No one knows for sure who the Harrison Ford character was based upon in the Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark film franchise. George Lucas, the franchise’s producer, said that Indiana Jones was modeled after the heroes in 1930’s matinée serials. But he was also inspired by real archaeologists like Hiram Bingham, Roy Chapman Andrews and Sir Leonard Woolley.

But some do point to Hiram Bingham, an American historian and lecturer at Yale University, who journeyed high into the Peruvian Andes in search of The Lost City of the Incas in 1911. With the help of local Andean farmers, he was led to a site of monumental granite structures, terraces and temples covered by more than four centuries of lush jungle growth.

Yet, others considered an earlier rediscovery of the citadel to Agustin Lizarraga, a tenant of Cusco homelands, who came to the ruins nine years before Bingham. Bingham dimished the account as untrue, believing Lizarraga would have left an inscription on one of the Temple of the Three Windows‘ wall as a form of authentication. But, some historical data suggests that Lizarraga’s markings might have been intentionally deleted. Like Machu Picchu, the history of its rediscovery is still shrouded in mystery today.

After much speculation, it was determined that his discovery was none other than Machu Picchu (Old Mountain in Quechua, the ancient language of the Incas), and regarded as the estate of the Inca emperor Pachacuti, the first Incan expansionistic emperor. The location was chosen as a religious center due to its position in the mountains and its alignment with key astronomical elements important to the Incas. Still clouded in historical mystery, Machu Picchu inhabited a vertical world with approximately 200 structures divided into a lower and upper part, separating the farming from residential areas. Today it is one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World.

Lima: Peru’s Capital City

Lima was established by the much-despised Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro as the capital of New Spain. First coined Ciudad de los Reys (City of the Kings), it was constructed in a month when the skies were clear and the sun set on this new port town to ship back all the looted Incan gold and silver to Spain. The joke was on Pizarro for the eventual moniker of Lima la Gris (the thick blanket of fog that covers the city for almost the entire year) was a more apt description.

Today, with a population of 11,045,000 million people, Lima is a primarily a melting pot of Andean-Indian, Creole, Mestizo and recent immigrant people. To experience its unique history, cuisine, festive culture of music and dance, and pre-Colombian, Spanish colonial-style and modern architecture rates a trip of its own.

During the Colombian Exchange, the Spaniards introduced to Europe a selection of carefully cultivated Incan tubular root samples, which would revolutionize the diet of virtually the entire world: THE POTATO. For over 5,000 years, Andean farmers have been practioners in indigenous agricultural landscape management with terraces, ridges fields, water management, soil management and traditional agricultural tools, adapted to the ecosystems of the different Andean altitudes ranging from 8,200 to 16,400 ft.

Like Mexico, Peru has been noted for its contributions to global cuisine. With apologies to xenophobic Euro-American U.S. citizens, our diets have been endowed by not just potatoes, but also by beans, maze, squash, tomatoes, avocados, chili peppers and the very traditional Turkey Fowl – all from the New World.

Accommodations were at the luxurious Casa Andina Private Collection Miraflores, well situated in Lima’s high-end beach community of Miraflores. I was in no hurry leave such a vibrant city, but knew the next day I would board a plane for Cusco, the capital of the Incan Empire.

Inca Emperor Huayna Capac and Pizarro & the Conquistadors

The adored Inca emperor Huayna Capac died from European diseases without actually having met a Spaniard. In 1532, he was afflicted by an Incan runner who had passed it on to him after his own affliction upon meeting a group of conquistadors. Today, many speak of the Coronavirus pandemic (COVID-19) as an unparalyzed period in human history. Yet, the continents of the Americas were virtually emptied of native inhabitants – some academics estimate that approximately 95% (20 million) of the population – may have died following the European invasion from diseases in which they had no immunity.

At the height of his power, the Inca Empire controlled all of the western part of South America between what is today Ecuador and Chile. Before Capac’s death he divided the empire in half, leaving it to his two jealous sons, Atahualpa and Huáscar. Both men wanted to be sole emperor, and a civil war broke out among the Incas.

Pizarro and his force of just 168-men, one-cannon and 27-horses arrived at the right time and at the right place. Divide and conquer was their age-old theme. They sided with Atahualpa, who was already close to defeating Huáscar. After Atahualpa’s victory, the Spaniards turned on Atahualpa, holding him for ransom with the return of a room filled with gold and silver. After the Incas fulfilled their end of the bargain, the Spanish continued with their plan and murdered Atahualpa anyway. They also took the wives of Incan royalty as their mistresses. The remaining Incan people who had not died from disease or battle were used as slaves, transporting the spoils of victory to Lima.

Birth of the Incas – Never Let the Truth Ruin a Good Story

With no written language – using knots in ropes as a form of rudimentary communication – the Incas led Spanish historians to believe that Lake Titicaca was the cradle of civilization. And the Sun God had sent his son and daughter from the waters with the command of finding a location which would constitute the centerpiece of the mighty Inca Empire. They carried a sacred golden staff on a long quest to a place where the staff would be able to sink into the rocky soil.

This trek led to the founding of Cusco – the navel of the world – and the new Inca Empire was established. Truth be told, the Inca Empire lasted only 100 years, and was built upon the remnants of previous empires, most notably the 500-year-long expansionistic Wari Empire, which is believed to have collapsed due to politcal infighting and severe droughts.

The Incas used a variety of methods, from conquest to peaceful assimilation, to incorporate a massive empire. Their organic use of stone, which were fitted together without mortar to form walls, are still standing today, while numerous Spanish colonial-style structures crumbled, succumbing to the area’s many earthquakes. Countless architects have been influenced by the Inca’s intricate and painstaking work on their stone walls, including the esteemed Frank Lloyd Wright.

With Cusco situated in the Sacred Valley, it was easy to be mesmerized by weaving demonstrations, river rafting on the Urubamba River, visiting a llama ranch, an Ollantaytambo town ruins tour and witnessing Andean farms and terraces built by the Incas over 500 years ago.

With the advent of oxen, introduced by the Spanish, no longer would the pre-Columbian populace have to use human strength in dragging their stones and materials. What I enjoyed the most were the little Andean farms, still using to pull their ploughs on terraces built by the Incas over 500 years ago.

I noticed many ceramic oxen decorations, known as Torito de Pucara, placed on rooftops to bring good luck, crops and livestock fertility, and prosperity. It was like watching living history.

As a gateway city to Machu Picchu, Cusco is a major tourist destination and receives almost two-million visitors a year. Stand warned – it is beyond touristic with hungry merchants anxious to sell you their wares. With the elevation of 11,200 feet, I was a little worried about altitude sickness. So, along with my Wari and Incan guides, I sucked (not chewed) on coca leaves and which seemed to do the trick. Plus, no seemed to notice my chipmunk bloated cheeks, that is except my photographer, Deb Roskamp.
For more: The Coca leaf and its Importance in the Inca Culture | CuscoPeru.com

Getting to Machu Picchu from the Sacred Valley is a breathtaking journey through a changing landscape with a bus ride to a glass-domed train trip to the Amazonian city of Agues Calientes and then another fun, but bumpy bus ride up to the gate of Machu Picchu .

Nothing prepared me for the beauty of this ancient site as I stood at the guardhouse that ends the Inca Trail and overlooks the site – the same view that the Incas would see when entering Machu Picchu. It is something that everyone needs to experience at least once in a lifetime.

Modern Myth

Did the Inca civilization know about the wheel? Yes, but they rarely used it, due to the mountainous terrain and lack of sturdy beasts of burden. The wheel, though, was used for weaving methods and children’s toys.

Where I Stayed

Sol y Luna Resort is more than a collection of private casitas in the Sacred Valley; it is a sacred experience unto itself. Surrounded by lush vegetation with the stunning Andean Mountains as a backdrop, it is like staying at your own private Shangri-La, yet also serving as a pre-Colombian destination with group offerings. Attractions featured a traditional Pachamanca (Quechua: earth, pacha; pot, manca) dinner – much like a Hawaiian luau – with potatoes and guinea pig (cuy; pronounced: kwee), served whole, head included. Events also included a Peruvian cooking demonstration, a seminar devoted to the Pisco Sour (blending pisco, a grape brandy produced in wine making regions of Chile and Peru, with lime juice, egg white and Angostura bitters dissolved in alcohol). For teetotalers, chicha (the main beverage of the Incas, made from a variety of maize) was served at most meals. All this with folkloric Andean dancing in the foreground.

Coronavirus updates and travel restrictions to entering Peru

Peru Travel restrictions, updated on August 4th, 2022.

The latest travel restrictions for Peru are that all travelers must be fully vaccinated or have a negative COVID-19 test result within 48 hours of their flight. They must also complete a Health Declaration form before arriving in the country.

Official Tourism Website of Peru | Peru Travel

4000 Types Of Potatoes In Peru

The post What Little I Knew: The Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu & Incan Cities appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Deep turquoise waters, ancient Andean cultures, breath-taking landscapes, and majestic 400 year old cathedrals make the region and city of Ayacucho one of Peru’s most interesting, yet least visited, tourist attractions.

Unfortunately, this unique region is known more as the birthplace of the terrorist organization Sendero Luminoso or Shining Path, who ruthlessly dominated the area in the 1980s and 90s, than for its astonishing history, culture and scenery.

With that said, today Ayacucho proves to be the perfect destination for tourists in search of a more local experience in the central highlands than might be found in larger sites like Cusco or Arequipa.

Brief History of the Shining Path

Winding up and up from the Pacific coast into the central highlands of Peru, one realizes how Ayacucho, a historically isolated and often forgotten region of Peru, became home to a tragic internal conflict which would eventually claim an estimated 69,000 lives between the years 1980 and 2000 (according to the Truth and Reconciliation Commission established by the Peruvian government).

In 1969, El Partido Comunista del Peru – Sendero Luminoso (Peruvian Communist Party – Shining Path) was founded by its leader Abimael Guzmán, a philosophy teacher at San Cristóbal of Huamanga University in Ayacucho. Guzmán, who became enamored by Maoist ideology, began introducing communism to his students and recruiting them for guerrilla warfare and cultural revolution.

The party, confined primarily to academic circles during the 1970s, began its attacks in 1980 by burning ballot boxes in a village near Ayacucho, attempting to stifle the country’s first attempt at democratic elections since 1964. Sadly, this attack was only the beginning of their reign of terror and a long, tragic period of violence in Peru.

While the government turned a blind eye for over a year, the party began brutal, coordinated attacks and assassinations on political leaders, labor unions, and other peasant organizations. They gathered support from primarily poor, rural areas where many only spoke Quechua, an indigenous language.

When in 1981 the Peruvian government finally declared a state of emergency, it would only complicate the situation for the people of Peru. The decree consequently gave the military unequivocal power to detain anyone under suspicion of terrorism, leading to an overall escalation of violence.

As the conflict grew stronger, local people found themselves trapped between a rock and a hard place, between the Peruvian military and the Shining Path, both sides guilty of intimidation, massacre, kidnapping, rape, and torture. A primary tactic of both groups was the kidnapping of men and boys. For the Shining Path, kidnapping served as a form of recruitment and social control. For the military, the tactic was used as “punishment” for political leaders or anyone else suspected of sympathizing with the Shining Path.

Not unlike most internal conflicts, civilians suffered the worst of the violence. Studies estimate that over 90% of deaths and disappearances were suffered by innocent townspeople who sided neither with the military nor the Shining Path. Out of all the victims, 4 out of every 10 were from the region of Ayacucho, 3 of every 4 were Quechua-speakers, and over half were farmers or shepherds.

In 1992, the Shining Path slowly began to collapse with greater pressure from the military and the capture of Abimael Guzmán, but it would be almost 10 more years before the party truly disintegrated into smaller, less influential groups.

Today, the people of Peru and especially Ayacucho remember these years with deep sadness and pain. They remember the anxiety of a time when no one could sleep peacefully, a time when fear ruled. They remember the government and international community turning a blind eye to their suffering. They remember fleeing to other regions and cities, leaving behind family, lands, and animals. Yet most importantly, they will always remember the thousands of people who were victims of violence, kidnapping, and murder.

Speaking with locals, I found that they want others to be educated about the evils that occurred, yet they no longer want their home to be defined by these experiences.  Locals want their city and region to be remembered for what it offers, for the various pre-Incan cultures who ruled there, for their unique contributions to art and music, for the battle site where Peru won its independence, and for its kind and humble people.

Ayacucho Today

At 9,058 ft. (2,761 m.) above sea level, the Andean city of Ayacucho lies between rolling hills and farmlands. If you decide to brave the long, windy, 10 hour bus ride from Lima, you’ll experience firsthand the natural beauty and geographical isolation of the region.

Like many Peruvian cities, Ayacucho, a town of over 180,000 people, is quickly growing and houses continue to pop up on the surrounding hillsides. The tourist lookout, Mirador de Acuchimay, which was originally constructed at the edge of the city, now stands smack in the middle. As one local pointed out, you now have to turn 360° there to see the city in its entirety.

Inside the City

As you begin to explore the city, the central plaza (plaza de armas) is unavoidable. The colonial architecture, well-maintained gardens, and central statue resemble those of Cusco. But as one local proudly commented, “We should begin saying Cusco resembles Ayacucho, not the opposite,” believing Ayacucho was Peru’s true historical and cultural origin.

Entering the main cathedral dating back to 1672 is worth your time, and for a fee of 10 soles ($3) you can receive a tour of the museum and crypt and climb the bell tower for a wonderful view of the city and plaza. The museum is home to church artifacts as well as a Peruvian painting of the Lord’s Supper with traditional foods like guinea pig on the table. If you’re still interested afterwards in visiting more colonial churches, don’t worry. Sometimes known as the city of churches, Ayacucho has over 30 other cathedrals and chapels.

After exploring the plaza and city center, we took the short walk to “El Museo de la Memoria.” This small museum is dedicated to remembering the victims of violence during the 1980s and 90s and honoring the courage of those who fought for truth and justice. The chilling exhibit was created by ANFASEP, the organization which resisted violence and worked to locate and free missing or detained persons. Inside is a timeline of events, art dedicated to those who were lost, personal testimonies, and artifacts. The stories of everyday people who disappeared, their photos, and the absence they left behind are especially impactful.

From El Museo de la Memoria, it’s only a brief stroll to the Hipolito Unanue Museum where you’ll find artifacts such as art, weapons, and tools from various ancient cultures dating back hundreds or even thousands of years.

Ayacucho would not be complete without an appreciation of its unique art, especially ceramics and detailed wooden boxes called retablos. Art galleries are located throughout the city containing pieces depicting scenes from the Andean countryside, Catholic religion, or the period of violence. If you’re looking for a souvenir, make your way to the artisan market (Mercado de Artesanías) and find local artists selling their own work.

While in the city, be sure to try typical foods like mote (corn and tripe soup), cuy (guinea pig), alpaca steak, and most notably puca picante, a strikingly red, spicy dish made from a beets and peanut sauce. If you’re in the main plaza, grab a handmade ice cream called muyuchi or head to a Belgian-owned restaurant called ViaVia Café which serves a variety of dishes including quinoa and alpaca.

Day Trip Adventures

These light blue, naturally-forming pools outside Ayacucho have become a popular tourist destination ever since they were opened by locals a few years ago. Although a long drive (3.5 hours), the day trip is an opportunity to see the high altitude countryside dotted with wheat fields and wild agave and cactus.

Upon arrival, a short hike takes you up into the hills, and the view from 11,600 ft. above sea level is stunning.  From above, a small stream becomes a waterfall and cuts through high rock walls where it settles into blue-colored pools. In the sunlight, an optical illusion makes the water appear turquoise due the presence of certain minerals. It’s a rare and beautiful site, and tours from the city (in Spanish) only cost around 80 PEN ($25).

While still under excavation, the Wari site provides a fascinating look into the customs and beliefs of one of Peru’s most powerful and widespread pre-Incan empires. Within the complex, you’ll discover ruins of a sacrificial altar, royal houses, burial and religious sites, and water systems.

The Inca were masters at adopting the best in art, science, and culture from each culture they conquered. It was no different with the Wari. Rock walls from late Wari culture are almost identical to Incan construction you’d see in Cusco, and their water systems are clear forerunners to those of their conquerors. As our guide shared with Ayacuchan pride, “Here we’ll see who actually learned from whom.”

In Quinoa, the heart of Ayacucho’s ceramic arts, you’ll see local artists at work and later peruse shops with a variety of handmade products. Just three minutes down the road is La Pampa de Ayaucho (The Plains of Ayacucho), where Peru won its final and decisive battle against the Spanish. An obelisk has been constructed in honor of the soldiers, and the high plain provides a spectacular view of the valley and city below. We found the trip to be worth our time and money, only costing 40 PEN ($12) for transportation and a guide.

Ayacuchan Pride

Throughout our visit, I enjoyed many conversations with locals and tour guides. As they shared their experiences, I felt both the sadness of their experiences as well as their hope and pride in their city and region.

On our last morning I took a walk into the plaza and was met by a familiar site here in Peru — a local parade. As always, the national anthem began the ceremony.  But then I noted a significance difference. In place of the typical whispers and mumbles, I heard a roaring anthem. The lyrics seemed to rise from a place deep within each police officer, soldier, student, parent, and teacher.  Perhaps it was a coincidence or maybe, just maybe, their voices represented a not-forgotten struggle against terror and a new-found freedom and peace.

Regardless, the words rang strong and true:

“Somos libres, séamoslo siempre…”

 (We are free, may we always be so…)

“En su cima los Andes sostengan la bandera o pendón bicolor…”

(On its summit may the Andes sustain the two-color flag…)

“…a su sombra vivamos tranquilos”

(…under its shadow may we live in peace)

****Disclaimer: “The content of this website is mine alone and does not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. Government, the Peace Corps, or the Peruvian Government.”

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