{"id":10435,"date":"2019-03-08T22:15:02","date_gmt":"2019-03-09T06:15:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=10435"},"modified":"2019-04-08T16:57:54","modified_gmt":"2019-04-08T23:57:54","slug":"blachford-lake-northwest-territories","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/blachford-lake-northwest-territories\/","title":{"rendered":"Stars Over Blachford Lake: Off the Grid in Canada\u2019s Northwest Territories"},"content":{"rendered":"

YELLOWKNIFE, Canada \u2013 Ranking Blachford Lake Lodge has never been easy.\u00a0 Creative, rustic, \u201cone man\u2019s folly,\u201d and gold-star luxury are just a few of the adjectives that befuddled lodging associations have applied to this remarkable eco-lodge, deep in the heart of Canada\u2019s Northwest Territories. And it\u2019s that last adjective \u2013 luxury \u2013 that misses the mark.<\/p>\n

\"drone
Off-the-grid lodges, like Blachford Lake Lodge need a lake, for float and ski plane deliveries, piped water and sports activities.<\/span> Photo: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Yet it\u2019s just how repeat guests \u2013 travelers who\u2019ve drunk the Kool-Aid \u2013 describe this deliciously inviting hilltop oasis. Just not London-style luxury, according to English artist Diana Pullman, on her second day at the lodge. \u201cThe difference is we\u2019re in the wilderness here, off the grid,\u201d she said, knocking the snow off her boots. \u201cLog lodges don\u2019t need Persian rugs and gold-framed paintings to be special,\u201d she pointed out, curling up next to the wood stove where we were drying our socks.<\/p>\n

\u201cJust look at these timbers, they\u2019re classic log cabin,\u201d she said, gesturing at the peeled massive beams, the unfinished pine paneling and the plywood floors, painted an unobtrusive dark-maroon. \u201dThe open-space design, high ceilings, big windows, light from all angles. It\u2019s traditional and<\/em> contemporary. Get the basics right \u2013 great food and good beds \u2013 and you don\u2019t need frills.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Twin
View from the hill of arriving and departing guests and their plane, a Twin Otter, connecting in Yellowknife.<\/span> Photo: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Flying on a ski-plane from Yellowknife and landing on the frozen lake, we were greeted by a snowmobiler hauling a sled. Beyond him came the welcome committee, a half-dozen smiling Gen Y guides swaddled in thick jackets and wool hats, young adults who bustled about, sorting the luggage and checking our names off a list.<\/p>\n

Volunteers hired for two-month stints from a half-dozen foreign countries, they were as eager as we were to be there, experiencing a true sub-arctic winter. They weren\u2019t what I expected, but it was impossible to ignore their enthusiasm, as they escorted us up the hill, talking all the way. \u201cHere, let me carry your backpack,\u201d said Adrian Allen from Australia, pointing out the skating rink in the cove below, the circular hilltop trails and the Nordic skis and poles stacked on the rack near the front door. \u201cIt\u2019s this way to the teepee, around the back, and that way to the sauna,\u201d said Maude Bergeron-Lambert, from Quebec<\/a> who was waiting on the hilltop, ready with a brief orientation. \u201cYour room is the big one upstairs, where Kate and Will, the \u201croyals,\u201d stayed when they were here,\u201d she said, giggling.<\/p>\n

\"winter
The winter sun on the eastern horizon greets early risers at Blachford Lake Lodge, Canada\u2019s Northwest Territories.<\/span> Photo: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Looking back to the lake below, where our transportation \u2013 an uninsulated Twin Otter with fold down seats \u2013 picked up speed, lifted off and disappeared over the endless forest, I suddenly felt alone. The fact that the rarely-visited Northwest Territories (one of Canada\u2019s three northern territories) contain 520,000 square-miles of mountains, lakes and canyons, twice the size of Texas, was just as sobering. It didn\u2019t take the 28 of us guests very long to introduce themselves.<\/p>\n

Ray, in the room down the hall, compared it to the speed with which he made friends as a twelve-year- old at summer camp.\u00a0 As for me, this four-day getaway felt like a country house party of yore \u2013 think Downton Abbey \u2013 with the duke\u2019s good friends gathering for fresh air, bird shooting, trout fishing and candlelit dinners.<\/p>\n

There were differences, of course. Candles were thin on the ground and there were no silk draperies, crystal chandeliers or marble-tiled bathrooms. Also absent were mini-bars and television along with 24-hour room service, air conditioning and intermittent Internet access.<\/p>\n

With no roads, no cars and no traffic, the only sound was the wind; the only essentials, the fresh air, the trees and the lake. With stacks of equipment available at no charge \u2013 Nordic skis, snowshoes, ice skates and hockey sticks \u2013 and a hole in the ice for fishing, there was no reason to stay indoors.<\/p>\n

\"snowshoe
With new snow hiding the trail, snowshoe hikers stay together.<\/span> Photo: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The most popular sport was snowshoeing, usually on signed trails. These began at the lodge and looped away over the hilltop, through the trees, over a creek or two, beside the meadows and back. Clumping around on what\u00a0Allen called \u201chomemade tennis rackets\u201d was not just easy, but fun.\u00a0 And, plenty of comic relief every time somebody toppled over into a snowbank. Hockey fans put on skates and headed to the pond (a small bay where kayaks dock in the summer). Alpine (downhill) skiers who\u2019d never tried cross country skiing \u2013 and were confident they had the right stuff \u2013 went down to the lake where the staff, using a snowmobile and roller, had laid down a couple of miles of looping, groomed tracks. The longest track headed straight down the lake for a mile, circled a small island and returned on the far side, requiring swooping strides that quickly revealed unknown muscles. A shorter track curved in and out of the adjacent coves, a bonus for multi-tasking photographers.<\/p>\n

\"northern
The Lodge\u2019s location, near the magnetic north pole, virtually guarantees northern lights, seen here as snowflakes fly.<\/span> Photo: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Not everything depended on aerobics. We joined the igloo building session, a chance to prove you were handy with a saw, able to cut blocks from hard snow and remembered enough geometry to angle the edges needed to make the dome. And there was the hot-tub escape, a sauna, and\u00a0the marshmallow-roast on a campfire in the teepee, located on a north-facing ridge. It was here, facing north at night, that everyone gathered to watch the aurora borealis, a ghostly ribbon of green rising over the horizon. Shape-shifting, it hung in the sky, then slowly faded. Though sightings are never guaranteed, Blachford Lake Lodge\u2019s unique location close to the magnetic north pole, makes viewing likely.<\/p>\n

\"room
Several room additions and two rows of solar panels bring light and power to the lodge.<\/span> Photo: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Though mostly invisible to guests, the biggest challenge for \u201coff the grid\u201d lodges like Blachford Lake Lodge, is providing the essentials:\u00a0 electric power, water and heat, said Sarah Van Stiphout, the general manager and one of four employees on hand (others are based in Yellowknife). \u201cWhen owner Mike Freeland bought the property in 1981, it had one small cabin \u2013 now restored and named Old Trapper\u2019s Cabin \u2013 and nothing else,\u201d she told me. \u201cNo electricity, gas, water, lights, nothing. Friends who came out to visit brought their camping gear.\u201d<\/p>\n

Thirty-odd years later, environmental technology has produced an eco-sustainable model that would work anywhere. Here, completely alone, you can read by the lights in your room. You can charge batteries, drink the water, flush the toilet, take a hot shower and stay warm in your shirtsleeves. You can even ask Chef Carla to bake bread and make a blender-whipped smoothie.<\/p>\n

\"lounge,
The lounge, plus dining room, bar, library corner, sofas and wood stoves, makes a single gathering place.<\/span> Photo: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Four sets of roof-top solar panels get a boost from a single wind turbine connected to five sets of batteries. With a backup diesel generator, the system produces more power and heat than the lodge needs or uses, even in the coldest winters. The water for brushing teeth is drinkable, filtered on-site by a plant that also turns waste water to grey water for use in gardens and shrubbery. And a waterless process installed below the main floor converts solid waste to compost.\u00a0 The \u201ccontemporary\u201d open spaces that Pullman admired circulate warm air, creating cozy nooks and a spacious living room, a single space for the bar, tables, sofas, the library and the open-counter kitchen, proof that wilderness and luxury can go hand in hand.<\/p>\n

Chance are, it won\u2019t be long before you, too, are drinking the Kool-aid.<\/p>\n

IF YOU GO: The lodge is open in summer and in winter, that is, whenever the plane can land (on solid ice or open water). Five lodge rooms and five separate cabins are outfitted to sleep four or more, in king, queen and\/or bunk beds. Child rates depend on the season and date. All meals are included, served buffet style; two chefs prepare everything on site, from breads to salads and main dishes. Summer activities include kayaking, canoeing, swimming, hiking and badminton. Commercial flights land in Yellowknife, in Canada\u2019s Northwest Territories, to connect with the lodge-operated charter flight. For all information, including reservations and transportation, visit Blachford Lake Lodge<\/a>.<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

Writer Anne Z. Cooke, a regular contributor to most big-city Sunday newspaper travel sections and websites, visits the Arctic as often as possible. A former luxury-lodging columnist and a Huff Post blogger, she talks to readers at tr*************<\/span>@**<\/span>.com<\/span><\/a>, and on twitter at @anneontheroad..<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00a9The Syndicator2018\/19, Anne Z. Cooke.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ranking Blachford Lake Lodge has never been easy. Creative, rustic, \u201cone man\u2019s folly,\u201d and gold-star luxury are just a few of the adjectives that befuddled lodging associations have applied to this remarkable eco-lodge, deep in the heart of Canada\u2019s Northwest Territories. And it\u2019s that last adjective \u2013 luxury \u2013 that misses the mark.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":60,"featured_media":10440,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[2125,187,2128,2127,752,2126],"class_list":["post-10435","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-travel","tag-blachford-lake-lodge","tag-canada","tag-igloo-building","tag-northwest-territories","tag-snowshoeing","tag-yellowknife"],"yoast_head":"\nBlachford Lake, Northwest Territories, Canada - Traveling Boy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Located in deep in the heart of Canada\u2019s Northwest Territories, Blachford Lake Lodge is proof that wilderness and luxury can go hand in hand.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/blachford-lake-northwest-territories\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Blachford Lake, Northwest Territories, Canada - Traveling Boy\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Located in deep in the heart of Canada\u2019s Northwest Territories, Blachford Lake Lodge is proof that wilderness and luxury can go hand in hand.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/blachford-lake-northwest-territories\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Traveling Archive\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-03-09T06:15:02+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2019-04-08T23:57:54+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Winter-Sun.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"850\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"671\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Anne Z. Cooke\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Anne Z. Cooke\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"8 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/blachford-lake-northwest-territories\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/blachford-lake-northwest-territories\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Anne Z. 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Cooke","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/#\/schema\/person\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/e92a5445ce972c77cc39c6844972a8c59fdace40decbec5da1da2010da845003?s=96&d=retro&r=g","contentUrl":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/e92a5445ce972c77cc39c6844972a8c59fdace40decbec5da1da2010da845003?s=96&d=retro&r=g","caption":"Anne Z. Cooke"},"description":"Anne Z. Cooke, a travel and adventure writer, covers the world from digs in Los Angeles and a log cabin in the Rocky Mountains. A regular writer for the Tribune News Service, a wire service, her stories appear in travel and lifestyle publications in the U.S. and internationally. A some-time blogger and columnist, she covers a range of topics, ranging from luxury lodging to Arctic exploration and wildlife conservation, always with an eye out for the back story. These range from city touring, museum-loitering, temple-climbing, horseback riding, spa-lingering and volcano-watching to mountain climbing, glacier-skiing, river rafting, backpacking and float-plane fishing. Her byline has appeared in National Geographic Traveler, Westways, Backpacker, MotorHome, Travel 50 & Beyond, the Miami Herald, Chicago Sun-Times, Dallas Morning News, Houston Chronicle, Boston Globe, Minneapolis Star Tribune, Philadelphia Inquirer, Los Angeles Times and the Atlanta Journal-Constitution.","url":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/author\/anne\/"}]}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10435","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/60"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10435"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10435\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11197,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10435\/revisions\/11197"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/10440"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10435"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10435"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10435"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}