Celebrity Irish chef Noel McMeel is a charmer
--- self assured, boyishly good-looking, and positively exuberant about
food. It's no wonder he's caught the fancy of television audiences throughout
the UK, cooking at the forefront of an edible revolution blazing across
Ireland. I had the great pleasure to sit and chat with him recently
during his lightning quick promotional tour of the U.S. at the Los Angeles
Biltmore Hotel. He was relaxed and engaging despite a brutal schedule,
effortlessly balancing his obligations to the press with the culinary
pressure of cooking a fabulous meal for 300 hungry critics later that
night. Confident in his abilities, Noel is a talented Irish chef on
a mission, conquering one set of taste buds at a time.
The principles McMeel endorses are lofty, yet simple. Find the very
best locally grown seasonal ingredients. Support farms and businesses
that respect the earth. Prepare meals that delight and excite the senses,
but don't let creativity lure you to overcomplicate or overdo. Rule
#1: let the natural flavor of good food shine through.
Noel's commitment to these concepts is long-standing,
unwavering, and not merely the residual effect of the many kitchens
he has graced. He is quick to credit sustainability guru Alice Waters
and her staff at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California for life changing
lessons in culinary simplicity. But McMeel is bent on paying forward
those ideas in his own grand vision for modern-day Ireland. This man
has very big dreams.
A McDreamy McMeel
He's not content to revel in his success at Castle Leslie,
where he cooked for seven and a half years for the likes of Sir Paul
McCartney's lavish nuptials, where he stamped his personality so vividly
that the place is virtually synonymous with his name. It's not enough
that he's a frequent presence on BBC television's Great British Menu,
Food Poker and Master Apprentice and RTE's The Afternoon Show --- all
while undertaking a new challenge at the luxurious Lough Erne Resort
(that's pronounced Lock-Airn, all you Yanks) in Northern Ireland. No,
Chef McMeel has even more fish to fry.
Kilkenny, Leinster
As much as he is presently focused on fine dining, Noel is intent on
spreading his knowledge and philosophy beyond his own kitchen and across
any invisibly drawn class lines. He recently teamed up with Tourism
Ireland in a splashy Boston to L.A. tour of the United States, just
to show American palates firsthand how remarkable Irish cooking has
become. (It was a devious plot to soothe and tantalize us who
knew that sensual shot glass of goats buttermilk sorbet was addictive?
But now that we've tasted McDreamy's luscious breast of wood pigeon
atop a caramelized onion glazed puff, his delectably rich Silver Hill
duck confit straddling creamy mashed potatoes with chive and fennel
and an intense drizzle of Irish orchard honey-sweetened stock reduction,
they know we can't stay home.) And Noel's looking to the future, maybe
even a legacy, in another powerful project he's cultivating --- a hands-on
garden-to-kitchen school program to get kids cooking early not
just in Ireland, why stop there? To top it all off he's building a new
website to showcase his ideas, share his recipes and boost his friends'
businesses at www.NoelMcMeel.com.
In fact, despite basking in the current fickle spotlight of competitive
cooking, McMeel seems to be a team player-genuinely grounded-and first
and foremost, a really nice guy.
Exceptionally devoted to his craft, Noel uses his talent,
ethos and celebrity to promote a fresh return to smart idealism in the
kitchen. The result is grand food simply delicious to the tongue, healthy
for the belly, good for the Irish economy and oh so kind to the earth.
Check it out, people. One more reason to indulge in
a wee bit of travel... I see a McDreamy Irish McMeel in your future.
Wendy, I truly enjoyed your info especially since we leave in
a week to celebrate my 50th Birthday. Was it necessary to make reservations
at the restaurants? Was there a dress code for the restaurants? What would you
recommend not missing while there? Was the spa experience worth it? Did you
travel away from the resort while there? Thanks,
--- Kim P. Fuquay, Varina, NC
Hi Kim.
Sorry for the delay in responding...you
had heavy competition with the holidays. Reservations at Excellence restaurants
are not necessary and you will not find a wait. The dress code is basically
no bathing suits and flip-flops...with a decided a mix of atmospheres. Mostly
the open-air beachside spots are super casual, the rest slightly more formal.
Truly, as long as you are clothed, I don't think you'd be turned away anywhere,
though most people seemed to enjoy dressing up at night...I suspect more for
their own pleasure than any sense of decorum.
The spa experience was worth it, though
my favorite part wasn't the actual massage. The precursor was a 45 min. or so
rotation from sauna to a series of (kind of wild) water jets which was very
different and very cool, not just for women. In its' entirety, and with the
serenity of the beach/champagne/strawberries, it was memorable.
We did not travel away from the hotel
this trip, but the hotel is very helpful in arranging day excursions to fit
your desires and you do not have to book these until you arrive.
Have a great time!
--- Wendy
Haven't been called Tad for . . .gee, maybe I've NEVER been
called Tad . . . guess I'm the only one with chutzpah enough to mention Bourdain.
BRILLIANT?
--- Ken, Shutesbury, MA
I think we must have had an entirely different
experience in the UK. (Fresh Food and Real Ale week 1).
We were up in Edinburgh and they served something called Neeps
& Tatties. The items were boiled so long that I couldnt
even recognize what I was eating. Come to think of it I
couldnt taste them either. Later I found that Neeps
are Turnips and Tatties are potatoes.
--- Lindy, Phoenix, AZ
My mouth was watering as I read some of your descriptions of
the fantastic fare of ... England? I had always felt smug about
the lowly reputation of British cuisine as this gave us at least
one country with a worse culinary reputation than America's. I
guess I'll have to change my views. Your article made me actually
want to take a CULINARY tour of Britain. Yummy yummy yummy.
--- Sandy Miner, Portland, OR
Thanks for your note. Thanks to Traveling Boy I get
to interview a world famous chef this week who is widely recognized as spearheading
the Yummy movement in Ireland. Guess I'll have to take yet another culinary
tour a little further north and check it out... (I love my job!) --- Wendy
Very interesting, mouth-watering piece by Wendy! (A McDreamy McMeel). Your
web site is fascinating!
--- Susie, Victoria, BC
Combining travel, food, and intelligent advice -- BRILLIANT!
Your site fills a long-felt need for hungry roamers. Keep it up! It's Anthony
Bourdain with reservations and CLASS.
For a wealth of travel ideas to fit every
price range, interest and style, see www.DiscoverIreland.com.
Whether your passion is food, history, gardening, golf, castles, the arts,
incredible scenery, or all of the above, you can enjoy the magic of Ireland
on foot, cycle and horseback, by self-driven car, on escorted tours or
in chauffeur-driven luxury. "Cookery courses" in the Search
bar will yield an extensive list of cooking schools.
Click
here for Noel's goat's buttermilk sorbet recipe, see
A helpful site is www.goodfoodireland.ie
which lists many food events, artisan and farmer's markets, and some of
the best eating and drinking spots in a host of Irish locales.