The first I ever heard of La Jolla was when my mother went there for a psychology conference focusing on the studies of Carl Jung. It was during the Hippie generation and mother embraced a lot of that culture. So, I expected to see a community built on those values. I was only here for a weekend and these are just my first impressions.

La Jolla (La-HOY-a) stretches out along Southern California’s western coastline, just a brief drive north of downtown San Diego, and about 30 miles north of the Mexican border. It’s famous for its small cove and its beach, surrounded by residential homes perched on its cliffs. Its fame also includes surfing, snorkeling and scuba activities. Free public parking is very limited — mostly found on the street. There is a strong ecological movement, so it’s a haven for sea lions, sea gulls, and various fish. There are many important restrictions imposed by the (California Coastal Commission) as to what and when to bring floating devices (surfboards, boogie boards, kayakers, inflatable mattresses, etc.) to the beach, so it’s best to check the regulations first before you head out to paradise. Sorry, no dogs allowed in the beaches. I did see several surf boarders and a swarm of kayakers huddled in the waters. As is typical in California, there is a war between the free-spirited locals who access the beach and water for fun, and the conservationists who wish to preserve it.

Did you know it isn’t called a city or even a town? The locals call it a Village. From the hotel staff to the man-on-the-street, there didn’t seem to be a consensus of what was unique about this place (other than the imposing cove) they call home. There weren’t any famous landmarks except maybe the local library or the museum. No one seemed to be aware of the artifacts discovered throughout La Jolla over the decades, indicating that the Native American La Jolla Band of the Luiseño Tribe settled along the shoreline nearly 10,000 years ago. The actual name of La Jolla is also a mystery among town historians; whether it comes from the Spanish word La Joya (which means the jewel) or from the La Jolla Band term Woholle (meaning hole in the mountains. The mystery continues with others claiming that the Kumeyaay Native Americans coined the name Kulaaxuuy (land of holes). With no historical records or documents, the history of La Jolla remains mudded, so mudded that it would require more than my weekend stay in the village to reach an understanding.

I later discovered that there were actually quite a few celebrities who had lived or once-lived in the Village. Why didn’t any of the long-time residents of La Jolla not even know about their famous neighbors? Maybe it’s because the Village is mostly residential and wealthy residents commonly covet their privacy. Actor Gregory Peck was born in La Jolla, and political commentator Tucker Carlson was raised there. Spiritual writer Deepak Chopra ran his “Center for Well Being” in the Village, and Theodor “Dr. Seuss” Geisel was a life-time resident. Novelist Anne Rice (“Interview with a Vampire”) moved there from New Orleans, while one of my favorite mellow songwriters, Michael Franks, also made it his home-base. Utah senator Mitt Romney bought a $12 million La Jolla vacation home in 2008, and the first female astronaut Sally Ride lived above the cove before her spectacular explosive death on a rocket ship. And, one of Musicdom’s hotest artists, Alicia Keys, lives there as well.

Larry, who drives a shuttle bus and has lived in La Jolla forever, in an impromptu interview about his hometown.

They have one major commercial downtown area they call the Village where businesses and (mostly) restaurants and other tourist destinations are located. The University of California, San Diego, also the site of the La Jolla Playhouse and James’ Place restaurant is about half an hour away. When I browsed through the local newspaper, I noticed that real estate agents boasting of their multi-million-dollar sales comprised much of the advertisers. Houses averaged in the five-million-dollar range. If you own a house in La Jolla, you’re instantly part of the exclusive Rich and Famous.

Each house had its own personality. They weren’t track housing common to middle class society. I loved the magnificent variety of trees. Apartments looked small and expensive. Parking at night might be a problem here. The homes along the cove are architectural delights. Almost all of which have glass walls to enjoy the beauty of the crashing waves. A few were undergoing major renovations. One seemed to be fortifying the stilt foundation it has been perched on.

Walking along the side roads towards the Village from my hotel, I observed the houses below me and I’m guessing from the dusty cement structures along the main road, these owners have lived here forever — part of the old rich. The white flat-roofed houses were staggered along the cliff and weren’t particularly flashy but “location, location, location” made them expensive. At the Village, I noticed quite a few flashy low-riding sportscars parked by the mall. Due to the pandemic, many of the restaurants had outside extensions where young professionals chatted in their fashionable summer attire.

I enjoyed the flat and 3-dimensional artwork in the high-end galleries. You know there has to be a market for these shops to survive. The antique wooden intricately-decorated Athenaeum Music & Arts Library, located in the heart of La Jolla, proved to be a highpoint. I had a fascinating conversation with the knowledgeable librarian who seems to enjoy her work. The shelves were lined with faded books that begged me to ruffle through their pages. I was the only outsider in that huge building. There was a music room where the UC San Diego Music ensemble gave a concert just a few days ago. Also, it’s well worth the short one-mile drive to La Jolla’s Mt. Soledad National Veterans Memorial for a view of the only memorial that honors veterans, living or deceased, from the U.S. Revolutionary War to the war on terrorism today.

La Jolla. It’s the expensive beach cove of America. If you want to observe the vacation home of the quietly rich and famous, this is it.

Accommodations:

We stayed at the La Jolla Shores Hotel. It’s a long-established beachfront hotel. You literally see the pounding surf waves a hundred feet away from the building. Judging by its architecture, it was made in the 1980s. It isn’t a sparkling high-end hotel but the rooms are decent. The bathroom fixtures are of an earlier era. The location of the electrical outlets didn’t account for the Internet technology so they weren’t conveniently located. The food was as good as expected. The staff was very friendly and full of smiles. I was especially glad to have (free) complimentary shuttle service because I walked about two-miles from the hotel to the Village and I was too tired to walk back. Aside from beach sports, tennis, ping pong and golf are a favorite pastime. It’s a great place to hold an overnight wedding party or a weekend retreat.

Click here for more information about La Jolla

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I took a recent trip to the city and had the opportunity to see it from different angles and speeds. My adventure included a walking tour, a moonlit kayak paddle, a cruise in a Batman-type car, and a ride on a fat tire electric scooter.

My getaway began at the newest, yet oldest hotel in town, The Fin. Located on Coast Hwy, near the iconic Oceanside Pier, the property originally opened in 1927 as the Keisker and was one of the first hotels in Oceanside. In May 2018 it reopened as The Fin, a boutique hotel blending Oceanside history with modern surf culture. The 27-room property retains much of the building’s original character including multi-colored, mosaic tile flooring in the lobby, a grand wooden-railed staircase, elegant Tiffany windows and a distinctive, 1920s architectural profile.

My standard King Room at The Fin was modern and efficient, with a 49-inch HDTV, free Wi-Fi, Keurig coffee maker, microwave, minifridge, separate toilet and shower, occupancy sensor lighting, alarm clock with Bluetooth speaker and a partial ocean view.

Once unpacked, I joined friends for lunch at Saint Tropez Bistro. Set in a 130-year-old, yellow Victorian house that has become an Oceanside landmark, the eatery serves up Euro-California cuisine in a charming, intimate setting, with creaky hardwood floors and tales of ghosts.

Our lunch included delicious veggie ratatouille with zucchini, eggplant, red bell pepper, and red onion in tomato sauce; baked quiche with spinach; and smoked salmon with goat cheese, pesto and red onion. While eating, we met Rocio the manager, who told about all about the interesting history of the house / restaurant.

After lunch we explored town on foot. Part modern, part retro, Oceanside boasts an exciting and walkable downtown lined with historic structures housing eclectic shops, restaurants, museums, breweries, barbershops, and one of California’s most beautiful civic centers. The latter, designed by Architect Charles Moore, is a group of white buildings with arches and courtyards, surrounded by fountains.

A highlight of town is the “Top Gun” house, the cottage made famous in Tom Cruise’s 1986 fighter pilot movie. The Queen Anne Victorian residence was built in 1887 and is one of the oldest houses still standing in Oceanside. It is located across from the 1,942 ft-long Oceanside Pier, one of the longest wooden piers on the West Coast.

My next stop was the California Surf Museum. Celebrating the history and lifestyle of surfing, the museum showcases exhibits such as “Courageous Inspiration,” which profiles surfer Bethany Hamilton; and “China Beach,” which highlights surfing during the Vietnam War. The place also displays numerous popular surfers and the boards that made them famous, including Bethany Hamilton’s shark-bitten board.

Back at The Fin Hotel, I relaxed before walking across the street for dinner with friends at Masters Kitchen and Cocktail Restaurant. Located in a reinvented, industrial-inspired space once used as an auto drag racing shop, the restaurant serves craft cocktails and exciting, unique food. Here we met Chef Darrell Campbell and sampled some of his creative and tasty dishes.

Our culinary journey featured specialty cocktails, incredible vegan cheeses, homemade pickled vegetables, Scottish Salmon, Italian speck prosciutto, Calabrese spicy salami, black truffle salami, and beef bresaola. For dessert we devoured flourless chocolate cake, with blood orange creme fraiche and Cyclops Farms strawberry’s.

After dinner we drove to Oceanside Harbor and embarked on a guided full moon Kayak tour. The nocturnal paddling sessions take place on full moon weekends during warmer months and allow visitors to revel in the beauty and romance of Oceanside’s quaint harbor under a moonlit sky. Tours include kayak, paddle, life jacket, headlamp and a knowledgeable guide who will prepare newbies and experienced kayakers.

Our paddle was a wonderful, serene trip across calm, moonlit water, that took us past a herd of barking seals and sloops filled with million-dollar yachts, old junkets and the twinkling lights of the Harbor Village.

The next morning I drove to Oceanside Municipal Airport, where I met Kurt, founder and owner of Waverider Helicopter Tours. A Coast Guard veteran and a dual-rated commercial pilot in helicopters and airplanes, Kurt loves to show people Oceanside by land and air. His company specializes in helicopter tours of the beautiful beaches and captivating back country of San Diego County, coastal Orange County, and Temecula Wine Country. Tours range from 10 minutes to over an hour. The Robinson R44 helicopter seats four and each passenger gets a Bose noise-canceling headset to listen to the pilot and talk while flying.

The company is now taking reservations for its Holiday Light Tours, which offer a bird’s eye view of San Diego’s coastal light displays along the coast from Oceanside to Del Mar. The 30-minute light tours run December 8 through January 1. For more info call (760) 691-9144 or visit: www.waveriderhelicoptertours.com

Waverider also rents futuristic three-wheeled cars called Polaris Slingshots. During my ride in the space age convertible, me and Kurt cruised down Coast Hwy by the beach and pier, listening to the Beach Boys and turning heads. If you like flashy cars, with high-powered engines and jet-like feel, this is a great way to see Oceanside.

The last adventure on my tour of Oceanside was a ride to Mission San Luis Rey in an electric, Fat Tire scooter provided by Ride O’side. The 2018 scooter models, like the one I rented, has a 20Ah battery and a top speed of 20 miles per hour. It includes Bluetooth for listening to cell phone music, boasts 18”x 9.5” fat tires for added stability, and a front hydraulic shock that yields an unbelievably smooth ride.

My 13.9-mile ride to Mission San Luis Rey began near Oceanside Pier, where I picked up the San Luis Rey Bike Trail, a Class 1 bicycle trail completely isolated from motorized traffic. Along the way I past memorable natural scenery and a variety of bird species while following the San Luis Rey River. At the Mission, I opened my sack lunch and read about its history.

The largest of the 21 California Missions, Mission San Luis Rey was built in 1789. Its grounds feature hand carved wooden doors, bright and colorful hand painted walls and murals, and a mixture of Classical and Baroque reredos.

More information on visiting Oceanside

More information on staying at The Fin Hotel

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