As the ferry now approached from St. Thomas, I couldn’t help but think, “Oh no, there are so many buildings, so little space.” Dismay and longing set in but I tried to withhold judgment. The island is still two-thirds a national park, after all. But yes, Cruz Bay is now a thriving metropolis with multiple hotels, more than a dozen restaurants and a multi-tiered shopping center. I reminded myself there is still no airport, only one elementary school, no high school and although there are now twice as many gas stations, that just makes two. And therein lays the beauty of St. John — and considerable beauty it is — both then and now.

Once out of Cruz Bay, I started to relax; which is not to say that changes haven’t occurred in 50 years. The old donkey trails that then served as roads have since been paved. Still, the twists and turns are as sharp as the roads are steep and the same 4-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended.

Visitor facilities, which fortunately include bathrooms, have been considerably upgraded. Hiking trails — and there are an abundance of them — are better marked than they used to be though not as free of brush as they may yet be.

The bad news for some is that there are more cars now than horses. The locals view traffic as congested when they don’t know every person coming towards them. Current controversy revolves around whether or not to install the island’s first stoplight. A few more homes dot the mountainside than before but it’s hardly track housing. The increase in drugs and crime no doubt parallels that development everywhere.

The colors of the translucent water reflect every shade of blue found in even the largest box of Crayola crayons. The tourist litany, “I can’t believe the color; it doesn’t look real,” is repeated so often as to become predictable. Small stretches of sea and sand beckon as if they’re your own private beach, with the long stretches of white sand surrounding the island forming a blanket of beaches as inviting as satin sheets and plush pillows at the end of an exhausting day.  Parts of the island, despite an occasional $14M vacation home on the horizon, still feel remote, full of windy, narrow roads umbrellered by mountainous greenery. Signs of 2017’s Hurricane Irma are only noticeable if you know to look for them.

The road along the northern edge of the island strings together one breathtaking vista after another, the views interrupted only by the need to periodically swerve to avoid a distracted donkey or two vying for road space. None of that has changed.  And the best news of all? Unlike most other islands, not a single fast-food restaurant has contaminated the local landscape.

Although much of the unspoiled beauty of St. John promises to resist the ravages of time — and man — several ecological efforts are underway to help nature make good on its promise. Because of its preserved status, St. John has been environmentally correct long before it became trendy to be so.

But okay, there IS that shopping center. Mongoose Junction — a huge mini-shopping center that no doubt appeals to some as a stone-stuccoed, multi-tiered, old-fashioned boutique housed in pre-Colonial architecture and garnished with tropical plants. Most people would probably love it. I found it an infringement on my memory of a Cruz Bay that had no shops and only one restaurant. Thank goodness there still is the random rooster casually crossing the street to remind me of those times.

The island has become a working model for ecologists worldwide in the study of tropical ecosystems, soil conservation, coral reef erosions and the preservation of wild and marine life. The presence of recycling bins on otherwise secluded stretches of white-sand beaches underscores this commitment.

You can spend your days snorkeling from one end of the island to the other. Trunk Bay, with its clearly marked underwater trail describing native inhabitants who conveniently swim by as if on cue, is the favored destination of cruise ship field trips — and is viewed by the park service somewhat as a sacrificial lamb. Go elsewhere, where the beaches are a lot less crowded and the marine life as plentiful even if unlabeled. Cinnamon Bay, Haulover Bay, Salt Pond Bay and Francis Bay, where a colony of sea turtles regularly cavorts, are among the most recommended.

Over 20 miles of hiking trails beg for quiet traversal on foot while more than four-dozen beaches beckon sun worshippers and surfers. History buffs can seek out ruins of 18th-century sugar mills while water sports enthusiasts can rent everything from SCUBA equipment to jet skis.

Consider hiring a tour guide knowledgeable in both authentic history and ancient folklore — several hang out at the taxi stand in Cruz Bay — to show you the sights and sounds of St. John. For instance, 33-year-resident and guide Kenneth Louis will regale you with tales of island history and culture while pointing out little known nudist beaches along with the more conventional attractions.

Hear about St. John 50 years ago, 25 years ago, and now. Learn firsthand how much has changed — and how much hasn’t. And when you come back to visit 25 years from now — although it’s unlikely you’ll wait that long for a return trip — no doubt much of the island will still be the same. For more information, visit St. John.

The post St. John: Little Has Changed in 50 Years appeared first on Traveling Archive.

It’s not often a visit to a destination hotel includes a history tour spanning several centuries. However, history permeates the grounds of The Buccaneer Resort on St. Croix in the U.S. Virgin Islands which was originally opened by Douglas Armstrong in 1947. As the longest running property in the Caribbean, it is also the only one run by the same family.

As always, U.S. residents don’t need a passport to visit St. Croix, but in our current travel environment, they also don’t need to take a COVID test before returning to the mainland. Unlike most other Caribbean destinations, which fall under new COVID-19 travel requirements issued by the Centers for Disease Control, St. Croix is part of a U.S. territory and therefore considered domestic travel.

Even though the island has enjoyed a consistently low rate of COVID cases, the resort has modified its operations to account for new health and safety measures. Its restaurants are open (and by open, I mean open-air!), as are the golf and tennis clubs. The spa is now offering beachfront massages rather than indoor treatments, and the recreation department has developed entirely new ways to provide the free water-sport equipment. Fully sanitized snorkeling gear is delivered to guest rooms before check-in, eliminating the need for any personal contact.

Local captains, who take hotel guests out to Buck Island Reef for snorkeling excursions, have reduced the number of people on their boats and use enhanced sanitizing measures on all equipment. And the safety of that fascinating world-class venue is further ensured… because it’s all underwater!

Back on land, which is set on 240 sprawling acres, with dramatic views of the sea or the mountains around every turn, the resort could be full and you would not feel crowded. Separate groupings of rooms and buildings span the layout; yet, somehow, the entire complex seems easily accessible.

The activities are endless: tetherball to basketball, corn hole to ping pong, kayaking and snorkeling to protocol-friendly fitness center – those are the free ones. For a fee, there are spa treatments, art lessons, yoga, golf, tennis and salsa lessons. Those into jet skis will have to go elsewhere; most guests are delighted there’s nothing motorized to break the serenity.

Although the largest of the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. Croix is small enough to be manageable in a single day’s drive. The island provides a comfortable, laid-back middle ground between the frenzy of shopping,
commercialism and noisy nightlife on St. Thomas, and the tomb-quiet
setting of St. John, with much to see and appreciate within a short-driving distance.  The Buccaneer reflects that St. Croix quality.

The current Armstrong, Elizabeth, is Douglas’ grandchild and 8^th-generation Crucian, and it is her emphasis on service that really distinguishes the resort. I didn’t encounter a single employee who didn’t greet me with a warm smile and a sincere desire to help.  That doesn’t happen by accident. Hiring is very stringent, and every member of the staff undergoes a training process that took two years to develop, and is reinforced daily.

The only breakdown in service occasionally comes at mealtime. While the food is well prepared and presented, you could practically play a round of golf between courses. Just think island time – it’s how the Caribbean runs.

Elizabeth started working at the hotel at age 8 picking up litter. Fascinated by all the lights and sounds, she graduated a year later to switchboard operator – and continued on to learn every aspect of the hotel business.

Some of the staff she knew as a child are still working at the resort: “Fifty percent of the staff has been here 20-plus years – they feel like it’s their Buccaneer.” Working here since 1991, head server Patricia Joseph is a fixture at The Terrace, one of three hotel restaurants. When I asked her why this one hotel for so long, she replied: “It’s my calling to make sure every guest feels welcome in a relaxing environment with memories that make them want to return to The Buccaneer year after year.”

And come back they do. “We have been coming for more than two decades with multiple family members,” says Greg Racz of New York. “Elizabeth Armstrong runs a wonderful family oriented resort where you can be as active or as lazy as you want, which is why we make our reservations for next year the day we check out!”

Lying in the sun at Mermaid Beach at five in the evening, cocktail in hand and looking up at palm fronds gently swaying overhead, brought a very self-satisfied smile to my face. It was 20 degrees back home.  At this point, I couldn’t be less interested in its history.

The Buccaneer is not the most opulent resort, and I mean that in a good way. It’s homey and welcoming and comfortable. Even the most luxurious suites are not lavish. What they are is spacious: I could get more exercise walking from the bedroom to the closet than I do from my treadmill at home.

But for exercise, I preferred an evening jog along the nature trail. I increased my heartbeat while decreasing my stress level, running between, around and among water lily ponds (one with resident egret often in attendance), mangroves, flowered pathways, ageless Mahogany trees, all often within sight of the sea. Hard to go back to the treadmill.

An emphasis on eco-friendly tourism is ever-present. Something I found of particular interest was that all of the water is recycled: bath and waste water is used for irrigation, rainwater for drinking and desalinated sea water for general washing. I like that in a resort. I basically like everything at the resort – and the fact that I could feel so safe doing so was a plus.

For more information, call 800/255-3881, or visit www.thebuccaneer.com.

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