{"id":15716,"date":"2020-02-22T18:30:28","date_gmt":"2020-02-23T02:30:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=15716"},"modified":"2020-04-15T17:45:41","modified_gmt":"2020-04-16T00:45:41","slug":"pilgrimages-places-ill-remember","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/pilgrimages-places-ill-remember\/","title":{"rendered":"Pilgrimages: Places I\u2019ll Remember"},"content":{"rendered":"

In My Life<\/h4>\n

There are places I’ll remember<\/em>
\nAll my life, though some have changed<\/em>
\nSome forever, not for better<\/em>
\nSome have gone, and some remain<\/em>
\nAll these places had their moments<\/em>
\nWith lovers and friends, I still can recall<\/em>
\nSome are dead, and some are living<\/em>
\nIn my life, I’ve loved them all<\/em>
\n\u2013 John Lennon & Paul McCartney<\/span><\/p>\n

A pilgrimage is defined by Oxford Dictionary as (1) A journey to a holy place for religious reasons, <\/em>or (2) Journey to a place that is connected with someone or something that you admire or respect. I fear I fit into category two, but with a slight twist: \u00a0pilgrimages to new places that have opened my eyes and colored my thoughts as I traversed across the globe. Indeed, the following are places I will always remember in my life.<\/p>\n

Dylan Thomas \u2013 Laugharne, Wales<\/h3>\n
\"Dylan
The converted boathouse where Thomas lived with his family.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cI was born in a large Welsh industrial town at the beginning of the Great War:
\n<\/em>an ugly, lovely town (or so it was, and is, to me).<\/em>\u201d
\n\u2013 Dylan Thomas<\/span><\/p>\n

No artist commands a deeper place in a Walesian\u2019s heart than poet and writer, Dylan Thomas<\/a>. Born in a middleclass home in Swansea<\/a>, Wales in 1914, Thomas moved often in his young life, with his work conveying a unique bond with the people and places on the South West Coast of Wales. A converted boathouse in Laugharne is where he spent the last four years of his life with his wife, Caitlin, and their three children. In an adjacent cliff side Writing Shed he wrote his famous play for voices, \u2018Under Milk Wood<\/em>,\u2019 along with many of his major works: \u2018And Death shall have No Dominion<\/em>,\u2019 \u2018Fern Hill<\/em>,\u2019 \u2018The Hunchback in the Park<\/em>\u2019 and \u2018Portrait of the Artist as a Young Dog<\/em>.\u2019 A short walk away is the Brown\u2019s Hotel<\/a>, where Dylan would stop for a daily pint after visiting his dying father at a nearby hospital, which led to ‘Do not go Gentle into that Good Night<\/em>.’<\/p>\n

\"the
Thomas\u2019 Writing Shed left just the way he liked it.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Dylan Thomas Trail<\/a><\/h3>\n

Spread across Southwest Wales, the Dylan Thomas Trail showcases quaint small towns, and remarkable land and seascapes which inspired Thomas. The Gower Peninsula features the fishing village of Mumbles and the stunning beach of Rhossili, where Dylan would camp and often walk the Gower cliffs. Two of his best loved short stories, \u2018Extraordinary Little Cough<\/em>\u2019 and \u2018Who Do You Wish Was With Us?<\/em>\u2019 are set in ethereal Rhossili. If you\u2019d like to hike further, the 870 mile long Wales Coast Path<\/a> spans the entire length of the Welsh coastline<\/p>\n

\"Dylan
A Thomas devotee pays homage at Dylan\u2019s gravesite.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dylan collapsed outside the White Horse Tavern in New York after having given a reading across the street. He had drunk 18 glasses of whiskey, and died shortly after. His death was mourned by the world\u2019s literary community. His final resting place is signified by a simple white cross in Laugharne\u2019s cemetery. Years later when fellow Walesian actor Richard Burton<\/a> died, he was buried with a copy of Dylan\u2019s Collected Poems<\/em> on his chest.<\/p>\n

Antoni Gaud\u00ed \u2013 Barcelona, Catalonia<\/h3>\n
\"Antoni
Casa Batll\u00f3 is one of Antoni Gaud\u00ed\u2019s enduring masterpieces. A UNESCO World Heritage site and iconic Barcelona treasure, it welcomes one million visitors per year.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Those who look for the laws of Nature as a support for their new works
\ncollaborate with the creator.
\n<\/em>\u2013 Antoni Gaudi<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Casa
Gaud\u00ed\u2019s modernist Casa Mil\u00e0, is popularly known as The Stone Quarry, due to its unconventional rough-hewn appearance.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Spending 16 hours was far too little time to explore the enthralling\u00a0 metropolis of Barcelona<\/a>, the capital of Spanish Catalonia. Peopled by 1.6 million stylish and sophisticated Barcelon\u00e9s, I was greeted with grand boulevards and welcoming pedestrian malls which wandered to the waterfront. I was particularly enchanted by the cityscape that reflects the lifelong work of Barcelona architect, Antoni Gaud\u00ed (1852 1826), considered the greatest exponent of Catalan Modernism. As a proud Catalander, he refused to speak Castilian and seldom left his beloved Catalonia. Gaud\u00ed\u2019s architecture illustrates his profound passion for nature and devotion to religion. Still ahead of his time, he integrated used ceramic pieces, stained glass and wrought ironwork into his architectural style. Seven of his works have been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and include the still-incomplete Sagrada Fam\u00edlia, the most-visited monument in Spain. A visiting bishop once asked him, \u201cWhy do you trouble yourself so much about the tops of the towers? After all, no one will ever see them.\u201d \u201cYour Grace,\u201d<\/i> replied Gaud\u00ed. \u201cThe angels will see them.<\/i>\u201d His faith in the Roman Catholic Church intensified towards the end of his life, with his living in a squalid room at Sagrada Fam\u00edlia, frantically attempting to finish his astonishingly masterpiece. Still dressed in his work clothes, he would venture out for walks in nature. In 1926 he was tragically run down by a streetcar. Gaud\u00ed desperately waved for assistance from passing vehicles, but was dismissed as a ragged beggar, and died shortly after. Today he is often times referred to by his nickname, \u201cGod\u2019s Architect.\u201d<\/p>\n

Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky \u2013 Coyoac\u00e1n, Mexico<\/h3>\n
\"the
It is essential that you purchase your tickets for the Museo Frida Kahlo day before, or you will face long and time consuming lines.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I am not sick. I am broken. But I am happy to be alive as long as I can paint.
\n<\/em>\u2013 Frida Kahlo<\/span><\/p>\n

Coyoac\u00e1n, Mexico was once a serene \u00a0village on the outskirts of Mexico City. The urban sprawl \u00a0of Mexico City reached Coyoac\u00e1n in the mid 20th century, but city fathers preserved the former village\u2019s historic center, maintaining its colonial layout, plazas, narrow streets and structures built from the 16th to the early 20th centuries. This is where Coyoac\u00e1n’s most popular destination rests: Museo Frida Kahlo. Born Magdalena Carmen Frieda Kahlo y Calder\u00f3n on July 6, 1907, the museum is housed in her place of birth, which now celebrates her life and works of art. Painted in vibrant cobalt-blue colors (known as the Blue House<\/em> locally) \u00a0the house is also was where she lived all of her life, and contains important paintings, including Viva la Vida<\/em>, Frida and Caesarean<\/em> and Portrait of my father Wilhelm Kahlo,\u00a0<\/em>along with canvases by husband and fellow communist, Diego Rivera. They were both heavily influenced by Mexicanidad<\/em>, a romantic nationalism that had developed in the aftermath of the 1910 Mexican Revolution. The Mexicanidad<\/em> movement’s mantra was\u00a0to challenge the “mindset of cultural inferiority” created by colonialism, placing special importance on indigenous cultures. The museum also displays Kahlo’s workspace, Mexican folk art<\/a>, pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs and memorabilia. Frida has become the poster child for Mexico Tourism as much for her work as well as for spiritedly overcoming the adversarial conditions of her life; childhood polio, a tragic streetcar accident which left her in a hospital for years, acceptance as an artist due to her gender, and the two tumultuous marriages with womanizer, Rivera.\u00a0 Long before the term ever existed, Frida Kahlo lived her life as an art form, even selecting her daily wear down to the smallest detail.<\/p>\n

\"Leon
Leon Trotsky\u2019s grandson, Esteban Volkov, conducts a private tour.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There are no absolute rules of conduct, either in peace or war.
\nEverything depends on circumstances.
\n<\/em>\u2013 Leon Trotsky<\/span>
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

The Leon Trotsky Museum is located just a few blocks away from the Museo Frida Kahlo. Trotsky was the second most important member of the original Russian Bolsheviks, and considered heir to Lenin. But was forced into exile,\u00a0 and then hunted by the tyrannical Josef Stalin regime after he forced his way into power upon the death of Lenin. Trotsky was given political asylum, sponsored by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. Along with his wife, he lived in the Kahlo house for a few years. A rumored affair, though, between Trotsky and Kahlo, led to the Trotskys\u00a0 relocating to a new fortress-life home with watchtowers, as protection from any assassination attempts by Stalin\u2019s agents, in which they knew would someday come.\u00a0 As I entered the museum I was told that I was to have a private tour by the museum\u2019s director. To my surprise, the museum director was none other than Trotsky\u2019s grandson, Esteban Volkov. A remarkably spry and dashing man in his early 90s with impeccable manners, Mr. Volkov had lived with his grandparents at age thirteen, and was wounded himself as a result of an earlier Stalin operative\u2019s failed machine gun assault. The bullet holes are still on the walls.\u00a0 He walked me through the museum, patiently explaining in detail the history of photos from Trotsky\u2019s lifetime, his participation in the Bolshevik Revolution, family tree, books and newspapers, and the backyard where he planted vegetables, tended to his rabbits and is buried. The centerpiece of the museums is Trotsky\u2019s study where his iconic spectacles, papers and books are left in the exact position on the very desk where he sat when murdered with an ice axe, by a Stalin assassin who had posed as a friend of the family. Mr. Volkov ultimately raised his own family in the house, and then turned it into a museum on the 50th anniversary of the assassination of Trotsky.<\/p>\n

The Barbary Apes\u00a0\u2013 Gibraltar<\/h3>\n
\"baby
When Paul Theroux observed a tourist brazenly poking a baby monkey while being fed by its mother, he concluded that the monkeys were more civilized than the laughing tourists. The mother monkey simply raised her hand, as if asking the tourist to stop, then disappeared with the baby behind a higher rock.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cThe establishment of the apes on Gibraltar should be twenty-four,
\nand every effort should be made to reach this number as soon as possible
\nand maintain it thereafter.\u201d
\n<\/em>\u2013 Winston Churchill<\/span><\/p>\n

Churchill was obsessed with the continuance of the Barbary Apes, fearing that British rule over the Rock of Gibraltar during WW2 would end if they disappeared, a catastrophe that he would not tolerate. In the early days of the war, Winston Churchill had visited Gibraltar, and was disturbed that the population had dwindled down to only seven Barbary Apes. He immediately instructed that five new females be sent to the Rock. Churchill was well aware of the Gibraltar Ape’s symbolic importance to the British people, and feared that the disappearance of the animals would have a detrimental effect on morale \u2013 which the British Empire needed plenty of when they stood alone against the Fascists in 1941.<\/p>\n

\"the
The British garrison was initially designed as protection from the Spanish and French.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Currently 300 Apes in five troops occupy the Upper Rock area of the Gibraltar Nature Reserve. Due to being tailless species, they are often mistakenly referred to as Barbary Apes or Rock Apes, but, technically speaking, they are actually macaques (Macaca sylvanus<\/em>). The cute little critters are inquisitive and have no fear of humans. Upon my arrival one jumped on the front of my car’s window shield, and curiously looked me straight in the eye. The biggest tourist casualty is there apprehension of cameras. Foraging for food, though, seems to be their main goal, and they are known to even traverse the capital city below. As a British Overseas Territory, the Rock features 32 miles of tunnels, initially designed as protection from Spanish and French forces in their attempt to take Gibraltar back from the British, when they were at their weakest during the American Revolution.\u00a0 At the early stages of what was to be a surprise attack, the monkeys were disturbed in the night and let out howls, alerting the British garrison to the upcoming enemy assault. This led to the popular saying, \u201cAs long as the Apes remain on the Rock, so will the British.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A pilgrimage is defined by Oxford Dictionary as (1) A journey to a holy place for religious reasons, or (2) Journey to a place that is connected with someone or something that you admire or respect.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":15265,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[2943,442,3381,50,3380,2629,1721,2462,3378,2933,1103,3379,241,3377,2463,2464],"class_list":["post-15716","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-travel","tag-antoni-gaudi","tag-architecture","tag-barbary-apes","tag-barcelona","tag-bolsheviks","tag-catalonia","tag-coyoacan","tag-dylan-thomas","tag-frida-kahlo","tag-gibraltar","tag-leon-trotsky","tag-mexican-art","tag-mexico","tag-pilgrimage","tag-swansea","tag-wales"],"yoast_head":"\nPilgrimages: Places I\u2019ll Remember - Traveling Archive<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Traveling Boy editor Ed Boitano lists his pilgrimages - 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