{"id":16139,"date":"2020-03-22T18:45:39","date_gmt":"2020-03-23T01:45:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=16139"},"modified":"2021-01-05T22:01:34","modified_gmt":"2021-01-06T06:01:34","slug":"pilgrimages-places-ill-remember-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/pilgrimages-places-ill-remember-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Pilgrimages: Places I\u2019ll Remember, Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"

This is the second installment of Ed Boitano\u2019s series on Pilgrimages. In the inaugural installment, Pilgrimages: Places I\u2019ll Remember<\/em><\/a>, Boitano covered Dylan Thomas<\/em> \u2013 Laugharne, Wales, Antoni Gaud\u00ed <\/em>\u2013 Barcelona, Catalonia, Frida Kahlo<\/em> & Leon Trotsky<\/em> \u2013 Coyoac\u00e1n, Mexico and The Barbary Apes<\/em>\u00a0\u2013 Gibraltar. Now quarantined at home due to the coronavirus, Boitano is doing a lot of remembering these days.<\/p>\n

Vincent van Gogh\u2019s Final Days in Auvers-sur-Oise<\/h2>\n
\"location
This was taken mid-April, not during the heat of the season when van Gogh painted Crows over Wheatfield at this exact spot.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ask the general populace to name a famous painter, and they\u2019d probably say Dutch painter, Vincent van Gogh. Today his paintings command staggering purchase prices, with his Portrait of Dr. Gachet<\/em>, painted the last year of his life in Auvers-sur-Oise, selling for 152 million dollars in today\u2019s currency.<\/p>\n

I finally caught up with up with\u00a0 van Gogh in the charming French village of Auvers-sur-Oise, just 16.9 miles by train and a world away from the riveting pulse of Paris<\/a>. This is where Van Gogh spent the final two-month of his life; a period of intense prolificacy, creating over eighty, almost violent paintings, and 64 sketches.\u00a0\u00a0 Many are considered masterpieces, such as Crows over Wheatfield<\/em>, Portrait of Dr. Gachet<\/em> and Church at Auvers<\/em>. I had journeyed there to walk the self-guided Vincent van Gogh Trail<\/em>.\u00a0 You simply follow the path where many of his works were painted, and then stop at posted landmarks, which feature a reproduction of one of his paintings, overlooking the exact place where he painted it. It\u2019s mesmerizing; you actually see what he saw when painting one of his many landscapes or village streets. I was surprised that not one of Van Gogh\u2019s original paintings was on display in Auvers-sur-Oise, but you can clearly feel his spiritual presence. You\u2019ll see the modest village houses, the town hall and the church Notre-Dame-de-l\u2019Assomption, pretty much unchanged since van Gogh painted them.<\/p>\n

\"Auberge
Left: Auberge Ravoux (often referred to as The House of Van Gogh) is where van Gogh spent all 70-days of his life in Auvers-sur-Oise. Right: No photos in room.<\/span> Photos courtesy of Deb Roskamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The pilgrimage continued with the much anticipated tour of van Gogh\u2019s modest attic room in Auberge Ravoux<\/a>\u00a0where he died from a self-afflicted gunshot wound. Often called The House of Van Gogh<\/em><\/a>, the room has remained vacant since his death; not because it was where van Gogh took his last breath, but due to the French superstition of never renting a room where someone has died. There was a sense of hushed reverence as our small group followed our guide up the sacred stairs. As we quietly assembled in the little room, I felt that I already knew this Spartan-like dwelling from Vincent\u2019s paintings; which along with his quarters in Arles, is one of the most famous rooms in art history. But to see it, smell it and feel it in person moved me to the depths of my soul. Our guide gave a heartfelt account of Vincent\u2019s last two days in the room; so heartfelt, that she actually wept.<\/p>\n

\"the
Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A final walk up a little hill leads to the cemetery where the unassuming graves of Vincent and his art dealer brother Theo, who had supported him most of his life, are buried side by side.<\/p>\n

PISA \u2013 Leaning Bell Tower of Pisa<\/h2>\n
\"Pisa\"
See if you can spot the Leaning Bell Tower of Pisa.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Deb Roskamp<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Yes, it really does lean. In fact, it started to lean during construction in 1178, before builders had even reached its third story. Over the next 800 years, it became clear that the 180 ft. white-marble cylinder wasn\u2019t just learning, but was actually falling at a rate of 3 ft. per year. This was due to an unstable foundation of shifting soft soil, fine sand and shells \u2013 an engineering debacle flawed from the beginning \u2013 which could not properly support the structure\u2019s weight. To compensate for the tilt, the next eight-stories were built slightly taller on the short side in an attempt to compensate for the lean. However, the weight of the extra floors caused the Romanesque-style tower to sink further and lean more. Because of this, the tower is curved. Numerous efforts throughout time have been made to restore the bell tower to a vertical symmetry. In 1964, the Italian government insisted on retaining the current tilt, due to the money-making role that the Tower played in promoting tourism to Pisa.\u00a0 Today, only groups of 30 are allowed inside at once, and are welcome to scale the 251 steps from the bottom to the top of the Pisa Tower. The Tower\u2019s bells have long been silenced as their movements could worsen the lean of the bell tower further.<\/p>\n

Throughout the years, we\u2019ve all seen endless photos of the Leaning Tower, but to witness it in person was a monumental occasions. I was unaware that the Tower stands on a pristine green-expanse inside the medieval walls of the Square of Miracles. The piazza is also shared by the white marbled Cathedral of Pisa, the Baptistery \u2013 famous for its acoustics, demonstrated by singers daily \u2013 and Capuano Monumental Cemetery, made with 53 shiploads of earth brought back from the Hill of Calvary in Jerusalem.<\/p>\n

Princess Grace in Monaco<\/h2>\n
\"Carry
Carry Grant & Kelly in her last film, 1955\u2019s To Catch a Thief; shot next door to Monaco on the French Riviera.<\/span> (PARAMOUNT PICTURES)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In 1956, Monaco\u2019s<\/a> Prince Rainier III married Hollywood Royalty in the name of 26-year-old Grace Patricia Kelly.\u00a0\u00a0 Her acting career and striking refined beauty had already made the daughter of a wealthy Philadelphia socialite family an international household name. She had appeared in John Ford\u2019s<\/a> Mogambo<\/a>;<\/em> \u00a0The Country Girl<\/a><\/em>, for which her deglamorized performance earned her an Academy Award for Best Actress <\/a>in the otherwise dismal film;\u00a0 High Noon<\/a><\/em>; \u00a0and three Alfred Hitchcock<\/a> masterpieces, Dial M for Murder<\/a><\/em>, Rear Window<\/a><\/em> and To Catch a Thief<\/a><\/em>. Prince Rainier, always desperate for money, met with billionaire shipping tycoon, Aristotle Onassis,\u00a0 who suggested the prince find a Hollywood beauty to marry. Aristotle believed the added media publicity would attract more investment opportunities and make the principality a greater alluring destination for tourists. Rainier jumped at the idea. His first choice was Marilyn Monroe, who\u00a0 laughed at the thought, but did jokingly say, \u201cGive me two-days alone with him and of course he\u2019ll want to marry me.\u201d<\/em> A meeting was arranged with Kelly while she was in the Riviera filming the last stages of To Catch a Thief<\/em>. It wasn\u2019t love at first sight for Kelly, but the prince was relentless, initiating a long correspondence by mail, which eventually led to their marriage. Rainier received a two-million dowry\u00a0 from Kelly\u2019s family for the union to proceed, insisted that Kelly take a fertility test, give up acting and banned the screening of all her movies in Monaco. The marriage was described as the wedding of the century. Following a long honeymoon cruise, Her Serene Highness Princess Grace devoted her life to raising three-children, and then founded the World Association of Friends of Children, based on her vision that every child, whatever their social, religious or cultural origins are, would have the capacity to live in dignity and security;\u00a0 and the Princess Grace Foundation, to support local artists and craftsmen. In 1982, tragedy struck when Princess Grace was driving her Range Rover down a steep road and suffered a minor stroke. She lost control of the vehicle which violently plunged 120 feet off a cliff.<\/p>\n

Princess Grace passed away the next night. Her death was a shock to the entire world, and her funeral, like that of Princess Diana, was watched by millions of people around the globe. With the death of Rainier in 2005, Prince Albert II assured the succession of the over 700-year-old House of Grimaldi.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This is the second installment of Ed Boitano\u2019s series on Pilgrimages. In the inaugural installment, Pilgrimages: Places I\u2019ll Remember, Boitano covered Dylan Thomas \u2013 Laugharne, Wales, Antoni Gaud\u00ed \u2013 Barcelona, Catalonia, Frida Kahlo & Leon Trotsky \u2013 Coyoac\u00e1n, Mexico and The Barbary Apes \u2013 Gibraltar. Now quarantined at home due to the coronavirus, Boitano is doing a lot of remembering these days.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":14309,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[3072,53,2827,29,3451,2823,3377,2934,2828,3452,3070],"class_list":["post-16139","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-travel","tag-auvers-sur-oise","tag-france","tag-grace-kelly","tag-italy","tag-leaning-tower-of-pisa","tag-monaco","tag-pilgrimage","tag-pisa","tag-prince-rainier-iii","tag-princess-grace","tag-vincent-van-gogh"],"yoast_head":"\nPilgrimages: Places I\u2019ll Remember, Part 2 - Traveling Archive<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"This is the 2nd installment of Ed Boitano\u2019s Pilgrimages series as he looks back at Vincent Van Gogh and Auvers-sur-Oise, Pisa and Grace Kelly and Monaco.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/pilgrimages-places-ill-remember-part-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Pilgrimages: Places I\u2019ll Remember, Part 2 - 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