The property (which is part of a group of eight delightful, luxury hotels in Rome, Venice, and Florence) is owned and operated by the WTB Hotels Collection. (Why The Best, in case you are wondering.) And the head corporate honcho (chief timekeeper?) is a watch aficionado, who has infused each of his three L’Orologio properties with a unique décor that showcases a plethora of impressive watch-related accessories, sprinkled throughout the inspiring and comfortable design. You’ll never be too far from a dazzling timepiece.

The intimate (43 rooms and suites) Rome property sits comfortably in the Sant’ Eustachio neighborhood, not too far from Largo di Torre Argentina, the Pantheon, the Piazza Navona; it is across the Tiber River from Rome’s well-known Trastevere neighborhood (the former Jewish ghetto) and the Villa Farnesina, an impressive mansion built in the very early 16th century and one of the most majestic (remaining) Renaissance buildings in the city.

Upon entering this conveniently-located hotel, you’ll spot the watch theme immediately-large, elegant art works feature classy and classic watches. A lobby coffee table is actually a model of an outsize, imposing Audemars Piguet watch, a yard or more in diameter. So amazing, you may not want to rest your lowly water bottle on the surface.

Several other design elements will not escape you: The illuminated numbers above the elevator glow with back lighting. The black background showcases a white-outlined number, and inside that outline there is a panoply of watch gears and rotary parts. It’s a charming reminder that time marches not only on, but, also, up and down.

When you arrive at your floor, you’ll find the halls lined with stunning, oversize photos of “important” watches. And when you get to your room, you’ll note that the door sports not merely the room number, but a “proper moniker,” referencing a watch movement. In my case, it was room 203, dubbed 2499 Perpetual, honoring a striking Patek Philippe model; between 1950 and 1985, Patek manufactured fewer than ten, and John Lennon owned one of them.

Embedded in the bathroom mirror, there is also a handsome clock, supplying a bit of mechanical counterpoint to the stylishly decorated chamber. As is apparent, the owner and design team put a great deal of thought and heart into this hotel, all aimed to deliver maximum comfort of their guests.

You’ll find the chronometer theme expanded in the fifth-floor dining room, with its outdoor terrace, replete with panoramic views of the city, including the Pantheon.

The cocktail lounge, Santa Cocktail Club Rome, is located here, as well, and you’ll find that the drinks are artfully prepared with house-made reductions and fruity botanicals.

Enjoy a buzzy cocktail at sunset and when you come back in the morning for the plentiful breakfast buffet, you’ll discover the custom-crafted china, again, embellished with the watch theme. Against the snow-white, ceramic background, steel-gray numbers form staccato accents, with an occasional ebony cipher. The dinner plates sport a soft-gray clock face along the rim, inside the large “O” for L’Orologio. The design level is of the highest quality and the attention to detail is unsurpassed, whether in the dinner service or the ministrations of the staff-to organize custom tours for you or to even walk you across the street to the cash machine. Ask about the runners’ walking/jogging workout, an archeology and antiquities guided tour, a fashionista’s shopping extravaganza, or a film-location tour; or create your own guided day out, which the hotel will plan for you.

You will be pampered here, and suffice it to say, you’ll want time to stand still so you can stay forever-eternally cossetted in the Eternal City.

Additional info: hotelorologioroma.com

© 2024 Ruth J. Katz All Rights Reserved

The post Tempting Time: Hotel L’Orologio Roma appeared first on Traveling Archive.

I raise my baton to alert the orchestra that I am ready to conduct. In my best imposture of Gustavo Dudamel, I cue the woodwinds, then coax in the stringed instruments, and finally, I direct the brass-perching on the precipice and at the ready-to chime in. I punctuate my air-piercing baton-swirling, with a jab toward the timpani to elicit an emphatic beat. Smug and sly, I think that Felix Mendelssohn’s Italian Symphony never sounded so expressive. As if following my intensity, the surrounding chamber becomes enveloped in a saturated vermillion glow that melts into an intense violet, as I command the orchestra…and we sprint together to the end of the first movement.

Alas, I am conducting nary a human, but rather a dozen or so electronic totems, synced to the digital leger-de-main that is the underpinning of Leipzig’s Mendelssohn House Effektorium, a room for making virtual music. This is 21st-century, sophisticated child’s play: A dozen or so monolithic speakers (labeled appropriately, first violins, double basses, French horns, and so on), populate this symphony hall. You take your position at the lectern and then follow the snaking, red-line guide along the score; press the touchscreen, wield the baton to change tempo and tone, and suddenly you and your crop are Bernstein, Mehta, or, well, Maestro Mendelsson.

The meticulously restored Mendelssohn House in Leipzig is where the musical genius lived from 1845 until his death two years later; he was the Kapellmeister of the city’s renowned Gewandhaus Orchestra from 1835 to 1847. The museum opened in 1997 and is a major draw here, in a city legendary for its musical history. This charming municipality represents, though, merely one reason to visit the northeastern federal state of Saxony, in Germany.

Spread out over 7,000 square miles and bordered snugly to the east by the Czech Republic and Poland, and to the south, Bavaria, it is one of the smallest of the 16 federal states comprising Germany. But it is enviably bursting with compelling sites and sights to make it your next travel destination. Here is but a smattering of things to do and see in this inviting, remarkable region of Germany.

Among other draws, it is home to a veritable cornucopia — more than 150! — of palaces (schlösser), fortresses (festungen), stately mansions (herrenhäuser), and regal parks, such as Muskau Park, a stunningly bucolic UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Some of these edifices are virtual ruins, like the Dahlen Castle; some, a fascinating pile of rocks, as the spellbinding remains of Neurathen Castle (with rooms that had been cut into the stones); some are absolute fortresses, like Mylau Castle; and still others are overwhelmingly regal manses, such as the stately Dresden Castle and Leipzig’s elegant Gohlis Palace. Some are just for visiting, presenting interesting photo ops, while others are luxury hotels, and still others are homes to museums, such as the stately Augustusburg Palace, where I spent several hours in its amazing Motorcycle Museum: Spanning over 120 years of motorcycling history, the exhibits range from funky bicycles to exquisite, burnished-to-perfection Harley Davidsons.

Music is a hallmark of Saxony’s heritage, and the Leipzig Music Trail is a must for anyone who loves music. It is just over three miles long and heralds Telemann, Bach, Schumann, Wagner, Grieg, Janáček, and Mahler, among the many notable composers who worked or lived there. Stainless steel swirls-think the Nike swoosh on steroids-mark the spots (11 of them) in the cobbled pavement where you can stop, listen to recordings, and read about musical history.

Do not pass up a performance at the legendary, glass-facaded Gewandhaus. And, while in Leipzig, be sure to visit the Holocaust Memorial, consisting of 140 vacant bronze chairs — representing the 14,000 Jews who perished — built on the site where the city’s Grand Synagogue once stood.

Despite its devastation in WW II, Dresden, another touchstone in Saxony, has been rebuilt and you’d never know the extent of the destruction 75-plus years ago. No mention of Saxony is complete without an in-depth stay in charming, history-filled Dresden, including a lengthy visit to the world-renowned Green Vault, or the Grünes Gewölbe, comprising the Historic Green Vault (dripping in sumptuous Baroque ormolu and splendor) and the New Green Vault (with more traditional collections). Combined, here is one of the grandest collections of decorative arts, simply put, in all of Europe. Founded by Augustus the Strong in 1723, its exhibits include everything, ranging from Baroque to Classicism. You could drool over the art here for days.

Leave music and art (but not architecture) behind for the moment and enter the razzle-dazzle of Hollywood, when you visit the cinematic epicenter of Eastern Europe-Görliwood, the easternmost city in Germany, properly known as Görlitz. Countless films, including Inglourious Basterds, The Reader, The Book Thief, and The Grand Budapest Hotel, among the many, were all filmed right here.

For architecture buffs, this town is also home to more than 4,000 listed buildings and is considered Germany’s largest heritage area. Some religious sites: The Holy Sepulchre is the most faithful copy of the Jerusalem site. Amazingly, the Art Nouveau-styled Görlitz Synagogue, built at the beginning of the 20th century, survived Kristallnacht. Thereafter, however, with no congregation to tend to it, it fell into tragic disrepair. After a 10-million-Euro restoration, the synagogue reopened; on August 20, 2021, the first service in 80 years was held. Today, it houses modest but highly evocative and meaningful exhibits, showcasing personal artifacts and memorabilia that had once belonged to Jewish residents of Görlitz.

And, parenthetically, while you are in Görlitz, you can actually savor a tiny taste of Poland: Cross the Old Town Bridge, et voila! You are in Polska!

Another city worth at least a day of your time is the town of Seiffen. While it’s true that the internationally renowned German Christmas markets, in general, are among the most celebrated in the world, it is here in Seiffen that you’ll feel you as if you’ve entered the North Pole and Santa Land.

Seiffen boasts a blindingly festive, year-round Noel. This holiday-themed town, nestled in the Ore Mountains, was once the go-to site for silver- and tin-mining, but as supplies of those metals declined, residents turned to wood-carving and -turning. Dozens of shops vend all manner of traditional ornaments, including the ever-popular pyramids and arches, and, of course, the nutcracker, first created in the 17th century in Germany.

(There is even a nutcracker museum-ErstesNussknacker Museum-in Ergzebirge.) There are workshops where you can watch master woodworkers spin their magic or create your own ornaments.

A must in Seiffen: The traditional Neinerlaa Xmas Eve dinner, with its elaborate, sculpted platter, featuring little niches for, among the nine obligatory foods, bratwurst, dumplings, and sauerkraut.

Seiffen is also home to the Ore Mountain Open-Air Museum, an ethnographic exploration of rural life pre-1900, documenting and showcasing over a dozen types of rural homes from the region. It is adjacent to the Ore Mountain Toy Museum, a must-see. Unique to this area: Artisans turn circular wooden forms against a lathe and create miniature animals, smaller than a dime. This craft is known as Runddreherei, a form of very sophisticated and intricate woodturning and must be seen to be understood.

Not to be outshone by the splendor of Dresden, the musical heritage of Leipzig, the Christmas magic of Seiffen, and the glam of Görlitz, the town of Chemnitz is the third-largest city in Saxony and it, too, offers many sights. The Villa Esche, built by Belgian architect Henry van de Velde, was the home of the Herbert Esche family, and features a stunning meld of Belle Epoque and Art Nouveau styles, well worth swooning over. I could have spent all day in the Saxon Museum of Industry, located in a former foundry in Chemnitz. It brings machines and man together in unexpected ways, whether exploring vehicles or textiles.

I could go on about Saxony and its plethora of UNESCO World Heritage sites and parks, the Museum Gunzenhauser (with a collection of nearly 2,500 works of modern art), the fascinating Bach Museum, the Grassi Museum of Ethnology (among the extensive collections, hundreds of teacups!), and-for wristwatch aficionados-the manufactures of A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original, in the south. But, in truth, you just need to pack your bag and go! Willkommen!

For more info go to visitsaxony.com.

All photos courtesy of the author.
© 2024 Ruth J. Katz All Rights Reserved

The post The Splendors of Sensational Saxony appeared first on Traveling Archive.

The Corning Museum of Glass (located, as its name cunningly suggests, in Corning, NY, and referred to as CMoG), is a Mecca for all things glass. And after one experience within the campus footprint, the Make Your Own Glass experience, I was hooked. And so will you be, if you make the pilgrimage to this highly fascinating and educational Mecca.

The original CMoG structure, designed in 1951 by the renowned architect Wallace K. Harrison, has long been home to an exciting exhibit space, a formidable research library, a cutting-edge education center, and more. Today, however, having expanded dramatically over the years, the entire campus comprises a unique collection of award-winning, modern, glass structures, stretching over 10 acres and housing even more glass and glass-related archives, exhibition, and participatory programs.

The newest expansion includes The Studio, a state-of-the-art center for glass, glass, and more glass, including the Make Your Own Glass workshop, allowing devotees of silica and sand to explore not only glass blowing (make a flower, a pumpkin, a Christmas ornament!), but also fusing, sandblasting, flameworking, and other glass arts. (Prices for these hands-on experiences range from $15 to $150.)

The Studio, established in 1996 by CMoG, was then a 24,000-square-foot facility that soon garnered an international reputation and became a sought-after destination, offering instruction across a spectrum of techniques and skill levels, as well as residencies for artists, and rentals of furnace, kiln, and cold-working space and equipment. Enter StudioNEXT, a visionary project created to expand the facility’s footprint to a staggering 60,000 square feet and which transforms the already exciting and educational experience to a preeminent global center for artists and students of glass. The $55.3 million project is CMoG’s largest and most forward-looking initiative to date, underscoring the Museum’s commitment to glass as a major medium for contemporary artistic expression, doubling down on the Museum’s support for artists and designers who are innovating in glass.

The Studio offers instruction across a spectrum of techniques and skill levels, residencies for artists, and rentals of furnace, kiln, and cold-working space and equipment. By expanding and enhancing the infrastructure, this expansion creates the only facility in North America that can accommodate large-scale works in cast glass; deepens glassmaking educational programs for students of all levels; offers expanded residency opportunities; and serves many more visitors each day.

Over the years, CMoG has also assumed stewardship of the illustrious and historic Steuben art glass brand, and Corning still produces some select Steuben pieces; proceeds from the sale of Steuben pieces benefit the educational mission of the non-profit Museum. The historic ventilator building Steuben once inhabited, located on the CMoG campus, was renovated and repurposed as the 500-seat Amphitheater Hot Shop – one of the world’s largest space in which to watch live glassblowing demonstrations. Although no longer under the umbrella of the Corning Incorporated brand, the household name Pyrex, also, has its roots in the Corning community.

The Rakow Research Library includes world’s foremost archive and reference collection on the history of glassmaking. A center for scholarship, CMoG publishes glass-focused periodicals, books, DVDs, and exhibition catalogs.

Another jewel in the crown of CMoG is the collection itself, home to more than 50,000 extraordinary works in glass. Spanning the globe and encompassing more than 3,500 years of human ingenuity, the collection includes masterpieces from the great civilizations of ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome, as well as glass from other parts of Europe, the Far East/Asia, the Americas, and other far-flung melting pots of humanity.

Some of the highlights of the Museum’s 35 centuries of glass include:

• One of the earliest known glass portraits, a rare ancient glass sculpture of an Egyptian king, dating from the late 18th Dynasty, about 1450-1400 B.C.
• The earliest known example of an Islamic drinking horn (only two others are known)
• The Behaim beaker, a Venetian enameled glass that commemorates a marriage heldin 1495.
• One of the earliest known pieces of American glass, a covered tumbler produced at the factory of John Frederick Amelung.

Highlights of the contemporary art and design wing include:

• “The Continuous Mile,” a mile-long sculpture composed of over 4.5 million glass beads created by Liza Lou and more than 50 bead workers in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa.
• “Virtue of Blue,” a self-sustaining chandelier constructed completely out of blue solar panel butterflies

Some of my favorites among the more modern pieces include:

• Celebrated artist Lino Tagliapietra’s “Endeavor” installation is a seemingly in-flight flock of birds, or a graceful, gliding school of fish, or even a waltzing fleet of boats. It features a dozen-plus, colorful,glass swirls and swooshes, suspended from the ceiling. The viewer is metaphorically invited into it, to experience its movement, grace, weightlessness, and elegance

• Also suspended from the ceiling is Silvia Levenson’s “It’s Raining Knives,” an arresting forest of cast-glass knives, which are ground and polished to many a striking point!

• “Forest Glass” by Katherine Gray is composed of some 2,000 found glass objects – mostly tumblers of one form or another – that are arranged on clear shelves, forming three “trees,” recognizable by their brownish”trunks” and greenish, “leafy” canopies. The didactics adjacent to the piece state that the “The title refers to the Waldglas, translated from German as ‘forest glass,’ the typically dark green and brown glass made during the Middle Ages in northern and central Europe. The wood burned to fuel glass furnaces resulted in widespread deforestation. Here, Katherine Gray re-created trees out of the material that destroyed them – ‘recycling’ the trees with recycled glass.”

• Set against a backdrop (on the floor) of a flattened black and white schematic of the world, “Global Cities,” by Norwood Viviano, tells the story of global population change through the individual histories of 33 cities around the world.The bright blue top-like floating forms correlate to populations. It is a striking and evocative piece.
• Beth Lipman’s “All in All” is a typical tablescape for which the artist is known-blown glass forms are the fare of the tabletop – pre-historic plants comprise the design.
• “Lynx after a Sketchbook Page by Albrecht Dürer,” by Polish-born Marta Klonoska, employs thousands of pieces of cut glass, creating the “fur” of the lynx. He looks so cute you might want to pet him, but this lynx is more like a porcupine…and hands off, anyhow – you’re in a museum!
• A charming and inspired work, “108 Meditations in Saffron” by David Chatt is a vitrine assemblage of found objects, covered in intricate fiery-orange beading. Everyday objects – found tchotchkes, if you will – form the basis of this arresting agglomeration of mere stuff!

CMoG is committed to exploring glass in many ways and recently mounted an outstanding show, “Disclosure: The Whiteness of Glass,” which explored subtle racism within this ivory-tower pursuit. It was riveting and as a viewer, you were forced to ask uncomfortable questions and explore emotions.

Additionally, CMoG has a truly fabulous, 18,000-square-feet gift shop – think fine art objets along with gewgaws, fanciful “stuff,” sparkling jewelry, and utilitarian must-haves – that vends everything from books about glass, to ornaments, to functional and stunning or mundane and utilitarian tools. For your comfort, as well, there is a very decent restaurant and other visitor amenities.

Additional info: home.cmog.org
© 2024 Ruth J. Katz All Rights Reserved

The post Get Blown Away at the Corning Museum of Glass! appeared first on Traveling Archive.

By Ruth J. Katz

Photos provided by Regent Seven Seas Cruises

It’s hard to imagine that there is feverish activity below decks, while you are more or less inert, above deck, sunning languorously poolside, with a frothy, umbrella-adorned beverage in hand. Such is “the life” on deck 11, on an at-sea day on Regent Seven Seas Cruise Line’s stunningly appointed Explorer, with its exquisite décor—punctuated by its extensive, on-board art collection, valued at some $6 million. 

But, on levels one, two, and three, there is unremitting bustle, a floating beehive in perpetual motion.  Your seamless and cosseted experience is possible only because this well-oiled hospitality locomotive—comprised of both “machinery” that boasts DNA as well as inanimate machinery—is constantly rechoreographing its balletic acrobatics, reacting to guests’ needs and assuring their comfort and well-being. 

Your experience is not about the state-of-the art sundry engines and sophisticated equipment that chug along without your being aware of them and which contribute to your seamless journey.  But, more importantly, it’s about the 2,200-odd legs and arms that belong to a crew of more than 550, a cohesive corps who inherently want to spoil you and the other 745 passengers on board.

Among the upmarket cruise lines, Regent stands arguably alone when it comes to truly embodying the meaning of that “all inclusive” sales message: No tipping; no add-ons for alcohol (save, for example, for a Connoisseur Cognac Tasting); no fees for the more than 2,000 diverse shore excursions, in over 500 ports of call.  (NB:  There are some tariffs for a handful of over-the-top adventures.)

Always on the qui vive for enriching and previously-uncharted experiences for its customers (many of whom are brand-loyal to the core), Regent staff and its boots-on-the ground excursion partners plumb their imaginations and local geography and history to dazzle you with alluring excursion programs.  Recently added to the mix are Behind the Design Tours and Eco-Connect Tours, all touching on popular themes.

In keeping with the mantra that pampering knows no bounds for Regent guests (clients fly Business Class to and from their ships, on intercontinental flights from the U.S. and Canada), the 4,443-square-foot Regent Suite on the Explorer—the ne plus ultra cabin—is outfitted with a $150,000 Savoir No. 1 bed, which takes 120 man hours to hand-build, and which sports a mattress-topper lavishly layered with horse-tail hair, lambswool, pure cashmere, and even Mongolian yak hair. The company refers to its Regent Suites (one per vessel) as the most exclusive addresses at sea.

But even if you are not in a Penthouse Suite, outfitted with a pillow menu (gel, memory foam, down, buckwheat-hull—you get the idea), you will find luxury and service above your wildest expectations.

And while you slumber in comfort, that city that never sleeps below you is humming 24 hours a day: The engines, the mechanical systems, a desalinization plant, the laundry and dry cleaning plants, staff quarters, food and alcohol stores, butcher shops, galleys, room service staff, and crew-training facilities, are all purring efficiently, keeping everything ship-shape, just for you.

It is here in the wee hours of the morn that a half-dozen or so pastry chefs are knocking out thousands of rolls, croissants, brioches, muffins, donuts, Danishes, and even gluten-free breads for breakfast alone, while the crew in the laundry are washing and pressing thousands of napkins and tablecloths daily.  And the housekeeping staff are loading their carts with thousands of freshly laundered towels and getting ready to pounce like Ninjas to clean your suite after you have left for an excursion, and, of course, to replenish Nespresso pods and the L’Occitane Mer & Mistral line of toiletries in your marble-clad bath.

Multiple traffic cops and computer systems are in place to keep this human “appliance” waltzing smoothly, so that the many galleys are never bereft of, say, soy milk. During a typical seven-day cruise, more than 500 gallons of milk alone are consumed. In fact, on a galley tour, if you snoop around the refrigeration units, you’ll see they are filled with regular milk, heavy cream, half-and-half, 1% and 2% skimmed milk, regular skimmed milk, as well as almond and rice milks—maybe even a cow secreted away in the fridge.  On a typical seven-day cruise, the 82 galley chefs might blitz through 900 dozen eggs, 800 pounds of butter, 600 pounds of lobster, 700 pounds of cheese…and guests will consume 4,800 bottles of wine and nearly 1,000 bottles of Champagne!

Another fascinating aspect of the galley—and throughout the ship, in fact–is the separation of trash. Mindful of global ecology, Regent is striving to cease supplying guests with single-use plastics and in an effort to cut down on paper waste, the company has shifted paperwork to digital formats. In the galley, trash is scrupulously segregated:  Pulpable waste, shells and bones, plastic, cans, paper, non-pulpables, and so on, all have their own receptacles. And don’t think for a minute that the refuse you drop into your cabin garbage bin isn’t sorted.  Batteries, razor blades, plastics, are all separated.

But all these numbers and policies mean nothing, unless the services behind those facts and figures are delivered with a smile and style.  And, that they are. Regent is holistic in its approach to training staff and maintains a school in the Philippines, as well as a teaching facility on board. What is most important to the company, however, is to hire people who comprehend that they are the public ambassadors of the brand and its philosophy. Regent is committed to its mantra of serving guests with the utmost care, always remembering that they are the face of the company, and that the attention they give to details—anticipating and exceeding guests’ expectations—is Regent’s “normal.”  The crew, from nearly 50 countries—be it Kyrgyzstan or Mauritius—must love their jobs, as they repeatedly return to work on a Regent vessel.  Many have worked for the company a very long time, including Theodora, an employee in Prime 7 (the on-board steak house), who has been a Regent employee for more than 25 years.

You may well find that after your first Regent journey, you become just as regular a Regent devotee as its longtime employees and other guests. Bon voyage!

Regent’s six ocean-going vessels sail all year long, to seven continents, to more than 100   countries and 350 ports of call; more than 2,000 complimentary excursions are offered.  Average pricing for most Regent cruises starts at approximately $3,999 per person.

Additional Info: rssc.com

What Else is Cooking?

In between lazing about, eating, attending enrichment lectures, and heading shoreside for excursions, you will definitely want to save two hours for at least one of Explorer‘s Culinary Arts classes—assuming you can snag a place for these waiting-list-is-the-norm cooking classes. These hands-on, instruction-filled lessons were designed to enhance guests’ appreciation and understanding of a local port’s culture, history, and, of course, singular culinary profile. Taught in a state-of-the-art kitchen-classroom (deck 11, starboard, with sweeping, floor-to-ceiling window views), each student’s station is equipped with an induction cook stove, stainless steel sink, and quartzite work counter.  The program was designed by executive chef Kathryn Kelly, a graduate of and former instructor at the Culinary Institute of America. She first joined sister cruise line Oceania in 2011, when that company launched a highly successful seafaring cooking school on its Marina vessel. Regent’s classes include basics for those interested in things like knife skills, but the program excels at truly innovative, interesting classes, focused on ports of call…such as Epicurean Safari, which highlights delicious cuisine from Morocco, South Africa, and Namibia.  — RJK

© 2024 Ruth J. Katz   All Rights Reserved

The post Regent Seven Seas Cruises appeared first on Traveling Archive.

I woke from a deep, coma-like sleep.  Not entirely sure where I was…the celestial-looking ceiling above me seemed to ooze Heaven. Nimbus poufs of feathery clouds loomed languidly over my head…hints of statuary, or Cupids, or angelic cherubs, sketched in sorbet colors,floated gracefully on the canopy above my head.  Jet lag being what it is, it took me a few minutes to realize I was in a different kind of Heaven on Earth. I was in the Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese, floating on its signature-branded Sofitel MyBed, my body a limp whirl of protoplasm atop a bowl of weightless cotton candy!

As is fairly standard with an overnight flight from the States, I arrived in the early morn to the elegant, superbly located Sofitel, which was mercifully a mere half-hour from the airport. A stroke of luck—and it is rarely the case—the Foreign-Travel Fairy had somehow sprinkled her magic over the reservation roster for that day, and I was able to glide into my room early in the day, shower, and collapse—although I soaked up the stunning view from my room first.

The welcoming staff, perched behind two handsome, geometrically-carved, boulder-like desks, both burnished to gleaming perfection, had encouraged a snooze to re-energize my dazed circadian rhythm.

And I had followed that sound advice, but not before dipping my hand into a few of the clear glass goblets and apothecary-style chalices on the shelves in the intimate lobby,so I could swoop up a few Italian sweets. Then, I waltzed upstairs to my handsomely appointed chamber, where elegant, modern furniture beckoned: A dusty-gray-velvet recamier welcomed my luggage at the foot of the bed—such a refined resting spot for piles of clothing, as I fished for a sleep shirt. All this sophisticated design is from the artful hands of Jean Philippe Nuel, both architect and designer of the property.  He has sculpted a classy and classic masterpiece.  After dousing myself with the sweet-smelling Diptyque toiletries in the marble-clad shower, it was nap time. And sleep, I did.

This charming, five-star hotel is housed in a former 19th-century Roman palazzo, and is ideally located within walking distance of all that I wanted to drink in that first half-day, before I began serious sight-seeing and reacquainting myself with all that is Roman in my half-Italian blood.  Trevi Fountain, Villa Medici, the Spanish Steps (and all its glorious, adjacent shopping), and, of course, the splendor and majesty of the gardens of the Villa Borghese. (For sojourns farther afield, the Barberini metro station is just a six-minute stroll away.)

An intimate hotel by most yardsticks (71 rooms and seven suites), it still offers the more grandiose (included with your tariff) breakfasts Americans have come to expect in Europe, where lavish spreads overwhelm…what shall I have first?  The French toast?  The waffles?  The pancakes?  A custom-crafted omelette?  Cereals? Healthy, home-crafted yogurt, berries, and grains?  Or sinful pastries? No matter what you select for breakfast, your meal will be all the more enhanced and enjoyed because you’ll be dining in the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, Settimo, with a 360-degree view, including St. Peter’s Basilica, the Villa Borghese gardens, and those famous pines of Rome.

The mosaic-laden floor is awash with large botanically inspired garden motifs, created with chunky,stone inlays, in earth tones of raw umber, burnt sienna, and chestnut, or ofsage, pine, celadon, loden, and sea foam.  The lush fabrics on the chairs—saturated turquoise velvet accented with more lavish, forest-green florals-on-steroids—are all complimented by actual foliage. Even the hanging, lantern-style, indoor lighting fixtures are covered in cannon-shaped shades, florid with floral and leafy motifs. If you’re fortunate, you can snag an outdoor table and drink in all that Roman scenery, along with a high-octane shot of espresso to kick off the morning.

If you are enjoying La Dolce Vita completely, then allow that crackerjack staff at the front desk plan your days:  There are family packages available that include gladiator school, gelato workshops, horseback riding, and stargazing like a Roman astronomer; or ask about the hotel’s multi-day foodie tour, created with Lauren Caramico of Davvero Rome, one of the city’s leading culinary influencers and tour guides. Some of the days’ activities in that package might include truffle-hunting, kayaking, or wine-tasting. The hotel can also arrange for private city tours, in a vintage Fiat on the back of a Vespa (I did this and I loved both the Vespa and the guy driving it!).  For fashionista and culinary devotees, there are individualized tours, highlighting shopping and wardrobe-styling (for men and women)a la Romagna, or yoga among the ruins, or cooking classes, among the custom-crafted excursions.Ask about the film-inspired sightseeing tour (think “Roman Holiday,”“Angels and Demons”, and, of course, “La Dolce Vita,” among the many celluloid visions of Rome). There are even special packages for you and your four-legged BFF (Bark in the Park, is a picnic in the Villa Borghese garden; there is also ozone bath therapy Fido and dog-sitters available around the clock.

At the end of the day, though, you’ll be thrilled to return to Settimo, to enjoy sunset and a sun downer. The trip up to the seventh floor is in an elevator that is about as good as an elevator can get, anywhere, courtesy of a fantasy garden on the walls: Floor-to-ceiling floral prints, walls awash with trellises and oversize, lavish, grandiose flowers.I wish I could have had more than two dinners at Settimo, as there was so much more I wanted to sample, but suffice it to say, everything I ate was toothsome, savory, and satisfying.  A lovely menu is available for that aperitivo and dinner, as well.  A sampling of dinner fare: Crispy tuna millefeuille with avocado cream, red radish, and accented with aged Modena balsamic vinegar; velvety Romanesco courgettes, bread crumbs, and toasted almonds; Roman saltimbocca veal fillet, pan-fried with chicory and stewed onions.  And top it off with a cherry crème brulée or traditional tiramisù with crunchy chocolate.  No matter what you order, it will be a winner.

Regardless of how many nights you stay, you’ll want more. This is a tribute to the comfortable, but detail-oriented, service delivered by the attentive and caring staff—and by those angels on the ceiling in your room.

Additional info:  sofitelrome.com

©   Ruth J. Katz  2024  All Rights Reserved

The post Escape to the Glorious Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese appeared first on Traveling Archive.

I’m thinking about plastic surgery.

Let’s just say that after drinking the water at the celebrated Ponce de Leon Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, I didn’t achieve the “as-advertised” (OK, truth be told, the “as-hoped-for”) miraculous transformation to blushing, youthful skin. But, let me quickly add, that this Fountain of Youth is, without a doubt, the only thing that disappoints in picturesque, moss-draped St. Augustine. (And on the plus side, Ponce de Leon’s park offers other activities—and also is home to a harem of sartorial peacocks, who entertain, as they strut and prance freely.)

Part of Florida’s Historic Coast, this city of 15,000 is a treasure, indeed. And, assuredly, if you are looking for beaches, well, you’ll find 42 miles of pristine sandy oceanfront (including two destination surfing beaches) and the usual sun and fun activities to bask in. But, let me quickly note, if you are considering going to St. Augustine for a long weekend, just for that tropical get-away, let me encourage you to think again: You will want at least five days or even a week here; there is simply too much culture and history to pack into a three-day weekend.

Founded in 1565 by Pedro Menendez de Aviles from Spain, it is the oldest, continually-inhabited, European-founded city in the country (simply referred to as America’s oldest city), and, as such, its 450-year existence offers an embarrassment of rich—and oft surprising—history, art, and culture, all of which will captivate.

It was, not surprisingly, the vacation destination for the wealthy Yanks of the Gilded Age, and as a result, there is a plethora of 19th-century art and architecture, inducing the largest collection of Tiffany-stained glass (79 windows) in the world that has remained in its original location.

This is thanks to industrialist Henry Flagler, who built two stunning hotels here, the Hotel Ponce de León (1888, housing said Tiffany glass), now a residence hall and the central pulse of Flagler College, and the Hotel Alcazar, an 1888 Gilded Age resort hotel, now home to the must-see Lightner Museum, steward to 15,000 decorative objects. (And where you can dine in the former hotel’s now-empty swimming pool, which at the time of its construction, was the largest, grandest indoor swimming “hole” in the country.)

And a propos dining—exploration of the dining scene is yet another reason to linger in St. Augustine. Rated number one in Southern Living magazine’s discerning rundown of the South’s Best Food Towns in 2019, it offers a smorgasbord of tantalizing cuisine—from the fine (Michael’s and Preserved, for example) to the fun and flavorful (Casa Reina), to the funky (Crave and The Hyppo Gourmet Ice Pops). The latter is a veritable mecca, serving up more than 250 flavors of ice pops—think of crazy flavors like Avocado Mint—for the passionate pop aficionado, and, psst—the company ships all over the US.

For history buffs, there are many “firsts” and “oldests” here and you’d be wise to save at least two days for touring some of them: Combine history and shopping on America’s oldest street, Aviles Street, with its ancient brick walkways (archaeologists actually discovered pottery shards from the early 1600s when they dug down a few layers), charming boutiques, and artists’ galleries; for the sheer graceful serenity of its Spanish Moss cathedral-like canopy, have a look-see at Magnolia Avenue; St. George Street in the Historic District offers sights that include the old city gates, the Oldest Wooden School House, the Peña-Peck House (with its handsomely preserved and restored rooms), built in 1750 as the home of the Royal Treasurer, Juan Estevan de Peña.

Just as an aside, in case the kids are eager for a diversion from history—but not for the faint of heart–there is the Medieval Torture Museum. A side note—the first Ripley’s Believe it Or Not is located in St. Augustine, but you’ll find far more interesting and educational attractions to occupy your time.

Among the “more worthy” sights is a plethora of amazing—both architecturally and historically—churches, notable homes, and historic landmarks. Among them, St. Photios Greek Orthodox National Shrine, a veritable gem, replete with stunning mosaics, a domed chapel, exquisite painting. Perhaps it is a bit of little-known history that St. Augustine reflects not merely Spanish and British settlement and rule, but also embodies a significant heritage and influence from Greeks and Menorcans, who came here hundreds of years ago—generally as laborers or indentured servants.

Some of the historic homes and institutions you’ll want to drink in include the Mission Nombre de Dios and the Shrine of Our Lady of La Leche first mission and site of the first Mass; the Father Miguel O’Reilly House Museum (1691), home to the Catholic Diocese archives and the oldest collection of Colonial-period documents; Gonzalez Alvarez House, the oldest surviving Spanish colonial dwelling in St. Augustine, and a National Historic Landmark; the outrageously Moorish/Spanish Revival-style Villa Zorayda, the winter residence of Boston hardware merchant Franklin Webster Smith; the Ximemez-Fatio House (1798, and sporting the ever-present, local coquina stone), is listed in the National Register of Historic Places and the Historic American Buildings Survey. It is worth noting that many buildings in the Historic District have a chunk of their facades removed, exposing the original coquina stone below.

As you might guess, military history figures significantly in St. Augustine’s past: Extraordinary forts include the Castillo de San Marcos, the oldest masonry fort in the continental United State; Fort Matanzas, built in 1742 by the Spanish, and, also, a National Historic Monument; Fort Mose Historic State Park is the site of the first legally sanctioned, free African settlement, established in 1738.

It is worth noting that there is—most likely an astonishing fact to learn—a great deal of Black and civil rights history entrenched in the area. While Selma and Montgomery are often thought of as seminal locations where civil rights battles took please, there is surprisingly a great deal of civil rights history right here—in both the Lincolnville Museum and Cultural Center and the ACCORD Civil Rights Museum.

The former is an African-American history museum located in the Lincolnville neighborhood, housed in the historic Excelsior School Building, which served as the first public Black high school in St. Johns County in 1925. The ACCORD is the first civil rights museum in Florida, opened in July, 2014, and also in the Lincolnville neighborhood. The museum showcases exhibits, articles, stories, and artifacts that recount the personal histories of the unsung heroes of the local 1960s’ civil rights movement, including artifacts from Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.’s stay in St. Augustine.

Not incidentally, I learned in the museum that Juan Garrido was the first known African in America, in 1513 and the birth of the first Black child is recorded here in 1606 in the Cathedral Parish Archives, 13 years before it is generally agreed that the first Black people arrived in the New World, in Jamestown in 1619.

Another tidbit that might be news to a Northerner, which I picked up in the Lincolnville Museum: The June 19, 1964, issue of The New York Times reports, on the front page, that 16 rabbis, along with a contingent from New York, were arrested in St. Augustine, as they attempted to integrate the restaurant at the Monson Motor Lodge, and mayhem ensued, including the attempt to integrate the swimming pool, while the hotel manager poured muriatic acid into the pool!

If I have not convinced you that St. Augustine needs to be on your bucket list, here are a few more inducements: The St. Augustine Lighthouse & Maritime Museum is a working, black-and-white-candy-cane-striped lighthouse, built between 1871 and 1874.

And if water is your playground, then know that the Atlantic is not your only choice for watersports—if you seek out kayaking or canoeing, try the Matanzas River and the Matanzas Bay. You’ll not want for parks, either—Anastasia State Park offers more than 1,600 acres of beaches, tidal marches, and ancient sand dunes for hiking and exploration and Alpine Groves Park, overlooking the St. Johns River, is a designated destination on the Great Florida Birding Trail.

Let me also underscore that there are countless local festivals that dot the 2023 calendar, including Sing Out Loud; Whiskey, Wine & Wildlife, a four-day celebration; and the St. Augustine Music Festival, among the many that you can rely on as an anchor for your visit. Coming up in a few weeks is the St. Augustine Food + Wine Festival (May 3-7).

Where to Stay

The Collector Luxury Inn & Gardens (adults only) is well-situated and features 30 appealing rooms—all different—in a delightful enclave off the main drag.

Located on the site of the former Dow Museum of Historic Houses, the one-acre plot is home to nine guest houses, dating from 1790 to 1910. General Manager Charles Robles could not have been more accommodating—he even brought out a 20″-long wire-cutter to disengage my jammed TSA-approved lock from my suitcase. Seriously.

Additional info: www.historiccoastculture.com
All photos courtesy of the St. Johns Cultural Council, unless indicated otherwise.

© 2023 Ruth J. Katz All Rights Reserved

The post St. Augustine: A Sunny, Satiating Southern Surprise appeared first on Traveling Archive.

A highly educated ethno-historian and archaeologist, she received her Bachelor in Business Administration from the Instituto Tecnológico de Estudios Superiores de Monterrey; she first worked as a banker, before her true calling caused her to leave the business world.  She pursued a second Bachelor’s in Anthropology with a specialty in Archaeology and also took her Master’s in Ethnohistory, both from the Universidad Autónoma de Yucatán; ultimately, she got her Doctorate in History, awarded by the Centro de Investigación de Estudios Superiores en Antropología Social.

Marina’s true love and her gift lay in the cultures of her native country and she revels in finding a way to share them with the world. Her contagious fervor for history and culture may well have filtered down to her from her grandfather, Porfirio Aguirre Dircio, a renowned archaeologist, who made the discovery of a remarkable turquoise-encrusted funeral mask, which was acquired by the Museo Nacional de Antropología in Mexico City; some dozen years ago, a scientific study was performed on the artifact and it was determined that the mask itself was likely from 300 AD and the decorative turquoise stones were likely added in 900 AD, cementing the validity of his find and his name.

Among other inspirations, it was her grandfather’s appetite for knowledge regarding the Spanish traditions of 19th century Mexico and its history and culture that imbued her with her fervor; it was because of his influence, she says, that as a child, she painted her bedroom with a cosmos reflecting pre-Colombian art. She is quick to point out on her guided tours, the abundant, colorful murals, painted by artists who may not even be able to read. She underscores that their fiery spirit is entrenched in their artistic output and she tries to convey that zealousness to her groups. “It is very important to me to share this vibrant artwork, in these magical villages.  Art lives in people as well as in artifacts and I want to convey that concept on my tours — by experiencing historic city or village centers, going to charming restaurants, visiting private studios and artists’ ateliers, and in every way we can, soaking up the local culture.”

Marina says she has had hundreds of participants on her tours, and many, many are repeat customers, so enthralled are they with her insider-y and informative excursions and by her infectious warmth and kindness. With the tour size restricted to 16 (so that the group fits comfortably in a minivan, which is about as a large a vehicle as she and her driver like to take into small towns with narrow streets), the groups are intimate and collegial. And her journeys are priced extraordinarily reasonably, always including centrally located hotels (with breakfast—and the amenities that she knows are vital today, including Wifi) and some additional meals, transfers, museum admissions, and so on. Participants are free to dine most evenings on their own and, of course, gratuities and incidentals are not included.

“Wherever we went, Marina knew all the locals, even the mayor, and so you share a very welcoming experience, and you also travel to places where you are the only tourists!” So remarked Anne Frej, a veteran — along with her husband, Bill — of several of Marina’s tours; the Frejs are seasoned global citizens, having lived overseas for nearly 30 years, while Bill was a diplomat working for the US Agency for International Development. As a veteran traveler, Anne’s comments are all the more weighty, as she acknowledges what a special experience it is to travel with Marina. “Needless to say, in any foreign country, it’s always best to travel with a native. Because Marina is both an anthropologist and a historian, and is knowledgeable and passionate about the cultures of Mexico, her commentary is rich and detailed. Additionally, she puts an enormous amount of effort into her trips, picking out ideally situated hotels, making perfect suggestions for restaurants, and taking the group to interesting artists’ and craftsmen’s workshops.”

The Frejs will be taking off again with Marina in the fall, when she leads a trip specifically designed for the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, which is offering a singular journey, México Mágico: Magical Mexico City, created specifically for the Friends of the Folk Art. This is but one of Marina’s custom-crafted excursions which she designs for groups with very particular interests — in addition to her regular offerings — working closely with an organization and catering to its members’ unique interests. (Marina also does private tours for as few as four, or even two, people.) One such recent trip was for the Spanish Colonial Arts Society, which focused on architecture and church design.

Monroe Warshaw, a New York City-based drawings dealer, recently did back-to-back trips with Marina and has signed up for yet another this fall. “Marina manages to time her trips to take in so many interesting, fascinating local festivals — like the Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos) — in Oaxaca. It is a spectacular event, with the entire town remembering deceased loved ones, and characterized by joy, not sadness.” Indeed, the Day of the Dead is a colorful, carnival-like happening, with residents preparing for it weeks ahead of time — with all of the town creating souvenirs, costumes, masks, and religious artifacts, for use in the festival parade, for sale, for show.

Among Marina’s upcoming journeys for the fall and into 2018 are the following:

Querétaro & San Luis Potosí (Sept 28-Oct 6)

This tour, which Marina refers to as “nine mystical days,” focuses on the magic of the indigenous people in Mexico’s ancestral culture. Tequisquiapan, a mere two hours from Mexico City, is becoming a popular weekend getaway destination.  It features architecture that is an unusual blend of colonial and indigenous styles and its cobble-stone streets are dotted with interesting shops offering native jewelry, various wicker-work items, and folk art. Home to Bernal’s Peak, the largest monolith in México (and the third largest in the world), is the Pueblo Magico, Villa de San Bernal, which also has charming shops selling dolls and handsome woolen products. Xilitla, surrounded by an exquisite rainforest landscape, is home to the Nahuatl and the Teenek, both indigenous peoples who still practice many of their traditional ways; it is also home to the 80-acre Las Pozas sculpture garden. San Luis Potosí, steeped in history, played a seminal role in the Mexican Revolution, and is rife with exquisite colonial architecture, parks, and an active cultural scene. Real de Catorce, once a thriving silver mining town in the high desert, is now a “‘ghost town” with a population of around 1,000; it continues to be a pilgrimage site for the Huicholes and is thought to be a place of power with a spiritual energy.

Oaxaca and Puebla for Day of the Dead (Oct 27-Nov 4)

Oaxaca is a unique, lively colonial city where two major cultures come together, the Mixtec and the Zapotec, both inspirational.  Oaxaca is rich in the native alebrijes, fanciful, colorful creatures, traditionally papier-maché, but here, they are carved from wood.  The city is rich in flavored mezcal and heady with the aroma of chocolate. The local markets sell brightly-hued textiles and the shops and pushcarts will feature countless artifacts and trinkets relating to the Day of the Dead… even black-and-white marshmallow-like candies. The trip also includes visits to some remarkable architectural sites.

Carnival in Chiapas (February 6-14, 2018)

Chiapas is alive with rainbows of pigment everywhere — and it pulsates spirituality and culturally, and is graced with wonderfully warm citizens. “The first time I visited Chiapas, I fell in love with it,” comments Marina. “Since then, I have been showing all the unique places in the area to my tour participants.  I love sharing this region.” The tour takes in four archaeological sites with incomparable beauty: Edzná, Palenque, Bonampak, and Yaxchilán. Carnival is experienced in four indigenous villages: Zinacantán, Huixtán, Tenejapa, and San Juan Chamula. In addition, there are museums to visit that specialize in textiles, traditional medicine, archaeology, and history. Among other highlights is the city of San Cristóbal de las Casas, a stunning colonial city, as well as a visit with a family in the Lacandona jungle, providing an opportunity to learn about lives that are likely diametrically unlike yours.

The Monarchs (Feb 24-Mar 4, 2018)

This is perhaps Marina’s most popular trip—and it is not about kings and queens. In early fall, each year, millions upon millions of Monarch butterflies leave southern Canada and the United States and head to the central highlands of Mexico, traveling well over 2,500 miles.  After their November arrival, they winter in Mexico and turn around in March, and return north by July.  In order to protect the butterflies, the region in Mexico that the Monarchs call home for several months has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Four generations of Monarchs are involved in a round-trip migration.  This trip includes a visit to three different sanctuaries at the famed Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve, a trip to the colonial city of Morelia, visits to five pueblos mágicos, experiencing their architecture, textiles, and flavors.  There are also visits to Lake Pátzcuaro, the Paricutin Volcano, and to local folk artists.

The Textiles of Oaxaca & Chiapas / Reflections in Diversity: Exploring Culture through Textiles (June 16-26 and July 14-24, 2018)

Due to an anticipated high demand for this new experience, Marina is offering two tours next year with a focus on clothing and textiles. Both include visits to Oaxaca and Chiapas; the visits to these two cities will be similar, save that the festivals experienced with each tour will be different.  There will be marketplace and gallery visits, trips to two distinctly different colonial cities, with a focus on textiles, dyes, spinning, and weaving styles — and each visit will include a hands-on experience, so that participants will have an opportunity to actually weave a personal textile. Villages that are but a few miles apart often have vastly diverse and very particular cultures, reflected in the colors and styles of their clothing and textiles. And on the other hand, as Marina points out, “Although they live hundreds of miles apart and belong to two different cultures, Zapotec and Mayan, have many similarities in their textiles; the differences will be in the way they create their own worlds through their designs.”

In Marina’s words: “Even though the women spend hours and hours working at home weaving masterpieces of high quality and sublime beauty, most of these pieces are sold for almost nothing. Your valuing the pieces and the time it takes to weave them is a great opportunity to give to the ladies hope and strength. They will be able to continue to preserve a treasure that has been in danger for generations.”

THE DETAILS:  marinainmexico.com; 011 52 (999) 923 0870; ma********@*****il.com

Marina Aguirre de Samaniego
Calle 74 A no. 484 B between 55 and 57 / Col. Centro, Mérida, Yucatán / México

The very reasonably priced Marina in Mexico Tours are usually nine to eleven days; they range in approximate price from US $1,300 to $2,000 and include all lodging (based on double occupancy); breakfast in the hotel; transfers to and from the airport; in-tour transportation; and some meals.  However, participants should plan on the additional cost of most meals, gratuities, laundry, phone calls, and miscellaneous.

© Ruth J. Katz 2017  All Rights Reserved

The post Marina in Mexico: An Insider’s Guide to History, Culture, and the Arts appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Ying Luck was hungry.  She knew that when she arrived at the dining room terrace at the Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort her cuteness alone would be rewarded with a scrumptious snack.  Every morning at around 8 a.m., this youthful, diminutive five-year-old, along with her ever-watchful and devoted mahout, lumbers to the restaurant patio where the staff has put out an elephant-size basket of bananas and eager hotel guests vie to pose for pictures with this charming and accommodating pachyderm and vie to feed her.

Ying Luck is but one of some 20 elephants here (along with 26 mahouts and their families), who reside in the elephant camp, having been rescued from other parts of the country, or having been retired from “work.” (In 1989, the Thai government banned logging in protected areas and a side effect of that ban was that many elephants who had worked for years in the logging industry—whether judged right or wrong by Western standards—found themselves “unemployed” and in need of rescue.  Their mahouts now must provide for both the elephants and their own families.  (Elephants can easily live 50 to 70 years, so it is vital that they have a safe sanctuary where they can spend those years.)

Thus it is that Ying Luck and some of her sisters — Pohmpoey, Mina, and Lakh An, to name but three of the “girls” — all find themselves in Camp Dara, designed as a traditional mahout village. They are the star attraction and visitors to this Anantara property can interact with them daily. Elephant-related activities are only one category of experience offered at this property; there are many things to do both on- and off-campus, despite the fact that the resort feels as if it is in the middle of an ever-verdant forest.

Perched on a ridge overlooking the hills of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos, and at the convergence of the Ruak and the Mekong Rivers, the 160-acre property provides a window to the breathtaking panorama of verdant, wild, and untamed nature — bamboo forest, rice paddies, and the jungles on the hillside.  And that “window” is not necessarily a glass window — the resort is, as are so many in the tropics, open-air — and thusly offers a picture-postcard, up-close vista no matter what direction you face.  The rich, burnished-wooden floors and furniture along with the rattan and wicker accessories, accented by native-print textiles, reinforce the Eastern mood. The staff’s warmth and graciousness will quickly envelop you, another Eastern hallmark. It is no wonder that in 2016’s Condé Nast Traveler‘s Readers’ Choice Awards, this resort was ranked sixth out of 40 in the Top Resorts in Asia category.

The cossetting hands of the Anantara employees are ever-present at all of the company’s nearly 40 hotels, known for superlative service and exquisite settings.  On staff, also, are gurus who can attend to specific needs, even down to what kind of soap you might want to use — to be blissed out or energized, you can choose from vetiver, cedar wood, ginger flower, or patchouli — or what kind of pillow you require to fall lazily into the arms of Morpheus.

Anantara is the five-star hotel group of the Thailand-based Minor Corporation, which also has four other hotel brands, with properties on five continents.  Founder William Heinecke, the son of a US foreign service official, is Wisconsin-born and Thai-bred; he left home at 17 and started a business in Bangkok, and because he was too young to sign legal documents, he dubbed his fledgling operation the Minor Corporation. Today it is one of the largest hospitality and food conglomerates in Asia, boasting a network of some 2,000 eateries and hundreds of retail stores, in addition to its 150-plus hotels.  Anantara knows how to put a capital “H” in hospitality and dot the “i” in service.

This property offers a Discovery Experience package that provides for, in addition to three daily meals (as well as in-room dining and mini-bar), WiFi, nearby museum admission, and best of all, a major activity each day.  The latter might include a spa package for an unparalleled half-day, sybaritic experience; a Spice Spoons cooking class, which might also include a morning trip to the market, to purchase ingredients, and then preparation/cooking at your own station, under the watchful eye of the chef; an “elephant experience,” which might be the E.L.E. Elephant Learning Program, or the Mahout Training Class, or Walking with the Giants; and, lastly, an outing into Myanmar and Laos, on the Golden Triangle Discovery Excursion.

The Discovery Excursions provide for a car, driver, and an experienced guide, as needed.  Some of the excursions are “do-it-yourself,” and might include a car hop across the road to the intriguing and educational Hall of Opium Museum, which should not be missed.  The story of opium is recounted through a native lens, not Western opprobrium, and highlights how this area became ground zero for the poppy’s treacherous lure and the nexus for its spread. Built to instruct, museum’s entertaining and educational exhibitions trace opium’s history through 5,000 years.

An outing worth taking is the day trip that includes dipping a toe into Laos and Myanmar; the former is accessible via longtail boat (no visa required) to Don Sao Island in the Mekong, and the latter is reached by crossing a colorful bridge by foot, connecting Mae Sai in Thailand with Myawaddy in Myanmar with. You’ll want to spend more time in Myanmar, as you no sooner cross the bridge and fall into the Shan Market (exotic fruits and vegetables) and then navigate the overwhelming shopping market of stalls and shops, carrying everything and anything you might ever want.  My “gal pals” and I did major retail damage here and came back to Anantara giddy with the exhilaration of the high resulting from scoring well-bargained-for treasures.  We rewarded ourselves with intriguing cocktails, nursed indolently on the Anantara terrace, overlooking lush bamboo woodlands.

There are also other outings that are fascinating in different ways:  It is a ten-minute trip to Chiang Saen, the former capital of Thailand’s ancient Lanna Kingdom, where ancient city walls, dating back to the twelfth century, as well as many temple ruins and relics remain.  Farther afield is a trip to Wat Rong Khun, known as the White Temple, the work of artist Chaloemchai Khositphiphat, who has created this ornate, bleached-looking structure, that appears as if it were a dripping gingerbread cake, swathed in snow, rising from the earth.

When you visit the Doi Tung Royal Villa, dress with your arms covered and don’t come clad in short shorts, or you’ll be given a giant denim skirt and oversize jacket to swathe around your flesh. The villa was built in the Lanna and Swiss architectural styles—this Swiss-chalet-looking edifice appears rather incongruous in the middle of Thailand.  It was the residence of Her (late) Royal Highness Princess Srinakarindra, the Princess Mother, and her daughter and granddaughter.  The walls of the great hall are covered in stunning Thai silk which is embroidered lavishly and the ceiling is awash with the night sky, replete with the constellations, as they were on the night of her birth in 1900.

Another must-see is the Mae Fah Luang Garden, which, along with the palace, are among the most visited attractions in the Chiang Rai province. The gardens, ten acres of riots of color, are spectacular.  Our guide told us that the grounds — featuring everything from dahlia, magnolia, petunia, azalea, geranium, pansy, morning glory to a rock garden, a water garden, an orchid house, and a palm garden — are replanted every few months, guaranteeing that they are always in full bloom. Wherever you are, look for a Doi Tung Cottage Industry shop, a pet project of the Princess Mother, which encourages the production of native crafts of the highest quality, ensuring income for many villages.  The handmade mulberry papers, exquisitely woven shawls and home furnishings, along with pottery and other crafts, will be treasured souvenirs when you bring them home.

Back at the Anantara campus, consider trying to take all three elephant activities if you are there long enough; they are included in the Discovery Experience. Walking with the Giants will get you up at the crack of dawn to stroll in the forest with the elephants and their mahouts, as the gentle giants splash in the river, cavort in the mud, and snack on plums and leaves, while you learn about elephants from the resident veterinarian or the property’s biologist. The Mahout Experience is a hands-on learning session, observing and practicing, as a mahout trainee, the 70 commands and touches the mahouts use to guide their charges to respond. The E.L.E. Learning Experience focuses on elephant biology, behavior, and conservation.

One other wonderful experience, unique to Anantara and yet different in every property is the Dining by Design option.  At the Golden Triangle, it might include a sit-down dinner in a rice paddy, with a few visiting elephants, and savoring a banquet of local specialties, as two chefs cook in the open-air kitchen.  It is a night to remember, as are all the experiences at this very magical, special slice of heaven.

The Details:

For information on this resort and other Anantara properties, call 844-646-6724

To read about the Anantara Riverside Hotel in Bangkok, click here and here.

EVA Air has several beautiful, comfortable lounges in the Taipei, Taiwan (your stopover), all with flavorsome Eastern and Western cuisine and gracious amenities geared to a sleepy traveler. Cabin service includes five classes — Royal Laurel, Premium Laurel, Business Class, Elite Class, and Economy Class.  800-695-1188

© Ruth J. Katz 2017 All Rights Reserved

The post The Golden Glow of the Golden Triangle at the Anantara Resort appeared first on Traveling Archive.

They were figuratively today’s K-pop BTS group or the Backstreet Boys, but of the late1920s and early ’30s in Europe. No, the world.  This German sensation, the Comedian Harmonists, performed at Carnegie Hall on December 16, 1933, and it is with a recreation of that night’s Gotham gala that this musical—Harmony: A New Musical, the story of their rise and demise, both personal and professional—opens; it is the retelling of their history. After the Carnegie Hall opening sequence, the musical then zips into flashbacks, as their lives unfurl in music and dance. While they were headliners in their own right, the group was also a much-in-demand, popular opening act for the likes of Josephine Baker and Marlene Dietrich. They sold millions of records and made more than a half-dozen films.

In a word: They were something, with a capital S. A combo of flashy, euphonic harmonies and comedic antics that catapulted them to fame, not only in their native Eastern European environs, but internationally, as well. And because of their celebrity status—at least for a while—they were allowed to skirt the restrictive Nuremberg Laws that stripped Jews of many “privileges.” (Two of the six members were Jewish, one had married a Jewish woman, and a fourth had somewhat secreted, but nonetheless, Jewish bloodlines, as defined by Hitler’s standards.) But not for that long.  As the louche and anything-goes salad days of the Weimar Republic dimmed, only to collide with the suffocating laws of the Third Reich, their performance days were, in a word, kaput.

The tales of their lives and short-lived career has been the subject of documentaries, a film, a play, and a book, as well as other tributes.  But, they get the royal treatment here in Harmony, thanks to Barry Manilow (music), his longstanding collaborator, Charles Sussman (book and lyrics), and Warren Carlyle, the Tony Award-winning director and choreographer. The show is presented by the National Yiddish Theatre Folksbiene (NYTF), the folks who brought us the amazing and highly acclaimed Fiddler on the Roof in Yiddish. For the record, the Folksbiene is now in its 107th season, making it the longest consecutively-producing theater in the States, and not insignificantly, the world’s oldest continuously-operating Yiddish theater company.  Harmony is being presented in the same location as Fiddler, in downtown Manhattan’s Museum of Jewish Heritage – A Living Memorial to the Holocaust, staged in the intimate Edmond J. Safra Hall. So, if you are going to be in Manhattan any time in the next month or so, snag a pair of tickets, as the show is selling out quickly.

I had seen a documentary about the Comedian Harmonists many moons ago, and so I was quite eager to experience this show, with its tuneful music that retells such a fascinating, albeit slender, slice of history. Manilow and Sussman had been kicking this story around for nearly three decades and had opened a version of this show some 25 years ago at the La Jolla Playhouse, and then the team took it out of mothballs in 2014 for runs in Los Angeles and in Atlanta. You might just say that for the creative team, this was, and still is, a passion project.

And your seeing it may just be an act of passion, too, as you’ll likely fall in love with the six Comedian Harmonists:  Playing the “boys” is a qualified cadre of youthful theater veterans, with diverse credits in their bios: The group’s de facto leader is tenor buffo Zal Owen, playing Harry Fromermann, whose bright idea it is to try to put together such a group; portraying the role of Roman Cycowski, aka  “Rabbi,” (who was, in actuality, a trained cantor, hailing from Poland), is the group’s pivot personality, a relative newcomer, Danny Kornfeld; the first tenor, from Bulgaria, was Ari “Lesh” Leschnikoff, embodied by Steven Telsey; the second tenor and a medical school dropout (and the closeted Jew) is Erich Collin, played by Eric Peter; Sean Bell takes on the role of bass Robert Biberti; cozily taking on the role of the group’s pianist, Erwin Bootz, is Blake Roman. Bootz had been playing piano in a seedy burlesque hall, it would appear, and because of his nimble fingers on the ivories, he was affectionately dubbed “Chopin” by his fellow performers.

Key female roles include the alluring Sierra Bogess, as Rabbi’s girlfriend, then wife, Mary; talented Jessie Davidson, as Ruth, Harry’s wife; and Ana Hoffman in a dishy portrayal of Josephine Baker. The glue to the entire show is celebrated Broadway veteran Chip Zien, who plays the older incarnation of Rabbi, looking back on their enmeshed lives and the group’s career.  He takes on other wacky and wise roles in the show….slipping into and out of wigs and outfits that have him tricked out as, among several cameos, Albert Einstein and—wait for it—Marlene Dietrich.

The gifted Manilow has created a lovely songbook within this show, and the opening salvo, not surprisingly entitled “Harmony” (and it’s a long kick-off number), will be a melodic ear worm in your brain for weeks.  Several ballads will leave you wanting to hear their mellifluous strains again and again. The waker-upper, “We’re Going Loco!”, is a Ziegfeld Follies of 1934 extravaganza, just as the “Come to the Fatherland” is a clever (the “boys” are decked out as marionettes) non-traditional B’way number, and the “How Can I Serve You, Madame?” is a riotous group tune, with the Harmonists attired as waiters, sans pants, but with trays and garters, holding up their socks.

The production runs now through May 15th (it’s been extended once, and I would not be surprised, if, after this downtown run, the musical finds itself a worthy theater uptown), in the newly renovated Edmond J. Safra Hall at the Museum of Jewish Heritage, located at Edmond J. Safra Plaza, 36 Battery Place in Battery Park City, Manhattan. For tickets to Harmony, visit NYTF.org or call 855-449-4658. Contact 212-655-7653 for all other inquiries.

©  2022 Ruth J. Katz  All Rights Reserved

The post The Comedian Harmonists:  The Most Famous Singing Group You’ve Never Heard Of appeared first on Traveling Archive.

I’ve homed in on one answer to satisfy both the longed-for quest and the simple, practical request: Quebec City, which offers a distinctive change of scenery and feels foreign, indeed, and yet, is close at hand. For me and my confreres in Gotham, it’s an hour-and-a-half by plane or a day’s drive. (And you can turn that eight-hour drive into a two-day sojourn, adding some tempting New England pit stops along the route.)

I made my first trip to Quebec City (population, just under 3.5 million) in 2019, and despite having been to many other destinations in Canada several times apiece, Quebec City had eluded me.  And I can honestly say, shame on me. The city and its environs offer the sensation of a more “exotic” trip abroad, and yet, it is in our backyard—and everyone (and I mean everyone, including the bus boy clearing your restaurant table) is bi-lingual. There is much to see and do in this appealing town, not merely in the Old City (Vieux-Québec), which is a UNESCO World Heritage site (and the only walled city north of Mexico).

Founded in the early 17th century by the French explorer Champlain, it is also the only North American city with its ramparts preserved; its handsomely landscaped Citadelle, was an essential city armament, a necessity in yesteryear’s settlements—colonial outposts had to be extensively fortified. The Upper Town, perched on the hilly crest of the “highlands” of Cap Diamant, is home to many historic sites—churches, convents, monuments, and the imperial and historic Château Frontenac, a Fairmont Hotel. The Lower Town sprouted up around the atmospheric Place Royale and the harbor and it is punctuated by charming neighborhoods, European-flavored enclaves, cobbled alleyways, delightful boîtes, and tempting boutiques.

For me, the perfect place—both soothing and welcoming—to call home for a few nights is Le Monastère des Augustines, a former convent (there are still seven nuns in residence here), occupying the historic wings of the Hotel-Dieu de Québec monastery, founded in 1639. The three intrepid sisters who sallied forth from France to alight here and who established the first hospital on the continent (north of Mexico) were dedicated to healing the sick. In all, the Augustinian Sisters founded a dozen hospitals that are today part of Quebec’s public health care system.

The monastery, having been completely restored and renovated, provides a unique experience as a retreat-hotel focusing on holistic health. Its website states that it offers “a unique healing experience in the heart of Old Quebec,” and it is, indeed, a sanctum of culture, caring, and comfort. There are daily meditation walks; yoga and movement classes in disciples like Qi Gong; holistic health evaluations; aromatherapy; and spa-oriented treatments that focus on health and well-being, rather than on beauty-oriented indulgences. The facility is, indeed, dedicated to self-improvement and self-exploration. (There are also countless off-campus activities—should you feel the need to fly the coop, as it were—such as walking nature trails and hiking; biking in the gorgeous and vast Parc des Champs-de-Bataille; and even zip-lining is not too far away.)

This gorgeous, serene retreat is comprised of older buildings, which were once a part of the footprint of the original monastery and twentieth-century additions; the new facilities are architecturally cunning, complementing the existing stone edifices with massive swathes of glass walls and walkways connecting the two sections. There is an inner courtyard providing greenery in a tranquil setting.

Who comes here?  While most guests are from Canada—with a smattering from Europe—about 30 percent hail from south of the border, a number that will likely increase in the coming year. Solitary guests, couples, friends, and mother-daughter combos, all settle in for what is usually a two- or three-night stay. (True to its founding purpose, according to the wishes of the Augustinian sisters, Le Monastère also provides a respite to caregivers and health service workers.)

The hotel accommodations are of two types: “authentic” and “contemporary.”  The former (33) are a slight variation on the original, monastic rooms occupied by the sisters. (An example of an original room is on view in the hotel corridor—as a museum exhibit—and is fascinating to see.)  These rooms offer iron-work-framed beds, topped with handmade, patchwork quilts, stitched by locals, a sink/mirror, and cupboards for clothing. (Bathroom facilities are off the main hallways and are modern, well equipped and private.)  The contemporary rooms (32) are a bit more modern, if a bit stark, but still comfy. There are en suite bathrooms, good storage space, and a desk. NB: no phones or televisions. 

The history of the Augustinians is well chronicled throughout the monastery complex, which also features an extensive archive as well as displays that illustrate the evolution of medicine from about the 13th century onward. There are presentation cases of surgical tools and equipment, a vintage pharmacy chamber, and many exhibitions in armoires along the corridors; these feature artifacts that speak to the work the Sisters performed—including vitrines showcasing the paper flowers that they made to generate revenue. 

Also, to show off the structure of the original building and the juxtaposition of the new additions, you’ll find glass inserts in the floor that allow you to peek into the caves below.  Similarly, there are vitrines that display the original keys to the monastery’s chambers.  Tucked around many nooks are original pieces of furniture as well, all annotated as to origin, and perhaps, even the maker.  An occasional statue of a Madonna with Child will pop up around a corner, in between the paintings of religious subject matter that punctuate the serenity of the whitewashed walls.

You will assuredly get a good rest here and be in a peaceful and healing environment for self-reflection; the day’s mood is set at breakfast, which is held in silence in the no-nonsense dining room with its dozens of mismatched chairs. A herb incubator unit houses hydroponically grown herbs and lettuces at one end of the room, and those fresh herbs contribute to the organic, healthy, and inventive cuisine designed by Chef Christophe Perny.

And if food is high on your list, you’ll not be disappointed in the city.  I savored a few meals off-campus and would highly recommend L’Orygine, a popular, Old Town bistro with a focus on organic, creative cuisine, using ingredients from the province.

I would also recommend a trip to Le Grand Marché, Quebec’s gourmet food destination, featuring fresh-off-the-vine produce, seductive sweets, interesting teas, and a plethora of cheeses, meats, fish, chocolates, as well as a dining area. Take a stroll along Dufferin Terrace, a boardwalk-like promenade overlooking the St. Lawrence, and end with a trip down the hill on the funicular. Visit the Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica-Cathedral, the Place-Royale (the cradle of French civilization in North America), the Parc de la Cetière fresco, a fanciful trompe-l’oeil fresco that depicts 400 years of Quebec history, and the countless, interesting museums in the area.

You will not run out of things to do, should you seek a bit of activity away from the tranquility of Le Monastère. The city has usually enjoyed about 4.4 million tourists a year.  Your visit will help keep that number steady and at the same time, you’ll find a bit of bliss here, as you delight in the “foreignness” just over the border.

Quebec-cite.com/en; monastere.ca/en

© 2022  Ruth J. Katz  All Rights Reserved

The post “European” Getaway in Your Own Backyard: An Escape to Le Monastère in Quebec City appeared first on Traveling Archive.