What are some of the “things” or activities that visitors do for fun?

ANSWER: There is so much to do while visiting Kaua’i depending on your interests. Some of the more popular activities are: Viewing the Napali cliffs from a boat tour, seeing Kaua’i from above in a helicopter or plane tour, kayaking the navigable rivers, take a zipline over the treetops, take an ATV tour, horseback riding in beautiful scenery, playing on golf courses with views that can distract you, enjoying a luau and the list goes on and on.

What’s one thing the public probably does NOT know about Kaua’i?

ANSWER: Kaua’i is nicknamed the “Garden Island” and in fact Kaua’i has many gardens to enjoy while visiting. Three of those gardens are part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden (NTBG): Limahuli Garden, Allerton Garden and McBryde Garden. The National Tropical Botanical Garden is the only tropical botanical garden with a charter from the United States Congress. In the early 1960’s a group of forward-thinking individuals recognized the need for a tropical botanical garden on U.S. soil, and banded together to form a foundation with the purpose of ensuring such a garden was established. NTBG has the mission to enrich life through discovery, scientific research, conservation and education by perpetuating the survival of plants, ecosystems, and cultural knowledge of tropical regions. One of the most recent programs at NTBG is The Breadfruit Institute founded in 2003. The mission of the Breadfruit Institute is to promote the conservation and use of breadfruit for food and reforestation. The institute is taking a leading role in the conservation of breadfruit diversity and ethnobotanical research documenting traditional uses and cultural practices involving breadfruit.

What has Kaua’i contributed to the world?

ANSWER: Kaua’i has contributed millions of wonderful vacations, weddings, honeymoons and memories, as well as iconic images via the movies and television. From 1934 “White Heat” to 1958 “South Pacific” with Mitzi Gaynor to 1961 Elvis’ “Blue Hawaii PERIOD” Kaua’i has been immortalized in many blockbusters, including the recent “Jurassic Park” films, “6 Days / 7 Nights” and “Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides” to the Academy Award winning “The Descendants.”

For more on Kaua’i, visit

Kauai Official Travel Site: Find Vacation & Travel Information

The post About Kaua’i. Hawaii. appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Dear Maria,

Yes, Magellan lost his head in the Philippine island of Mactan in 1521. Ferdinand Magellan (Fernando de Magallanes in Spanish) was actually born in Portugal (Fernao de Magalhaes) but his expedition was funded by Spanish investors when his own country rejected his exploration proposal. Whether he changed loyalty to Spain is not clear but the Philippines is named after King Philip of Spain.

Magellan’s story is one instance where the old adage “the victor gets to write history” rings true. The PBS History website and Spanish movies like “1898: Our Last Men in the Philippines” depict the Filipinos as uncivilized thankless primitives. From Western perspectives, the Spaniards were the cultured benefactors who came to save the Filipinos from their ignorance. From the Filipino’s viewpoint, the Spaniards were the oppressors. The Spanish monks sworn to celibacy were notorious to have families on the side.

Western literature does not explain how Magellan was killed but ask a Filipino and he can tell you that that Lapu Lapu, the local tribal chief, cut off Magellan’s head. It may be conjecture but in fairness, the PBS video stated that Lapu Lapu’s many tattoos proved he was a strong warrior (how did they know that?) — now that’s conjecture if you ask me.

There is a popular, humorous, clever song about “Magellan” composed by funny man, Yoyoy Villame. You can watch the video below but here’s fair warning that Yoyoy ‘s accent is so thick, you may have to read the captions to understand the lyrics.

Excerpt of the song as you might hear it:
“En March sixteen, Pipteen Hundred Twenty one, the Phelepeens was disco-bird by Magellan.
[In March 15, 1621, the Philippines was discovered by Magellan.]”

Magellan’s claim to fame: The first man to circumnavigate the world. But actually, Magellan, was already dead when the ship Victoria arrived at Seville, Spain on September 9, 1522. The real navigator who accomplished this feat and whose fame was stolen from him was Juan Sebastian de Elcano. Hard to believe that was 500 years ago.

Magellan is also credited to have discovered the Philippines. That’s an insult to the Filipinos whose ancestors had a functioning civilization before the Spaniards forced them into Catholicism. Magellan’s arrival prompted the colonization of the Philippines that lasted for 300 years and, sadly, instead of sharing the technology, the Spaniards kept the natives uneducated in order to hold on to their power. The Catholic missions did put up schools and it taught the local elites (ilustrados) Western culture. Sure enough. the ilustrados, with eyes opened, realized the oppression of their people and started a movement of unrest with their writings. This led to the Philippine Revolution in August 1896.

It seems like the Philippines is always getting the short end of the stick (maybe it’s because most Filipinos are so nice and genteel … an admirable character trait but easy prey to opportunistic bullies) because, when the Filipinos finally united to stop the abuse, they partnered with America who helped drive the Spaniards out. However, seeing the weakened state of the Philippine revolutionaries, the Americans decided to take the Philippines for itself. The United States turned the Philippines into one of its commonwealth countries. Unlike the Spaniards, Americans brought in the protestant brand of Christianity and tradition of educating the natives. They started the public school system. At one point, the Philippines boasted it had the highest per capita literacy in the world. Thanks to America everyone (not just the ilustrados) could get an education. This affiliation with America forced the Philippines’ involvement in the US-Japanese War. Countless lives were lost from the Japanese atrocities. But after the war, the Philippines became the economic envy of South East Asia — more advanced even than Japan in the late 50s. But politics, greed, and corruption creeped in … but that’s another story.

Final observations

There are Philippine statues, paintings, food products and even a fish named after the barbarian Lapu Lapu but there are none for Magellan. As to your question: is it safe for Spaniards to visit the Philippines? Of course it’s safe. Despite the bad blood between the 2 countries, today Filipinos can travel freely to Spain without a visa. Many Spaniards consider the Filipinos as their brothers. Today the remnants of the Spanish influence can be seen in the Filipino names, street names, words in the Filipino language and in many of the food. The mulatos (or lighter-skinned cross-bred children of the Spaniards) are considered to be so attractive that they are plucked to be actors and models regardless of their intelligence or talent. This is part of the colonial mentality deeply ingrained in the Filipino psyche.

Another testament to the kind and forgiving heart of the Filipinos: they have great relations with the Japanese (maybe they’re attracted to Japan’s affluence). In fact, the Japanese (ashamedly) seem to remember what their warring ancestors did to the Filipinos more than most Filipinos today. Japan has also donated greatly to boost the Philippine economy. — Pedro Panduko

Send in your questions

This installment of our advice column comes to you from our Filipino-American expert, Mr. Pedro Panduko (this is his pen name). Ask him anything about the Philippines and he will give his expert opinion. Ask about the food, the beaches, politics, history, the people, customs, superstitions, economy, etc. He can even share affordable travel ideas.

Meet our Filipino-American: Pedro Panduko

Pedro was born in Aklan, a South Eastern province of the Philippines. He speaks Tagalog, Visayan and English. He was studying in Metropolitan Manila when his family decided to move to California, USA in the 90s. He’s a typical hard-working Filipino who enjoys sports (especially basketball, boxing and football), food, cars and action movies. He currently is the quality controller of a medical marijuana plant. No, he doesn’t sample the product (at least that’s what he wants us to believe), but he sure knows how to grow the best ones. He loves his family and America. He and his wife immerse their smart and talented kids into the American culture.

The post Dear Filipino-American: Did Magellan Lose His Head? appeared first on Traveling Archive.

By Ed Boitano

The first thing you notice is the fragrance; where the intoxicating scent of the tiare flower announces to your senses that you are in a magical place, overflowing with tropical vegetation and soothing trade winds. It is the same perfume that the English seamen on the HMS Bounty first encountered; but they came not for flowers, but for breadfruit, intended as a new food staple for their African slaves in the West Indies. But that was another time and another emotional place. Today, Papeete, located on Tahiti Nui (‘Big’), is Tahiti’s vibrant capital city and gateway to her islands. Roughly one-half of all of the Tahitian islands’ population live in this city. Papeete bustles with world-class resorts, restaurants, nightclubs and endless shopping.

FIRST STOP: The Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands

The Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands (‘Te Fare Manah’) is located 10 miles south of Papeete and offers a concise overview of Tahiti and the other 118 islands of French Polynesia. The museum is divided into four sections: geography and natural history; pre-European culture; the effects of colonization; and the natural wonders of the archipelago. In less than two-hours you will become an expert in all things French Polynesia. Displays are in English and French.

Like many of the Pacific Islands, it’s a widely accepted theory that around three to four thousand years ago, there was a great migration from southeast Asia which led to the settlement of many Polynesian islands.

Feats of Courage

The ingenious Polynesian explorers were ultra-sophisticated sailors, with a highly complex navigational system based on the observation of the stars, ocean swells and flight patterns of birds. Their primary vessel was a 50 to 60 feet long canoe, consisting of two hulls, connected by lashed crossbeams. A precursor to the modern catamaran, the sails were made of matting drove and long steering paddles enabled the mariners to keep it sailing on course. The canoes could accommodate roughly two dozen people, food supplies, livestock of pigs and poi dogs, and planting materials, essential for the long expeditions and the eventual founding of new island colonies. Like athletes, they would go into vigorous training prior to voyages, even conditioning their bodies to deal with less food and water. The navigational voyages — voyages of spectacular feats of courage, strength and skill — are still widely admired today. Numerous canoeist groups have attempt to emulate the Polynesian voyages; but with the backup of small motors, charts and compasses and food items, they certainly do not qualify as a voyage into the unknown.

The European Conquest

During the 1500s, several European explorers sighted various Tahitian islands, but it was not upon Englishman Samuel Wallis’ arrival in 1767 that Tahiti, Moorea, and MaiaoIti were christened the Society Islands, named for the Royal Society, which had sponsored the expedition under Capt. James Cook.

This was followed by landings of French naval expeditions in 1800s along with further English ships. Packed with rugged whalers and strict Protestant English missionaries, an attempt was made to strip Tahiti of much of its culture, including even the traditional use of the canoe. Tahitians soon faced harsh biblical justice of prison, banishment and even death by the new European colonizers.

The British and French conquests provoked a gold rush fever between both nations for control of the islands, which concluded when King Pōmare V of the Pōmare Dynasty, who had ruled Tahiti until 1880, was persuaded to abdicate his throne in return for a French pension and two honorary titles, making him the last Tahitian monarch. The body of his mother, Aimata Pōmare IV Vahine-o-Punuateraʻitua (otherwise known as Aimata; ‘eye-eater,’ a custom of the ruler to eat the eye of the defeated foe) were removed and buried in the nearby Royal Mausoleum.

The earlier French-Tahitian War (1844-1847) set the stage for Tahiti and most of her dependencies ceded to France; by 1958, all the Islands of Tahiti were reconstituted as a French Overseas Territory and renamed French Polynesia.

A large harbor was built in Papeete, an international airport was constructed in Faa’a, and a huge film crew descended onto the islands to film the 1962 movie, Mutiny on the Bounty. These rapid changes quickly brought French Polynesia into the modern age. In 1977, the French government granted autonomy to French Polynesia; then in 2004, it became an official Overseas Country of the French Republic, with all its people receiving the full rights of French citizenship.

Louis-Antoine de Bougainville & the Noble Savage

But it was Louis-Antoine de Bougainville, the first French naval explorer to have circled the world (1766-69), who earlier created a worldwide sensation when publishing his travel log under the title, A Voyage Around the World. The book describes Tahiti as an earthly paradise where the noble savage lives in blissful innocence with one another, influencing the utopian thoughts of poets, novelists and philosophers. The Bougainvillea Flower stems from his family name.

But were the islanders really an example of innocence and bliss? Human sacrifices were common, and the trade of iron nails with European conquerors — which Tahitians conformed into fishing hooks that would not break as opposed to the previous use of delicate seashells — were returned for water, food and sexual favors. Imagine the crusty English sailor, complete with rickets, scurvy wounds, broken smiles and missing teeth at the average height of 5 ft. 5 inches tall encountering statuesque 6th ft. tall Tahitian people born into a perfect gene pool. With the reduction of nails, some captains actually expressed concern that their vessels would collapses. And along with stealing (often eating) strange animals and general theft of supplies, the Tahitians demonstrated certain aspects of their culture that was not unfamiliar to humankind.

Paul Gauguin in Tahiti

In 1891, Post-Impressionist French painter Paul Gauguin also relocated to Papeete. Middle aged at 43-years-old, he was disappointed to find that Tahiti’s mythical paradise and primitive life had already changed due to English and French colonization. To distance himself from ‘civilization’ he moved to the far west side of the island, ultimately completing 516 paintings, which included his oil on canvas: Two Tahitian Women, recently purchased at $300m (£197m), making it the most expensive work of art ever sold.

A Personalized Exploration

Arahurahu Marae, Tahiti Nui’s only completely reconstructed marae, is an open-air place of worship and ceremony. The sacred temple is constructed of tiers of lave stones where the Tahitian elite made sacrifices. Yes, sometimes even human. Only royalty is permitted to be inside a marae, even a rebuilt one, while commoners risk death by entering. My guide informed me that he had never once stepped into a marae. I couldn’t resist, and carefully climbed over the lava bricks. Somehow, I managed to survive.

Our jeep commenced deep into the mountainous valley of Papenoo; a true Garden of Eden with fertile displays of ginger, vanilla, taro, noni and breadfruit. The medicinal and cosmetic benefits of the pants and flowers are well utilized by the Tahitians, renowned for their health, physical beauty and spiritual serenity.

For this final tour, my guide was an Euro-Tahitian anthropologist, who has lived in Tahiti Nui his entire adult life. While charging through the thick forested terrain in our jeep, he explained the intricacies of Tahitian culture, where the past meets the present, and that the Gallic texture of today is often only evident on the surface. The French police keep the islands safe but will never enter a home when there’s a family dispute or even violence. Often times when a local commits an egregious crime, justice is handled the tribal way, where the offender might ‘accidentally’ fall from the top of a mountain or ‘mysteriously’ drown while fishing.

When a Tahitian woman reaches the age to give childbirth, she is encouraged to take as many lovers as she chooses. When an infant is born, the child is given to a group of older women, often aunts (slang, motu mamas) to be raised by the community in wide open mountain valleys. From my guide’s studies, he believes that Tahiti and Polynesia illustrate the most tolerant and sophisticated child rearing practices in the world; a world where the youth find meaning through relationships with the family, community, spatial terrain, ancestral spirits and God.

Māhū: French Polynesia’s Esteemed Third Gender People

A person referred to as a Māhū is a male born child, raised as a girl. When a young boy illustrates what is considered feminine qualities such as cooking, cleaning and sewing as opposed to the assumed male characteristics of hunting, fishing or going to war, he is simply raised alongside girls. There are no negative ramifications on being a Māhū, and the people are considered a culture-bound transsexuality treated with great respect. Māhūs traditionally play key social and spiritual roles, as guardians of cultural rituals and dances, or providers of care for children and elders. Many continue as Māhūs throughout their adult life, and once enjoyed the trusted status of servants to the royalty. The earliest known written reference to Māhū people was in 1789, when Captain Bligh of the Bounty wrote in his logbook about “people very common in Otaheitie called Mahoo… who although I was certain was a man, had great marks of effeminacy about him. They weren’t just tolerated, but embraced…”

“Māhūs have this other sense that men or women don’t have,” said Swiss-Guinean photographer NamsaLeuba, whose images from French Polynesia appeared at a recent exhibition in London. “It is well known that they have something special.”

My guide continued with an anecdote about a friend who was the father of three Māhū children. Though the man was proud of his offspring, he laughingly complained that he had no one to go fishing and hunting with. Some adult Māhūs become fathers — and this is the very essence of Tahiti, where virtually everything is embraced with an easy, no sweat mentality.

Marché de Papeete

Spread over an entire city, the two-story Marché de Papeete has occupied the same location in the commercial center since 1869. It is nothing less than an institution and a must-see for every visitor. The first-floor features fruit, flowers and souvenirs to fresh seafood, produce and takeaway meals. I found that hand-painted pareus (sarongs) — worn by women and men alike — make an inexpensive gift to friends. The pearl typifies Tahiti — and also its leading export — and you’ll find large retailers selling a variety of Tahitian pearls, ranging from inexpensive to the opposite. On the market’s second floor, I made the bold decision not to dive into the water in search of a pearl for my bride’s wedding ring and managed to purchase one, a perfect black one with ease, despite my clumsy bargaining power.

Most importantly, Marché de Papeete is the ideal venue to kick back with a tropical smoothie, and watch merchants and local shoppers laugh, chat and talk story. There is no better place to enjoy the pulse of Tahitian city life.

MORE ON PEARLS

Rangiroa, located approximately one hour north of Tahiti Nui, is the world’s second largest atoll, i.e., a submerged volcano with only the motu (sandbank) at the water’s surface. Long considered the epidemy of an island paradise, scuba diving and pearl farming is Rangiroa most popular activity, with 240 small islets protecting the atoll’s infinitely deep lagoon.

The Robert Wan Pearl Museum, the world’s only museum dedicated exclusively to pearls, is a short stroll from the Marché de Papeete. Mr. Wan has devoted 51 years of his life to exploring the role of the pearl in art, history, and literature, and his exhibits reveal pearl farming techniques and why they are associated with religious rites and status symbols.

The museum also showcases the largest cultured Tahitian pearl in existence; the Robert WAN, which measures almost an inch in diameter. A guide informed me that the pearl is the world’s only gem born from a living being.

Yes, Tahiti Nui has much to offer, but locals also proudly tout the outlying, less-populated islands for their beauty and tranquility. Like southeast Alaska, exploring the other Tahitian islands is best accomplished by booking an excursion on a cruise ship. You get to see more islands and it’s less expensive.

Bora Bora – The Romantic Island

As my helicopter soared over Bora Bora’s alluring blue lagoons and tropical slopes, my pilot said it was only the second time he had maned a ‘copter… that is, the second time today. After our nervous laughter subsided, Mount Otemanu soon loomed in the distance, and it became clear why this enchanting island is synonymous with romance. Bora Bora is ideal for a bike ride around the island, a leisurely hike, or to simply disappear by a refreshing lagoon. The history buff will enjoy seeing remnants of cannons manned by American servicemen during World War II. Until 1942, there were no roads and no vehicles on Bora Bora. Tourism, of course, is theme of the today with scores of tasteful, over-the-water bungalows dotting the seascape.

Moorea – The Magical Island

Moorea is a profound example of a south seas island paradise, and it comes as no surprise that it is a favorite of many Tahitians. The beauty of the island, with its jagged green mountains and palm-draped beaches, is astounding. James Michener called it Bali Hai, Herman Melville based his novel Omoo on it, and Captain Cook spoke passionately of its landscapes and the attractiveness of the people. Moorea is unique among the Tahitian Islands in having magnificent expanses of both white and black beaches, while in most islands it is the pristine lagoons that illustrates much of their ethereal characteristics. High in Moorea’s interior mountains, Polynesian royalty practiced their archery and constructed maraes hidden in rainforests. On a hilltop lookout between shark-tooth Mount Rotui and towering Mount Tohivea, there’s a once-in-a-lifetime view once reserved only for the gods.

Raiatea – The Sacred Island

Raiatea was the cultural, religious and royal heart of Polynesia — the birthplace of the gods. The second largest Tahitian isle, and where entire clans canoed off to find new homes on other islands. Today, you can paddle around Faaroa Bay and discover why the island was a favorite of Captain Cook.

Taha’a – The Vanilla Island

Taha’a offers a glimpse of the traditional tranquil life of Tahitians. The flower-shaped island is surrounded by tiny motus, and in its fertile valleys, farmers grow watermelon and vanilla — first cultivated in Mexico, but, for me, with a more delicious flavor.

The Food of Tahiti

Indigenous Tahitian cuisine uses what’s available from the land and the sea, and the word, ‘fresh’ is essential. The taro root (more flavorful than the Hawaiian version), breadfruit, sweet potatoes, and plantains offer typical starch fare. Mangoes, bananas, watermelon, pineapple, papaya, guava, soursop and pummelo are in abundance. From the lagoons come parrotfish, perch, and mullet; from the open sea, fresh tuna, bonito, wahoo, scad and mahi mahi. Coconut milk and vanilla are incorporated into many of the dishes. With Poisson Cru, a French hybrid of tuna cured in lime juice with chopped green onions, cucumbers and tomatoes; and Fafa, a chicken stew with taro leaves; my taste buds were seduced with remarkable new flavors.

Yet, as of today, McDonald’s has even made their presence felt with three franchises in Papeete. McBaguette, anyone? But, thankfully, Tahitian snack bars and food trucks (les roulettes) still reign supreme.

Tahiti & Her Islands: The C-19 Pandemic

Upon check-in at the airport, your airline will require proof of a negative COVID-19 test. The government of French Polynesia accepts an Antigen Test administered withing 48 hours of departure, or an “RT-PCR” Test administered within 72 hours of your international departure.

Today, Tahiti & Her Islands remains the definition of an enchanting island paradise, with the warmth and openness of its people the very essence of its charm and beauty.

The post The Secrets of Tahiti and Her Islands appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Those are just a few of the things you won’t find on the Caribbean island of Nevis. And all the more reason to go there. And now you can again. Nevis having happily escaped the scourge of Covid during its peak, re-opened to the international public the end of October – and has since worked hard to maintain all recommended protocols.

So yes, it’s a better description of St. Kitts, Nevis’ much more commercialized sister island, a 45-minute ferry boat ride away. And although Nevis may be synonymous with tranquility, that does not mean it’s boring. Far from it.

Case in point, we started our visit with a Pub Crawl from Nisbet Plantation, an inn founded on a former sugar mill plantation. But these are not the usual beach bars most tourists frequent. Instead they’re the local rum shops, small shacks along the road that seldom have a sign on them and rarely attract any drive-by traffic. My husband and I regularly seek them out when in the Caribbean because we relish the sense of island flavor and the excuse to talk to laid-back locals, but we’ve never seen them part of an organized activity.

Being with a large crowd detracts from that intimacy a bit but it nonetheless is a wonderful opportunity to feel comfortable going off the beaten path. Each of the five bars has its own ambience – or in most cases, lack of one –  which only adds to its appeal. As one imbiber exulted: “This is great because we’re visiting places we would never go to on our own.” Not sure how the local residents felt about the influx of tourists but everyone was welcoming and eager to engage in conversation.

The Pub Crawl was a perfect segue to the Funky Monkey Tour, a three-hour ATV tour with Waz who kept us all enthralled throughout the wild ride. First stop – Lover’s Beach, where Waz said, “They don’t promote nude bathing but…” The fact that there were no people on it at all precluded any prurient interest on my part. Lack of people was to become a theme.

Next stop, more historical, less lascivious.  The Thomas Cottle Church, built in 1822 and operated as the first integrated church on the island. Plantation owner Cottle believed that he and his slaves should worship together, not a common practice in those times. Okay, the inspirational part of the tour.

We traveled over a lot of roads that no self-respecting normal car would ever consider driving over. When I asked the name of the road, Waz responded, “The ‘I’m Lost’ Road.”  At one point, after an exceptionally rocky part, he forewarned us that the next stretch was going to get really bumpy. We were like, “HUH?” I’m not just talking back roads here but trails glutted with rocks and roots and gulleys so as to be seemingly untraversible – or so I thought until they weren’t. But the views at the end of the stomach-churning drive were worth it.  And the monkeys scurrying in the bushes provided additional distraction when needed.

Hard to categorize the total appeal of Funky Monkey. Part nature tour, part exciting adventure, part history lesson – all intermingled in rapid succession. Oh and did I mention the rum punch out of the cooler in back?

Onto another stop at Nisbet where remnants of the 18th Century plantation windmill greet you upon arrival. Waz related the custom that if you get married on the property – and there are very few more beautiful settings – they plant a coconut tree with your names on it. And, of course, you’re welcome to come back anytime to watch it grow. How’s that for a marketing ploy?

We visited a local wild herd of sheep, which not surprisingly were missing the usual wool covering. Little warm in the islands for that. Which makes them almost indistinguishable from goats except, we learned, goats have tails that go up; sheep down. In my hometown of Washington, DC, there’s a restaurant called Tail-Up Goat. Now I understand it.

When I queried Waz as to how far our lodging was, he replied, “Nowhere on Nevis is far.” And upon actually seeing another car on the road in front of him, he lamented, “Traffic? In Nevis?”

And indeed, rush hour is more likely to be a herd of goats or a family of donkeys than another car. Making up for the lack of cars are an abundance of donkeys, monkeys, goats, sheep and chickens. Another reminder of Nevis’s laid-back charm.

Waz took us to a hidden area of woods that he claimed was his private sanctuary; no trails, no paths, no clearing. And once again, no people. Since we had seen not a soul on any beach or other destination, I was beginning to wonder where the 11000 Nevisians were. This is not an island where you feel over-run by tourists! Or people, for that matter. Rum, on the other hand, was still flowing freely. Also monkeys. There are 30,000 of THEM.

Exciting adventure #3 on this island that allegedly has nothing on it? A nature hike with Baba who provided lots of information about the flora and fauna as we walked. Unfortunately, I hate flora and fauna. I was in it for the exercise so my eyes glazed over pretty quickly. We walked about two feet and smelled four plants. There are plants to cure every ailment: hangover, mosquito bites, toothaches, constipation. I was beginning to feel a little ill myself…

But looking up from the medicinal plants are bushes and trees and leaves of white, orange, yellow and red flowers among towering trees all vying for attention with the medicine cabinet below, We were walking through the Golden Rock Estate, a sugar mill plantation from 1801-1815, the remnants of which are integrated into the buildings and grounds. An old in-ground windmill, we were told, is the highlight of the honeymoon suite – having the earth move takes on a whole new meaning…

So much greenery as to encapsulate every variation of the color in the largest box of Crayola crayons – and every shape and size of multiple leaves extracted from the world’s largest protractor. It’s like being in your own personal botanical garden. The entire setting is the very definition of romantic!

As we climbed higher and higher, however, I found myself longing for more medicinal plant information – urinary tract infection anyone?

So yes, most people coming to Nevis envision living by the following five rules: 1. Pack several books.  2. Take a deep breath, exhale, relax.  3. Order a rum drink.  4. Try to forget what’s happening in the rest of the world.  5.  Repeat.  But be open to my own Rule #6. Be prepared to have a hell of a lot of fun!

For more information, visit the Nevis Island website, Nisbet Plantation Pub Crawl and Funky Monkey Tours and Rentals.

The post The Island of Nevis: Come to Relax; Stay to Re-Energize appeared first on Traveling Archive.

My intention was to explore the eastern section of the island; the western section is ideal for more intense hiking, camping, and rugged outdoorsy sports, but I was more interested in the sights and sites. Since no town or village on the island is more than 4.5 miles from the water, I knew I would be spending some quality beach time, as well.  The irregularly shaped island is all of some 600 square miles, measuring about 50 miles long and 26 miles wide, with a substantial coastline of nearly 125 miles, and a year-round population of a mere 63,000.

I settled into a lovely self-catering apartment at the Im-Jaich am Yachthafen/Wasserferienwelt, in Putbus. Translating roughly to “Water Vacation World,” the holiday complex-cum-marina offers rental apartments (all private bungalows) and seaside activities. The units are all slightly different, but just about all are built on stilts over water, seemingly as incongruous here in the Baltic, as this architecture is in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, where the well-known Hotel Palafitte is constructed over Lake Neuchâtel; one might expect overwater bungalows in the Maldives or in French Polynesia, but here it is a pure, unexpected delight.  My little, well equipped home (with kitchenette) had a deck overlooking the marina with a ladder leading down to the water.  Within the complex, a short walk away, is the Kormoran restaurant, a handy and hearty-fare eatery, serving both locals and tourists; menus are offered in a few languages, which is sensible, as it spared me from ordering some — let’s just say — “odd” dishes.

After settling into my home base, I headed to the Naturerbe Zentrum Rügen, a 275-foot-high, circular treetop walk in the wilderness, from which you can even see, on a clear day, the church steeples of Stralsund.  The three-quarter-mile-long climb up is a gentle one, with a mere six per cent grade. Surrounded by copper beech trees, and well above the tree line, you will feel completely at one with nature and you might even catch sight of a swooping hawk, or the Baltic, in the distance. The Center also features a highly educational museum/learning center, which is well worth a visit.

Another worthwhile vista to soak up is on the coast, in the Jasmund National Park, where you’ll find massive, sheared chalk cliffs (the largest in Germany), the most famous of which is the Königsstuhl (King’s Chair).  Once part of a mammoth chalk plateau, chunks of it were forced into movement by tectonic plates and what is left here is nearly 400 feet high; at sea level, rocky beaches form little scalloped sanctuaries.  The beech forest behind it is now part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site and additionally, there is an educational center in the park area, with instructive exhibits.

After visually experiencing the chalk cliffs, it is an easy mental jump to think about indulging in a chalk-wrap spa treatment. Binz, the largest seaside resort on Rügen, has a plethora of lovely and inviting hotels and spas specializing in chalk treatments.  You might book such a treatment, as I did, at the Hotel Am Meer, a modern auberge with a utilitarian gym, pool, and lovely spa… perfect for my purposes.  My wrap was executed on an undulating, heated waterbed, which was very soothing, and after an initial scrub, I was coated in white, chalky gunk, wrapped up in thermal blankets (or so it seemed), and left to “cook.”  Once all the chalk was removed, my skin was velvety smooth and silky.  And, to boot, I had had a peaceful rest and was then ready to walk the town.

Binz itself is dotted with spa or resort architecture, not so much a particular style, but rather an aggregation of highly ornamented, mostly snow-white (with the occasional lemon-sorbet-hued structure) hotels and former private mansion-size summer homes.  It looks like a bakeshop with dozens of elaborate, wedding-cake-like buildings, all awash in trellised, lacey, white cutwork and railings.  It is just enchanting.

Starting on the beach is a pier that extends out into the sea, and along the boardwalk — really a cobbled street along the perimeter of the beach — are charming shops and boîtes, interspersed with grand and intimate hotels.

Not too far from here is Prora, what you might liken of a Monument to Cement, a sharp contrast to the magic of Binz.  It is the relic of an unfinished youth resort planned by the Nazi government in its zeal to promote “Strength through Joy,” and it featured classic Third Reich architecture. Designed to be Europe’s largest resort, it was never completed, and for a while, it was a colossal monstrosity.  The three-mile-long project today, however, has been modernized into apartment buildings, a hotel, a youth hostel, and a museum.

Another spa town definitely worthy of a visit is Sellin, also constructed in resort architecture.  The main thoroughfare, Wilhelmstrasse, about a quarter-mile long, stretches to the sea, punctuated with verdant lime trees and a swath of stunning, white-washed hotels and private homes, bistros, and touristy boutiques.  The snow-white spa-architecture structures are adorned with wooden or wrought iron cutwork railings, verandas, and structural ornamentation — like starched organdy party dress-confections, with poufs of skirts and sleeves.  At the end of this regal boulevard is a steep staircase down to the sea and a quaint pier with a delightfully structured five-section pier house, with two turrets. (Worth noting, Sellin offers some interesting museums, as well — the Amber Museum and the Seafarers’ Home Museum.)

One other attraction that is popular on the island is the “Rasender Roland” Railway, or Rushing (or Racing) Roland.  A steam-powered, narrow-gauge railway, it runs from Putbus to Göhren, by way of Binz and Sellin, so it presents an easy and pleasant means to get to these resorts.  I chose to take it to Sellin East and that enabled me to walk the length of Wilhelmstrasse to the beach. Some of the train’s cars are nearly 100 years old and while they certainly do not have the amenities of today’s high-speed rails — the train ambles along at less than 20 miles an hour — it presents an unhurried way to check out the scenery.

One other note about the picturesque scenery in the eastern part of Rügen, is the intermittently planted allées along the roadways. They pop up unpredictably and grace the mostly two-lane main arteries with verdant canopies of beech, oak, and lime trees, to name but three of the many types of trees that form these stunning and unexpected leafy awnings. A little research shows that there is a major allée that spans a substantial distance from Rügen to the mainland.  It is as if Rügen’s forebears knew that this island would be a popular retreat one day and created an arboreal cathedral for the souls of city-weary refugees.  Sadly, after my lovely sojourn, I was headed right back to another metropolis.  The allées I left behind had to sustain me as I took the (non-Roland) train back to urban environs… with soothing Rügen on the brain and in the soul.

© 2018  Ruth Katz   All Rights Reserved

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Svalbard, Norway – Wildlife

As late as 1990 there was virtually no tourism to the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard. Located between the Norwegian mainland and the North Pole, Svalbard was first the place for explorers, then whalers and coal miners. But thanks to companies like Hurtigruten – the Norwegian Coastal Voyage, it is now on the tourist map for the whole world to see. My adventure began aboard the coastal steamer MS Nordstjernen from Longyearbyen – the most northern city in the world. Heading northwest, I experienced breathtaking fjords, calving glaciers, unique animal and plant life, and a midnight sun that refused to go down. Over 60% of the archipelago consists of national parks, nature reserves, and bird or plant sanctuaries. Only four land mammals can survive on this barren tundra: the Svalbard reindeer, the Arctic fox, the Svalbard mouse and the polar bear – which has become the very symbol of Svalbard. The largest living land carnivore, they are considered the only animal that actively hunts humans. Actual encounters with this mighty species are rare, but their presence is felt all around. Visitors cannot leave settlements without a weapon or armed guide, and instructions are given on what to do with an unexpected encounter. From the deck of the vessel, I spotted a mother and her cub sleeping on an iceberg. After a couple of restless nights of my own, I would have liked to have asked them how they managed to sleep through the midnight sun.

Tahiti & Her Islands – Cuisine

The first thing you notice is the fragrance. The intoxicating perfume of the tiara flower announces to your senses that you are in a tropical world, overflowing with island vegetation and soothing trade winds. Indigenous Tahitian cuisine features what’s available from the land and sea. With such a plethora of fresh fruit and fish, it is virtually impossible to starve on the islands. Due to presence of the French (Tahiti is part of French Polynesia) there is a delectable hybrid of French and Polynesian creations. Coconut milk and vanilla – much stronger than the vanilla found in Mexico – are incorporated in many of the dishes. Poisson Cru, tuna cured in lime juice with chopped green onions, cucumbers and tomatoes; and Fife, a chicken stew with spinach-like taro leaves are among my favorites. The taro root (more flavorful than Hawaiian poi) is boiled like potatoes and not pounded. Breadfruit, sweet potatoes, and plantains also offer typical island starch fare. Mangoes, bananas, watermelon, pineapple, papaya, guava, sour sop and pummelo are in abundance. From the lagoons come parrotfish, perch, and mullet; from the open sea the freshest of tuna, bonito, Wahoo, scad and mahi mahi. For an insightful overview of these gastronomic delights, visit the main market in downtown Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia. Bon appétit!

Corfu, Greece – Literature

In Homer’s epic poem, the Odyssey, the mythical Greek character Odysseus builds a raft and attempts to return to his home island of Ithaca. But Odysseus’ enemy, Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea, unleashes a storm and the raft is destroyed. Half-drowned, Odysseus washes ashore on the island of Corfu. He staggers into an olive grove and collapses. My arrival on Corfu was a slightly different experience. Poseidon must have been smiling for the seas were calm and shimmering. And my mode of transportation was the 360 feet long luxury sailing vessel the, Star Clipper – but my thoughts were colored by Homer in preparation for my arrival. In the story, Odysseus is found by a local family who nurse him back to health. Soon he tells the family of his 20-year odyssey, which began with his departure for the Trojan War. Homer, a traveling blind minstrel, articulates the narrative orally in “heroic hexameter” – known as a form of meter in poetry or rhythmic scheme. His approach to the story is considered by many a landmark in literature as the first-time most of a story is told in flashback. Today, odyssey means ‘an extended adventurous voyage or spiritual quest.’ I’ve often wondered how Odysseus was pronounced in Greek. So with a look of a surprise when the question was proposed to a local resident, I was told, ‘O-da-Say-us,’ of course!”

Venice – Romance

Arriving in Venice on a sweltering summer morning is similar to negotiating Disneyland on opening day. Hordes of day-tripping tourists pour into the city in search of Venice’s seemingly endless attractions that include San Marco, the Rialto Bridge, the Bridge of Sighs, Doge’s Palace, fish market, various boat excursions on the Grand Canal, and a sampling of Venice’s famed seafood and risotto. With a dwindling population of 90,570 designated as permanent ‘lagoon city’ residents, it has been said that every door in Venice now leads to a shop. But who was I to complain – after all, I was a tourist too, and Venice now belongs to the world. For many, the centerpiece of a trip to Venice is taking a gondola ride on one of its many canals. It is touristic, can be expensive and you’ll find a plethora of hungry gondoliers anxious to take you on a short trip. My advice is to wait until the sun goes down, when most tourists have left the island, and taking a gondola ride on the quiet, back canals, avoiding bumper to bumper gondolas during the daytime. Riding on canals in less touristic areas allows you see a different perspective of the city. The best way to do it is to walk a few blocks off the Grand Canal and look for a gondolier who is anxious to please. At that point, you can choose what neighborhood you want to explore. A standard gondola ride is 40 minutes – and yes, to my surprise, it was romantic. The gondolier even honored my request to refrain from singing as he gently maneuvered the gondola through Venice’s  back canals.

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