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		<title>Exploring the Balkans and Central Europe</title>
		<link>https://travelingboy.com/travel/exploring-the-balkans-and-central-europe/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[James Boitano]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Nov 2023 03:54:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[World Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Balkans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Brno]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Central Europe]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>I’ve spent much of my life first 17 years of life dreaming about the boulevards of Provence and street cafes of Paris. I ended up instead as an exchange student in industrial town in the coal and steel region of in Lorraine, France. But that didn’t daunt my love of travel.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/exploring-the-balkans-and-central-europe/">Exploring the Balkans and Central Europe</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h5 class="has-text-align-right wp-block-heading">By Jim Boitano, Photographs by Vanja Stegic.</h5><p class="has-drop-cap">I have spent much of my life first 17 years of life dreaming about the boulevards of Provence and street cafes of Paris. I ended up instead as an exchange student in an industrial town in the coal and steel region of in Lorraine, France. But that didn’t daunt my love of travel.</p><p>I’ve returned to Europe a couple dozen times since, returning nearly every year to add a new country or destination to my list. In the spring of 2023 I hit a personal goal: to visit every sovereign country in Europe. The last one on the list was Portugal (via the island of Madeira).</p><p> Now that I’ve hit the 4 corners, I’m trying to fill in the blanks. I’ve never been much of a London-Paris-Rome kind of guy, and would much rather find himself amidst the natives of an end-of-the road Dutch village or roaming through the border regions of Slovenia. With Paris, though, I generally make an exception.</p><p>Join me and my friend and photographer, Vanja, as we explore the culture, history, cuisine, as we fill in some of the blanks in Croatia, Hungary, Slovakia and beyond.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" width="976" height="719" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Trip-map.png" alt="" class="wp-image-37250" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Trip-map.png 976w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Trip-map-300x221.png 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Trip-map-768x566.png 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Trip-map-850x626.png 850w" sizes="(max-width: 976px) 100vw, 976px" /><figcaption>The map is not intened to be a spoiler alert. It is intended to illustrate my journey, making it easy for readers follow mu schedule.</figcaption></figure><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Varaždin, Croatia</h2><p>Varaždin is a relatively small city with a population around 46,946, spread over 13.21 sq miles in Northern Croatia, close to the Drava River. It&#8217;s about an hour&#8217;s drive north of the capital city of Zagreb and best known for its baroque and rococo architecture, music and food. Its size was a perfect match for my off-the-beaten-path theme</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img decoding="async" width="628" height="472" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans2.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37121" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans2.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans2-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>After a few hours of harvesting, our family of friends treated us to lunch: veal, trout and vegetables baked in embers.It was a great day in the picturesque hills above Varaždin.</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Varaždin City Museum</h2><p>Varaždin City Museum was founded around 1925 in the premises of the fortress called &#8216;The Old Town.&#8217; The basic items of the first permanent exhibition were the objects given to the Museum by Varaždin families.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img decoding="async" width="628" height="472" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans3.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37122" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans3.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans3-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>The aim of Varaždin City Museum is to collect, keep and exhibit spiritual and material heritage of Varaždin region.</figcaption></figure></div><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="628" height="472" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans4.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37100" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans4.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans4-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>The holdings at the museum eventually grew larger and richer, ultimately transitioning into a complex made up of six specialized departments: Archeological, History, Culture and History, Ethnographical, Entomological Departments and the Gallery of Old and Contemporary Masters</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Budapest, Hungary</h2><p class="has-drop-cap">Straddling the Danube River, Budapest is Hungary&#8217;s illustrious capital. It is a treasure trove of history, culture, and natural beauty. Renowned for its remarkable architecture, relaxing thermal baths, and flavorful cuisine.</p><p>Hungarian dishes often include fruits, such as plums and apricots, cooked with meat or in piquant sauces/stuffings for game, roasts and other cuts. Various kinds of noodles, dumplings, potatoes, and rice are commonly served as a side dish. Hungarian dry sausages (kolbász) and winter salami are also widely eaten. And then there is Goulash, or as Hungarians call it, gulyás, means “herdsman.” &nbsp;Its origins date back to the 9th century Magyar shepherds as a simple meat and onion stew prepared in heavy iron kettles known as bogracs. &nbsp;The national drink of Hungary is Pálinka, a very strong traditional spirit made of many different types of fruit.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter"><img decoding="async" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans17.jpg" alt="This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Balkans17.jpg"/><figcaption>Budapest is one of the most majestic and impressive cities I have ever visited. I wish I could spend <br>a month here to explore it. The city is magnificent!</figcaption></figure></div><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter"><img decoding="async" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans18.jpg" alt="This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Balkans18.jpg"/><figcaption>The Dohany Street Synagogue &amp; Memorial of the Hungarian Jewish Martyrs is the largest synagogue in <br>Europe.</figcaption></figure></div><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter"><img decoding="async" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans19.jpg" alt="This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Balkans19.jpg"/><figcaption>The Budapest Central Market.</figcaption></figure></div><p>In the 15th century, invading Ottoman Turks introduced a new spice to Hungary, paprika. &nbsp;While the rest of Europe remained lukewarm towards this red chili pepper from the New World, Hungary embraced it and paprika has since become a defining element of Hungarian cuisine. Made from peppers that are locally harvested and then sorted, toasted, and blended to create different varieties. The Hungarian paprika marketed in the US &nbsp;is usually the édesnemes variety, which is “noble&#8221; sweet, slightly pungent and bright red. &nbsp;</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter is-resized"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans20.jpg" alt="This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Balkans20.jpg" width="628" height="472"/><figcaption>The Hungarian Parliament Building is considered one of the defining landmarks of Budapest. Located on the Pest side of the city, on the eastern bank of the Danube, it was designed by Hungarian architect&nbsp;Imre Steindl in a neo-Gothic style. Since its opening in 1902,&nbsp;It has been the largest building in Hungary..</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Ptuj, Slovenia</h2><p>We detoured to Ptuj and Ehrenhausen, then back to Varazdin.</p><p>Ptuj, the oldest recorded city in Slovenia, has been inhabited since the late Stone Age and developed from a Roman military fort.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter"><img decoding="async" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans7.jpg" alt="This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Balkans7.jpg"/><figcaption>Ptuj&#8217;s name in Latin, Poetovio, sounds a bit less like spitting.</figcaption></figure></div><p>Attractions include, the Ptuj Castle, home to the Ptuj Ormoz Regional Museum&nbsp;which features everything from instruments and arms to traditional masks and striking tapestries; the Dominican and Minorite Monasteries; and the Orpheus Monument, a well-preserved Roman tombstone.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Ehrenhausen, Austria</h2><p>The mausoleum in  Ehrenhausen might be the most significant mark that the Eggenbergs left in the city. They are several buildings where you can spot the family&#8217;s coat of arms. Most importantly, Ehrenhausen is also the site of the Eggenberg&#8217;s main fortress. The 16th century building was one of Austria&#8217;s numerous fortifications that secured the South and the East of the country against the Turks. Beyond mausoleum and fortress, don&#8217;t miss out on the parish church, a typically Austrian mix of styles. The charming market square invites visitors to stroll around and explore the village.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="628" height="472" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans6.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37102" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans6.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans6-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>Just a little rainy day side trip to Austria, then back to Croatia (with a narrow strip of Slovenia in between). The three countries are all in the same border agreement so there are no actual passport controls when you cross the borders.</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Back to Varaždin in time for dinner</h2><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter is-resized"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans5.jpg" alt="This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Balkans5.jpg" width="628" height="472"/><figcaption>Lovely farewell dinner in <strong>Varaždin </strong>with my new and old Croatian and Bosnian friends.</figcaption></figure></div><p>Varaždinsko zelje is an autochthonous variety of cabbage traditionally grown in Varaždin County. The most important property of this cabbage variety is that it can withstand cold winter weather. <br>It has a bitter and sharp flavor and pungent smell. Because its leaves are durable and elastic, it is traditionally used in recipes that require longer cooking time, such as cabbage soup or braised cabbage with bacon or beef.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Brno, Slovakia</h2><p>Brno is a stately city and lies in the Moravia region. It is the country&#8217;s second largest city and serves as the traditional capital of Moravia.  It feels very cosmopolitan after sleepier and more rural Slovakia. </p><figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Brno2-1024x768.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37456" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Brno2-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Brno2-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Brno2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Brno2-850x638.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Brno2.jpg 1080w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /><figcaption>I was actually here 23 years ago in 2000, so it was nice to return after so many years.</figcaption></figure><p>Despite the ravages of past wars, many of Brno&#8217;s historic buildings have survived, including the churches of St. Thomas and St. James and the Gothic church of the Augustinian monastery.&nbsp;Tugendhat House (1930), designed by architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site&nbsp;in 1992. The old town&#8217;s narrow streets are surrounded by an array of grand boulevards.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Prague, Czech Republic</h2><p>Greetings from Czechia! We used to say &#8216;Czech Republic&#8217; but it is now preferred we use the proper name Czechia. That&#8217;s ok by me.</p><p>Prague, capital city of the Czech Republic, is bisected by the Vltava River. Nicknamed &#8220;the City of a Hundred Spires,&#8221; it&#8217;s known for its Old Town Square, the heart of its historic core. It is nothing less than a Disneyland Fairy Tale city!.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full is-resized"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans9.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37105" width="629" height="473" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans9.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans9-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 629px) 100vw, 629px" /><figcaption>Pilsner Urquell is the world&#8217;s first pale lager. It has become a&nbsp;legend amongst beers, and has created a&nbsp;completely new category of beer (Pils, Pilsner). Neither the recipe nor the brewing process has changed since it was first made in 1842.</figcaption></figure></div><p>The beer acquires its characteristic aroma of malt grains and a balanced caramel taste through triple mashing. The soft Pilsen artisan water lends it a unique, delicate taste, while the Žatec hops gives it a  velvety bitterness. And the malt itself finishes the beer in a golden color.</p><p>Beer drinking is ingrained in Czech culture, society and history. So much so, that the beer industry is considered a part of the national heritage<strong>.</strong></p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="628" height="472" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans10.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37106" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans10.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans10-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>Prague&#8217;s Old Town Square is endowed, with colorful baroque buildings, Gothic churches and the medieval Astronomical Clock, which gives an animated hourly show.</figcaption></figure></div><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="628" height="472" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans11.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37107" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans11.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans11-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>The Charles Bridge is a medieval stone and arch bridge, lined with statues of Catholic saints, and is often on the top of many tourists&#8217; to do lists. As the only means of crossing the river Vltava until 1841, Charles Bridge served as the most important connection between Prague Castle&nbsp;and the city&#8217;s Old Town</figcaption></figure></div><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="628" height="836" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans12.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37108" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans12.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans12-225x300.jpg 225w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>A popular pilgrimage site. The&nbsp;Shrine of the Infant Jesus of Prague, also referred to as The Church of Our Lady of Victories<strong>,</strong> is home to the famed statue, the&nbsp;Infant Jesus of Prague. <br><br><img decoding="async" src="https://qph.cf2.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-27e943f0ec1abb06d05a4b25de3e619c"><br><br>The statue, which originated in Spain, is a 16th-century representation of infant Child Jesus&nbsp;holding a globus cruciger; Latin for &#8216;cross-bearing orb.  Photograph courtesy of Vojta Rod, via Wikimedia Commons.</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Zakopane is Poland</h2><p>Zakopane is Poland&#8217;s main alpine destination and a major tourist center. It&#8217;s a festive place, teeming with happy visitors.</p><figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/381270340_6827140297306768_6528773417709790881_n.jpg?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&amp;_nc_cat=104&amp;ccb=1-7&amp;_nc_sid=5f2048&amp;_nc_ohc=rlAekfHMb7UAX9kLr7Q&amp;_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&amp;oh=00_AfDxQj-tb61xuNGOKhnrDac0tW6Nl_VfxMSsGi9oZpDk0w&amp;oe=655CEE78" alt="May be an image of 5 people and street"/><figcaption>Zakopane proved to be a fun diversion and brought back some very warm and happy memories from 2012 when my dear Polish friend Marek Ordyczyski from Lezajsk, generously took me here with his family.</figcaption></figure><p>When we set off this morning, we had no idea we would find ourselves in Poland later that day. That was certainly not on the itinerary. But the gorgeous Slovak Tatra mountains pulled us in and we just kept going north. And suddenly we were in the equally stunning but much more lively Polish side of the high Tatras.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Žilina, Slovakia</h2><p>Žilina is a city in north-western Slovakia, around 120 miles from the capital Bratislava, close to both the Czech and Polish borders. It is the fourth largest city of Slovakia with a population of approximately 80,000. The name is derived from Slavic/Slovak word žila &#8211; a &#8220;(river) vein. :Žilina means &#8220;a place with many watercourses.&#8221;</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="628" height="472" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans14.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37110" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans14.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans14-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>After out happy detour to Poland, we were back on Slovakia for the night. Žilina was a good choice and one of its very pretty little cities. Quite unintentionally, we had visited Slovakia&#8217;s second, third and now fourth largest cities today all in a row.</figcaption></figure></div><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="628" height="472" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans15.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37111" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans15.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Balkans15-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>We tried to visit the beautiful Ukrainian city of Uzhhorod today for a safe little day trip. The city is supposed to be stunning and lies right on the border with Slovakia. But the main border crossing would not let us walk across the border (we couldn&#8217;t take our rental car). And the other border crossing 25 miles to the north (which did allow pedestrians) was in the middle of nowhere and seriously gave us the creeps.</figcaption></figure></div><p>So, no Ukraine today. But the scenery in the extreme east of Slovakia and the Carpathian Mountains made for a nice excursion anyway.</p><p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/exploring-the-balkans-and-central-europe/">Exploring the Balkans and Central Europe</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
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		<title>An Eastern Mediterranean Odyssey</title>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Ed Boitano]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Nov 2021 17:20:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[World Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[BOKA FJORD]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bridge of Sighs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Corfu]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Croatia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dubrovnik]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Harry’s Bar & Grill]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Helen of Troy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hemingway]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Homer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[HVAR]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[KOTOR]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[MALI LOŠINJ]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Molino Stucky Hilton]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Odysseus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Piazza San Marco]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[SANTORINI]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>In Homer's epic poem, The Odyssey, the mythical Greek character Odysseus builds a raft and attempts to return to his home island of Ithaca. But Odysseus' enemy, Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea, unleashes a storm and the raft is destroyed. Half-drowned, Odysseus washes ashore on the island of Corfu. He staggers into an olive grove and collapses.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/an-eastern-mediterranean-odyssey/">An Eastern Mediterranean Odyssey</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
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										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="547" height="365" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/a-photo-Star-Clipper.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27500" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/a-photo-Star-Clipper.jpg 547w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/a-photo-Star-Clipper-300x200.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 547px) 100vw, 547px" /><figcaption>The towering Star Clipper.</figcaption></figure></div><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="alignright size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="360" height="480" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/b-photo-Deb-on-ship.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27501" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/b-photo-Deb-on-ship.jpg 360w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/b-photo-Deb-on-ship-225x300.jpg 225w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 360px) 100vw, 360px" /><figcaption>Traveling Boy photographer, Deb Roskamp, takes time off to climb the Star Clipper&#8217;s mast. Photo courtesy of John Dann.</figcaption></figure></div><p class="has-drop-cap">In Homer&#8217;s epic poem, The Odyssey, the mythical Greek character Odysseus builds a raft and attempts to return to his home island of Ithaca. But Odysseus&#8217; enemy, Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea, unleashes a storm and the raft is destroyed. Half-drowned, Odysseus washes ashore on the island of Corfu. He staggers into an olive grove and collapses.</p><p>My arrival on Corfu was a slightly different experience. Poseidon must have been smiling for the seas were calm and shimmering. And my mode of transportation was the 360 feet long luxury sailing vessel the Star Clipper &#8211; whose Tropical Bar was always open.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Star Clipper</h2><p>Arriving on a sweltering summer day in Venice, the embarkation city for the Star Clipper, was similar to being at Disneyland on opening day. But who was I complain; after all I was a tourist too, and Venice demands a visit from each and everyone one of us. I took comfort in the shade at Piazza San Marco, the epicenter of Venice, complete with pigeons and musicians. A look at my map illustrated the enthralling journey before me. Soon, I was refreshed and on my way, but at a rather slow pace.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1000" height="736" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/C-photo-Piazza_San_Marco_Venice-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27530" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/C-photo-Piazza_San_Marco_Venice-1.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/C-photo-Piazza_San_Marco_Venice-1-300x221.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/C-photo-Piazza_San_Marco_Venice-1-768x565.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/C-photo-Piazza_San_Marco_Venice-1-850x626.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption>Napoleon I called Piazza San Marco the “drawing room of Europe.&#8221; Photograph courtesy of Tiia Monto via Wikimedia Commons.</figcaption></figure><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1000" height="750" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/D-photo-Bridge-of-Sighs-Venice-Italy.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27527" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/D-photo-Bridge-of-Sighs-Venice-Italy.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/D-photo-Bridge-of-Sighs-Venice-Italy-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/D-photo-Bridge-of-Sighs-Venice-Italy-768x576.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/D-photo-Bridge-of-Sighs-Venice-Italy-850x638.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption>Prisoner&#8217;s last gasp of Venice from the Bridge of Sighs. Photograph courtesy of Rambling Traveler via Wikimedia Commons.</figcaption></figure></div><p class="has-drop-cap">By the time I reached the Bridge of Sighs, the crowd before it had grown so thick that (ironically) I could barely look  above their mandatory Venetian straw hats to get a glimpse of the famous window which prisoners would pass and take their final view of Venice before their descent into the darkness of the dungeons. A petite woman asked me to take a photo of the window with her camera; so she could actually see it later. Further along my walk I paid witness to the Doge&#8217;s Palace (home of the de facto ruler of Venice), took a Vaporetto cruise down the Grand Canal, and had a sampling of Venice&#8217;s famed seafood and risotto &#8211; which was different from the risotto I had consumed in Milan and Turino, who both claim its origin. Later in the afternoon, dressed rather inappropriately as a Yankee in shorts, I remembered that Harry&#8217;s Bar &amp; Grill was one of Hemingway&#8217;s favorite stomping grounds and decided to stroll in for a cocktail. A giant hand abruptly stopped my entrance: &#8220;No shorts!&#8221; &#8220;You&#8217;d let Hemingway in wearing shorts,&#8221; I replied. &#8220;Yes, but you are obviously not him.&#8221;<br></p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1000" height="625" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/D1-Venezia_Vaporetto_ACTV11_R03.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27526" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/D1-Venezia_Vaporetto_ACTV11_R03.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/D1-Venezia_Vaporetto_ACTV11_R03-300x188.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/D1-Venezia_Vaporetto_ACTV11_R03-768x480.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/D1-Venezia_Vaporetto_ACTV11_R03-850x531.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption>Vaporetto (waterbus) on the Canaledella Giudecca. Photograph courtesy of Marc Ryckaert via Wikimedia Commons.</figcaption></figure></div><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="551" height="369" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Swimmingpool.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27531" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Swimmingpool.jpg 551w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Swimmingpool-300x201.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 551px) 100vw, 551px" /><figcaption>View of the Venice Skyline from the Molino Stucky Hilton terrace and pool. Photograph by Deb Roskamp.</figcaption></figure></div><p>Earlier, the water taxi ride from the airport to the stunning Molino Stucky Hilton proved to be a glorious introduction to Venice. The 45-minute journey glided through the shallow marsh lands with stops at numerous islands. It provoked thoughts of the era when Venice, due to its strategic position of waterways between east and west for trade, was one of the strongest and most affluent empires in the world.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1000" height="664" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/E-Photo-800px-5489_-_Venezia_-_Ghetto_Vecchio_-_Insegna_di_negozio_ebraico_-_Foto_Giovanni_DallOrto_1-Aug-2008.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27525" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/E-Photo-800px-5489_-_Venezia_-_Ghetto_Vecchio_-_Insegna_di_negozio_ebraico_-_Foto_Giovanni_DallOrto_1-Aug-2008.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/E-Photo-800px-5489_-_Venezia_-_Ghetto_Vecchio_-_Insegna_di_negozio_ebraico_-_Foto_Giovanni_DallOrto_1-Aug-2008-300x199.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/E-Photo-800px-5489_-_Venezia_-_Ghetto_Vecchio_-_Insegna_di_negozio_ebraico_-_Foto_Giovanni_DallOrto_1-Aug-2008-768x510.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/E-Photo-800px-5489_-_Venezia_-_Ghetto_Vecchio_-_Insegna_di_negozio_ebraico_-_Foto_Giovanni_DallOrto_1-Aug-2008-850x564.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption>A Jewish shop in the former Ghetto in Venice by Giovanni Dall&#8217;Orto, Wikimedia Commons</figcaption></figure></div><p>But, I found a stop at another one of Venice&#8217;s connected islands particularly disturbing. Its former name Ghetto Vecchio (initially Ghèto) originated in Venice, from the copper foundry that existed on the island before the arrival of people of Jewish ancestry. By law,  Venetian Jews were relegated to live within the gated and walled area to segregate them from the surrounding Christian population in Venice. Jewish life has been restricted throughout the world for centuries, but the first use of the disdainful name was declared in Venice.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="768" height="1024" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/F-photo-Select_Spritz-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27529" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/F-photo-Select_Spritz-1.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/F-photo-Select_Spritz-1-225x300.jpg 225w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /></figure></div><p>At first, it seemed strange to me that I would be staying at a Hilton property in Venice, but that was before my eyes set on the palatial Molino Stucky Hilton, a former flour mill that has been painstakingly refurbished into a swank hotel, but still very much in the Venetian character. Luxuriating by the roof top pool, with Venice&#8217;s unforgettable city skyline in the distance, it occurred to me that I was experiencing something that even a Doge in all his glory would find unimaginable. Considered one of Venice&#8217;s newest landmarks, accommodations were both spacious and elegant. Trips to the Rialto Bar &amp; Lounge offered complimentary regional snacks, coffee and the Venetian mainstays of spritz, grappa and Prosecco. It was a wonderful venue to relax and refresh after a return on the hotel&#8217;s free shuttle boat that takes guests to Venice&#8217;s major attractions.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading"><br>MALI LOŠINJ, CROATIA</h2><p class="has-drop-cap">The Clipper departed for the first stop of my 11-day odyssey on the Croatian island of Mali Lošinj. The most low-key of all the ports, it was a good place to stretch your legs and take a swim in its waters among local Croat families and children. Simply siting on the water&#8217;s bedside and watching families frolic in a non-touristic area was what I most fondly remember.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading"><br>HVAR, CROATIA</h2><p>The idyllic island of Hvar is an oasis of lavender fields and ancient olive trees, once a getaway for the Romans. <em>Lavender season</em> is when the fields are covered in purple blossoms, and the air is filled with the exotic scent of the plant. There are two ports on the islands which both offer history as well as the culture of today. My guide informed me that it&#8217;s still popular for the rich and famous, with some American computer billionaire named Bill recently vacationing there in his yacht.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1000" height="667" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/I-photo-Dubrovnik.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27523" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/I-photo-Dubrovnik.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/I-photo-Dubrovnik-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/I-photo-Dubrovnik-768x512.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/I-photo-Dubrovnik-850x567.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption> Vantage point of Old Town Dubrovnik&#8217;s famous red terra cotta roofs from 10th century wall.  Photograph courtesy of Deb Roskamp. </figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">DUBROVNIK, CROATIA</h2><p class="has-drop-cap">George Bernard Shaw was so enamored by Dubrovnik&#8217;s Old Town, that he once said &#8220;Those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik and see Dubrovnik.&#8221; Layered with 1,400 years of history, walking the entire distance of the 10th century Old Town wall is mandatory. Dubrovnik suffered considerable damage in the 1991/2 war known as the Siege of Dubrovnik, fought between the Yugoslav People&#8217;s Army (Serbia and Montenegro) and Croatian forces in their quest for independence. The bombing of Old Town &#8211; a UNESCO World Heritage Site &#8211; led to international condemnation, and became a public relations disaster for Serbia and Montenegro, contributing to their diplomatic and economic isolation on the world stage. Upon my arrival the city had been restored to its former glory, but it was easy to notice that many of Old Town&#8217;s famous red terra cotta roof tiles were a little irregular due to 70% of their destruction during this war. When the sun came down, a countless number of friendly youths poured into the Old Town for fun and excitement, including women &#8211; some over 6 ft. tall, not counting their towering high heels. Now I know how Napoleon must have felt.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">KOTOR, BOKA FJORD, MONTENEGRO</h2><p>Charming villages rested along the shore as we sailed deep into the heart of Boka Fjord, the largest fjord of the Mediterranean Sea. Four hours was not enough for the medieval town of Kotor, but long enough to know that I will return.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1000" height="667" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/J-photo-Corfu-Greece.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27522" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/J-photo-Corfu-Greece.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/J-photo-Corfu-Greece-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/J-photo-Corfu-Greece-768x512.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/J-photo-Corfu-Greece-850x567.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption>Corfu, an important site In Homer’s the&nbsp;<em>Odyssey</em>.  Photograph by Deb Roskamp.</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">CORFU, GREECE<br></h2><p>In Corfu, the lushest of all the Greek Islands, rests the village Paleocastrit. In Homer’s the&nbsp;<em>Odyssey</em>, it is the setting where Odysseus was washed ashore after 20-years abroad. Homer was a traveling blind poet whose two epic poems, the&nbsp;<em>Iliad</em>&nbsp;and the&nbsp;<em>Odyssey</em>, orally composed and conveyed around the late eighth or early seventh century BC, are considered the very foundation of ancient Greek literature. We were hungry for knowledge but our stomachs won out, choosing to enjoy the lofty site while sitting at a hillside café sipping Retsina and picking at small bites of spanakopita, xtapodi (octopus) and feta saganaki (pan fried feta cheese). My conversation with our photographer covered just how little we actually knew of Greek Mythology.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="800" height="533" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/K-photo-Sparta_from_Mystras_on_15_May_2019.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27517" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/K-photo-Sparta_from_Mystras_on_15_May_2019.jpg 800w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/K-photo-Sparta_from_Mystras_on_15_May_2019-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/K-photo-Sparta_from_Mystras_on_15_May_2019-768x512.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" /><figcaption>A view of Sparta from the vantage point of the Castle of Mystras, with Mount Parnon in the distance. Photograph courtesy of George E. Koronaios, Wikimedia Commons.</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Yithion &#8211; Sparta &#8211; Mystras, GREECE</h2><p><br>The next port of call was Yithion, once an ancient site and principal port of the Sparta. Now it&#8217;s a small town of about 5,000 citizens without any important touristic components. Our attempt at a better understanding of Greek Mythology told us it was where <em>Helen of Troy; Helen, Queen of Sparta; the most beautiful woman in the world </em>had been abducted by <em>Paris of Tro</em>y, leading to the Trojan War. The bus ride was long from the port to the once dominant military city-state in ancient Greece, and was disappointed to find that Sparta was buried a mile underground, covered with the ashes of time.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="796" height="962" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/frescoeSet.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27542" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/frescoeSet.jpg 796w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/frescoeSet-248x300.jpg 248w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/frescoeSet-768x928.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 796px) 100vw, 796px" /><figcaption>View of the Castle of Mystras and its frecoes. (Top) Photograph courtesy of Aeleftherios, Wikimedia Commons.<br>(Left bottom) Photo courtesy sailko via Wikimedia Commons; (right bottom) Photo courtesy of Joy of Museums.</figcaption></figure><p>Our final destination was the abandoned fortified town of Mystra for a look at Byzantine frescoes in 14th century churches. During its period of prosperity, the city attracted artists, architects and philosophers of the highest order.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="551" height="369" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/final.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27536" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/final.jpg 551w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/final-300x201.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 551px) 100vw, 551px" /><figcaption>Santorini rests in the most southern part of Aegean Sea. Photograph by Deb Roskamp.</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">SANTORINI, GREECE</h2><p><br>With villages built on tall cliffs, complete with white-washed churches and cobblestone streets leading to tavernas, Santorini is the archetypical Greek picture postcard island. In 1500 BC, a volcanic eruption destroyed the center of the island, leaving a crescent shaped rim of cliffs around the harbor. Santorini is actually a group of islands consisting of Thira, Thirassia, Aspronissi, Palea and Nea Kameni in the southernmost part of the Cyclades. For over 4,000 years, poets have sung its praises. In Greek Mythology, the eternal rock continues to stand majestically above the sea, guarding the secrets of Atlantis. </p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">MYKONOS, GREECE</h2><p>Someone on the vessel had clearly upset Poseidon, for the trip to Mykonos was cancelled due to rough seas. Many were disappointed, but we had been warned that this was the price one might pay when sailing a smaller vessel. The good news: another day to spend with my new friends. I think I read where Odysseus made a few friends on his odyssey too.</p><p></p><p></p><h1 class="wp-block-heading">Epilogue</h1><h2 class="wp-block-heading">That Was Venice Then and This is Venice Today</h2><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="850" height="567" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/final-photo-Venice.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-27515" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/final-photo-Venice.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/final-photo-Venice-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/final-photo-Venice-768x512.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption> Photo courtesy of Venezia Autentica/Sebastian Fagarazzi.</figcaption></figure></div><p>Overtourism, the result of having too many visitors arrive at a place at the same time, has become a major problem for popular destinations like Venice.</p><p>Cheaper international airfares, the growth of the cruise market, and the emergence of cheap accommodation options such as Airbnb are fueling the overtourism phenomenon. Venice, in particular, but not exclusively, is feeling the effects, struggling to cope with the huge influx of visitors. Venice&#8217;s city fathers have recently issued guidelines to reduce tourist overcrowding, but only time will tell.</p><p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/an-eastern-mediterranean-odyssey/">An Eastern Mediterranean Odyssey</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
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		<title>A Day in Dubrovnik – A Stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site</title>
		<link>https://travelingboy.com/travel/old-town-dubrovnik-croatia/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Greg Aragon]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 Sep 2018 01:00:29 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[World Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Adriatic Sea]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Croatia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cruise ship]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dubrovnik]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fortress]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Franjo Tuđman Bridge]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Holland America]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[old town]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[UNESCO]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[World Heritage Site]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://travelingboy.com/travel/?p=8306</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<p>I’ve seen many castles and fortresses on my travels, but none stick in my head like the fortified Old Town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. If I didn’t actually walk upon its marble streets and touch its historic stone wall for myself, I’d swear it was a modern recreation of another time. </p>
<p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/old-town-dubrovnik-croatia/">A Day in Dubrovnik – A Stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I’ve seen many castles and fortresses on my travels, but none stick in my head like the fortified Old Town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. If I didn’t actually walk upon its marble streets and touch its historic stone wall for myself, I’d swear it was a modern recreation of another time.</p>
<p>Founded by the Romans in the 7<sup>th</sup> century, Dubrovnik’s walled village is located on a rocky cliff overlooking the Dalmatian Coast of the Adriatic Sea, in the Southeastern part of <a href="http://travelingboy.com/archive-travel-bev-croatia1.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Croatia</a>. The city was known as Ragusa until the end of WWI, when it took its present name.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_8309" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-8309" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-8309" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Dubrovnik.jpg" alt="view of the walled city of Dubrovnik" width="850" height="445" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Dubrovnik.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Dubrovnik-600x314.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Dubrovnik-300x157.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Dubrovnik-768x402.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-8309" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">Dubrovnik is a 7th century walled-city of charming cobblestone streets and historic structures</span></figcaption></figure></p>
<p>My first glance of the UNESCO World Heritage Site came from the deck of a cruise ship, which approached from the <a href="http://travelingboy.com/archive-travel-ed-mediterranean.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Mediterranean Sea</a>. From this vantage point I got a panoramic view of the giant stone wall surrounding the city. Jetting 100 feet high from the rocks that line the coast, the 20-ft-thick wall stretches more than 6,350 ft-long as it wraps around mediaeval ramparts, draw bridges, and other castle features. For those wanting a cool, birds-eye view, it is possible to walk along the wall to get a memorable look at the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” the nearby islands, and the Franjo Tuđman Bridge, with iconic triangular, cable-stayed profile.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_8308" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-8308" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-8308" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Waters.jpg" alt="boats on the waters outside the walled city of Dubrovnik" width="850" height="567" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Waters.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Waters-600x400.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Waters-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Waters-768x512.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-8308" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">The waters surrounding the walled city are filled with colorful boats</span></figcaption></figure></p>
<p><figure id="attachment_8310" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-8310" style="width: 540px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-8310" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Franjo-Tudman-Bridge.jpg" alt="the Franjo Tuđman Bridge" width="540" height="800" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Franjo-Tudman-Bridge.jpg 540w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Franjo-Tudman-Bridge-203x300.jpg 203w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 540px) 100vw, 540px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-8310" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">The town is overlooked by the iconic Franjo Tuđman Bridge</span></figcaption></figure></p>
<p>The barrier took nearly 500 years to complete and was built to protect the town and its prized location from ambitious invaders. Today it is considered one of Europe’s finest surviving fortress walls. It’s easy to understand why George Bernard Shaw once said &#8220;if you want to see heaven on earth, come to Dubrovnik.”</p>
<p>After docking in the modern Port of Dubrovnik, I took a bus to edge of <a href="http://travelingboy.com/archive-travel-tom-dubrovnik_oldtown.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Old Town</a>, where I found an exciting seaside atmosphere. There were kids eating ice cream on green lawns overlooking the water, shops full of tourists and pubs pouring beer. On one side I watched colorful fishing boats bob in the harbor beneath the fortress wall, and on the other side, I noticed hotels blending in with regular homes.</p>
<p>To enter Old Town I walked through the main Pile Gate, where I discovered a medieval world of densely packed brick buildings with arched doorways, marble inlays and red tiled roofs. Many of the buildings are mixed-used with private residences set atop quaint shops and charming outdoor cafes.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_8312" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-8312" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-8312" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Walking-at-Old-Town.jpg" alt="locals walking on a street at Old Town, Dubrovnik" width="850" height="567" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Walking-at-Old-Town.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Walking-at-Old-Town-600x400.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Walking-at-Old-Town-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Walking-at-Old-Town-768x512.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-8312" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">The village is alive with proud locals and tourists from around the world</span></figcaption></figure></p>
<p>The town is dissected by a large and shiny limestone main street, which branches into a network of narrow, sloping alleys and steep stairways, teeming with plants. The bustling, cream-colored main street brightly reflects the sun’s rays during the day and turns them into a sandy glowing hue at night.</p>
<p>The landscape is also speckled with Baroque churches, monasteries and palaces, Renaissance fountains and facades, all intertwined with gleaming wide marble-paved squares and those steep cobbled streets, all of which have also remained unchanged for centuries. Old Town is also home to an 800-year-old Gothic church and Europe’s oldest pharmacy.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_8317" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-8317" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-8317" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Street-Performer-and-Artisan.jpg" alt="Street performer and artisan at Dubrovnik's Old Town" width="850" height="1132" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Street-Performer-and-Artisan.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Street-Performer-and-Artisan-600x799.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Street-Performer-and-Artisan-225x300.jpg 225w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Street-Performer-and-Artisan-768x1023.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Street-Performer-and-Artisan-769x1024.jpg 769w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-8317" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">Street performers and artisans are a fun sight along the cobblestone streets</span></figcaption></figure></p>
<p><figure id="attachment_8315" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-8315" style="width: 540px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-8315" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Alleyway.jpg" alt="narrow alleyway at Old town Dubrovnik" width="540" height="725" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Alleyway.jpg 540w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Alleyway-223x300.jpg 223w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 540px) 100vw, 540px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-8315" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">Charming narrow alleyways lead to hidden restaurants and hotels</span></figcaption></figure></p>
<p>As I wandered in and out of the town’s walkways, I was overcome by the aroma of fresh seafood riding a warm Mediterranean breeze. The scent led me to a place called Pink Shrimp Street Food located in a charming little alley off the main street. Here I sat outside and enjoyed a fresh shrimp sandwich with salad and a mug of cold, Croatian beer.</p>
<p>As I ate my lunch I watched people from all over the world stroll up and down the cobblestone streets. If you are out at the right time, the place can be a peaceful village, while much of the time it is bustling with tourists. The place gets about 2 million visitors per year and a good chunk of these people come by way of cruise ship. During the summer, Dubrovnik can welcome up to six cruise ships on a single day.</p>
<p>Cruise lines such as Holland America stop in the Dubrovnik. In fact their ship Oosterdam is leaving on a 12-day Mediterranean Romance cruise October 15 (next month), that departs from <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/exploring-venice-lost-found-special-finds-repeat/?highlight=venice">Venice</a>, Italy and stops in Dubrovnik. For more information, visit <a href="https://www.hollandamerica.com/en_US.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Holland America</a>.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_8316" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-8316" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-8316" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Cruise-Ship.jpg" alt="cruise ship at Dubrovnik" width="850" height="567" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Cruise-Ship.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Cruise-Ship-600x400.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Cruise-Ship-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Cruise-Ship-768x512.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-8316" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">A cruise ship is a great way to get acquainted with Dubrovnik</span></figcaption></figure></p>
<p><a href="https://www.visit-croatia.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Go here for more info on Croatia and Dubrovnik</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flylax.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Los Angeles Intl Airport</a> offers daily connecting flights to Dubrovnik. A good local tour company for the Los Angeles area is <a href="http://www.adriatictours.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Adriatic Travel Inc.</a>, which specializes in Croatia and Dubrovnik.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/old-town-dubrovnik-croatia/">A Day in Dubrovnik – A Stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
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		<title>Viking River Cruise Opens Doors in Eastern Europe</title>
		<link>https://travelingboy.com/travel/viking-river-cruise-opens-doors-in-eastern-europe/</link>
					<comments>https://travelingboy.com/travel/viking-river-cruise-opens-doors-in-eastern-europe/#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Katherine Rodeghier]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 31 May 2018 16:30:21 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[World Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Belgrade]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bucharest]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Budapest]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bulgaria]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Croatia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Danube River]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Eastern Europe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hungary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Romania]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Serbia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Viking River Cruises]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://travelingboy.com/travel/?p=6595</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<p>Ten of us sat around a kitchen table in a tidy home in eastern Croatia. Over cake and coffee, our hostess answered questions about life in villages still reeling from the effects of a war that ended on paper more than two decades ago.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/viking-river-cruise-opens-doors-in-eastern-europe/">Viking River Cruise Opens Doors in Eastern Europe</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ten of us sat around a kitchen table in a tidy home in eastern Croatia. Over cake and coffee, our hostess answered questions about life in villages still reeling from the effects of a war that ended on paper more than two decades ago.</p>
<p>Fields still laced with land mines. Rampant unemployment. Young people fleeing to bigger cities to find a better life. Suzi Petrijevcanin wasn’t complaining, just telling it like it is to passengers on Viking River Cruises who’d booked a visit to her home as part of their shore excursion.</p>
<p>“We call you the boat people,” she laughs.</p>
<p>The Lower Danube flows through Eastern Europe’s former Communist countries. Bookended by beauty spots in <a href="http://travelingboy.com/archive-travel-tom-budapest.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Budapest</a> and Bucharest, the stretch of river is short on fairy-tale castles and romantic vistas, long on buildings pockmarked by bullet holes, ugly Communist-era housing projects, monstrous people palaces built by egomaniacal tyrants.</p>
<p>Passengers who book this itinerary tend to have an intellectual bent; well-traveled lifelong learners who’ve been to other countries in Europe and want to satisfy their curiosity about this part of the world. Eastern Europe’s complicated history unravels in on-board lectures, walking tours, motor coach excursions and visits to the homes of people like Suzi.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_6587" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-6587" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-6587" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Viking-Lif-Budapest.jpg" alt="Viking River Cruises' Lif docks on the Danube in Budapest" width="850" height="565" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Viking-Lif-Budapest.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Viking-Lif-Budapest-600x399.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Viking-Lif-Budapest-300x199.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Viking-Lif-Budapest-768x510.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-6587" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">The Lif, one of several longboats operated by Viking River Cruises, docks on the Danube in Budapest.</span> Photo by Katherine Rodeghier</figcaption></figure></p>
<p>Viking’s Eastern Europe itinerary takes in Croatia and Serbia — formerly parts of Yugoslavia — as well as Hungary, Bulgaria and Romania, once all but closed to the West by the Iron Curtain. It combines a cruise on the Lower Danube with nights in upscale hotels before and after. My ship, the Lif, served as a comfortable base for exploring present-day life in the countries of Eastern Europe as it relates to their dark history.</p>
<h3>City and Country Life in Hungary</h3>
<p><figure id="attachment_6591" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-6591" style="width: 500px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-6591" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Matthias-Church.jpg" alt="the Mathias Church in Budapest" width="500" height="700" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Matthias-Church.jpg 500w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Matthias-Church-214x300.jpg 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-6591" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">Colorful tiles top the roof of Matthias Church in Budapest, site of royal coronations under Hapsburg rule.</span> Photo by Katherine Rodeghier</figcaption></figure></p>
<p>The Danube divides Buda and Pest, two sections of the Hungarian capital. We began in Buda with a walking tour around Trinity Square and gothic Matthias Church with its eye-catching Zsolnay tile roof. Behind it the white turrets of Fisherman’s Bastion rise above the Danube. Named for the fishermen who defended this stretch of the city walls in medieval times, it now serves as a viewing terrace.</p>
<p>From this perch, we had a great view of the Pest side of the city and the massive neo-gothic Parliament building reflected in the river. A funicular leads down to the riverfront and the Chain Bridge, the oldest of Budapest’s seven spans. Damaged by the Nazis, the unusual suspension bridge was rebuilt in its 1840 design, though enlarged for vehicle traffic.</p>
<p>Crossing over to the Pest side, we came to one of the most haunting displays of the city’s tragic history: row after row of shoes, replicated in bronze, lining the riverfront. This sculpture, “Shoes on the Danube,” memorializes Jews forced to remove their footwear here before they were executed by fascists, their bodies dumped in the river. Visitors place stones and flowers in the shoes, silently snapping photos.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_6594" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-6594" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-6594" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Shoes-on-the-Danube.jpg" alt="“Shoes of the Danube” art installation, Budapest, Hungary" width="850" height="606" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Shoes-on-the-Danube.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Shoes-on-the-Danube-600x428.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Shoes-on-the-Danube-300x214.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Shoes-on-the-Danube-768x548.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Shoes-on-the-Danube-104x74.jpg 104w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-6594" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">The “Shoes of the Danube” art installation recalls the murder of Jews in Budapest during World War II.</span> Photo by Katherine Rodeghier</figcaption></figure></p>
<p>During World War II, more than 80 percent of the city’s buildings were damaged before forces of the Soviet Union pushed out the Nazis. Then, in 1956, the Soviets crushed a revolt, sending 40,000 Hungarians to camps for “re-education.” Another 300,000 fled the country.</p>
<p>Cruise passengers have several opportunities to visit the Hungarian countryside. Godollo Royal Palace and Gardens, largest palace in Hungary, lies just 40 minutes from the capital. An excursion to a farm and equestrian show taught us about Hungary’s tradition of horsemanship that began when nomadic warriors thundered across the steppes from Asia.</p>
<h3>Conflict Between Croats and Serbs</h3>
<p>Tour guides in <a href="http://travelingboy.com/archive-travel-bev-croatia1.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Croatia</a> and Serbia, home visits and on-board lectures help passengers wrap their heads around the complicated struggles between Croats, who are mostly Catholic, and Serbs, mostly Eastern Orthodox. But the conflict isn’t so much over religion as it is over territory and resentments rooted in struggles centuries old.</p>
<p>En route to Suzi’s house in Croatia, our tour guide took us through the Danube port of Vukovar, 90 percent destroyed in the 1990s during what Croatia calls the Homeland War (in Serbia it’s the Civil War). It started when Croatia declared independence from Serbian majority Yugoslavia. In Vukovar, more than 200 Croats who had taken refuge in a hospital were executed.</p>
<p>After listening to such tales of inhumanity, it was a comfort to sit in Suzi’s warm home and talk about life in Croatia today. While western Croatia thrives from tourism along the Adriatic Coast, eastern Croatia along the Danube still struggles. Once the nation’s breadbasket, Suzi said landmines left over from the war make tilling the fertile soil a challenge.</p>
<p>We learn the Serbian side of the story in Belgrade, capital of Serbia. Unlike most of Eastern Europe, Serbia does not belong to the European Union so has not benefited from its economic assistance. Ugly Soviet-era apartment buildings blight the skyline. Other buildings still bear bombed-out walls.</p>
<p>Our tour guide gave us an overview of Serbian conflicts. A Serbian nationalist assassinated an Austro-Hungarian archduke, causing Austria to declare war on Serbia and starting World War I. During World War II, Josip Broz Tito led Yugoslav guerrillas, and later became leader of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, holding together a coalition of non-aligned nations during the Cold War. The breakup of Yugoslavia began after his death in 1980.</p>
<p>But as in Croatia, Serbia’s struggles began much earlier. Situated at the confluence of the Danube and Sawa rivers, Belgrade is at the crossroads of Eastern and Western Europe and has been destroyed and rebuilt 20 times.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_6588" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-6588" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-6588" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Church-of-St.-Sava.jpg" alt="the Church of St. Sava in Belgrade" width="850" height="574" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Church-of-St.-Sava.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Church-of-St.-Sava-600x405.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Church-of-St.-Sava-300x203.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Church-of-St.-Sava-768x519.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-6588" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">Work on the Church of St. Sava in Belgrade was suspended during World War II and under Communism. Construction was largely financed by Serbians living abroad.</span> Photo by Katherine Rodeghier</figcaption></figure></p>
<p>A bright spot in Belgrade is the Church of St. Sava, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. Begun in 1935, construction halted during World War II and under Communism. Work resumed in the 1980s, with funds largely from Serbians living abroad. Inside under its 100-foot diameter dome, visitors learn some of the practices of the Serbian Orthodox religion: only human voices are allowed (chants, no organ), the altar must face east, worshippers stand (no pews) during services and the church follows the Julian calendar so Christmas comes on January 7.</p>
<h3>Iron Gates to Bulgaria and Romania</h3>
<p>The Danube continues east toward the Black Sea passing through the Iron Gates, a gorge between Romania on the north, Serbia on the south.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_6589" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-6589" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-6589" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Iron-Gates-Convent.jpg" alt="orthodox convent along the Danube on the Romanian side of the Iron Gates gorge" width="850" height="630" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Iron-Gates-Convent.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Iron-Gates-Convent-600x445.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Iron-Gates-Convent-300x222.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Iron-Gates-Convent-768x569.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-6589" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">An orthodox convent sits along the Danube on the Romanian side of the Iron Gates gorge.</span> Photo by Katherine Rodeghier</figcaption></figure></p>
<p>We pass an onion-domed monastery, now a convent, poking from shore. On the public address system, our cruise director tells us to watch for a nun on the balcony. If she waves to a passenger, legend has it the passenger will find enduring love within a year. A woman veiled in black appears, raising a hand in greeting.</p>
<p>A few minutes later we cruise by a Mount Rushmore-like head of King Decebalus who battled the Romans for freedom for what is now Romania. Carved into the limestone cliffs, it measures more than 140 feet high.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_6590" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-6590" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-6590" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/King-Decebalus-in-Iron-Gates.jpg" alt="limestone face of King Decebalus by the Danube" width="850" height="565" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/King-Decebalus-in-Iron-Gates.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/King-Decebalus-in-Iron-Gates-600x399.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/King-Decebalus-in-Iron-Gates-300x199.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/King-Decebalus-in-Iron-Gates-768x510.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-6590" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">The limestone face of King Decebalus looms over the Danube inside the Iron Gates gorge.</span> Photo by Katherine Rodeghier</figcaption></figure></p>
<p>We journey through a lock and dam and the Danube widens. Kayakers skim the surface and fishermen cast lines into the river. Cottages and campgrounds line the shore where people are picnicking and sunbathing on beaches. The red-tile roofs of villages add color to the riverbank. A plume of smoke from a tractor rises from a field.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_6592" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-6592" style="width: 500px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-6592" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Ramona-Mihaylova.jpg" alt="Ramona Mihaylova demonstrating how to make banitsa in her home in Bulgaria" width="500" height="700" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Ramona-Mihaylova.jpg 500w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Ramona-Mihaylova-214x300.jpg 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-6592" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">Ramona Mihaylova shows cruise passengers how to make banitsa in her home in Bulgaria.</span> Photo by Katherine Rodeghier</figcaption></figure></p>
<p>In Vidin, Bulgaria, passengers make another home visit, this time to learn how to make <em>banitsa</em>, a pastry that’s a staple in every household. Ramona Mihaylova lays out bowls and pans on the granite countertop in the kitchen of her modern home, which could have been plucked from the suburbs of Cincinnati where she and her husband lived for many years before she retired from teaching and they returned to their homeland.</p>
<p>On our last morning on the river, we boarded a motor coach for Bucharest, capital of Romania and “Paris of the East” for its wide boulevards, parks and mix of architecture styles and grand monuments, including an Arch of Triumph.</p>
<p>The night before, our cruise director gave us his story of life in Bucharest under Communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu. He told us he grew up with anti-Western propaganda meant to explain away harsh economic conditions. Teachers told him blue jeans cause skin cancer and the Western diet was unhealthy, all while food shortages were rampant. Electricity was shut down for an hour every night and apartments could not be heated to more than 57 degrees.</p>
<p><figure id="attachment_6593" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-6593" style="width: 850px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-6593" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Romanian-Parliament.jpg" alt="the Palace of Parliament, Bucharest, Romania" width="850" height="445" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Romanian-Parliament.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Romanian-Parliament-600x314.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Romanian-Parliament-300x157.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Romanian-Parliament-768x402.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-6593" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="font-size: small;">The cost of building Nicolae Ceausescu’s people palace contributed to the collapse of Romania’s economy.</span> Photo by Katherine Rodeghier</figcaption></figure></p>
<p>We saw the main reason for these restrictions when we toured the Palace of Parliament, a permanent example of Ceausescu’s megalomania. He bankrupted his country to build this ostentatious people palace, the biggest administration building in the world after the Pentagon. Covering nearly 4 million square feet, marble-clad rooms drip with gold leaf. Our one-hour tour covered just 3 percent of them.</p>
<p>Ceausescu never got to enjoy his palace. Before it was completed, a wave of revolutions swept across Eastern Europe in 1989. In December that year, Romania’s military sided with protesters, arrested the tyrant who, after a quick trial, was executed on Christmas Day.</p>
<p>A few months later the <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/berlin-yesterday-and-today/">Berlin Wall</a> came down in Germany.</p>
<p>The Iron Curtain had fallen.</p>
<p>For further information, visit <a href="https://www.vikingrivercruises.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong>Viking River Cruises </strong></a>or call, 800-706-1483</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/viking-river-cruise-opens-doors-in-eastern-europe/">Viking River Cruise Opens Doors in Eastern Europe</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
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