When most people think of the DR, they think beaches and when they think beaches, they think All-Inclusives. And Punta Cana, whose admittedly beautiful beaches are lined with a succession of All-Inclusives, is the most visited (read: touristy) destination in the DR. We didn’t go there.

Instead, we opted for Puerta Plata, on the north coast, which also boasts lovely beaches but it offers a wealth of other activities not available in Punta Cana. Here you can see the countryside, meet the people, visit real towns and connect with nature. In Punta Cana, you connect mainly with other resort guests. And the best way to experience the north coast is through the wide variety of adventure options offered by Iguana Mama.

Back at the waterfall, outfitted in a life jacket and helmet, we began our trek ascending to the top of the waterfall of choice. Then we proceeded to swim, hike, jump and clamber our way to the bottom. As we rounded one bend, my initial reaction was, “You expect me to jump WHERE?” But the guides flawlessly aided and abetted my descent so that I hardly felt the extent of the exertion. The first several pools at the top are the easiest to navigate, increasing in difficulty — or fun, depending upon your perspective — nearer the bottom. But the guides are there to literally lend a hand — or other body parts — as needed.

Usually descent is the simpler matter. Not so here. The main options are surging down a series of natural water slides or jumping over falls into pool after pool of clear, flowing river water. Although the highest jump is a somewhat terrifying 25 feet (depending on water levels), there’s an alternate way down for those who prefer that. Most, however, are about the size of a high dive board at your local pool.

Line Freij, visiting from Sweden, described the experience as “a real adrenaline kick!” She confessed: “I was a little shaky in the knees after the first jump but after that, I felt like a pro, but my favorite part was the slides.” Lunch is provided as a reward for actually making it down.

In one canyon, standing in the water below, rocks protruding on all sides, I was surprised to look up and see a forest above. It was an other-worldly confluence of several of nature’s best features not usually assembled together all in one place. It is that same emphasis on the off-the-beaten-track connection with nature that propels the philosophy behind Iguana Mama.

Although 27 Waterfalls is the most popular, you can choose from four different waterfall options — with or without zip lines — that vary in terms of difficulty. That kind of choice is what distinguishes IM from other tour companies.

Another day, another outing, this time a hike through the Choco National Park. But as with everything Mama, this was not just a hike; it involved the exploration of a variety of caves that added a whole new dimension to the usual walk in the woods.

As in all caves, the stalactites and stalagmites give them their eerie sense of wonder, their grotesque shapes and yawning divides forging a sinister, ethereal quality to the caverns. The faraway sound of Coqui tree frogs chirping from below the surface reinforces the ghostlike ambience. The water is so clear you do not even know it’s there until a sliver of rock causes it to ripple. According to our guide, stalagmites grow only 1mm a year, and if you touch them, the grease from your finger prevents water from being absorbed and therefore stymies their growth. They didn’t appear any the worse for wear.

Every cave is different. Climbing down over rocks and roots, using vines for leverage, into the cave allows a personal connection not accessible when looking down from above. Grabbing the jagged limestone outcroppings for support as I tentatively slithered down boulder over boulder, I became immersed in a stalagmite jungle; the gingerly scramble back up was equally exhilarating. As a bonus, there is an option to swim in one of the cave pools.

If there is an outdoor adventure to be had in Puerta Plata and its environs, Iguana Mama probably provides it. Rounding out its long resume, in addition to its many waterfall, and hiking options, there is also canyoning, cascading, catamaran sails, diving and snorkeling, zip lining, horseback riding, ATV adventures and more.

And as the first such adventure tour operator in the area, IM still focuses on preserving the non-commercial, less touristy aspect of adventure travel with a strong emphasis on eco-tourism. Just one caveat: Because Iguana Mama changes its options occasionally, not everything mentioned here may be available on your visit.

But just because you’ve chosen to see more of the countryside doesn’t mean you have to forego sun and surf. Rest assured, Puerto Plata also has beaches.

For more information about Iguana Mama, visit www.iguanamama.com.

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For the uninitiated – mostly everyone – SNUBA, not surprisingly, is a cross between scuba and snorkeling. Unencumbered by the heavy accoutrements of scuba divers who have air tanks on their back allowing them to access 60 feet below the surface, SNUBA participants simply have fins and a mask similar to snorkelers but which is attached to an outside oxygen supply that allows them to dive 10-20 feet below the surface and see way more than is usually accessible to the average snorkeler.

I was up close and personal with the coral moonscape and the many multi-colored residents who call it home. Trigger fish, trumpets, sergeant major fish, blue parrots, butterfly fish — “The list is so long it would take me a whole day to tell you,” my instructor claimed. At one point, he directed me to the bottom to look underneath a big coral formation where a Puffer Fish was happily hiding. You can’t do that when snorkeling!

And that barely touches the surface – so to speak – of what De Palm Island has to offer. An all-inclusive day trip a five-minute ferry ride away – but worlds away in terms of excitement – De Palm offers a smorgasbord of food and activities. First, let’s deal with the basics: $109 per adult buys you unlimited snorkeling tours with free snorkel gear, an impressive waterpark for the kids, exhilarating water slides for the kid in you, banana boat rides galore, as much food and drink as you can handle, and, of course, salsa lessons. And oh yes, a variety of sandy beaches with chaise lounges and palapas to relax upon if you can find the time. And that’s just for starters.

Usually in the Caribbean you see a lot of flamingoes, but they’re usually in the form of mailboxes, lawn decorations or home décor. On De Palm, they’re there to entertain you in the flesh. The stately, pretty, light pink, long-legged birds happily roam their own sandy habitat at their leisure for you to interact with at yours.

So not only does De Palm Island offer SNUBA, of which there are only about 56 operations worldwide, but also Sea Trek, with the same number of opportunities around the globe – but to have them both in the same place. Highly rare!

So what’s Sea Trek you ask? Donning a huge helmet with breathing apparatus, you walk along a cushioned sea bottom 10-15 feet below the surface, always following certain caveats – remain vertical at all time, walk and breathe, yawn to equalize pressure, hold on to the hand rails and never look down.

Forget flapping flippers or your snorkel mask filling with water. Here, you just have to focus on the multitudes of fish swarming around you. Admittedly, the thought of a 72-pound helmet on my 90-pound frame initially sounded a little daunting, but once in the water it was very manageable – even if the diver-guide had to keep re-adjusting it to fit my face.

And, of course, a video was taken to be sold later – and for the sake of said video, we had to pretend to drink a bottle of wine and pretend to drive an underwater vehicle. Also to actually stroke a sea cucumber and a very scaly sea start. But I was in it for the fish – and at times there were so many of them, I felt an integral part of their school which I suspect was more fun for me than the fish….

Along with the SNUBA and Sea Trek add-ons, you can also opt for a well-stocked private cabana, a back or foot massage, a DIY craft shop or a henna tattoo, but the pick-up basketball game is free as is so much else. The kids waterpark with age-appropriate slides and the ever-present bucket of water on high that spills over at unexpected intervals elicited the de rigueur squeals of joy every time. A number of snorkeling areas consistently populated by bouncing snorkel-masked heads that once would have beckoned me had I not just experienced other fish-enhanced realms of a much higher order. And the always inviting chaise lounges enabling you to listen to the surf hitting the rocks – sheer heaven!

De Palm Island, Aruba: one of the most unique sources of unending entertainment above and below water imaginable. And from which they had to drag me, kicking and screaming. This time, without flippers. For more information, visit De Palm Island.

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