{"id":1887,"date":"2017-09-17T18:32:08","date_gmt":"2017-09-17T18:32:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=1887"},"modified":"2017-12-21T00:42:46","modified_gmt":"2017-12-21T00:42:46","slug":"exploring-great-houses-castles-gardens-of-irelands-ancient-east","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/exploring-great-houses-castles-gardens-of-irelands-ancient-east\/","title":{"rendered":"Exploring Great Houses, Castles & Gardens of Ireland\u2019s Ancient East"},"content":{"rendered":"

Abroad with Beverly Cohn<\/p>\n

PART 1:\u00a0 DAYS 1-2<\/h2>\n

Question:<\/strong>\u00a0 How many trips should a travel writer take to Ireland<\/strong>?
\nAnswer:<\/strong>\u00a0 As many as you\u2019re lucky enough to receive.\u00a0 Just as though I carried around a four-leaf clover in my wallet, I was invited by Tourism Ireland<\/strong> to participate in my fourth press trip to the Emerald Isle,<\/strong> this time to explore Ireland\u2019s Ancient East,<\/strong> an area that I had not covered before.<\/p>\n

Flying to Ireland<\/strong><\/a> is now much easier as you fly directly to Dublin <\/strong>from LAX <\/strong>whereas before the gateway city was New York<\/strong> which meant flying out of JFK.<\/strong>\u00a0 You had to disembark, retrieve your luggage, put it on a conveyer belt, and then catch the connecting flight. That route was stressful as there was always the possibility of missing your connection.\u00a0 Now it\u2019s as easy as drinking a glass of their famous Guinness. The Aer Lingus<\/strong> flight crew couldn\u2019t be more cheerful, making the flight quite comfortable. The meeting place at Dublin Airport<\/strong> was in front of a large Yellow Sculpture in Terminal 2 Arrivals Hall<\/strong>.\u00a0 Because of its imposing size, one simply could not miss the rendezvous point.\u00a0 As is the Irish <\/strong>character, I was met by a smiling young man who whisked me away to the O\u2019Callaghan Hotel, St. Stephens Green<\/strong><\/a> where I was able to get a good night\u2019s sleep before the official start of the press trip the next day.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Ireland\u2019s Ancient East. Courtesy Photo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The theme of this trip was Great Houses, Castles and Gardens of <\/strong>Ireland\u2019s Ancient East<\/strong>, which stretches from County Monaghan<\/strong>, to the east of County Cork<\/strong>, excluding Dublin.<\/strong> It is the land where Stone Age<\/strong> astronomers harnessed the sun, where saints lived and died, where Vikings<\/strong> built cities, and Norman<\/strong> knights defended their castles.\u00a0 Lords <\/strong>and Ladies<\/strong> lived in opulent splendor, while hardship forced many to flee or die.\u00a0 Over the next few days we would visit historic sites and learn about seminal moments in Irish<\/strong> history.<\/p>\n

DAY 1<\/strong>:\u00a0 Bright and early the next morning, journalists from around the world converged in the hotel lobby to begin our adventure.\u00a0 The countries represented included, Austria<\/strong>, The<\/strong> Netherlands, Germany, India, Denmark, Gulf States, Belgium,<\/strong> and Spain.<\/strong> I wanted to avoid discussing the dismal state of American<\/strong> politics, but Trump<\/strong> was the focus of many discussions.\u00a0 \u201cHow could someone like that be elected president of the United States<\/strong> and leader of the Free World<\/strong>?\u201d\u00a0 All I could say that I was as dismayed as they were and begged them not to judge Americans<\/strong> harshly, reminding them that Hillary Clinton<\/strong> won the majority of votes.\u00a0 Luckily, since there were so many astonishing experiences over the next few days, those discussions began to taper off and conversations centered on our experience du jour.<\/p>\n

\"P.J.
P.J. Lanigan, member of the champion Kilkenny Hurling Club. Photo: Beverly Cohn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

With Tanya<\/strong> and Rory<\/strong> as our guides, we were off in our van to Kilkenny<\/a>.
\n<\/strong>During the drives from one destination to the next, Tanya<\/strong> would regale us with interesting factoids and Irish<\/strong> words such as “sl\u00e1inte,”<\/strong> which means cheers, or \u201ccraic\u201d<\/strong> which means fun.\u00a0 The official language is Irish <\/strong>so all government documents are in both Irish<\/strong> and English<\/strong>.\u00a0 There is a reason the Irish\u00a0<\/strong>countryside is so lush and that\u2019s because it rains a great deal but instead of referring to it as \u201crain,\u201d it is dubbed \u201cliquid sunshine,\u201d<\/strong> a much more poetic definition.\u00a0 Driving through the cities or countryside, one similarity is the sparkling windows and delicate lace curtains peeking through the shining windows.\u00a0 It reminded me to call in a window washer as soon as I returned to California<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Our first stop was for lunch at the famous The<\/strong> Marble Bar<\/strong> but before food was served, P.J. Lanigan<\/strong> regaled us with stories about Ireland\u2019s<\/strong> national sport Hurling<\/strong>, an outdoor team game of ancient Gaelic<\/strong> and Irish<\/strong> origin.\u00a0 Older than the recorded history of Ireland <\/strong>the game is thought to predate Christianity<\/strong>. The sport came to Ireland <\/strong>with the Celts <\/strong>and has been an Irish <\/strong>pastime for at least 2000<\/strong> years, but has been legal only since 1984<\/strong>.\u00a0 P.J.,<\/strong> who is a member of the most successful team in Ireland,<\/strong> explained that every town and village has a Hurling<\/strong> Club<\/strong> and that you play where you were born. The game is overseen by the GAA (Gaelic Athletic<\/strong> Association,)<\/strong> which has a membership of 2,000<\/strong> clubs. There is a similar game for women called Camogie<\/strong>.\u00a0 Lanigan <\/strong>explained that Hurling<\/strong> is an international sport with 34<\/strong> Hurling <\/strong>teams in New York<\/strong> and several in Santa Monica.\u00a0<\/strong>With the sport being part of the Irish DNA<\/strong>, by age four, children are given baby Hurleys<\/strong> with which to begin to practice. Apparently, talks on Hurling<\/strong> are very popular tourist attractions so put The Marble Bar<\/strong> on your travel itinerary.<\/p>\n

\"exterior
L: The original Kilkenny Anglo-Norman stone castle was built during the first decade of the 13th century. R: The interior of one of Kilkenny Castle’s many opulent rooms. Photos: Beverly Cohn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"the
The bucolic gardens of Kilkenny Castle. Photo: Beverly Cohn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a traditional Irish<\/strong> lunch, we were off to explore Kilkenny,<\/strong> once the medieval capital of Ireland<\/strong> and home to a collection of historic landmarks.\u00a0 We were to see the sights of Kilkenny\u2019s Medieval Mile,<\/strong> beginning with Kilkenny Castle<\/strong><\/a>.\u00a0 The original Anglo-Norman<\/strong> stone castle was built during the first decade of the 13th<\/sup> century<\/strong>.\u00a0\u00a0 Later, it became the principal Irish<\/strong> residence of the powerful Butler<\/strong> family for almost 600 <\/strong>years when in 1967 Arthur, 6th<\/sup> Marquess of Ormonde<\/strong> gave it to the people of Kilkenny<\/strong> for a token payment of (\u00a3)50.<\/strong>\u00a0 The grounds are quite spectacular and offer perfect photo opportunities.\u00a0 This sign of the times was posted:\u00a0 Please Note:\u00a0 The Use of Drones is Not Permitted at Kilkenny Castle.<\/em><\/p>\n

To discover more of this city\u2019s hidden treasures, buy a Medieval Mile Pass<\/strong> for only \u20ac39.<\/strong> This will give you access to many sites and buried secrets in its 800<\/strong>-year history. Some of those sights include Kilkenny Castle, Rothe House<\/strong>, Medieval Mile<\/strong> <\/a>Museum, <\/strong>and Smithwick\u2019s Experience<\/strong>. Also available is the Kilkenny Ghost Tour<\/strong>, which will introduce you to the resident ghosts or if you enjoy sight seeing by train, there is the Kilkenny Road Train Tours<\/strong> starting at only (\u00a3)8.<\/strong>\u00a0 For you athletes, there is Golf, Footgolf,<\/strong> and Rugby Golf<\/strong> at Pockocke Golf Center<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Our day had been a fascinating one and much to our delight our next stop was to visit Smithwick’s Ale Experience Visitor Centre<\/a>.\u00a0 <\/strong>This is the original site where beer was brewed from the 1700s<\/strong> until 2014<\/strong>. \u00a0Some of the original rooms involved in the brewing process has a hologram of a person giving pointers on the different aspects of the brewing process, ranging from grains, hops, yeast, water, fermentation, and equipment used in producing a \u201cpint.\u201d\u00a0 At the end of the tour, we were treated to a variety of beers all with distinctly different flavors.<\/p>\n

\"young
A young lady briefs us on the history of Kilkenny’s Smithwick’s Brewery. Photo: Beverly Cohn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our exciting day was capped off by an equally exciting evening of music and dinner.\u00a0Kyteler\u2019s Inn<\/strong><\/a>, Kilkenny\u2019s<\/strong> oldest pub, is famous for having its guests play the traditional Irish <\/strong>drum called the \u201cBodhran.\u201d<\/strong>\u00a0 Those of us who were brave volunteered to be in the drum circle and before we started banging way in guided\u00a0 patterns, it was explained to us that the legend of drumming dates back to the Celts,<\/strong> who would drum before going into battle.\u00a0 This is a fun experience you definitely want to put on your Ireland <\/strong>vacation. Following drumming, dinner, lively conversations and a ton of \u201ccraic,\u201d<\/strong> we headed to The River Court Hotel<\/strong><\/a> where we would spend the night.\u00a0 Tomorrow promised to be another packed day of adventures and a good night\u2019s sleep was of the utmost of importance.<\/p>\n

DAY 2:<\/strong>\u00a0 After a good night\u2019s rest and a delicious buffet breakfast, we were off to\u00a0Jerpoint Park<\/a> \u2013 Lost Town of St. Nicholas<\/strong> \u2013 <\/strong>located outside Thomastown,<\/strong> County<\/strong> Kilkenny.<\/strong>\u00a0 Founded in the 12th<\/sup> <\/strong>century, this was once a bustling town, access to which was a toll bridge on the River Nore<\/strong>, the fastest running river in Europe.<\/strong>\u00a0 The town was thought to have fourteen taverns, more than enough to quench the thirst of the inhabitants who lived in the 27 <\/strong>homes.\u00a0 Power was generated by two water wheels servicing the courthouse, woolen mill, a tannery and a brewery.<\/p>\n

\"owner
L: Standing in front of a map of Jerpoint Park, owner Joe O’Connell points out some of the unearthed treasures. Photo: Beverly Cohn. R: Following a tour through the exquisite gardens of Kilkenny’s Woodstock Gardens and Aboretum, we were treated to an afternoon snack at the beautiful tearoom. (That\u2019s me.) Photo: Angel Varela Pena<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This historic site is managed by Maeve<\/strong> and her husband, a most entertaining 73-year-old Joe O\u2019Connell<\/strong>, who served as our guide.\u00a0 He had retired from his business but decided he didn\u2019t like not being busy, so he bought this property not knowing the hidden historic treasures he would eventually unearth. \u00a0As we wandered through the grounds, he regaled us with fascinating stories about the past. Aided in his walking with the use of a stick called a Shillelagh<\/strong>, he took us through the ancient cemetery pointing out the various graves where St. Nicholas,<\/strong> known as the patron saint of prostitutes, might be buried. \u00a0Joe<\/strong> also explained that for easy identification, the shape of each headstone was particular to each family.\u00a0 This informative walk back in time was capped off by a fascinating demonstration of his award-winning sheep herding.\u00a0 Joe’s Sheepdog,<\/strong> a highly intelligent Border Collie<\/strong>, is trained to herd sheep and geese and understands Joe\u2019s multiple hand signals telling him which way to move the flock.\u00a0 It\u2019s quite amazing to see how precisely in tune they are with each other.<\/p>\n

After a sinfully sugary snack, we were off again, this time to Woodstock Gardens and<\/strong> Aboretum,<\/strong> in Kilkenny\u2019s Inistioge County<\/strong>.\u00a0 The gardens date back to 1840<\/strong> and have been almost totally restored to reflect that period.\u00a0 Head gardener John<\/strong> Delaney<\/strong> walked us through this idyllic setting where we saw a walled garden, terraced garden, yew walk, Monkey Puzzle <\/strong>and Noble Fir Avenues,<\/strong> named for the plants and trees growing in those locations.\u00a0 With a sudden downpour, it was fun to take refuge in one of the gardeners\u2019 sheds where the fragrant aromas from the plants and trees delighted our sense of smell.\u00a0 When the rain finally subsided, we headed to the tearoom for a delicious snack and were off again.<\/p>\n

\"a
L: The Passengers\u2019 Contract Ticket – either a ticket to America or a death sentence. R: The Emigrant Flame, lit with a spark from President John F. Kennedy\u2019s Eternal Flame, is a memorial to the Irish diaspora. Photo: Beverly Cohn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"costumed
A costumed enactor talks about living under the unthinkable, unsanitary conditions, which resulted in many people dying during the crossing to America. Photo: Beverly Cohn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a short drive, we arrived in New Ross,<\/strong> in County Wexford<\/strong> for our visit to the reconstructed Dunbrody Famine Ship<\/strong> or The Irish Emigrant Experience.<\/strong>\u00a0 The cramped living quarters were difficult on the senses as it was damp with an unpleasant dank odor.\u00a0 It was hard to imagine that about 200<\/strong> people, filling 40<\/strong> bunk beds, lived under those conditions for six to eight weeks. They were allowed topside only to cook and received three quarts of drinking water daily.\u00a0 Many people died during the crossing due to the oppressive unsanitary conditions. The heart-breaking stories of famine were re-enacted by actors dressed in period costumes.\u00a0 It did give one a sensory taste of what these people endured to get to America.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Catherine
Topping off yet another exciting day, Catherine and renowned Celebrity Master Chef Kevin Dundon, proprietors of the luxurious 1830\u2019s Dunbrody Country House Hotel & Restaurant located in Dunbrody Park, hosted an extravagant dinner prepared by the chef himself. Photo: Beverly Cohn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Life is about balance so we went from the tragically difficult to the wonderfully sublime as we were to have dinner at the luxurious 1830\u2019s Dunbrody Country House Hotel & Restaurant<\/a> located<\/strong> in Dunbrody Park.<\/strong>\u00a0 It is owned by Catherine<\/strong> and Celebrity MasterChef Kevin Dundon,<\/strong> who also runs the Dunbrody Cookery School<\/strong>.\u00a0 The property is nestled on 300<\/strong> acres of parklands on the Hook Peninsula<\/strong>.\u00a0 Kevin<\/strong> is one of Ireland\u2019s<\/strong> most famous chefs and has been a guest on many television food shows around the world.\u00a0 He prepared an outstanding meal for us consisting of pan-fried Kilmore<\/strong> Quay<\/strong> Scallops<\/strong> with citrus salad and garden herbs; roasted Ros\u00e9 Veal Rib;<\/strong> and Braised Shoulder<\/strong> with port sauce with gratin dauphinois.\u00a0 The meal was topped off with a garden rhubarb and vanilla rice pudding.\u00a0 We ate, drank and were very merry and looked forward to the next day which promised more exciting adventures and more of Ireland\u2019s<\/strong> famous exquisite cuisine.<\/p>\n

Stay tuned for Part 2 for more Ireland adventures including a visit to the famous Hook Lighthouse, two stunning gardens, and surprise revelations. <\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Abroad with Beverly Cohn PART 1:\u00a0 DAYS 1-2 Question:\u00a0 How many trips should a travel writer take to Ireland? Answer:\u00a0 As many as you\u2019re lucky enough to receive.\u00a0 Just as though I carried around a four-leaf clover in my wallet, I was invited by Tourism Ireland to participate in my fourth press trip to the …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":25,"featured_media":1885,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[315,64,301,317,138,319,318,316],"class_list":["post-1887","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-travel","tag-ancient-east","tag-castles","tag-gardens","tag-hurling","tag-ireland","tag-irish-emigratioin","tag-jerpoint-park","tag-kilkenny"],"yoast_head":"\nExploring Great Houses, Castles & Gardens of Ireland\u2019s Ancient East<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Bev Cohn explores the great houses, castles and gardens of Ireland\u2019s Ancient East on heer fourth visit to the Emerald Isle.\" \/>\n<meta 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