{"id":18248,"date":"2020-06-25T20:33:35","date_gmt":"2020-06-26T03:33:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=18248"},"modified":"2020-09-02T19:02:28","modified_gmt":"2020-09-03T02:02:28","slug":"treasures-of-the-riviera-nayarit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/treasures-of-the-riviera-nayarit\/","title":{"rendered":"Treasures of the Riviera Nayarit"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"sandy
Sandy beaches and mile-long surfing waves fringe the coast of the Rivera Nayarit, a popular vacation destination for families and surfers.<\/span> Photo by \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

SAN BLAS, Mexico \u2013 When you\u2019re self-isolating at home, whiling away the hours scanning the internet for recipes, did you ever stumble across Mexico\u2019s most-watched television show, \u201cMaster Chef Mexico?\u201d How about the celebrity chef herself, Betty Vasquez, one of the show\u2019s three judges? The name didn\u2019t ring my bell, either. But when I searched online for \u201cfamous chefs Mexico,\u201d planning ahead for our upcoming trip to Puerto Vallarta, I was amazed to find Betty \u2013 and her restaurant, El Delfin \u2013 in San Blas, a couple of hours north on the Riviera Nayarit.<\/p>\n

\"San
San Blas\u2019s first parish church, built in the 1800s, now too expensive to repair, remains on the plaza in in central San Blas.<\/span> Photo courtesy of Riviera Nayarit Tourism.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Later on, when my partner Steve suggested that we spend an overnight exploring San Blas, I agreed, as long as it included dinner at Betty\u2019s. \u201cIt\u2019s only two, maybe three hours north of Puerto Vallarta<\/a> on Highway 200,\u201d said Sonia, the concierge who checked us into the Miraval Hotel, in Nuevo Vallarta. \u201cTake your time and look around. It\u2019s scenic all the way up the coast, with sandy beaches if you want to swim. We take our bathing suits and eat lunch at one of the villages. My favorite? In Sayulita, maybe, or San Pancho.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"woven
Mexico\u2019s many arts and crafts include woven fabrics, for sale here in Bucerias, on Banderas Bay, north of Puerto Vallarta.<\/span> Photo by Steve Haggerty \u00a9ColorWorld.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Thanks to my parents, inveterate travelers, Mexico was familiar country. But we\u2019d never explored the state of Nayarit or its spectacular western border, the Pacific coast. Leaving the PV cruise ship port and the airport behind, we crossed the border north into Nayarit, leaving the tourist world \u2013 crowded souvenir shops, shopping centers and tourist hotels \u2013 behind. Within minutes, the landscape gave way to open country, interrupted here and there by fields, jungle thickets, giant trees, crossroads with houses and an occasional village. According to Steve, who\u2019d done his homework, San Blas, population just 8707, was once an important port. At the mouth of a river, it was a source of fresh water, a necessity when, in the 1500s, Spain\u2019s \u201ctreasure ships,\u201d sailing northeast from the Philippines<\/a> laden with silks and spices, made landfall. Repurposed as an official naval base in the mid-1700s, it was the port from which the Spanish empire, threatened by Russia\u2019s settlements in Northern California and Alaska<\/a>, sent a company of soldiers and colonists north to build the missions, led by Father Junipero Serra.<\/p>\n

\"Our
The bones of San Blas\u2019 oldest church, Our Lady of the Rosary, built on San Basilio hill in 1769 and a romantic destination for weddings, need a roof, door and windows to come back to life. Memorialized by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, in his poem \u201cthe bells of San Blas,\u201d its San Blas\u2019 most popular tourist attraction.<\/span> Photo by \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our first brief stop, in Buceritas, was just long enough to explore the arts and crafts market on Lazaro Cardenas Avenue, a block from the beach, and to grab a ten-minute dip in the ocean. Passing a half-dozen Canadians retirees, lounging on the sand, they stopped us long enough to offer a cold beer. \u201cWe come every winter for three months,\u201d they said. \u201cJoin us, it\u2019s marvelous.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"hats,
Mexico\u2019s arts and crafts include hats, fabrics, and leather belts. Bucerias, Banderas Bay, north of Puerto Vallarta.<\/span> Photo by \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We couldn\u2019t miss the next stop, at Sayulita, one of Mexico\u2019s historic \u201cmagic towns.\u201d Popular with tourists and famous for miles of surfing beach and endless waves, Sayulita\u2019s narrow cobblestone streets are shaded by trees and lined by art galleries, craft shops, cafes, ice cream vendors, bars, cottages and sheds, all crammed onto every buildable inch. Following mobs of shoppers, mostly Mexican vacationers, we found a beachside caf\u00e9, ordered ice tea and waded in the waves.<\/p>\n

\"shopping
Travelers shopping on the Riviera Nayarit\u2019s cobblestone streets \u2013 in Bucerias, San Pancho and Sayulita (seen here) \u2013 should remember to wear good shoes.<\/span> Photo by \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Then it was on to San Pancho \u2013 officially, San Francisco \u2013 where iguanas live in the trees shading the central plaza and where I bought a primitive painting from a sidewalk artist.<\/p>\n

\"local
Local painter Marco and his dad paint local scenes on paper they make at home and sell them for about $10 at street markets in San Pancho (San Francisco).<\/span> Photo by \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld.<\/center><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cMy father paints all of these,\u201d said Marco, flipping through half-dozen scenes, all different. \u201cHe makes the paper, too,\u201d he explained, showing me the ragged edges. Colored flags strung between the rooftops led the way to the ocean and Las Palmas Restaurant where we sat under an umbrella on the beach front, watched the surfers and ordered lunch. Overwhelmed by a platter piled with six kinds of tacos and a cold pint, an hour ticked away in no time. By the time we finally reached San Blas the sun was hanging over the ocean, reflected in shivery streaks.<\/p>\n

As we circled the plaza, crowded with mothers pushing baby strollers, old men playing checkers and skinny kids chasing each other around the fountain, I caught a whiff of barbecued pork. Street food! A wave of nostalgia made my heart thump and I felt like a ten-year-old, traveling with my parents. Still, San Blas is unlikely to ever be on someone\u2019s bucket list. Simplicity, its greatest charm, is also its only charm. If you\u2019ve seen Director Alfonso Cuaron\u2019s film \u201cRoma,\u201d the story of ordinary families coping with life in Mexico in the 1970s, you know what I mean. As we pulled into the gas station, the attendant, a rangy fellow in cowboy boots ambled over to the pump. \u201cIf you want to taste real Nayarit cooking,\u201d he said, glancing at our tourist map, spread out on the dashboard, \u201ctry the Hotel Garza Canela, that way,\u201d he said, pointing toward the ocean. \u201cThey have a restaurant there and a pool.\u201d \u00a0Was it Betty Vasquez\u2019s restaurant? He wasn\u2019t sure.<\/p>\n

\"Hotel
The Hotel Garza Canela, inside a private, walled hacienda, is surrounded by five acres of shade trees and gardens. Located in San Blas.<\/span> Photo by \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Heading for the hotel, a large, old-fashioned building behind a wall, we found the door, booked a room for the night, and asked about the restaurant, the El Delfin. \u201cIt\u2019s right there, through the door, across the patio,\u201d said Rosa, the desk clerk, pointing the way. \u201cIt\u2019s still early, so you\u2019ll be the only ones there.\u201d\u00a0 Stepping outside, I realized that we were behind a wall in a multi-acre, traditional, colonial-style hacienda, with a spacious patio and garden, leafy trees scattered about and two or three other buildings. A swimming pool was visible in the distance, beyond the door to the restaurant.<\/p>\n

\"Betty
Betty Vasquez, at home in her own kitchen, sets aside three days to prepare a holiday family treat, \u201cbacalao al pil pil,\u201d a traditional Basque dish.<\/span> Photo by \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld.
<\/center><\/center><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cCome in, come in, we\u2019re open,\u201d said a woman standing at the open door, her brown hair twisted into a bun. \u201cMy father spent hours out here, weeding and watering,\u201d she said, smiling. \u201cHe loved this garden. Come in, I\u2019m Betty.\u201d she said, holding the door. I was so thrilled that I couldn\u2019t think of what to say, but she shook hands and looked pleased. \u201cYou\u2019ve come all this way, just to eat?\u201d she asked, showing us to a table. \u201cI\u2019m so glad you\u2019re here.\u201d By this time, I was bursting with curiosity. \u201cWhat do you think?\u201d I asked Steve, after we\u2019d looked all around, ordered from the menu, and she\u2019d disappeared into the kitchen. \u201cHer bio says she studied at the Cordon Bleu, in Paris<\/a>.\u201d Twenty minutes later the dinner arrived, and we wielded our forks. \u201cThis is delicious,\u201d said Steve, savoring a bite of baked pork loin, with a fruit and chipotle sauce. \u201cHere, try it,\u201d he said, handing over a couple of bites. \u201cDid you order curried shrimp?\u201d he asked. \u201cAm I tasting coconut milk?\u201d\u00a0 We were scanning the dessert menu when she returned with coffee, and to my surprise she sat down to talk.<\/p>\n

\"El
El Delfin Restaurant.<\/span> Photo by \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cTell me, will you be here long?\u201d said Betty. \u201cI\u2019ve loved traveling in Europe and overseas, and I love the year I spent in France. But this is our family home. My roots are here in San Blas. Do you have time to tour? You must see the fort on the hill.\u201d I grabbed my pen and began to scribble. Visit the fort on San Basilico Hill. Check ocean view and look for big white rock in ocean. Huichol people call it Tatei Haramara, the sea goddess. Walk through old church next to fort, La Nuestra Senora del Rosario. Swim at Las Islitas beach, on Matanchen Bay. Bring bug spray. Highlight is guided boat tour on Santiago River estuary in La Tovara National Park, with birds and crocodiles. \u201cYou know,\u201d said Betty, pausing to think, \u201cWhy don\u2019t I show you around? I\u2019m going out of town tomorrow afternoon, but I\u2019m free in the morning. We\u2019re filming the next season of MasterChef Mexico and I have to be there. \u00a0We have three judges, and I\u2019m one of them.\u201d<\/p>\n

After touring with Betty, who pointed out her favorite shop, the vegetable market and the ice cream shop she loved as a teenager, she left and we headed to the beach for the afternoon. The next morning, on her advice, we joined a boat tour through the La Tovara Park bird sanctuary, guided by naturalist Francisco Garcia. I was prepared to be as bored that morning as I\u2019d been thrilled the night before. That is, until it became another one of the best adventures we didn\u2019t plan. Gliding quietly upstream on the estuary, spotting rare birds at every turn; winding among the mangroves until the estuary met the river; watching the clear water curl around the muddy water and the sun-loving flowers crowding the banks; La Tovara Park was as enchanting as El Delfin dinner was unforgettable.<\/p>\n

\"black-crowned
Sightings of black-crowned night herons, seen here in La Tovara Park, are rare. Usually found near water, sitting immobile on bushes or rocks and perfectly camouflaged, they\u2019re difficult to spot.<\/span> Photo by \u00a9Steve Haggerty\/ColorWorld.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Just the Facts:<\/h3>\n

Touring the Riviera Nayarit<\/a><\/p>\n

Hotel Garza Canela<\/a>: rooms for 1-6 US $90-$275.<\/p>\n

Entrees at El Delfin restaurant: US $10-$25<\/p>\n

From Puerto Vallarta by car: 79 miles, 2-3 hrs, Hwy 200 North, then State 16.<\/p>\n

From Guadalajara: 162 miles, 3-4 hours.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When you\u2019re self-isolating at home, whiling away the hours scanning the internet for recipes, did you ever stumble across Mexico\u2019s most-watched television show, \u201cMaster Chef Mexico?\u201d How about the celebrity chef herself, Betty Vasquez, one of the show\u2019s three judges?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":60,"featured_media":18246,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[56,3875,3878,3876,3882,3883,241,3877,540,3873,3874,3881,3879,3880],"class_list":["post-18248","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-travel","tag-arts","tag-betty-vasquez","tag-buceritas","tag-el-delfin","tag-hotel-garza-canela","tag-la-tovara-park","tag-mexico","tag-puerto-vallarta","tag-restaurant","tag-riviera-nayarit","tag-san-blas","tag-san-pancho","tag-sayulita","tag-shops"],"yoast_head":"\nTreasures of the Riviera Nayarit, Mexico: Traveling Boy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Travel writer Anne Cooke meets celebrity chef Betty Vasquez of \u201cMaster Chef Mexico" at her restaurant, El Delfin, in San Blas, Riviera Nayarit.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/treasures-of-the-riviera-nayarit\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Treasures of the Riviera Nayarit, Mexico: Traveling Boy\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Travel writer Anne Cooke meets celebrity chef Betty Vasquez of \u201cMaster Chef Mexico" at her restaurant, El Delfin, in San Blas, Riviera Nayarit.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/treasures-of-the-riviera-nayarit\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Traveling Archive\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2020-06-26T03:33:35+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2020-09-03T02:02:28+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/Rivera-Nayarit-Coast.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"850\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"557\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Anne Z. 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