By Eimear Quinn, Adventure Co-ordinator of Wilderness Ireland.

1. Question: What are some of the “things” or activities that the people of Connemara do for fun?

Answer:

Hiking the ‘terrible beauty’ (Oscar Wilde) of Connemara.

You can explore some of the best hiking in Connemara – and Ireland! – while immersing yourself in Ireland’s archaeology, geology and natural history. From a tiny shrine in the remote hills of Connemara to the summit of Ireland’s most famous pilgrimage mountain Croagh Patrick, your route will follow in the footsteps of Ireland’s famous patron saint, Saint Patrick.

You can tackle three of the highest mountains in the west of Ireland including Mweelrea, the highest peak in Connacht. At what feels like the edge of the world, breathe in the some of the freshest air in Europe as you take in stunning Atlantic views at every turn. Far from the traditional tourist track, you’ll explore a secret Ireland that few visitors will ever see. Hiking in Connemara and Mayo offers the best way to truly experience the wild landscapes of the west of Ireland.

Exploring the Irish Gaelic language of Connemara by bicycle.

Connemara is one of Ireland’s few remaining strongholds of the Irish Gaelic language and is commonly referred to as the largest Gaeltacht region in Ireland. You’ll know you’ve reached a Gaeltacht region on your travels throughout Éireann (Ireland) when the English translations on road-signs disappear. There have been many attempts throughout the ages to overthrow the Gaelic way of life, but each time, those who came to conquer, from the Vikings to the Viking-Normans, eventually assimilated. Unfortunately, at the turn of the 19th century, the Gaelic language went into rapid decline due to the harsh marginalization of the native Irish people and the state establishment of national schools, which placed emphasis on learning English over Irish Gaelic. After Irish independence, the Irish language has seen a resurgence in schools (it is considered a mandatory subject alongside English) but English is still the principle language.

2. Question: What’s one thing the public probably does NOT know about Connemara?

Answer:

Pilgrimage Sites

The glorious Croagh Patrick, known locally as simply ‘The Reek’, is situated just 5 miles west of Westport in Co. Mayo. This pointed peak has been a location of pilgrimage for many centuries. In recent times, the sacred mountain of Croagh Patrick has been attributed to Ireland’s patron saint, St. Patrick. In a much earlier time than this, the mountain we call Croagh Patrick was originally known as Mons Egli, Croachan Aigli or Cruachan Aigli and is known to have been a highly revered place for the ancient polytheistic people of the country, who made the ascent in the name of the sun god, Crom Cruach. Since the time of St. Patrick when we supposedly made a pilgrimage to the summit to fast and pray, thousands of pilgrims has climbed Croagh Patrick each year. The most important day for these pilgrimages is Reek Sunday, the final Sunday of July.

3. Question: Share some aspect of what Connemara has contributed to the world.

Answer:

Flora & Fauna

In May 2010, Connemara National Park won a ‘Biodiversity Blitz’ wherein a total of 542 species of flora & fauna were recorded in 24hrs. Six wildlife sites across the country took part in a bid to categorize as many species as possible within a day. The following is but a sample of what was recorded: mountain hare, red deer, feral goat, four species of bat, seven species of butterfly, 51 species of macro-moth, 10 species of micro-moth, four species of dragonfly/damselfly, 46 other invertebrate species, 2 amphibian species, 55 bird species, 218 flowering plant species, 83 bryophytes, 17 lichens, 18 liverworts, and 18 algae. Connemara National Park itself encompasses part of the Twelve Bens mountain range, including the well-known Diamond Hill, a popular spot for visitors and locals alike. Your best bet to see the wildlife is by exploring Connemara’s rugged backcountry of the Twelve Bens with a local hiking guide and wildlife expert.

The Connemara Pony

The Connemara Pony is an internationally renowned breed of pony that is uniquely Irish and the largest of all pony breeds. The famously good-natured and tremendously hardworking Connemara Pony descends from the magnificent Andalusian horses of the Spanish Armada – a tragic fleet of 130 ships which fell foul of Ireland’s rough and rugged coastline in 1588 en route to invade England. The liberated team of Andalusian horses ran wild and began to breed with the Scandinavian ponies residing in the mountains of Connemara from the time of the Viking invasions between 800-1169, eventually creating what is known today as the Connemara Pony. The Connemara Pony Breeders Society was founded in Clifden in 1923 to protect and develop the breed – with the Pony becoming an official pedigree in 1926. The ponies can still be found throughout Connemara.

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The only thing better than a great hotel room, is a great hotel room on the beach. And this is why Zachari Dunes on Mandalay Beach is one of my new favorite Southern California destinations. Located steps from the beautiful sand and ocean in Oxnard, California, the resort has everything one could want for a waterfront vacation.

The family and I began a recent two-night stay at Zachari Dunes by experiencing two different rooms. The first night we stayed in a luxurious 2-queen suite, overlooking the water, and the second night we were in a palatial presidential suite.

The 625-sq-ft, 2-queen suite overlooked the ocean and stunning Mandalay Beach. It came with a large entertaining room, featuring a sleeper sofa, comfy chairs, chest of drawers, huge TV, and balcony looking out to the water. This main room also had a wet bar, microwave, refrigerator, table and chairs, and a bathroom with a shower.

In the suite’s separate bedroom, there were two queen beds, a private bathroom with a tub and shower, big closet, another TV, and access to the giant balcony overlooking the blue Pacific Ocean and the Channel Islands in the distance.

Outside the suite, we played on the beach or in the sparkling hotel pool. To get to the beach, we walked out the back gate of the resort, crossed a walking/biking path and stepped on the fluffy white sand of Mandalay Beach. I love this beach because it’s rarely crowded and it is great for sunbathing, building sand castles, and playing in the water with kids.

Another favorite spot was the hotel pool, where we had our own private cabana for a day. Available for rent, the cabanas offer shade, a refrigerator and a couch and chairs. They are a great way to enjoy the pool and the extra large Jacuzzi. While relaxing in the cabana we enjoyed champagne and fresh, local Oxnard strawberries.

After a day at the beach and pool, we enjoyed dinner at Ox & Ocean, the hotel’s signature, gourmet restaurant. Located beside the lobby, the restaurant offers an elegant and eclectic mix of surf and turf dinner options, as well as creative and tasty breakfast and lunch – all in a fun, indoor / outdoor setting.

“Tying into the unique makeup of California, Ox & Ocean serves locally sourced produce and seafood fresh from Oxnard’s plains and sea, celebrating a diverse influence and distinct flavors in an elegant, yet approachable fashion,” reads the hotel website.

Our dinner at Ox & Ocean began with a beet salad, with roasted poblano vinaigrette, avocado puree, goat cheese amaranth and local citrus. This heavenly salad was followed by delicious Oxtail Bao Buns, with hoisin, cilantro, kimchi and kewpie mayo.

Our savory adventure continued with a fresh and spicy Ahi Tuna Crudo, with aji amarillo, yuzu, apple pieces, avocado and radish. One of my favorite dishes on this incredible culinary journey was the Crab Croquettes, with lump crab meat, panko bread crumbs, and sesame chili-garlic dip.

These croquettes alone are worth a drive to Oxnard.

While dining, we sat outside, enjoying a cool ocean breeze and the beautiful Zachari Dunes resort. Featuring Spanish mission-type architecture, the white hotel buildings are highlighted by arches and red tile roofs. The grounds are covered with palm trees, lush vegetation, brooks and ponds, and winding pathways.

The hotel, which became part of the Hilton Curio Collection last year, is one of only two beachfront Hilton branded properties on the Pacific Coast. Besides 250 suites, Zachari Dunes boasts a fitness center, full-service spa, a bar with a game room, tennis and basketball courts, a small convenience store, and a beach gear rental shop with surf boards, paddle boards, hoverboards, skate boards, DSLR cameras, gopro cameras, binoculars, backpacks, wagons, a record player and more.

After dinner we strolled along the beach, as the sun fell behind the rugged outline of the Channel Islands about 20 miles offshore. We then joined other hotel guests for s’mores at the hotel’s giant fire pit.

The next morning I worked out at the fitness center and then it was back to Ox & Ocean for breakfast. And it was another delicious affair, as I devoured Chilaquiles with roasted red pepper salsa, tortilla chips, sunny side egg, queso fresco, pico de gallo, and lime crema.

After breakfast we rented a four-person surrey bike and pedaled along the beach path. We pedaled by the ocean and next to large sand dunes and by a park, where we rested our legs and enjoyed lunch under a shade tree.

Back at the hotel we took advantage of a great perk at the hotel that allows all guests to check out anything in the gear shop for free for two hours. The first day we borrowed a large beach wagon with oversized plastic wheels, to pull the kids and all our stuff across the sand to the water.

Our next adventure at Zachari Dunes was also quite memorable. We checked into a 1,600-sq-ft presidential suite that was fit for a king. The suite, which can easily sleep up to six people, came with two separate bedrooms, with a king bed in one and two queens in the other.

The suite also came with three bathrooms, two balconies overlooking the ocean and the pool, and a giant main living room with fireplace, office desk, wrap-around sofa, dining table, and kitchenette area with microwave, refrigerator, and wet bar. A highlight of the suite was the stand-alone bathtub in the main bedroom that was perfect for bubble baths.

The presidential suite was so great, we didn’t want to go outside. But with a sparkling pool below us and the blue pacific ocean mere steps away, we had to venture out. So on my second day at the hotel, I headed to the gear shop and used my free two-hour rental on a longboard skateboard. Measuring about 48 inches long, the board came with a long paddle-like oar that I used to propel myself along the walking/bike path. Not only was this fun and thrilling, but it was also a great full body workout. I think I have a new sport!

Zachari Dunes on Mandalay Bay is located at 2101 Mandalay Beach Road, Oxnard, California, 93035. For more information and reservations, visit: www.zacharidunes.com or call (805) 984-2500

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Tonight we are in Villafranca having spent three days riding our mountain bikes across the great plains of central-northern Spain. Now we are a day or so into climbing the mountain passes leading to the city of Santiago in Northern Spain. It is early June and the temperature in the town square reads 43 degrees C – nearly 108 deg F. Hot and sunny have been the key words for the last week.

The rental mountain bikes are heavy and the climb days which we are just starting, range from 600- 1500 meters. It certainly is an excellent work-out. Tomorrow will be the longest climb of the trip. In the heat it is difficult to get enough water and fuel for these climbs. Fortunately, there are lots of medieval towns along the way with bars and hostels.

Best town so far – Astorga. Lots to do and we stayed at a great hotel on the town square with wonderful restaurants. Great place to relax with a beer, after the tough hill climbs. After Astorga we traveled through several “semi-abandoned” ancient stone villages. One house in town might have been abandoned and crumbled – maybe even a hundred years ago- while beside that is a restored house with a Mercedes parked outside. That is one of the great things about traveling the Camino – or Pilgrim Way. The route leads right through the heart of all these villages and farms. On many occasions the path crossed a farm between the house and the barn and we had to wait as the farmer’s wife moved the cattle down the road with a hickory stick.

Having spent two days in hectic and crowded Madrid, we appreciated the open spaces and the fact there was no commercialization. This route, from where we started in Burgos, has changed little in the last few hundred years – maybe even a thousand years – who knows. On the Camino, on our bikes, we pass thousands of pilgrims or “Perrigrinos”. The Camino pilgrimage heads west – always west – towards the cathedral in Santiago. As we pass through modern cities like Burgos and Leon, and hundreds of more villages, the “Perrigino Way” is constantly marked with painted yellow arrows, or stone markers, even sea shells embedded in the pavement. It is hard to get lost with this signage and always the pilgrims walking the Camino in one direction. Occasionally we manage to get lost anyways – all part of the fun of the adventure.

No cars and no billboards. What a pleasure.

We passed so many thousands of Perrigrinos. Most walk alone. Some walk 20 K a day, others try to achieve 30 a day. Most talk of resultant leg injuries and foot problems. Some take months to walk hundreds of kilometers. Some do a portion of the route each year. Everyone walks for his or her own reasons. On they plod. We noticed many got up by dawn or earlier to get miles in before the heat of the day. There are lots of towns along the way with stores and bars to feed the Perrigrinos. Every village seems to offer them something. It is all condensed for us on bikes moving quickly, but for the walker, I’m sure the towns and restaurants don’t come often enough.

The Perrigrinos have developed traditions that are interesting. Such as the tradition of carrying a rock all along the route. As if the back packs weren’t heavy enough! This rock represents “their burden” that they carry with them wherever they go. Along the route, near the top of one of the passes is a large iron cross. At the base of this cross tradition says people can cast away their burden (rock). Now after many years, the hill of rocks under the cross has risen over a large area to a hill 20 feet or more in height. Many rocks are painted or written on. It seems to represent a million burdens. What a wonderful tradition.

Every night we worry a bit about what the heat and the hills will bring the next day. Last night we stayed in Molinsaseca just outside of Ponferrada. The elderly Spanish lady who owned the Hostel we stayed in – a pleasantly converted ancient stone barn – took us on a tour through her adjacent house. What a privilege this was. We’d never normally be invited inside a home or villa. Most home exteriors offer little indication of the wealth of the house hidden behind the walls.

Her home was immense and full of beautiful artifacts, antiques and original oil paintings dating back hundreds of years. The dining room was a 100 ft. long converted wine storage vault with a magnificent slate/stone floor. It seemed it could seat a hundred people in comfort for that small family dinner. She’d raised 9 children. One had gone on to become a famous author in Spain. The next days we saw him being interviewed on television.

The hill climbs are challenging for us. Most of us, like myself, try to gasp our way slowly to the top in the lowest gear possible (wishing there were even more gears!). On the ride day to Molinaseca, I spent an hour breathing hard and sweating huge amounts for a climb that offered very few respites. Every turn revealed another rise. I had to mentally convince myself not to stop and walk. Finally the top – no it isn’t! More climbing, ears popping! Eventually we all passed through the stone village at the peak stopped for water and a quick photo of the magnificent views and then the screaming downhill. “I earned this”, I said to myself as the steep road descended and my brakes seemed to be ready to burn. Ooops, more hills. Will the climbing ever end? Yes, finally, the 10 mile descent. No cars on the road. Just the sound of cow bells from way below in the valley. And the wind in your ears.

Finally on the last, “easy” day, we experience a few short but surprisingly tough hills and a wonderful trial ride through eucalyptus glades. At last!  Santiago and the cathedral – in time for the Perrigrino mass at noon.

Later that day there is definitely a feeling of disappointment that the trip is over and done. But imagine how the Perrigrinos must feel after walking for months. They must continue walking for many more months in their dreams!

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