{"id":10510,"date":"2019-03-18T11:30:38","date_gmt":"2019-03-18T18:30:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=10510"},"modified":"2021-03-04T20:10:57","modified_gmt":"2021-03-05T04:10:57","slug":"tales-from-old-rocky-top-down-ohios-hocking-hills","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/tales-from-old-rocky-top-down-ohios-hocking-hills\/","title":{"rendered":"Tales from Old Rocky Top: Down in Ohio\u2019s Hocking Hills"},"content":{"rendered":"

LOGAN, Ohio \u2013 If you paused long enough to read the trailhead signs in Ohio\u2019s Hocking Hills State Park, you\u2019d find that the Black Hand sandstone underfoot was laid down 350,000 years ago, on an ancient seabed.\u00a0\u00a0 Or you could blow off the science lesson \u2013 like I did \u2013 and push ahead to the Old Man\u2019s Cave, past a meandering creek and down a level path. Level, it seemed, until both trail and creek abruptly vanished, swallowed up by a hole in the earth.\u00a0 A moment earlier I\u2019d been slathering sunscreen on my nose. Now shadows dimmed the sky, pinched between narrow walls, and the sun\u2019s filtered rays glanced off a cluster of half-hidden caves and a waterfall below.<\/p>\n

\"visitors
Hidden in plain sight, the Old Man\u2019s Cave surprises visitors exploring the trails in Hocking Hills State Park.<\/span> Photo courtesy: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For a moment I wondered if we \u2013 my sister Mary and I \u2013 had tumbled into Rivendell, in Middle-earth. But the shapes ahead weren\u2019t elves. They were teens on a school trip, posing for selfies<\/em> and daring each other to jump in the water. “Don\u2019t be a chicken,” teased one of the girls. “It\u2019s nothing special. Just a creek.”\u00a0 But not to us, nor the hikers behind us, astonished as their surroundings. The Old Man\u2019s Cave was as fabulous as it was unexpected. But our next day\u2019s outing, a nature walk booked in advance, which \u2013 to my surprise \u2013 included an introduction to rappelling \u2013 outdid the caves by half.<\/p>\n

\"Ecologist
Ecologist Steve Roley\u2019s guided walks reveal the mystery of hemlock and birch forests.<\/span> Photo courtesy: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“Don\u2019t we need a cliff to step off?” asked Mary, nervously scanning the landscape as eco-biologist Steve Roley, our guide, a rock climber and the owner of High Rock Adventures, gathered the group together. “Yeah, where\u2019s old rocky top?\u201d echoed the guy behind me.<\/p>\n

But Roley, a student of native plants, was in no hurry as we strolled uphill beneath birches and hemlocks. Stopping here and there, he pointed out the edible plants that thrive beneath hemlocks, trees descended from similar hemlocks that flourished 10,000 years ago, when the climate was cooler and moister. “These here are jack-in-the-pulpits and those are may apples,” he said, moving on to a patch of greenbriar and a solitary sweet Sicily. Then Roley stopped short, next to two rocky walls. “Geeez,” said somebody, gazing skyward. But before you could snap your fingers, we\u2019d buckled up, climbed to the top, wobbled over a narrow bridge, and one-by-one, gasped, backed off into thin air and “bumped” down the wall to the ground.<\/p>\n

\"tight
Tight quarters and low ceilings in the Old Man\u2019s Cave must have been uncomfortable!<\/span> Photo courtesy: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“Wow, it\u2019s easy, let\u2019s do it again!” clamored the group, thrilled \u2013 and relieved \u2013 that they hadn\u2019t backed out. And to think that a month earlier, I\u2019d written off Ohio as one of the states you fly over on your way to somewhere else. And I might have if my sister, who lives in Kent, hadn\u2019t suggested visiting the Hocking Hills, southeast of Columbus. “C\u2019mon, this is Daniel Boone country, with log cabins and pioneer history, like those books we used to read,” she said. “Except that it\u2019s the 21st century. There\u2019s zip lines, music festivals, art galleries, antique malls. Even golf, or canoeing or we can look for the caves.” “Everybody wants to see the caves,” said Audrey Martin, at the Hocking Hills Tourism Association, in Logan, the county seat. “Whether they\u2019re nature lovers, or serious hikers, or families camping, everybody wants to get out and walk,” she said.<\/p>\n

\"the
The author grits her teeth while walking down the wall with High Rock Adventures.<\/span> Photo courtesy: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“Though the park gets an estimated 1.4 million visitors annually, the trails never seem crowded,” she said. “But come in autumn, if you can. When the weather cools and the maples and birch change colors, every hillside glows. They\u2019re a dazzling panorama of reds, golds, bright yellows and orange. The occasional splashes of green are hemlocks. They stay green all winter.”<\/p>\n

\"cabins
Cabins and cottages dot hills, hollers, and meadows in southeast Ohio\u2019s Hocking Hills.<\/span> Photo courtesy: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"cabin
Pioneer-built in the 1840s, the cabin that launched the Inn and Spa at Cedar Falls is still in use.<\/span> Photo courtesy: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/center><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Packing up, we drove southeast to Columbus and on to Hocking County on Route 33, crossing rolling meadows and farms. Turning off, the highway narrowed to winding two-lane roads, climbing, turning and dropping back into deep valleys before climbing the next series of ridges.\u00a0 Cottages, barns and trailers measured the miles; past front porches, vegetable gardens and clothes lines, rusty trucks and chicken coops. Here was a motor home, there a cottage. Until our last turn onto State Route 374 and the Inn & Spa at Cedar Falls, a family-owned inn whose\u00a0 1840s chinked-log cabin was now part of the kitchen, and still in use.<\/p>\n

Perched on 75 green acres near the State Park, the Inn was a modest B&B when the owner, Ellein Grinsfelder inherited it from her mother. Today it\u2019s classic rustic-luxury, with a cozy lodge, nine single rooms, 12 furnished log cabins (some with kitchenettes), four snappy yurts (where we stayed) and an outdoor fire pit plus benches. The restaurant, the neighborhood\u2019s best, employs a full-time chef and supports a large and inventive menu. The 1840s cabin houses a tiny bar and half the kitchen; a meeting room seating 50 hosts girl-friend reunions, county dinners, and small weddings.<\/p>\n

\"'Dogwood
\u201dDogwood Cabin,\u201d one of 12 at the Inn & Spa at Cedar Falls, is on 75 private acres.<\/span> Photo courtesy: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It was a brisk walk from the Inn to the State Park, handy for hiking from Cedar Falls to the Old Man\u2019s Cave, and to the most recently opened area, Whispering Cave. The park\u2019s other sections, close but not directly connected \u2013 Conkles Hollow, Ash Cave, Rock House and Cantwell Cliffs \u2013 add additional trails for a total of 35 miles of hiking trails and 33 miles of bridle trails.<\/p>\n

\"Mingo
Mingo Indian Chief Talgayeeta, aka Chief Logan, \u201ca friend of the white man,\u201d lives on in Logan, Hocking County\u2019s county seat, Ohio.<\/span> Photo courtesy: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/center><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The next day we toured Logan, named for the distinguished Mingo Chief who befriended the region\u2019s first white settlers and whose real name was Talgayeeta. Welcoming to all, he preached and practiced friendship, but was brutally murdered, along with his family, by two Indian-hating white settlers. Touring the town center we spotted his name and a picture on a small monument, a poignant reminder of Ohio\u2019s bloody Indian wars.<\/p>\n

The town\u2019s most popular attraction was probably the Columbus Washboard Factory, the last and only manufacturer of washboards. The business, owned by James Martin, a former Brit, sells thousands of washboards annually, mostly to country and bluegrass bands, who use them as a percussion instrument, but a few as souvenirs. The gift shop was awash in them, in a half-dozen sizes, along with hats, soap, honey, lotions, towels, playing cards and toys.<\/p>\n

\"tasting
Tasting real corn liquor at the Moonshine, from 100-proof to fruit flavored brandy.<\/span> Photo courtesy: \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On our last morning we headed for the Hocking Hills Moonshine, one of the last legal makers of old-timey corn liquor. Distilled on site, the moonshine is made of local spring water and crack corn (hard, dry kernels), the kind that comes in big sacks labeled \u201canimal feed.\u201d<\/p>\n

Stepping up for a taste, I wavered. Would I like the 80-proof \u201coriginal-recipe, the 120-proof \u201cBuckeye Lightning, or one of the tame, fruit-flavored liquors? The clerk waited, glass poised in mid-air.\u00a0 To heck with a swallow. After all, I\u2019d hiked up a hill, rappelled off Old Rocky Top and lived to tell about it. \u201cI\u2019ll buy a bottle,\u201d I told the clerk. \u201cI want to get MY corn liquor from a jar.\u201d \u201cHey,\u201d said Mary, waving the car keys. \u201cOne sip. You\u2019re driving.\u201d<\/p>\n

The Nitty Gritty:<\/h3>\n

Going: Fly to Columbus, Ohio, drive southeast on US 33 to Lancaster and Logan.<\/p>\n

Staying: The Inn & Spa at Cedar Falls<\/a>, State Rt. 374, Logan.<\/p>\n

Hocking Hills Tourism Association; Visitors Guide at 800-hocking or 740-385-2750.<\/p>\n

Eco-tours\/rappelling: High Rock Adventures<\/a><\/p>\n

Zip lining: Hocking Hills Canopy Tours<\/a><\/p>\n

Columbus Washboard Factory<\/a><\/p>\n

Hocking Hills Moonshine: tour and tasting, 519 East Front Street, Logan. 740-347-9044.<\/p>\n

Recommended reading: Eckert, Allen, “That Dark and Bloody River,” Bantam Books<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If you paused long enough to read the trailhead signs in Ohio\u2019s Hocking Hills State Park, you\u2019d find that the Black Hand sandstone underfoot was laid down 350,000 years ago, on an ancient seabed. Or you could blow off the science lesson \u2013 like I did \u2013 and push ahead to the Old Man\u2019s Cave, past a meandering creek and down a level path.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":60,"featured_media":10505,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[16],"tags":[2176,2178,2180,2174,2173,2179,2172,2175,2177],"class_list":["post-10510","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel-usa","tag-cedar-falls","tag-chief-logan","tag-corn-liquor","tag-hocking-hills","tag-hocking-hills-state-park","tag-moonshine","tag-ohio","tag-old-mans-cave","tag-talgayeeta"],"yoast_head":"\nDown in Ohio's Hocking Hills State Park - Traveling Boy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Ohio\u2019s Hocking Hills State Park with its caves, trails, log cabins and pioneer history, attracts 1.4 million visitors annually.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/tales-from-old-rocky-top-down-ohios-hocking-hills\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Down in Ohio's Hocking Hills State Park - Traveling Boy\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Ohio\u2019s Hocking Hills State Park with its caves, trails, log cabins and pioneer history, attracts 1.4 million visitors annually.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/tales-from-old-rocky-top-down-ohios-hocking-hills\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Traveling Archive\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-03-18T18:30:38+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-03-05T04:10:57+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Old-Man\u2019s-Cave.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"850\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"567\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Anne Z. Cooke\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Anne Z. Cooke\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"9 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/tales-from-old-rocky-top-down-ohios-hocking-hills\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/tales-from-old-rocky-top-down-ohios-hocking-hills\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Anne Z. 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Cooke","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/#\/schema\/person\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/e92a5445ce972c77cc39c6844972a8c59fdace40decbec5da1da2010da845003?s=96&d=retro&r=g","contentUrl":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/e92a5445ce972c77cc39c6844972a8c59fdace40decbec5da1da2010da845003?s=96&d=retro&r=g","caption":"Anne Z. Cooke"},"description":"Anne Z. Cooke, a travel and adventure writer, covers the world from digs in Los Angeles and a log cabin in the Rocky Mountains. A regular writer for the Tribune News Service, a wire service, her stories appear in travel and lifestyle publications in the U.S. and internationally. A some-time blogger and columnist, she covers a range of topics, ranging from luxury lodging to Arctic exploration and wildlife conservation, always with an eye out for the back story. These range from city touring, museum-loitering, temple-climbing, horseback riding, spa-lingering and volcano-watching to mountain climbing, glacier-skiing, river rafting, backpacking and float-plane fishing. Her byline has appeared in National Geographic Traveler, Westways, Backpacker, MotorHome, Travel 50 & Beyond, the Miami Herald, Chicago Sun-Times, Dallas Morning News, Houston Chronicle, Boston Globe, Minneapolis Star Tribune, Philadelphia Inquirer, Los Angeles Times and the Atlanta Journal-Constitution.","url":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/author\/anne\/"}]}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10510","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/60"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10510"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10510\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":23303,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10510\/revisions\/23303"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/10505"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10510"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10510"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10510"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}