Our umbrellas were out as the full moon struggled to dapple its brilliance through fickle nomadic clouds, casting shadows across walls of brick and stone leaning inward helped by the thrust of time. It was our moment to follow the passageway, comprehending that throughout the ages the uneven cobbled walkway had felt the footsteps of countless travelers, invaders on the prowl their swords at the ready, lover’s hand-in-hand waiting for their moment, and Catalans who were born and raised in the Quarter, nearly all fading into the clutches of time while the stone passageways remain forever. Within minutes the old Gothic Quarter with its eternal sense of place was sending feelings to us by way of voices barely heard.

Walking slowly in the mottled darkness, we came upon a middle-aged classical guitarist sitting cross-legged on the stones, eyes closed, wearing scuffed sandals, and a black-ribboned hat, surrounded by a display of CDs. He was playing delicate heart-warming charts, his right hand agile and melodic. Stopping for a moment we perceived a spine-chilling voice in the distance, two octaves above the guitar passages, a voice that seemed to be floating skyward echoing off the buildings and passageway, for a moment in concert with the nearby bells of the massive Barcelona Cathedral ensconced in place in 1298 when ground was first broken.

We walk a few yards further to discover a small, passionate group of people some holding umbrellas, wedged tightly in a small area just off the passageway amidst unlit buildings, cheering “Brava, brava, brava,” while an exceedingly skilled opera singer, possibly touching her mid 40’s with perfect pitch and no microphone, performed La Traviata, Macbeth, Rossini, and Bellini, in Spanish, Italian, and German. Wearing badly faded ripped jeans, and accompanied only by a young flautist reading from a music stand, she offered her voice as a gift of musical beauty from the heavens.

Occasionally illuminated by threads of moon light and performing the stage choreography she fell hard to her knees on the stones, her dramatic facial expressions enlivening her voice and the opera characters she was performing. This single coloratura soprano with a vocal range and breathing that extended her voice to the sixth octave, and a full, vibrant vibrato echoing through the Quarter, created an astonishing ecstatic moment, sounding like a recording from Barcelona’s Gran Teatro del Liceu, one of the largest opera houses in the world.

An older gentleman with shades of gray hair spontaneously stepped forward from the group of opera aficionados and in the lower register, mid-chart, keeping within the tempo and in Spanish sang a duet with the opera singer. His voice, once grand, is now on pitch but fragile and time has taken its toll. Unfazed, her voice alive and fervent, she carries his passion until he bows and steps back into the shadows. It all felt illusory and imaginary; the Gothic Quarter closed tight around us, the rain tangled amongst the buildings that seemed edgy and wanting, our legs weakened and eyelids frozen, as we watched the small group of listeners, many of whom were familiar with the lyrics, drop coins and bills into a small, crumpled, paper basket placed askew on the stones.

The opera singer faded into the night as did the listeners, some pulled away by restless dogs on a leash. No one spoke to her. It seemed like an abnormal musical vision in the heart of old Barcelona, a momentous spiritual awakening. We walked in silence through the darkened passageway, past the guitarist, who was still in his own world, eyes shut, fingers moving, to our apartment on Carrer Ciutat. The language of opera, an art form as old as the Gothic Quarter joined hands on a rainy, May night in a loving embrace, the singer’s voice lifting the Old Quarter off its Roman foundations, until the ills of the world faded into the mist if only for a moment.

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The attractive Catalan language drifts through Barcelona, an ancient port city built atop Roman ruins with bits and pieces of 4^th century architecture proudly standing tall amidst the mad crush of 21^st century tourism. With its countless tree-lined streets and glorious architecture, Barcelona appears to have been blessed by a goddess from the World of Art who draped her large silk scarf over the city to ensure an artistic bent.

Always an impressive dining city, it boasts an assemblage of 23 Michelin starred restaurants and myriad artistic chefs whose soaring vitality and dedication to a creative culinary experience create traditional Catalan and Mediterranean cuisine with flair.

Executive Chef Jorg Lehmann, working on SeaDream II, a sea-worthy yacht which often calls on Barcelona said, “I admire Catalan cuisine, the city and the chefs. Tapas and small bites have been copied world-wide, Spanish soups are wonderful, as is wine pairing with the cuisine, but I know if service is not up to par it doesn’t matter what the chef is doing in the kitchen.” Frequent dining visits for this feature were unannounced and regardless of award-winning cuisine, we agree with Chef Lehmann that service is a high priority.

Sensi Bistro, tucked away in the Gothic Quarter on Carrer Regomir, a small passageway off Placa De Sant Jaume, is a joyous dining experience where willing Catalans wait patiently outside on Regomir for one of 32 seats in the narrow room with scarcely enough space for the smiling staff to pass between.

Creativity rules here and the menu features Sous Chef, Lionel Goitia, 31, cooking elevated classic tuna tartar tapas, the tastiest seafood paella in Barcelona, and small cubes of roasted potatoes splashed with a spicy Peruvian sauce and a touch of light garlic. Reservations advised.

Orio, located in the Gothic Quarter on lively Carrer Ferran, presents a taste of Basque cuisine with large Basque-style tables and an extended tapas bar showcasing seafood and vegetable pintxos (toothpick tapas) that add to the animated ambience. The tab is cleverly compiled by the number of accumulated toothpicks. If time is short, Orio is nicely located, and an intriguing choice for lunch.

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MariscCO is ensconced in an 1879 building in historic Placa Reial where, in the same year, the great Antoni Gaudi designed the attractive Placa lampposts, now a favorite pigeon post. Near Las Ramblas, MariscCO is encircled by some 15 competing dining choices all with alfresco tables. Greeted by a colorful seafood display, the open kitchen restaurant is decorated with historic black and white photos, including a large print of Dali riding a baby rhinoceros who looks deep in his cups. Chef Victor Izquierdo brings to the table a creamy seafood soup, grilled lobster, king prawns, a goat cheese salad, a platter of grilled farm-fresh vegetables, and a selection of Spanish wines. It is ideal for an early dinner while indulging in the art of people-watching.

7 Portes, one of Pablo Picasso’s favorite Barcelona restaurants, has a designated Picasso table positioned directly by the entrance below an invaluable, signed and framed work of art by Picasso himself. The oldest restaurant in Barcelona, 7 Portes was established in 1836, and has remained open to this day. Spiffy, formally attired servers speak knowledgeably about authentic Catalan cuisine, cold garlic soup, and traditional paellas thoughtfully prepared with fresh fish and seafood and house-made stock.

Overseen by Executive Chef Jaime Perez Sicilia, the menu of grilled beach prawns from Palamos and a wine list with more than 100 selections is something that Hemingway would have perused during his Barcelona visits.  Tourists should wear their finest travel clothes for dinner in this elegant restaurant since the Catalans certainly know how to dress for an evening out.

Black Remedy is a lively welcoming breakfast room and a great way to begin a Barcelona day. Close by if one is booked in a hotel in or near the Gothic quarter, Black Remedy is just steps from Placa De Saint Jaume, on Carrer Ciutat, which is right in the heart of the city, and on the same passageway as Sensi Bistro though the name changes. Catalans dine here en masse, making room for a scattering of visitors. House-made blueberry and mango muffins, avocado toast with feta cheese, and eggs Benedict are created by a formidable cook in an open kitchen with flair. Great for lunch, too, with fresh salads, stir-fried zucchini, specialty coffees, and wine.

Sola, a hidden Barcelona gem that is well known by Catalans who live or work in and near the Gothic Quarter, is found near Sensi Bistro on the identical Regomir passageway. Sola, the current matriarch and namesake of this small, family-owned bakery that has operated in the same location for 100 years, is eager to share an old black and white photo of herself, standing in the bakery as a young girl watching her grandfather and uncle prepare the specialties of the day. The bouquet of freshly baked begets, sweet rolls, cookies, bread, cupcakes and croissants, fills the air and warms the heart. With a smattering of Spanish, ask Sola and she will show off the old baking ovens and tools used by her family throughout the ages.

Chefs Not to be Missed

Executive Chef, Andrea Tumbarello, was born and raised in Sicily, married a striking Spaniard from Madrid, and with immense care and preparation opened Don Giovani on the ground floor of the NH Collection Constanca Hotel in the center of the financial district on Carrer de Constance in 2014. Tumbarello, leaning on his Italian heritage, has developed a following of Catalan diners who allege his masterly Italian cuisine is the charm of Barcelona. Tumbarello works with premium quality truffles and is noted for his linguini al tartufo, burrata pugliese, and spaghetti alla carbonara l’originale, and a menu that evokes memories of Venice, Rome, and Sicily. www.nh-hotels.com

Executive Chef, Marc Gascons, a Michelin Star honoree, and his team create fresh, long-established, and contemporary Catalan dishes at Informal, an admired restaurant in the 28-room Serras Hotel in the Gothic Quarter overlooking Port Vell. Cooking with seasonal and local produce, and merging the finest of Catalan haute gastronomie with refined service and elegantly balanced plates, Gascons has made his mark at Informal which was recognized by CNN in 2016 as “One of the World’s Best New Restaurants.” www.hotel/theserrasbarcelona.com

Catalonia Recommendations

More than twenty additional dining choices were avidly recommended. Here are five of the most repeated suggestions: Viana, Tickets, Vivant, Bambarol, and Somorrostro. For those who take pleasure in inspired cuisine, Barcelona is a winner.

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