{"id":12284,"date":"2023-02-03T18:30:21","date_gmt":"2023-02-04T02:30:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=12284"},"modified":"2023-02-14T02:02:23","modified_gmt":"2023-02-14T10:02:23","slug":"bugaboos-canadas-premiere-hiking-climbing-arenas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/bugaboos-canadas-premiere-hiking-climbing-arenas\/","title":{"rendered":"The Bugaboos: Canada\u2019s Premiere Hiking and Climbing Arena"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"climbing
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SKIP KALTENHEUSER<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When the ebb and flow of the urban densities that wash over us start to feel like riptide, we yearn for nature\u2019s open spaces.\u00a0 Do kids \u2013 does pre-teen daughter Katie Jane \u2013 share that quiet panic sorting out a place in the world amid all the cultural noise, the school and family pressures?\u00a0 Sooner or later she will, living in the middle of Washington, DC<\/a>, and dad wants to impart early the tools of realignment.\u00a0 Nothing against the plains or oceans, but if you want to hypnotize a kid with nature, go for three-dimensional spaces with high vertical, try the Bugs \u2013 Canada\u2019s Bugaboos \u2013 one of the continent\u2019s premiere hiking and climbing arenas.<\/p>\n

Throw in a helicopter chauffeur, a magician in rarefied air who puts a twin-engine Bell 212 into a dive that threads a needle eye of granite spires like a biplane.\u00a0 Imagine that sight through the eyes of a child, jaw dropping, this new wow<\/em> factor tumbling theme park thriller rides into second tier memory files.<\/p>\n

\"climbing
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SKIP KALTENHEUSER<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Pressures ease as they thin out over an infinity of gray granite peaks wrapped in white glaciers.\u00a0 They sink amid colorful valleys with a rich palette of greens \u2013 from cedar and hemlock and larch \u2013 the latter in fall sliding into yellow \u2013 to stream-drenched moss and lichen, punctuated by meadows of wildflowers driven in August by the reds and yellows of Indian paintbrush, columbine, monkey flower and fireweed.<\/p>\n

These are the views that jerk the rugs of ho-hum usual, that will put everything else in perspective.\u00a0 It\u2019s a lasting comfort that there are very different places that, properly shepherded, will endure and wait for us for when we need them most.\u00a0 When KJ, a patent pending perpetual motion machine, is on the road with me, she\u2019s overtaken by serene calm.\u00a0 But the underlying energy still bubbles, positively, and the Bugs can take whatever she dishes out.<\/p>\n

\"climbing
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SKIP KALTENHEUSER<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Consider the vastness of the area, spilling beyond the Bugaboos into adjoining ranges of the Columbia Mountains of British Columbia.\u00a0 This includes the world\u2019s only temperate inland rainforest, running amid the rugged peaks which are a couple hundred million years older than our upstart Rockies.<\/p>\n

The\u00a0 purveyor of this experience, Canadian Mountain Holidays, operates twelve lodges, mostly for the main bread and butter of helicopter skiing, across an area nearly half the size of Switzerland.\u00a0 Roll all the European Alps together, and that\u2019s about the size of it.\u00a0 And there is a similarity to the Alps, being at the top, seeing an array of peaks to the horizon.\u00a0 But no people.\u00a0 Five lodges also do helicopter hiking and mountaineering, and KJ and I signed on for one of the family specific offerings, at Bugaboos Lodge.\u00a0 We flew to Calgary<\/a> and motored to Banff<\/a> and then a couple hours on a motor coach took us past Radium Hot Springs to a helicopter that took us the remainder.<\/p>\n

\"family
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SKIP KALTENHEUSER<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The 35 room lodge is nearly a mile in elevation and looks up at the remarkable Bugaboos Glacier, flowing around the stunning Houndstooth outcrop, which tops out at 9,250 feet, all framed by a forest bowl and higher granite spires.\u00a0 It\u2019s a dang impressive swath of white for August, even if considerably trimmed from prior glory by global warming.<\/p>\n

The guides, most of whom are also ski pros who never let career stand in the way of a good life, exhibit a genuine joy, and skill, at working with young people, from early grade school to teens.\u00a0 I marveled at the heights they could coax KJ to climb, beginning with the daunting four story climbing wall that runs alongside a high stairwell.<\/p>\n

Rooms are spartan but comfortable and roomy, ours had two big beds and a nice bath, and incredible views through windows that open wide.\u00a0 Zero television anywhere!\u00a0 Each room has a portrait of someone with a local mountain connection.\u00a0 Ours was an English WWI military nurse, Edith Cavell, with a mountain named for her.\u00a0 She became a English hybrid of Patrick Henry and the Alamo after she was executed by the Germans who claimed she helped Brit soldiers escape.\u00a0 The bath is nice, but we usually showered by the roof deck with the hot tub, and adjoining steam and sauna rooms.<\/p>\n

\"climbing
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SKIP KALTENHEUSER<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our days at the lodge began early.\u00a0 We were summoned by a bell ringer strolling the halls, prompting us to a stretching class and a hearty breakfast \u2013 the meals will make your lips quiver and dinners can honestly claim gourmet status.\u00a0 We then scramble into queue near the copter with our equipment.\u00a0 Weather changes on a dime and for most hikes one carries the necessary options in addition to plenty of water and energy snacks \u2013 chocolate to your heart\u2019s content.\u00a0 Packs with warm, rainproof parkas, rainpants, and poles are provided, as are hiking boots and, if needed, climbing shoes, ice axes and helmets.<\/p>\n

Groups take off in fast succession,\u00a0 like a precisely timed military assault, no one dares tarry. Which party one is in depends on general abilities or preferred activities, sorted by a joint assessment of guests and guides.\u00a0 For some efforts families stick mostly together, for others, kids can split off with special hikes and activities, including a lake swim and games like capture the flag.\u00a0 Guides impart a deep knowledge of the local ecology.<\/p>\n

Camaraderie thrives along mountain slopes, and in a few short days of long hikes, usually two a day \u2013 four copter rides \u2013 people from very different walks of life connected to their feel for nature soon know each other.\u00a0 Most return, including for ski season.\u00a0 One guest told of a ski group introducing themselves at dinner, tossing out what they did, and one fellow sheepishly mumbled he was a king \u2013 for the rest of the week most thought Carlos of Spain was a wiseacre.<\/p>\n

One late afternoon, an English barrister and his wife celebrating their 25th anniversary invited everyone to join them for champagne.\u00a0 The mom then beat the pants off her son, a college athlete, at ping pong.<\/p>\n

Katie joined my hiking group the first day, getting along well with the adults and keeping up after a guide and I divided her extra gear.\u00a0 The next day she elected to hike with a younger group, no offense, Dad.<\/p>\n

\"helicopter
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SKIP KALTENHEUSER<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One day everyone, kids and adults, \u2018coptered in after their first hikes \u2013 each copter group goes to a different locale so they don’t see anyone else on the hikes \u2013 to lunch at a fantastic locale where a barbecue was set up and the lady chef hard at work on steaks and sausages.\u00a0 The surrounding mountains were deceptive, as the copter lifted away it looked like it would collide with granite any moment, but it just kept getting smaller and smaller, the canyon we were in growing larger and larger.<\/p>\n

After lunch, most kids remained to climb area cliffs, most adults coptered to their second hikes, though they could stay, as I did, with the kids, climbing with them, some of the cliffs quite challenging in the moves they required.\u00a0 KJ, now a human fly, wouldn\u2019t believe she made it to the top of one very high granite cliff, belayed with a rope, until I later showed her photographic proof of the sun coming through her hair as her head popped above the edge.<\/p>\n

Later that night, after a swim in lake by the lodge and a grand dinner, we joined families at a campfire for sodas and wine and stargazing.<\/p>\n

KJ proved a marvel to the guides, who confided to me they wanted to bottle her and wished other kids were more like her.\u00a0 Guides deal with their share of privileged kids whom some might regard a bit spoiled, and teens in particular aren\u2019t shy about griping.\u00a0 Katie never complained, despite her pack and despite having considerable blisters \u2013 though well-tended \u2013 owing to our discovery of too tight shoes before she was fitted with boots. The airline lost our luggage, so for the entire trip Katie had only what she was wearing and what I could find in the lost and found bin of a Banff hotel.\u00a0 Wide-eyed and open to everything the guides\u00a0 said, and easy with conversation, the guides couldn\u2019t get enough of her.<\/p>\n

But I was most proud of the attention she showed a young lad with aspergers who was there with his grandparents and who took a shine to her.\u00a0 He\u2019s the age of her younger brother, who\u2019s recovering, splendidly from a medical fright that\u2019s been a long tension, and her blossoming empathy was the prettiest wildflower on the mountain.<\/p>\n

\"\"
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SKIP KALTENHEUSER<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A grandfather who treats his family to a yearly hiking session confided to me that the mountain tonic worked well for one of his grandkids.\u00a0 The teen had gone off his rails, heading to trouble in school and with a tough crowd.\u00a0 The Bugaboos entranced him, and remain a carrot that keeps his school work up and his behavior in bounds so he can return the following year.\u00a0 Along the way, he\u2019s become a different kid, a pleasure to be around.<\/p>\n

CMH\u2019s empire of solitude began with Austrian Hans Gmoser, who in the 1950s became a guide for Canada\u2019s Matterhorn, Mount Assiniboine.\u00a0 During his off-time, he performed little mountain feats like the first Wickersham Wall ascent of Mt. McKinley.\u00a0 One has to be in awe of such climbs, particularly given the difference in equipment decades ago.\u00a0 In 1965, helicopters seemed like a good idea, and he flew with it.\u00a0 CMH now catches about 7,000 skiers and 3,000 hikers a year, most of them repeat customers.<\/p>\n

\"climbing
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SKIP KALTENHEUSER<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This 53 year old pressed his luck with a rocky all day climb led by Mikey Olsthoor, a seasoned skiing and mountaineering guide.\u00a0 This wasn\u2019t a venture I let Katie in on.\u00a0 Mikey used the occasion to spank a college kid he\u2019d heard complaining the day before that he wasn\u2019t adequately challenged.\u00a0 Though an innocent bystander, I was spanked as well.<\/p>\n

I was stunned by Mikey\u2019s sure-footedness up glaciers and cliffs, skimming the edges of crevasses and their deceptive optical illusions, his guardian angel an ice axe he wields like a sculptor.\u00a0 Great to watch, then one remembers where Mikey goes, I got to go, wishing all the while I\u2019d skipped the last couple drinks offered by the copter pilot filling in as bar keep the night before.\u00a0 A gastrointestinal confrontation during the final nail biting climb forced me to summon a Zen concentration I\u2019d thought beyond me.\u00a0 I began to mull the multiple meanings of bugaboo, first a business scam in old England, then when a miner\u2019s treasure vein runs out, finally the fears and anxieties one challenges oneself to move past.\u00a0 It\u2019s not the mountain we conquer, wrote Sir Edmund Hillary, but ourselves.<\/p>\n

Mikey looks at a mountain, it\u2019s like reading a book, with near psychic reading of his clients\u2019 abilities and reservoirs of remaining strength.\u00a0 Though one can\u2019t recall exactly which crack in the rock he tickled or goosed with his toe, one at least knows there\u2019s something somewhere one can grasp for a moment and advance inches here, a foot there, ultimately to find out no, that\u2019s not the summit, more thrillers to come, but first a pause for views one struggles to commit to memory, with density now defined as someone up the rope, and someone below, and, things being relative, being the middleman seems crowded.<\/p>\n

Post Script: \u00a0Catching up on our timeline, the celebrated Katie is currently finishing a masters in social work at Catholic U., and brother Jack is well and studying art at SCAD. Canadian Mountain Holidays<\/a> is now booking for summer of this year, and for skiing, for winter\u00a0\u201921-\u201922.<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

CMH<\/a><\/p>\n

Main Switchboard:
\nTel: (403) 762-7100
\nFax: (403) 762-5879
\nToll Free: 1-800-661-0252
\nE-mail Inquiries: In**<\/span>@****<\/span>nc.com<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Mailing Address:
\nCanadian Mountain Holidays
\nBox 1660
\nBanff, Alberta
\nCanada
\nT1L 1J6
\nTel: (403) 762-7100
\n1.800.661.0252
\nFax: (403) 762-5879<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nothing against the plains or oceans, but if you want to hypnotize a kid with nature, go for three-dimensional spaces with high vertical, try the Bugs \u2013 Canada\u2019s Bugaboos \u2013 one of the continent\u2019s premiere hiking and climbing arenas.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":17,"featured_media":12277,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[1256,2552,187,2555,2554,2556,2553,2118,116,2557],"class_list":["post-12284","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-travel","tag-british-columbia","tag-bugaboos","tag-canada","tag-canadian-mountain-holidays","tag-glaciers","tag-helicopter-hiking","tag-hiking","tag-home_page","tag-mountain-climbing","tag-mountaineering"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Bugaboos: Canada\u2019s Premiere Hiking and Climbing Arena -<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The rugged peaks of the 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