{"id":19156,"date":"2020-08-15T17:45:35","date_gmt":"2020-08-16T00:45:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=19156"},"modified":"2020-12-28T01:05:22","modified_gmt":"2020-12-28T09:05:22","slug":"memories-of-montreal-going-to-france-without-french-prices","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/memories-of-montreal-going-to-france-without-french-prices\/","title":{"rendered":"Memories of Montr\u00e9al: Going to France without French Prices"},"content":{"rendered":"

I first visited Montr\u00e9al over fifteen years ago, and from the second I arrived in this culturally vibrant and international city, I knew I would return often. On each visit to the city, there were always new sights and pleasures to discover, but there were also certain attractions and experiences that have become almost mandatory pilgrimages. Yes, there is much to see and do in Montr\u00e9al, and these are among my favorite things to do each visit.<\/p>\n

\"Montreal
Montr\u00e9al seen from the vantage point of Mount Royal.<\/span> PHOTO COURTESY OF JOHN LIAN via WIKIMEDIA COMMONS \/ CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Mount Royal and Montr\u00e9al<\/h3>\n

In 1535, French explorer, Jacques Cartier, climbed a small mountain, which overlooked the St. Lawrence River<\/a> in Upper Canada and gave it the name, Le Mont Royal. <\/em>Cartier was the first European to navigate the St. Lawrence River, and, along with his explorations of the Canada\u2019s Atlantic coast, laid France\u2019s claim to North America. Cartier is also credited with naming Canada, which stems from the Huron-Iroquois word kanata<\/em>, meaning village or settlement. As Montr\u00e9al\u2019s small trading post grew due to its strategic setting on the river, the mountain became the symbol of the city and eventually its name. A wooden cross, now made of steel grinders and 158 spotlights, was erected. The slopes of the mountain were gradually incorporated into residential properties, but city fathers established a park on the very top for the world to enjoy.\u00a0 This is where my journey begins each arrival, with an easy climb to the top of the mountain for sweeping views of this bilingual city of over four million people, the fourth-largest French-speaking city the world. Who’s Number 1:\u00a0 Why that\u2019s Kinshasa in the Democratic Republic of Congo, who has now edged out Paris<\/a> as the world\u2019s number one French-speaking city.<\/p>\n

\"Old
The cobblestone streets of Old Montr\u00e9al.<\/span> PHOTOS COURTESY OF DEB ROSKAMP.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Old Montr\u00e9al<\/h3>\n

Located between the St. Lawrence River and the downtown center, the cobblestone streets of Old Montr\u00e9al is an essential must-see attraction. Established in 1642, the French settlement was once a fortified town and the birthplace of the city proper.\u00a0 Best explored on foot, this area of graceful stone buildings is worth visiting any season, but the real<\/em> secret is to plan a trip the last weekend in August when the Pointe-\u00e0-Calli\u00e8re,<\/em> the Montr\u00e9al Museum of Archaeology and History<\/em>, recreates an 18th-century public market. You will see locals dressed in folkloric Quebecois costumes, stalls with regional food items, demonstrations by craftspeople, musicians and, even a military camp and marching band.<\/p>\n

\"Notre
Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours Chapel (The Sailor’s Church).<\/span> PHOTOS COURTESY OF DEB ROSKAMP.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours Chapel<\/h3>\n

Montr\u00e9al is a city of cathedrals, and for my first trip to the city my plan was to walk from one church to the next, never knowing what experience awaited me around each corner. While wandering on the edge of Old Montr\u00e9al, I stumbled upon Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours Chapel<\/em>, known as The Sailor’s Church<\/em> due to its proximity to the Old Port. I was quite moved by the statue of a woman atop its dome, which seemed to reach out to the river. Upon closer inspection I realize that the statue was Our Lady of the Harbour,<\/em> made famous by Leonard Cohen in his song, Suzanne.<\/em> The church also features an observation tower with remarkable views of Old Montr\u00e9al and the St. Lawrence, and a museum, which includes artifacts pre-dating the arrival of the New France colonists in 1642. Admission to the chapel is free.<\/p>\n

\"Jean
Just after the World War II, the greatest wave of Italian immigration occurred in Montr\u00e9al, where many settled around the Madonna della Difesa Church and the Jean-Talon Market.<\/span> PHOTO COURTESY OF JEANGAGNON via WIKIMEDIA COMMONS \/ CC BY-SA 3.0<\/a>.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Little Italy<\/h3>\n

Coming from a Northern Italian ancestry, I\u2019m always drawn to Italian communities. Montr\u00e9al\u2019s Little Italy<\/em> (Piccola Italia<\/em>) is the second largest (after Toronto) in Canada. The community is filled with Italian caf\u00e9s, restaurants and bars, specialty food shops, cultural landmarks, and Jean-Talon Market,<\/em> Montr\u00e9al\u2019s most vibrant open-air food area. Vendors sell flowers, and locals play bocce at nearby Parc Dante.<\/em> Also located there is Madonna della Difesa Church<\/em>, one of the most important landmarks in the area. An insider secret is the fresco situated above the High Altar, shows a virile Benito Mussolini astride a horse, commemorating his signing of the Latern Treaty. In 1929 he was still pretty much regarded as a good guy among Little Italy\u2019s<\/em> community.<\/p>\n

\"Mount
Mount Royal Cemetery is a National Historic Site.<\/span> PHOTO COURTESY OF DEB ROSKAMP.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Mount Royal Cemetery<\/h3>\n

I\u2019ve never been one attracted to the morbid, but these 165 acres, located on the north slope of Mount Royal, are worth exploring both for their beauty and sense of history. Founded in 1852, and now a National Historic Site,<\/em> the setting is almost romantic with its large green spaces, monumental headstones and crosses from the Victorian era.\u00a0 Buried at the cemetery include John Molson, Molson Beer industrialist and benefactor of numerous Montr\u00e9al institutions, John Abbott, 3rd Canadian Prime Minister, other Confederation Fathers, iconic hockey players \u2014 remember, hockey was invented in Canada \u2014\u00a0and even victims of the Titanic. Leonard Cohen lies at rest atop Mount Royal, buried beside his parents, grandparents and great-grandparents in the cemetery of the congregation with which he maintained a lifelong connection. Historical guided tours are available to learn about the life of some of the other famous figures that are buried in the cemetery.<\/p>\n

Underground Montreal<\/h3>\n

Yes, the winter months are long and cold, but for Montr\u00e9alers there is an 18.5 miles underground city of malls, food courts, office complexes, hotels, apartments, and Metro stops. It\u2019s not even necessary to wear a coat. It is unique for a city that so proudly preserves it past to have something so modern, and I\u2019ve always enjoyed strolling its maze of tunnels, corridors, escalators, and concourses. Later, I learned that Houston, Texas has an underground mall as well, modeled after Montreal\u2019s. But this was designed for much needed protection from the blistering Texas summer sun and its humidity.<\/p>\n

\"John
An archival photo of John Lennon and Yoko Ono in 1969\u2019s Bed-in for Peace in Montr\u00e9al.<\/span> PHOTO COURTESY OF ERIC KOCH \/ ANEFO, via WIKIMEDIA COMMONS \/ CC01.0<\/a>.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

John Lennon and Yoko Ono Suite 1742<\/h3>\n

Located in the famous Fairmont Queen Elizabeth Hotel, this one-bedroom\u00a0suite was the site of the legendary 1969 Bed-in for Peace <\/em>in Montr\u00e9al, where John and Yoko recorded the song Give Peace a Chance<\/em>.\u00a0 Guests singing along included\u00a0Timothy Leary, Petula Clark, Tommy Smothers and whoever happened to be\u00a0present in the room.\u00a0The\u00a0living room and bedroom\u00a0feature memorabilia composed of press articles, framed gold records and pictures of the famous couple. The suite is available for lodging and can also be rented for parties.\u00a0 Sometimes I will only make a pilgrimage to the room\u2019s exterior, just to see the plaque on the door.<\/p>\n

\"St.-Viateur
The flagship St.-Viateur Bagel\u2019s, Montreal bagels and Schwartz\u2019s legendary hand carved smoked meat sandwich.<\/span> LEFT: PHOTO COURTESY OF 4NET VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS \/ CC BY 3.0<\/a>; TOP RIGHT: PHOTO COURESY OF GARYPERLMAN AT ENGLISH WIKIPEDIA, PUBLIC DOMAIN; BOTTOM RIGHT: PHOTO COURTESY OF CHENSIYUAN VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS \/ CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Montr\u00e9al Bagels<\/h3>\n

In Montr\u00e9al you will you hear it pronounced “bah- gal” and yes, they are different.\u00a0 In contrast to the New York-style bagel, which also contains sourdough, the Montr\u00e9al bagel is smaller, thinner, sweeter and denser, with a larger hole, and always baked in a wood-fired oven. It contains malt, egg, and no salt, and is boiled in honey-sweetened water before being baked. You will also hear from locals that they are the best and most authentic bagels in world.\u00a0 I once took a homeless man, a Montr\u00e9al expat living in Vancouver<\/a>, for coffee and asked if he would like a bagel, too. He replied that they were not real bagels, and declined. His favorites and now mine: Montr\u00e9al\u2019s historic St.-Viateur Bagel<\/em> and Fairmount Bagel.<\/em><\/p>\n

Montr\u00e9al Smoked Meat<\/h3>\n

We all know pastrami and corned beef, but what is smoked meat? Well, it\u2019s basically beef brisket that has been dry-cured, but then soaked (unlike pastrami) to desalinate it before seasoning and smoking. The seasoning is apparently a secret, for no one will divulge anything else other than it makes the most delicious sandwich on the planet. Schwartz\u2019s (circa 1928) is the oldest deli in Canada and is considered institution, though others will make a case for the newcomer, Reuben\u2019s Deli and Steakhouse,<\/em> at only a mere 40 years of existence.<\/p>\n

\"Marie
Marie-Reine-du-Monde Cathedral is an example of why Montr\u00e9al is often nicknamed \u201cthe city of a hundred bell towers.\u201d<\/span> PHOTO COURTESY OF JEAN GAGNON, via WIKIMEDIA COMMONS \/ CC BY-SA 3.0<\/a>.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Other attractions<\/h3>\n

Touring Notre-Dame Basilica of Montr\u00e9al<\/em> and Marie-Reine-du-Monde Cathedral<\/em>, strolling trendy St-Catherine<\/em> and St Laurent Boulevards<\/em>, exploring the Downtown Museum Quarter and wandering the Quartier Latin, the main Francophone district. You can also take a spin on La Grande Roue de Montr\u00e9al<\/em>, the highest observation wheel in Canada at 197 feet.<\/p>\n

\"sleeping
Yes, the splendors of VIA Rail Canada.<\/span> PHOTO COURTESY OF VIA RAIL CANADA.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

How to get there<\/h3>\n

Virtually all major airlines offer flights to Montr\u00e9al, but if you have the time, why not go the distance and travel in luxury aboard VIA Rail Canada<\/em><\/a>. I\u2019ve trekked the rails from Vancouver to Halifax, and from the comfort of an armchair, crossed six provinces, experiencing everything from towering mountain peaks, sweeping forests and unique wildlife to wide-open prairies, two oceans and world-class cities. It\u2019s even better with a Caesar<\/em>, a Canadian version of the Bloody Mary<\/em>, in your hand. With the sound of tracks, it\u2019s easy to slip off to a luxuriant night of sleep.<\/p>\n

Where to stay<\/h3>\n

There is no hotel more conveniently situated than the Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth<\/em><\/a>. Located above the train station (Via Rail & AMTRAK) and connected to the underground city, this legendary hotel is within walking distance of downtown\u2019s numerous attractions as well as Old Montr\u00e9al. Offering 1,039 rooms, in which 100 are suites, this landmark property has played host to Charles de Gaulle, Nelson Mandela, the Dalai Lama, Mikhail Gorbachev and, if it was a not a surprise, Queen Elizabeth ll.<\/p>\n

For further information about travel to Montr\u00e9al, visit Tourisme-Montreal.org<\/a> or (877) BONJOUR.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I first visited Montr\u00e9al over fifteen years ago, and from the second I arrived in this culturally vibrant and international city, I knew I would return often. On each visit to the city, there were always new sights and pleasures to discover, but there were also certain attractions and experiences that have become almost mandatory …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":19151,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[187,4064,2497,4058,4066,4060,4062,4059,1949,4061,4067,4063,1952,4065],"class_list":["post-19156","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-travel","tag-canada","tag-john-lennon","tag-little-italy","tag-montreal","tag-montreal-bagels","tag-mount-royal","tag-mount-royal-cemetery","tag-old-montreal","tag-quebec","tag-sailors-church","tag-smoked-meat","tag-underground-montreal","tag-via-rail-canada","tag-yoko-ono"],"yoast_head":"\nMemories of Montr\u00e9al: France Without French Prices - Traveling Boy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"There is much to see and do in culturally vibrant Montr\u00e9al, and these are among my favorite things to do each visit.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/memories-of-montreal-going-to-france-without-french-prices\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Memories of Montr\u00e9al: France Without French Prices - 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