First, a little history. Cape May, New Jersey, the nation’s oldest seashore resort, has been catering to vacationers since pre-Revolutionary days, although there were probably a lot fewer T-shirt shops at the time. There’s evidence that even earlier tourists in the form of local Kechemeche Indians came there in summer “to hunt and fish.” Later, the shady tree-lined streets and colorful homes of Cape May became the playground of presidents. Ulysses S. Grant, Franklin Pierce, James Buchanan, Chester Arthur and Benjamin Harrison all sought refuge there from the humidity of D.C. summers. Those are not bad references!

Although this delightful town grew beyond its colonial trappings, it instead became stuck in the late-19th century Victorian Era, when it was rebuilt after being demolished by fire for the third time. Thankfully it has remained there. With over 600 structures, most of which have been refurbished, Cape May has been designated a National Landmark City. The whole city. The only city in the U.S. to be wholly designated as a national historic district. Hard to compete with that.

Street after street — house after house — enchants, charms and captivates visitors intrigued by the intricate detail that distinguishes one from the other. Despite the similarity in architectural style, there is infinite variety in their beautiful presentations.

Most of the homes, ablaze in multiple shades of browns, greens and mauves, sport some strange appendage on the roof alternately identified as a turret, cupola, gazebo, or belvedere. This is where the looking-up advice comes in handy: so many of the interesting adornments — the extra little touches — are near the roof. They also are everywhere else.

Wraparound porches adorned with decorative balustrades and whimsically designed gingerbreading give each structure its personal charm and distinction. Bay windows are surrounded by individualized brackets and barge boards that vary in size, detail and decor.

The diversity of the slits, slices, slats and slots, which contributes to the intricacy of design defining each structure, is bound to fascinate even those who have never before given a single thought to architectural motif. As one guide summed up the Victorian philosophy: “If a little is good, more is better, and too much is still not enough.”

The Washington Street Mall, a pedestrian walkway in the center of town, is reminiscent of what a beach town boardwalk might have been like in the 1890s. The many outdoor benches, cafes and quaint shops decked out in their Victorian finery reflect an earlier easier era. Once again, just the presence of individualized shops is such a welcome antidote to the sameness of suburban malls – at least those that are still left…..

Though the ubiquitous Ben and Jerry’s ice cream parlor somehow found a home here, even its exterior hints at a turn-of-the-century facade. A sign on the Great White Shark T-shirt Store proclaiming it “A Cape May Tradition since 1988” ironically lends authenticity to the otherwise historic ambiance.

To further personalize the transformation in time, make time to take a walk on Hughes Street after dark. Walking down the quaint, quiet street, its only illumination provided by gas lamps — and occasionally, the moon — picture yourself returning to your turn-of-the-century summer home. To a time when life was simpler — the pace was slower — the streets safer — and all was well with the world — even if just for the moment.

Welded to history, Cape May recently found some new old history to celebrate. The Harriet Tubman Museum opened in 2021 in a neighborhood that was not only the center of the African-American community but played an outsize role in the abolitionist movement in the mid-19th century – spearheaded by Harriet Tubman herself. After attaining freedom herself, Harriet worked as a Cape May hotel maid to earn the funds to finance her journeys further south to help free more slaves.

The museum site itself, built around 1799, was the center of an active anti-slavery movement at the time. The Underground Railroad ran through this Cape May neighborhood with Harriet Tubman and her allies as the conductors. I couldn’t help but wonder why it took them so long to honor this remarkable heritage!

And in addition to this new history, there’s other older history. Sightseers have several options: tour the Emlen Physick Estate, an 18-room Victorian house and museum; climb the 199 steps to the top of the Cape May Lighthouse (circa 1859) for sweeping views of Cape Island and the Delaware Bay. Check out the vestiges of a sunken 250-foot-long concrete war ship of WW1 vintage. In 1926, attempts to turn it into a Lewes-Cape May ferry failed, 36 years before it actually became a reality. A necessary reality. That’s how you get to Cape May from Lewes, Delaware.

Once back in the real world, there’s more to do in Cape May than just gawk at lovely old homes. Fairs, festivals, special interest tours and other activities attract and delight visitors throughout the year.

For bird-watching addicts, nearly 400 species of birds during peak migration periods are just waiting to be added to “sightings” lists. With Cape May listed as one of the top ten birding “hot spots” in North America, there’s ample diversity in terms of habitats and feathered creatures.

But Cape May singularity doesn’t stop there. Many people have heard of the “Sanibel Stoop,” the term attributed to seashell seekers along Florida’s coastal Island. But do you know of the “Diamond Droop”? That’s what you get when hunting for Cape May Diamonds along the Delaware Bay at Sunset Beach. Despite its local popularity, the sport is little known outside the area. And it’s one the whole family can play.

Here’s the scoop on the droop! Cape May diamonds are semi-precious quartz stones that resemble cubic zirconia diamonds. They are found in abundance along the water’s edge and are fairly easy to recognize. Dull and cloudy when dry, they become bright and translucent when wet. Jewelry made from the stone has been featured on the QVC Television Shopping Network, but you don’t have to tune in to get some. Take your diamond discoveries to the Sunset Beach Gift Shop and they’ll tell you how you can have a brooch or pair of earrings made to order.

And oh yes, lest you forget why many come — there’s always the beach! Several miles of it — with rolling waves and white sand – very white sand. And everything else you’d find in nearby, better-known beach towns — except perhaps the crowds. Hey, life is full of trade-offs. And as an added plus, there’s Tommy’s Hot dog stand – another revered Cape May tradition.

For more information, log onto capemaymac.org or call 609-884-5404.

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I’m thinking about plastic surgery.

Let’s just say that after drinking the water at the celebrated Ponce de Leon Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, I didn’t achieve the “as-advertised” (OK, truth be told, the “as-hoped-for”) miraculous transformation to blushing, youthful skin. But, let me quickly add, that this Fountain of Youth is, without a doubt, the only thing that disappoints in picturesque, moss-draped St. Augustine. (And on the plus side, Ponce de Leon’s park offers other activities—and also is home to a harem of sartorial peacocks, who entertain, as they strut and prance freely.)

Part of Florida’s Historic Coast, this city of 15,000 is a treasure, indeed. And, assuredly, if you are looking for beaches, well, you’ll find 42 miles of pristine sandy oceanfront (including two destination surfing beaches) and the usual sun and fun activities to bask in. But, let me quickly note, if you are considering going to St. Augustine for a long weekend, just for that tropical get-away, let me encourage you to think again: You will want at least five days or even a week here; there is simply too much culture and history to pack into a three-day weekend.

Founded in 1565 by Pedro Menendez de Aviles from Spain, it is the oldest, continually-inhabited, European-founded city in the country (simply referred to as America’s oldest city), and, as such, its 450-year existence offers an embarrassment of rich—and oft surprising—history, art, and culture, all of which will captivate.

It was, not surprisingly, the vacation destination for the wealthy Yanks of the Gilded Age, and as a result, there is a plethora of 19th-century art and architecture, inducing the largest collection of Tiffany-stained glass (79 windows) in the world that has remained in its original location.

This is thanks to industrialist Henry Flagler, who built two stunning hotels here, the Hotel Ponce de León (1888, housing said Tiffany glass), now a residence hall and the central pulse of Flagler College, and the Hotel Alcazar, an 1888 Gilded Age resort hotel, now home to the must-see Lightner Museum, steward to 15,000 decorative objects. (And where you can dine in the former hotel’s now-empty swimming pool, which at the time of its construction, was the largest, grandest indoor swimming “hole” in the country.)

And a propos dining—exploration of the dining scene is yet another reason to linger in St. Augustine. Rated number one in Southern Living magazine’s discerning rundown of the South’s Best Food Towns in 2019, it offers a smorgasbord of tantalizing cuisine—from the fine (Michael’s and Preserved, for example) to the fun and flavorful (Casa Reina), to the funky (Crave and The Hyppo Gourmet Ice Pops). The latter is a veritable mecca, serving up more than 250 flavors of ice pops—think of crazy flavors like Avocado Mint—for the passionate pop aficionado, and, psst—the company ships all over the US.

For history buffs, there are many “firsts” and “oldests” here and you’d be wise to save at least two days for touring some of them: Combine history and shopping on America’s oldest street, Aviles Street, with its ancient brick walkways (archaeologists actually discovered pottery shards from the early 1600s when they dug down a few layers), charming boutiques, and artists’ galleries; for the sheer graceful serenity of its Spanish Moss cathedral-like canopy, have a look-see at Magnolia Avenue; St. George Street in the Historic District offers sights that include the old city gates, the Oldest Wooden School House, the Peña-Peck House (with its handsomely preserved and restored rooms), built in 1750 as the home of the Royal Treasurer, Juan Estevan de Peña.

Just as an aside, in case the kids are eager for a diversion from history—but not for the faint of heart–there is the Medieval Torture Museum. A side note—the first Ripley’s Believe it Or Not is located in St. Augustine, but you’ll find far more interesting and educational attractions to occupy your time.

Among the “more worthy” sights is a plethora of amazing—both architecturally and historically—churches, notable homes, and historic landmarks. Among them, St. Photios Greek Orthodox National Shrine, a veritable gem, replete with stunning mosaics, a domed chapel, exquisite painting. Perhaps it is a bit of little-known history that St. Augustine reflects not merely Spanish and British settlement and rule, but also embodies a significant heritage and influence from Greeks and Menorcans, who came here hundreds of years ago—generally as laborers or indentured servants.

Some of the historic homes and institutions you’ll want to drink in include the Mission Nombre de Dios and the Shrine of Our Lady of La Leche first mission and site of the first Mass; the Father Miguel O’Reilly House Museum (1691), home to the Catholic Diocese archives and the oldest collection of Colonial-period documents; Gonzalez Alvarez House, the oldest surviving Spanish colonial dwelling in St. Augustine, and a National Historic Landmark; the outrageously Moorish/Spanish Revival-style Villa Zorayda, the winter residence of Boston hardware merchant Franklin Webster Smith; the Ximemez-Fatio House (1798, and sporting the ever-present, local coquina stone), is listed in the National Register of Historic Places and the Historic American Buildings Survey. It is worth noting that many buildings in the Historic District have a chunk of their facades removed, exposing the original coquina stone below.

As you might guess, military history figures significantly in St. Augustine’s past: Extraordinary forts include the Castillo de San Marcos, the oldest masonry fort in the continental United State; Fort Matanzas, built in 1742 by the Spanish, and, also, a National Historic Monument; Fort Mose Historic State Park is the site of the first legally sanctioned, free African settlement, established in 1738.

It is worth noting that there is—most likely an astonishing fact to learn—a great deal of Black and civil rights history entrenched in the area. While Selma and Montgomery are often thought of as seminal locations where civil rights battles took please, there is surprisingly a great deal of civil rights history right here—in both the Lincolnville Museum and Cultural Center and the ACCORD Civil Rights Museum.

The former is an African-American history museum located in the Lincolnville neighborhood, housed in the historic Excelsior School Building, which served as the first public Black high school in St. Johns County in 1925. The ACCORD is the first civil rights museum in Florida, opened in July, 2014, and also in the Lincolnville neighborhood. The museum showcases exhibits, articles, stories, and artifacts that recount the personal histories of the unsung heroes of the local 1960s’ civil rights movement, including artifacts from Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.’s stay in St. Augustine.

Not incidentally, I learned in the museum that Juan Garrido was the first known African in America, in 1513 and the birth of the first Black child is recorded here in 1606 in the Cathedral Parish Archives, 13 years before it is generally agreed that the first Black people arrived in the New World, in Jamestown in 1619.

Another tidbit that might be news to a Northerner, which I picked up in the Lincolnville Museum: The June 19, 1964, issue of The New York Times reports, on the front page, that 16 rabbis, along with a contingent from New York, were arrested in St. Augustine, as they attempted to integrate the restaurant at the Monson Motor Lodge, and mayhem ensued, including the attempt to integrate the swimming pool, while the hotel manager poured muriatic acid into the pool!

If I have not convinced you that St. Augustine needs to be on your bucket list, here are a few more inducements: The St. Augustine Lighthouse & Maritime Museum is a working, black-and-white-candy-cane-striped lighthouse, built between 1871 and 1874.

And if water is your playground, then know that the Atlantic is not your only choice for watersports—if you seek out kayaking or canoeing, try the Matanzas River and the Matanzas Bay. You’ll not want for parks, either—Anastasia State Park offers more than 1,600 acres of beaches, tidal marches, and ancient sand dunes for hiking and exploration and Alpine Groves Park, overlooking the St. Johns River, is a designated destination on the Great Florida Birding Trail.

Let me also underscore that there are countless local festivals that dot the 2023 calendar, including Sing Out Loud; Whiskey, Wine & Wildlife, a four-day celebration; and the St. Augustine Music Festival, among the many that you can rely on as an anchor for your visit. Coming up in a few weeks is the St. Augustine Food + Wine Festival (May 3-7).

Where to Stay

The Collector Luxury Inn & Gardens (adults only) is well-situated and features 30 appealing rooms—all different—in a delightful enclave off the main drag.

Located on the site of the former Dow Museum of Historic Houses, the one-acre plot is home to nine guest houses, dating from 1790 to 1910. General Manager Charles Robles could not have been more accommodating—he even brought out a 20″-long wire-cutter to disengage my jammed TSA-approved lock from my suitcase. Seriously.

Additional info: www.historiccoastculture.com
All photos courtesy of the St. Johns Cultural Council, unless indicated otherwise.

© 2023 Ruth J. Katz All Rights Reserved

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