I lived in a village in the Swiss Alps for two years when I was a little girl and I remember the delicious crunch of the new fallen snow under my shoes on a cold, still Christmas Eve when I was allowed to attend midnight Mass in the village church. The bells rang sharp and clear in the frosty air, the stars twinkled in the dark sky and I knew I would soon see my Christmas presents. All was well with my wee world.

All that, as well as the larger world around me, is much changed. But a night in December, on a snowcovered mountain high above Zurich, its lights aglow in the valley below, brings back the memory of that Christmas Eve.

The Christmas markets, special treats of the season in Germany, Austria and Switzerland, evoke the Christmas in a child’s imagination. A grownup’s, too. A funicular ride to the top of another part of the Alps above Innsbruck in Austria and a romantic Christmas market on the tiny Isle of Women (Fraueninsel) in the Chiemsee in Bavaria spell an Alpine Christmas as it ought to be.

“Every Southerner knows the past is not dead,” the novelist William Faulkner famously said, “it’s not even past.” Not just for Faulkner’s kinsmen, but for all of us at Christmas. The Christmas season in the German speaking world begins with the Christmas markets, usually held from the beginning of Advent in late November to Dec. 23 or even into Christmas Eve, an ancient tradition that originated in Germany, with credit going to Dresden as the oldest market dating from 1434. In fact, an earlier market took place in Bautzen, Saxony, in 1384 and an even earlier December market is recorded in Vienna in 1294. Today, there are Christmas markets all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland, as well as in the United States where the largest is in Chicago.

Germany’s large cities, such as Dresden, Nuremberg, Leipzig, Frankfurt and Munich all have numerous markets, large and small. In Munich, Marienplatz, the city’s central square, is a busy warren of stalls. Crowds of marketgoers jostle one another for a look at a crystal ornament, a piece of jewelry, or a hot sausage to go with the cup of gluehwein.

Nearby is the medieval market, less noisy and redolent with the fragrance of flammbrot in the oven, a pizza like bread topped with meats or cheeses and baked in a wood burning oven. Everything is hand-made; shopkeepers and demonstrators dress in medieval costumes, lending stalls a Gothic air.

A smaller market specializes in nativity figures and scenes. One of the newer markets is located in the courtyard of the splendid Royal Residence. The most innovative of Munich’s market is Tollwood, on the huge field where the annual Oktoberfest in held. Tollwood was organized in 1991 and combines traditional booths with a wealth of international ones, some outdoors and dozens of others in tents, lighted from outside in bright colors. Huge sculptures adorn the grounds. Tollwood is a site for theatrical performances and in the bar-café tent, Munich’s music scene plays along with beer and sausages.

In Zurich, Switzerland’s largest city, the chief market is in the railroad station. An enormous fairy-tale Christmas tree, adorned with thousands of sparkling Swarovski crystal ornaments, presides over the market, the largest indoor market in Europe. Truly a wonder to behold.

Smaller markets are scattered throughout the city. On one of the downtown squares, just off Zurich’s famous Bahnhofstrasse shopping street, a “singing Christmas tree” entertains passersby in the late afternoon. The members of a Zurich gospel choir sing American gospel songs, swaying to the music in tiers in front of a large tree.

In Innsbruck, Austria, the Christmas market has taken over the Old Town. Stalls are set up beneath the vaulted stone arcades, leading to stalls in the narrow streets and alleys. Enormous replicas of fairy-tale figures adorn many of the second and third floors of the Old Town houses. The children are especially delighted.

Innsbruck, the capital of the state of Tirol, was once a powerful independent state, and in the 15th century the seat of the Holy Roman Empire. Tirol was divided at the end of World War I when the southern part was ceded to Italy, and on a three-day weekend Innsbruck is overrun with Italians up to shop at the Christmas market and to enjoy the Austrian hospitality. Tiroleans are open and friendly to visitors.

Skiers get out early on the northern and southern slopes surrounding the city, the site of the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics. Snow bunnies can ride up thousands of feet on the Hungerburg funicular and the ascent of the cable car that would leave James Bond breathless. At the top, there’s a splendid view of the city and a comfortable café-restaurant from whence to watch the skiers glide down the mountainside.

Visitors don’t have to climb to the top of the mountain to visit the spectacular Bergisel ski jumping stadium on the outskirts of the city. Designed by Iraqi born Zaha Hadid in 2002, the ski jump is used in January for a skiing event; in the summer, athletes train on a special plastic covering.

But perhaps the real charm of Christmas markets lies in the small towns and villages of Bavaria and Tirol. In Berchtesgaden, a historic old market town that has long been a winter and summer resort, the past is both dead and alive. Berchtesgaden was a favorite of Hitler’s. The houses occupied by Hitler and his Nazi henchmen were all destroyed at the end of World War II, with the exception of a hotel used by the Nazis. Tourists can visit Hitler’s bunkers beneath the hotel, and nearby is a small museum reflecting Hitler’s stay. The grim, gray Eagle’s Nest remains a curiosity, but more for its precarious perch on the mountaintop than for its association with the Nazis. The 20th century significance of the town is not mentioned in brochures or by tourist organizations. The locals want this past to stay dead.

Faulkner’s words come alive, however, in the curious ancient Christmas tradition on the feast day of St. Nicholas. As a rule, children leave their shoes outside their bedroom doors on the night of December 5th in anticipation of goodies left by St. Nick. In Berchtesgaden, however, it’s the white-bearded Bishop Nicholas who roams through the village accompanied by a crew of fearsome buttnmandl and krampus, the former covered from head to tow in straw, the latter in fur with both groups wearing hideous masks with a long red tongue that frighten more than the village children. Attached to their backs are enormous cow bells weighing up to 45 pounds that clank in cacophony as they run through the village streets with long switches in hand. Anyone in the path of these young men is subject to a blow on the legs — not a gentle one – and having black coal smeared on his or her face. Sometimes a girl is cornered and pushed to the ground; a child screams under the force of a blow to his legs. This is a violent reminder of a barbaric past, despite the concept that the original purpose was to drive out evil spirits, so beware.

Berchtesgaden still honors the coming of the Christ child by ringing bells and Christmas shooting, a custom dating back to the 17th century. Guns are fired every afternoon at 3 during the week before Christmas, to the accompaniment of church bells.

Not far from Berchtesgaden is Bad Reichenhall, a small spa town made rich by its saline springs. In the early 20th century, King Ludwig I of Bavaria built saltworks and a spa house in pseudo medieval style. The special Christmas market in Bad Reichenhall, where the Reber bakery and restaurant claim to make the original Mozartkugel (chocolate marzipan balls) sold everywhere in Salzburg, is an indoor craft market held in the graceful town hall in the second weekend of Advent.

As silent as Berchtesgarden is noisy, the lovely Fraueninsel (Isle of Women) Christmas market entices visitors from neighboring towns. The island on the Chiemsee is populated by a beautiful old Benedictine convent (now used as a school), a few hotels and restaurants, a handful of charming cottages and, at Christmas time, a Christmas market sprawling over the entire little island. Lit by candles and torches, the market is a magical place, especially when snow falls. In the cemetery adjacent to the convent, candles flicker in red glass containers beside each grave. This custom is honored as well in the Berchtesgaden cemetery.

Candles, nativity scenes, special pastries, wooden Christmas tree ornaments and Christmas trees galore are part of the Bavarian, Tirolean and Swiss traditions. In these regions, children are traditionally not allowed to see their tree before sunset on Christmas Eve, but the decorations and lights everywhere, and the festive atmosphere of the Christmas markets create excitement and anticipation that goes well beyond anything commercial. Christmas is still taken seriously here, and when the bells ring out with the message of the Christ child on Christmas Eve, everyone knows something special is about to happen.

When You Go:

United Airlines flies nonstop from the U.S. to Munich and Zurich. Swiss flies from New York nonstop to Zurich. Lufthansa flies from the U.S. to Munich.

Train connections between Munich, Innsbruck and Zurich are frequent and convenient. Tickets can be purchased in the U.S. from RailEurope at www.raileurope.com.

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My wife Brigitte, and our two daughters Michelle and Heidi, were part of the crowd at the base of the Kehlsteinhaus (more commonly known as the Eagle’s Nest in English-speaking countries) which was a Third Reich-era building erected atop the summit of the Kehlstein, a rocky outcrop that rises above the Obersalzberg near the town of Berchtesgaden, Germany.

As a longtime military aficionado, and having suffered under the Nazi bombing of my home in London in WW2, I’d frequently wondered about the Eagle’s Nest and how one actually got there. My knowledge was minimal and consisted of such facts as I knew it was used exclusively by members of the Nazi Party for government and social meetings.

Consequently I was delighted when a guide we encountered was, thank goodness, a talkative type, and I listened in rapt attention when he told us that Hitler had an everlasting fear of heights (wow, THAT was news to me!) and because the “Nest” was situated 6,017 feet from ground level, he’d only visited 14 times. Getting up there was, well, equally spellbinding – at least to me: I seriously doubted our two children were as thrilled as I was by how we got up there.

Just before we began our journey to the “Nest” itself, we stopped at a Kitschy sort of Gift Shop at the base of the mountain and purchased one of the outrageous hats on display. Curiously, there were no postcards of the place nor even the surroundings, but as we visited in the late 1980s I feel sure that now in 2019, gift shops are everywhere, with all hawking every kind of souvenir under the sun.

Getting to the top is by bus, and it travels along the one lane 4 mile road that circles around the mountain to the summit. At exactly the same time that our bus departed, another at the top left for the journey down and, typical for the Germans’, they both meet in the middle at the same time – where the “Down Bus” moved into a small turnout so our bus could continue upwards. Once you get THERE, you’ll see the entrance to a tunnel which leads to an elevator. As you enter the brick walled passageway it is eerily quiet and almost dark, and it reminded me of a scary Halloween ride I’d once taken. The walls (at least when we visited) appeared to be damp and glistened with droplets of water. It was right at that moment when it hit me like the proverbial ton of bricks: Hitler had personally walked the very same passageway where I was now walking. It was chilling and yes, creepy, to acknowledge – instantly – WHERE one was, and WHO had trod this hallway all those decades ago.

This weirdness and indeed even fearfulness, was heightened as we entered the interior of an ornate gold hued, polished brass elevator where all 4 sides were Venetian mirrors encased in green leather. The apprehension one felt only increased when the elevator operator, in a very melodramatic voice said “This is THE elevator that Hitler used each time he came here.” He paused, then, almost whispering said, “Nothing has been changed.” It’s only a brief ride as it ascends the 407 feet to the top. We were informed that the Eagle’s Nest project took 13 months to build in the late 1930s during which 12 workers had died. The site is now a restaurant, beer garden and, of course, tourist site. Needless to say, the awesome scenic views of the surrounding mountainous scenery, are stunning.

In April, 1945 a fleet of British RAF bombers went there to obliterate everything as it was rumored that Hitler was hiding there. He wasn’t. However, due to the problem of distinguishing the ACTUAL target, the only thing demolished was the Berghof area. Given the infamy of the place there’s always been some controversy as to which of the Allies FIRST reached it. Among those claiming to have been first, were various units of the US Army; a French Armored division; and even some Spanish soldiers. My lengthy research indicates it was the US 101^st Airborne who were the first to get into the Kehlsteinhaus, and the town of Berchtesgaden. Either way, visiting THIS historic site was one of my all-time most fascinating experiences. I hope you too will find time to visit. CONTACT John:

jd******@gm***.com

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Oktoberfest is celebrated around the world, but only in Germany can you return to the original source of the world’s largest Volkfest. You’ve travelled for the live music, traditional costumes, parades and sheer joy of festival revelers. But after the Oktoberfest festival running from September 16 – October 3, it is possible to trace the festival’s historical roots while exploring Munich, and a side-trip to majestic Berchtesgaden, where the festival is very much an important part of Bavarian culture and heritage.

When in Munich

• Celebrate Oktoberfest in style and get into your best traditional costume. The Bavarian wear is identified as “Tracht.” For women, the Bavarian dress is known as a dirndl and for a man you can outfit yourself in a pair of lederhosen. Our recommended shop in Munich, is the Angermaier, in business for over 60 years and specializing in traditional Bavarian costumes.
• After enjoying the German Oompah at Oktoberfest in your traditional costumes, visit the Bavarian National Museum to learn about art, history, theatre and more. The museum is divided into two main groups: the art historical collection and the folklore collection.
• Travel to the southern suburbs of Munich and find the must-see beer garden, the Waldwirtschaft (a.k.a WA-WI). Here you can find an outdoor space in the jazz beer garden and traditional food stalls to enjoy.

Where to stay

• Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski Munich, centrally located in the heart of Munich, is the ideal place to stay to make the most of the vibrant city during Oktoberfest. The hotel offers guests a range of luxury room and suite types. Guests can indulge in the luxury spa, a swimming pool as well as the breathtaking view over the rooftops of Munich.

• • Unwind at hotel’s Old-World lobby bar that offers calm, intimacy and elegance. The refuge sits outside the chic Maximilianstrasse, one of the city’s four royal avenues.  (source: www.boldmagainze.com)

Not to be missed

• There is a saying that sausages should not be allowed to hear the chime of the church bells. The infamous Weisswurst (literally white sausage) are prepared in the morning and eaten as a snack between breakfast and lunch, a.k.a “the morning sausage.”

Oktoberfest beer facts

• Bavaria’s purity requirements, a regulation since the 16^th century, decreed by Duke William IV. In 1516 deemed only water, hops and barley should be used in Bavarian beer.
• The six breweries are Paulaner, Spaten, Löwenbräu, Augustiner, Hofbräu and Hacker-Pschorr.
• The oldest Munich brewery is Augustiner, founded in 1328.
• The festival has served about 7.3 million litres of beer; that is enough to fill almost three Olympic-size pools.
• About 500-600 passports are routinely lost at the festival.

When in the Berchtesgaden

• Pack your lederhosens and leave the German Oompah behind for the Bavarian Alps. The spirit of Oktoberfest can be felt in all corners of Germany. This is the place to retreat from the crowds and experience alpine towns, stunning mountains and beautiful vistas.
• Enjoy lunch at the not-as-crowded Bier Hall, Hofbräuhaus Berchtesgaden. The Bier Hall was founded in 1645, by Fustpropst Ferdinand, Duke of Bavaria.
• The unmatched view from the Eagle’s nest, now a beer garden that was Hitler’s 50^th birthday present.

Where to stay

• Kempinski Hotel Berchtesgaden. A unique blend of five-star luxury, Bavarian style, warmth and recreational activities make the property one of the most special locations in the Bavarian locations in the Bavarian Alps. Here, 1000 m high in the mountains, guests can relax, unwind and enjoy being close to nature.

Not to be missed tips from Manuel Huber, Activity Concierge at the Kempinski Hotel Berchtesgaden

• Within a few minute’s drive, guests at Kempinski Hotel Berchtesgaden can reach the crystal-clear, emerald green Königssee lake surrounded by its fairy-tale mountain scenery.
• A hiking tour from Maria Gern to the Kneifelspitze.
• The festivities centred around the Markletplatz (market square) in Berchtesgaden during Oktoberfest.

How to See San Francisco Without Spending a Fortune

It’s important to visit San Francisco on a budget. As with most tourist meccas, San Francisco offers plenty of easy ways to pay big money for things that won’t really enhance your experience. Consider some budget travel planning tips.

“The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco” is a quote attributed erroneously to Mark Twain.

Cliche? Yes.
Completely false? Not really. A common saying is that San Francisco has three seasons: winter, summer and fog. August days are frequently chilly and foggy. Even Independence Day fireworks are sometimes obscured in cloud cover. The incredible variety of terrain in this region makes for “micro climates” that can literally make major differences within a few miles of one another. Autumn is a nice time to visit, and winters are mild. No matter when you visit, pack a jacket or sweater. Many first-timers misjudge the climactic challenges — one of eight common mistakes made by San Francisco visitors.

Where to Eat:

San Francisco offers quite a few budget menus and moderately priced eateries to its visitors. Go to SFGate.com and check out their Top 100 restaurants. About 20 of those selections are budget-oriented eateries. General advice: Chinese food is very good here, and tends to be less expensive than other choices.

For a splurge, consider Pesce, a romantic restaurant at 2223 Market Street. Despite the fact that it is considered one of the city’s best restaurants, entrees are under $20 here.

Where to Stay:

This has long been a city that attracted younger visitors, and it has a network of hostels. Beds typically cost $25-$35/night and sometimes include breakfast.

If you seek a hotel room, there are also great budget properties where you can quickly find convenient connections to mass transit and area attractions.

Four-star hotel worth checking for specials: Argonaut Hotel at Fisherman’s Wharf frequently is too costly for a budget visit, but they bundle travel products and sometimes offer lower rates than you might expect for such a prime location.

Airbnb.com offers some accommodation in the city, but sometimes provides a wider variety of choices outside of San Francisco in places like Sausalito in Marin County to the north, or Berkeley, home of the University of California. Both of these places are also fine locations for some on-foot exploration if you need a break from the city.

Getting Around:

From the airport, connect with Air Train for connections into San Francisco or San Jose. Bay Area Rapid Transit (known as BART) covers the region. Tickets act like debit cards and fares are based on distance traveled. Unfortunately, that means BART does not sell all-day, unlimited travel passes as you find in other large cities. But they do offer some huge discounts. For example: persons with disabilities, Medicare cardholders and those 5 to 12 years or over 65 pay far less than the standard fares.

Look for the Red and Green Ticket options. Children under 4 ride free. You can plan your travel and budget for the cost with an online calculator. BART provides service to both San Francisco (SFO) and Oakland (OAK) airports.

Bay Area Attractions:

San Francisco Walking Tours provides free guides for exploring more than 70 areas. Although free, please tip your guide at the end of the tour and help support this non-profit organization. A City Pass allows admissions, cable car rides and bay cruises.

The former island prison known as Alcatraz is the single most popular attraction here. There is no admission fee (Alcatraz is operated by the National Park Service) but getting to the island involves buying a ferry ticket. The Union Square and Fisherman’s Wharf areas are also visitor favorites. Shop carefully for Alcatraz excursions: There are a variety of companies that offer this tour, and many will combine it with Muir Woods, Angel Island, or any number of other places at a variety of prices.

Beyond the Bay:

Muir Woods National Monument just north of the city features a stand of coastal redwood trees. Admission is free for those under 16 years of age, and modest for everyone else. Further north, the Napa and Sonoma valleys are renowned for their wine industries. To the south of the bay, Monterrey and Carmel offer scenic coastal views such as the 17-mile drive. Further afield, you can visit Yosemite National Park in less than a day’s drive, but it’s probably better to stop there on your way in or out of the Bay Area. Day trips from San Francisco can be rushed and expensive.

Unique San Francisco Experiences not to be Missed:

First visit? Don’t miss taking a cable car ride. Here’s an experience that’s vintage San Francisco and relatively inexpensive. Tickets can be purchased on board or at street kiosks. To avoid long waits in the summer, try the the California St. line, which runs east-west from Market and California to Van Ness Ave.

The best view of San Francisco could be at Twin Peaks: From 17th and Clayton Streets, go south on Clayton and then veer to the right at Twin Peaks Blvd. You can also pick up northbound Twin Peaks from Portola Drive. Follow it upward and you’ll get a sweeping view. It is often breezy and cool here, and summer fog can obscure the great view. But when it’s clear, it’s a free attraction!

Jazz and Japanese food: sound like an unlikely combination? Not at Yoshi’s on Oakland’s Jack London Square. Many single show tickets are less than $30. Some reviewers say this is the best jazz on the West Coast.

How about a walk across the Golden Gate Bridge? Only fog can spoil the magnificent views from the deck of this engineering masterpiece. Many people drive across the bridge without being able to savor the views. Board buses #28 or #29, either of which stops right at the bridge toll plaza.

More about walking: As with all great cities, San Francisco has some fascinating neighborhoods that are best explored on foot. Best months: May and October.

Discounts and Savings Opportunities:

If you’ll be spending several days here, consider the purchase of a GO San Francisco Card: This is a card you buy prior to your trip and then activate on first use. You can buy from one- to five-day cards (cost: $69-$155) good for free admission at dozens of local attractions. Design your itinerary before you consider a Go San Francisco purchase, to determine if the investment will save you money on admissions.

Two ways to buy discount theater tickets: Through TheatreBayArea.Org you can order discounted seats online for a variety of shows. You can also visit their Union Square office. Some shows are only available online while others are only available at Union Square. Some can be bought either place.

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