The drive in from the Falls is along the beautiful Niagara Parkway. Winston Churchill described the Parkway as “the prettiest Sunday afternoon drive in the world”. He was in town in 1943 after attending the Quebec Conference when the Allies were planning the D-Day landings in France almost exactly 75 years ago!  The Parkway winds along the edge of the Niagara River and forms a welcoming tree-lined entrance to one of the prettiest small towns in all of Canada. On the way you pass the famous monument at Queenston Heights that honours the death of our first national hero, Sir Isaac Brock.  The general who helped save Upper Canada in the early days of the War of 1812 but died on this hill in October 1812 during the Battle of Queenston Heights.

One of the biggest attracters for our nearly 3 million tourists to this small town of just 18,000, are its wineries. Niagara-on-the-Lake has become famous for the wines from its 40 local wineries. Many have excellent restaurants where they pair their fine wines with regional cuisine. The unique climate of the Niagara Region lends itself to winemaking and it is surprising that it is on the same latitude as southern France. The Niagara region is an area which benefits from a unique and moderate micro-climate and mineral-rich soils, making for successful world-class vintages.

This is my hometown. As a way of giving back over the past few years, I have joined a number of town committees as a volunteer. One was the committee that won many National and International awards for the town in a worldwide municipal contest. The Communities in Bloom award in 2017 was on the international stage and Niagara-on-the-Lake won the prestigious gold award over towns its size in the U.S., Ireland, Croatia and many other countries. The Communities in Bloom program is so much more than flowers. Each competing community is judged on greening through environmental, as well as natural heritage conservation and horticultural actions by citizens and municipalities.  The wonderful flower displays, and the magnificent hanging baskets downtown draw the attention and admiration of millions of visitors in the spring and summer.

In Niagara-on-the-Lake, I love saying that “history walks beside you”. This was one of the first towns settled in Ontario and was declared the capital of Upper Canada in 1792. It was first settled by United Empire Loyalists. People who were loyal to the British crown and who fled the US after the American revolution. In fact, the US border is nearby, just offshore in the middle of the Niagara River. This historic town boasts a number of National Historic sites and wonderfully restored homes in old town.

It’s hard to understand the deep heritage of this town without knowing how it suffered during the War of 1812. The US declared war on Britain in June of 1812 and prepared to attack its closest colony, Canada. The first major attack was at Queenston Heights, but the British were victorious despite the death of General Brock.  By 1813 the Americans forces were better trained and attacked Niagara in what is known as the Battle of Fort George. They were successful with overwhelming forces and the town was then occupied by the American militia for over 6 months. After the American occupation of Niagara, desertion and disease had reduced the American soldiers’ numbers and by December 1813 they decided to withdraw from Canada to Fort Niagara across the river. But before they left, they (and some Canadian traitors) burned and destroyed the whole town during a winter snowstorm. Virtually every home was put to the torch before being reclaimed by the British. In anger, the British troops retaliated and within 3 months had burned the towns of Lewiston and Buffalo across the river in New York State thus laying waste to the whole Niagara Peninsula.

In the years after the war, the town was rebuilt in that beautiful Regency/Neo-Classic style… also known in the US as Federalist. These magnificent 200-year-old homes still stand in all their restored beauty in the quiet tree lined streets of old town today. Niagara-on-the-Lake became one of the first towns in Ontario to have a recognized National Historic District and the old town district offers the largest inventory of heritage buildings in Canada constructed between 1817 and 1850.

Niagara-on-the-Lake has a lot of natural beauty because it is surrounded on one side by Lake Ontario, with its many moods, and on the other by the mighty Niagara River. The beautiful water views add so much to the charm of our town and help attract nearly 3 million people during tourist season. Many flock to our shoreline and the views of Toronto 32 miles across the lake.

Another interesting fact about Niagara-on-the-Lake is that it is the point for marathon swimmers to start when swimming across the lake to Toronto. In the early 1950s, marathon swimming was a very popular sport. One of the best of the marathoners was young Marilyn Bell and in 1954 she became the first to swim the lake from Niagara to the Toronto shoreline at the age of only 16. It took her 24 hours and captured the imagination of all Canadians.  It seems every year more swimmers attempt this grueling 32-mile swim route. There is a plaque in Queens Royal Park honoring these successful swimmers and I’m proud to say my son’s name is on the plaque. I accompanied him (in the luxury of a boat) on his successful 19-hour swim in 2008.

There are seven National Historic sites in our small town protected and maintained by Parks Canada. The most popular with visitors is Fort George. The fort was built around 1800 but was destroyed during the War of 1812. In May of 1813 it was attacked and burned by the Americans. Following the attack and the destruction by “hot shot’ from cannons at Fort Niagara, the town was occupied by American forces. Fort George was carefully restored in the 1930’s based on accurate drawings that still existed in England.  Today it welcomes as many as 100,000 visitors from all over the world and costumed interpreters teach tourists and students alike about the impact of the War of 1812. Our nearby houses shudder with the sounds of cannon fire during reenactments in the summer.

Culture, along with heritage, thrive in this town. For instance, the successful Shaw Festival theater started in the 1960’s and now the Shaw is considered a world class theater destination. In the past 50 years, this theater that has brought with it a cultural rebirth to the town.  Now, along with the Shaw we have a number of summer music festivals, including classical music presented by Music Niagara and the annual Jazz Festival which brings music to town parks and wineries.

Niagara-on-the-Lake is a “must visit,” and a wonderful gem on the shores of Lake Ontario.

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Winterlude – Ottawa, Ontario

Every February, Ottawa, Canada’s capital city, is host to Winterlude; three weekends of excitement and activity that celebrates Canada’s winter climate and culture. The festival includes ice skating, culture and live music shows along Rideau Canal Skateway; spectacular ice sculptures competition at Confederation Park; and activities for children, skating, ice mazes, ingenious ice slides, food, music and games at Jacques-Cartier Park.

Where does Winterlude take place?

Winterlude is known as one of the biggest and most popular winter events in Canada. The festival that started in 1979 attracts, every year, thousands of tourists from Canada and USA. Due to the numerous visitors during the festival days and the high demand for accommodations it is recommended to check hotel rates and book rooms well in advance. Most Winterlude activities are free of charge, but registration and admission fees may apply to certain events. See the festival’s program, venue, lineup information show time / schedule of events, how to get, parking, etc. here.

Winterlude starts off on January 31 to February 17, 2020.

For me, a highlight is when the frozen 4.8-mile-long Rideau Canal is transformed into the world’s longest skating rink. Located in the heart of Ottawa, between Parliament Hill and the Fairmont Château Laurier, seeing business people skating to work with backpacks and briefcases in hand is a sight that I will never forget. And I know that children on skates will never forget seeing a clumsy, terrified journalist trying to negotiate the ice.

Signature Winterlude Snack: BeaverTails are named after the shape of one of Canada’s national symbols – the beaver. Made with fried whole wheat pastry, then tossed in a bowl of cinnamon and sugar, they are a popular treat when taking a break at one of the booths along the Rideau Canal. They can also be made with toppings of garlic, cheese, jam or chocolate sauce.

About Ottawa

Situated on the border of the provinces of Ontario and Québec in central Canada, the Ottawa area is one of Canada’s most bilingual places with nearly half a million people speaking both English and French. As Canada’s capital, it boasts endless tourist attractions and rates a visit regardless of the season. Your tour should begin with a trip to the observation deck of the Peace Tower on Parliament Hill, which offers sweeping views of this world-class city. If you’re lucky, you may watch the proceedings of the Senate or House of Commons from the public galleries. Other attractions include vibrant neighborhoods, the Canadian Museum of Civilization, the National Gallery of Canada and the Canadian War Museum, which shows Canada’s history of war from the perspective of an average person.

Where to Stay: Fairmont Château Laurier

When in Ottawa, why not go the distance and stay in the legendary Fairmont Château Laurier. This palatial limestone structure with turrets is modeled after a French château and is located in the heart of the city, across the river from the Parliament Buildings. It makes a great place for warming après-snow enjoyment after a day in the cold.

Carnaval de Québec – Québec City, Québec

Nestled on the banks of Old Québec City, Carnaval de Québec is the biggest winter carnival in the world. Sixty-five years of history is reflected in this two-week festival that includes snow sculptures, Ice Tower, night parades, concerts, ice fishing, skating and other activities based on Québecois folkloric traditions.

When does Carnaval de Québec take place?

The Royal Court, the centerpiece of the reimagined festivities, offers a treasure trove of experiences for all age groups. Meet Bonhomme inside his very own Loto-Québec Royal Court! With bountiful lights, interaction, games and wonders, the Royal Court is bound to delight your every sense. The western-themed Tailgate and its country music, is the best way to kick off a day of canoe racing. You’ll hear the athletes yell as they brave the ice and reach for the buoy that hangs from the ferry itself. See the festival’s program, venue, lineup information show time / schedule of events, how to get, parking, etc. here.

Carnaval’s 2020 events commence February 7 – 16, 2020.

What’s New

The post-rigodon Lower-Canadian band Alaclair Ensemble and the rising stars of Quebec rap, FouKi and QuietMike, join forces to light up the stage of Bonhomme’s Ice Palace at the Loto-Québec Zone for one crazy festive evening.  The Christie North Slope, a brand-new snow sliding site, features a dizzying slide: the Christie Descent. This 300-foot long incline launches from a pad built right on Grande Allée street. Come encourage dozens of fearless athletes and witness their spectacular performances!

Located just a short drive out of the city (10 minutes) is the Hôtel de Glace, the only ice hotel in the Americas. Entirely made out of snow and ice, this magical man-made palace features rooms and suites, exteriors spas and sauna, a bar, a café, an exhibition room, a chapel for weddings and an ice slide. Guided daily tours are also available.

Signature Carnaval Snack: Maple Taffy (“tire d’erable”) is made by pouring hot, thick maple syrup onto a board of fresh snow. When it begins to harden, you grab a popsicle stick and pick up the taffy in a rolling motion, wrapping it around the stick. Maple syrup is a staple of Québecois cuisine, reflecting the natural taste of the countryside, where “sugar shacks” in maple groves are used to boil maple.

About Québec City

Québec City was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985 and is the only walled city in North America. The best way to explore this historic city is to stroll its narrow, cobblestone streets lined with stone houses, cathedrals and cafes. The city itself is nothing less than a living museum. Québec City has embraced its history, which is reflected with more than 32 museums, exhibition halls and interpretation centers. Pedestrian streets are populated with local artisans and musicians in this city were 95% of the residents are French-speaking. A quick journey down the funicular leads you to Lower Québec, the birthplace of the city. A ferry ride on the St. Lawrence River is mandatory for stunning photo opportunities.

Where to Stay: Fairmont Le Château Frontenac

Towering over the St. Lawrence River, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac is more than a hotel – it is quite literally the symbol of Old Québec. The castle-like property, with its majestic towers and turrets, evokes an era of time-gone-by, yet still serves as a center for what is Québec today. With the boardwalk to its front and the city to its rear, it offers easy walking access to Carnaval de Québec and Québec City’s countless attractions.

How to Make it Happen: VIA Rail Canada

Let’s see, two winter festivals in two different cities, two weekends and five mid-week days in between. Well, here’s how I did it: Fly Air Canada to Ottawa, on a Friday for Winterlude’s opening ceremonies. Then, on Wednesday hop aboard VIA Rail Canada for an eight-hour train trip to Québec City. You’ll discover, as I did, that this is more than a mode of transportation for Via Rail is an experience unto itself. Between cities, you’ll watch the Province of Québec’s snowy scenery roll past your window and discover the rich land that drew the first settlers there. VIA Rail’s first-class service offers plush seats, regional cuisine and an attentive staff who never seems too busy to answer questions about your journey. Make sure you order a Caesar, Canada’s answer to the Bloody Mary. On your journey, there’s also a short stopover in the main Montreal train station, which will allow you time for a self-guided madcap A Hard Day’s Night-style one-hour tour of this premier city. You will arrive in Québec City in the evening for Carnaval de Québec, then fly back at your convenience after your stay.

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