{"id":10686,"date":"2019-03-22T08:05:04","date_gmt":"2019-03-22T15:05:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=10686"},"modified":"2019-04-23T23:06:19","modified_gmt":"2019-04-24T06:06:19","slug":"abandoned-trulli-of-the-valle-ditria","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/abandoned-trulli-of-the-valle-ditria\/","title":{"rendered":"Abandoned Abodes of the Valle d\u2019Itria"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10674\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-02.jpg\" alt=\"hiking trail at Valle d\u2019Itra, Puglia\" width=\"850\" height=\"637\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-02.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-02-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-02-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-02-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I live atop a wind-swept hill just a few winding, country kilometers outside of Ostuni,\u00a0<em>la Citt\u00e0 Bianca\u00a0<\/em>(the White City), in the verdant Valle d\u2019Itria of the Alto Salento (Upper Salento), a sub-region of Puglia in southeastern Italy.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10675\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-03_04.jpg\" alt=\"writer's home and olive grove at Valle d\u2019Itria, Upper Salento, Puglia\" width=\"850\" height=\"286\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-03_04.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-03_04-600x202.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-03_04-300x101.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-03_04-768x258.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Together with my Irish wife, Orna, we built Villa Allegra, our little bright-white house with Santorini-blue shutters, bookended by two groves of young, promising olive trees, almost two-and-a-half years ago.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10676\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-05_06_07_08.jpg\" alt=\"tending the olive groves near the writer's home\" width=\"850\" height=\"541\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-05_06_07_08.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-05_06_07_08-600x382.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-05_06_07_08-300x191.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-05_06_07_08-768x489.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>As\u00a0<em>lo staff\u00a0<\/em>(the staff), I\u2019m charged with pulling and strimming weeds, rototilling, irrigating, pruning and fertilizing all the plant life, mowing the grass, and, well, tending to just about everything that\u2019s not under the roof. Occasionally, I seek professional help because, in the words of Orna, I\u2019m the \u201creluctant olive farmer.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10677\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-09_10_11.jpg\" alt=\"the writer with his neighbor Bob Van and the latter's dog Orsino\" width=\"850\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-09_10_11.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-09_10_11-600x353.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-09_10_11-300x176.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-09_10_11-768x452.jpg 768w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-09_10_11-413x244.jpg 413w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>When not occupied with all the agrarian chores, which is not often, I like to put away my wellies and lace up my hiking boots and go for long treks around my quiet-as-a-mouse \u2018hood with my neighbor Bob Van, aka \u201cThe Trullo Hunter,\u201d and Orsino, his four-legged friend and, quite frankly, the best darn dog on the planet.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10678\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-12.jpg\" alt=\"Orsino with Bob Van in the background\" width=\"850\" height=\"609\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-12.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-12-600x430.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-12-300x215.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-12-768x550.jpg 768w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-12-104x74.jpg 104w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Even before I arrive at the front gate, Orsino is already whimpering, jumping up and down and wagging his tail like there\u2019s no tomorrow. Evidently, his canine sensors are signaling that it\u2019s time for walkies.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10679\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-13.jpg\" alt=\"Bob Van and Orsino negotiating a trail\" width=\"850\" height=\"599\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-13.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-13-600x423.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-13-300x211.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-13-768x541.jpg 768w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-13-104x74.jpg 104w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Bob\u2019s been living in our neck-of-the-woods way longer than me, and knows all of the trails, forks, bends and every red-earth path that you won\u2019t find on a map. In short, he knows the terrain like the back of his hand. He\u2019s a natural trailblazer and leads the way under the Pugliese blue whenever the three of us step out on our self-proclaimed Van-Weber Expedition around the undulating green groves, vineyards and orchards \u2014 where we inevitably stop, if no one is looking, to have a\u00a0<em>degustazione\u00a0<\/em>(little taste) just to see how the seasonal fruits, nuts and berries are maturing \u2014 in our off-the-grid corner of the Valle d\u2019Itria.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10680\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-14.jpg\" alt=\"an abandoned trulli or stone hut\" width=\"850\" height=\"627\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-14.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-14-600x443.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-14-300x221.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-14-768x567.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We\u2019ve been trekking and foraging together going on two years now, about the same amount of time that it took the historic Lewis and Clark Expedition (1804-1806) to discover a route to the Pacific Northwest of the United States and return safely to the starting point along the banks of the Mississippi River in St. Louis, MO, my hometown.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10681\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-15.jpg\" alt=\"abandoned trulli with cone-shaped roof\" width=\"850\" height=\"575\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-15.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-15-600x406.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-15-300x203.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-15-768x520.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>To give the Van-Weber Expedition a bit of purpose and structure, we always make it a point to go in search of abandoned\u00a0<em>trulli\u00a0<\/em>(<em>trullo\u00a0<\/em>is singular), those iconic, centuries-old, dry stone huts with conical roofs and\u00a0<em>pajaru<\/em>, the flattop or oval roof versions, that dot the rural landscape around our slice of paradise.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10682\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-16_17_18.jpg\" alt=\"more abandoned trulli at the Valle d\u2019Itria\" width=\"850\" height=\"928\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-16_17_18.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-16_17_18-600x655.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-16_17_18-275x300.jpg 275w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-16_17_18-768x838.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>According to some archeological experts, the\u00a0<em>trullo\u00a0<\/em>is believed to be a direct descendant of the Greek\u00a0<em>th\u00f3los\u00a0<\/em>(dome, or\u00a0<em>cupola\u00a0<\/em>in Italian), a beehive-shaped burial tomb of the Late Bronze Age that was, over time, modified into dry-wall constructed stone dwellings that sprung up around the Mediterranean. These dome-shaped abodes gained a foothold in Italy when the Greeks came ashore and stayed a spell in Puglia. The\u00a0<em>trulli\u00a0<\/em>of the Valle d\u2019Itria have been confirmed to date back only to the mid 14th Century.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10683\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-19_20_21.jpg\" alt=\"fully-restored trulli in Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage Site\" width=\"850\" height=\"748\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-19_20_21.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-19_20_21-600x528.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-19_20_21-300x264.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-19_20_21-768x676.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Not as neat and orderly as the 1,500 fully-restored\u00a0<em>trulli\u00a0<\/em>found in nearby tourist-friendly Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and ground zero of the so-called \u201cValley of the Trulli,\u201d our local, dry-wall limestone abodes \u2014 no mortar was used in the building of these original\u00a0<em>trulli\u00a0<\/em>nor their flat or oval-roofed cousins \u2014 are oftentimes hidden in plain sight, abandoned and pretty much decrepit. You just have to occasionally do a bit of bushwhacking to find them, and find them we do.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10684\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-22_23_24.jpg\" alt=\"more abandoned trulli\" width=\"850\" height=\"858\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-22_23_24.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-22_23_24-100x100.jpg 100w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-22_23_24-600x606.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-22_23_24-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-22_23_24-297x300.jpg 297w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-22_23_24-768x775.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve pretty much documented and catalogued each and every one that we\u2019ve encountered thus far. I\u2019d take along my drone to enhance the visual portfolio, but GPS tracking, for the moment, is a bit sketchy out here far from the madding crowd.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10685\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-25.jpg\" alt=\"Bob Van\" width=\"850\" height=\"638\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-25.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-25-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-25-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-25-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Bob\u2019s a chatty guy and great company. Whenever we encounter another human being along the way, usually a farmer working the land whose property we\u2019re crossing, we stop dead in our tracks, excuse the intrusion and have a chat. Initially, we\u2019re mistaken for tourists (Bob\u2019s a Belgian from the\u00a0Flemish side, I\u2019m a Yank) who\u2019ve lost their way, but once we identify ourselves as year-round residents living nearby, barriers drop, smiles awaken and lively conversations with associated hand gestures ensue.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10672\" src=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-26_27_28_29.jpg\" alt=\"more trulli, Bob Van and Orsino\" width=\"850\" height=\"643\" srcset=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-26_27_28_29.jpg 850w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-26_27_28_29-600x454.jpg 600w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-26_27_28_29-300x227.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Abandoned-Abodes-26_27_28_29-768x581.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>With loads of trails yet to be marked, and with the expert assistance of Bob \u201cThe Trullo Hunter\u201d and Orsino, his faithful companion, I\u2019m sure the Van-Weber Expedition\u2019s visual collection of abandoned abodes around the Valle d\u2019Itria will continue to expand.<\/p>\n<p>Ciao for now.<\/p>\n<p><strong>How to get there:<\/strong> Fly or train to Bari then rent a car and explore the communities of the Valle d\u2019Itria: Alberobello, Ceglie Messapica, Cisternino, Locorotondo, Martina Franca and Ostuni, along with the nearby coastal towns of Monopoli and Polignano a Mare.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Where to stay:<\/strong> Ostuni Palace Hotel &amp; Spa, in the heart of the city at Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 218<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Palladian Traveler puts away his wellies and laces up his hiking boots as he treks around the picturesque Valle d\u2019Itra of Puglia in search of deserted\u00a0trulli.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":10673,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[2193,29,2192,2189,2190,2191],"class_list":["post-10686","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-travel","tag-alberobello","tag-italy","tag-puglia","tag-trulli","tag-trullo","tag-valle-ditria"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.9 - 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