Curated by Ed Boitano

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Dear Italian-American:

I am planning my first trip to Italy. I want to see Rome, Florence and Venice. I plan on arriving in Milan. Friends have told me to quickly bail out of Milan and use it as a place to head out to more historic places. Should I ignore the city and go on my way? — Susan of Portland, OR

Dear Susan:

If you are in search of ancient Roman roads and ruins or medieval cobblestone streets, Milan is not the place. As the Italian capital of fashion and commerce, Milan is the city of now. It’s simply fun to just sip a coffee at Piazza del Duomo and watch tall, fashion clad models rushing off to unknown destinations. Yes, Venice is the city of canals, but Milan still has a few at the Navigli District, a canal area that once connected Milan with Lake Maggiore. The innovative system of locks was designed by Leonardo Da Vinci in the late fifteenth century. One of the canals actually stopped directly in front of the Duomo di Milano, the world’s most brilliant cathedral, which took nearly centuries to complete. With 3,400 statues on the façade, plus 700 marble figures and 135 gargoyles, the pink hued Condoglian marbled Duomo holds the record for the most statues in the world. Back to Leonardo, the Renaissance man spent 17-years in Milan, where his fresco of The Last Supper is available for viewing at the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, but make sure to get your tickets in advance.

Climbing up the Duomo di Milano‘s stairs to its terraced rooftop is mandatory; you’ll see spectacular vistas of the city, the Lombardian countryside and the Swiss Alps, plus be surrounded by angels built on buttresses. Also, just a few yards away is La Scala, the world’s greatest opera house. There’s a chance that tickets might be available; but can be expensive and somewhat difficult to procure. For a glimpse of the opera house’s interior, you might consider booking a museum tour, where mine consisted of watching a pre-opera arrangement of lighting in the theatre and a trip to La Scala’s museum. Outside you can walk through the passageway just like Verdi, Toscanini and Maria Callas did when strolling to and from La Scala.

And a sampling of local cuisine will introduce you to new dishes, unique to Lombardy: Costolette di Vittelo (breaded Milanese veal), saffron infused Risotto and Osso buco alla Milanese.

And, Susan, remember Milan embodies la bellafigura: “ Behaving well and looking good doing it.” With me, they apparently made an exception. — The Italian-American 

Dear Italian-American:

I’m not an Italian rookie, seen much of the sites and want more. Scheduled for another jam-packed trip back – with no Covid – this summer. But never seen Bologna or Parma. Which one should I pick? — Stan of Ventura, California

Dear Stan:

A visit to Bologna or Parma qualifies as a win-win solution. Both cities are located in the region of Emilia-Romagna and are relatively close to one another; 54 miles with 38 trains per day. So, if possible, consider revising your packed schedule, and visit both. You’ll thank yourself, but your increasingly larger stomach may not.

Parma is smaller than Bologna, more laid back, almost in a countryside setting. The city is the birthplace of conductor Arturo Toscanini, his home now a museum, and film director Bernardo Bertolucci. I noticed that the T-Boy Society of Film & Music selected his 1970 political drama, The Conformist as his best movie. It is also the birthplace of Parmigiano-Reggiano, which contains only approved ingredients, then aged at least one-year, and Prosciutto di Parma, a licensed cured ham, made only from the hind legs of pigs, and aged during a dry-curing process. Moderna, nestled between Parma and Bologna on the south side of the Po Valley, is famous for its namesake Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.

Bologna is much larger than Parma. It’s a college town, flushed with students, featuring Università di Bologna, the first and oldest university in the world (circa 1158). Bologna is also Italy’s most educated and forward-thinking city, culturally regarded as the nation’s greatest liberal city. Often referred to as the city of learning, exemplified by its status as the world’s first city-state to abolish slavery. Stan, sure you understand when speaking of Italy as a nation, the unification of the city-states didn’t happen until 1840, where Italy is often noted as a young nation and an old country.

And then there’s the food. Bologna has long been considered the gastronomic capital of Italy. On the Bolognese table you might find Mortadella, Tagliatelle (made with eggs) al ragù, Tortellini and Lasagna. You may be surprised to find Lasagna and ragù heavier and more robust than its Italian-American counterparts.

And, Stan, remember that Bologna is called La Grassa (the fat one) for a reason. — The Italian-American

Dear Italian-American:

Often times when eating at Italian restaurants in America, I notice some people twirling spaghetti with a fork into a big spoon. When some see me only using a fork but still twirling, I receive almost an arrogant look. Am I doing it wrong? — Linda of Cleveland

Dear Linda:

On the contrary, you are using proper Italian table etiquette, while the others are not. In Italy using a fork to twirl ribbon or sting pasta in a spoon is just not done. If you do use a spoon in Italy, the arrogant looks might come from the staff or diners, well aware that you might be a clueless North American, devouring pasta incorrectly. I have addressed this question to many friends and restaurant servers in Italy, and the normal reply is, Spoons are for children!

Linda, I completely understand your confusion; for I too have received those somewhat arrogant looks while dining at an Italian-American restaurant. What can we do? Nothing. The fact that we are aware of the proper Italian protocol by not using a spoon should lead to peace of mind. Simply enjoy your meal and ignore those disparaging looks. Meals are for enjoyment, not for confrontations.

I believe the popular 2015 film, Brooklyn, where the Irish immigrant, played by Saoisre Ronan, was given instructions on how to use a spoon when eating pasta, almost created a blueprint for many of us on Italian-American dining.

Buon appetito! — The Italian-American

This installment of our advice column comes to you from T-Boy’s Ringo Boitano, a second-generation Italian-American, whose ancestral home hails from the hills of Genoa in the region of Liguria. As a lifetime consumer of Northern Italian cuisine, i.e., polenta, risotto, pesto, ravioli, focaccia, and with little attention to his waistline, offers important travel advice regarding the Italian cities of Milan, Bologna and Parma; as well as addressing a question about correct Italian table etiquette when eating long strands of ribbon pasta.

Readers, feel free to ask the Italian-American any question of your choice at **@tr**********.com Also, queries about non-Italian destinations or any form of travel welcomed. T-Boy has an illustrious team of writers with an acute understanding of their ancestral homeland. Next up will be Dear Icelandic-American. I’m curious to learn more about the Icelandic tradition of eating starvation foods.

— T-Boy

The post Dear Italian-American: Travel Advice on N Italy appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Like many North Americans I grew-up eating lasagna. I recall how my grandmother, who hailed from Genoa, would explain that lasagna was the name of a pasta, not a dish. Her style of preparing lasagna was to boil the pasta, then layer it with a Tucco sauce (Genoese dialect) and Parmigiano–Reggiano cheese, with no baking in the oven.

Adelina, my nonna. Photo taken in Seattle, Washington. My love of cooking stems from her.
Nonna’s legacy is kept alive as we recreate the many dishes in which she taught us.

A classic Lasagne alla Bolognese is different from the version most commonly prepared in the United States. Instead of thick layers of ricotta and mozzarella cheese, Lasagne alla Bolognese  features delicate layers of fresh pasta (spinach is traditional, but plain fresh egg pasta works fine), coated in a luxurious mix of hearty Ragù alla Bolognese and a creamy besciamella (béchamel). It’s one of the world’s great baked pasta dishes.

Last year I finally made it to Bologna, long considered the gastronomic capital of Italy. For my last meal, it had to be the quintessential Lasagne alla Bolognese. With the rich Ragù alla Bolognese, it was more rustic than I had imagined, but every bite was still a gift from heaven.

Traditional Lasagne alla Bolognese
Yield: 6 servings

For the Lasagne:

• 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 6 large eggs
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

For spinach pasta, use about ¼ pound of fresh spinach per egg/portion. Cook the spinach in boiling water until it is wilted (only a minute or two). Squeeze the spinach dry, then chop as finely as possible. Add it to the flour well with the eggs.

For the Salsa alla Bolognese:

• ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
• ½ cup butter, cubed
• 1 cup onions, chopped small
• ½ cup celery, chopped small
• ¼ cup carrots, chopped small
• ¼ pound pancetta, ground (you can ask your butcher to do this)
• 1 pound veal
• ½ pound ground beef
• 1 pound ground pork
• 1 cup white wine
• ½ cup tomato paste

For the Besciamella:

• 4 tablespoons butter
• 4 tablespoons flour
• 2 cups milk
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 3 tablespoons grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
• Salt

To prepare the Salsa alla Bolognese:

In a large Dutch oven or saucepan, heat the olive oil and butter. Add the onions, celery and carrots and cook until they become very soft and begin to caramelize. In a large bowl, mix together the pancetta, veal, beef and pork. Add the meats to the pan and cook until they begin to brown. Add the wine and continue to cook until most of the liquid is evaporated—it should just be moist around the edges of the meat. Add the tomato paste and stir well. Bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 2 hours.

To prepare the Besciamella:

In a medium saucepan, heat the butter until it has melted. Add the flour and stir until the consistency is smooth. Over medium heat, continue to cook until the mixture turns a light golden brown, about 6-7 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the milk in a separate pan until it is just about to boil. Add the milk to the butter mixture 1 cup at a time, whisking continuously, until it is very smooth and is brought to a boil. Cook the sauce for 30 seconds and then remove it from the heat. Season the besciamella with salt and nutmeg, to taste and set aside until ready to use.

To create the Lasagne:

On a marble or wooden work surface, pile the flour into a mound. Make a well in the center of the mound. In a small bowl, beat the eggs, salt, and olive oil together with a fork until blended, and then pour them in the well. Continue beating the egg mixture with the fork, gradually drawing in flour from the sides of the well until the egg has been absorbed by the flour. If needed, drizzle a small amount of warm water, and continue mixing. Once the dough has formed, clean your hands and the work surface.

Flour the work surface again. Knead the dough: press the heel of one hand deep into the ball, keeping your fingers high, then press down on the dough while pushing it firmly away from you. The dough will stretch and roll under your hand like a large shell. Turn the dough over, then press into the dough, first the knuckles of one hand, than with the other; do this about ten times with the knuckles of each hand. Then repeat the stretching and knuckling process, using more flour if needed to prevent sticking, until the dough is smooth and silky, for about 10 to 20 minutes. Roll the dough into a smooth ball.

Place the dough in a small bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let the dough rest for at least 1 hour at room temperature or up to 1 day in the refrigerator, before rolling and shaping the pasta. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour before rolling and shaping.

Shape the dough into a rough circle. Lightly flour the clean work surface. With a rolling pin, begin rolling the dough as you would a pastry crust, starting in the center and rolling away from you to the outer edge. Turn the dough a quarter-turn, and repeat, working your way around, until the sheet of dough is 1/8 inch thin or less. Scatter a small amount of flour on the dough whenever it starts to stick to the surface or the rolling pin. Italian tradition dictates that the sheet of dough be transparent enough to read text beneath.

Fresh egg pasta cooks in a flash (think: 10 to 15 seconds). As soon as it rises to the surface of the heavily-salted cooking water, it is likely ready. A taste test will show if it is al dente enough.

To assemble the dish: 

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Assemble the Lasagne in a 10-by-20-inch lasagna pan: spread a layer of Bolognese over the bottom and top with a sprinkling of Parmigiano, a layer of pasta, a layer of besciamella, another layer of Bolognese, a sprinkling of Parmigiano and pasta. Repeat until all the ingredients are used up, finishing with a layer of pasta topped with besciamella, Bolognese and Parmigiano.

Bake for 45 minutes, or until the edges are browned and the sauces are bubbling. Allow the Lasagna to stand for 10 minutes before serving. Have leftovers? No problem: the flavors will “get better acquainted.”

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