n hindsight none of the trees in the forest had any bullet holes. The encircling landscape had no shell craters, and the verdantly green fields on the left of the road that rolled away into the distance and looked like a priceless Monet masterpiece, were similarly devoid of any destruction. There was no sign of a ferocious battle. Do you ever have fleeting flashes where you momentarily forget the reality of the moment? I mean how could something so violent that took place here in 1917 leave no trace? However, in the nearly 100 years from then to now, the sands of time had made most of the actual horror of war disappear.

As our cozy SUV, occupied by 6 American travel writers, dawdled along the peaceful rural area road in the Lorraine region of France in the middle of 2004, our guide gave no indication of the dramatic attraction that lay several kilometers ahead. The weather also probably lulled us into an almost dreamlike trance, as it was what tourist brochures might portray as "Radiantly blue skies complemented by a sun blessed day of enjoyment and happiness."

We were on the D907 road from Saint-Mihiel to Apremont-la-Foret, and were in what seemed like the midpoint of nowhere when we slowed down, turned off to the right and drove and bumped along a deeply rutted track. Almost in reverent tones we heard our guide say, "We're about to show you a sight that few people know about, and quite possibly a location that fewer tourists ever get to see. You might even say it's a secret."

It was a virtually "untouched" and clearly visible German trench from WW1. A mini forest of thin, tall trees surrounded us. Close at hand on the right, we saw the moss covered concrete sides of what had been several German trenches. Grass and weeds had overgrown just about everything, including a small sort of protruding column that was a machine gun nest. Across there further to the right, the trench snaked through the forest in a zig zag fashion and on out of our view. I was absolutely mesmerized by it all, as I'd never seen anything like it anywhere.

This is the German WW1 trench in Lorraine

Although it was a lovely sunny day, my mind drifted back to 1917 when these trenches were filled with German soldiers fighting for their lives. The smell of cordite wafted up my nostrils, and the whizzing sound of bullets and the loud staccato whine of machine guns, convinced me I'd be killed any second. I was scared.

Then a loud voice interrupted my reverie and said, "Over there, you'll see one of the French trenches." Just as my vivid imagination had taken hold seconds before, the reality of where I actually was hit home like the proverbial ton of bricks. Not more than 60 yards away, I could see the remains of French trenches – they were only mildly interesting as they were a re-creation. The German ones were the real thing.

This is the fake, reconstructed French trench. The German one is the ACTUAL, real one from WW1.

Thinking about what an exclusive attraction this is, I was mystified by the fact there were no signs publicizing it on the road we'd traveled. If this had been in the USA there would have been billboards and wonderfully evocative illustrations of what lay hidden several hundred yards off the road. That may have changed, as I visited in 2004. Even so, if you're in this area of Lorraine find this place. It's mesmerizing.

It seems incredible, but these two tiny signs are the only publicity about what John describes in his story. As can be seen, there are trees everywhere, thus making these very small signs hard to see. One can only wonder WHY such a fascinating exhibit as this genuine German trench is given such minimal PR.

CONTACT INFO. Go online and check out the names and places I've mentioned, and DO go online to us.franceguide.com

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