{"id":2108,"date":"2025-07-01T19:14:05","date_gmt":"2025-07-01T19:14:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/?p=2108"},"modified":"2025-07-02T14:58:00","modified_gmt":"2025-07-02T14:58:00","slug":"beans-paella-only-in-valencia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/beans-paella-only-in-valencia\/","title":{"rendered":"Paella &#8211; Valencia&#8217;s Signature Dish"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"576\" height=\"365\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas09.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2115\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas09.jpg 576w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas09-300x190.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"360\" height=\"481\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/bomba-rice.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2109\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/bomba-rice.jpg 360w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/bomba-rice-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 360px) 100vw, 360px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"has-drop-cap\">Chances are, what you\u2019ve been calling paella all these years was simply a rice dish \u2013 good perhaps \u2013 but not paella. If it had chorizo \u2013 not paella. If it mixed seafood with meat \u2013 not paella.\u00a0 A true paella is made with tomatoes, (garlic), saffron, stock, beans, rabbit (or chicken) and snails, all nestled in an <em>al dente bomba<\/em> rice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>These ingredients are all found practically at every Valencian\u2019s doorstep. It took a visit to the birthplace of paella \u2013 Valencia \u2013 to learn the nuances of cooking Spain\u2019s most famous dish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>From the Beginning . . .<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I started traveling to Spain after a column I wrote for my local newspaper referenced growing saffron crocus in the Catskill Mountains so I could make paella. (Saffron is one of the most expensive spices, so I definitely wanted to grow my own.) A Spanish friend forwarded my piece to some people of influence who invited me to attend a forum on the \u201cYear of Gastronomy\u201d in Spain. They liked how I reported on that and the curiosity and gravitas I brought to the journey. They have invited me back many times in the decades since.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"936\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas01-936x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2110\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas01-936x1024.jpg 936w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas01-274x300.jpg 274w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas01-768x841.jpg 768w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas01-850x930.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas01.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 936px) 100vw, 936px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Burning the children\u2019s statue during Fallas.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>But, while I\u2019ve been nearly all over Spain, I was never to Valencia! I\u2019ve wanted to see the <a href=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/valencia-the-city-of-arts-and-sciences\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">City of Arts and Science<\/a> since they started building it twenty-five years or so ago. I also wanted to find out what Spain\u2019s biggest festival \u2013 Fallas, an explosion of fireworks and burning effigies throughout the city \u2013 was all about. And of course I wanted to taste paella on its home turf. Finally, I could.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"533\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Calatrava04-1024x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2111\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Calatrava04-1024x533.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Calatrava04-300x156.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Calatrava04-768x400.jpg 768w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Calatrava04-850x442.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Calatrava04.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">City of Arts and Science.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p><strong>Valencia Club Cocina<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I thought I knew how to make paella already, but I visited <a href=\"https:\/\/www.valenciaclubcocina.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Valencia Club Cocina<\/a> so chef Zaher could teach me the Valencian way. It is a lively, almost raucous cooking school.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"783\" height=\"440\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/SVfkj4_9C10\" title=\"PAELLA - Only in Valencia!\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen=\"\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cooking here is a great trust and team building event where everyone has a hand in the making of traditional Valencian paella. After peeling, chopping, de-stringing, crushing, and mashing the ingredients \u2013 while drinking copious amounts of great Spanish wine \u2013 my new friends and I enjoyed a delicious meal together. The paella was great! I was disappointed that the only things missing were rabbits and snails.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>La Barraca de Toni Montoliu<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-drop-cap\">Then I visited chef Toni Montoliu at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.barracatonimontoliu.com\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">La Barraca de Toni Montoliu<\/a> in Meliana, just outside of Valencia city, who is famous for his paella and for just being a larger-than-life cooking\/farming personality. He is truly an ambassador for Spain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The setting was amazing! Just a block off a main city street, in the back yards of businesses and apartment buildings, abundant fields of produce stretched across Valencia\u2019s plains. Big plots of lettuce, artichokes, tomatoes, onions, beans, eggplants, corn, garlic and herbs of all kinds wrapped around Toni\u2019s farmstand cum restaurant. Right there in front of a traffic light. Orchards stretched into the distance behind them. Not a man of modest proclamations, Toni gestured with his arms wide across this expanse and exclaimed: \u201cThis <em>Huerta<\/em> of Valencia is the great garden of Europe.\u201d Meanwhile, chickens and kittens scurried out from underfoot as he hustled (yes \u2013 we almost ran) through the fields gathering the freshest of perfect produce for our meal. It was almost more than I could carry.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"720\" height=\"480\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Paul-ShoulmewithToni.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2112\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Paul-ShoulmewithToni.jpg 720w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Paul-ShoulmewithToni-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photo Courtesy of Paul Shoul.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Then he ushered me through a maze of half-filled picnic tables into what looked like an old open-sided wagon shed converted into a paella kitchen. Friendly staff unloaded my armful of produce to wash and prep it while I looked around in amazement. There were five huge paella pans on one long grill along the back wall with separate wood fires beneath each.&nbsp; And each was at a different stage of paella cooking. Here was the chicken (first disappointment \u2013 no rabbit) sizzling in olive oil, next were the aromatics being sauteed with them.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"576\" height=\"427\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas10.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2114\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas10.jpg 576w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/fallas10-300x222.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">My dish of Paella.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>At the third Toni checked the meat mixture then let me stir the rice equally throughout the pan. The pan next to that was ready for me to stir in the stock and after a bit add the beans. Finally, the last one was bubbling away nicely. He added some straw to the flames to raise the heat creating the prized bottom crust of rice called <em>socarrat<\/em> that elevated <em>arroz con cosas<\/em>, or rice with things, into the lofty realm of Valencia Paella. It was telling that when I asked where the snails were he said, \u201cno snails today\u201d, I suppose in deference to the erroneous Spanish belief that Americans don\u2019t eat snails. (My second disappointment.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This cook-shed was just off the back door of his restaurant. So, while the picnickers enjoyed paella in the dappled shade of the olive trees in the courtyard, he ushered me into his restaurant to enjoy the full range of his cooking skills. And, while I enjoyed everything I ate \u2013 yes, the paella was spectacular \u2013 the taste that lingered longest on my palate was the simplest of condiments \u2013 a garlic and olive oil aioli \u2013 served essentially with potatoes but which I added to almost everything. What a great meal!<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"576\" height=\"458\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/PaulShoul-potatoes.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2113\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/PaulShoul-potatoes.jpg 576w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/PaulShoul-potatoes-300x239.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Potatoes with garlic aioli &#8211; Photo Courtesy of Paul Shoul.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Eating at La Barraca de Toni Montoliu should be the \u201cde rigor\u201d experience when visiting Valencia. And go soon. When I asked Toni how old he was he said 72, but I later learned he was at least a decade older, yet still with the wits and vigor of a man much younger. Go. Eat. Learn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.visitvalencia.com\/en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Visit Valencia<\/a>  #visitvalencia<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/spain.info\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Spain Tourism<\/a>&nbsp; #visitspain<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/all.accor.com\/hotel\/COF6\/index.en.shtm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Novotel Hotel Valencia<\/a> &#8212;  I liked this hotel both for its central location (next to a shopping mall and a subway station) and for its efficient, modern design. The people were really nice, too.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I started traveling to Spain after a column I wrote for my local newspaper referenced growing saffron crocus in the Catskill Mountains so I could make paella. (Saffron is one of the most expensive spices, so I definitely wanted to grow my own.) A Spanish friend forwarded my piece to some people of influence who invited me to attend a forum on the \u201cYear of Gastronomy\u201d in Spain. They liked how I reported on that and the curiosity and gravitas I brought to the journey. They have invited me back many times in the decades since.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":14,"featured_media":2114,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[863,865,38,19,866,862,861,864,329,688],"class_list":["post-2108","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-travel","tag-catskill-mountains","tag-fallas","tag-food","tag-home_page","tag-meliana","tag-paella","tag-rice-dish","tag-saffron","tag-spain","tag-valencia"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Paella - Valencia&#039;s Signature Dish - Traveling Boy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/adventure\/beans-paella-only-in-valencia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Paella - Valencia&#039;s Signature Dish - Traveling Boy\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I started traveling to Spain after a column I wrote for my local newspaper referenced growing saffron crocus in the Catskill Mountains so I could make paella. 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