To refer to one of the mightiest, most significant architectural masterpieces in Great Britain as a “building,” does NOT do it justice, nor does it fully convey the reason why you need to visit St Pauls Cathedral in London – but here’s the thing – can you get the last 36 or more words into a headline? Although I was born, and grew up in this historic metropolis called London, like many city dwellers I never took the time to visit some of my hometown’s most spectacular attractions.

Several years ago, and on a visit that had me headed towards Scotland, I decided to make time to see one of London’s most iconic buildings, St Pauls Cathedral. I was transfixed by the stunning Main Hall of this majestic edifice, and all its incredible architecture, and I wondered how come I’d waited this long to see it. I was touched by the fact that there’s a unique bond between St Paul’s and America. In WW2 28,000 Americans – who were part of the hundreds of thousands of the US military stationed in the UK – lost their lives fighting for freedom and democracy in that war. In 1948 a special American Memorial Chapel of Remembrance – unconditionally built with funds donated by Brits – was constructed to pay tribute to, and recognize, that sacrifice.

Even as a naturalized American citizen I found this chapel to be a moving and thought provoking experience, enriched by yet another US connection. This one came about due to the events of 9/11. Three days later, on September 14^th, 2001, over 2,400 people – lead by Queen Elizabeth – held a special service at St. Paul’s that commemorated the lives lost in that terrible terrorist attack of a few days earlier.

Although there have been numerous reconstructions of St Pauls, the architect most often associated with this masterpiece is Sir Christopher Wren, the fact is that not too long ago a huge project was begun in his honor, and it’s now finished.  Today’s St Pauls looks absolutely magnificent, as do all its carvings, paintings, sculptures and mosaics, indeed some have never seen before. Check out www.StPauls.co.uk and you’ll get a feel for what I mean. When you next visit London I hope you’ll find time to include this superb building on YOUR Must See list.

British history buffs know that one of the all-time classic photo images of London in WW2 is of St Pauls. It became a famous photographic icon of British courage in fighting the scourge of Nazism. The photo, for those of you who don’t know it, showed the Cathedral surrounded by fire and smoke, yet still standing strong in the face of adversity. We show it again for you, as it has come over the many Decades since WW2 ended to symbolize London standing up to the might of the nightly bombing raids of the German Luftwaffe.

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Hey, wait a minute. Wasn’t that cancelled so we could leave a little bit earlier than usual this morning? OMG, I’m late!

A photojournalist invited along to document the Easy Pace Russia experience, I scramble for my camera kit, dash out of my hotel room at the Radisson Royal, grab an elevator to the ground floor, race through the lobby like Usain Bolt (well, almost) and leap aboard the waiting motor coach curbside, with its engine running, completely out of breath.

“MEA CULPA,” I embarrassingly cry out, as Gennady, our tour director, Vera, our local expert guide, and the 22 bona fide travelers already buckled into their seats, strum their fingers on the armrest or point at their watches. Slinking all the way to the back of the coach, like a political prisoner exiled to Sibera, I can feel the chill coming off everyone’s shoulders as I pass by.

Barely seated, “Alexander the Great,” our expert pilot, puts the sleek, state-of-the-art Mercedes carriage, with business class legroom seating, in gear and we’re into the flow of morning traffic in no time, heading towards the M8 motorway.

Where to? The Trinity Lavra of Saint Sergius, the most important monastery in the country and the spiritual center of the Russian Orthodox Church. Named after one of the Church’s most venerated saints, it’s located about 70km (42 mi) northeast of Moscow in Sergeyev Posad, one of a group of ancient “open-air museum” towns that form the Golden Ring.

Along the way, we steal a glance at the Monument of the Conquerors of Space, a 107m tall, titanium depiction of a rocket rising on its exhaust plume that stands right above the Memorial Museum of Cosmonauts.

“In case you forgot,” announces Vera via the onboard sound system, “the very first man in space, Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin, made his historic single orbit around the earth aboard Vostock 1 on April 12, 1961.” She adds, “Ten months later, on February 20, 1962, American astronaut John Glenn countered as he orbited the earth three times aboard Friendship 7, and the manned spaceflight race between the USSR and the USA was seriously underway.”

Speaking of the heavens, we’ve just arrived at the Trinity Lavra. Founded in 1337 with the building of a simple wooden church atop Makovets Hill to honor the Holy Trinity, one of the cornerstones in the religious teachings of Russian Orthodoxy, this monastic community is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of 26 areas so recognized in Russia.

“In awarding World Heritage Site status,” comments Vera in our earbuds as we enter through the Holy Gate, “UNESCO cited the Trinity Lavra as an outstanding and remarkably complete example of an active Orthodox monastery that was characteristic of the period of its growth and expansion between the 15th and the 18th centuries.”

This sacred destination, both spiritually and architecturally, is a unique ensemble of more than 50 buildings and constructions. An angelic park-like setting — absolutely spotless despite the foot traffic — Trinity Lavra is simply stunning with life-sized murals adorning many of the facades and a skyline filled with gilded onion-shaped domes and glistening bell towers.

Inside the nine churches and cathedrals of the monastery are scores of religious artifacts, paintings, ceilings filled with heavenly frescos and walls draped in iconostases.

The holiest spot of Trinity Lavra is inside Trinity Cathedral where the relics of St. Sergius, the monk from Radonezh who founded the monastery, may be seen, but not photographed. Also noteworthy, the tomb of Boris Godunov, the tsar who ruled briefly between the Rurik and Romanov Dynasties, sits in the family mausoleum near the entrance to the monastery’s main church, the Cathedral of the Assumption.

The Grim Reaper seems to be stalking us as our Insight motor coach returns to Moscow and drops us off in front of the entry gate to the most famous of the city’s cemeteries: Novodevichy Cemetery, where Russian history sleeps. Established just outside the south wall of the Novodevichy Convent, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, interment during Soviet rule was considered second in prestige only to burial in the Kremlin Wall Necropolis.

Today, the Novodevichy Cemetery, a veritable who’s who of Russian politics and culture, is the final resting place for only those symbolically significant burials, like more-recent arrivals Boris Yeltsin, the Russian Federation’s first president, and Mstislav Rostropovich, the world-renowned cellist.

Just about every field of endeavor is represented, but only luminaries reside six feet under. From architects, athletes and artists, to composers, cosmonauts and chemists. Why, there are even a few spies buried here, along with a World War II female sniper — I swear I couldn’t find her grave marker — and a circus clown! Yuri Nikulin, the Buster Keaton-like, “brainy clown” of the big top, is interred in the most entertaining and most moving of the more than 27,000 plots contained within these hallowed brick walls.

Go here for detailed information on Insight’s six journeys to Russia, as well as more than 100 other premium and luxury-escorted routes around Europe, or call toll-free (888) 680-1241, or contact your travel agent.

You’ve heard the expression, “Napoleon slept here,” right? Well, we’re soon to find out why his stay in Moscow didn’t last very long when we pay a visit to the Borodino Battle Panorama Museum to relive the Grande Armée of France’s bloody skirmish against the Russian Army on September 7, 1812.

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I had never seen so many tall and sleek model types in my life. I watched with fascination as they rushed through Milan’s  Piazza del Duomo (“Cathedral Square”) for an unknown rendezvous or appointment, dressed in the latest fashion. It was also the first time I had ever paid $16 for a café latte, but it was well worth the price for a front row table facing the magnificent Piazza.

At the other end of the square sat the iconic symbol of Milan: The Duomo di Milano. Occupying an entire city block, the Lombard Gothic style cathedral glistened in evening light due to the façade of pink-veined white Candoglia marble. Adorned with 3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles and 700 figures, construction took over 500 years to complete. As the third largest cathedral in the world, I could just catch a glimpse of the rooftop terrace with the gold-colored statue of the Madonnina, standing on the Duomo’s highest spire.

I proclaimed then and there it was the most beautiful cathedral I had ever seen. I read in a guide book that there’s an elevator to the top, but you can also walk up the stairs in an average time of 10 to 15 minutes. I challenged myself to do it in under 10. But first, the night was before me and it was time to explore more of the pulsating city of Milan.

The Next Day

After a filling lunch of the Milanese specialties Osso Buco – a cross-cut veal shank with a bone marrow hole at its center, served with the traditional side dish of Risotto alla Milanese with saffron – I took another look at my guide book.

Surrounded by skinny suit attired locals on the go, I read that Milan is an important railway hub, which many tourists use as a starting point for journeys to more ancient Italian cities with Roman ruins and medieval cobblestone streets.  This is not Milan. As the fashion capital of the world, it is there to experience the moment. Milan embodies the Italian notion of la bella figura: behaving well and looking good doing it.

With a population of 1,357,599,  Milan is also a major financial, industrial, and design hub. It possesses a historic core that has an imposing, solid grandeur to it.  In recent years, vehicles have begun being banished from it (gradually – street by street), making one feel as if in an open-air living room.

As I strolled to the Duomo, I remembered last night’s outing to the famous Navigli, a canal area left over from a system of waterways that once connected Milano with Lake Como and the Adriatic Sea.

The innovative system of locks was designed by Leonardo Da Vinci in the late fifteenth century. One of the canals actually stopped directly in front of Duomo, transporting the Candoglia marble from quarries in Lake Maggiore. Leonardo spent 17-years in Milan. His fresco of “The Last Supper” is available for viewing at the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, but make sure you get your tickets in advance.

1:02 PM: Soon I arrived at the darkened entryway of the Duomo. Before me were the high steps to the terrace.   I gave the elevator a second look, and began my ascent up the stairway. Worn smooth by centuries of other pilgrims, it seemed an easy task. There was a young family leisurely walking up the steps before me so I lessened my pace, rather than rush by them and ruin their experience. I decided to take a short break by an open window overlooking the square.

I could just make out the magnificent Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Arcade, named for the first king of Italy in 1900 after the unification of the Italian States. The famous passageway through the arcade was where the likes of Toscanini, Verdi and Maria Callas would walk after a performance at nearby Teatro alla Scala. I had hoped to book a ticket at the historic opera house, but did manage a tour where I enjoyed an unforgettable afternoon rehearsal, thanks to With Locals’ all knowing guide, Francesca Giorgetti.

1:06 PM: I took another look at my watch, and realized that I had some serious time to make-up. I charged up the steps, this time passing the group before me. Another 100 steps on, I began to falter. Did the guidebook say anything about the effect of the altitude? And why had I had such a big lunch? Disappointed in myself, I needed another reprieve.

I caught my breath before another open window where I could see the entrance to the interior. I had booked my ticket earlier at the Museo del Duomo where the helpful staff were quite accommodating, answering my endless questions. As expected, the interior of the Duomo was beautiful, consisting of a nave with four side-aisles, crossed by a transept, then followed by an apse. Above the apse there is a small illuminated red light bulb. This marks the spot where one of the three nails of Jesus’ crucifixion was placed, believed to be retrieved by Helena, the mother of Roman Emperor Constantine, after a religious tour of Jerusalem. She is regarded as the one who converted Constantine to Christianity, who, in turn Christianized the Roman Empire. Once a year the nail is presented in a wooden basket for viewings.

1:11 PM: Okay, no more time for breaks. I needed to make up some serious time, with about one minute left to make it to the terrace. My legs felt as heavy as Candoglia marble.  Taking deep breaths, I remembered my wife begging me not to let my membership to my health club expire. Huffing and puffing I was soon met with glorious daylight, 30 seconds ahead of schedule. But somehow it wasn’t what I had expected. Where was the statue of the Madonnina and the flying buttresses? A kind guide noticed my confusion, and informed me that there were still more steps to the terrace, just around the corner.

I hurried to her direction to the base of the final stairway. A tourist gave me a quizzical look. I shouted over my shoulder, “I’m on a mission.” The tourist replied, “This is the Duomo, not a Mission.” Adrenalin kicked it and I began to ascend the final stairs.

1:12 PM: With just seconds left of my allotted ten minutes, I made it victoriously to the terrace. Although there were no medals or applause; my reward was more inconceivable than anything I could ever have imagined: I had just ascended to heaven. Before me was a fairy tale array of openwork pinnacles and spires, set upon delicate flying buttresses. And yes, there was the glorious Madonnina, towering above me. The other tourists on the terrace were serene and respectful, only adding to this other-worldly experience. I recalled a quotation from  Mark Twain:

What a wonder it is!
So grand, so solemn, so vast!
And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful!
A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems
In the soft moonlight only a fairy delusion of frost-work
That might vanish with a breath!
How sharply its pinnacled angles
And its wilderness of spires were cut against the sky,
And how richly their shadows fell upon its snowy roof!
It was a vision! — a miracle! —
An anthem sung in stone, a poem wrought in marble!”

– Mark Twain

I walked to the ledge for the angel-like view before me. It was a picture perfect day with spectacular vistas of the city and even the snowcapped Swiss Alps in the distance. There was still much to see and do in Milan. But, for the moment, I was in no hurry.

For further information about travel to Milan, logon to Turismo Milano.

The post Up the Staircase to the Top of the Duomo di Milano: Exploring Milan, The City of Now appeared first on Traveling Archive.

And then the rains came down, blessing this magical and sacred city of 21,321,000 million inhabitants and giving them a gentle reprieve from their bustling and productive lives. It has been said that Mexico City has a perfect annual spring temperature, making it an abundant produce belt for Mexico and the rest of the world. Mexico is the first nation in the world awarded a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Listing for their contributions to world cuisine, and I did my best to sample as many dishes that my stomach would allow. The rains were good timing for me, too.  I had already explored 8-days of the city’s many museums and attractions – Mexico City has more museums than any city in the world next to London – and it was time to fly home. Reflecting on my Mexico City experience as I packed, I knew I would be asked questions from my gringo friends up north about the exaggerated reports of crime and the character of the Mexican people by the U.S. White House.  I found no crime, and the locals were kind and welcoming. I could not pull out a map without someone rushing over to offer their guidance. Of course, like any major city there are robberies and assaults, but the crime rate in New Orleans, for example, is over five-times higher than Mexico City.

Mexico City: A Turbulent History

The nomadic and warlike Mexica (Aztec) people hailed from where the current Arizona border and Mexico meet today. Legend tells us they were informed by a god that they would find their homeland in a place where an eagle is perched on a cactus with a serpent in his mouth. This sign was found on an island in the middle of Lake Texcoco, approximately 700 years ago in the high plateaus of central Mexico. The Aztec’s arrival led to skirmishes with local tribes, but the Aztecs eventually prevailed, forcing them to pay high taxes and becoming the source of ritual human sacrifices. The Aztecs created an empire of enchanting beauty and magnitude with the building of enormous temples, palaces and a ceremonial center on the island, along with canals, little inlets and additional man-made islands. In 1519 when Hernán Cortés and his Spanish conquistadors first laid eyes on this stunning empire, he reported back to Ferdinand and Isabella of the Kingdom of Spain that it was the most breathtaking metropolis in which he’d ever seen, including ones in Europe.  Initially Moctezuma ll, the Aztec ruler, greeted Cortés as a god, even bragging that they had recently sacrificed 20,000 warriors, but soon realized the Spanish’s true motive of conquest, and pushed them out of the empire. Cortés returned with more armaments and conquistadors, easily defeating the Aztecs, who by now had been weakened by the spread of European diseases and the alignment with anti-Aztec tribes who had not forgotten their brutality. Moctezuma ll was killed, and Ferdinand and Isabella instructed Cortés to destroy all Aztec structures and fill in the lake, offering a soggy support for immense European-style churches and buildings.  Mexico City has been slowly sinking since they were built at an average of 3 to 4 inches a year. Tenochtitlan was rechristened Mexico City and the capital of New Spain. The Spanish plundered the lands for gold and riches, with the help of the now enslaved populace. Mexico became a republic after achieving independence from Spain in 1821.

But post-independent Mexico’s turbulent history continued, plagued by political dysfunction, along with violent and nonviolent coups. In 1833, General Antonio López de Santa Anna served eleven non-consecutive presidential terms before leading the nation into chaos.  Mexico was defeated by U.S. forces during the expansionistic and dubious Mexican–American War in 1846, losing 1/3rd of their northern territory, including nearly all of present-day California, Utah, Nevada, Arizona and New Mexico.

The Liberal Reform War, headed by Mexico’s most beloved president, Benito Juarez (1806-1872), curtailed the power of the Catholic Church and created a democratic process for all citizens.  Next followed the brief French intervention, with Maximilian I as emperor (think Cinco de Mayo) and finally, the Mexican Revolution in 1910, where the autocratic president, Porfirio Díaz, stripped the populace of their democratic rights, which were taken back by Francisco I. Madero (president until assassination) with the help of folk bandit-turned-revolutionary Francisco “Pancho” Villa and peasant-turned-politician Emiliano Zapata.

In 1928, President Lázaro Cárdenas, a former revolutionary general, revived the social revolution and carried out a series of agrarian reforms, distributing twice as much land to peasants than all of his predecessors combined. The Mexican Cultural Revolution continues, where the work by artists like Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, photographer Tina Modotti, composer Carlos Chávez and writers Martín Luis Guzmán are introduced to the world stage. Mexico’s international status grows with Mexico City hosting the 1968 Olympic Games. In 1994, Mexico joins the U.S. and Canada in signing the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA). Vicente Fox is elected president, and focuses on reducing corruption, crime and drug trafficking. In the July 2016 presidential election, Felipe Calderón wins by one percentage point.

Touring Mexico City

CENTRO HISTORICO is the birthplace of Mexico City; featuring historic buildings, magnificent churches, museums, friendly vendors, talented musicians and docents in Aztec attire. The Zócalo (main plaza) is built on the remains of the Aztec’s Tenochtitlan, and now houses the National Palace, which features the Benito Juarez Museum, and the remarkable murals by Mexico’s most famous painter, Diego Rivera. His murals cover the history of the Mexican people from pre-Hispanic origins to the middle of the 20th century, giving voice to the indigenous people and cultures of Mexico. His most famous mural, Epic of the Mexican People, is painted on the wall above the main staircase. To witness the power of this stunning masterpiece in person is to be moved to the depths of your soul.

Templo Mayor – In 1978, electricity workers discovered an eight-ton stone-disc carving of the Aztec goddess Coyolxauhqui. A decision was wisely made to demolish the colonial buildings and begin excavation, soon making it Mexico City’s most important archaeological site. A temple was revealed on the exact spot where the Aztecs saw the prophetic eagle perching on a cactus with a snake in its beak – which they considered the center of the universe. That very symbol graces the Mexico flag today.

The Templo Mayor museum was built in 1987, and visitors can now follow a winding walkway through the excavated ruins (as further excavations continue), plus visit the museum with many of its artifacts on display.

Palacio de Bella Artes rests a few blocks up the road from the Zócalo, across the street from the fountains and statues of the delightful tree-lined Alameda Park. In the park is the must-see Diego Rivera Mural Museo, dedicated to his life and work. Palacio de Bella Artes is considered the city’s cultural center. Construction was off and on, once again due to soft subsoil. It was completed in 1934 in the style of Neoclassical and Art Nouveau on its exterior, and primarily Art Deco inside. The palace is renowned for more murals by Diego Rivera, numerous exhibitions and theatrical performances. I was in attendance at the Ballet Folklórico de México, which fit my own theme of exploring the culture and history of Mexico City. The dancing was colorful and sublime, with music by the most talented mariachi band in which I’ve ever heard.

Cathedral Metropolitana is the oldest and largest cathedral in all of Latin America. Built in sections from 1573 to 1813, the stones from Templo Mayor were used in construction in a trinity of styles: Baroque, Neo-Classic and Neo-Renaissance; basically what was in vogue for that period. Highlights include five naves, 14 chapels, underground catacombs and many prized works of art from the colonial era. The massive cathedral dominates the Zócalo, and, like many structures in Centro Historico, is sinking due to its weight on the former Aztec temple and muddy subsoil. You will notice a much older-looking church next to the cathedral, known as the Sagrario Chapel, built in the mid-1700s

Bosque de Chapultepec is Mexico City’s main park, serving as the principal cultural and recreational center of the city. At a sprawling 1,6950 acres, twice the size New York’s Central Park, the expansive green urban park features woodlands, forests, lakes, gardens and walking paths. Major attractions include the Museo Nacional de Antropologia and Castillo de Chapultepec, additional world-class museums, a zoo with 2,000 animals, botanical garden and recreational lake for boating, as well of hordes of snack vendors, street performers and souvenir stands.

The Museo Nacional de Antropologia can be only described as a must-see experience, containing the world’s largest collection of ancient Mexican art and ethnographic exhibits about Mexico’s indigenous civilizations. There are 12 ground-floor halls each dedicated to the cultural regions of pre-Hispanic Mexico, while an upper-level explains how Mexico’s indigenous descendants live today.  The museum’s scope and vast richness can easily fill the day; so come early for it gets extremely crowded.

Castillo de Chapultepec, perched atop a high hill (grasshopper hill), was once a Spanish summer palace, later repurposed as the Mexico National Military Academy, the historic site of the last-ditch effort of Mexican resistance in the still controversial Mexican-American War. Approximately 5,000 defenders, including cadets from the academy, gallantly faced fierce hand-to hand combat with U.S. forces under General Winfield Scott.  After their defeat, six cadets known as Los Niños Héroes, jumped to their death, holding the Mexican flag. The palace later became the residence of Emperor Maximilian I, then a presidential residence. Catching my breath in the serenity of the palace’s exquisite courtyard, with spectacular views of the park and the city, it was hard to imagine such violent history ever took place. The castle today hosts the National Museum of Mexico with objects from various stages in Mexican history, along with displays of furniture and art from Maximilian and past presidents.

Coyoacán is an idyllic tree-lined neighborhood flush with shaded pocket parks, glistening fountains, sidewalk cafes and small museums. Its location was once beside a lake, outside of the city. As Mexico City grew it surrounded the little city, now on a dry lake, preserving the neighborhood, making it a delightful outing for locals and tourists alike.

Museo Frida Kahlo is Coyoacán’s most popular destination, which features her house and art museum, celebrating her life and work. Painted in vibrant cobalt-blue colors, the house was Kahlo’s birthplace and where she lived all of her life, and contains minor artwork by her, along with paintings by Diego Rivera, her workspace, Mexican folk art, pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs and memorabilia. Frida has become the poster child for Mexico Tourism as much for her work as well as for spiritedly overcoming the adversarial conditions of her life which included childhood polio, a tragic streetcar accident, acceptance as an artist due to her gender, and two marriages with womanizer, Diego Rivera. Long before the term ever existed, she lived her life as an art form, even selecting her daily wear down to the smallest detail. It is essential that you purchase your tickets the day before, or you will face a long and time consuming line.

The Leon Trotsky Museum is located just a few blocks away from the Kahlo Museum. Trotsky was one of the original Russian Bolsheviks, and considered heir to Lenin, but was exiled, then hunted by the tyrannical Josef Stalin regime after he forced his way into power. Trotsky was on the run, but was given political asylum, sponsored by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. Along with his wife, he lived in the Kahlo house for a few years. Later they relocated to a new fortress-life home with watchtowers, where he was assassinated by one of Stalin’s agents, who had posed as a family friend. As I entered the museum I was told that I was to have a private tour by the museum’s director. To my surprise, the museum director was none other than Trotsky’s grandson, Esteban Volkov. A remarkably spry and dashing man in his early 90s with impeccable manners, Mr. Volkov had lived with his grandparents at age thirteen, and was wounded himself as a result of Stalin operative’s failed machine gun assault. The bullet holes are still on the walls.  He walked me through the museum, patiently explaining in detail the history of photos from Trotsky’s lifetime, his participation in the Bolshevik Revolution, family tree, books and newspapers, and the backyard where he planted vegetables, tended to his rabbits and is buried. The center of the museums is Trotsky’s study where his iconic spectacles, papers and books are left in the exact position on the very desk where he sat when bludgeoned to death with an ice axe. Mr. Volkov ultimately raised his own family in the house, then turned it into a museum on the 50th anniversary of the assassination of Trotsky.

Roma Norte Neighborhood – As the popularity of authentic travel grows, a walking tour of Roma Norte neighborhood offers visitors an unique opportunity to experience Mexico City’s daily life as a local. Once the place of palatial-like homes for the wealthy, the buildings were repurposed for a younger generation as boutique hotels, offices, apartments and condominiums in an eclectic architectural design. Roma evokes the tranquil ambiance of Coyoacán, but is also very cutting edge with a Bohemian and European flair. Galleries, bars, sidewalk cafés, food vendors selling high-end dishes, and hipster coffee shops, with preparations that would leave a Starbuck’s barista’s head spinning, line the street. As a film buff I was delighted to find locations that Spanish-turned-Mexican director (later French), Luis Buñuel used in his 1950 masterpiece, Los Olvidados (aka The Young and the Damned).  The film reintroduced Buñuel to the international film scene, winning “Best Directed Film” at the 1951 Cannes Film Festival. Roma Norte is blessed with many little pocket parks, shaded by trees, ideal for just watching life go by.  Roma Norte borders the Condesa neighborhood, which I am told is a little more posh, but offers similar wonders.

Monumento a la Revolución is a landmark and monument commemorating the heroes of the decade-long Mexican Revolution of 1910, where up to two million lives were lost. Located in Plaza de la República, which crosses at the heart of the  Paseo de la Reforma and Avenida de los Insurgentes in downtown Mexico City, it is also known as the Arch of the Revolution. The conflict began when Francisco I. Madero sought the overthrow of the hated dictator Porfirio Díaz, with the help of Francisco “Pancho” Villa and Emiliano Zapata. An elevator and staircase leads to the monument’s copper dome for impressive 360-degree views of the surrounding skyline. In the basement there’s a museum and mausoleum for the heroes of the Mexican Revolution. For a Villa experience, checkout La Opera Bar where he once rode his horse inside and put a bullet hole in the ceiling, still visible today.

Outside of Mexico City

Teotihuacan is located 25 miles northeast of Mexico City, coverings an area of 32 square miles, believed to be founded around 100 B.C. Teotihuacan is best defined by the epic size of its monuments, Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon, which are laid out on geometric and symbolic principles. To this day no one is sure who these ancient people were that built it, and why they abandoned the city. At its peak, Teotihuacan was the largest city in the pre-Columbian Americas, with a population estimated at 200,000, making it the sixth largest city in the world. Teotihuacan was already in ruins by the time of the Aztec’s arrival, almost 1000 years later. They basically left the city alone, but did borrow a number of the innovative building practices. The Spanish completely ignored it, with the arid countryside not offering any treasures. As I stood by the base of Temple of the Sun, the second tallest pyramid in the world, I stared long and hard at the monumental 248 steep steps to the top, broken up by five landing rises that supported the temple. As I charged up to the landings, I took the opportunity to stop and catch my breath, though pretending I was enjoying the view. The final steps were the steepest, with a cable designed to help you pull yourself to the top. I felt like Rocky Balboa after his climb of the Philadelphia Art Museum, but due to the serenity of the experience, refrained from any excess celebrating, and just marveled at the panorama of the entire complex.

Our guide insisted that I stroll down the Avenue of the Dead to the oldest of the pyramids, the Temple of the Moon, and then climb to the top. I was told I would achieve a sorrowful feeling due to all the dead buried inside, but sadly I only felt fatigue and need for a beer. Teotihuacan and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, and is the most visited archaeological site in Mexico.

Xochimilco Floating Gardens stretch out about 17 miles south of Centro Historico, and is yet another of Mexico’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Originally a large lake bed, a series of canals was established for easy transportation to other pueblos. Once discovered by the Aztecs, they designed an agricultural technique of using chinampas (raised agricultural fields between canals) to extend arable land into wetland areas. They were formed by rooting rectangular cane frames to the lake floor and filling them with alternating layers of aquatic weeds, muck and earth until they rose up above the surface of the water. Willow trees were planted along the edges of the fields where their roots helped to contain the chinampas, which created intensive farming of swampy areas, allowing the Aztec empire to sustain a large population.

Today, you can rent a brightly colored flat-bottomed boat called a trajinera (similar to gondolas, with a captain) for your own exploration of the canals. It can be a bit of a traffic jam with vendors gliding by on smaller trajineras, selling hot food items made right on their boat, craft vendors, flower merchants, mariachi bands willing to play a tune for a price, b-day parties, and hordes of students dancing and celebrating graduations and other events. If time is no consideration, you can float further down the canals in relative peace to enjoy commercial areas and pristine wilderness. We can thank the Spanish who understood the purpose of the produce richness of the canals and for once left things alone.

WHERE TO STAY:  Barceló México Reforma

I generally don’t write feature articles about properties in which I had stayed, but that was before my lodging at Barceló México Reforma.  The five-star hotel is nestled in Central Mexico City on the iconic Paseo de la Reforma avenue, making it the ideal location for exploring the city’s attractions. Just around the corner is the arch-like Monument to the Revolution, a modern-day architectural wonder and museum commemorating the Mexican Revolution; the Centro Historico’s main plaza, only a pleasant 20-minute stroll; and the Benito Juárez International Airport, just a 20 minute cab drive away. The creature comforts were endless with 505 luxury rooms, commanding views of the city, swimming pool, wellness area, fitness center, fine cuisine, along with a buffet breakfast and happy hour included in the price. But there was something more about Barceló México Reforma; something that I had never experienced before at a large hotel, particularly one that is part of a chain of 230 hotels under the Barceló Hotel Group banner. The staff at the hotel offered a sense of warmth and intimacy, and sincerely cared about my well-being.

A member of the concierge team was always available to answer any questions about restaurants, directions, tours, you name it. My mornings generally began with a “Good morning, Mr. Boitano. Can we be of any assistance today?” The pièce de résistance was at the end of the trip where I had a bout with some bad bacteria.  (Please note: my photographer enjoyed the same meals as me, and experienced no symptoms other than euphoria) A member of the concierge staff actually walked to a local drug store in the middle of the night to purchase medications for me.  It happened again at the crack of dawn where another staff member did the same thing. When it was advised that I needed to go to urgent care at a hospital, Jesus Rodriquez, a pivotal member of the team, patiently escorted me on foot for the six-blocks to the clinic. The professional care I received at the hospital was better than I’ve ever experienced at any U.S. hospital. In many respects the kindness, attention and hospitality that I received at Barceló México Reforma was indicative of the very character of the people of Mexico City.  I was told by famed travel writer, Richard Carroll, who’s lived in the Yucatan and written guide books about Mexico, that the people in Mexico are the most gracious and hospitable people in the world. Now I know what he means. Since 1989 the Barceló Hotel Group has dedicated social work through the Barceló Foundation, which collaborates in health, education, economic development and culture projects in underdeveloped countries. I liked that about the hotel, too.

For further information, contact Visit Mexico City and Barceló México Reforma

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