My driver was a well-traveled and youthful looking man of 70 who called Friuli-Venezia Giulia home. Speaking in perfect English, “My secret for fitness is to drink just one glass of Frulian wine a day,” he laughed. When I informed him that I was both a Great War and Ernest Hemingway buff, he politely pointed out World War I battle sites, many of which  Hemingway had written about in A Farewell to Arms when he was an 18-year-old ambulance driver.  So my journey continued with the driver as my own private guide. In between his informative commentary, he was anxious to hear about some of my favorite locations in his region.

Aquileia

Aquileia is yet another of Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites; and there are countless reasons why. Now a small rural village, it was colonized by the Romans in 181 BC, and was once the second largest city in the empire with a population of 100,000. It was initially intended as a military center to stave off invasions of central and northern European barbarians. But its position on the edge of the Adriatic’s lagoons led to its rapid growth as a commercial and political center, making it one of the wealthiest cities of the early Roman Empire.

The city was leveled by Attila’s Huns in 452 AD, resulting in its citizens escaping to the southwest, eventually establishing Grado and Venice.  Most of Aquileia still lies unexcavated beneath the fields, containing the world’s greatest archaeological reserve of its kind. In the early Middle Ages, a much smaller town in post-Roman Aquileia emerged. With the construction of the present day Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, it went on to become the largest Christian diocese in Europe.

The patriarchal basilica played a key role in the evangelization of a large region in central Europe. Its remarkable floor mosaics are the oldest in Christendom. Keep in mind, throughout history, most sermons were in Latin, and the average person could not read nor write. Mosaics, stained-glass windows and statues were not only beautiful works of art, but also illustrated important biblical passages the populace could understand.

 Grado, Friuli Venezia Giulia’s Lagoon City

No stranger to creature comforts, the lagoon city of Grado was once a destination for the Romans to cool off their well-traveled legionnaire heels. Their mode of transport was a Roman road from Aquileia, now submerged under the lagoon’s waters.  Located in the midst of the Adriatic’s northernmost lagoon, Grado was later a holistic retreat for the Hapsburg aristocracy who would  use the seaside thermal springs and curative gray sand for therapeutic treatments. Its popularity continues today as a resort destination for German, Swiss, Austrian and Italian families.

Grado is spread across a narrow island, backed by wide open beaches on one side, and lagoons with a series of small islands, wetlands on the other. In the middle there’s a rustic Venetian-style ancient town center where one can stroll through calli (narrow alleyways), which open to squares with examples of early Christian basilicas, fishermen’s houses and restaurants.

A boat tour of the lagoon is essential where traditional island life is on display with modest fishermen housing known as casoni, characterized by their straw roofs. Many casoni are now boarded-up with the glory days of fishing for a living almost gone, but you can still enjoy the rewards of the sea with the freshest of seafood served in one of the small island’s very authentic restaurants. Looking out at the lagoon’s marshes, reeds and petite islands, you can almost imagine what Venice once looked like before there was even a thought of building a city, let alone an empire. In the background looms the mountains where some of the fiercest battles of the Great War were fought.

Cellina Nature Reserve: The Hanging Bridge and the Lake of Barcis

Cellina Gorge is the largest and most spectacular canyon of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Carved away by years of torrential waters, steep limestone rocks plunge vertically into a creek with examples of intense erosion and karstification, a bit reminiscent of a small Grand Canyon. The waters and deep canyons was once the only link of the valley with the plain. The reserve is the most important part of the Cellina stream, located between the artificial lakes of Barcis and Montereale before its outlet in the high plains of Pordenone.

A new metal  hanging bridge was recently constructed  with steel cables and steps above the  steep gorge. Participants wear climbing helmets provided by the custodian at the entrance, who convey instructions to enjoy the experience in safety.

Russiz Superiore Winery – The Grand Finale

Roberto Felluga’s Russiz Superiore Winery is situated in the heart of Friuli’s breathtaking Wine Country. Originally part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, some believe the region is psychologically closer to Austria than to Italy. One can taste this influence in his wines which possess almost a crisp Germanic precision. Russiz Superiore’s estate extends over 100 acres, with the focus on the small production of wines that maximize the intensity of the grapes as well as highlighting the landscape of its home in Collio. The Friulian central plateau’s Wine Country is rated as Italy’s third most important wine quality region.

A wine and food extravaganza at the Russiz Superiore Wine Cellar was a fitting way to end the evening. And a glass of grappa, first produced in the local mountains, was the perfect digestive to end the meal. Other Friulian creations include Prosciutto di San Daniele – similar to Prosciutto di Parma, but less robust and more sublime – white asparagus, Montasio – a creamy, unpasteurized mountain cheese – and Spaghetti Felicetti – pasta from the Dolomites. Remember. In Italy pasta is not served as an entrée, it follows the antipasto and proceeds the main course. Pasta is also served in a bowl, with no large spoon for twirling the pasta with a fork. I asked a waiter in Grado where the antipasto tradition of dipping a piece of bread into a plate of olive oil began. He replied, “Los Angeles, California.” *

My driver and I arrived at the Venice Airport. With almost Austrian formality he dropped my bags at the terminal, and then shook my hand. “It was a great pleasure, signore.” “No, the pleasure really belongs to me,” I replied. “I’ve learned a lot from you.” I handed him a few euros. “Please take this and don’t be offended.” After glancing at the money, he responded, “This will buy many ‘one-glass-a-day-wines.’” He then added, “Friuli has many secrets and maybe the time is right for them to be discovered by the rest of the world.” With that, he drove off and I entered the airport for my exploration of Friuli-Venezia Giulia was over.

* History tells us that the history of dipping a cubed piece of bread in a dollop of olive oil was a way to test the quality of the various oils. Because butter is generally not on the Italian table, North Americans assume that the olive oil which is, is for flavoring the bread.

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Overlooking the Adriatic Sea, bordering Austria, Slovenia and Italy’s Veneto region, I predict that once the word gets out, this enchanting, little-known region is poised to become one of nation’s hottest travel destinations. Friuli-Venezia Giulia also constitutes a new backdoor to Italy concept; just fly to Venice, visit the sights and battle the crowds, then hop in a car or bus. Within an hour you will be immersed in a world of pristine vineyards, charming villages and farms, glacial lakes, lagoons and rivers, world-class beach resorts, Roman ruins and historical cities, all with the towering Dolomites as a backdrop. It’s  the type of region where you can go skiing in the mountains and enjoy a seafood meal on the Adriatic in a single day. Perhaps you may want to stop for a glass of wine in the central plateau’s Wine and Dine route, Italy’s third largest wine quality region. Multiculturalism is reflected and respected with four official regional languages: Italian, Slovenian, German and Friuli, a language courtesy of the Carnics, a Celtic population who remained in the Carnic Alps dating back to the time of the Romans. Friuli Venezia Giulia not only embraces all forms of ethnicity; it is defined by it. I liked that a lot, particularly with the current trend in the U.S. to have a disdain for any form of cultural diversity and identity.

Sipping a glass of Collio Bianco Col at Roberto Felluga’s tranquil Russiz Superiore Winery, it occurred to me that I’ve never experienced a region quite like it in Italy. This seemingly untouched piece of paradise offered an authentic form of travel, devoid of hordes of tourists and sometimes cynical merchants that dominate many of Italy’s more famous attractions.

Selected Highlights

Trieste

If you can smell the coffee, you must be in Trieste. The most international city of Friuli Venezia Giulia, this endearing regional capital evokes the ambiance of Vienna’s coffee culture of the past, while serving as a seaside salon today. This should come as no surprise for Trieste was once part of the Habsburg Empire, giving the landlocked Austro-Hungarians a precious piece of the Adriatic for commercial transport. Sitting at the base of the Karst Plateau, almost entirely surrounded by Slovenia, the city is physically isolated from the rest of the Italian peninsula, and became home to literary giants like Umberto Saba, Italo Svevo, and Dublin ex-pat James Joyce, who wrote The Dubliners, Portrait of An Artist as a Young Man and half of Ulysses during his 14 years in the city. Like many cities of the region, Trieste evokes a blend of its romantic past and today’s sense of cosmopolitanism. Sidewalk cafes line the idyllic main square,  Piazza Unita’ d’Italia, which opens to the cool breezes of the Adriatic. Locals leisurely go on with their daily life, and then enjoy the sea for sunbathing, swimming or just strolling. Trieste is a compact city, with its history, literary traditions and art; a seamless fusion of Roman, medieval and Habsburg period architectural styles, all easily accessible on foot.

A Roman amphitheatre (circa B.C.) is located at the foot of the San Guisto Hill in the heart of Old Town. Once buried under modern buildings, it was uncovered by archeologists in the 1930s, and is one of the remaining 230 amphitheatres scattered across the former Roman Empire. For lovers of decorum luxury, Miramare Castle, compliments of Habsburg Archduke Maximilian – later short-lived emperor of Mexico until assassination – sits on a bluff, overlooking the sea.

At the end of Parco della Rimembranza (Memory Park) is the Monument to the Fallen Soldiers of Trieste which pays homage to the war dead of the Great War. The Battle of Caporetto, considered the most treacherous battle of war, took place in the mountains outside the city. In the successful Austrian and German advance more than 600,000 war-weary Italian soldiers died, deserted or surrendered in the bitter mountain warfare. The battle was described by Ernest Hemingway in his masterpiece A Farewell to Arms, based on his experiences when he was an 18-year-old ambulance driver in Italy for the Red Cross.

Sacile

Mere words cannot describe the ethereal beauty of Sacile; almost more of a fairy tale than a village. Located outside of the small city of Pordenone – itself worth a look – it is known as the Garden of the Serenissima due to the many palaces along the Livenza River, built for the nobility at the time of the Venetian Empire. With its array of picturesque little canals and bridges, palaces reflecting in the water, gorgeous flowers and vegetation, it is a tranquil and romantic venue to simply stroll or relax on a park bench, a true photographer’s delight.

The Friulian Dolomites

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Friulian Dolomites stand proudly high above the clouds at a towering 7122 ft. in the far western mountain area of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Considered the most untouched area of the entire Dolomite range, its symbol is Campanile di Val Montanaia, an isolated rock pinnacle on the summit that looks like a bell tower. Readers note: Only the fittest climbers would challenge an ascent to the peak, but iconic images of the tower, surrounded by spectacular karst formations, can be easily photographed from lower trails. For low-impact trekkers – in other words, lightweights like me – there are well-kept forested paths and trails, meadows, glacial rivers, brilliant green lakes, dramatic limestone topography and caves.

Udine

Udine has been inhabited since the Neolithic age and is recognized as the most historical capital of the region.  History tell us that Attila, the leader of the warlike Huns, built a hill and a square-shaped tower in Udine when besieging Roman Aquileia. Due to legend, he instructed his soldiers to transport soil in their helmets and shields, because the landscape was too flat.  Aquileia, once the second largest city in the Roman Empire was eventually sacked by Attila’s Huns, resulting in its citizens escaping to the southwest, eventually establishing Grado and Venice. After the fall of Western Roman Empire, Udine increased in importance becoming part of the Republic of Venice, the newly formed Kingdom of Italy, and later the seat of the Italian High Command during the Great War. Before the Italian Army’s devastating defeat in the Battle of Caporetto, Udine was known as the “War Capital.” Hemingway devotes long passages about Udine in A Farewell to Arms:

“He lived in Udine and came out in this way nearly every day to see how things were going, and things went very badly. At the start of the winter came the permanent rain and with the rain came the cholera. But it was checked and in the end only seven thousand died of it in the army.”
– Ernest Hemingway

Today the city and provincial capital of Udine dominates Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s inland plains and alpine peaks, offering a unique taste of history: A ring road surrounds a stunning and compact pedestrian-only medieval center, complete with Roman columns, Venetian arches and Grecian statues. Renowned for its regional cuisine and white wines  – which possess a crisp Germanic precision – along with traditional food items such as Prosciutto di San Daniele – similar to Prosciutto di Parma, but less robust and more sublime – white asparagus, and Montasio – a creamy, unpasteurized mountain cheese – it is considered the gastronomic capital of Friuli. Among this thriving cityscape there’s a plethora of local  bars and sidewalk cafes where one can bask in the city’s wonders. In the countryside, the province is marked with numerous villas, towers, abbeys and castles.

In Part II of A Piece of Paradise: Friuli-Venezia Giulia Region my journey continues with explorations of the Roman city of Aquileia, the Cellina Nature Reserve, Grado – the “Golden Island,” and the Food & Wine of the region.

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