Luxury Framed by an Endless View

Stepping inside the Lodge reveals a deep connection to San Francisco’s military past. The building sits prominently on “Infantry Row,” a stretch of five identical, historic red-brick barracks flanking the Main Parade Ground. Originally constructed between 1895 and 1897 to house hundreds of soldiers guarding the strategic entrance to the bay, the hotel building has been transformed into an intimate, 42-room boutique property. The meticulous restoration honors its rugged heritage across the shared historic campus, preserving original cast-iron columns, massive multi-story windows, and long corridors lined with vintage photography.

Our guest room beautifully captured this upscale comfort. Opening the door revealed a bright, expansive space anchored by two plush queen beds, a stocked mini-fridge, a cupboard full of spirits, and an espresso machine with some of the best hotel coffee I’ve ever had. The spacious bathroom was equally impressive, with bright marble vanities and an extra deep tub.

The absolute best part of the room was the view. All it took was drawing back the curtains to see the Golden Gate Bridge stretched out right in front of us. We got to see it change all day long—from the thick morning fog rolling under the bridge to the bright evening sun hitting those orange towers.

Artisanal Mornings and Sunset Receptions

Another hotel highlight is the complimentary daily breakfast. Served in the sunlit dining area, the selection features fresh-baked artisanal breads, flaky pastries, cereals, seasonal fruit, hard-boiled eggs, fresh juice, and coffee. The cozy space itself boasts plenty of comfortable seating options and a warm fireplace. And when the weather is good, guests can even take their plates outside to sit on the front porch and enjoy the fresh air.

The hotel’s hospitality returns each evening at 5 o’clock for the lodge’s wine reception, held back in the dining space. Here, guests can relax over a beautifully arranged spread of charcuterie, local cheeses, gourmet nuts, bite-sized desserts, fine California wine, and fresh lemonade that the kids absolutely loved.

From Fortress Islands to Crooked Streets

The hotel sits right on the Main Post—the historic, park-like town square that serves as the walkable heart of the Presidio—offering incredible convenience for a family looking to explore. Right next door sits The Walt Disney Family Museum, a fantastic spot founded by Disney’s daughter that showcases the animator’s life, early drawings, and a massive scale model of Disneyland, all housed inside another one of the post’s historic, retrofitted barracks. Beyond this, the property is surrounded by miles of dedicated bike and walking paths that weave down to Crissy Field—a sprawling, former 1920s U.S. Army airfield that has been restored into a massive waterfront park.

Our first major excursion took us to the waterfront, where we boarded a ferry with Alcatraz City Cruises out to infamous Alcatraz Island. Sailing across the choppy bay waters offered incredible, sweeping views of the city skyline before we docked at “The Rock,” one of the most legendary prisons in history. While touring the prison, we took an immersive audio tour that guided us through the old, cold cellblocks.

We were captivated by the story of the Great Escape of 1962, when prisoners Frank Morris and the Anglin brothers used sharpened spoons to chip through aging concrete in their cells and created papier-mâché dummy heads in their beds to fool the night guards. They then slipped into the freezing, treacherous waters of the bay on a raft made of stolen raincoats. To this day, no bodies have ever been found, leaving many to wonder if the inmates met a dark fate in the currents or successfully vanished into new lives on the mainland.

The next morning, we drove into the heart of the city to tackle Lombard Street, one of the crookedest streets in the world. Climbing steep sidewalk steps alongside a line of slow-moving tourist traffic was a major workout, but reaching the summit was worth the effort. The eight sharp, brick-paved hairpin turns, bordered by perfectly manicured hydrangea beds, offered a quintessential San Francisco view. Looking down from the crest, we could see past the red-brick roofs all the way to the sparkling waters of the bay.

From Lombard Street, we walked a few blocks to the historic plaza of Ghirardelli Square. Established in 1893 by Italian immigrant Domenico Ghirardelli, this massive brick complex originally served as the headquarters for his legendary chocolate company. Today, it stands as a brilliant example of historic adaptive reuse. We spent an hour wandering the plaza, viewing the antique, operational chocolate-making machinery, and treating ourselves to decadent chocolate and hot fudge sundaes.

Our exploration concluded with a driving tour over the region’s two iconic suspension bridges. First, we drove across the sweeping span of the Golden Gate Bridge, looking down at the dark blue water opening out to the Pacific. Later, we made our way across the double-decked Oakland Bay Bridge, which offered a completely different, breathtaking perspective of the downtown skyscrapers rising directly from the water’s edge.

Leaving the City Behind

After navigating the busy bridges and steep hills, pulling back into the quiet roads of the Presidio felt like arriving home. We spent our final evening relaxing by the hotel’s outdoor fire pit, watching the fog crawl back in over the bay. It proved that the Lodge at the Presidio is more than just a place to sleep—it’s a peaceful, historic anchor that turns a family trip to San Francisco into an unforgettable journey.

When You Go

For more information on planning your stay or making reservations at The Lodge at the Presidio, call (415) 561-1234 or visit presidiolodging.com. To book a ferry to Alcatraz, secure your timed tickets in advance at Alcatraz City Cruises.

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With incredible stories to tell, the remarkable roadway is as earthy as a blues singer, as touched by fatigue as an aged opera singer, and as wonderfully passionate as a Hollywood diva, and conveys surprising charm around its every bend.

Tagged “The Road of Dreams,” “The Main Street of America,” and “The Mother Road,” as portrayed in John Steinbeck’s novel “Grapes of Wrath,” the currently dubbed Historic Route 66 offers astounding possibilities for folks with a sense of discovery and those willing to relinquish freeway clutter and the monotony of Interstate Highways.

The great pathway, a long silk ribbon leading to a gleaming pot of gold in the far distance, was established in 1926 extending from Chicago to California, a whopping 2,448 challenging miles of sweeping scenery. Originally ending in Los Angeles the highway was later extended to Santa Monica, and, according to historians, entirely paved by 1937.

Winding through Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California, Route 66 was the first ever United States transcontinental highway, and from its launch was the legendary setting for overflowing sagas of broken dreams, and innumerable tales of first-person adventure encountered along the lengthy journey. During the Great Depression of the 1930s and the devastating Midwest drought that created the Dust Bowl, when countless families lost their farms and homes and in desperation turned to migrant work, Route 66 became their paramount prospect for a new beginning.

Last Chance gas pump

The highway beckoned like a mischievous rascal, yet despite the prospects of a difficult journey, travelers shared lofty expectations and hoped for a touch of luck and an opportunity to find work and some palm-laden sunshine out west.

The popular catchphrase “California Here I Come,” was ringing on the lips of Route 66 travelers as they cautiously maneuvered overloaded vehicles not up to the task, discovering that gas stations are not always conveniently located, that flat tires and boiling radiators were a given, and that blazing neon-lit hotel signs glowing like beacons in the night all too often included the ominous and unwelcoming “No Vacancy.”

California’s 286 miles of Route 66 meandering through San Bernardino County can capture the hearts of those with a bit of imagination. The county, with an area of 20,105 square miles, is the largest in the United States by area, larger than 71 different sovereign nations. History buffs with camera in hand, and a tank of petrol, can enjoy the awaiting nostalgia, and experience an era of Americana that remains an enduring legend.

With much of the vast landscape, rolling hills, lingering night sky, and enormous horizons locked in the remarkably unchanging California time capsule, one can picture the original travelers negotiating San Bernardino County and hear the humming whirl of a million tires. Today, large numbers of Historic Route 66 aficionados, as well as club members from the United States, Holland, Germany, and the California Historic Route 66 Association, are reliving Route 66 history and the captivating highlights.

Through the 1960s weary travelers from the east were ecstatic upon arriving at Needles, the first California Route 66 stop. A proud town of 5,000 residents established in 1883 on the Arizona border and now bypassed by the Interstate Highway, Needles is lined with buildings from the first half of the 20th century, and was a location for the 1940 movie, Grapes of Wrath, and the popular Route 66 television series.

Eleven miles southwest of Needles at the Moabi Regional Park tucked away on a Colorado River channel adjacent to Route 66, Pirates Cove Resort & Marina hosts a large Historic Route 66 sign on the original signposts. Nearby is the trusty Old Trails Arch Bridge, a pathway across the Colorado River for dust bowl immigrants and other travelers from 1916 to 1947. Converted to support a utility line, the bridge remains in use today.

Opened after the heyday of the Mother Road, the resort, a large family-style RV and boating destination, is an opportune pause for today’s Route 66 travelers, offering narrated boat trips on the Colorado River, nature walks, dining opportunities, and exclusive, five-star, kitchen ready, river-front accommodations.

The Kelso Depot Visitor Center was once a booming center for the Union Pacific Railroad during the time of the mighty steam engines. Today it is a designated U.S. Historic District located in the 1-6-million-acre Mojave National Preserve, a fascinating side excursion via I-40 and Kelbaker Road, and a shard of a desert ghost town. The depot, circa 1924, has museum exhibits, historically restored rooms, café, theater, bookstore, and an amusing outdoor, freestanding jail, perfect for the over-served ruffians of the day.

Southwest of Kelso off Kelbaker Road, the Kelso Dune Field, covering 45-square-miles, rises some 650-feet into the sky. Accessed by a three-mile gravel road, the wind-swept dunes, at times, can be heard singing a timeless, wordless and unending desert song.

Returning to Route 66 via a thirty-minute drive to Amboy, population eight, today’s travelers can stop by Roy’s Café (named for one of the owners), an historic landmark in Route 66 lore, noted as the only food, lodging, and gasoline stop for miles in the eastern part of the Mojave.

Visitors can sit at the original 1940s lunch counter, enjoy Roy’s famed Route 66 Root Beer, and feel as if the Mother Road is giving you an endearing embrace. The lone gas pump is a bit ragged around the edges, while across the highway a small post office mails “wish you were here” postcards stamped Amboy.

A few miles west the Pisgah Crater and the 6,000-year-old Amboy Cinder Cone Crater, emerge on the horizon. Further down the highway is the famed Bagdad Café, popular with Europeans who descend by the busload. Sometimes it is frivolous French tourists beset with the celebrated café’s awesome ambience, who pose for pictures as if in the throes of a Paris fashion shoot. Other days German fills the air, or the sibilant lisp of Castilian Spanish. Prince Albert of Monaco, forgoing a bus, also has memories of the Bagdad Café.

The 1988 cult film Bagdad Café, borrowing characters from the café and starring Jack Palance, was filmed here creating yet another chicken-and-egg conundrum: Was the café chosen because it already gave the appearance of an uproarious movie set, where anyone from Elvis to Bogart could be standing around enjoying the place? Or did that look rub off on it during filming? Either way, it has a Hollywood look all its own.

Walls are plastered with travel memorabilia from every corner of the world. Hundreds of hats line the ceiling while an old jukebox on its last legs is willing to play after a kick or two, just loud enough to be heard over the noisy floor fan working hard to cool a few tables.

Barstow, a 30-minute drive from the Bagdad Café, is another Route 66 bonanza.

A bypassed desert jewel, the tree-lined roadway runs smack through downtown past 15 huge wall murals and the site of the fascinating Route 66 “Mother Road” Museum tucked away in the historic Casa del Desierto Harvey House, dating to 1911.

Visitors can pick up a t-shirt and browse among the exhibits. Near the west end of town the Route 66 Motel, one of the oldest motels in the city, in keeping with the era, has rusted vintage cars and Route 66 memorabilia decorating its yard.

The first sight of The Bottle Tree Ranch, 20 minutes from Barstow, etches itself in the memory as an outrageously whimsical vision of life on the other side of somewhere. Friendly owner Elmer Long created a forest of 200 one-of-a-kind bottle trees using a mish-mash of junk yard treasure items such as typewriters, pistols, telephones, deer horns and road signs including one that reads Route 66, Bagdad, CA 1893.

Greeting visitors after the short drive to Victorville is a large sign reading, “Old Town – Route 66.” Nearby is the celebrated, five-star, Route 66 Museum, noted as one of the largest and most complete museums on the Mother Road.

The museum showcases everything from a 1966 Volkswagen and classic teardrop trailer, to old Pepsi machines, juke boxes, signs reading “Gas, 18 Cents,” and joyful memories of Route 66’s glory days and driving holidays. Sharon Foster, a Museum Board Member said, “Admission is free, there is parking for everyone, and remarkably, 60 percent of our visitors are international.”

The historic discoveries along Route 66 are endless. The notable 1949 Wigwam Motel, 42-miles from Victorville, on the border of Rialto and San Bernardino, was depicted in Disney’s Pixar film, Cars, along with Route 66 and Roy’s Café. At the Wigwam nineteen 30-foot-high teepee-style accommodations created for Route 66 travelers of concrete and stucco live on.

The Mother Road, sharing its name with Foothill Boulevard runs through the heart of Rancho Cucamonga past Vince’s Spaghetti Restaurant, a family tradition since 1945, serving spaghetti and meatballs to eager diners on Saturdays.

Though Ontario is a few miles south of the original Route 66 route, the city celebrates Route 66 with the Route 66 Cruisin’ Reunion Festival. For three days each September several thousand classic cars are on display along with 16 rotating bands, dancing and food stands.

Those with a clamoring for a taste of olives can tour Ontario’s world-renowned Graber Olive House producing olives since 1894. Located on 4th street, Graber has been awarded numerous honors with their hand-based equipment. There is not a computer to be seen and family members reside here helping to create a friendly feel in the packinghouse.

A couple from Chicago enjoying their second Route 66 journey and the classic car festival in Ontario remarked, “The future is somewhere ahead, the moment is now, but nostalgia is forever.” It is the perfect motto for Route 66 travelers young and old.

When You Go

County of San Bernardino, California; www.sbcounty.gov/

This article was originally published April 2017.

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After a 60-minute cruise across the San Pedro Channel, we spotted the rugged island’s iconic round Catalina Casino and its tiny harbor full of colorful boats. We had made it to Catalina and our getaway to The Avalon Hotel was before us. Our journey to the island began aboard a Catalina Express high-speed catamaran, slicing smoothly through the deep blue water. After disembarking, we walked 15 minutes through town to the hotel, where we found a property so idyllic and charming, it reminded me of a Hallmark movie set.

A Masterclass in Cozy Design

The hotel blends the charm of a European seaside boutique with the warmth of a cozy bed-and-breakfast, greeting you with rich, beautifully hand-carved African teak wood wrapped around the lobby. After a warm and friendly greeting from the front desk, we checked into suite 206. Inside the room, we found a masterclass in efficiency. Built-in storage drawers offer tons of luggage space, and a clever office desk nook provides a dedicated workspace without crowding the room.

The sleeping arrangements are brilliantly flexible: a big, comfy queen bed anchors the space, supplemented by a cozy, fold-down Murphy bed. In the bathroom, old-fashioned black-and-white checkered tile floors add vintage luxury to the bathtub and shower combo.

One of the first things that struck us upon entering the room was the ocean view taking up the balcony door windows. From this vantage point, we could see the historic Catalina Casino and boats bobbing in the crescent-shaped harbor. Some people actually live and stay on those anchored boats, waking up over the water and literally swimming straight to the beach each day. Once acquainted with the room, we climbed up a couple flights of hotel stairs to a hidden rooftop paradise. This guest-only escape offers tables, chairs, and complimentary drinks, boasting panoramic views of the island and ocean.

The Charm of a Car-less Community

Location is everything, and the hotel sits just one block from the main drag. Like the rest of town, everything is within walking distance. A quick stroll from the hotel leads straight to the sand, where a roped-off beach area provides a safe haven for the kids to play. While here, we rented inner tubes and the kids zoomed in and out of the gentle waves and then built sandcastles. For lunch, we walked a couple blocks to Vons market and picked up some chicken and sandwiches from the deli. We then enjoyed a picnic on the beach.

After lunch, we explored town and one of Avalon’s most unique quirks: its vehicles. Because the city strictly limits the size and number of vehicles allowed on the island—resulting in a decades-long waiting list for a standard car—residents rely heavily on micro-vehicles. Amidst the sea of golf carts, Japanese Kei trucks stand out.

These tiny, 660cc-engine workhorses are imported directly from Japan. They are prized by locals because their narrow frames easily navigate Avalon’s tight, steep streets while legally bypassing standard vehicle size limits. My son and I love small trucks, and getting to look at them was one of the main reasons we came to the island.

To make our walks a little sweeter, we made a daily stop at Lloyd’s of Avalon for ice cream. Centrally located on Crescent Avenue, this legendary sweet shop has been a Catalina institution since 1934. The shop even holds a famous piece of Hollywood lore: a teenage, pre-fame Marilyn Monroe—then still known as Norma Jeane Dougherty—worked a part-time job right behind the counter during WWII.

Kelp Forests and Local History

The next morning, we headed down to the hotel’s patio for complimentary breakfast. Here, in a garden-like setting surrounded by a trickling fountain and a peaceful koi fish pond, we enjoyed fresh homemade pastries, hard-boiled eggs, toast, bagels, juice, and coffee.

We then took a glass-bottom boat tour out to Lovers Cove Marine Preserve, which offered a window into Catalina’s crystal-clear waters. Looking through the viewing panels, the ocean floor came alive with thick, towering amber kelp forests. Bright, neon-orange Garibaldi—California’s official state marine fish—darted through the kelp alongside schools of striped Opaleye, silver Kelp Bass, and camouflaged Calico Bass.

Back at the hotel, the rooftop deck provided the perfect spot to unwind and read up on the building’s history. The Avalon Hotel stands on ground steeped in island lore, built on the site of the original 1920s Catalina Hospital. Reimagined as a boutique hotel, it preserves the classic Craftsman architectural style that defined early 20th-century California coastal living, blending historical preservation with modern comfort.

Reading about the island, I learned that chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr. bought the island in 1919 and shaped it into a premier destination. He even brought the Chicago Cubs here for spring training. Beyond Avalon’s town limits lies a wild interior managed by the Catalina Island Conservancy. This backcountry is famous for its wild American bison. A movie crew originally brought 14 bison to the island in 1924 for a silent film shoot. When the production ran out of money to herd them back, Wrigley allowed them to stay. Today, a managed herd of about 150 bison still roams the golden hills. Visitors can explore this rugged side of the island via classic inland motor tour buses or rugged, open-air 4×4 Humvee eco-tours that climb up to the 1,500-foot peaks.

Scaling the Hills

Our next adventure was renting a golf cart. This is the island’s primary mode of transportation for locals and tourists alike, making the roads feel like a whimsical, slow-moving parade. Driving up the steep, winding hills reveals beautiful homes precariously perched on the cliffsides, alongside even more hidden tiny vans and utility trucks tucked into narrow driveways. Along the ridges, we encountered mule deer grazing by the roadside. These deer are not native either; they were introduced to the island in the 1930s to encourage tourism and have since completely adapted to the rugged terrain.

Local Flavor at The Lobster Trap

For dinner, we discovered a beloved island landmark tucked just off the main waterfront: The Lobster Trap. Stepping inside, the restaurant immediately wraps you in a lively, casual, and unapologetically maritime atmosphere. A giant replica fish hangs proudly from the ceiling, flat-screen TVs show sports games, and the energetic chatter of tourists and locals creates a welcoming, family-friendly hum. The extensive menu has plenty of crowd-pleasers. The kids kept it simple and completely cleared their plates with orders of golden chicken nuggets and a classic, juicy grilled hamburger. I opted for their signature lobster roll sandwich, featuring a perfectly grilled bun packed with chilled claw and knuckle meat tossed in a creamy, subtle tarragon sauce. It was the ultimate, authentic bite of coastal comfort food to fuel us after a long day of exploring.

Riding in Style with Catalina Express

The following morning, we said goodbye to The Avalon Hotel and boarded the Catalina Express. Upgrading to the Commodore Lounge granted us priority boarding to skip the lines and sink into spacious, leather-trimmed seats inside the exclusive upper-level cabin. With complimentary drinks and snacks in hand, we relaxed in quiet luxury on the smooth ride back, watching Catalina Island slowly dissolve into the ocean mist.

For more information on staying at The Avalon Hotel, visit The Avalon Hotel or call 310-510-7070. For more info on getting to the island, visit Catalina Express at Catalina Express or call 800-613-1212.

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I was lucky but didn’t know it. My high school years were spent at Queen Anne High School, nestled on top of one of Seattle’s seven hills. With views of the Space Needle, Puget Sound, downtown and Mount Rainer. We had a joke, if you could see this volcanic mountain, it meant it was about to rain. But we didn’t care, taking our lofty location for granted.

Mount Rainer was sacred to my family. It was where my parents had their first date, picnic prepared by mom’s mother. This time the joke was on my dad. He had thought that the elegant picnic basket, full of delectables, was made by my mom, later realizing she could barely boil an egg. Today, she can.

Mount Rainier National Park serves as an icon for Western and Central Washingtonians. The park is about 65 miles southeast of the Seattle-Tacoma metropolitan area and 65 miles west of Yakima in the Cascade Range.

It’s an active volcano, strewn with glaciers, wildflowers, wildlife and well-designed hiking trails, ideal for seniors and children.

Mount Rainier National Park covers about 236,381.9 acres. This area includes all of Mount Rainier, a 14,410 foot stratovolcano (a tall, steep-sided composite volcanic cone built by alternating layers of hardened lava, ash, and rocks), along with surrounding valleys, waterfalls, subalpine meadows, and over 91,000 acres of old growth forests. Ninety seven percent of the park is designated as wilderness under the National Wilderness Preservation System.

The park spans a dramatic elevation range from roughly 1,600-1,700 feet at its lowest points to the summit of Mount Rainier, and it is home to more than 25 named glaciers, the largest glacier system in the contiguous United States.

Around 10,000 climbers come from around the world each year to attempt the summit.

Paradise, at 5,420 feet elevation, is my favorite. In August it is blessed with wildflowers, huckleberries and blueberries. Mount Rainier National Park was recognized by the United States Congress. This made it the fifth national park in the United States. The park was created to protect and preserve Mount Rainier, once again the tallest volcano in the contiguous U.S. outside Alaska, along with its natural and cultural resources.

Mount Rainier National Park was established by an act of Congress signed into law on March 2, 1899, by President William McKinley. While
McKinley signed the bill, the park’s creation was the result of sustained local advocacy in Washington state. Efforts began in 1893 when state lawmakers introduced multiple bills in successive
congressional sessions to set aside the area. The campaign drew support from local mountaineering clubs, newspaper editors, University of Washington faculty, and conservationists like John
Muir, who praised the region’s natural beauty.

Mount Rainier National Park is open all year, 24 hours a day. Visitation is at its peak in July and August, when the weather is warm and dry and the wildflowers are blooming. If you are planning a summer trip to Mount Rainier, consider visiting mid-week, which is generally less crowded..

For further information, visit Mount Rainier National Park (U.S. National Park Service)

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First, a little background. During the late 1800’s, distilleries in the area were abundant. The mountain geography provided secluded protection for hidden stills. Corn was plentiful and easily turned into whiskey – and making moonshine was profitable. And then Prohibition hit! Consensus thinking at the time was that it would inhibit drinking and the making of it. But, of course, that was nonsense. Binge drinking probably got its start during Prohibition.

The demand for illegal alcohol skyrocketed – and the Franklin County bootleggers were more than happy to oblige, developing sophisticated transportation routes to move liquor up and down the East Coast. It famously claimed to produce more illicit liquor than anywhere else in the U.S. during Prohibition, entitling them to the moniker of “Moonshine Capital of the world,” a label they remain proud of to this day. My recent visit to the area reinforced that impression. After all, there’s a museum devoted to the very idea – albeit with a slightly different orientation.

The Moonshine Explosion Museum is devoted to just that – a June 11, 1930 literal explosion of two over-heating Model T Fords that drove into a garage for repair. Why did they explode? Trunks full of illegal liquor also over-heated. Charred remains of the cars are still ensconced in the basement of the original building which was built in 1912, but they weren’t discovered until 2017 during basement renovations – although the story proliferated well before and after.

But despite the museum’s singular name, it also paints a much more complete picture of the still celebrated history of moonshine, which kept many an Appalachian family able to survive. The museum highlights the connection between “white lightning” (AKA Firewater, Hooch) and the community, fostering a sense of resilience and ingenuity – and, oh yes, a massive evasion of the law. Franklin County became known for its high-quality moonshine and the persistence of its moonshiners in resisting authorities.

And apparently, ramifications of that questionable ability exist today. Because many moonshiners modified cars to outrun law enforcement, the culture influenced early stock-car racing, and that tradition helped contribute to the origins of NASCAR. Not entirely sure how I feel about that particular legacy….

But back to bootlegging – and the notorious Great Moonshine Conspiracy Trial of 1935, the second longest trial in Virginia history. It involved a high-profile legal case involving 23 defendants accused of multiple large-scale moonshine operations. Many were convicted but the illegal operations continued to thrive.

A visit to Twin Creeks distillery underscores the appeal of the original moonshine. For starters, Twin Creeks owner and master distiller, Chris Prillman, is the grandson of Peg Hatcher, one of the kingpins convicted in the Great Moonshine Conspiracy of 1935. That’s one hell of a family legacy! As much as it sounds like an oxymoron, they serve legal moonshine – slightly less high-octane than the mountain variety and government-regulated. It’s the only establishment in the area to do so. And Chris continues to pay tribute to his grandfather by crafting spirits just as he did.

So when I say master distiller, I mean Chris is still making his “bathtub gin” – the colloquial term for stills that are large enough to be utilitarian and small enough to easily hide — at home. Whether he’s still using a bathtub, I don’t know. Back at the distillery, I sampled – okay, guzzled — a coffee moonshine made by a local coffee shop owner who still refuses to divulge his recipe that far and away surpasses any Expresso Martini I’ve ever had.

Flights of “cocktails” adorn the menu. Apparently, fancy cocktails were the norm during Prohibition as bartenders had to get creative in order to mask the taste of poor-quality liquor. Of course, Franklin County probably didn’t have any poor-quality hooch…..

More family legacy is carried on by Twin Creeks’ manager, Kathy, whose father owns three of the original moonshine cars that led to NASCAR, with enhanced power and extra-large trunks designed to transport the profitable product.

According to Steven Ray Tickle, another proud moonshining legacy and star of the surprisingly popular TV show Moonshiners, “People mistakenly think moonshiners just want to break the law, but that’s not true. They just want to carry on a tradition that’s part of the American heritage. They helped found and fund the Declaration of Independence….If you really love your country, you’re gonna have to love moonshine.”

So if you’re thinking that pretty much brings the story of moonshine to the current day, keep reading. On yet another modern-day front, Franklin County’s moonshine era may seem like a relic of Prohibition, but the legal arguments surrounding home distilling are still alive. More than a century after moonshiners in Virginia’s Blue Ridge battled federal liquor laws, the question of who can legally make whiskey — and under what authority the government can stop them — remains unsettled. In an unexpected twist, a debate that once played out on the ridges and hollows of Virginia’s moonshine country – very much still “The Moonshine Capital of the World” — may soon be argued before the U.S. Supreme Court. I’ll drink to that!

For more information, visit visitroanokeva.com; mainlymuseums.com; twincreeksdistillery.com.

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Known as “The Jewel” of San Diego, La Jolla is famous for its unique geography that combines rugged sandstone cliffs, hidden sea caves, and pristine beaches. But besides all of its natural beauty, the town is also home to the 113-year-old Grande Colonial, one of the most historic and charming hotels around. 

My family and I began a recent visit to the Grande Colonial by checking into a gorgeous suite overlooking the ocean and the round hotel pool. The rooms and suites maintain the same classic sophistication as the rest of the Colonial Revival-styled hotel. Each accommodation is outfitted with warm coastal décor, goose-down comforters, and luxury amenities. 

The rooms feature old fashioned windows that open to the sights and sounds of crashing waves just a block away. The windows also provide a perch for friendly seabirds, such as the big white seagull that stopped by our room for some bread crumbs. 

Outside the room, the hallways lead to more history, with a central outdoor balcony on each floor overlooking town, and old fire escape ladders on the side of the building. The story of this landmark began in 1913, when it opened as the Colonial Apartments and Hotel. Designed by architect Richard Requa, the original white, wood-framed structure quickly became a community cornerstone, famous for its pristine ocean-view sun parlor. 

When owner George Bane completed a massive renovation in 1928, the revamped hotel boasted ornate chandeliers, marble fireplaces, and leaded glass windows alongside groundbreaking infrastructure, including the first sprinkler system west of the Mississippi. Notably, the new design integrated a popular local pharmacy run by the father of a young soon-to-be actor named Gregory Peck.

Following World War II, the property earned a reputation as “Little Hollywood.” When local Gregory Peck co-founded the nearby La Jolla Playhouse in 1947, the hotel became the premier home-away-from-home for performing stars like Groucho Marx, Charlton Heston, David Niven, and Dorothy McGuire well into the late 1950s.

Stepping outside the hotel puts you right in the middle of the Village of La Jolla. During our stay, we grabbed burgers and ice cream for lunch at Burger Lounge, and then explored a myriad of interesting boutique shops throughout town. 

After window shopping we headed down to the waterfront. The Grande Colonial sits steps from La Jolla Cove, a spectacular small beach flanked by cliffs. Protected by an ecological preserve, the La Jolla Cove boasts a mild microclimate with comfortable year-round temperatures, making it a haven for swimming, scuba diving, and snorkeling. It is also famously home to resident sea lions and harbor seals that love sunning themselves on the rocks. Just nearby, a walk along the seawall at the Children’s Pool offers gorgeous, sweeping views of the Pacific coastline.

After a day at the beach we returned to the Grande Colonial hungry and ready for dinner at NINE-TEN Restaurant, the property’s signature dining spot. Led by nationally recognized Chef Jason Knibb and Pastry Chef Jose Alonzo III, the MICHELIN Guide Distinction destination delivers an evolving California coastal menu rooted in a farm-to-table philosophy. Utilizing fresh products from local providers like Chino Farms, the daily offerings feature fresh seafood arriving from Hawaii and the North Pacific. 

Highlights from our dinner included house-made sourdough country bread; Hamachi sashimi with marinated baby shiitake mushrooms in a scallion vinaigrette; and grilled prime ribeye, with golden thread mushrooms, torpedo onions, mushroom butter, onion flowers, shaved asparagus, and sherry vinaigrette. Other menu standouts include smoked Liberty duck breast, and a Jamaican jerk pork belly served with Swiss chard, plantains, and a spicy jelly. 

Because we were hotel guests we enjoyed a 10% discount on food and beverages at the restaurant.

If you are planning your own escape, the hotel is currently running two notable promotional packages:

• Limited-Time Advance Purchase Offer: Save 15% off best available rates on select dates through July 9th when booking ahead. This deal includes a complimentary waiver of the $45 nightly hospitality service charge, covering your valet parking and added guest amenities.
• Suite Land of Liberty Escape: Celebrating America’s 250th anniversary, this package features spacious ocean- or garden-view suites (some equipped with full kitchens and fireplaces). It includes a reduced $25 nightly hospitality charge, a $50 daily dining credit for NINE-TEN or room service, two welcome cocktails, complimentary valet parking, daily fitness club passes, and a self-guided walking tour of the hotel’s rich history. Guests can also enjoy the heated outdoor pool, complimentary beach gear (chairs, umbrellas, towels), and one hour of complimentary electric bicycle rentals to cruise the coastline.

The Grande Colonial Hotel is located at 910 Prospect Street, La Jolla, CA 92037. The hotel also offers 5,000 sq-ft of indoor and outdoor event space, in-room dining and spa treatments, concierge-arranged ocean activities; airport shuttles and more. For more information and reservations, call (888) 828-5498 or visit: www.thegrandecolonial.com

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Despite his dream of building a capital city along the banks of the Potomac River and unlike the real estate cliché “George Washington slept here,” America’s first president never once laid his head down on a pillow within the District of Columbia, aka Washington, DC. The closest he ever got was a good night’s sleep at his homestead in nearby Mount Vernon, VA.

Some 228 years later, our nation’s capital welcomes more than 22 million visitors a year. A world-class city embedded with a vibrant history, spectacular monuments, outstanding museums, plentiful parks, lush gardens and exceptional chef-driven cuisine, Washington, DC is well worth a visit. But, don’t just take my word for it, join me as I take the lens cap off and document this monumental city originally planned by Pierre L’Enfant.

For starters, there’s the Smithsonian Institution, a collection of 19 massive, artifacts-filled museums and galleries and the National Zoo, many standing shoulder-to-shoulder on either side of the two-mile long National Mall, “America’s front yard.” Art, history — natural and chronicled — science, and red-white-and-blue ingenuity to rocket into space, are all on display inside these titanic buildings. And, the best part? Entry is absolutely free for we, the people.

Bookending the Mall is the Capitol Building at the eastern end, where the legislative branches of government apply their checks and balances atop old Jenkins’ Hill, and the awe-inspiring Lincoln Memorial, where Honest Abe sits in deep contemplation at the western edge along the banks of the Potomac. And, smack dab in the middle of it all stands the Washington Monument, a 555-foot marble obelisk — the tallest structure in the District — honoring the “Father of His Country” that’s encircled by 56 American flags, one for each state along with the five territories and the District of Columbia.

Our historical walk around the Mall also includes a bevy of memorials: Jefferson, Vietnam and Korean War Veterans, Martin Luther King, Jr., FDR and World War II. Join the lengthy queue to get inside the National Archives to view John Hancock’s John Hancock on the Declaration of Independence, along with the Constitution of the United States and the Bill of Rights. Book way in advance for access to the National Museum of African American History and Culture, the newest venue on the Mall. Spend an entire day exploring the myriad of exhibitions at the National Galleries of Art and Portrait. Reach for the sky and the stars beyond at the National Air and Space Museum. And, stop long enough to smell the plant life inside the US Botanic Garden.

The United States is a cultural melting pot and its capital reflects the nation’s sea-to-shining-sea international roots. Heavily influenced by Egyptian, Greek, Roman, medieval European and 19th-century French architecture, wherever you look, especially up, you’ll see an abundance of tall columns, massive domes and the occasional flying buttress. From the White House to the U.S. Capitol, from the Washington Monument to the Library of Congress, from Union Station to the National Cathedral, a simple stroll around architecturally impressive DC alone is well worth the airfare. Right?

The District’s a showcase of American performance arts and is home to such iconic venues as the National Theatre and the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts.

In the early 20^th century, jazz music had a dizzying effect here as DC natives, like Duke Ellington, played the night away on stages up and down famed U Street. Years later, homegrown go-go, a blend of funk, R&B and hip-hop set the beat around clubs and out on the street.

And, let’s not forget that John Philip Souza came marching down Pennsylvania Avenue at the dawn of the 1900s leading the Marine Corps Band, the oldest musical group in the US. Today, Souza’s iconic march music is one of the highlights at the annual A Capitol Fourth, the national Independence Day celebration that unfolds at twilight on the West Lawn of Capitol Hill.

The White House, Congress and the Supreme Court, the three pillars of the US government, all punch their clocks here, while the Pentagon, the State Department, the World Bank and embassies from almost every corner of the globe float around their orbit. Power, those that carry it and those eager to wrestle it away, is why DC emits such a 24/7/365 buzz. Can you feel it?

Washingtonians, all 700,000+ of them, know full well the difference between the city itself and the District of Columbia, aka “inside the beltway.”

Beyond the high profile attractions, the politics, the leaks, the lobbying and the “fake news,” the city, all 68 square miles of it, is made up of small, distinctive neighborhoods where normal folk live and breathe. Here, restaurants, cafes, bars and nightclubs are hopping; Ubers are hailed and bicycles and electric scooters are shared via smartphone apps, and one of the cleanest metro systems in the world moves the populace quickly; and, where friends share a laugh, like my DC-based fam, on colorful row-house front porches or on terraces atop apartment complexes with fab views of their fair city spread out below.

While we’re here, let’s grab some cutlery and tuck in to one of the country’s hottest food scenes. The District is a can’t-miss epicurean destination touted by the likes of Bon Appétit, the Michelin Guide and Zagat, and where celebrity chefs like José Andrés, Tim Ma and Marjorie Meek-Bradley conjure up their culinary wizardry.

From food magazine-worthy dishes created and plated at coveted tables around Penn Quarter, to local favorite half-smokes served at a 24-hour diner up in Adams Morgan, to one-stop grazing at foodie mecca Union Market, just about every kitchen on the planet is represented within DC.

Regardless of your crave, one thing’s for certain: it’s all delectable no matter where you dine. Uh, I’ll have the Maryland crab cake sandwich topped with crispy bacon, please.

With loads of attractions and activities for every visitor, budget-minded and value-added, Washington, DC is teeming with a good-time vibe. Affording unmatched free access to museums, monuments and memorials and one-of-a-kind events, like the National Cherry Blossom Festival, not to mention five pro sports teams — Redskins, Nationals, Wizards, Capitals and DC United — the District is in a class all by itself.

Washington, DC, America’s monumental city that our first commander-in-chief envisioned, is all grown up now. I’m just happy that you let me show you around.

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Celebrating America’s Semiquincentennial Birthday

These are among examples of activities being planned, and undertaken, to celebrate the 250^th anniversary of the founding of the United States on July 4, 2026. They recall the moment when the Founding Fathers, who had gathered in Philadelphia, declared independence of the 13 American colonies from Great Britain. 

This historic event is being recognized in Virginia, where Jamestown was established in 1607 as the first permanent English settlement in the New World. The Massachusetts Plymouth Colony, which was created in 1620.  And Maryland, founded by Lord Baltimore in 1632.

Solemn and serious activities will recall America’s 250^th anniversary

These and other states, and cities, have planned a year-long list of festivities to recognize and honor this special birthday.  Some will be solemn and serious, others less so. All will attract people from near and far  who are seeking to recall and commemorate the nation’s birth, and its past accomplishments. Wherever you live, whatever your interests there’s likely to be a choice of exciting, and educational, events that you may wish to take in.

Philadelphia will be a hub of celebration of the Unites States special birthday

Those activities in Philadelphia were kicking off a year-long party.  At the Museum of the American Revolution, located just steps away from Independence Hall, immersive galleries, interactive exhibits and theater experiences relate compelling stories of the people and complex events that helped to spark the American rebellion.

Celebration of the birth of the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps in the self-proclaimed City of Brotherly Love got underway this fall with a parade of ships along the Delaware River, a Toast to the Navy gala, and a gathering at the tavern which was the birthplace of the Marine Corps.

States also will get into the action. A web-based hub has been posted which helps residents of, and visitors to, Delaware locate sites associated with the semiquincentennial remembrance. It includes a three-day Revolutionary War driving itinerary; a calendar of events listing special exhibitions and other related activities, and an overview of places with strong ties to the Revolutionary War. Among these are Cooch’s Bridge, sight of the only significant military action in the state, and the Grand Opera House, former site of a hospital that treated wounded from both sides during the fighting.

Massachusetts offers an immersion in early American history

A road trip through Massachusetts is like an immersion in history. That state kicked off its fetes by reliving the Battle of Lexington when – on April 19, 1775 – the British sent 700 soldiers from Boston to destroy ammunition and other supplies and the town’s militia confronted them, leaving eight colonists dead. George Washington then wrote “The first blood was spilt,” and the American Revolutionary War had begun.

After Lexington, the British marched to Concord to ransack more military equipment. Among displays at that town’s museum is the iron-and-glass lantern that Paul Revere famously carried during his “midnight ride,” which is recalled in the familiar poem written by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. 

Events in Philadelphia and along the Delaware River recalling and recounting the genesis of the U.S. Navy aren’t the only water-related activities planned. American Cruise Lines, the largest river cruise company in the country, will launch an array of extended sailings throughout the year in honor of the nation’s founding. They will include Great United States, Spring Across America and Civil War Battlefields itineraries.  

Whether you prefer to wander by water, mull over museum displays or check out places where important chapters of U.S. history were written, numerous opportunities will abound throughout the country to celebrate the nation’s special birthday.

For information about 250^th anniversary events throughout the United States, log onto america250.org.

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On the side of a brick building, at the corner of E 7th St and North Arizona Ave, a mural greeted me. This particular block of North Arizona was more of an alley than a street. It was open to cars, with a few parking spaces at an angle to the alley, but the short block was better experienced on foot.

Beginning at the mural — Greetings from Tucson, it said — any aimless drifter could wobble dreamily down the alley, past streams of ants, weeds, splotches of motor oil and a yard of broken air conditioning parts toward the best speakeasy pizza joint anywhere. Street art and ghost signs were included in the pilgrimage.

One block, this alley. That’s it. No more was necessary.

I started at the mural, a tourist attraction painted in 2017 by Greetings Tour, an outfit started by muralist Victor Ving and photographer Lisa Beggs, who traveled across the country painting postcard-style murals in various cities.

Across 7th St, a sprawling sports restaurant with a thousand televisions, a huge patio and pickleball courts blasted “All Star” by Smash Mouth-an unsettling hellish combo of everything I didn’t want to experience. Instead, I needed a dingy, hidden side street that nobody would possibly write about, or even think about. My speakeasy pizza waited.

I shuffled up the alley, inspired by a passage from the foreword to Tucson Salvage, a book by local columnist Brian Jabas Smith. Tucson was an outpost for the lost and weary, a sanctuary for misfits, miscreants and misers. These days, even tourism professionals used phrases like “Don’t Fit Right In,” branding the city as a place where people just don’t fit right in. However, Smith was better than anyone else at capturing this original desert slacker town, his home town, a place to which he never wanted to return, but did. Tucson Salvage, his anthology of alt-weekly newspaper columns, was the definitive guide to the gritty underbelly of the whole sweltering mess.

On one hand, it was only 92 degrees, manageable for Tucson. The concussive blast-furnace weather had not yet arrived – this was May, after all – yet the heat became part of the experience. The sun-parched asphalt was cracked in a hundred places. To my left was a dumpster. Along the opposite building, yellow weeds grew at the bottom of a chain-link fence topped with circular barbed wire, bent in several places. Streams of large ants crawled in single-file fashion toward some unidentifiable destination beneath the weeds. Steps later, I saw more dumpsters, along with cars, all of which seemed haphazardly dropped onto the asphalt from above. They sat in front of another gorgeous monochromatic mural, a black and white image in a pulp southwestern style.

Opposite me, right where another back alley came off 6th Ave and ran behind brick buildings, I spotted a yard of broken equipment. Air conditioning ducts. A pallet of bricks. Ripped fiberglass. It was a glorious view. I sensed beauty in the mundane, the Zen of the forgotten and the discarded.

Just as Phil Cousineau wrote, “the art of pilgrimage is the art of reimagining how we walk, talk, listen, see, hear, write, and draw as we ready for the journey of our soul’s deep desire. Try and see your next journey as more than an itinerary, to see it rather as the slow accretion of details.”

And that I did, as the sun continued to fry the pavement. Throughout my visit, locals told me to carry a water bottle. Some janky storefronts even kept a multi-gallon water receptacle out on the sidewalk, perhaps on a chair, just for homeless people, or anyone, to walk up and fill their bottles. The sense of community-people looking out for each other-was prominent. I loved it.

At the end of the alley, as it dumped onto East 6th St, I arrived at the Promised Land, my new favorite speakeasy pizza restaurant. A cozy joint offering wood-fired, sourdough-crust pizzas with an emphasis on local ingredients, Anello was its name. The best thing? Anello did not have a sign. Nowhere. This was intentional. Just look for the red light above the window, I was told. I arrived before dusk, so the light wasn’t on yet. But I found the place.

Oddly enough, Tucson was the first city in the United States to become a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. Wait, what? Yes, it’s true. In 2015. So now the food scene was something to brag about.

Inside Anello, there was room for maybe 25 people, half of which were at a long, community table in the middle of the tiny space, where I plopped down right next to several others I didn’t know. A great idea. Within seconds we were talking about all sorts of stuff. Behind the counter, employees toiled away at a classic wood-fired oven from Italy. Waitstaff answered questions about the wine list. A takeout window opened up into the alley, which I had completely missed.

‘The Verde pizza came with smoked mozzarella, a parsley puree and tons of pistachios. I added pepperoni. It was perfect. Just perfect.

Anello was small. Very small. In all the right ways. The bathroom included a small bookshelf where food tomes held court. Another great idea.

The Promised Land of Speakeasy Pizza was worth the short stroll through the garbage, the ants, the dirt, the grime and the weeds. UNESCO knew what it was doing. My longing was fulfilled.

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My getaway began at the historic 1927 Winnedumah Hotel, where a couple friends and I met Cindy and Derek Abrahams, the property’s general managers. They told me about the fascinating history surrounding the Winnedumah and set me up in the Bing Crosby suite. That’s right, I stayed in the same room that the legendary actor/crooner stayed in while he was in town filming or sneaking away from Hollywood.

Vintage and charming, the Crosby suite features two rooms that share a Jack and Jill bathroom. The suite has a 1920s décor, with classic hard wood floors and furniture, metal framed beds and period-era bathroom fixtures.

There are no televisions in the hotel rooms, but the serenity of the property, with its gentle creaking wood floors and crackling fireplace in the lobby, inspire relaxation, book reading, or conversation with friends, fellow guests from around the world, or with Cindy and Derek, who are knowledgeable about the area and treat guests like family.

“When people visit Independence and the Winnedumah Hotel, they are going to get an authentic, historic Eastern Sierra Nevada experience,” says Cindy. “This is the old west and we’ve got the mountains, the high desert and quintessential small town USA. And when you stay here, you get a very personal, boutique hotel experience.”

Independence is located off U.S. Route 395, the main north-south highway cutting through the Owens Valley. The tiny town is a gateway to outdoor havens such as the John Muir Wilderness Area and Kings Canyon/Sequoia National Parks. Hikers pass through while trekking the Pacific Crest Trail, or on their way up California’s two tallest peaks, Mt. Whitney and Mt. Williamson. Others stay at the Winnedumah Hotel for quieter experience while skiing in busy Mammoth. Whatever the reason, the hotel gets about 60 percent of its clientele from international travelers.

But many of the Winnedumah’s first visitors were local, coming by way of Hollywood. Numerous early westerns were filmed in nearby Lone Pine and the Alabama Hills. This brought the likes of Roy Rogers, Gary Cooper, Gabby Hayes, John Wayne and Bing Crosby to the newly built Winnedumah Hotel. Wayne had a favorite room at the hotel and when Crosby visited, he was given the room above the managers’ suite so they could hear him sing in the shower. Even famed California photographer Ansel Adams sought comfort at the property while on photo shoots.

The hotel lobby still has the original 1892 piano that Bing used to sit at and sing as well as other furnishings from the 1920’s, including the overstuffed chairs in the lobby and the steel mesh chairs on the front porch which can be seen in Roy Roger’s first movie “Under Western Stars.”

Besides the Winnedumah, the town also boasts one restaurant, a sandwich shop and a taco truck. For culture there is the Eastern California Museum, located a couple blocks from the hotel. After a complimentary buffet breakfast at the hotel, we walked to the museum and discovered an incredible collection of beautiful, hand-crafted Native American baskets.

The display is one of the largest exhibits of local Paiute-Shoshone basketry in the nation. Ornamental and functional baskets, along with cradleboards, projectile points, bows and arrows, and rare examples of Paiute beadwork are included in the extensive exhibit. The basket exhibit includes more than 400 pieces and nearly 100 other, related artifacts, and is contained in about 14 large display cases.

The museum also showcases a large collection of historic photographs, Owens Valley history, scores of old west guns, and extensive mining and farming equipment and historic structures found outside in the museum yard. There is also lovely creek and pond outside, with majestic views of the Eastern Sierra mountains in the background.

Directly across from the Winnedumah Hotel is the iconic Independence Courthouse, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. In 1969 the courthouse held 24 members of the Manson Family for possession of stolen vehicles and property.

About five miles south of Independence, at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, is Manzanar War Relocation Center, where Japanese-Americans were held during World War II. Visitors to this historic and somber site will find a Visitor Center with extensive exhibits, a short film and a bookstore. There are also two reconstructed barracks, a women’s latrine, and a mess hall onsite.

About three miles northwest of Independence is the Mt. Whitney Fish Hatchery. Built in 1916, it has supplied trout eggs to other hatcheries in California and other western states. It is the only hatchery to produce golden trout, California’s state fish.

If You Go:

Independence

Winnedumah Hotel or call (760) 878-2040.

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