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Ride With John Aboard
Europe's Most Dazzling and Luxurious Train
Words by John Clayton
His name is James B. Sherwood – a successful American businessman and train aficionado, and he made it his overriding passion to bring it back to its former glory. Scouting the world he found, and lavishly refurbished to their original luxury condition, 35 sleeping cars and restaurant cars, and named his company "The Venice Simplon Orient Express" (VSOE). I was privileged a few years ago to ride this amazing train from Verona in Italy to Paris, France. With the capacity for 188 guests, it has 3 restaurant cars, and a magnificent piano bar that made me feel as if I was part of that great Bogart/Bergman movie Casablanca. A suit and tie (or formal dinner attire!) are de rigueur for dinner, and the gourmet food is simply superb, presented on fine Italian china, with wine served in French stemware crystal – and with waiters who are the personification of real service. My Cabin Steward was the epitome of really gracious service. They're all immaculately groomed and, if you wish, they'll serve you breakfast in bed (!), change your cabin from day to night configuration, and are on call 24/7 by a bell in the cabin. The restoration of these classic coaches is superb, making you think you're traveling in the luxury and opulence of the original train. The splendid cabin, and even the sheets on your bed, are all perfect, and in mint condition – and supremely comfortable.
Everything has been restored to how it was when the Orient Express was at its peak of fame in the 20s and 30s. Inlaid wood paneling, gold fittings on various parts of the coach and even a firebox at the end of some of the coaches. When I asked my steward how come they did not install central heating throughout the train, I was told that Mr. Sherwood wanted to have the VSOE be exactly as it was when it came into service – that is, heated by such "fireplaces." And yes, it was toasty warm and very comfortable, and gave me a tangible sense of the VSOE's historic history.
The VSOE lets you sample the joys and beauty of Italy, Switzerland and France, so there is a change of engines in all 3 countries. The scene – as we changed from our Italian engine to one from Switzerland – takes place at the world famous Brenner Pass. With the "snowy silence" and crisp mountain air during this changeover, it made me feel I as part of the famous Agatha Christie story about this celebrated train.
I've ridden most of the world's great trains, and can tell you without question, THIS was the train experience of my life. I smiled to myself when I heard one guest remark, "if you've got the money honey, you can charter this train for your own special European trip." If you haven't done so already, make your reservation right now!
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and Queens have relished its opulence; international entertainment stars
have been pampered by its luxury; books have been written about it;
big budget Hollywood movies have detailed its storied past. It is the
world renowned Orient Express, which began service in 1883. When
the service was discontinued in 1977, there was one enterprising entrepreneur
who was determined that this magic, luxury, and opulence, could still
be offered to those who desired only the finest in unique travel.
