They left in droves for the new worlds, some to North America, others to Australia and New Zealand. They were the Irish poor, fleeing from famine-ridden Ireland where only the English had enough to eat.

From 1848 to 1950, over 6 million adults and children emigrated from Ireland, more than a third departing from Cobh (pronounced “Cove”), Queenstown under British rule, in County Cork. The story of this exodus is detailed in “Cobh, The Queenstown Story,” a multi-media exhibit presented at the Cobh Heritage Center.

The Center is located in a beautifully restored Victorian railway station and offers visitors a fascinating introduction to the history of this charming small town and its harbor on the southern coast of Ireland’s County Cork.

The story is told with dramatic detail and panoramas – with sound – of life aboard the ships sailing to a better life. The ships were crowded, sometimes desperately so for the poorer passengers, who often spent the passage in squalor below decks.

Panorama of emigrants on shipboard, Cobh Heritage Center.

Not all emigrants left because of the failure of the potato crop, which resulted in one and a half million emigrants between 1845 and 1851. While the exodus was largely the result of poverty and crop failure, other causes were the land system and poverty of opportunity.

The exhibit further tells the story of the convicts deported from Ireland under horrendous conditions akin to those of the slave ships. The first convict ship to travel directly from Ireland to Australia sailed in 1791 and carried 159 prisoners. Between 1791 and 1853, 30,000 men and 9,000 women were deported from Ireland for crimes ranging from petty theft to murder.

The Center has additional exhibits devoted to the Titanic, which called at the port of Queenstown on its fatal 1912 voyage to America, and the Lusitania, whose survivors were ferried to Queenstown after the ship was torpedoed by a German submarine in 1915 about 10 miles off the port of Kinsale.

123 passengers embarked the Titanic at Queenstown, 113 in steerage. The 151 dead from the Lusitania were buried in mass graves in the Old Church cemetery, just north of Cobh.

The Center offers a genealogical search survey for visitors interested in tracing their Irish ancestry. There are a restaurant and several shops, including the ubiquitous place to buy gifts and souvenirs.

The Great Famine exhibit in the Skibbereen Heritage Center in West Cork – located in the Old Gasworks building – offers a fascinating glimpse into the effects of the failure of the potato crop. In 1841, the population of Ireland was 8.5 million people. Nine years later, more than 1 million had starved or otherwise died in terrible conditions. Another million had emigrated.

Part of Great Famine Exhibit, Skibbereen Heritage Center.

Skibbereen was one of the worst affected areas in all of Ireland. Newspaper accounts, shown in the exhibition, describe the dreadful conditions of the time. Between eight and ten thousand unidentified men, women and children are buried in the famine burial graves across the River Ilen from the Heritage Center. Throughout the exhibit, audio-visual accounts lend a graphic portrait of the times and the suffering of the Irish.

Today, Skibbereen is an attractive small town with a lively weekly market, some good restaurants and an array of shops on its “high,” or main street.

Residents of Kinsale could see the Lusitania as it sank. Kinsale, once a fishing village, has been transformed into a tourist destination, a “foodie hub” where each October a four-day gourmet festival takes place.

It remains a lovely small town with brightly painted houses, window boxes bursting with color on hundreds of windows, dozens of art galleries and craft shops, a regional museum housed in the old Market House (built in 1600), and a 17th century fort located at the head of the harbor. The town boasts one of the best restaurants in Ireland: if you can’t get a reservation at Fishy Fishy Café, try the Blue Haven Inn, which has a fine kitchen, old fashioned atmosphere, excellent seafood and a first class wine list.

Kinsale.

Kinsale has its castle too. Desmond Castle, built around the year 1500 by the Earl of Desmond, served originally as the Kinsale Customs House. It was used by the British during the American Revolution as a prison for captured American sailors, and during the mid-18th century, it housed French prisoners. During the years of the great famine, the castle became a workhouse for starving families. Today, it’s home to the International Museum of Wine. An exhibition in the museum traces the story of Ireland’s wine links to France and the rest of the wine producing world.

There are castles scattered throughout County Cork, as elsewhere in Ireland, from those like the restored Dun na Sead castle in Baltimore now occupied by a family, to the legendary Blarney Castle.

The heart of County Cork is Cork City, the Republic of Ireland’s second city and a smaller version of Dublin. Downtown Cork City offers locals and visitors alike versions of the department stores found in Dublin. In the center of town is the marvelous English Market, a gourmet hub selling fresh produce, meats, cheeses – including hard to find Cashel blue, Ardrahan and Gubbeen – bakery goods, wines and an assortment of Irish food, such as drisheen (blood pudding), crubeen (pigs’ feet) and barmbrack (a fruit and spice bread). Upstairs in a gallery above the market, a tearoom serves sandwiches, cakes and light dishes are served. The market dates from James 1st in 1610, although the present building opened in 1788, restored in the early 1980s.

On a hill overlooking Cork City’s center, St. Anne’s Church is famous for its chiming bells and red and white color scheme created by the use of red sandstone and white limestone. Whenever a member of the McOsterich family, who were responsible for the design and erection of the bell tower, marries anywhere in the world, the bells ring out in honor of the wedding. On top of the bell tower is a weather vane in the form of a salmon representing the fish in the River Lee that flows through the city.

The tower is adorned with a four-faced clock, known by Corkonians as “the four-faced liar” because the time on each face is slightly different during the hour. Because the numbers on the faces of the clock are made of gilded wood, some of the pieces of wood are thicker than others and some hands stick as they go through the hour. But all come together on the hour.

Cork’s Butter Museum stands in a small square near St. Anne’s Church and tells the story of the Cork butter trade. Cork was once the largest butter trading market in the world, and the museum’s exhibition traces both the historic and current dairy culture in Ireland. The exhibition includes traditional and modern butter-making paraphernalia.

Butter churns, Cork Butter Musseum.

On the coast road, about 30 miles from Cork City, is the picturesque village of Timoleague, which hosts a lively festival each August. The ten-day festival includes live street music, pig racing, and competitions for the best costumes.

The village is dominated by the ruins of an ancient abbey, founded by the Franciscan order in 1240 A.D. The monks were dispersed by the Reformation, but returned at the beginning of the 17th century and remained until 1629. The abbey was sacked by British soldiers in 1612, but much of the architecture remains. It’s a romantic ruin perched at the edge of a sea inlet.

Timoleague Abbey ruins.

The verdant countryside of County Cork is typical of southern Ireland: gently rolling pastures of green, green grass, peacefully grazing cows and sheep, richly wooded hills, old stone walls, ruined castles and ancient graves, pretty villages with many a pub, startling views of the sea and remnants of the Celts of yore. Elegant manor houses, some now transformed into small hotels or restaurants, are scattered throughout.

Not far from the village of Rosscarbery, which grew up around a monastery established in the sixth century, is the Dromberg stone circle, a ring of 13 standing stones, considered the finest megalithic stone circle in County Cork. The circle dates from 153 B.C. and is located on a clearing with a beautiful view down towards the sea. West of the circle are the remnants of two huts and a cooking place.

Dromberg stone circle.

Drive out to dramatic Mizen Head, the southwestern point of the Irish mainland, where the lands falls into the sea. A new suspension bridge was opened this past summer to replace the rickety old one leading across a chasm to the old signal station.

Mizen Head.

From the top of the cliff, a visitor sees the Atlantic Ocean break in roiling water and foam over the rocks. Sometimes seals, whales or dolphins come out to play in the sea. Seabirds cover the rocks in great profusion.

An Irish cottage by the sea.

There’s nothing but the Atlantic between Mizen Head and America, beckoning from 3,000 miles away. It’s not hard to imagine the sadness in the hearts of those emigrants from Queenstown as they glanced back at their beautiful green homeland, knowing that, in all likelihood, they would never see it again.

If You Go

Several airlines serve Dublin from the U.S. Aer Lingus is the Irish line, but I recommend Delta, which has particularly courteous and helpful personnel and serves meals across the Atlantic that are actually good enough to eat.

For information on Ireland, contact the Irish Tourist Board at www.discoverireland.com.

If you rent a car, request a small car as Irish roads are not as wide as American roads and country roads, especially unpaved ones, are very narrow. Also, remember to rent an automatic, as opposed to a manual, which requires shifting gears with your left hand.

This article was originally published in 2017.

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I flew into Santiago, Chile in early March for the wine harvest in one of the world’s great wine producing regions. The day I arrived was also the night of the total lunar eclipse.

That evening we watched the earth’s shadow swallow the moon in the private observatory above the Santa Cruz Vineyards, while swallowing Cabernet Sauvignon and warming ourselves by the tasting room fire. It gets chilly in the Chilean foothills of the Andes at night, a quality, according to wine writer Kevin Zraly, that makes the wines rival those of Bordeaux and Napa Valley.

Chile is a pastoral country whose serpentine body of 4,200 miles hugs the western coast of South America, beginning at the Peruvian and Bolivian borders. Its volcanic spine rests against Argentina and follows the Andes all the way down to Tierra del Fuego at the bottom tip of South America.

Never more than 200 miles wide, the diverse climate and relatively small population (16 million, 80 percent of whom live in urban environments) has preserved a rich farmland resting between the mountains and the sea.

The land produces a wide range of crops and the sea’s bounty includes Chilean sea bass, salmon, shrimp and other shellfish. However they have no fossil fuel deposits so all the oil products are imported and gasoline prices are high, about $6 a gallon.

Santiago is a bustling modern capital of six million. The commercial success of Chile, based on its mining, fishing and agricultural industries and its citizen’s devotion to hard work, has created one of the richest economies in South America. Most work six day weeks and unlike Spain and other Central and South American countries, they do not take siestas.

It is also a safe and clean country. Chileans frown on littering and are very honest. On several occasions cab drivers and merchants corrected my change when I overpaid. And there are great bargains to be had, especially if you shop at ferias, collections of artisan shops, and the currency is easy to figure, there are 500 pesos to the dollar.

Ripening grapes just days before harvest

Unlike other major wine producing areas, there is not a lot of attention paid to wine tourism and very few tasting rooms exist. However some of the larger vineyards do feature fine restaurants, guest facilities, vineyard tours and tastings, but reservations are necessary

An easy way to explore the wine country outside of Santiago is to take the tour that begins at the Hotel Galerias, a beautifully restored Holiday Inn owned by the Santa Cruz Vineyards.

The bus takes you 87 miles south to the town of San Fernando, where you board the Tren del Vino (the wine train) which takes passengers on a 20 minute ride through the vineyards of the Colchaqua valley, voted one of the world’s great red wine regions in 2005.

Along the way wine from the area is liberally pored and at the Santa Cruz train station more wine awaits along with appetizers and local folk musicians and dancers.

You continue on for lunch at The Santa Cruz Winery in a lovely patio restaurant overlooking the vineyard.

On the property is a museum devoted to pre-Columbian and Easter Island art (the island is owned by Chile), and a gift shop and wine store in addition to the observatory perched in the hills above. They also own the Santa Cruz Plaza Hotel in town, which features local dishes and well thought out wine pairings with meals.

View from the patio restaurant at the Santa Cruz Vineyard

Down the road is the historic Hacienda Los Lingues, an estate that has been in the same family for 16 generations. They offer twenty beautifully appointed rooms full of antique furniture.

Horse riding is also available on trails that lead up into the hills above the valley, unveiling tremendous views from the backs of the agile native horses.

Horse trails above the Hacienda Los Lingues offer unspoiled views

Diner and breakfast is part of the package and make sure you try the national drink Pisco, which is artfully perfected here. It is similar to a whisky sour but composed of Muscat brandy, lemon juice, sugar and whipped egg whites.

The Hacienda makes some great wines including the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, which was the nicest white wine I tasted during my tour.

Like most of the back roads in the wine country, once you get off the main highway, you are driving dirt roads through picturesque farmlands. One dusty road led to ViaWines vineyards, a modern facility only a few years old, but they are already a leader in the Chilean wine industry.

They sponsor a number of training programs. While I was there a South African restaurateur from London was taking a month long internship along with four young winemakers from Brazil.

It was at the winery where we did a full tasting of Via wines and where I found my favorite red, aptly named “Red One,” under the Chilcas label. It is a blend of five red wines including the Carmenere grape, originally from Bordeaux.

The winery also has the Las Chilcas Guesthouse in the middle of the vineyard property, which can provide for up to 20 visitors. Meals are also included and one evening a whole sheep was roasted outdoors in the traditional style, seasoned with salt and splayed out on sticks. It was cooked by rotating it next to a blazing fire of eucalyptus wood. Absolutely delicious.

Other Chilean specialties include corn pie, a corn meal dish with onions, egg, raisins, olives, chicken and beef, wonderful fish soups and fried and baked breads, which are served with homemade salsa called pebre.

In the Maipo Valley southwest of Santiago, the historic 1880 Santa Rita vineyard, third largest in Chile, inhabits a long mission-style building and features a central garden, a lovely restaurant open to the public and a contemporary art museum.

In Santiago I stayed at the Ritz Carlton, which has an extensive wine program that includes tours of selected vineyards and wine and food pairings in the hotel restaurant 365, which is the number of Chilean wines in stock, one for every day.

The wine program is directed by Branko Kerlezi and the restaurant sommelier, who can arrange a flight of wines for tasting.

The afternoon I attended we tried ten different wines, from dry Sauvignon Blancs to a delicious late harvest Muscat from Tamaya Vineyard in the Limari Valley. I was even treated to the country’s best beer, Kunstmann, a hoppy pale ale.

The hotel also offers a wine bath to guests, which I enjoyed with a glass of Pinot Noir.

If You Go

Once in a blue moon or lunar eclipse you should plan a Chile reception in this warm and friendly country. LAN Airlines offers daily flights to Chile, by way of Peru and Argentina, with excellent service that features Chilean wine with meals. It was voted “The Best Airline to Central and South America” by the Official Airline Guide and Global Traveler Magazine in 2006.

Make sure you pack an extra $100 when you go. There is a one-time immigration fee charged Americans because we charge Chileans the same fee to visit America.

For housing options, wine and restaurant information, shopping tips, event listings, guidebooks, brochures and maps, contact the Chilean Tourist Office. For Information on the wine train, visit www.trendelvino.com.

This article was originally published on April 2017.

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I have just returned after several weeks in Scotland with my daughter. We were impressed with several castles we visited. Officially, there are 1,103 castles protected by Historic Environment Scotland. About 750 are still standing, the remainder are low ruins. We only visited 5 which was all time allowed.

We found them all very photogenic as many are on the shores of a loch or at the end of a peninsula on the sea. The most photographed castle in Scotland is Eileen Doran that can be seen on the road to the Island of Skye.

But why are there so many castles in Scotland? For hundreds of years the English border with Scotland was a war zone and often fought over. As well there was a constant rivalry between feuding clans and these castles were built for clan defence.

The five castles which impressed us most were; Castle Dunnattar; Castle Dunnstaffnage; Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness and Slains Castle on the East Coast. As well, Dunvegan Castle on Skye.

Slains Castle is a good place to start. Evidently, it was featured in the first season of The Crown (as a stand in for the Castle of May). Its real claim to fame was as the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s novel “Dracula” when he visited Cruden Bay in the late 1800’s. It stands as a proud ruin on a point of land in the North Sea. A lovely walk leads up to the imposing ruin which is open for exploration. Both my daughter and I had recently re-read Dracula and were anxious to see the setting. We weren’t disappointed. Most castles in Scotland are well cared for. Slains is very interesting because it is and looks like what happens when nature takes over.

But few castles on the North Sea are as impressive as the striking location of Dunnattar. The parking lot leads to a long walk to the castle way out on a magnificent headland. It is a popular spot to visit and the lot was almost full the day we arrived. The striking site has been fortified since the early Middle Ages. Dunnattar Castle is today a ruin, surrounded by dramatic cliffs descending over 150 feet to the North Sea. It was in use until 1718 and is now a “Scheduled Monument” in Scotland. A sight to see!

Urquhart Castle, or what is left of it, sits high above Loch Ness and offers stunning views of the Loch. Loch tour boats are located at the pier beside the castle. Another popular site to visit. The lot was full when we arrived but fortunately we both had a 14 day “Explorer Pass” that allowed entrance to a number of Scottish castles and was well worth the investment. The castle ruins are striking especially with Loch Ness providing the background. I wanted to visit because the first recorded Chisholm shows up in 1359 at Urquhart as constable at the castle.

We were also fascinated by Dunnstaffnage Castle dating from the the 13th century making it one of Scotland’s oldest. Its very rich history dates back to the middle 1100’s when Norway controlled Scotland’s western seaboard. It remains in the Clan Campbell hands and has witnessed much of Scotland’s turbulent history. Its shape is dictated by the rock that it stands on that dates back over 400 million years and is built on a spit of land that guards the approach to Loch Etive near Oban.

Dunvegan Castle is one of only a few that are still lived in today. It’s the ancestral home of the McLeods and can be easily reached on the Island of Skye. The clan chief was in residence when we were there. They have marvellous gardens to tour and the castle has many interesting rooms open for viewing filled with historic artifacts. Besides the gardens and the castle tour we were attracted by their boat tours they offered of Loch Dunvegan. Since the site was very popular, we arrived shortly after opening so we could book a boat ride before they were sold out, usually by noon. The boat ride was a joy and the highlight for us was coming close to a small island of harbour seals that raised their heads and appeared to smile as we motored by. A wonderful treat.

Words only go so far in the description of these wonderful castles. Photographs help but being there and seeing these imposing historic ruins has a special impact.

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The first thing you notice is the fragrance. The intoxicating perfume of the tiare flower announces to your senses that you are in a magical place, overflowing with tropical vegetation and soothing trade winds. It is the same fragrance that the English seamen on the HMS Bounty also first encountered; but they came, not for flowers, but for breadfruit, intended as a new food staple for their slaves in the West Indies. But that was another time and another emotional place. Today, Papeete, located on Tahiti Nui (“Big”), is Tahiti’s vibrant capital city and gateway to her islands. Roughly one-half of all of the Tahitian islands’ population lives in this city. Papeete bustles with world-class resorts, restaurants, nightclubs and endless shopping. If it’s a pearl you want or a hand-painted pareu (sarongs) – worn by women and men alike – this is the place for it.

The Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands offers a good overview of the island’s history. The English were the first Europeans to arrive, stripping the islanders of much of their heritage. In 1842, the French took over, and today the islands’ inhabitants possess full French citizenship, but the Gallic texture is evident only on the surface. Tahitians have maintained much of their old lifestyles. This is an island paradise and the warmth and openness of its people is the essence of its charm.

Not to be missed is Arahurahu Marae, the islands’ only completely reconstructed marae. An open-air place of worship and ceremony, the sacred temple is constructed of tiers of stones where the Tahitian elite made sacrifices. Yes, sometimes even human. Put an inland safari on your list, too. My jeep tour was deep into the mountainous valley of Papenoo; a true Garden of Eden with fertile displays of ginger, vanilla, taro, noni and breadfruit. The medicinal and cosmetic benefits of the pants and flowers are well utilized by the Tahitians, renowned for their health, physical beauty and spiritual serenity.

Tahiti Nui has much to offer, but locals also proudly tout the outlying, less-populated islands for their beauty and tranquility. Exploring the other Tahitian islands is best accomplished by booking an excursion on a cruise ship. You get to see more islands and it is less expensive.

Bora Bora– The Romantic Island

With its alluring blue lagoons, lush tropical slopes and Mount Otemanu looming in the distance, this enchanting island is synonymous with romance. Bora Bora is the place for a bike ride around the island, a leisurely hike, or to simply disappear on a white sandy beach. The history buff will enjoy seeing remnants of cannons manned by American servicemen during World War II. Until 1942, there were no roads and no vehicles on Bora Bora. Now tourism is on the rise, with scores of over-the-water bungalows dotting the multi-hued clear lagoon, but to the Yankee mainlander, this is still paradise found.

Moorea – The Magical Island

Moorea is the very essence of a South Seas island paradise, and it comes as no surprise that it is a favorite of many Tahitians. The beauty of the island, with its jagged green mountains and palm-draped beaches, is astounding. James Michener called it Bali Hai, Herman Melville based his novel Omoo on it, and Captain Cook spoke passionately of its landscapes and the beauty of the local people. Moorea is unique among the Tahitian Islands in having magnificent expanses of both white and black beaches. High in Moorea’s interior mountains, Polynesian royalty practiced their archery and maraes are hidden in rainforests. On a hilltop lookout between shark-tooth Mount Rotui and towering Mount Tohivea, there is an once-in-a-lifetime view once reserved only for the gods.

Raiatea – The Sacred Island

Raiatea, meaning “faraway heaven” was the cultural, religious and royal heart of Polynesia – the birthplace of the gods. The second largest Tahitian isle, it was where entire clans, complete with dogs, plants, trees and livestock, sailed off to find new homes on other islands. Today, you can canoe around the fjord-like Faaroa Bay and discover why the island was a favorite of Captain Cook.

Taha’a – The Vanilla Island

Taha’a offers a glimpse of the traditional tranquil life of the Tahitians. The flower-shaped island is surrounded by tiny motus (small islands) and in its fertile valleys farmers grow watermelon and vanilla – which is much stronger than the vanilla that is generally obtained from Mexico.

The Foods of Tahiti

Indigenous Tahitian cuisine uses what’s available from the land and from the sea, and is abundant in fish and fruit. Coconut milk and vanilla are incorporated in many of the dishes. Poisson Cru, tuna cured in limejuice with chopped green onions, cucumbers and tomatoes; and Fafa, a stew of chicken with spinach-like taro leaves; are among my favorites. The taro root (more flavorful than the Hawaiian version), breadfruit, sweet potatoes, and plantains offer typical starch fare. Mangoes, bananas, watermelon, pineapple, papaya, guava, soursop and pummelo are in abundance. From the lagoons come parrotfish, perch, and mullet; from the open sea the freshest of fresh tuna, bonito, wahoo, scad and mahi mahi.

For further information about Tahiti and her Islands, log-on to Tahiti-Tourisme.com.

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The world’s highest tropical mountain range, the Cordillera Blanca, (White Range) triumphs the continent in north-central Peru in the Ancash region. The Huascarán National Park that contains most of the range is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that covers 3,400 square kilometers. The mountain range itself is 200 km long and 21 km wide.

Unique plants abound, like the high altitude orange-rust paper bark trees. One can be viewing tropical plants and then lift one’s gaze to some of the park’s 27 snow-capped peaks above 6,000 meters, and perhaps an Andean Condor. Among the peaks is the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán, 6,768 meters. The Llanganuco lagoon in the photos, one of hundreds of lakes in the park fed by over 660 tropical glaciers, is 3,860 meters high. If you’re coming from low altitudes and haven’t acclimated, take it slow and easy, as even that height, well over twice as high as Denver, can feel taxing on a slope. For those acclimated and up for it, there are multiple hiking journeys, from several days to ten or more.

Among the mountains is Artesonraju, the model for the current Paramount logo that in 1953 replaced the 1914 model based on the Utah mountain Ben Lomond. No word on if the Ellisons will change Paramount’s logo to the crumbled White House East Wing.
What are tropical mountain ranges? They hang their hats between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn, maintaining a monthly average temperature of 18 or more degrees C. Plenty of rainfall and cloud moisture, and distinct vertical life zones, from rain forests to upper tree lines as high as 4,000 meters.

To travel to the park from the town of Huaraz, visitors traverse a valley that was devastated by the 1970 earthquake that killed 30,000 people in the initial avalanche alone, climbing to 70,000 in related disasters. In a couple photos you can see a distant statue of Christ in the town of Yungay, now a national cemetery as it was impossible to reach victims. Some boulders carried in the avalanche weigh up to 14,000 tons. The 7.9 quake severed part of the north peak of Huascarán Mountain, powering the avalanche. Another photo, of a garden, also shows the distant break in the ridge where the avalanche roared through. It is difficult to imagine but it traveled 16 km in three to four minutes, the main mass going as fast as 335 km/h. The leading edge may have been 450 km/h, with airborne projectiles, multi-ton rocks, flying as fast as 1,100 km/h. To hear and see it coming must have terrified, though briefly, then over like being shot by God. The few survivors were those, like a class from a girls school on an outing, who happened to be graced by being up higher in the valley, watching their world disappear forever.

Peru’s beauty is without peer. However, its location on the Pacific Ring of Fire carries the potential for cosmic rug jerks in parts of the country. On a smaller scale, it’s not uncommon to reroute or change destinations in the area due to frequent landslides. Fortunately there are many choice options. This all conveys a sense of precarity, one that is growing in one aspect or another throughout much of South America.

For more information, visit the tourism department.

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Each summer, the countryside of northeastern Italy is transformed into a golden sea of sunflowers, where sun-kissed fields, quiet villages, and timeless landscapes celebrate the beauty of the season.

There are few sights more uplifting than a field of girasoli (sunflowers) in full bloom. Across the countryside of northeastern Italy, vast carpets of golden blossoms stretch to the horizon, their radiant faces following the arc of the summer sun as if performing nature’s oldest dance. It is a spectacle that lasts only a few precious weeks, yet leaves an enduring impression on all who encounter it.

From late June through July, the fertile plains of the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia burst into colour. Quiet country lanes weave between fields ablaze in varying shades of yellow, where towering blooms stand shoulder to shoulder beneath cloudless skies. The landscape seems to shimmer in the warm afternoon light, framed by vineyards, orchards, and the distant silhouette of the pre-Alps. Here, the pace of life slows, inviting travellers to linger and savour one of Italy’s most enchanting seasonal displays.

The provinces of Padua, Rovigo, Verona, Udine, and Pordenone are among the region’s finest places to discover these golden landscapes. Sunflower fields often appear unexpectedly beyond ancient farmhouses, beside centuries-old churches, or along winding roads lined with poplar trees. Whether viewed from a bicycle, a passing train, the window of a leisurely drive, or the absolute best way, on foot, each panorama feels like a living painting, rich with colour and light.

Photography enthusiasts, like me, are drawn to the fields during the “golden hour,” when the late afternoon-into evening sun embraces the blossoms in a warm amber glow. Against deep blue skies, the vivid yellow petals create striking contrasts, while morning dew adds a delicate sparkle to the broad green leaves. It’s no wonder these landscapes have become a favourite subject for artists and nature lovers alike. Vincent Van Gogh found the sunflower to be the perfect subject for his thick, impasto brush strokes.

Although admired for their beauty, Helianthis annuus are first and foremost an important agricultural crop. Introduced to Europe from North America in the 16th century, they thrive in the warm summers and fertile soils of the northeast, and elsewhere around the Bel Paese. Today, they’re cultivated for their nutritious seeds and premium cooking oil, while also supporting biodiversity by providing nectar for bees, butterflies, and countless other pollinators. Their deep roots improve soil structure, making them a valuable part of sustainable crop rotation.

The sunflower’s Italian name girasole, literally “turns with the sun,” perfectly captures its enduring fascination. While young plants follow the sun’s movement across the sky, mature blooms settle facing east, greeting each new dawn. This simple natural phenomenon has inspired artists and poets for centuries, symbolising optimism, resilience, and the promise of brighter days.

Exploring these golden landscapes is one of the quiet pleasures of an Italian summer. Stop at a village café for an espresso, browse a local market overflowing with seasonal produce, or visit a nearby vineyard where crisp white wines, floral rosè and elegant reds reflect the character of the surrounding countryside. Many of the region’s prettiest villages are only minutes from the sunflower fields, making it easy to combine nature, culture, and cuisine in a single day.

For a few fleeting weeks each year, northeastern Italy is painted in shades of gold. The girasoli bloom, gently rotating toward the light, transforming ordinary farmland into extraordinary scenery. They remind us that some of Italy’s most memorable experiences are found not in famous art-filled museums or bustling piazzas, but in the quiet splendour of its countryside, where summer, sunshine, and nature come together and turn in perfect harmony.

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It was 6:00 a.m. June 1, the first day of winter. The evening rain that had moved in off the South Pacific ceased and the sun dawned. I was sleeping in the rain forest near Byron Bay when a choir rose to meet the day and the new season.

The plaintiff song of the Butcherbirds, the squawking of the red bellied Rosella Parrots and cockatoos in the shedding gum trees, the childlike crying of the Green Catbird, cackling of the Bush Turkeys, melodious tunes of black and white magpies, thrushes, and yellow beaked mynahs as they fed on the nectar of the bottle brush were all disturbed by the lunatic cacophony of the plump and amusing Laughing Kookaburras. I woke to winter with a smile.

The strangely formed menagerie of land-bound hoppers, burrowers, birds, eucalyptus munchers and mixed breed creatures were dumb, satisfied to leave the morning air to the high-flying vocalists and unable or unwilling to join the chorus.

I was in New South Wales in the land down under and flora, fauna, time and season were out of joint. Lying on the southeast coast of Australia, the state enjoys a Mediterranean climate (ranging between 40 and 75 degrees in winter), the country’s largest population (7 million of a total 30 million) and fosters sophisticated and alternative lifestyles.

Its capital is Sydney, the oldest and most beautiful city in the country (although Melbournians will dispute this claim, I don’t think they have an argument). Situated on one of the world’s great harbors, its shore is adorned by a massive bridge that gates and spans the seaway entrance and the revolutionary architecture of the Opera House sails onto the water edge, ringed by pristine city buildings and million dollar homes.

Sydney Opera House sails into the harbor.

It was the country’s first colony, established January 26, 1788 when the fleet commanded by Captain Arthur Phillip landed in Sydney Harbour with about 750 convicts and 250 officials and their families to settle and claim the continent for Great Britain.

Following the Revolutionary War the U.S. had rejected British prisoner settlement in the south, so now it was off to the land that Captain Cook had discovered with its unwanted cargo. As in American history, the indigenous population would suffer deeply from this incursion, but that is always the cost of exploration and settlement. The event is commemorated every year as “Australia Day” and celebrated in the blistering heat of January 26, most heavily in the “convict city” of Sydney.

I arrived in Sydney on the countries signature airline, Qantas, which has non-stop direct flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco that take about fifteen hours. You cross the international dateline and lose a day, reason enough to extend your visit.

I booked my tour through Virtuoso, which specially selects hotels, restaurants and attractions for its clients. They have a working relationship with the Australian Tourism Office and receive special amenities and offers, which they pass along to travelers.

Some Virtuoso hotel recommendations in Sydney include the InterContinental, Four Seasons, Park Hyatt and The Observatory. All have great spas, pools and restaurants, but The Observatory has the top Sommelier in Australia, Christian, who matched and explained some beautiful Australian wines with my dinner. The best meal I had was prepared by the two Michelin star chef Hugh Whitehouse at Darley’s Restaurant in Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort and Spa.

In Sydney I got a behind-the-scenes tour of the Opera House and dined in the employee restaurant. English artist/musician Brian Eno had just installed his evening light show, which flashed numerous images on the outside sails of the Opera House, and he filmed the event for future use.

I sped around Sydney Harbour on Sea Sydney Cruises 52-foot motor yacht, had lunch in a quiet bay aboard ship, docked at the enormous Taronga Zoo and met koalas, emus, kangaroos, Tasmanian Devils and most of the other odd creatures that inhabit this lost world of the animal phylum. There are more peculiar and lethal animals in Australia than anywhere else.

Left: Munching Koala Bear at lunch; Right: Curious Emu

Red Kangaroos wander freely throughout the country

The day I arrived in Sydney I had breakfast and lunch in Bondi Beach, the great surfing Mecca, and met two young American women who were waitressing at Nick’s and Trio Café on one-year work visas. It’s a government program for 18-30 year old students to take a “Gap” year from college and experience life in Australia and be able to make a little money (very little, Australians usually don’t tip).

Travelers on a shorter timetable should also know that they need to purchase a three-month visa from the Australian government for $25 before entering the country.

Australians love their coffee and drink it more than tea. Some coffee shop terms to know if you want to succeed as an Australian barista on the work visa program: “Long black” is espresso with water, “flat white” espresso with frothy milk.

For Sydneysiders the wine country means Hunter Valley, a two-hour journey to the north. Grab a copy of the Hunter Valley Wine Country Visitor Guide from the Tourist Center to check out some of the 140 vineyards, primarily producing Shiraz and Semillon. Be wary if you are imbibing in wine country. Australians drive on the left side of the road.

Hunter Valley vineyards in the winter month of June

Some I visited were Audrey Wilkinson, Hungerford Hill, Lindemans, which also has vineyards in the Barossa, McGuigan Cellars, Wyndham Estate, which introduced Shiraz to Australia back in the late 1800s, and my favorite Pepper Tree Estate. On the vineyard grounds are Robert’s Restaurant, The Convent guesthouse and Tower Lodge.

For a glass of beer in wine country visit the Bluetongue Brewery and try their tasting. My favorite beer in Australia was Coopers, nice and hoppy. For local cheese sample across the street at Binnoire Dairy. In the Hunter Valley I stayed on the expansive grounds of Peppers Guest House, on which wild kangaroos also resided and Internet usage was free.

On my journey north to the Hunter Valley, I passed through bush country to visit the World Heritage Site of the Blue Mountains. These intriguing formations gain their color from vapors rising off the eucalyptus forest. There are spectacular views from the lookout ledge, but this is not the best place for an acrophobe, the stone platform plunges straight down over 1,000 feet.

Byron Bay, population 9,000, was my favorite area in New South Wales. The most easterly town in Australia, it lies two hours north of Sydney by plane at the edge of a rain forest. It’s a surfer’s paradise and artist colony. Many of the artist’s workplaces are also shops. Make sure to visit the local glassworks and travel into the hills to meditate and renew at the alternative lifestyle Crystal Castle retreat.

In the 60s and 70s the counterculture cultivated high-test “Mullimbimby Madness” in these hills and there’s a little bit of that culture still around. Lots of lively pubs and restaurants in Byron Bay keep the town rocking. The best restaurant is Dish and Paul Hogan opened the town’s largest bar. On occasion you’ll also see a celebrity like Paul, Gweneth Paltrow, Russell Crowe and Olivia Newton John, who own homes in the area.

I stayed at the Byron at Byron Resort and Spa, built inside the coastal rainforest. They offer several spa treatments and have a lovely pool and restaurant, where I had dinner with the town Mayor and proprietors Lyn and John Parche my final night. This is a spectacular property that you must see and hear, especially as I did, at 6 a.m. when the morning choir begins, no matter the season.

For information on travel accommodations, special events, sightseeing, dining options, bargain hunting, etc., www.australia.com, www.sydney.com and www.virtuoso.com.

Originally posted April, 2017.

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It was 2 a.m. my last night in Baja. Standing on the veranda of my hotel room on Rosarito Beach, the full moon illuminated the slate gray ocean and a phosphorescent white glow in the foaming waves as they ebbed and receded from the shore.

Millions of years ago these salt waters covered the peninsula, layering in shell that would become limestone. When the tectonic plates rose and forced the waters back they cracked the granite that lined the earth’s crust into boulders, which later mixed with the illuvial soils of clay, sand, and other minerals to form the land that would so influence the vineyards.

I last visited the Baja Peninsula in 1986, about the time that the first modern plantings of vines were occurring in the northern valleys. Now about 70 mostly small family run wineries dot the landscapes in the Valle de Guadalupe, Santo Tomás, Vicente, San Antonio de las Minas and Valle de las Palmas regions, where 90 percent of Mexico’s wine is produced within a 100 mile radius and less than a two hour drive from the American border south of San Diego.

Vineyards in the Valle de Guadalupe

The Spanish were the first to plant grapes in the region during the 16th century, primarily to use as sacramental wine. In the 1860s Russian immigrants escaping Czarist persecution started settling in the Valle de Guadalupe and also planted grapes. To this day you can occasionally see a blond or red head descendant in the valley.

The oldest surviving vineyard is Bodega de Santo Tomas, founded in 1888. Aside from its Reserva Unico, It is best known for having joined California’s Wente Vineyard to produce Duetto, a 50-50 Santo Tomas/Wente blend. They also produce exceptional olive oil and last year shocked the Italians when it won first prize at a blind tasting in Milan.

Best known of the Baja wine areas is Valle de Guadalupe. Situated off the coast in a rising plane between Rosarita and Ensenada, most of the vineyards are planted between 1,000 and 1,300 feet elevation, beginning about twelve miles up the incline from the ocean, the wine growing area stretches about 20 miles. Warning to acrophobes, don’t look down when you’re driving along this wine country road.

The stone and boulder strewn land is a reminder that it once dwelt below the sea, and its austere landscape has a major influence on the quality of the wine. The off-shore flow of cool air in the evenings mitigates the warm days and contributes to the development of the grape in similar ways that California coastal vineyards experience, but harvest begins a bit earlier, in August. Thirty-five varieties of wine grapes are cultivated including Italian and Spanish varietals which do well here, especially Tempranilo and Nebbiolo, which is usually the last grape to be harvested.

Nebbiolo Grapes Days Before Harvest in the La Cetto Vineyards

Other grapes which adapt to the warmer climate and make up the largest plantings include Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier.

In Tecata, the northeast area of the Valle de Guadalupe, lies the second largest vineyard in Mexico, La Cetto (La Khet-toe), with a volume of 800,000 cases a year selling between $7 and $50 depending on the wine. The tasting room receives about 200,000 visitors a year and the wine has won numerous international gold medals. Next door is the La Casa de Dona Lupe vineyard where you can sample local cheese and olives with your wine.

Monte Xanic vineyards

Other outstanding wineries with tasting rooms include Monte Xanic, founded in 1987 by Hans Backhoff and regarded as one of the top produces in the area. Domecq, which used to be known for its Sherry and Brandy, now concentrates on non-fortified wines. Tres Valles, which as the name implies, features bold reds from the Guadalupe, Santo Tomás and San Vicente valleys. The beautiful Hacienda La Lomita and Pijoan wineries produces some nice whites. Many consider that Viñas de Garza produces the finest wines in the area and his Cabernet reflects that in its price of $54. Also try the wines at Casa de Piedra, Vinisterra and Rincón de Guadalupe vineyards. In Ensenada visit Fernando Martain at Cavas Valmar, one of the pioneers of the modern Baja wine region.

My favorite winemaker, Monica Palafox of Palafox winery, delivers across the board, from whites to reds. Located in Valle de la Grulla, south of Ensenada and abutting the Santo Tomás Valley, you need to make a reservation to taste, www.aldopalafox.com.

Other Vineyards with tasting rooms include Baron Balche, Bibayoff, Sol de Media Noche, Vinas de Liceaga and Vinos Fuentes.

Monica Palafox and my favorite wine in Baja

In August, 2012, Mexican President Felipe Calderón dedicated the new wine museum in the Valle de Guadalupe, built with $5.3 million in state and federal funds, and announced the establishment of a $3.8-million fund aimed at supporting Mexico’s wine industry. Its facilities highlight the history and tradition of wine-making in the region through interactive displays.

Wine museum

Many of those working in the Mexican wine industry have trained in California, Oregon and Washington, especially the field workers, and many of the wine makers have experience in Europe as well as the Western United States. Whether the Mexican wines will ever rival those remains to be seen, but there is a lot of optimism and European and American wineries are sharing in the interest as well.

America laws restrict the amount of alcohol that can be brought across the border to one liter, which is one of the reasons that only about 20 percent of tasting room guests are from outside of Mexico. The other is that Mexicans are developing a taste for wine and an appreciation of the vineyards in Baja.

When You Go:

Glamping

Until recently, Baja wines had little to no commercial presence in the United States because of the small production and low importer interest. However the wines mentioned here can be purchased directly from the vineyards or from the San Diego firm winesfrombaja.com.

Some of the larger vineyards have tasting rooms open daily to the public, but for many others you need to make reservations. Brochures available through the Baja Tourist Office provide contact information. English is spoken at all the tasting rooms.

The peso is worth about 80 cents to the dollar and in Baja you get more for your money if you deal in dollars and don’t convert to pesos.

There are a number of housing and dining options. In wine country I did some “glamping” at Cuarto Cuartos vineyards, elegant cabanas set in the middle of an expansive vineyard with magnificent views of the Pacific Ocean from the hilltops on the property. In Rosarito I stayed at the New Port Beach Hotel, where the water laps against the shore, day and night.

When dinning in Rosarito try the obligatory lobster dinner at Puerto Nuevo restaurant and enjoy a Mexican breakfast at the eccentric El Nido. In the Valle de Guadalupe enjoy the local cuisine at Meson Leonardo and be sure to try the apple pie. In Ensenada, try the upscale oceanside dinning at Belio and Nigori Sushi for a change of pace.

Whenever you’re in Ensenada you must visit the historic watering hole Hussong’s for margaritas and mariachis. Founded in 1892 by German immigrant John Hussong, it is the oldest cantina in Mexico.

Port of Ensenada

For brochures, the Ruta del Vino map, tasting room reservations, housing, restaurant information and lists of events and festivals, contact the Baja Tourist Office.

This article originally published in April 2017.

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About Brom Wikstrom: During the summer of 1975, at the age of 21, a diving accident left Brom a quadriplegic. He spent seven weeks in intensive care in a public health hospital, and the following year in Seattle at the University of Washington hospital. MORE.

The invitation came by post. I thought it was junk at first and stacked it with the rest of the mail until my wife Anne came home for lunch from her dental office. A handsome brochure touting the attractions of Peru is included along with a letter describing the dedication of a group sponsoring a conference on art and disability. I cannot determine how my name came to their attention but recognize this invitation as the chance of a lifetime and speculate for a couple days on how we might manage to afford the trip.

It will strain us financially but an adventure of this nature is too good to pass up and we are excited about the prospects of meeting artists and experiencing a completely different culture. A couple weeks of arrangements by phone, fax, e-mails and letters go by and we are booked and registered. Anne’s employer has given us the name of a colleague in Lima where the conference is taking place in case of an emergency.

Anxious weeks go by as we await our departure and research Inca history that we are certain to experience. We won’t require inoculations but are uneasy about encountering Shining Path guerillas or bandits of any sort. As we approach our departure time we feel as prepared as we can be but do have apprehensions about the unknown.

It’s a long flight to Lima and we’re unsure what day it is when we finally touch down but know that it’s late at night and with little effort we get through customs and locate our transportation. It’s apparent as we try to communicate with the cab driver that the language barrier is going to cause difficulty but fortunately we connect with delegates from Tucson who speak the lingo. Frank is blind and an accomplished singer and musician and his companion Marcia operates a theater company and is associated with VSA Arts.

After a few hours sleep, we rise for a quick bite in the hotel café and link with Frank and Marcia and volunteers from the sponsors for a tour of the city. We arrive at Plaza de Mayo, the main city square where the changing of the guard is in progress. It’s a ritual that doesn’t interest us much and we’re satisfied to tour a few shops and listen to the street performers. Frank tries out a flute and joins one group briefly for an impromptu concert.

We load into cabs and drive to the district of Miraflores and a large outdoor market. We are stunned by the vast assortment of items for sale and the high quality of the material. Some serious shopping ensues and I pick up a couple of items to add to my collections including a marvelously etched gourd.

We walk back to the hotel along Arequipa Avenue that is a wide boulevard that shows the flavor of the city well.

The congress is taking place at another hotel that is close enough for us to walk to and we enjoy exploring the neighborhood and getting our bearings while making our way there. The main thrust of the conference is theater arts and I’m thankful to be able to represent a visual component along with a talented artist from Cuba. Delegates gather and we meet many of the participants including Sharon and Laurel who are disabled travel agents from the U.S.

They introduce us to a local guide named Pepe who assures us that it will be possible to take a side trip to Cuzco and Machu Picchu! It will further tax our resources but we’re game for the adventure and put our faith in Pepe’s company, Apumayo Tours.

The conference consists of a series of panel discussions that are informative and compelling and describe programs offered locally and internationally for people with disabilities to become involved in the arts. We are pleased to contribute to the proceedings and share our experiences. Our evening is capped by a series of wildly confusing but very dramatic performances by conference artists at a theater in another district. The language barrier is formidable but we enjoy the show nevertheless and continue to meet other delegates including Jose, an artist’s agent who has a special treat for us tomorrow.

First we will again attend conference sessions but soon rendezvous with Jose, Sharon and Laurel at a local restaurant for lunch. There we taste the national drink, Pisco Sours that resembles a margarita with a froth of egg white and sprinkled bitters. Jose is post-polio and gets around on crutches and upon concluding our trip we will ship him a sports wheelchair that I was no longer using.

Our cab follows his car to the Callou District that overlooks the Pacific Ocean and enters a fairgrounds park that is between events. In a secluded area we get out to tour a large studio with an amazing collection of life casts of North and South American Indians. Dozens of the sculptures line a long gallery and a workshop demonstrates their production. Our private tour is also highlighted by a visit to the personal menagerie also maintained by the absent owner who is a friend of Jose’s, a certain Mr. Filipe Lettersten.

After the next day’s congress we make our way to the Lima Museum of Art. It is located in a lush park and I only need a little help up five steps to access the galleries. The permanent collection of paintings and sculpture is nice enough but the abundant archeological treasures blow us away. The age and condition of the ceramics and textiles of the pre-Incan cultures demonstrate a high degree of proficiency and we’re hard-pressed to think of these artisans as primitive in any way.

The Chancay society is featured in a special exhibition that is dominated by a huge unwrapped funeral bundle that must contain many priceless personal effects of the owner. Our afternoon is capped by a return to the market in Miraflores and gift purchases for loved ones at home.

The evening’s performance features a deaf mime from Germany and an incredible piece by a group from Spain whose energy and colorful costumes delight and inspire us all. On our late-night drive back to the hotel young beggars at a red light descend upon our car and thrust their arms into the car for a handout.

The last day’s sessions are short and sweet and we take our time saying farewells and exchanging gifts. The many volunteers have been extremely helpful in making our trip easy and I give out many lapel pins that I have had made with an original design. Our next stop is the National Museum. It is a rather ugly, totalitarian looking building but within are delicate glories that span time and space. The exquisite gold and turquoise carvings are incredible and the variety and richness of the ancient material is truly astounding.

We are obliged to get assistance up several flights of steps to the main galleries since it’s a Sunday and the elevators are inoperative. The trouble is well worth it as the special exhibit on the Lords of Sipan is incomparable and even features real skeletons. The collection now has its own museum near the site of the discovery.

Early the next morning, we rise and load into a cab that takes us to the airport. Our short, first class flight to Cuzco crosses magnificent scenery of deep, jungle ravines and high, mountain plateaus. It is a fabulous scene and we are amazed at our good fortune.

We touchdown in the Inca capital and immediately are ushered to a nurse’s station in order to check my blood pressure for signs of altitude sickness. No problems are detected and we meet with Pepe who introduces us to our porters and tour guide. Edgar is a full-blooded Quechua Indian and relates many facts about his proud heritage.

I am loaded into a van and begin with a tour of the city. Flute music issues from shops on the Plaza de Armas where we stop and have our first taste of coca tea. This beverage will aid in our adjustment to the altitude and the required ritual lends a spiritual aspect to its consumption. Blowing the vapors to the winds and sprinkling a few drops will appease the ancestors and we begin to realize the depth of faith exercised by the Christianized Incas.

Anne explores some markets and I chew on coca leaves and admire the Inca stonework that serves as the foundation for Spanish style architecture. The number three figures prominently in the ancient culture and is evident in the steps and recessed doors of the buildings. It is also reflected in the tenets of proper living as described by Edgar; Don’t be a liar, Don’t be lazy, Don’t be a thief.

We drive out of town and stop briefly at the enormous, stone fortress of Sacsahuman and Tambo Machay with its cascading waters that only the nobility could use. Edgar points out the terraced mountain fields that the Inca had constructed into the shape of a condor on our way to the small but historic town of Pisac. We purchase some modest souvenirs and continue our drive into the Sacred Valley to our hotel, the Posada del Inca.

The altitude is getting to me a bit and I am pleased to lie down for a nap before a light chicken and rice meal. We are pleased to visit a small chapel on the grounds and later are treated to a fireworks display ignited in celebration of tomorrow’s Feast of the Immaculate Conception.

Later that evening, we visit a ceramic studio and meet the English-speaking owner. The work is wonderful but a little pricey and we really don’t have room in our bags so only purchase a small plaque. We are too excited about tomorrow’s adventure to get much sleep and will have to rely on adrenalin to get us by.

I enjoy a hearty breakfast and feel prepared for the day. It is a glorious, sunny day and we load and begin our drive towards the train station that will transport us to the Machu Picchu station. Along the way, Edgar points out the way Inca women rouged their lips with crushed cactus mites that generated a red substance. He also shows us a whole mountain that had been converted into the form of a frog with more stone terraces.

Folk artists offer us their products while waiting for the train that will carry us along the banks of the Urabamba River. Farmland gives way to ever-increasing jungle growth the further we go and the gentle river becomes a torrent as we descend deeper into the gorge. Edgar points out evidence of Inca civilization along the way and describes the rail line as a previous Inca trail. Several passengers get off at the halfway point to walk the rest of the way to the citadel.

The first of several obstacles greet us as we exit the train at Machu Picchu station. Steep steps lead to the buses that will take us to the park so we are obliged to traverse a long rocky trail instead. My porters take turns and team up for the hard parts and manage to get me aboard the bus that takes us up a harrowing twelve-kilometer drive to the site. Edgar is clear in his correction that these are not “Ruins”, and that Hiram Bingham was the Re-discoverer of the city.

He also makes a dramatic declaration about the mountain that overlooks the city after we have entered the sacred confines. The shape of the Puma Mountain becomes apparent and certain mysteries are revealed as we delve deeper into the extinct civilization. The manicured stonework is extremely impressive and our eyes take in the wonders with majesty.

A long flight of steps leads to the most sacred place, the Temple of the Sun. While my helpers take a well deserved break, we listen to Edgar’s description of the edifice. I decide to place one of my pins beneath a stone and Edgar makes the gift worthy by raising his arms and begging acceptance of the Inca. We ascend another long flight of stone steps to the Sacred Plaza and take in the awesome view through the Temple of the Three Windows.

This courtyard is the site of many ceremonial rituals that I cannot begin to imagine and I express my sincere gratitude to Pepe and the others who have made this remarkable experience possible. The weather is hot and I begin appreciate why the sun and the shadows it casts were of such significance to the Inca.

Anne is able to access other parts of the site while I find a shady spot and let my imagination carry me aloft, above these massive, unspoiled stones and into the cloud jungle. The large, ceremonial plaza below is easier to traverse and Anne and I get a few moments alone to reflect on the meaning for both of us. Too soon though, we rendezvous and after some group photos, we begin our descent.

A mild shower cools our sunburned brows and gives a shine to the rocks and cliffs as we move along the terraces that lead towards the exit. We pass under an enormous stone outcropping that serves as an effective barrier to this Shangri La. The bus-ride back gives me a lingering view of the palaces and we feel as if waking from a dream. We have a 3/4 of a mile trek along the rail line to the helicopter port and eventually get hoisted aboard the twelve-seat helicopter for the half-hour flight back to Cuzco.

The other fellows will take the train back and meet with us over a congratulatory dinner at a restaurant off the Plaza de Armas. We check into the Hotel Libertador, a luxurious place but not very accessible and relax over a late lunch with Pepe and some Coca tea. That evening on the plaza, we treat to a well-earned meal and express our thanks for the crew’s hard work on our behalf. We stay up late and review the experience over champagne in our room and say our farewells. It has been an extraordinary day that we will never forget and we’re sorry to see it come to an end.

Anne has a raging headache upon rising and even inhales oxygen once we’re aboard our flight back to Lima. Our familiar cab driver is happy to see us and takes us back to the Invertur Hotel where I am pleased to rest in bed while Anne visits the shopping market one last time and acquires several musical instruments.

That evening, Dr. Haro, a colleague of Anne’s boss, treats us to a fantastic meal. He is interested in the work I’ve recently had done on my teeth and gives me a cursory exam in the middle of the dining room to the amusement of the waiter.

The long flight back to reality is mercifully uneventful and we are delighted to return safely. We share our memories with our loved ones and present them with gifts that have much more meaning for us and begin to re-assimilate back into the twentieth century.

• Original article written in December ’98.

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Since my visit to Asturias, Spain, last October, I’ve been dreaming about a rustic chicken dish I was served there. I was visiting for the natural paradise that is Asturias, with hiking, climbing, horseback riding, kayaking, even coal mining on my itinerary. But all that exercise led me to explore the fantastic kitchens of the region too.

Since that Asturian trip I’ve researched recipes for Pitu Caleya only to learn that, as is so typical of true rustic dishes, each household has its own way of making it! The version I was served was a rice-centric dish with all the flavors of chicken but no big pieces. The recipes I found online were more formal, featuring chicken pieces and rice ranging from a risotto consistency to a crusted paella style. Below I combined the best recipes to deliver the great chicken flavor I remembered with a rice somewhere between the two. I’ve made it several times now and really like the fragrance, texture, and taste. I even included a shortcut so the dish can be made in one day if you are short on time.

A note about the spelling: Pitu caleya is the Spanish version. Pitu Calella is the Asturian version, with the double “ll”s pronounced as “l”, not as a “y” in Spanish.

Pitu Caleya – Asturian Chicken “Paella”

Ingredients – serves four (with the best leftovers!) to eight

• 4 each chicken drumsticks and thighs, (eight pieces) bone-in, skin-on
• Marinade:
  • 3 tbsp salt
  • 1 ½ tbsp sugar
  • freshly ground pepper to taste
  • 4 tbsp vegetable oil – more as needed
• Braise:
  • 10 sprigs thyme
  • 1 garlic head, cut in half
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 cups whole apple cider
  • 2 cups Sidra (Spanish cider) Preferably Trabanco, but in the US Angry Orchard would do.
  • 2 cups chicken stock or broth as needed in braise or paella
• Paella:
  • 5 tbsp butter (or more as needed)
  • ½ cup flour
  • extra chicken stock or broth
  • 1 medium onion diced
  • 1 medium carrot diced
  • 1 medium red pepper diced
  • ¾ cup Calasparra rice
  • ¼ tsp crushed red pepper
  • 1 tsp salt
  • mixed chopped fresh herbs (parsley, chervil, chives) to garnish

Instructions

• Stir the salt, black pepper, and sugar in the oil until sugar dissolves, then drizzle over the chicken legs and thighs in a zipper plastic bag and rub chicken through sides of the bag to fully moisten and refrigerate from six hours to overnight. (Alternately, rub the marinade on the chicken and proceed to the next step.)
• Remove chicken from the refrigerator. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the chicken skin side up in a 9×12 baking pan, add thyme, garlic, and bay leaves, pour in the cider and sidra, (the liquid should be halfway up the chicken – if not, add enough chicken stock to get there) and braise in the oven uncovered for about 1 -1 ½ hours. The chicken should be tender, golden and caramelized on top and the liquid should have reduced by about half. Allow to cool enough to handle. 
• Remove the meat (skin attached) from the chicken drumsticks in pieces while keeping the thigh intact as you remove the bone.Set aside the thighs and garlic, strain and defat the liquid, mashing the roasted garlic back into the strained braising liquid. Reserve liquid and set aside the bones for your next stock.
• In a large sauté pan or paella pan brown the butter. Toss the pieces of chicken leg meat and skin (not the intact thighs) in a plastic bag with the flour and the remaining salt and add to the brown butter. Cook until the chicken becomes golden brown and crispy. Remove to a plate and keep warm.
• Then add the chopped onion, carrot, and both diced and dried red peppers and saute’ until soft, 3-4 minutes, adding more butter as needed. Return the chicken legs to the pan. Add the rice, stirring to moisten, followed in a minute by the remaining braising liquid from the chicken and, if needed, enough extra stock to make 4 cups.
• Cook over medium heat until the rice absorbs most of the liquid, stir, trying not to disturb the bottom layer of rice as it begins to stick to the pan – about 30 minutes. Taste the rice and adjust for seasoning, especially salt. Preheat the oven to 350.
• Arrange the reserved chicken thighs (halved if serving eight) on top of the cooked rice in the pan and finish cooking in the oven for ten minutes. Garnish with chopped herbs and set on the table. Serve on warm plates each with a thigh on top of the rice. Pass a salad.

Unfortunately, I was unable to get chef Noé Alvarez’s recipe for pitu caleya, of Castillo Del Alba Hotel, but this slightly fancier substitute will still deliver the delicious flavor while being true to the traditional regional specialty. I hope you enjoy it!

Note on accommodations: In the old quarter of Aviles, my hotel, the Palacio de Aviles, is a converted palace with centuries of history and beautiful, formal gardens to relax in. From there it was an easy walk or short drive for the culinary adventures described above. All but Pitu Caleya. I stayed at the Castillo Del Alba Hotel for that meal.

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