{"id":23622,"date":"2021-03-24T09:34:38","date_gmt":"2021-03-24T16:34:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=23622"},"modified":"2021-03-24T13:21:35","modified_gmt":"2021-03-24T20:21:35","slug":"what-food-is-liguria-famous-for-its-not-only-pesto","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/what-food-is-liguria-famous-for-its-not-only-pesto\/","title":{"rendered":"What Food is Liguria Famous For? It’s Not Only Pesto!"},"content":{"rendered":"

By James Martin<\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Trofie
PHOTO BY PASTALOVERS, VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS \/ CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a><\/span><\/center><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The fertile little crescent upon the sea you find on a map of Italy offers much more of culinary interest than you might think. Liguria isn\u2019t in the top 10 of regions invaded by \u201cfoodies\u201d, yet some of Italy\u2019s best olive oil grows on those steep slopes to the sea. The sunny yellow liquid is said to have come from trees were cultivated by Benedictine monks, who brought them to Liguria. The golden liquid makes humble food like\u00a0Mesciua<\/em>\u00a0into a sublime feast, and the vaunted focaccia into a substantial bread that\u2019s not just for sopping up the sauce.<\/p>\n

Pesto<\/h3>\n

But let\u2019s start with\u00a0Pesto, the one dish everyone thinks they know. Like other Italian food, a good pesto is deceptively simple. If you haven\u2019t had it outside of the United States, you have reason to go to Genoa province to taste the real thing; it uses several ingredients unique and protected and grown in Liguria, the tiny, tender leaves of basilico genovese D.O.P.<\/em> that easily turn to foam under the slight weight of the pestle. It is made in a marble mortar with a made-to-fit wooden pestle. This attention to detail makes quite a difference \u2014 until you\u2019ve tasted pesto made the traditional way right beside one made in a blender you might not understand. It is an explosion of summer in your mouth.<\/p>\n

\"DOP
DOP Genoese Basil (Basilico Genovese DOP). PHOTO BY STEGRIFO27, VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS \/ CC BY-SA 3.0<\/a>.<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

So here\u2019s what\u2019s in\u00a0pesto genovese<\/em>:\u00a0the basil mentioned above, garlic from Liguria, pine nuts, Ligurian olive oil, salt, and cheese. Folks these days use Parmigiano Reggiano, but the traditional cheese used was a Sardinian Pecorino called\u00a0fiore Sardo<\/em>. Sardinia, you see, was once aligned with the Republic of Genoa. A Genovese tradition is to add green beans and boiled potatoes, making it a heavier dish.<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s how to\u00a0make pesto right<\/a>.<\/p>\n

On most menus you\u2019ll find pesto as a condiment to a pasta called\u00a0trofie<\/em>, as you see in the picture below.<\/p>\n

\"Trofie
Trofie al Pesto. PHOTO BY PASTALOVERS, VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS \/ CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>.<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Read Deb Roskamp\u2019s Nonna\u2019s Pesto Pasta Recipe: Traveling Boy<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

Focaccia<\/h3>\n

The Ligurian flat bread typically benefits from that fine olive oil and sometimes a bit of rosemary and some coarse salt. There is nothing quite like a small square of focaccia with a couple of thin slices of prosciutto stuffed inside for a mid-morning snack after a bit of touristing. Wineries of the area might keep some around in the tasting room.<\/p>\n

\"Focaccia
Various types of Focaccia in Liguria. LEFT: PHOTO BY MICHELE URSINO, CC BY-SA 2.0<\/a>. RIGHT: PHOTO BY WIKIPEDIUS, CC BY-SA 3.0<\/a>. BOTH PHOTOS VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS.<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Farinata<\/h3>\n

Farinata<\/em> is a chickpea flour unleavened \u201cpancake\u201d often cooked on a large diameter metal pan inside a wood burning oven. It\u2019s simply composed of chickpea flour, salt, water, and a healthy glug of that fabulous olive oil. Farinata<\/em> stands dot the Ligurian landscape. You can even slice open a focaccia and insert farinata<\/em> for a sandwich, which is surprisingly good.<\/p>\n

\"farinata\"
Farinata. PHOTO BY ALESSIO SBARBARO, VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS \/ CC BY-SA 3.0<\/a>.<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Focaccia di Recco\u00a0IGP<\/h3>\n

The town of Recco makes a very interesting version of focaccia stuffed with a tangy white cheese that has a consistency somewhere between yogurt and cottage cheese called\u00a0prescinseua<\/em>. Focaccia di Recco<\/em> is so famous it has its own\u00a0FaceBook page<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Mesciua<\/h3>\n

If you end up seeking\u00a0cucina povera<\/em>\u00a0in Liguria, chances are this soup will meet any criteria you may have encountered. It began at the docks in La Spezia. After the ships were unloaded, women would come and forage the decks for the bits that had escaped the bags. They might have come across chickpeas, grains of all types including the region\u2019s\u00a0farro<\/em>, a specialty grain often mistakenly called \u201cspelt\u201d. Find out more about\u00a0Mesciua<\/a><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Stamped Pasta<\/h3>\n

Croxetti<\/em> with a Pine Nut Sauce consists of pasta disks stamped with a croxetti stamp in a sauce of pine nuts and marjoram or thyme. You can even\u00a0buy the stamps<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Fish and Shellfish<\/h3>\n

As you\u2019d expect, there\u2019s plenty of fresh seafood along the Italian Riviera. Iconic dishes of the region include the antipasto called\u00a0Polpo con Patate<\/em>, or octopus with potatoes drizzled in that fine olive oil. Here\u2019s another thing you can\u2019t get legally in many restaurants in the US. You see, it\u2019s one of those Italian dishes meant to be served\u00a0tepido<\/em>\u00a0or just barely warm, where it shines. Many states forbid anything to be served that\u2019s not at refrigerator temperature or above 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Yet another excuse to go to Liguria and enjoy \u201cItalian\u201d food as it has come to be. A tepid octopus hasn\u2019t killed anybody yet. Read more about\u00a0polpo con patate<\/a><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Fish Ligurian style is baked with sliced potatoes, cherry tomatoes, taggiasca<\/em> olives,\u00a0DOC\u00a0extra virgin olive oil from Liguria and salt.<\/p>\n

Fried anchovies, especially those from the coast around the Cinque Terre (specifically Monterosso) are eaten many ways, including fried.<\/p>\n

\"seafood
The iconic seafood cone and the always available fresh fish from the Mediterranean Sea at Manarola, Cinque Terre. PHOTOS BY DEB ROSKAMP.<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Cappon magro\u00a0<\/em>or\u00a0Cappun Magru<\/em>\u00a0is a stacked Genoese salad of seafood and vegetables over hardtack, known here as\u00a0Gallette<\/a><\/em>\u00a0dressed with a rich sauce.<\/p>\n

\"Cappun
Cappun Magru by the restaurant of the same name in Volastra. PHOTOS FROM CAPPUN MAGRU\u2019S FACEBOOK PAGE.<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A Ligurian sauce used on fish is called\u00a0Agliata<\/em>. Derived from an ancient Roman recipe, it consists of breadcrumbs, ample amounts of garlic, vinegar, olive oil, parsley and salt.<\/p>\n

Meat<\/h3>\n

Stecchi e Crocchini alla genovese<\/em>, both come with a base of \u201ccarne\u201d or meat, which is respectively\u2026brains and pancreas.<\/p>\n

Stecchi<\/em> are covered in a bechamel-like \u201ccream\u201d before being dusted with bread crumbs and fried. They are sometimes garnished with threads of smoky pepper.<\/p>\n

Crocchini<\/em>\u00a0has its offal wrapped in milk-soaked\u00a0ostie<\/em>, which are thin \u201cwaffles\u201d and a word also used to describe the communion wafer in church. Then they\u2019re breaded and deep fried.<\/p>\n

Unique? You betcha! You can find them at the\u00a0Albergo Ristorante Amici<\/a>\u00a0in Varese Ligure.<\/p>\n

Ligurian meat sauces offer a twist on the ground meat sauces of the rest of Italy. A ragu \u201cu tuccu\u201d<\/em> is made from a solid hunk of meat and cooked until it falls apart.<\/p>\n

A Few Words on Potatoes in Liguria<\/h3>\n

Italy has one of the lowest levels of potato eating in Europe (blame the pasta like everyone else does), and yet you\u2019ll find them in many Ligurian dishes. If you start a meal with octopus and potatoes and then move on to fish Ligurian style, you\u2019ll have your fill. I have yet to find out why the potato has such a large place at the Ligurian table, but when those sliced potatoes soak up the juices of a roasting fish, there\u2019s nothing better in the spud world.<\/p>\n

And Then There\u2019s the Wine<\/h3>\n

Liguria is home to over 100 varieties of grapes including 8\u00a0DOC\u00a0wines. Excellent with seafood are the white Pigato and Vermentino wines. While these are very similar, the Pigato\u00a0DOC\u00a0is considered the more complex of the two.<\/p>\n

\"white
White wine varieties from Liguria. LEFT: PHOTO BY NICHOLAS SOLGA, CC BY 2.0<\/a>. RIGHT: PHOTO BY FERMENTED THOUGHTS, CC BY 2.0<\/a>. BOTH PHOTOS VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS.<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/div>\n

What Food is Liguria Famous for?<\/em><\/a>\u00a0originally appeared on WanderingLiguria.com Jun 21, 2020, updated:\u00a0Jun 25, 2020\u00a0\u00a9\u00a0James Martin<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The fertile little crescent upon the sea you find on a map of Italy offers much more of culinary interest than you might think. Liguria isn\u2019t in the top 10 of regions invaded by \u201cfoodies\u201d, yet some of Italy\u2019s best olive oil grows on those steep slopes to the sea.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":23619,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-23622","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"yoast_head":"\nWhat Food is Liguria Famous For? 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