Prohibition Museum, Savannah, Georgia:
When alcohol went from savior to sinful – and back again

The entrance way immediately transforms you to the era just preceding Prohibition from 1920-1933. A larger-than-life 1918 street scene of a truck transporting alcohol being prevented from moving by an angry crowd of protesters sporting signs reading “Liquor is a curse,” “Alcohol is poison” and “Bread not beer.” The protesters somehow felt uncomfortably reminiscent of today…

Welcome to Savannah, Georgia’s Prohibition Museum, the only museum of its kind in the country, where you don’t just learn about prohibition, you actually re-live it. The visit is only one of the many enticing excursions aboard American Cruise Lines Intra-Coastal Waterway Cruise from Amelia Island, FL to Charleston, SC – also the only cruise of its kind in the country.

Back to the immersive 1920’s, famed evangelist Billy Sunday is railing against “King Alcohol,” loudly proclaiming Savannah as the wickedest city in the world. Life-size re-enactments of the many facets of prohibition from the massive attempts to rid the sinners of demon drink to the creative efforts of moonshiners to replenish the loss greet you around every corner. Political cartoons lining the walls elucidate the conflict: what caused prohibition, how people responded to it, got around it and eventually over-rode it. Vintage newsreels – for example, of a coast guard vessel chasing a rum runner boat – further bring the era to life.

As I made my way through, I was mesmerized by how clever the whole presentation was. “Moderation is the key, not prohibition,” says August Busch, of the famed Anheiser-Busch Company. Literally says! He’s just a picture on the wall before he starts talking. And then gets into a fiery debate with a lady of the Temperance League several picture frames down. They really go at it. How can you not delight in such an imaginative historical spectacle!

The 18th Amendment prevailed enabling barrel bashing and bottle breaking while the economy itself tanked. People out of jobs, taxes lost, manufacturing hobbled – pretty sobering news, I’d say… But there were those who thrived. Al Capone, for instance. Also Lucky Luciano, Bugsy Moran and their compatriots.

Observed Capone: “When I sell liquor, it’s called bootlegging; when my patrons serve it on Lake Shore Drive, it’s called hospitality.”

A separate observation came from famous raconteur Will Rogers: “During prohibition it was said tailors would ask customers what size pockets they wanted: pints or quarts. “And others found ways around the restrictions. Pharmacists issued prescriptions for liquor for “medicinal purposes.” Take three ounces every hour for stimulant until stimulated. Doctor’s Orders.

And, of course, moonshiners across the country reaped in the prophits from the grain alcohol produced secretly at night. Ergo, the famous moniker. Another of the life-size exhibits had one such backwoods culprit talking directly to us about his business. Eerie – and effective!

The tour ends at a nondescript wooden door – somewhat imposing – but what kind of Prohibition Museum would it be without a speakeasy. Immediately, you know you need a password. A knock brings a small open slit in the door with a pair of menacing, shifty eyes behind it and a growl that says, “Who sent you?” The temptation, of course, is to say, “Al did,” until you notice scratchy chalk marks close by with Al crossed out and an admonition to say Gus. So you say Gus, and the voice behind the eyes mumbles something and then says okay. And in you go. The menu includes a long list of libations famous at the time and the modern versions they most represent. I had a Mary Pickford and my husband, the much-revered prohibition Boilermaker. Apparently fancy cocktails were the norm as bartenders had to get creative in order to mask the taste of poor-quality liquor. But at least these drinks were legal!

Throughout the bar, not surprisingly, are newspaper headlines announcing the end of prohibition: Happy Days are Beer Again and Sober City Hails Liquors Return. And apparently, the ramifications of that era exist today – at least according to the museum. There’s a whole section celebrating the fact that moonshine runners were the origin of Nascar. Not entirely sure how I feel about that particular legacy….

And like every other museum tour in the world, there is a gift shop with the de rigueur t-shirts that say: “Alcohol will not solve your problems (but neither will milk)” and “Technically speaking, beer is a solution.” Some teetotalers might regret the failure of the Prohibition Era but for one, a Fireball aficionado, certainly do not. For more information, contact americancruiselines.com; americanprohibitionmuseum.com.

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I looked tentatively at the load of shrimp, blue crabs, gar, sea trout and other nameless denizens of the deep as they were dropped into the boat. I volunteered to hold one even more tentatively — much more tentatively. But then I was making eye contact with a very cute sting ray and I’m pretty sure we had a moment.

My trip upon the Lady Jane Shrimp Boat in Jekyll Island, Georgia, in which naturalist Jeffrey explains the whole process of commercial net trolling and the many water creatures they catch along the way -several of which became fast friends — is but one of the many adventures to be had on the American Cruise Line Historic South and Golden Isles Intra-Coastal Waterway Cruise from Amelia Island, Florida to Charleston, South Carolina.

We learned a lot about the mouths, gills and tails of individual fish which I actually found more interesting than I would have expected. There are some very weird fish tales out there! But take time to look up at the flocks of birds following the boat. They knew what we had on board.

Overheard from a colleague on the way back to the ship: “If they wouldn’t serve us all that shrimp at meals, we wouldn’t have to go out and catch more….”

So we might as well first discuss mealtimes aboard the American Eagle. Maybe mealtime is more applicable because you can literally eat 24/7. There’s an Early Riser breakfast before the dining room breakfast; there’s a pretty much all day cafe in the Sky Lounge bracketing the more formal lunches and dinners; Cookie time at 10 and 3 provides obviously very necessary sustenance in between meals; one would think the cocktail hour and hors d’ouevres prior to dinner might interfere with the more than generous dinner options but of course that doesn’t happen — and an hour later, no one skimps on the open bar, ice cream treats and popcorn that accompany the evening entertainment. Did I mention that snacks and beverages are available 24/7 in the Sky Lounge?

Rest assured there’s a Fitness Room to counter all those calories but seriously, no one goes there. The saving grace? All meals come in half-portions, which themselves are more than sufficient in this close to 5-star restaurant.

The staff — who are not allowed to accept gratuities — are still remarkably agreeable. How often do you request a drink at an establishment that they don’t carry — and by the next night, it’s there? So it was with my Fireball. Need I remind you that we were on a ship at the time? Just as an aside, this ship — accommodating only about 100 passengers — is part of the only line in the world offering small US ships that operate like river cruises along US coasts.

If you can find time in between all the food, multiple daily excursions are offered to St. Simon and Jekyll Islands, Savannah, Hilton Head, Beaufort and Charleston.

On the trolley tour of Savannah, a city I’ve never been to before. I wasn’t expecting much, just another nice southern town. I was admittedly skeptical when the trolley driver started the tour by claiming that Savannah is the most fascinating town in America — but by the time the tour ended 90 minutes later, I was in total agreement.

The constant patter from Miss Pearl brought this historic wonderland to life. The picturesque streets just begging to be strolled upon with singular homes and stores; houses dating back to the 1700 and 1800’s with architectural flourishes of graceful, lace-like iron-work adorning balconies, columns and brackets. Wraparound porches adorned with decorative balustrades and whimsically designed gingerbreading give each structure its personal charm and distinction.

So much history visible right in front of you, peppered everywhere with almost two dozen parks and squares, ennobled by a famous statue. Even chain stores such as Starbucks, Five Guys and CVS blend into the historic ambiance. Surrounding the immersive history are huge oak trees, their gnarled branches dripping with Spanish Moss, forming canopies over the streets. I laughed when I passed a sign declaring “Savannah’s Historic District.” Kind of felt redundant at best.

The next mode of transportation was a golf cart traversing Pat Conroy country. You probably ought to know the author of The Prince of Tides, The Great Santini, The Water is Wide and others to appreciate even the idea of such an excursion. I qualified. But even if you’re not familiar with his books, you may be with the many movies made of them, all of which take place in the city where he lived. Beaufort, SC is another historic small town, with houses from the 1700’s, that delights even without the Pat Conroy connection.

Nor are they the only movies for which the town is famous – and whose settings are great fun to visit. Perhaps you’ve heard of Forrest Gump? Maybe even The Big Chill? Forces of Nature with Ben Affleck and Sandra Bullock? Glory with Denzel Washington? You pass scenes from the movies, houses the stars rented during filming, and the chocolate shop whose candies filled the famous box of chocolates Forrest Gump ate in the infamous bench scene.

A visit to the Prohibition Museum doesn’t teach you about that era – you instead inhabit it. From one life-size, immersive exhibit to another, you viscerally experience the hows and whys of alcohol’s early 20th century journey from poison to party staple.

And should you wish to stay on board — few people do, no matter their disabilities — ship activities abound. There’s Are you Smarter than a Fifth Grader; movie trivia; an Outrageous Laws game – you probably didn’t know that in Alabama, it is illegal to drive while wearing a blindfold — and the ever-popular Boozy Bingo. As silly and/or intimidating as they may sound, they are always fun. And the same can be said of the whole cruise!

For more information, visit americancruiseline.com.

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