My wife and I had just arrived at Rio de Janeiro’s famous Copacabana Beach. It was in February, the height of Brazil’s Austral summer. Surrounded by deeply tanned locals, playing ball games, and some even dancing the samba, I looked like I just got off the boat from Finland.
Copacabana Beach is an expansive 2.5 miles long beach and Brazil’s most populous. The others include Leblon Beach with no crowds and clouds; Ipanema Beach, popular with the wealthy; and Praia do Leme, a lovely beach with clean water, but a bit too crowded.
In the distance, Christ the Redeemer (Portuguese: (Cristo Redentor) looked down at us. The statue was constructed in 1931 to commemorate Brazil’s 100 years of independence from Portugal. At 98 ft, high with welcoming arms, stretching 92 ft. wide, it was selected as one of the modern 7 Wonders of the World.
“Yankee go home” were the first words we heard in English. They were delivered by an American expat with a decidedly New Jersey accent. Along with his Brazilian wife they approached us.
“Gee, how’d you know we were Americans,” I laughed.
He replied, “Because your wife is carrying a camera (She only uses film) and wearing jewelry and you both have wristwatches, a dead giveaway that you were Yanks. Only carry the money you need for the day because you may be pickpocketed.”
“Try to see it their way. Imagine you’re a man who has not worked for five years, his children are starving and his wife has a devastating toothache. I’d steal a camera and then sell it on the black market. Wouldn’t you?”
Yes, crime is a problem. Rio remains dangerous. In 2023, the national rate was 18.5 per 100,000, while Rio’s was 21.3, ranking it among the top 10 highest cities.
Pixote (“Small Child,” “The Law of the Weakest”) is a 1980 Brazilian crime drama film directed by Héctor Babenco. It plays like a raw documentary, and informed the world how crime really is so horrendous in Rio.
But the people on the beach seemed happy. Copacabana Beach plays host to millions of revelers during the annual New Year’s Eve celebrations, and for the first three editions of the tournament, has been the official venue of the FIFA Beach Soccer World Cup. On December 31, 1994, Copacabana’s New Year’s Eve celebrations featured a Rod Stewart concert with an attendance of 4.5 million, making it the largest concert crowd of all time.
With all that is said and done, someday I will return to Copacabana Beach for a New Year’s Eve celebration. How can I not. I love the people, culture and pulse of life.
