and Green House are a great asset, as is fishing, a great part of Ireland’s cuisine. Reservations a week or more in advance for this exquisite dining experience with views of the rambling Ballynahinch river, floor to ceiling draped windows, candlelit tables, chandeliers dimmed creating subtle lighting, a harpist playing relaxing chords, while servers are offering classic refined service. Chef Dani has a large walled garden to source from, while her West Coast scallops are created with smoked black pudding, slices of pungent beets, apples and tangy cauliflower. Savory and layered with taste was a halibut baked in brown butter, dressed with pickled celeriac, in a roast bone sauce, and with fresh, organic walled garden greens.

Ballyfin

Ballyfin Demesne, luxurious and celebrated, quietly lures guests back to the early 18th century with its extravagant and historic large format art collection of people you would love to meet and who once roamed through the palace-like rooms with whispered secrets. Ballyfin is simply an Irish treasure, not technically a castle, but an elaborate castle-like estate. Every interior detail in this distinguished destination has a story to tell with ornate period furniture, damask fabrics, Chinese porcelain lamps, gleaming Empire mirrors, crystal chandeliers, inlaid timber flooring, including an original mosaic floor imported from Italy. Elegant Regency clocks where time has stood still, and who have a story to tell, along with opulent gold leaf candlestick holders that once lit the way for countless guests with their dancing flames. Hidden away in the library bookcase is a concealed door accessing entrance to an 1855 glass conservatory. The neo-classic building, 1826, has an abundance of old-world charm and warm Irish hospitality that engulf you like a heartfelt embrace, while guests can be greeted at the outer entrance with horse and carriage, as Head Butler and Coachman, Lionel Chadwick reins in two white horses who know the way and prance by entrance doors of solid Santo Domingo mahogany and marble pillars imported from Italy. Emerging on the horizon is Ballyfin’s intriguing backdrop, the immense Slieve Bloom Mountains in a blaze of artistic purple heather, attracting a gathering of fickle clouds.

Ballyfin, honored with five-stars as well as Michelin-starred, is located in the center of Ireland, on a 614-acre estate, which includes Executive Chef, Richard Picard-Edwards’ eight-acre walled produce garden that intensifies dining in the lavish Van Der Hagen dining room with a blazing chandelier, tables with crystal and silver, and to set a mood, light piano music in the background. Chef Picard-Edwards, offering a high level of culinary creativity, creates a menu focusing on the best of seasonal produce with savory sauces, an extensive, award-winning tasting menu and freshly caught cod dressed in a sprinkling of pine nuts and tasty garden mushrooms.

Ballyfin’s 20 distinctive bedrooms, fit for royalty, are each named and each with a personality, as well as a private one-bedroom Garden Cottage. The Westmeath has a dome canopied 18th century French carved bed positioned permanently in the center of the room, surrounded by richly patterned walls, and draped windows exposing a brilliant patch of green and Chadwick’s carriage with two-white horses passing by. A guest from Madrid said, “For all this elegance and history, Ballyfin is far from a hotel, it’s like being a guest in a private estate with not a drop of pretentiousness, which is nicely replaced with classic Irish hospitality.”

Birr Castle

Birr Castle, a 40-minute drive from Ballyfin along one-lane country roads lined with trees and the classic, low-lying hand-made walls, is an uplifting encounter with nature and Irish history, accompanied by songs of unseen birds and drifting clouds. Birr Castle, an historic landmark with a castle on the site since 1170, once the ancestral fortified home of the O’Carroll/Carroll Clan, who ruled the area from the 14th to 17th centuries and later the noted Parsons family, is surrounded by 120 acres of parklands, as the river Camcor weaves through a landscape past six miles of walking trails, a lake, and waterfall, rare trees, award-winning formal gardens, tall 300-year-old Box Hedges, the oldest wrought-iron suspension bridge in Ireland, circa 1820, a Science Center, and the Great Telescope that took six strong men to move into place, and for 70 years was the world’s largest reflecting telescope. When visiting the private home castle of the Earl and the elegant Countess Lady Rosse, a one-hour guided interior tour can be arranged with reservations from mid-May to August. One can experience one of the top five private libraries in Ireland, pointed gothic windows, and footsteps of history to ignite the imagination. The Birr’s Courtyard Café offers a menu selection of scones, various hot foods, a tasty soup of the day, and sandwiches, ideal for a casual lunch in an uppermost nature setting.

Dromoland Castle Hotel

The teeth of autumn cast long shadows on the magnificent castle, a raw wind with little streaks of warmth, igniting the imagination of people come and gone. The ancestral home of the O’Brien family since 1014 is set on 450 acres. Most of the five-star Gothic castle with 97 guestrooms and suites, hails from the early 1800s, and complete with a chapel, golfing academy, and 18-hole golf course. The stones bear the faint imprints of guests from throughout the ages, who have admired the resplendent Dromoland setting, where love affairs have wandered and drifted within the timeless castle. Although, one woman, possibly in her 50s with dark wavy hair who lived here in the 1800s has decided to make the castle her permanent home. She has been seen by various people on the second and third floors descending the staircase to the extravagant Earl of Thomond dining room wearing a dark blue satin gown. A server in the restaurant said, “Regardless, our attractive lady must have been the gourmet of her day, a connoisseur of fine cuisine for sure.” Executive Head Chef, David McCann, has been creating at the Earl of Thomond since 1995, was awarded Chef of The Year in 2018, and Dromoland honored as Best Hotel in Ireland in 2024. McCann, widely traveled, cooked in London and Dublin’s finest restaurants, said, “For me, it all began with my mother who loved to cook and bake too. The organic produce is all local suppliers, our herbs from the walled garden, we use organic flour, and I believe Irish butter and dairy products are among the best in the world. I have a talented hand-picked staff, a strong relationship with the farmers, enjoy hosting the local school children, and I do know some of our guests which range from presidents and celebrities to neighbors. I have 22 tables in the Earl of Thomond, and realized years ago, a great thing about dining is that people socialize.”

Our dinner at the Earl of Thomond, Chef McCann recommended most of the menu, but we selected a nicely presented Shellfish Bisque created with a touch of brandy, ginger and a bittersweet tarragon with suggestions of citrus and licorice. A flaky, puff pastry, Wild Mushroom Pithivier, enclosed with creamy mashed potatoes, truffles and chives, was a winner. We shared a Traditional Caesar Salad, which was a dedication to quality with garden baby romaine, a sprinkle of croutons, Parmesan cheese, and dressed with the chef’s Dromoland sauce. McCann’s rich culinary history was forefront in the savory Burren Smokehouse Salmon Platter, enjoyed with bits of dried onions, baby capers, a splash of lemon, and the classic brown Irish soda bread. A Custard Tart settled the evening, designed with Chantilly cream, plum and blackberry compote. With only a minimum of imagination, we could picture the attractive lady in the satin gown dining under one of the sparkling chandeliers, champagne glass tipped.

Lismore Castle Gardens and Gallery

Led by John Colclough along ancient postal roads, a thin layer of fog covering a green forest, we arrive at the massive Lismore Castle’s fortified entrance, the setting pulling us back in time with visions of horses and carriages and a 17th century guard at the gate with a musket and long curved sword. The thick-walled castle, with turrets and towers, dates to 1185, was built by King John on the site of a seventh-century Lismore Abbey monastery, overlooking the Blackwater River to order to guard river crossings. It has endured wars and week-long sieges. The Gothic Revival castle in Waterford County, near

Lismore town, is the private home of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire and their family. Entry involves access to a contemporary art gallery with changing exhibits, and one of Ireland’s historic, romantic and wistful gardens. The tiered gardens were designed on seven acres, protected by 17th century defensive walls, and noted as the oldest continually cultivated gardens in Ireland.

Castle Keep For Family and Friends

Lismore can be booked for weddings and celebrations, complete with the family’s private staff including a butler, and dining with a head chef blessed with culinary skills who presents breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner. Lismore is offering 15 bedrooms without door locks and television for 27 guests, and a medieval ambience for life-long memories.

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Lift A Fork

The Sea of Cortez sparkled like a blanket of dazzling diamonds, while a soft and cooling breeze ruffled the towering palms and gently moved through the massive, beachfront Hacienda Del Mar Los Cabos, filling the air with freshness and tranquility. The setting was serene and peaceful, with the sun slowly dipping below the horizon, leaving a breathtaking blaze of pastel hues that bathed the sails of a yacht tilting to port. There is an easygoing rhythm to the resort, perhaps dictated by the cadence of the sea, the echo of waves sweeping onto deep, soft sand, and a welcoming staff, attentive and professional, and with a smile on their lips.

The 11-acre resort, at the tip of Baja Sur, 1,000 road miles from the San Diego, U.S. border, opened in 2014 with 270 guest rooms and suites and is located on the celebrated 20-mile-long Los Cabos Tourist Corrido that separates San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. On this stretch of roadway overlooking the mighty Pacific Ocean and the historic Sea of Cortez, a favorite of tattered pirates who would sail in for lifesaving fresh water, are a collection of some of the finest beachfront resorts in the world, as well as eight stunning golf courses, and the award-winning Hacienda del Mar, a proud entry in this elite collection.

The spacious resort is designed so guests are never rubbing elbows, even with its five pools, a full-service spa, a large fitness center, a kids club, an embracing, consecrated chapel ideal for weddings of all religions, a convention center, and for returning guests, a Private Club. All of this is set within a framework of sustainability at its finest. However, the core of the expansive Hacienda del Mar is romance and camaraderie, an enthusiastic abrazo under a deep blue sky, and the ever-changing Sea of Cortez. It’s that kind of place. Upon entering the resort, the stunning Plazuela offers a vibrant showcase of “authentic Mexico,” with its artistic décor, vibrant tiles, meticulous landscaping, and exquisite Mexican craftsmanship. But most striking is the cuisine, which truly captures the essence of the country.

Master Chef, Jose Lazcarro

Highly acclaimed Master Chef José Lazcarro, 39, has earned international recognition and numerous prestigious awards. He oversees seven of the resort’s dining venues and with his expert touch, the Mexican flag is flying high. He was born and raised in Puebla, a city with an outstanding dining reputation and the home of Mole, a treasured Mexico creation. Lazcarro traveled the world gathering menu ideas and has created an elevated dining experience for the Hacienda Del Cabo guests, preparing modern Mexican and International cuisine. With incredible lineage and a caring family, including four sisters, a grandfather who ignited his passion at age six for cooking, and a father who owned Puebla’s La Noria where Lazcarro furthered his skills. Lazcarro attended university in Puebla, and the Culinary Institute of America. He has honed his skills at some of the finest restaurants in Mazatlán and further refined his craft with two years in Paris, eight months in Barcelona, and at the elegant Little Nell Hotel in Aspen, Colorado. A highlight of his career was being selected by the Mexican Embassy to represent the country on a culinary promotion to South Korea and Hong Kong.

He said, “Cuisine is an art. With a staff of 110, I work 10 to 13 hours a day and you never stop learning. I’ve traveled much of the world and lived in Canada, but the challenge for me is to present authentic Mexican cuisine, which varies from region to region. The seafood, of course, is local. The shrimp comes from Mazatlán, and the vegetables and fruit are sourced from the heart of the country,” he said. Smiling, he added, “What truly supports me in my work here at the Hacienda is that I’m deeply in love with a wonderful woman. We’ve been together for eight years and married for one. We live nearby, and I’m a lucky guy.”

The Pitahayas Wine Cellar

Pitahayas Restaurant was previously on the Tourist Corridor before the resort was constructed. The resort kept the name alive with a new beginning and with Master Chef Lazcarro at the helm. The Pitahayas wine cellar, Casa de Santiago, has seating for seven at a round table with comfortable leather chairs, subtle lighting and formal service which sets the mood for a romantic evening. Chef Lazcarro arrived at the table with hot bread straight from the oven in a wooden box, warm melted house butter and large shrimp in a light batter bathed in a pungent pesto dressing. Fresh heirloom tomato salad and lightly grilled oysters trimmed with candied garlic butter, yuzu, Parmesan cheese crumble and a sprinkle of chives, were also served. Additionally, a delightful Shrimp Tempura was prepared with a spicy peanut and tamarind sauce and a touch of ginger. A surprise was the Duck confit gordita bathed in succulent Oaxacan black mole and a flavorful Goatfish in a tangy chili and ginger mix that fell off the fork, leaving a savory lingering sensation. A colorful dessert tray with coconut passion fruit, strawberry tartar, creamy chocolate, and corn cake were all a perfect marriage with the bold and structured 2023 Casa Magoni Cabernet from Valle de Guadalupe in Northern Baja.

Tomates Buffet Breakfast

On an early morning from the room’s balcony, countless scores of puffy wind-blown clouds covered the resort and sea with a patch of blue hovering on the horizon. The rhythm of the day was set by the swirling whispers of the waves, yet it posed no dilemma for the California gray whales Pitahatas

that were passing by on their way south to one of three Baja lagoons. Breakfast is a huge delight at Tomates. It adjoins the Plazuela courtyard, offering inviting patio dining, where a friendly tortilla maker can be found working diligently over a hot griddle. Authentic Mexico comes to life through the chef’s curated selection of dishes inspired by Mexico City, including Charred Tomato Salsa, Tinga de Pollo, Huitlacoche, Raja Poblanos with corn, Salsa Habanero, and Chicharrón Prensa—pork marinated in a rich, peppery red sauce. The menu also features tamales from the ancient Aztecs, Baja Nopales Asados—a tangy roasted cactus—and an abundant selection of fresh vegetables and fruit. Meanwhile, two cooks in an open kitchen prepare Lazcarro-style omelets upon request.

A stroll along the inviting beach to smooth, weathered boulders and tide pools carved by the relentless sea, reveals the vastness of Baja Sur. The cadence of the waves tickles our toes as the sea mirrors the sky and seagulls glide gracefully in the breeze. Suddenly, as from nowhere, a sun-tinged hotel security staff appeared, advising us to step back a few feet from the waterline, explaining that large waves can unexpectedly surge in and sweep you out to sea. It’s long been noted that the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Ocean in Los Cabos are unsafe for swimmers due to rip currents, but public beaches that are safe for a dip are roped off. It is also recommended that divers swim with a local guide, rendering the attractive Hacienda swimming pool extremely alluring.

Tahona Tacos

With the sea at our backs and the distant boulders on the horizon, we enjoyed lunch at the Tahona patio, surrounded by tall, fluttering palm trees and an open kitchen, where savory aromas drifted skyward. At the heart of the patio sits a large Tahona, an ancient and ingeniously crafted heavy stone wheel used for grinding cactus to make tequila. The name “Tahona” comes from the Nahuatl language of the Indigenous Aztecs. The small dining area with a soft breeze rustling the napkins, was another favorite with guests and veteran Baja aficionados. Many commented that Tahona has the most flavorful tacos in Los Cabos, if not in all Baja, and one sitting is never enough. First served is a plate of fresh Guacamole sprinkled with bits of tomato. The busy grill on the patio, produces small slices of chicken or beef on open-face tacos, and hand-made tortillas dressed with radishes, greens, and shredded carrots and purple cabbage. A selection of dipping sauces includes Salsa Tatemada, a delicate and richly flavorful charred red sauce, along with enough limes to supply all of Los Cabos—Mexico proudly known as the world’s Lime Capital.

De Cortez

Hacienda del Mar, designed to capture the essence of Mexico in its expansive setting and offering world-renowned cuisine, has somehow preserved an inherent, cherished intimacy that makes the property feel personal and welcoming. The De Cortez Grillhouse is a favorite among honeymooners and those seeking a romantic evening. With the lights low, the menu offers enticing options such as Endive & Blue Cheese with charred walnuts and creamy honey-Gorgonzola, Wood-Fired Sourdough Caprese Flatbread, an Organic Salad with a sweet and sour mustard vinaigrette, and Italian Pasta with Fresh and Smoked Salmon. For a truly memorable dish, Chef Lazcarro recommends his Iron Cast Seafood, a decadent mix of scallops, shrimp, fish, mussels, potato gnocchi, and fennel. To complement the meal, a 2023 Casa Magoni Cabernet, bold and structured, from Valle de Guadalupe in Baja Norte, which adds the perfect touch, while background music and exceptional service make it a memory keeper.

When You Go

The dining options at Hacienda del Mar Los Cabos are vast, making it a paradise for any epicurean who appreciates the rich flavors of Mexico. Additional choices include a Tapas & Sushi Bar, La Terraza Del Santo, where guests savor chocolate clams, yellowfin tuna, and a menu full of creative delights; The Grill, offers Alaska salmon, whole lobster, organic chicken, a Butcher’s Board, and homemade ice cream; and Trattoria, a guest favorite that delivers a quick yet authentic culinary journey to Italy. The resort is a one-stop destination, yet nearby lies the vibrant city of San José del Cabo, with boutiques that are sure to draw you in. The historic San José del Cabo Cathedral, dating back to 1730, stands as the southernmost of the Jesuit missions on the Baja Peninsula. Its two bell towers, imported from Spain, ring out a warm welcome to guests every Sunday.

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The Atlantic Ocean, rhythmic, fickle, and unpredictable, bares its teeth with white, foamy waves that embrace the soft, sandy shoreline. Agile Sandpipers, feathers dry, dart along the wet sand, deftly dancing to evade the surf as they search for snails and crustaceans, while small land crabs scan the surface for a quick meal, and scurry about as if cleverly electrified by the ceaseless formations. The North Carolina Outer Banks, OBX, are a breathtaking treasure: a 200-mile ribbon of barrier islands and spits stretching off the coasts of North Carolina and Southeastern Virginia. The islands line much of North Carolina’s shoreline, revealing a vast, untouched beachfront, including the majestic Cape Hatteras National Seashore. Surrounded by history, culture, vibrant marine life, and the ceaseless rhythm of the Atlantic, a coastal region offering a natural harmony beneath ever-changing skies and drifting clouds. In its southern reaches lie the enchanting towns of Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills, and Nags Head, where visitors can enjoy exquisite dining, charming boutiques, lively nightlife, and a rich culinary bounty from the sea.

Barefoot beach weddings

In the northeastern Outer Banks, anchored by the historic Currituck Beach Lighthouse (circa 1875), the landscape is dotted with three-story, wood-framed homes and venues ideal for large, romantic, barefoot beach weddings, and recognized as one of the state’s most popular wedding venues. The homes here share a similar style and construction, often featuring balconies and the Outer Banks hallmark, the seemingly identical sandy wooden steps leading down to the beach. At dusk, as the sun sets in a wash of pastel hues shaped by the offshore breeze into a subdued sky, a leisurely stroll along the shoreline might end with mistaking someone else’s beach access for your own-and possibly ending up in their kitchen. The legendary Outer Banks stand alone in North America as one of a kind and are one of the culturally distinctive regions on the East Coast. It is easy to feel the pride of ownership and a protective essence of a land with stories to share. The Outer Banks Conservation Group, with an incredible ecology-minded decorum, have instilled a pride of ownership. The roadways are virtually free of litter and the broad expanse of beaches that extend for miles, are among the most pristine in North America. Adding to the splendors are 12 national and state wildlife refuges scattered throughout the Outer Banks, and eight distinctive golf courses with ocean views.

Graveyard of the Atlantic

A nightmare for sea captains of old, the Outer Banks and surrounding seas, have recorded hundreds of shipwrecks. Well before the advent of lighthouses, the “Bankers,” as they are called, would light bon fires to warn approaching ships, while a few other Bankers with devious thoughts would leer the ships to the shallows with disastrous results. Today, there are five lighthouses on the Outer Banks sending out their safety signals. All are historic with stories to fill a book and span over 115 miles from Corolla to Ocracoke Island. Built in 1875 and now owned by the Outer Banks Conservationists, the Currituck Beach Lighthouse was the last major brick lighthouse to be illuminated on the Outer Banks. Nicely restored, it sends out a guiding beam visible up to 18 nautical miles. For a $13 fee, visitors can climb 220 steps past nine landings to reach the top at 162 feet, where they’re rewarded with sweeping views of Currituck Sound and the expansive coastal landscape.

Age of Exploration Spanish Wild Mustangs – An Outer Banks Treasure

In the mid-1500s eight Spanish ships met their fate among the hidden shoals and shallow waters of the Outer Banks and the mustangs onboard cleverly swam ashore. Other mustangs were likely left behind during early explorations. Today these direct descendants of the 16th century Spanish stock are protected by the National Park Service and called “Banker Ponies”. Appropriately, they became the state horse of North Carolina after living on the Outer Banks for nearly 500 years. The mustangs, also called” Wild Horses,” have one less vertebrate in their spines, shorter backs, with coats of chestnut, bay, and black. They are feisty, fast, and hardy, can dig for fresh water, and have been known to swim from island to island searching for fresh grazing areas. The Spanish Mustangs of Northern Corolla Outer Banks are as pure as the 16th century species. Approximately 115 roam over the 7,500 protected acres on the Currituck Banks.

Shackelford Banks, the southernmost of the barrier island chain and part of the Cape Lookout National Seashore has 119 protected wild Mustangs. located three miles offshore, and can be reached via a 25-minute ferry boat ride. The well-preserved, uninhabited island is glowing with firsthand care. Vehicles are not allowed and is noted as one of the finest shelling locations in the country. Reportedly, 400 Mustangs live in the Outer Banks, however, in 1926, an article in National Geographic stated there were an estimated 5,000 to 6,000 Mustangs roaming freely across the Outer Banks.

Wright Brothers flying high

While the Mustangs were roaming the beaches of the Outer Banks and living the good life, the Wilbur and Orville, Wright Brothers, were looking upward, and in north Dare County (named after unwholesome rum), the brothers selected the remote 428-acre Kill Devil Hills area for its good winds and privacy for their first flight. Kitty Hawk, about four miles north, was the nearest settlement at the time, and in 1903, Orville completed the first powered flight of a heavier-than-air flight in the Wright Flyer, sailing aloft for 12 seconds, traveling 120 feet, and reaching a speed of 6.8 miles per hour. The Wright Brothers National Memorial is in Kill Devil Hills, and a must on an “Outer Banks priority list.”

The Outer Banks is a sensory delight, offering a rich history and a tribute to the preservation and care of this unique region, and also the perfect place to exchange vows, and begin a new life.

Corolla Wild Horses Fund

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Overpacking for a travel excursion, is a huge negative, and I’ve witnessed trips ruined regarding luggage that weighed more than gym weights. Here in Southern California with popular weekend cruises to Ensenada, Mexico, I’ve seen cruisers pack on enough luggage for a week’s trip to Buenos Aires. However, I neglected to follow packing light guidelines when on assignment for 10 days, covering editorially, “France by Train.” Stopping in Dijon, I was overwhelmed with the gastronomic depth of the city, and the Dijonnais, who are extremely proud of their culinary delights. I purchased a selection of Dijon mustards; Grey Poupon Dijon, Maille Dijon, Cassis de Dijon, two regional wines, olive oil, and a large loaf of bread.

Back on the train stopping at various cities, I was having immense trouble lifting the bag of Dijon on and off the train, the conductors giving me strange looks of, “Another dumb American traveler.” Finally, exhausted, and feeling like my arms were dangling from their sockets. I opened the bag, and to the shock and delightful surprise of the passengers, I offered them a selection of Dijon mustards, fine red wines, the bread and olive oil, and other Dijon culinary specialties, emptying the Dijon bag.

A smiling traveler from Switzerland said, “We just had a marvelous Dijon fiesta, and it must be a first on this train!” It was a huge release, and a lesson to pack light, and follow my own travel priorities. Arriving home, I visited my local market and purchased a jar of Dijon mustard, but it wasn’t the same.

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