It was April in Flanders, the Dutch-speaking northern area of Belgium, and two weeks of cold and rain suddenly came to an end. Warm skies dried the soaked fields, drawing daffodils, narcissus and poppies from the ground, birdsong filled the air and the university students and general population of Ghent, Bruges and Leuven flocked to the riverbanks and city parks to bake in the warm air and enjoy Belgium’s favorite product — not chocolate, waffles, sprouts nor fries, but beer.

More than 800 types are produced in Belgium, most served in their own beer glass shape, from fruit flavored lambics, to high-alcohol Trappist ales and hoppy lagers like Stella Artois, whose parent company just purchased Anheuser-Busch, becoming the world’s largest brewer. Belgium doesn’t have the soil to produce good wine, but who needs dirt when you’ve got the world’s best beer.

Chocolate is a close second in consumption, and there are more than 2,200 shops in Belgium. I visited as many as I could. I also have a fondness for waffles and fries (called “frites” in French), but brussels sprouts, not so much.

Bruges is about an hour train ride northwest of Brussels, lying near the North Sea. It is a beautifully preserved, cobblestoned medieval town of about 120 thousand, where 3 million tourists converge every year

The city has the feel of a film set and became a main character of the film “In Bruges.” Now it is even more of a travel destination, crowds are abundant and can cause claustrophobia in the summer. It is the most visited medieval city in Europe.

Steven Spielberg and Peter Jackson collaborated on three animated 3-D movies featuring Belgium’s favorite comic strip, adventuresome boy reporter Tintin. The film took advantage of photogenic Belgium during filming. The Tintin Shop, 3 Streenstraat, stocked every imaginable related item.

You might also be familiar with the Smurfs, another Belgian creation, and Smurf shops are abundant throughout Belgium.

Navigable concentric canals give Bruges the nickname “Venice of the North.” Take the 30-minute boat cruise (6 Euros) to get a real feel for the town. The horse-drawn carriage rides take you on a street tour and are very popular (30 Euros for 35 minutes).

The main market, or “Markt,” is dominated by the 259-foot belfry, whose 47-bell carillon entertains every half-hour during the day. If you are hale and hearty, you can climb the 366 steps to the observation area for a grand view of the city. If you prefer to stay on the ground, in its shadow on the right lies the best Belgium “frites” shack in town. Try them with the garlic mayonnaise (2.5 Euros).

Don’t miss the Friet Museum for the history of Belgian fries and nearby is the Choco-Story chocolate museum, both under the same management.

The best chocolate shops I savored in Belgium are Chocolate Line in Bruges, which has experimental chef Dominique Persoone creating new masterpieces for international competitions. Daskalides of Ghent, Pierre Marcolini and Wittamer in Brussels and Raets-Putseys in Leuven are also artisan Belgian chocolate-makers of great skill and worth a visit.

When you are thirsty, try the oldest bar in Bruges, De Garre, hidden in a narrow — only wide enough for two people to pass — cul-de-sac between the Markt and Burg squares. Ask for the house beer, the best in all of Belgium according to many aficionados, made exclusively for this pub and available nowhere else. Open since 1856, De Halve Maan brewery provides tours and a glass of beer in the tasting room.

Lying halfway between Bruges and Brussels, Ghent is a university town with a population of 230,000 and 60,000 students, most of whom descended to the riverbank of the Leie and enjoyed the warm spring weather and the local beer favored by students, Jupiler. It was in Ghent that I discovered my favorite Belgian beer Orval, a full-flavored Trappist ale with a hoppy finish.

A new brewery, the first since 1976, opened while we were visiting. Gruut will produce five types of beer that will be available in the United States. I took the tour and sampled the beer. They’ll do well.

For sustenance, visit Butcher’s Hall, or “Groot Vleeshuis” in Dutch, and try the air-dried ham, sausages and cheeses. If you need a little mustard for your meat, sample some of the 30 different varieties prepared by Tierenteijn-Verlent, 3 groentenmarkt, founded in 1790. Best cheese market was Petite Normandie and don’t miss the Vismarkt to see the daily catch on sale.

Belgium’s most prestigious university town is Leuven, pop. 90,000. Lying nine miles east of Brussels, the lively student population of 30,000 supports a number of clubs and bars, mostly situated around the city square, and there are a number of warm and inexpensive bistros and restaurants that feed them.

Most of the city was burned by the Germans in World War I, but it has been restored and some medieval areas have been preserved as university housing.

It is also the home of Stella Artois beer, and tours in English are given regularly. The 10 Euro fee includes two glasses of beer and a beer cookbook.

If You Go:

Family run Chez Leon in the heart of Brussels famous restaurant lane, on the cobblestone walking street Rue des Bouchers, is known for its mussels and fries, the national dish of Belgium. The restaurant had hosted Hilary Clinton and TV travel writer Burt Wolf just days before moi; but they didn’t ask for my signed photo to place on the wall of fame.

Cantillon Brewery in Brussels produces the traditional sour lambic fruit beers and gives tours and tastings. De Bier Temple had 600 beers and 300 glasses on its shelves in Bruges and nearby Bierbrasserie Cambrinus featured 400 beers and 325 glasses. Choices, choices.

Some memorable restaurants where I dined in Flanders included three Michelin-starred restaurants; the chic one-star Belga Queen in Brussels, two-star Comme Chez Soi in Brussels, where I dined at the chefs table in the kitchen, and in Bruges at the three-star De Karmeliet. Den Dyver restaurant in Bruges features dishes made with beer sauces. Patrick Devos in Bruges brought us into his kitchen for a cooking lesson. In Leuven Tres Luxe is a chic restaurant with an experimental young chef and Pakhuis in Ghent has a high-vibe industrial feel.

The Tourist Office of Flanders in New York (www.visitflanders.us; 212-584-2336) publishes a number of free pamphlets and maps, information on special events, festivals, museums, self-guided tours, and places to stay, from hostels to five-star hotels. I stayed at the Dominican in Brussels, the Marriott in Ghent and the Kempinsky Hotel, former residence of the Duke of Burgundy, in Bruges.

Originally published July 2013.

The post Belgium: In Flanders Fields appeared first on Traveling Boy.

Photographer Allan Troy Smith spent three-years documenting daily life in China. His photographs focus on the world’s most populated nation in October, 2007 which was the time of great transition. The photographs are intended to speak for themselves.

Below are copyrighted photographs by Allan Smith. You can look but you may not steal.

Originally published in 2010.

The post Transition: Pictures of China in 2007 appeared first on Traveling Boy.

The Old Town Clock sits on a grassy bluff, overlooking Halifax’s historic downtown waterfront. Erected in 1800 for the British garrison at the Citadel, it is the most important symbol of Halifax’s rich historical past. As I rested on the lawn below the octagon tower, I could see a hybrid city of elegant 18th-century architecture alongside modern buildings of glass and steel. Groups of tourist, locals and laughing school children strolled past me, while ships glided in the distance on the world’s second largest natural harbor. As the September sun shone down, I realized I could sit there forever, or at least for the next four days – which was the short time allotted for my visit to this pristine part of Atlantic Canada – but this was not that type of trip, for my plan was to see as much of Nova Scotia as four days would allow me. Tomorrow I would rent a car and head north, but the rest of today would be devoted to exploring Halifax, the provincial capital of Nova Scotia. As the clock on the tower hit 2 pm, I realized it was time to get moving.

Day One

Established in 1749, Halifax was Canada’s first permanent British town. Due to its proximity to the British Isles and the Caribbean, it has been Canada’s leading port city ever since its founding. Even today, as I wandered down narrow streets, now lined with galleries, pubs and sidewalk cafes, all roads seem to lead to the waterfront, where 19th-century privateers’ warehouses have been transformed into boutiques and restaurants. An essential stop was the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, which covers almost 140 years in the history of Nova Scotia. Special exhibitions are devoted to the Halifax Explosion of December 1917, the largest man-made explosion prior to the Atomic bomb; the sinking of the Titanic, which met her doom just 700 nautical miles east of Halifax; and the history of Sailing Ship Rigs

Dinner that night was on the waterfront for local scallops and a solid micro-brew. The whole city seemed to be out. Live music played from three different venues. It became obvious that this was a city filled with people who liked living here. Accommodations were at the elegant Lord Nelson Hotel, located across the street from The Victorian Halifax Public Gardens (circa 1867).

Day Two

Morning began with a tour of the Halifax Farmers’ Market, considered the oldest in North America. Once again it was a setting packed with happy Haligonians as well as the bounty of the season with items like local berries, fruit and maple syrup. I loaded my rental car with delicacies, knowing they would come in handy for the long day on the road.

The Town of Pictou is located on the stunning Northumberland Shore. Coined the “Birthplace of New Scotland,” it is here that the first Scottish immigrants landed in 1773. After a stroll through the quaint little town, I drove over to the historic Pictou Lodge Resort, a quintessential Nova Scotia oceanside resort that features log cottages and its own private beach.

It had been a scenic, but taxing two-hour drive from Halifax, so I decided to make camp at the resort and conserve my strength for the next two days of driving. Besides, I overheard that the lodge’s restaurant was serving local crab and halibut that night.

Day Three

Today, I would have to put the peddle to the metal. My goal was to make it to the legendary Keltic Lodge on the world-famous Cabot Trail (named for Italian explorer Giovanni Caboto) by nightfall. I knew, though, that I would have to make two important stops. The Alexander Graham Bell Museum is located in the very New England-like town of Baddeck, where Bell was to make his vacation home in 1885. The museum is devoted to the life of this inventor of the telephone and significant figure in the education of the deaf. The other stop was the Gaelic College; spread over 350 acres of woodland overlooking St. Ann’s Bay. Founded in 1938, it is the only college in the world devoted to the study and preservation of the Gaelic language, and Celtic arts and culture. The college is so renowned that once while visiting Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, I found a number of locals were sending their children there to study Gaelic language and culture, much of which had been destroyed in Scotland by the English in the 18th century. They were literally traveling to the New World to learn about their own history, culture and language.

After a few more hours back on the road – thank heavens for the snack at the college – Cape Smokey came rising out of the sea and soon I was at Keltic Lodge. Resting on a peninsula, overlooking Ingonish Beach, this is one of those historic resorts that feature its own 18-hole golf course, swimming pool, tennis courts, kayaking and hiking trails. After touring the grounds, it seemed logical that a full lobster dinner in the Purple Thistle Dining Room was the appropriate way to end the perfect day, plus regain my strength for tomorrow’s long drive.

Day Four

Cape Breton Highlands National Park consists of 366 square miles of magnificent highlands and rugged coastal wilderness. Established in 1936 as the first national park in the Atlantic Provinces, it is for many the highpoint of a journey to Nova Scotia. The Cabot Trail runs through the park, offering seemingly endless hiking opportunities. On foot, I spotted whales, bald eagles and even a moose, swimming across a lake. From the car I enjoyed picturesque valleys and unforgettable vistas of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

On the other side of the Park is the Acadian town of Chéticamp. La Société Saint-Pierre is a cultural center whose main objective is to preserve Acadian heritage in Cape Breton. The French-speaking Acadians pre-dated the arrival of the English, but most fled the area after the defeat of France by the English in the French and Indian War. Many headed down to Louisiana to an area now known as Acadiana, where the Acadian name evolved into Cajun. The center features traditional crafts and food items. I made a note that Acadian chowder, unlike New England chowder, consists of a clear broth. I followed it with a cheese sandwich and a local berry pie, wisely knowing that nourishment would be required for me to make through the rest of the day.

My final night of accommodations would be at the Glenora Inn & Distillery, located on Nova Scotia’s spectacular Céilidh Trail. The Glenora Distillery is the first single malt whisky distillery in North America. The distillery rests on a rural 300 acre site with buildings housing malt, kiln, milling production, warehouses, bottling and lodging facilities, constructed in a traditional style, similar to distilleries found in Scotland. Tours are offered as well as a sampling of their 12-year old heather and honey tasting “uisge beatha” (Gaelic for “water of life”). Single malt is a whisky produced exclusively from malted barley that is not blended with another whisky. After my tour and hearty seafood dinner, I was told to expect something special for there was to be a céilidh in the distillery’s pub. A céilidh is a traditional Gaelic musical social gathering that originated in Scotland. Céilidhs flourished in Nova Scotia, where Scottish immigrants would meet with friends for an evening of song, dance and generally whisky. Everyone in the room is invited to participate. I was pleasantly surprised to see one of the men sharing my table standup and sing a song in Gaelic. It was the perfect setting to enjoy a wee dram of Glenora’s water of life. I decided it best to book a room for the night in Glenora’s inn. After all, I needed to conserve my strength for the long drive back to Halifax to complete my five-day journey of Nova Scotia.

For further information about travel to Nova Scotia, contact (800) 565-0000 or go to NovaScotia.com.

Originally published September 2013

The post Canada: Nova Scotia in Four Days appeared first on Traveling Boy.

Flying into Prague, the city lies below, red tile roofs fanning over white and yellow buildings sprawling in no apparent pattern around the Vltava River, the result of a natural process of undisturbed development over centuries. Undeterred by city planning, it is what makes this city of spires so surprising, charming and rare.

Prague is one of the most beautiful capitals in the world having never suffered the full brunt and devastation of war and reconstruction.

I was drawn to this landlocked nation in Central Europe by the promise of unspoiled medieval cities and towns preserved like no others in Europe, but I was not prepared for the stunning diversity and grace of the architecture and the lyrical natural beauty of the land. I’d also heard about the glass, porcelain, textiles and other decorative arts, but was most intrigued by the promise of the greatest beer in the world.

Shaped somewhat like a dumpling, the Czech Republic is surrounded (clockwise) by Germany, Poland, Slovakia and Austria and has a population of only 10.3 million. It is roughly the size of Pennsylvania and its countryside is reminiscent of the rolling green hills, mountains and forests of the Pocono region. The economy is strong with only about three percent unemployment.

I explored the western two thirds of the country known as Bohemia. The region is divided into North, South, East, West and Central Bohemia. The Capital of Prague is in Central Bohemia and contains 10 percent of the nation’s population, with the rest scattered about in pristinely preserved small cities, towns and villages.

Bohemia has nothing to do with the artistic life on the Left Bank of Paris or the Beat Generation. It was the name of the Celtic tribe that inhabited the land before the coming of the Slavs in the 5th century.

In Prague, driving is really not an option in much of the city. Its cobblestoned streets were designed for exploration by foot. It has an excellent rail and bus system that will transport you around for 18 Czech Crowns (Koruna), about a dollar. There are lots of walking streets with only the occasional automobile snaking through the crowded, meandering lanes. A circular highway is currently in construction around the outside of the city to funnel truck and auto traffic away from the inner city.

It is useful to learn a few phrases in Czech that will go a long way with locals when asking for help. Most speak some English, but appreciate you taking the time to learn words and phrases like Dobry den (dobree den) hello, dekuji (dye qui) thank you, prosim (proseem) please and pivo is beer. I found pivo prosim quite handy.

The Czech’s drink more beer per capita than anywhere else in the world (adults consume about 80 gallons per year) and it’s cheaper than Coca Cola, costing about $1.25 a glass. Brewpubs are everywhere and, as in Ireland, the centers for social and intellectual life.

If you’re not imbibing, make sure to visit the numerous ornate churches, many of which have been converted to concert halls and offer performances on a daily basis, and the numerous museums, from the puppet and torture museums in the city of Cesky Krumlov to the Mucha, Mozart and National museums in Prague.

You must also climb the never ending steps leading to Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral, which loom above the city; cross the heavily statued Charles Bridge which links the Old Town with the Little Quarter, explore the hundreds of years of architecture on display in the Old Town Square and wait on the hour for the Astronomical Clock to whirl its figures as hundreds of tourists look on, visit the Jewish Quarter and Cemetery and the whimsical Dancing houses which guard the Jirasek Bridge over the river. Designed by American architect Frank Gehry, they are also nicknamed Fred and Ginger after the dancing duo.

I also sampled quite a bit of the hearty cuisine, which includes lots of pork, dumplings, cabbage and potatoes.

While in Prague I took a cooking class at the Culinary Institute taught by one of the country’s top chefs, Vaclav Fric, who helped us make a spectacular lunch that included crispy roast duck, a delicious cream chicken dill soup with poached egg, the best chewy dumplings I’ve ever tasted and a fruit filled pastry for dessert. He was off to Galway, Ireland following class to participate in the Annual World Oyster Shucking Contest, where he finished 12th last year.

And did I mention the beer? It is worth making a pilgrimage to the Pilsner Urquell Brewery in the town of Plzen, about 50 miles southeast of Prague. Also try the original Budweiser Budvar beer, which began brewing in 1785 in South Bohemia and is nothing like its insipid American cousin. Na Zdravi (nazzdravee – to your health).

Renting a car is the best way to see the countryside, but can be expensive with gas costing between $6-$7 a galloon. Plan your excursions wisely. I visited the beautiful and wealthy spa town of Karlovy Vary, close to the German border and about 60 miles northeast of Prague. Here you can take the cure from the healing mineral waters, if you can get past the vile and noxious taste of iron ore, magnesium and potassium. Most people sip the scalding hot waters from little porcelain teapots, but I’d rather drink the local liqueur Becherovka, an herbal digestive served chilled. Visit the Becherovka Museum of Liqueur at the far end of town for a tour and a taste.

Nearby is the world famous Moser glass factory, where you can tour and view the artisans spinning hot glass into delicate and colorfully etched masterpieces, while cooling themselves with up to five bottles of pilsner a day, provided by the company. Cold beer and hot molten material seemed an odd combination, but why fool with success.

Just a few kilometers from the factory is the medieval town of Loket, encircle by the Ohre River, which forms a natural moat. According to locals this was Goethe’s favorite town in Bohemia. Be sure to climb the castle tower for a grand view of the area, and see why Goethe was so enamored. The town is also famous for its porcelain and as a setting for the 2006 James Bond film “Casino Royale.”

The South Bohemian town of Cesky Krumlov is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its photogenic narrow streets, monumental castle, cobbled lanes, tiny shops and inviting riverside restaurants make it second to Prague in tourism. Ballooning over the city in the early morning is a popular and entertaining way to see the sights. In the summer canoeing and rafting down the encircling river is also widely enjoyed.

In the town of Ponesice I visited the local distillery, which makes fruit liqueurs and spirits (Slivovitz). The award-winning Walnut Liqueur is worth the visit. First shot free, others a dollar. I spent a few.

Heading back towards Prague, I stopped in the historic town of Pisek, which has the oldest stone bridge in the Czech Republic.

When You Go:

There are a number of housing and dining options from country inns and local eateries to world-class hotels and restaurants. Every hotel I stayed in had free Internet service. In Prague at the Holiday Inn outside the city and the modern designer hotel Andel’s in the city

I had delicious chewy potato pancakes and a huge roasted pork leg at U Provaznice, a traditional restaurant on a side ally in the city ($12). I also dined on Matylda, one of the elegant riverboats.

In Loket I had lunch at Cisar Ferdinand, a local restaurant that served huge portions at reasonable prices (a recurring theme). In Karlovy Vary I stayed at the Hotel Resort Sanssousi and Hotel Imperial. In Plzen I ate at the Brewery restaurant Na Spilce, a large underground dining hall converted from a fermentation cellar, and stayed at the Hotel Angelo Pilsen. In Cesky Krumlov I dinned at the historic Hotel Ruze and stayed at the Old Inn. In Pisek at the Hotel Biograf.

For brochures, housing, spa and restaurant information and lists of events and festivals, contact the Czech Tourist Office in New York, 212-288-0830, ext. 101, in******@**********sm.com. Website: www.czechtourism.com

Czech please!

Orinially published in 2017.

The post Czeching Out A Bohemian Rhapsody appeared first on Traveling Boy.

October draws to a close with a melancholy air. Days are colder, dead leaves flutter to the ground after a last burst of color, before finally drifting away to be tossed by the winds in all directions. Something about this image that inspires vintage, romantic songs like “Autumn Leaves”… and brings memories of a Love, once held close.

How fitting therefore that the world we know, lets go of October with a celebration of the spirit gone into another realm. In many western worlds, they call it Halloween. Adults dress up like ghosts, zombies, etc. and go about trying to scare each other. Later, though, as an influence of Christianity, the affair has graduated to a more convivial , fun thing. It has become like a children’s costume party with lots of angels, demons, princesses, pirates, cowboys, fairy tale characters, witches, etc. Candies and chocolates greet those who come to the door of houses decorated with lighted pumpkins. “Trick or Treat!”

But in the Philippines, there is the tradition of “All Saints Day” (Todos los Santos or “Undas”) which is a way of remembering dead loved ones by prayers, bringing flowers, and lighting candles at their grave. This custom of going to where loved ones are laid to rest, is a hold-over from the Philippine history of being under Spanish rule hundreds of years ago. In Latin American countries, they call this custom, “Dia de los Muertos,” or Day of the Dead. But again, as in the celebration of Halloween, the solemnity of the day of the dead has become a fiesta of sorts.

People still go to cemeteries primarily to visit the graves of loved ones. But over population has turned cemeteries into cities of the living, for at least a day or two. Grave yards are invaded with bright lights, music blaring from boom boxes, food vendors, balloons, relatives and friends turning the visits into private parties. Nothing wrong with this, as long as you do not disturb others around you. People must honor their dead in their own way. I don’t think the dead mind.

Above (photo) the din of celebration, the underlying theme of recalling those who have gone ahead, has endured. This is what makes Todos los Santos a significant part of the Philippine culture. That no matter how busy the lives of people, Filipino tradition takes time to pause and set aside a day for remembrance. It is said that no one is really gone for good, if those left behind continue to think of them. In the Broadway play of “Les Miserables” there is a beautiful song that expresses this yearning for those who have journeyed ahead:

“There’s a grief that can’t be spoken
There’s a pain goes on and on
Empty chairs at empty tables
Now my friends are dead and gone…”

Relationships continue beyond death like love waves reaching out, holding on to each other through the mystical distance. In Corinthians 13, it says, “Love endures.” So, in a practical sense, this day of remembering is a way for the living to cope with the reality that life on earth ends, to continue to another level of forever. It helps to see that you are not alone in facing this reality. The idea of Dias de los Muertos is to see others, thousands of others, who feel what you feel. Above all, it strengthens the belief that there is an after-life. For how can you stand facing the pain of missing someone, if there is not the reassurance that “someday in heaven, we will meet again?” The candle you light represents that faith, your hopes, your trust in that faith. When you truly believe that there is a God and a heaven above, you can cope with the left-over sadness of a good bye. There is always a morning that awaits you…beyond the evening of Dia de los Muertos.

Interesting Factoid

In a cemetery in Malabon, Philippines, is an infamous tomb that displays a statue of Satan standing above St. Michael. Many people wanted to tear it down but this ominous edifice was erected at the request of Don Simeon Bernardo, the man who was buried there, in 1934. In order to appease the neighborhood that lived in fear of this demonic presence, the townsfolk decided to enclose the characters in a steel cage somewhere around 1970.

There is a blog in Tumblr.com called Philippine Urban Legends that gets into this in more detail.

click on image for enlargement

Orinially published in 2009.

The post The Day of the Dead: All Saints Day – Dia de los Muertos appeared first on Traveling Boy.

My daughter and I were totally enthralled by the quiet but dramatic beauty of Gardenstown and its nearby neighbour, Crovie. Both villages clung tightly to the steep cliffs of Gamrie Bay. In fact the local name for Gardenstown is Gamrie.

Like so many of Scotland’s ports and harbours there is a lot of history there. Founded by Alexander Garden in 1790 as a fishing village, it was once home to a busy salmon and herring fleet. A hundred years ago the harbour sheltered a fishing fleet of over 90 boats. But as boats increased in size to become financially viable, small Gardenstown lost most of its fleet to larger centers like Fraserburgh.

The picturesque village of Crovie lies on the far side of the bay. It is connected to Gamrie by a charming small coastal foot path easily walkable at high tide. If possible, Crovie is even more charming and photographic as it nestles between the sea and the green cliffs. Its like being in another world. Quiet and impressive hugging the sea and 500-foot-high cliffs with terraced ledges above. So many pictures to take.

This area is quiet and not at all overrun with tourists. Another nearby village also attached to a narrow strip along the sea is Pennan. This town was used as the backdrop in one of my favourite movies, “Local Hero”. These small villages definitely have an “off the beaten path” experience combined with a rich fishing culture and fascinating history. Not to mention their natural beauty and the wonderful sea air.

Other fishing villages along the Aberdeen coast have wonderful names like Lossiemouth, Cullen, Elie and Portknockie. All are different and worth exploring. There is so much to do in the area, and we capped one day with a fantastic tour of the Museum of Scottish Lighthouses in Fraserburgh. There we learned what a “wickie” really is. If you are ever questioned, it is a lighthouse keeper’s assistant who was responsible for trimming the wicks for the light.

There are also great beaches, interesting distilleries to tour and some spectacular coastal hiking paths like the Fife Coastal Path.

We stayed in an AirBnB in town facing the harbour but there are also charming cottages and glamping pods- basically one-bedroom huts – also available for rent. These small historic towns are a hidden gem well off of the tourist routes that should be included in any tour of Scotland.

The post Stunning Scottish Fishing Villages appeared first on Traveling Boy.

Svalbard, Norway – Wildlife

As late as 1990 there was virtually no tourism to the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard. Located between the Norwegian mainland and the North Pole, Svalbard was first the place for explorers, then whalers and coal miners. But thanks to companies like Hurtigruten – the Norwegian Coastal Voyage, it is now on the tourist map for the whole world to see. My adventure began aboard the coastal steamer MS Nordstjernen from Longyearbyen – the most northern city in the world. Heading northwest, I experienced breathtaking fjords, calving glaciers, unique animal and plant life, and a midnight sun that refused to go down. Over 60% of the archipelago consists of national parks, nature reserves, and bird or plant sanctuaries. Only four land mammals can survive on this barren tundra: the Svalbard reindeer, the Arctic fox, the Svalbard mouse and the polar bear – which has become the very symbol of Svalbard. The largest living land carnivore, they are considered the only animal that actively hunts humans. Actual encounters with this mighty species are rare, but their presence is felt all around. Visitors cannot leave settlements without a weapon or armed guide, and instructions are given on what to do with an unexpected encounter. From the deck of the vessel, I spotted a mother and her cub sleeping on an iceberg. After a couple of restless nights of my own, I would have liked to have asked them how they managed to sleep through the midnight sun.

Tahiti & Her Islands – Cuisine

The first thing you notice is the fragrance. The intoxicating perfume of the tiara flower announces to your senses that you are in a tropical world, overflowing with island vegetation and soothing trade winds. Indigenous Tahitian cuisine features what’s available from the land and sea. With such a plethora of fresh fruit and fish, it is virtually impossible to starve on the islands. Due to presence of the French (Tahiti is part of French Polynesia) there is a delectable hybrid of French and Polynesian creations. Coconut milk and vanilla – much stronger than the vanilla found in Mexico – are incorporated in many of the dishes. Poisson Cru, tuna cured in lime juice with chopped green onions, cucumbers and tomatoes; and Fife, a chicken stew with spinach-like taro leaves are among my favorites. The taro root (more flavorful than Hawaiian poi) is boiled like potatoes and not pounded. Breadfruit, sweet potatoes, and plantains also offer typical island starch fare. Mangoes, bananas, watermelon, pineapple, papaya, guava, sour sop and pummelo are in abundance. From the lagoons come parrotfish, perch, and mullet; from the open sea the freshest of tuna, bonito, Wahoo, scad and mahi mahi. For an insightful overview of these gastronomic delights, visit the main market in downtown Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia. Bon appétit!

Corfu, Greece – Literature

In Homer’s epic poem, the Odyssey, the mythical Greek character Odysseus builds a raft and attempts to return to his home island of Ithaca. But Odysseus’ enemy, Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea, unleashes a storm and the raft is destroyed. Half-drowned, Odysseus washes ashore on the island of Corfu. He staggers into an olive grove and collapses. My arrival on Corfu was a slightly different experience. Poseidon must have been smiling for the seas were calm and shimmering. And my mode of transportation was the 360 feet long luxury sailing vessel the, Star Clipper – but my thoughts were colored by Homer in preparation for my arrival. In the story, Odysseus is found by a local family who nurse him back to health. Soon he tells the family of his 20-year odyssey, which began with his departure for the Trojan War. Homer, a traveling blind minstrel, articulates the narrative orally in “heroic hexameter” – known as a form of meter in poetry or rhythmic scheme. His approach to the story is considered by many a landmark in literature as the first-time most of a story is told in flashback. Today, odyssey means ‘an extended adventurous voyage or spiritual quest.’ I’ve often wondered how Odysseus was pronounced in Greek. So with a look of a surprise when the question was proposed to a local resident, I was told, ‘O-da-Say-us,’ of course!”

Venice – Romance

Arriving in Venice on a sweltering summer morning is similar to negotiating Disneyland on opening day. Hordes of day-tripping tourists pour into the city in search of Venice’s seemingly endless attractions that include San Marco, the Rialto Bridge, the Bridge of Sighs, Doge’s Palace, fish market, various boat excursions on the Grand Canal, and a sampling of Venice’s famed seafood and risotto. With a dwindling population of 90,570 designated as permanent ‘lagoon city’ residents, it has been said that every door in Venice now leads to a shop. But who was I to complain – after all, I was a tourist too, and Venice now belongs to the world. For many, the centerpiece of a trip to Venice is taking a gondola ride on one of its many canals. It is touristic, can be expensive and you’ll find a plethora of hungry gondoliers anxious to take you on a short trip. My advice is to wait until the sun goes down, when most tourists have left the island, and taking a gondola ride on the quiet, back canals, avoiding bumper to bumper gondolas during the daytime. Riding on canals in less touristic areas allows you see a different perspective of the city. The best way to do it is to walk a few blocks off the Grand Canal and look for a gondolier who is anxious to please. At that point, you can choose what neighborhood you want to explore. A standard gondola ride is 40 minutes – and yes, to my surprise, it was romantic. The gondolier even honored my request to refrain from singing as he gently maneuvered the gondola through Venice’s  back canals.

The post An Escape to Five Island Destinations appeared first on Traveling Boy.

In a warm July afternoon in 2013 following a 32-hour flight, Thomas Lee, a prominent Southern California dentist, and his wife Lita, first set foot in Kigali, the capital city of Rwanda, a landlocked country in central-east Africa with a populace in great need. The couple were beginning a passionate, heartfelt mission along with the Lees’ 17-year-old son Nathan, five medical doctors, a nurse, pharmacist, four support staff, and the Lee’s pastor and his wife.

The Lee’s were greatly aware, as is the world, of Rwanda’s appalling past. In 1994 a government-sponsored genocide unfolded during which an estimated 800,000-plus ethnic Tutsis and moderate Hutus were killed by dominant Hutu forces, and some 300,000 children were left orphaned.

The Lees’ first impressions of Kigali were of having been propelled backward fifty years in time. They observed vast throngs of people moving about on the streets, many clutching yellow plastic water buckets, deftly evading swarms of chaotic motor scooters negotiating for space, while a thick blanket of gray clouds combined with a choking haze of dust and gas fumes covered the landscape.

Working tirelessly on the comeback trail from its horrendous past, the Republic of Rwanda, bordered by Uganda, Tanzania, Burundi and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, is among the smallest countries on the African mainland, and slightly smaller than the state of Maryland. With few natural resources, the country’s economy is overwhelmingly based on subsistence agriculture. Coffee and tea lead the major exports.

Rwanda’s stunning landscape

Rwanda boasts one of the highest population densities on the continent, and yet the average life expectancy of men there is just 54 years. The country lacks a concrete social and medical infrastructure for the disadvantaged, which unquestionably contributes to the low life expectancy and was one of the factors that drew the Lees to Rwanda.

The faces of Rwanda’s future

The Lees were discussing a much-needed vacation from their busy and demanding “Leading Edge” dental office in Granada Hills, California. The office, designed by personable Dr. Lee, an avid jazz aficionado and University of California Berkeley alumni, is reminiscent of a boutique art gallery with rare photos of jazz musicians and posters decorating the walls, along with some striking images of Rwanda.

Following a long work day and with jazz playing in the background Lee remembers that “it was my 50th birth year, and our 25th wedding anniversary and I was discussing with Lita places to visit–possibly someplace we’ve never been, do something off the chart, set aside two weeks and climb Kilimanjaro, or go on a safari. Then in January, 2013, on an unforgettable Sunday at church our lives were forever touched when we listened to the testimony of Rwandan, Jean Claude Rwagasore, and his incredible survival of the genocide as a 12-year-old-orphan.”

Dr. Lee kneels in prayer with a young Rwandan boy

After a long pause Lee continues, “Jean Claude, now an esteemed Rwandan attorney and Director of Best Family, shared his life story about how he and three young orphan boys the same age came together on the streets to share and survive. Quickly the orphan group became eight and rapidly expanded, eventually becoming the starting point of Best Family Rwanda” A stirring power today, Best Family Rwanda is a ministry dedicated to making Jesus known to the orphaned children in Rwanda through holistic development.

“Incredibly, during this time,” Lee explains, “another orphan came to Jean Claude and Best Family pleading for help and was warmly accepted, though during the height of the genocide, while Jean Claude hid in a closet, he watched the orphan’s father murder Jean Claude’s father and sister; his mother was lost in the chaos on the streets.”

“After all this,” Dr. Lee said, “I quickly put aside the safari, Kilimanjaro and all the rest, and realized I needed to do something for those in need of help. I was struggling to ask Lita if she would like to go to Africa, and to my surprise she mentioned it first.”

Dr. Lee begins his work as curious Rwandan children look on

Dr. Lee said that he had no clear ideas about Rwanda, but it was like God was speaking to both him and his wife, a strong voice from above calling out, and it was at that moment their hearts were moved to travel half-way around the world to Africa to serve at an orphanage and share the dental expertise Dr. Lee had to offer.

Dr. Lee and his small dental staff

“We prayed, and decided with great fervor that Rwanda would be our personal mission. My 50th birth year and celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary would take place in Rwanda. I felt this is what I was created for: to help the children of Africa.

Dr. Lee performs a procedure on a stricken Rwandan woman

Another confirmation took place when a church member at the Garden Christian Fellowship in Chatsworth asked us if we would be interested in a mission to Africa treating orphans.”

On that memorable first trip to Rwanda, after a prayer breakfast, Dr. Lee, along with his team, set up his portable dental chair, surgical light and equipment, and organized a clinic in Kigali’s Nyarugunga sector. They connected with a pastor who is providing education and Christian training at his small school for poor children who were roaming the streets aimlessly, had no money for public school, and were in great need. Moving to the Gasharu sector working with Best Family, Dr. Lee treated widows and victims of the genocide.

During that first two-week mission the Lees were floored to see hundreds of people, many with throbbing pain in their mouths, patiently waiting for help. In Gisenyi, close to the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo, the team set-up in the Noel Orphanage which houses some 800 children. The staff were so lacking in help that they asked some of the team members to hold small children ages six months to one year for 15-minutes in order for the children to experience meaningful human contact. Regardless of the ongoing difficulties, the Lees found the people to be calm, a smile on their face, quietly waiting in line, exceedingly polite, soft-spoken, and considering their history, cheerful.

“I was seeing about twenty patients a day, and despite the long days, if someone is in bad shape I can’t just let them walk away. A young man was in great pain suffering with an infected wisdom tooth that was impacted sideways in the gums. It took almost two-hours to extract, but it was a great feeling to see a smile on his face.

“At the tail end of the last day I noticed a lady in her mid-20s, the left side of her face badly swollen, with a high fever, and breast-feeding a two-year old baby. I removed two badly infected teeth and administered antibiotics. If I hadn’t been there for her she would have died. She had nothing to eat in three days and was in appalling shape. It was an incredible feeling to know that I saved someone’s life. With only 28 dentists in the entire country and with the average wage two dollars a day, and the charge for a filling $40, dental care for most Rwandans is out of the question.”

July 2016 will see the Lees’ third mission to Rwanda. Together with the medical team, they will be providing medical and dental treatment, holding a soccer camp for the children, teaching Bible-based lessons, and scouting for a location to set up a community dental clinic in a few years, which will be dedicated to providing free dental treatment for the orphans, vulnerable children and widows.

“Regrettably, sodas and candy are a special treat in Rwanda,” Dr. Lee said, “Therefore the country is badly in need of preventive education. My goal is to find bright students and send them to dental school to set up dental clinics and establish a dental center to train dentists,” Broadly smiling, “For me, all of this is imprinting in Rwanda the footprints of God. I will be striving to heal and bless the children though gospel-centered health care ministry. This is my calling.”

While the Genocide is forever a concern, the other side of Rwanda, seen through the far-reaching eyes of tourism, is a land of steep mountains, deep valleys, and numerous lakes, and is home to elephants, giraffes, hippos, zebras, leopards, and friendly people. The country is a noted destination for those who covet the opportunity to catch a glimpse of the rare mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park in the far northwest of the country. The gorillas somehow survived the war-torn period though other animals were not so lucky.

With Christianity the largest religion, and official languages English, French and Rwanda’s melodic Kinyariwanda, Rwanda offers an opportunity for those planning a holiday to make very special memories. Dr. Lee and Lita, who have yet to see the gorillas, have found their calling there and feel enormously blessed.

Dr. and Mrs. Lee with the children of Rwanda, each holding a toothbrush kit

His Hands On Africa

The Lee’s through the newly established non-profit organization, His Hands on Africa, are working towards providing scholarships to dental schools, build free community dental clinics, establish a superlative dental center to provide dental care and training for young dentists who will be future leaders in Rwanda, and eventually send out these dentists to other African countries in need of help. For more information on how you can help the children of Rwanda please go to, www.hishandsonafrica.org

This article was originally published in 20013.

The post Mission Rwanda appeared first on Traveling Boy.

There was not a hint of litter on the street. Mexican children frolicked on the beach. Los Pacenos (La Paz natives) offered gentle smiles as they jogged past me along the Malecón – La Paz’s bay-front boardwalk that stretches along the historic downtown. It was hard to take it all in with the sun setting on the glimmering Sea of Cortez, which Jacques Cousteau christened “the world’s aquarium,” with one of the planet’s most abundant ecosystems.

I had it all wrong. US Government warnings have repeatedly alerted us to watch our backs in Mexico. Yet La Paz (“The Peace”) experiences only a fraction of the robbery, rape, assault and murder found in most US cities, according to the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime. With ten universities, statistics also indicate that it is the most educated and affluent city per capita in all of Mexico.

Once a sleepy fishing village nestled along the protected waters of Southeast Baja Sur, La Paz was put on the radar when immortalized by John Steinbeck in his novella, “The Pearl” in 1947. Sportspeople journeyed from around the globe for the deep sea bounty of marlin, Dorado, roosterfish and yellowtail. This component of tourism is still very much alive today, and so are snorkeling, scuba diving, kayaking, and eco-tours. For lovers of sea life, it is the dream of all dreams.

The UNESCO-protected site, Isla Espiritu Santo, features 32 species of reptiles and 89 species of birds.

A day-long boat tour with Fun Baja was an experience that I will never forget. The day was spent snorkeling with sea lions and whales, just off Isla Espiritu Santo, followed by a catered picnic lunch of local seafood at Espiritu Santo Beach.

After an afternoon of kayaking and swimming, the boat tour continued for a look at native bird estuaries and historical attractions.

Despite the fact that La Paz is the capital city of Baja California Sur with a population of 220,000 it still maintains the charm of ‘Old Mexico,’ with quaint shops, museums, galleries, markets and restaurants serving indigenous food. But if you want action, there’s a dazzling nightlife with cafes, clubs and bars. Plus if you desire to take it to a higher party level, Los Cabos on the southern-most tip of Baja Sur, is just a scenic two-hour drive away.

I think, though, what I liked best was the openness and gentle spirit of the Los Pacenos. They seem genuinely happy you’re enjoying their city and seeing why they have chosen to live in La Paz.

What to Eat

The Baja is the birthplace of the fish taco, served with the above mentioned fresh seafood caught that very day by local boats. The chocolate clam gets its name from the shell’s brown color, and is eaten alive with a twist of lime. If the clam doesn’t flinch after a lime twist, it’s best to move on to the next one on your plate. Another treat is the ‘hotdogueros,’ a La Paz hot dog, wrapped in bacon and topped with grilled onions, jalapeno ketchup and peppers. This should be all washed down with a Baja-style cerveza – beer on ice with lime juice and a salt rimmed glass. The beer of choice? Baja California’s own Tecate.

Where I Stayed

CostaBaja Resort & Spa redefines luxury. The centerpiece of the 550-acre CostaBaja development, it is the first 5-star resort in La Paz. The resort is just ten minutes from downtown, set on the Sea of Cortez overlooking a 250-slip double-basin marina and a white sand beach. What was I doing there? The 115-room hotel offers a selection of ocean, mountain, marina and golf course views. Yes, golf course views.

Mexico’s only Gary Player-designed 18 hole golf course meanders from hilltops to sea level with stunning water views just steps from the resort. Built into the landscape, as opposed to the opposite, this very ‘green’ course only utilizes desalinated water. The resort is also home to Steinbeck´s restaurant, and the first spa in La Paz, which features locally-inspired treatments. A dip in one of the three luxurious pools is not a bad way to end a day of activities.

Retirees and Real Estate

By 2020 as many as two million foreign retirees will make Mexico their home, according to the Mexican Federal Tourism Ministry. CNN Money Magazine and the New York Times recently named La Paz one of the top ten places in the world to retire. Mainland Mexicans, Canadian and US tourist are visiting La Paz in droves, then buying second homes or becoming full-time residents. For American retirees, a Yankee pension goes a long way in Mexico. Come to think of it, maybe I should consider retiring there, too.

This article was originally published on 2009

The post Finding Peace in La Paz –The World’s Aquarium on Mexico’s Sea of Cortez appeared first on Traveling Boy.

It was April in Flanders, the Dutch-speaking northern area of Belgium, and two weeks of cold and rain suddenly came to an end. Warm skies dried the soaked fields, drawing daffodils, narcissus and poppies from the ground, birdsong filled the air and the university students and general population of Ghent, Bruges and Leuven flocked to the riverbanks and city parks to bake in the warm air and enjoy Belgium’s favorite product — not chocolate, waffles, sprouts nor fries, but beer.

First warm spring day brings out the city of Bruges

More than 800 types are produced in Belgium, most served in their own beer glass shape, from fruit flavored lambics, to high-alcohol Trappist ales and hoppy lagers like Stella Artois, whose parent company just purchased Anheuser-Busch, becoming the world’s largest brewer. Belgium doesn’t have the soil to produce good wine, but who needs dirt when you’ve got the world’s best beer.

Chocolate is a close second in consumption, and there are more than 2,200 shops in Belgium. I visited as many as I could. I also have a fondness for waffles and fries (called “frites” in French), but brussels sprouts, not so much.

Bruges is about an hour train ride northwest of Brussels, lying near the North Sea. It is a beautifully preserved, cobblestoned medieval town of about 120 thousand, where 3 million tourists converge every year

The crowded streets of the beautiful medieval Flemish city of Bruges

The city has the feel of a film set and became a main character of the film “In Bruges.” Now it is even more of a travel destination, crowds are abundant and can cause claustrophobia in the summer. It is the most visited medieval city in Europe.

Steven Spielberg and Peter Jackson collaborated on three animated 3-D movies featuring Belgium’s favorite comic strip, adventuresome boy reporter Tintin which was released on December 2011. The film took advantage of photogenic Belgium during filming. The Tintin Shop, 3 Streenstraat, stocks every imaginable related item.

You might also be familiar with the Smurfs, another Belgian creation, and Smurf shops are abundant throughout Belgium.

Navigable concentric canals give Bruges the nickname “Venice of the North.” Take the 30-minute boat cruise to get a real feel for the town. The horse-drawn carriage rides take you on a street tour and are very popular.

Canals of Bruges earn it the nickname “Venice of the North”

The main market, or “Markt,” is dominated by the 259-foot belfry, whose 47-bell carillon entertains every half-hour during the day. If you are hale and hearty, you can climb the 366 steps to the observation area for a grand view of the city. If you prefer to stay on the ground, in its shadow on the right lies the best Belgium “frites” shack in town. Try them with the garlic mayonnaise (2.5 Euros).

Don’t miss the Friet Museum for the history of Belgian fries and nearby is the Choco-Story chocolate museum, both under the same management.

The best chocolate shops I savored in Belgium are Chocolate Line in Bruges, which has experimental chef Dominique Persoone creating new masterpieces for international competitions. Daskalides of Ghent, Pierre Marcolini and Wittamer in Brussels and Raets-Putseys in Leuven are also artisan Belgian chocolate-makers of great skill and worth a visit.

Dominique Persoone

When you are thirsty, try the oldest bar in Bruges, De Garre, hidden in a narrow — only wide enough for two people to pass — cul-de-sac between the Markt and Burg squares. Ask for the house beer, the best in all of Belgium according to many aficionados, made exclusively for this pub and available nowhere else. Open since 1856, De Halve Maan brewery provides tours and a glass of beer in the tasting room.

Lying halfway between Bruges and Brussels, Ghent is a university town with a population of 230,000 and 60,000 students, most of whom descended to the riverbank of the Leie and enjoyed the warm spring weather and the local beer favored by students, Jupiler. It was in Ghent that I discovered my favorite Belgian beer Orval, a full-flavored Trappist ale with a hoppy finish.

Students mass along the banks of the River Leie to enjoy the
first warm day of spring in Ghent

A new brewery, the first since 1976, opened while we were visiting. Gruut will produce five types of beer that will be available in the United States. I took the tour and sampled the beer. They’ll do well.

For sustenance, visit Butcher’s Hall, or “Groot Vleeshuis” in Dutch, and try the air-dried ham, sausages and cheeses. If you need a little mustard for your meat, sample some of the 30 different varieties prepared by Tierenteijn-Verlent, 3 groentenmarkt, founded in 1790. Best cheese market was Petite Normandie and don’t miss the Vismarkt to see the daily catch on sale.

Belgium’s most prestigious university town is Leuven, pop. 90,000. Lying nine miles east of Brussels, the lively student population of 30,000 supports a number of clubs and bars, mostly situated around the city square, and there are a number of warm and inexpensive bistros and restaurants that feed them.

Most of the city was burned by the Germans in World War I, but it has been restored and some medieval areas have been preserved as university housing.

It is also the home of Stella Artois beer, and tours in English are given regularly. The 10 Euro fee includes two glasses of beer and a beer cookbook.

If You Go:

Family run Chez Leon in the heart of Brussels famous restaurant lane, on the cobblestone walking street Rue des Bouchers, is known for its mussels and fries, the national dish of Belgium. The restaurant had hosted Hilary Clinton and TV travel writer Burt Wolf just days before moi; but they didn’t ask for my signed photo to place on the wall of fame.

Cantillon Brewery in Brussels produces the traditional sour lambic fruit beers and gives tours and tastings. De Bier Temple had 600 beers and 300 glasses on its shelves in Bruges and nearby Bierbrasserie Cambrinus featured 400 beers and 325 glasses. Choices, choices.

Some memorable restaurants where I dined in Flanders included three Michelin-starred restaurants; the chic one-star Belga Queen in Brussels, two-star Comme Chez Soi in Brussels, where I dined at the chefs table in the kitchen, and in Bruges at the three-star De Karmeliet. Den Dyver restaurant in Bruges features dishes made with beer sauces. Patrick Devos in Bruges brought us into his kitchen for a cooking lesson. In Leuven Tres Luxe is a chic restaurant with an experimental young chef and Pakhuis in Ghent has a high-vibe industrial feel.

The Tourist Office of Flanders in New York (www.visitflanders.us; 212-584-2336) publishes a number of free pamphlets and maps, information on special events, festivals, museums, self-guided tours, and places to stay, from hostels to five-star hotels. I stayed at the Dominican in Brussels, the Marriott in Ghent and the Kempinsky Hotel, former residence of the Duke of Burgundy, in Bruges.

This article was originally published in 2008

The post In Flanders Fields appeared first on Traveling Boy.