DAY 3:  Fortified with a most satisfying breakfast I was ready to greet this day with great enthusiasm for what lay ahead on my itinerary.  Stefania Casellini, my guide for part of the day, picked me up at the Hotel Garni Du Lac at precisely 10:00 am.  Anyone who knows me can vouch for the fact that I am extremely punctual, almost to a fault, sometimes arriving an hour before the appointed time.  My theory is I’d rather be early than arrive late with adrenalin coursing through my veins.  I know they secretly make fun of me behind my back but I’ve never missed a curtain, train, plain, bus, etc., so being early has quite a bit of merit.  Ah.  Now back to the subject at hand.  The lovely Stefania whisked me away in her car and we were off to visit the quaint town of Ascona in the district of Locarno where we strolled along the promenade adjacent to beautiful Lake Maggiore.  Along the way, we stopped at one of the charming cafes that dotted the path for a glass of wine.  While enjoying our beverages, I admired the beauty of the surrounding buildings with their warm Mediterranean-style architecture.

As we strolled along, we encountered a vendor from ARO Trend who was selling whimsical sculptures made out of stone and metal.  I did restrain my instinct to buy a piece when I realized I couldn’t even fit a paper napkin in my already jammed suitcase.  Although we were not there at sunset, one could only imagine what a magnificent sight that would be.

Back in the car, we now headed to the hilltop iconic Monte Verità in the town of Ascona, which began as a colony for artists and intellectuals in the early 20th century.   Today, it is a conference center and hotel.  An easy uphill stroll, stops along the winding path included the Tea Garden, Tea Plantation, a Japanese Tea House, and a Zen Garden, a perfect setting for a quiet time to reflect.

Still retaining a somewhat mystical or spiritual presence, the back lawn is the site of “Chiara’s Rainbow,” a path consisting of curving lines that were constructed on the basis of the relationship between people’s physical and mental health.  As I slowly walked the maze, I could feel energy emanating from the earth below, which culminated at the rather large Mandala, said to be the point with the highest electromagnetic radiation representing the dawn of consciousness and purification of the soul.  Although I could not confirm this, I was told that the Locarno region is situated where the Teutonic plates of Europe and Africa meet and is one of the vortex centers in Europe.

Being the gracious hosts that Ascona-Locarno Tourism are, I was treated to a soothing “time-out,” a wonderful break in the packed schedule to enjoy a luscious massage at the gorgeous Termali Salini & Spa.  Upon entering the building, which overlooks Lake Maggiore, one is immediately struck with the relaxing aromas that please your senses.  This unique modern, somewhat abstract structure incorporates the feel of the Ticino river valleys and features alcoves, caves and waterfalls that you can enjoy while feasting your eyes on the vistas that lie before you.  What sets this center of relaxation apart from other spas is that the interior differs in that it is laid out not only horizontally, but also vertically so that you can bathe in cascading waters, which flow from one level to the next.  If you want to get the feel of swimming in an ocean, saltwater pools are outside.  During your stay in Locarno, you must put this oasis of tranquility on your list of places to enjoy.  Like a finely tuned Swiss watch, Lorenza Scamara, the dedicated representative from Ascona-Locarno Tourism who looked after me during my stay, arrived at the precise appointed hour to retrieve a most relaxed me and we were off for yet another delicious dinner where we enjoyed a lively conversation about the day’s events and reviewed the itinerary for the next day.

DAY 4:  Today I would say goodbye to the wonderful staff of Hotel Garni du Lac – a three-star hotel with five-star hospitality.  Lorenza arrived shortly after breakfast and off we went to the 5-Star Hotel Belvedere, reachable by car or by funicular, a much more scenic form of transportation.  We were greeted by Gloria Spagnoli, the hotel’s sales and marketing manager, who gave us a brief tour of the rooms.  I do have to admit that there is a marked difference in the number of stars awarded to a hotel and Hotel Belvedere deserves everyone of those coveted stars.

Director, Michele Rinaldi, who took over hotel operations less than a year ago, joined us for lunch in the hotel’s Restaurant La Fontana.  I asked him what inspired him to take this challenging position and he said, “I’ve been in the hotel business for 30 years and was looking for a new challenge.”  He shared that he would be very measured in making changes before getting to know the staff, adding, ‘With the enormous demands made on one’s time, you have to be passionate and willing to give the long hours required of this work.”

My next adventure was a visit to the Valley Verzasca, part of the Locarno region, which as a reminder is in the Italian-speaking region of Switzerland. The population of less than 4,200 covers eight municipalities – Mergoscia, Vogorno, Corippo, Lavertezzo, Brione, Gerra, Frasco, and Sonogno.  It is framed by the Alps on one side, a lake on the other, and its radiant emerald green river, which adds to the valley’s beauty. The region is home to the Verzasca Valley Dam, also known as the Contra Dam, one of Europe’s tallest – an eye-popping 720-foot soaring structure where only the bravest of the brave bungee jump from the world’s highest fixed bungee-jumping platform.  Certainly add this to your Locarno itinerary as watching someone jump upside down is a heart-thumping visual experience.

Back at the hotel, I took a refreshing shower and dressed for a sumptuous private VIP dinner at Ascona-Locarno Lounge where we had a welcome drink followed by a delicious three-course dinner.  We then strolled over to the Piazza Grande, the awesome outdoor site of the Locarno Film Festival where I had the pleasure of walking the Red Carpet. The film that evening was the international premiere of Ethan Hawke’s “Blaze,” a film based on the life of country musician Blaze Foley, which Hawke co-wrote, starred in and directed.  He was feted with the festival’s 2018 Excellence Award for his film.

DAY 5:  With my trip winding down tomorrow, today was a rather light day.  Ethan Hawke gave a press conference which journalists from around the world attended.  He was quite humble and very open about the personal psychological challenges he faced on his journey to success.  He talked about his confidence as an actor and how it was somewhat tied to a director’s view of him.  If a director believes in him, “I become the best version of myself,” and conversely if he doesn’t get that from a direction, “I become less than whom I can be.”*  The rest of the day was a relaxing stroll around town, shooting photos, and enjoying another delicious dinner and lively conversation with wonderful Lorenza.  After dinner it was back to the Belvedere to pack for my departure 5:00 am the next morning.  Although we didn’t have time to explore the neighboring Lugano or Bellinzona, the capital of Ticino, I would definitely put that on your list when you book your trip.

DAY 6:  As I mentioned in Part 1 of this feature on Locarno, I found taking three trains with my luggage, carry-on, and a purse just a bit too much to navigate.  Also, anyone who knows me knows that I have a definite deficit when it comes to a sense of direction and indeed, usually go in the opposite direction of where I need to be.  So, I didn’t want to face the same challenge that I had on arrival in Zurich, which was taking an elevator and traversing flights of stairs to find the next two tracks.  To alleviate my anticipated stress, I made arrangements with a lovely young woman to accompany me back to Zurich where she deposited me safely at the check-in counter of American Airlines.  It was worth the extra expense to end my delightful Locarno adventures with a most pleasant, stress-free train ride.

Just a reminder, I strongly urge you to avoid the Philadelphia airport as your first port of entry.  After I retrieved my luggage and went through customs, I found there is no conveyer belt to recheck the luggage to my connecting flight to LAX.  I had to walk to three terminals away which was difficult.  I will never forget the image of this Indian family – husband, wife and three children – all schlepping luggage – and searching for the connecting terminal.  A nightmare, so avoid it at all costs.  The unpleasant re-entry into the U.S. did not in any way alter my very special Ascona–Locarno experience and the gracious manner in which I was treated.  The region is aptly referred to as “The Mediterranean Soul of Switzerland” and, indeed, it truly is.

*Stay tuned for more details of that interview.

Refresh your memory regarding the material covered in Part 1

Grotto della Fontana
Via Madonna della Fontana
Ascona, Switzerland 6612
Phone: +41 91 791 12 09

Termali Salini & Spa
Via G. Respini 7, L
Locarno 6600, Switzerland
Phone: +41 91 786 96 96

Hotel Belvedere
Via ai Monti della Trinità 4
CH-6600 Locarno, Switzerland
Phone: +41 91 751 03 63; Fax: +41 91 751 52

Verzasca Dam
‪Diga della Verzasca
6632 Vogorno, Switzerland
Phone: +41 91 780 78 00

Lake Maggiore

Ascona-Locarno Tourism

The post Part 2: Locarno, Switzerland – Hidden Gem With Endless Hours of Sunshine appeared first on Traveling Archive.

For some inexplicable reason, when I shared with friends and family that I was going on an exclusive press trip to Locarno, Switzerland to cover the film festival and the region in general, none of them had heard of this utterly charming Italian-speaking resort located on the northern shore of Lake Maggiore, nestled at the foot of the Alps.  A hidden gem, Locarno is in the Ticino Canton, the Italian-speaking region of Switzerland, and is famous for its sunny climate.  Although its architecture, cuisine, and culture are quite similar to its neighboring Italy, Swiss-Italians are clear in their distinction between Italy Italians vs. the Italian speaking Swiss, and all that implies.  Other languages spoken in the region include German, French, and just a smattering of English.  Now, back to the beginning of the journey.

My flight began at LAX with a connecting flight in Philadelphia* to Zurich.  All went smoothly until I landed in Zurich at which time I went through customs, retrieved my luggage and then had to figure out how to get to the train station, which became a challenge.  I had one large, and I have to admit heavy suitcase, and a small carry on.  I looked at all the signs and frankly became confused as how to find my way to catch the first of three trains.  I finally found a porter and paid him to take me to the train station, which, although connected to the airlines terminal, does take some familiarity with the layout. At last, after what seemed like a circuitous route, he led me to the platform to await the arrival of the first train.  I found a bench and was prepared to sit for over an hour, but a very kind young lady sitting next to me pointed out that I could take the next train, and make the other two connections earlier.  I took her advice and, after changing trains three times, arrived in beautiful Locarno much earlier than anticipated.

Armed with a map provided by Ascona-Locarno tourism, who were kind enough to host me, following a five-minute walk from the train station, I arrived at the 3-star Hotel Garni du Lac.  The service and hospitality at the hotel was right up there with a 5-star hotel and although the folks at reception spoke very little English, we somehow communicated. I would suggest as a courtesy that you learn a few basic Italian phrases.  A lovely buffet breakfast was offered daily and you could either sit inside the cheerful dining room or on the outside patio and gaze at the luscious scenery before you. The hotel is centrally located for easy access to the Piazza Grande where most of the 293 films are shown on the largest outdoor screen in Europe.   That kind of falls under “good news” “bad news” as it appears that the screenings take place in what could be loosely described as the rainy season with very brief periods of torrential rain almost every night.  Many of the festival attendees came prepared with slickers and umbrellas and most either sat through the pouring rain or took shelter in the arcade until the rain stopped.  Nothing was going to prevent this enthusiastic group of movie lovers from seeing the films.

My wonderful host for this trip was Lorenza Scamara who would be my primary guide for the next week.  She met me at the hotel at the exact time we had agreed upon and escorted me to the festival registration desk where I secured my press badge, followed by dinner at a local restaurant.  Smoking is not allowed inside restaurants but smokers can puff away on the patios, which prevented me from enjoying outdoor dining most of the time.

Regarding the cuisine, local chefs have achieved success by re-interpreting the regional cooking of Lombardy. More than 15 of the region’s restaurants boast Michelin stars or Gault-Millau ratings, and over 20 are listed in premier gastronomic guides.  Americans are accustomed to tipping so it should be noted that a service charge is included in restaurant and hotel bills, as well as taxi fares.  An additional tip is not expected, but is appreciated for good service.  Something interesting is when I asked about an outstanding Italian restaurant, I was told there are no Italian restaurants in Locarno despite the fact that just about every restaurant I saw had an Italian name.  I think the phrase must imply something that has to do with its neighboring Italy, but clearly it meant something very different from our version of an Italian restaurant.

Over dinner, Lorenza and I discussed some Locarno factoids.  The city has a population of around 15,000 people, and with the warmest, sunniest climate in Switzerland, tourism is one of its biggest industries. Toward that end, there is free public transportation and reduced fares are offered for cable cars, ferryboats, and numerous tourist attractions. All guests staying at least one night in a hotel, hostel, or campsite receive a free Ticino Ticket, which cannot be purchased separately and is valid until midnight on the day of departure.  For art lovers, the region boasts 22 museums, seven theatres, and over 40 art galleries. The Ascona-Locarno Cultural Pass allows reduced admission to participating institutions.  You pay full price for the first ticket with a 20% discount on additional tickets.   With tourism being the major industry, a number of hotels and restaurants close at the end of summer and reopen in the spring.

Now, anyone who knows me is aware that I have a zero sense of direction and in fact I’ve figured out that I’m wired backwards because if where I should go is right, I generally will go left.  Sharing this information with Lorenza caused her to be hesitant to leave my side, but after a few times, I actually found my way back to the hotel from the Piazza Grande, which was a straight walk through the arcade, where all the shops were decorated with the vibrant yellow and black color scheme of the 72^nd Locarno Film Festival. With an estimated 8,000 attendees, during the festival the Piazza Grande is transformed into what is said to be the most famous town square in Switzerland and the site of the largest open-air cinema in the world.  In between the festival, every Thursday the square transforms into a Farmer’s Market and becomes a hub for commercial and cultural activities. The oldest historic building in the city is the 14^th century Casa del Negromante, which is now a bar and restaurant and is very popular with locals.

That evening Lorenza and I found seats and were looking forward to the world premiere screening of Spike Lee’s “BlacKkKlansman.” But alas, the skies opened up and there was a torrential downpour.  Many people were prepared with slickers and umbrellas but I was not, so sadly I did not see the film.  But don’t despair, on my way back from Switzerland, I stopped in New York to celebrate my birthday with family and friends and did see the film, which I absolutely loved.  By this time, it was almost 11:00 pm and since I had been up for over 24 hours, it was time to call it a night.

Regarding the screenings, I should point out that I was unaware that there are indoor theatres to accommodate attendees in case of rain so I’m sad to say that I missed most screenings which included films directed by Ethan Hawke, Jane Campion, Kent Jones, Aneesh Chaganty, Cristina Gallego, Ciro Guerra, Hong Sangsoo, Vianney Lebasque, Yolande Zauberman, Antoine Fuqua’s upcoming sequel “The Equalizer 2″, along with the second season of Bruno Dumont’s series “Coincoin and the Extra Humans.”

Day 2:

Following a welcome night’s rest and a satisfying buffet breakfast, Lorenza met me in the lobby of the hotel and we were off to explore the 15^th century Santuario della Madonna del Sasso perched high on a hill overlooking Locarno. This cultural center combines art, architecture, history, and spirituality. For centuries pilgrims have made their way to this holy mountain, where the Virgin Mary is reported to have miraculously appeared in 1480.   Casa del Padre is an onsite museum housed in the Capuchin Convent.  We took a beautiful uphill stroll on the path towards Orselina and paused every once in while to take in the beauty of the grounds.  Access to this art-filled holy pilgrimage is by a fun scenic ride up by funicular railway.   I should like to point out how warm and friendly the people are in this region and men actually offer women their seats. While waiting for the funicular, I spotted a woman dressed with the colors of the rainbow.  I told her how striking she looked and asked if I could take her picture and she graciously said yes.  Bearing in mind the thousands of people at the Film Festival, there she was that evening and greeted me with a big smile and invited me to sit with her family.

Our next adventure was off to explore Cardada-Cimetta, the mountain above Locarno, which you reach by taking a cable car from Orselina to Cardada followed by a chairlift, which takes you up to Cimetta.  The summit offers a spectacular 360-degree panorama view of both one of the lowest points in Switzerland – Lake Maggiore – to the highest point – Dufour peak in Monte Rosa, as well as some of the bucolic surrounding towns.  This tranquil setting was perfect for a stroll through the shaded woods where we saw small children at play in the Indian village.  A sprinkling of lodges and restaurants are available where you can enjoy a typical local dish.  The cable car and chairlift of are open from March 5th until October 28th so I would encourage you to start planning next year’s trip now.

Retracing our steps, we headed for lunch at Restaurant La Fiorentina and dined on paccheri freschi con pomodoro e mozzarella Ticinese.  I’m sure you figured out that it’s a type of pasta with sauce topped with Ticino mozzarella. Following lunch we headed back to the Piazza Grande area to hear a speech from Kate Gilmore, Deputy High Commissioner for Human Rights of the United Nations.  Her topic was the decline of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and sadly the take away was the dire condition of these rights for people around the globe.  Although she didn’t mention America by name, she specifically cited Muslims and Latinos as targeted groups, clearly alluding to the current administration’s draconian immigration policies.

This fabulous day of getting to know the region was coming to an end and following yet another delicious dinner and another aborted attempt to see a film, I headed back to the hotel.

Stay tuned for Days 3-5… where I will share some of the other intriguing aspects of this most beautiful, friendly, sunny resort.

*On your return to the U.S., I would strongly advise you to avoid the Philadelphia airport as your first “port of entry.” It’s a traveler’s nightmare as there’s no conveyer belt to recheck your luggage after going through Customs and my connecting flight to LAX was two terminals away.  Passenger confusion was palpable.

Hotel Garni Du Lac
Via Ramogna 3
CH 6600 Locarno Ticino
+41 91 751 29 21
+41 91 751 60 71


in**@du************.ch

Via Santuario 2
6644 Orselina
Switzerland


in**@ca*****.ch












www.cardada.ch
+41 91 735 30 30

Ascona-Locarno Tourism
+41 (0)848 091 091


in**@as************.com

The post Locarno, Switzerland – A Secret Hidden Gem with Endless Hours of Sunshine appeared first on Traveling Archive.