lacier
Peak is ruining my climbing resume. I wish to kick the arse
end of it, but its wily resistance has wrecked my passage to
its lofty apex three years in a row now. I have climbed many
+10,000 foot peaks, almost all of them on my first attempt,
but this 10,541 foot holdout is solidifying a certain bitterness
within me that will ultimately lead to success, for sure. That's
how I look at it anyway; the mountain may have other plans.
Glacier Peak is just one of a number of completely awe-inspiring
summits in north central Washington State that lie within the
boundaries of the epic North Cascades National Park. The North
Cascades range is a climber's paradise, and provides staggering
views of truly amazing peaks and assorted mountain wildness.
From time to time, locally, here in Seattle, you'll see a license
plate holder that declares, "Washington
America's
Switzerland." When you drive up into the North Cascades,
you see why the people here would make such a claim. Astounding.
Epic. Unforgettable.
Now you've probably at least once been in a designated wilderness
area before. If you have, you know that they're always in remote
locations. Not only is Glacier Peak Wilderness remote, but it
is vast, which puts the closest active trailhead over 15 miles
from the summit. Ouch. For the climber, this equates to at least
30 miles of hiking roundtrip. Only the fittest of mountaineers
can do this trip in two or three days, so most of us are probably
looking at three to five days. I, being the accomplished mountain
climber that I fancy myself to be, decided I could do it in
two to three days, because I am, of course, completely hardcore
and fail at nothing. (If you can't remember how that panned
out, just read first two sentences of this article one more
time.)
I've always had my eye on Glacier Peak. It just
sounds cool. Glacier laden valleys fiercely guarding an ice
rimed, wind swept cap, a challenge for all seasons. Heck yes.
Before I had moved from the northwest to California, it was
one of the few northwest peaks I had desired to climb but hadn't
gotten to. When I moved back six years later in 2005, it was
pretty much Job #1 on my mountaineering list, so I did a bit
of internet research and headed up there. The last successful
climb I had seen posted had been from a couple of years previous,
but this was only mildly puzzling. I figured that this fact
meant good things for me since there were probably very, very
few people climbing it year to year, and I like being alone
on a mountain. When I got to the ranger station in Darrington,
a map displayed prominently on their cork board outside the
building declared only bad news. The rangers had painted a red
line around a full three quarters of the whole mountain, denoting
no access. Much to my surprise, I found out that spring flooding
in 2003 had wiped out almost every road approach, many trailheads,
and large sections of individual trails. I hadn't heard a thing
about it. Over ten inches of rain had fallen in October of that
year, and the resulting deluge caused Glacier Peak to shed itself
of most of its paved approaches, bridges, trails, and campsites,
and in so doing, made itself effectively inaccessible. So bad
was the devastation, a ranger informed me that the Forest Service,
a full two years later, still had almost a dozen vehicles trapped
up in the mountains beyond the washed out bridges and roads.
She stated that the only way to retrieve them would be by helicopter,
which meant they would probably stay until The Rebuilding, as
that recovery option was way too expensive. She also had no
guess as to when the infrastructure would be repaired. Looking
on the map, I found that the nearest available approach would
be a full (35 mile) roundtrip slog from an exotic southeasterly
approach. I was not mentally prepared for that, and also didn't
have the time on that particular trip. Instead, to console myself,
I drove into Canada for the afternoon, and ate like five donuts
at a Tim Horton's, which almost fully assuaging my fluttering
pangs of disappointment.
Glacier Peak Wilderness flowers
|
In 2006, a particularly brutal work regimen
kept me postponing the climb until late September. The weather
had been remarkable each weekend, so I was greatly anticipating
my attempt. When I finally had a free weekend, the weather turned
sour the very Friday morning I was to leave. Clouds descended
from the heavens, and from then on for the rest of that year
the mountain was entombed in snow and ice.
Aha! So here we are in 2007, when my climb would
certainly be an inevitable success. In August, I took five days
off and planned three for the climb attempt. Leaving from Seattle,
it was about a two hour drive to the trailhead, the last ten
miles of which was very decent Forest Service dirt road. Thankfully,
the last five miles of this road had just opened up from the
2003 flooding event the previous week. As is somehow my custom,
I arrived at the North Fork Sauk trailhead in mid-afternoon,
around three o'clock. There were about ten cars there. Thankfully,
late as I was, as soon as I pulled into my parking space, I
saw a couple straddled with huge backpacks that were just heading
out toward the trailhead, which made me feel a bit better.
As I stepped outside of my vehicle and attempted to tie up all
the loose ends of packing so I could get on the trail, I was
assailed by black flies galore, and mosquitoes. I had already
mentally prepared for this, as I remember a friend telling of
a week long hike in Montana's Glacier Park that had almost driven
him to a small nervous breakdown because of the relentless swarms
of biting insects that assailed him every moment of every day.
I knew the North Cascades would be the same type of environment.
Sure enough, there they were, hordes of determined black flies
with no other objective in life but to land on you in some exotic
spot, dig down under your skin and feast on your blood, willing
to risk their lives to accomplish the task. There were no slackers
in the bunch, no half-hearted souls
every last one would
risk their lives and battle to the very end. Adding to the arm
flailing swat fest were the mosquitoes, which specialized in
filling the very small vacant niche the black flies couldn't
cover. Crafty choosers those mosquitoes
biting you through
your clothes on your shoulders and neck, through your socks
I spent just about as much time swatting the whole cast
of these sinister fanged creatures away from me as I did with
my preparations for gathering up my things and leaving my vehicle.
Finally freed from what was only the very beginning of this
torture, I filled out the climbers log and got on the trail.
It was about five miles of a hike to Mackinaw Shelter along
the North Sauk Fork Trail, and along the way, me and the two
hikers I had seen leaving the trailhead on my arrival played
a game of leapfrog, over and over again. Conversing on each
passing, I found out they were from Fresno, pursuing a northwest
vacation, and said they thought they might try for the summit,
although they weren't sure. Once when I passed them, I observed
the girl eating something from the bushes on the side of the
trail. I asked her what she was doing and she showed me what
a huckleberry looked like. Somehow, I had never seen one of
these before in the wild, but ate plenty throughout the trip.
Of course, every time I would stop to do this, the bugs would
find me and drive me into deep humility as I responded to them
with my Tourettes-inspired verbalizations and ducking and swatting
dances.
Arriving at the Mackinaw Shelter, a dirty little woodpile of
a mountain shack five miles from the parking lot, the trail
took a sinister turn. Vertically. For a number of miles after
the shelter I found the steepest trail terrain I'd ever personally
hiked. The only thing that I could have compared it to, oddly
enough, would be the southern approach to Mt. Baldy in Southern
California. Leg shatteringly steep. Even so, I was rewarded
with views of some of the best of alpine meadows, fully in bloom,
that I can ever remember seeing in the wilds. Somewhere around
the third mile of this, it started getting dark, and a couple
of headlights came bobbing down the trail. It turned out to
be two very stoked twenty-something hikers who had made the
summit earlier that day and were determined to get down to the
trailhead. They were really cool and so amped up I was sure
they would actually make it all the way out that night, even
though I knew for certain they had already done some horrible
muscle ravaging work to get to the summit and then all the way
down to this point, which was still a full eight miles from
their final destination. I was encouraged to hear that someone
had summitted, which virtually guaranteed my success, I reasoned
If these kids could do it, I would ultimately kick their
behinds, if in the final analysis our trips could somehow be
compared.
A view of Glacier Peak from the south
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Much of my concern on this trip was to whether
or not I needed crampons. I thought about that a lot, both before
and during the trip. Crampons are dang heavy, so you mentally
weigh very carefully before a trip whether you need them or
not. If you bring them and don't need them, it makes you angry
to think about having carried them the whole way for nothing.
Aggravating. On the other hand, if you encounter a steep field
of snow and ice in the last 200 feet to the summit and don't
have them, you're risking your life to press on without them.
I asked the young fresh fellows whether they had brought any
or not, and these dang kids said no, they didn't bring them
and hadn't needed them. They said they saw some other climbers
using them close to the summit though. (Undoubtedly, all these
climbers were 36 years old, I internally reckoned.) At this
moment, I could feel the extra weight of the crampons in my
backpack slowly sinking my ankles into the soil of the trail
I was standing on. I nearly had to adjust my stance to avoid
sinking straight to the center of the earth. Aaargh. Anyway,
those cool kids were off and I was all the better for having
bumped into them, and vastly encouraged about my chances of
making the summit. With one of them throwing a determined fist
toward the sky, they departed with an enthusiastic, single-word
battle cry: "Denny's!"
About the time I hooked up with the Pacific Crest Trail it got
completely dark. I adjusted my headlight for maximum output
and plodded up the still very steep section of trail for another
hour and a half to Red Pass, which exists on the jagged crux
of a knife edged ridge, far above the tree line. Once there,
the first thing that caught my eye was the carved wooden sign
that declared Red Pass off limits to campers. Whoever makes
the decisions at the Forest Service concerning these types of
things is obviously clinically insane. This guy has never been
out of the office in his life. Every time you get to a place
you want to camp in a wilderness area, virtually on the verge
of physical collapse, there is always just such a sign staring
back at you, strategically placed so it can glare back down
at you right at the spot where you strike your tent.
Pulling the sign up from the small rock pile it was weakly sticking
out of, and placing it face down on the ground in front of me,
I surveyed the grand view into the eastern valley that opened
up before me. I still couldn't see Glacier Peak itself but even
in the starlight could make out an area that appeared to be
an area of alpine lakes off its south shoulder, somewhere around
the White Chuck Glacier. Then, hastily preparing my tent, I
hopped inside, very ready to ingest a giant pile of food.
I had everything. Salty crackers with cream cheese, beef jerky
in nugget form, grape Gatorade, and a fancy burrito stuffed
with black beans and spices. I feasted away to my heart's content.
Now, before this year's climbing trip, in the course of an email
discussion about something else with a friend, I mentioned that
I was going mountain climbing. She responded that she would
pray for a safe trip. I replied in my next email, "As for
Glacier Peak, where I am headed Tuesday morning, please pray
that a bear will attack me on the way up and that I'll have
the fortitude to kill it with my bare hands. Then pray that
on the way down, a cougar tries the same thing and meets a similar
fate. Hopefully I will have a few claw marks on my face also
to assist in the later recounting of the tale." Out there
in the wilderness, sitting in my nylon tent, covered in breadcrumbs
and food wrappers, hands and face soaked in the lovely scented
oils of cream cheese and beef jerky, that sort of sentiment
somehow began to fail in me.
I fell asleep thinking about grizzlies and panthers.
A few hours later, my worst fears came to pass.
At the same instant, a mountain lion and a brown bear pounced
through the thin walls of both sides my tent, intent on gorging
themselves on fattened Seattleite. Instead, surprising each
other, they both got into a fight and rolled down the ridge
together in a furious fightball, not to be seen again. Ok, that
part didn't really happen
.
The next morning I got going at around 8:00,
which is a big change from the usual 3:00 am summit bids I'm
used to, having to get up early to avoid the sun melted snow
that leads to insane-making "post hole" hiking. Several
pictures I found of the mountain online taken during summer
months showed a virtually snow free approach on the south shoulder
of the mountain. I packed up and viewed my approach choices.
The first was to hug the elevation line to the east and end
up in the area where I had seen the alpine lakes the night before.
This choice, according to what I could see on the map, would
have me going completely off trail but at least I could hug
the elevation line and not have to endure the body punishment
of a lot of elevation gain and descent. The second option was
to follow the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) northward, down to Baekos
Creek and hike up the river canyon to the summit. In the midst
of this decision making process, there was a problem. I had
heard about a forest fire that had developed to the east on
the radio the day before, and a thick haze had already filled
the air that morning, which meant I couldn't see any great distance
in detail to plan my alpine lakes approach. I decided I had
better stick to the trail on this particular day because of
the visibility. If I hiked up the river canyon, I could always
just turn around and bump right back into the PCT if things
didn't go right.
As soon as I hit the trail, I noticed a lone
figure approaching from the valley below. Excellent. When you
run into someone in a wilderness area, it's different than just
running into someone on the sidewalk. Out in the nether-zones,
when a meeting occurs, there before you is a human being who
has planned for a long time to be in the middle of nowhere,
just like you, and has paid the logistical and physical costs
to get there. And you know that each has a predictably burly
heart if his willingness has been followed with the action to
be standing right there in front of you. With anticipation,
I headed down to see who this one might be. It ended up being
a guy in his early thirties with a huge backpack, wearing a
do-rag on his head which was covered in mosquitoes. He said
he was toward the end of a seven day hike, and was dirty, stained,
and cut up from having to bushwhack through a still unimproved
section of the PCT damaged by the floods. It was a joy to see
him, as he had already endured several times the suffering that
I would during my whole trip, and his face bore hardened but
satisfied testament to the rewards of that type of excursion
into the deep.
After our brightening conversation, I glanced one more time
at the impressive mosquito congregation that was steadily growing
on his head and headed off down the trail, and down, down, down
it went. The scenery was gorgeous but I grew concerned very
quickly with all the elevation I was losing, knowing I'd only
have to make it up again when I got to the intersection with
the river valley I'd planned to hook up with. By this time I
was well committed to my trail choice, as my opportunity to
change course was geographically eliminated right around the
time I bumped into the mosquito-headed hiker, cut off from changing
course at right about that spot by a rapidly widening White
Chuck river to the east, which lay smack dab between me and
the mountain. As it was, the trail I was taking was already
scarred by the flooding, but it was about to get worse.
Somewhere far into my elevation skydive down the trail, I ran
into the intersection of the PCT and the White Chuck river.
Although the Forest Service had constructed a big beautiful
foot bridge over what was usually a fairly sedate watercourse,
it was very clear who had won the battle of the 2003 flood.
It was the river. The former footbridge, supported by massive
logs, had been tossed with great violence into the waterfall
chasm just downstream and was pinched between the rock walls,
in shambles. The effect was scary. Scarier yet were the various
scraps of wood tossed into the river by previous passers-bys
to aid their crossings. I am convinced there are at least three
dead hikers downstream of that arrangement. After considering
the crossing, it took just a short while to permanently make
up my mind. No way. Falling in would have meant a relatively
instant death as the water was grey, melting straight off the
nearby glaciers, fast running, and flowing into a 40 foot inferno
of a waterfall about 10 yards down from my future insertion/dunk
point. For my skinny frame this would have equated not to a
Man vs. Wild television escape, but rather, severe cold shock
followed directly by a wheat-combine thrashing, mass inhalation
of water, and a plummeting-down-a-waterfall-but-really-killer-looking
Hollywood-villain-style death. That sounded cool on paper, but
I wasn't really into it. Instead, I bushwhacked about 100 yards
upstream until I found a log straddling the river. It was wedged
firmly at a slightly upward angle, and the hop down onto the
log from the bank was precarious, but I did it anyway, and shimmied
on my butt, inch by inch, across the fifty feet or so of log,
with the White Chuck River raging 20 feet below, ready to gobble.
Another 100 yard thrashing through the underbrush finally brought
me back onto the trail, and it wasn't long after that I was
able to hook up with Baekos Creek.
The route looked promising. The creek bed was covered in many
big rocks but was also sandy and often virtually flat, so it
looked doable. I headed upstream and within 20 minutes was confronted
by an insurmountable waterfall. Backtracking a bit, I headed
up into the underbrush and made my way around it. As I kept
on, I climbed about a mile before the river valley walls steepened
harshly. The river walls above the water consisted of crumbling
dirt and rock and were completely impassable. Above each wall
grew chest high, thick underbrush, a great deal thicker than
what I had seen in the forest below. I knew if I tried to make
my way through that, it would cost me a precious hour or even
two, and I didn't have a knife long enough to hack my way through
it all anyway. Maybe if those brilliant engineers at the crampon
factory would get their act together, they'd make a crampon
that converts into a machete. Sheesh. Worthless. Anyway, taking
a good long look at the situation, I knew this route had become
hopeless. I don't give up easily, but knew this was certainly
the end.
Not discouraged much at all, I took a good long look at the
summit, which was right there in front of me, and then turned
around and started back. It had been worth it just to get out
of the house to hike and climb and experience an alpine environment
again. Just as I started hiking down, a military jet shrieked
over the mountain at a low elevation, its booming echoes heralding
my change of plans. Rather than head down through the rocks
and sand again, I decided to bushwhack through the less dense
forest that I'd circumvented the waterfall through, except this
time, for a change of scenery; I'd hack through it all the way
down to the PCT. Going through the forest like that can be rough,
but I love the feeling of perhaps being the only person ever
to have set foot in a certain place; or if not ever, certainly
for the last 50 or 100 years. Off trail and way up a random
river valley in the Glacier Peak Wilderness, you can pretty
much be sure of that. Part of the fun of that is always keeping
an eye out for unusual things, like the bones of a dead prospector
from the 1920s, still clutching his pan, or something similar
to that. Speaking of which, an interesting feature of being
out in the deep wilderness is that out there in the overgrowth,
far from the trail, in the middle of the most unvisited spots
nature has to offer
you find a lot of balloons. That's
right, you heard me right. Balloons. Remember those balloons
you set free at your kid's birthday party with all those five
year old party attendees wishes tied to them? Or whatever? That
wedding you went to? They end up in the wilderness. I found
two balloons out there on that stretch of the hike.
Now, here is not the part where you hear me decry the evils
of modern balloonery, for all its environmental impact throughout
our lovely wild green space. (And by the way, all you greenies
out there, they are usually in some very great state of decomposition.)
I actually like coming upon balloons out there. Here you are
bushwhacking through nature's fury, with all those greens and
tans and browns, and out of nowhere, there before you is something
that's bright purple or neon pink. Cool. Also, I always make
sure to look for a reward note: "Send this note to such
and such address and we'll give you $5." I haven't seen
one of those yet but it's coming.
Anyway, I finally stumbled my way out of there and got back
on the PCT, with that long uphill hike ahead of me. I shimmied
my way back over the Death Log, and there just a few steps up
the trail was another hiker, who was wearing a very small pack
and of all things, one of those 1980's French Foreign Legion
caps with the double fabric flaps hanging onto his shoulders.
Wow. We exchanged pleasantries, and I noted from his accent
that he was Australian. I asked him if he was going to the summit.
He said, "No, I'm hiking the trail." I asked, "How
much of it?" He replied, "The whole thing." Still
confused, thinking he was talking about a noted loop trail that
particular section of the trail was a part of, I asked, "You
mean the loop trail?" He said, "No, the whole trail.
From Mexico to the Canadian border." I was totally amazed.
He said he'd been hiking for three and a half months, and had
been thinking about doing the trail for eight or nine years,
and finally got the time off from work he needed to do it. He
was almost done, and expressed relief at the thought, though
he didn't look much worse the wear for being on the trail for
almost four months. It was a total privilege to have met him.
It reminded me of when my buddy Mylon and I were in Southern
California climbing a peak called San Gorgonio a number of years
ago. We ran into an older female forest ranger, somewhere around
her sixties, who went by the name of Teddy. We talked to her
for quite awhile as we were setting up camp, and she was really
nice and helpful and fun to talk to. The next day, on our ascent,
we ran into a couple of other rangers and somehow communicated
to them that we had run into this Teddy the day before.
One of the rangers said, "Oh
I'll bet she didn't
mention it, did she?"
Of course we had to ask, "Mention what?"
"That she was the first woman to hike the entire Pacific
Crest Trail solo, she's like a legend." He went on to explain
that she also lived in a cabin year-round in some nearby part
of those woods.
On our way back down the mountain, I saw her working on a hilltop
near our campsite so I paused to talk with her again. I told
her that some other rangers had told us about her secret, and
she quietly, sheepishly admitted that it was the truth. I marveled
at this and asked her how old she was. She was nice about it,
but kept that to herself also.
The hike back up the PCT to my tent was quite
a grind, and by the time I reached camp, I was pretty dang tired,
realizing I'd already been hiking for almost eight hours. When
I arrived I was relieved to see that no marmot or even bigger
animal had chewed through my tent to get to the remainder of
my food inside, and I sat down on a rock overlooking the valley
I had just hiked through, hoping to rest a bit, and also hoping
that the severity of the ridgeline would concentrate enough
wind to keep at least the mosquitoes at bay. I was wrong. So
horribly, horribly wrong. There was indeed a breeze that would
have kept any city bugs away, but these were wilderness mosquitoes,
and I was probably only the second hiker they'd ever seen in
their lives, and there was no do-rag to separate them from my
lovely, blood rich scalp. Looking behind me, I could see tens
of mosquitoes fighting furiously to cross over into my wind
shadow and wildcat their mining drills into my rich oil fields
of Dutch blood.
I couldn't even sit there for a minute in peace, so that did
it. I was out of there. I wasn't going to sit in my tent until
it got dark, and I couldn't remain outside, so I decided to
at least get hiking, and laboriously packed up my stuff. Finally
ready to roll with a full pack on my shoulders, I took one more
look at the valley I'd just hiked from and noted specifically
that the early morning smoke haze that had altered my course
plans had already blown through. Alas, it's often these sort
of simple choices based on unknowns of temporary circumstances
that can change destinies. I turned to leave, thinking about
what could have been. Lastly, propping that "no camping"
sign back up into its rocky base, I headed off down the trail,
with the bulk of Glacier Peak wilderness disappearing behind
me. (I think I remember doing that with the sign anyway. If
not, hopefully someone cut it up and used it as firewood.) Looking
down the grade of the trail, I was really thankful that it had
been dark when I had climbed it the night before, because it
would have been really discouraging to have seen the angle and
length of it during the daytime. That was a true blessing in
disguise. The trail was beautiful, with lots of flowers and
tall grass and multitudes of large marmots communicating their
warning calls to each other, making great haste to bind out
of my path when I rounded a corner without their knowing of
it.
Somewhere around the area I had run into the two young hikers
the day before, I came across another seriously pack-laden hiker.
He was headed to White Pass, wherever that was, and was wondering
where he could find some water. I told him there was water everywhere.
That it was falling from the sky, man. That we were submerged
in it. My eyes got wilder and I started to do this Dennis Hopper/Charles
Manson hopping dance, flailing my arms in the air, singing about
how there was water right there inside him if he'd only wish
to see it for himself, man. He just stood there looking at me.
Just kidding. I told him where he could find some water, and
off we went. After that encounter, hours passed with much suffering
of the leg bones, on the very steepest parts of the trail. I
decided when I got to Mackinaw Shelter I would decide whether
to press on or not, it would be a full three more hours of hiking
after that to get to the trailhead. When I got there, it was
effectively dark, and I felt I had no choice. There would be
no staying the night at that very boring locale with only three
hours of hiking to go. I was destined for greater things: A
Big Gulp of Dr. Pepper thick with ice, and a vanilla milkshake
at Denny's with some pancakes, laden with butter and syrup.
The last three hours of drudgery, hiking in darkness only broken
by my dim headlamp, would be filled with mind games to distract
myself from the many forms of suffering experienced on this
voluntary death march. After having already been hiking since
around 8:00 am, it was necessary. For example, I would count
steps. One hundred steps would kill one minute. If I counted
a thousand steps, that would kill ten minutes. I also stopped
every twenty minutes to eat and drink, which was by that time
completely necessary, as the only thing that was keeping my
body going was constant food source replenishment. On and on
it went.
I finally broke out of there at 11:15 pm. In all, I had hiked
for 13 hours that day, a distance of 17 miles, with mucho elevation
gain and loss. Combined with the previous day's 10 miles, I
hiked for a total 27 miles during the two day trip. Summit not
included.
On the way home, I stopped at a 7-11 and got my Big Gulp. Denny's
was not on the menu after all however, as I just wanted to go
home, and rest my sore arse.
The next day was passed experiencing the life
of a cripple. Every time I got up from the couch, I had to move
gingerly for two full minutes before my legs would work correctly.
A look in the mirror offered a face rimmed with around 25 mosquito
and black fly bites. Including other body parts, I counted around
70 bites all together. I also picked up some sort of odd alpine
birthed fungus on my left index finger, which stuck around for
some time. The next day offered much of the same hobbling and
itching, until eventually all things normalized.
I will destroy you, Glacier Peak. All of these
sufferings over the last three years will equate to nothing
but success at the apex of your lofty, ice and rock encrusted
crown. You will feel the bottom of my feet grinding down on
the top of your head, and I will be exalted as I stand there,
and you will be brought low. Returning home from my conquest,
I will write your name on my ice axe with a black Sharpie, right
next to all the other victims. Then I will ignore you, my noble
boot not setting foot on your soils for the rest of my God-given
life, unless one of my prodigious offspring would like to vanquish
you just as I have, with my Napoleonic tutelage guiding their
every step, until you are, once again, mounted like a lowly,
load bearing donkey
Next year, Glacier Peak, next year.
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