{"id":7465,"date":"2018-08-10T18:55:17","date_gmt":"2018-08-11T01:55:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/?p=7465"},"modified":"2021-03-26T13:46:00","modified_gmt":"2021-03-26T20:46:00","slug":"friuli-venezia-giulia-region-part-ii","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/friuli-venezia-giulia-region-part-ii\/","title":{"rendered":"A Piece of Paradise: The Friuli Venezia Giulia Region, Part II"},"content":{"rendered":"

Just as the early morning sun had penetrated the Adriatic Sea\u2019s marine layer, my driver arrived to take me to the Venice airport for my flight home to the U.S. The port of PortoPiccolo<\/a> proved to be the ideal location to end my journey of Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia Region. Located minutes from Trieste, devoid of Roman roads and medieval streets, the upscale seaside resort was the perfect venue to simply relax and reflect about my exploration of this almost secret region in northeastern Italy. In Part 1<\/a> of Friuli-Venezia Giulia<\/em>, I discussed Trieste, Undine, Sacile and the Friulian Dolomites, but there was so much more to write about.<\/p>\n

\"the
The Friuli Venezia Giulia Region stretches from sea level to the 7122 ft. high Dolomites.<\/span> Photo credit: Mario Venin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My driver was a well-traveled and youthful looking man of 70 who called Friuli-Venezia Giulia home. Speaking in perfect English, \u201cMy secret for fitness is to drink just one glass of Frulian wine a day,\u201d he laughed. When I informed him that I was both a Great War and Ernest Hemingway buff, he politely pointed out World War I battle sites, many of which\u00a0 Hemingway had written about in A Farewell to Arms <\/em>when he was an 18-year-old ambulance driver. \u00a0So my journey continued with the driver as my own private guide. In between his informative commentary, he was anxious to hear about some of my favorite locations in his region.<\/p>\n

Aquileia<\/h3>\n
\"Aquileia
The landscape of Aquileia.<\/span> Photo credit: Gianluca Baronchelli<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Aquileia is yet another of Friuli-Venezia Giulia\u2019s UNESCO World Heritage Sites; and there are countless reasons why. Now a small rural village, it was colonized by the Romans in 181 BC, and was once the second largest city in the empire with a population of 100,000. It was initially intended as a military center to stave off invasions of central and northern European barbarians. But its position on the edge of the Adriatic\u2019s lagoons led to its rapid growth as a commercial and political center, making it one of the wealthiest cities of the early Roman Empire.<\/p>\n

\"Roman
Roman ruins on display at Aquileia.<\/span> Photo credit: Massimo Crivellari<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The city was leveled by Attila’s Huns in 452 AD, resulting in its citizens escaping to the southwest, eventually establishing Grado and Venice<\/a>.\u00a0 Most of Aquileia still lies unexcavated beneath the fields, containing the world\u2019s greatest archaeological reserve of its kind. In the early Middle Ages, a much smaller town in post-Roman Aquileia emerged. With the construction of the present\u00a0day Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, it went on to become the largest Christian diocese in Europe.<\/p>\n

\"mosaics
The Mosaics in Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.<\/span> Photo Credit: Gianluca Baronchelli<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The patriarchal basilica played a key role in the evangelization of a large region\u00a0in central Europe. Its remarkable floor mosaics are the oldest in Christendom. Keep in mind, throughout history, most sermons were in Latin, and the average person could not read nor write. Mosaics, stained-glass windows and statues were not only beautiful works of art, but also illustrated important biblical passages the populace could understand.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Grado, Friuli Venezia Giulia\u2019s\u00a0Lagoon City<\/h3>\n
\"fisherman\u2019s
A fisherman\u2019s casoni (dwelling) in Grado.<\/span> Photo credit: Ed Boitano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

No stranger to creature comforts, the lagoon city of Grado was once a destination for the Romans to cool off their well-traveled legionnaire heels. Their mode of transport was a Roman road from Aquileia, now submerged under the lagoon\u2019s waters.\u00a0 Located in the midst of the Adriatic\u2019s northernmost lagoon, Grado was later a holistic retreat for the Hapsburg aristocracy who would\u00a0 use the seaside thermal springs and curative gray sand for therapeutic treatments. Its popularity continues today as a resort destination for German, Swiss, Austrian and Italian families.<\/p>\n

\"archaeological
The Grado of today is a mix of old and new.<\/span> Photo credit: Gianluca Baronchelli<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Grado is spread across a narrow island, backed by wide open beaches on one side, and lagoons with a series of small islands, wetlands on the other. In the middle there\u2019s a rustic Venetian-style ancient town center where one can stroll through calli<\/em> (narrow alleyways), which open to squares with examples of early Christian basilicas, fishermen’s houses and restaurants.<\/p>\n

\"\"
LEFT: The bounty of the sea at Ai Fiuri de Tapo island restaurant, caught at their shore.<\/span> Photo credit: Gary Singh, travel writer. RIGHT: Ai Fiuri de Tapo\u2019s chef demonstrates how to fillet a fish.<\/span> Photo credit: Ai Fiuri de Tapo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A boat tour of the lagoon is essential where traditional island life is on display with modest fishermen housing known as casoni<\/em>, characterized by their straw roofs. Many casoni are now boarded-up with the glory days of fishing for a living almost gone, but you can still enjoy the rewards of the sea with the freshest of seafood served in one of the small island\u2019s very authentic restaurants. Looking out at the lagoon\u2019s marshes, reeds and petite\u00a0islands, you can almost imagine what Venice once looked like before there was even a thought of building a city, let alone an empire. In the background looms the mountains where some of the fiercest battles of the Great War were fought.<\/p>\n

Cellina Nature Reserve: The Hanging Bridge and the Lake of Barcis<\/h3>\n
\"the
The striking artificial green lake of Barcis, located in the heart of Valcellina, is just a few steps from the Nature Reserve Forra del Cellina.<\/span> Photo credit Ed Boitano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Cellina Gorge is the largest and most spectacular canyon of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Carved away by years of torrential waters, steep limestone rocks plunge vertically into a creek with examples of intense erosion and karstification, a bit reminiscent of a small Grand Canyon<\/a>. The waters and deep canyons was once the only link of the valley with the plain. The reserve is the most important part of the Cellina stream, located between the artificial\u00a0lakes of Barcis and Montereale before its outlet in the high plains of Pordenone.<\/p>\n

\"participants
Participants mask their apprehension as they prepare to walk the hanging bridge in the Cellina Nature Reserve.<\/span> Photo credit Ed Boitano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A new metal\u00a0 hanging bridge was recently constructed\u00a0 with steel cables and steps\u00a0above the \u00a0steep gorge. Participants wear climbing helmets provided by the custodian at the entrance, who convey instructions to enjoy the experience in safety.<\/p>\n

Russiz Superiore Winery \u2013 The Grand Finale<\/h3>\n
\"the
The 100 acre Russiz Superiore vineyards is a labor of love by owner Roberto Felluga.<\/span> Photo credit: Roberta Rabini<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Roberto Felluga\u2019s Russiz Superiore Winery is situated in the heart of Friuli\u2019s breathtaking Wine Country<\/em>. Originally part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire,\u00a0some believe the region is psychologically closer to Austria than to Italy. One can\u00a0taste this influence in his wines which possess almost a\u00a0crisp Germanic precision. Russiz Superiore\u2019s estate extends over 100 acres, <\/strong>with the focus on the small production of wines that maximize the intensity of the grapes as well as highlighting the landscape of its home in Collio. The Friulian central plateau\u2019s Wine Country <\/em>is rated as Italy\u2019s third most important wine\u00a0quality\u00a0region. <\/em><\/p>\n

\"magical
The magical wine cellar event.<\/span> Photo credit: Roberta Rabini<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A wine and food extravaganza at the Russiz Superiore Wine Cellar was a fitting way to end the evening. And a glass of grappa, first produced in the local mountains, was the\u00a0perfect digestive to end the meal. Other Friulian creations include Prosciutto di San Daniele<\/em> \u2013 similar to Prosciutto di Parma, but less robust and more sublime \u2013 white asparagus, Montasio<\/em> \u2013 a creamy, unpasteurized mountain cheese \u2013 and Spaghetti Felicetti<\/em> \u2013 pasta from the Dolomites. Remember. In Italy pasta is not served as an entr\u00e9e, it follows the antipasto and proceeds the main course. Pasta is also served in a bowl, with no large spoon for twirling the pasta with a fork. I asked a waiter in Grado where the antipasto tradition of dipping a piece of bread into a plate of olive oil began. He replied, \u201cLos Angeles, California.\u201d *<\/p>\n

\"Chef
Chef Ivan Bombieri treats guests to a cooking demonstration at Ristorante La Taverna. Read the full story<\/a>.<\/span> Photo credit: Ed Boitano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My driver and I arrived at the Venice Airport. With almost Austrian formality he dropped my bags at the terminal, and then shook my hand. \u201cIt was a great pleasure, signore.\u201d \u201cNo, the pleasure really belongs to me,\u201d I replied. \u201cI\u2019ve learned a lot from you.\u201d I handed him a few euros. \u201cPlease take this and don\u2019t be offended.\u201d After glancing at the money, he responded, \u201cThis will buy many \u2018one-glass-a-day-wines.\u2019\u201d He then added, \u201cFriuli has many secrets and maybe the time is right for them to be discovered by the rest of the world.\u201d With that, he drove off and I entered the airport for my exploration of Friuli-Venezia Giulia was over.<\/p>\n

* History tells us that the history of dipping a cubed piece of bread in a dollop of olive oil\u00a0was a way to test the quality of the various oils. Because butter is generally not on the Italian table, North Americans\u00a0assume that the olive oil which is, is for flavoring the bread.<\/p>\n

Get more information about Friuli Venezia Giulia<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Just as the early morning sun had penetrated the Adriatic Sea\u2019s marine layer, my driver arrived to take me to the Venice airport for my flight home to the U.S.\u00a0\u00a0 PortoPiccolo proved to be the ideal location to end my journey of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Located minutes from Trieste, devoid of Roman roads and medieval streets, the upscale seaside resort was the perfect venue to simply relax and reflect about my exploration of Italy\u2019s Friuli Venezia Giulia Region.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":7534,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[1385,1387,1389,1288,1384,1386,29,1388,105,1081],"class_list":["post-7465","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-travel","tag-aquileia","tag-cellina-gorge","tag-cellina-nature-reserve","tag-dolomites","tag-friuli-venezia-giulia","tag-grado","tag-italy","tag-russiz-superiore-winery","tag-wine","tag-winery"],"yoast_head":"\nA Piece of Paradise: The Friuli Venezia Giulia Region, Part II - Traveling Archive<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Part 2 of Traveling Boy's feature on the Friuli Venezia Giulia region focuses on Aquileia Grado, the Cellina Nature Reserve and the Russiz Superiore Winery.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/travelingboy.com\/travel\/friuli-venezia-giulia-region-part-ii\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Piece of Paradise: The Friuli Venezia Giulia Region, Part II - 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