The drive in from the Falls is along the beautiful Niagara Parkway. Winston Churchill described the Parkway as “the prettiest Sunday afternoon drive in the world”. He was in town in 1943 after attending the Quebec Conference when the Allies were planning the D-Day landings in France almost exactly 75 years ago!  The Parkway winds along the edge of the Niagara River and forms a welcoming tree-lined entrance to one of the prettiest small towns in all of Canada. On the way you pass the famous monument at Queenston Heights that honours the death of our first national hero, Sir Isaac Brock.  The general who helped save Upper Canada in the early days of the War of 1812 but died on this hill in October 1812 during the Battle of Queenston Heights.

One of the biggest attracters for our nearly 3 million tourists to this small town of just 18,000, are its wineries. Niagara-on-the-Lake has become famous for the wines from its 40 local wineries. Many have excellent restaurants where they pair their fine wines with regional cuisine. The unique climate of the Niagara Region lends itself to winemaking and it is surprising that it is on the same latitude as southern France. The Niagara region is an area which benefits from a unique and moderate micro-climate and mineral-rich soils, making for successful world-class vintages.

This is my hometown. As a way of giving back over the past few years, I have joined a number of town committees as a volunteer. One was the committee that won many National and International awards for the town in a worldwide municipal contest. The Communities in Bloom award in 2017 was on the international stage and Niagara-on-the-Lake won the prestigious gold award over towns its size in the U.S., Ireland, Croatia and many other countries. The Communities in Bloom program is so much more than flowers. Each competing community is judged on greening through environmental, as well as natural heritage conservation and horticultural actions by citizens and municipalities.  The wonderful flower displays, and the magnificent hanging baskets downtown draw the attention and admiration of millions of visitors in the spring and summer.

In Niagara-on-the-Lake, I love saying that “history walks beside you”. This was one of the first towns settled in Ontario and was declared the capital of Upper Canada in 1792. It was first settled by United Empire Loyalists. People who were loyal to the British crown and who fled the US after the American revolution. In fact, the US border is nearby, just offshore in the middle of the Niagara River. This historic town boasts a number of National Historic sites and wonderfully restored homes in old town.

It’s hard to understand the deep heritage of this town without knowing how it suffered during the War of 1812. The US declared war on Britain in June of 1812 and prepared to attack its closest colony, Canada. The first major attack was at Queenston Heights, but the British were victorious despite the death of General Brock.  By 1813 the Americans forces were better trained and attacked Niagara in what is known as the Battle of Fort George. They were successful with overwhelming forces and the town was then occupied by the American militia for over 6 months. After the American occupation of Niagara, desertion and disease had reduced the American soldiers’ numbers and by December 1813 they decided to withdraw from Canada to Fort Niagara across the river. But before they left, they (and some Canadian traitors) burned and destroyed the whole town during a winter snowstorm. Virtually every home was put to the torch before being reclaimed by the British. In anger, the British troops retaliated and within 3 months had burned the towns of Lewiston and Buffalo across the river in New York State thus laying waste to the whole Niagara Peninsula.

In the years after the war, the town was rebuilt in that beautiful Regency/Neo-Classic style… also known in the US as Federalist. These magnificent 200-year-old homes still stand in all their restored beauty in the quiet tree lined streets of old town today. Niagara-on-the-Lake became one of the first towns in Ontario to have a recognized National Historic District and the old town district offers the largest inventory of heritage buildings in Canada constructed between 1817 and 1850.

Niagara-on-the-Lake has a lot of natural beauty because it is surrounded on one side by Lake Ontario, with its many moods, and on the other by the mighty Niagara River. The beautiful water views add so much to the charm of our town and help attract nearly 3 million people during tourist season. Many flock to our shoreline and the views of Toronto 32 miles across the lake.

Another interesting fact about Niagara-on-the-Lake is that it is the point for marathon swimmers to start when swimming across the lake to Toronto. In the early 1950s, marathon swimming was a very popular sport. One of the best of the marathoners was young Marilyn Bell and in 1954 she became the first to swim the lake from Niagara to the Toronto shoreline at the age of only 16. It took her 24 hours and captured the imagination of all Canadians.  It seems every year more swimmers attempt this grueling 32-mile swim route. There is a plaque in Queens Royal Park honoring these successful swimmers and I’m proud to say my son’s name is on the plaque. I accompanied him (in the luxury of a boat) on his successful 19-hour swim in 2008.

There are seven National Historic sites in our small town protected and maintained by Parks Canada. The most popular with visitors is Fort George. The fort was built around 1800 but was destroyed during the War of 1812. In May of 1813 it was attacked and burned by the Americans. Following the attack and the destruction by “hot shot’ from cannons at Fort Niagara, the town was occupied by American forces. Fort George was carefully restored in the 1930’s based on accurate drawings that still existed in England.  Today it welcomes as many as 100,000 visitors from all over the world and costumed interpreters teach tourists and students alike about the impact of the War of 1812. Our nearby houses shudder with the sounds of cannon fire during reenactments in the summer.

Culture, along with heritage, thrive in this town. For instance, the successful Shaw Festival theater started in the 1960’s and now the Shaw is considered a world class theater destination. In the past 50 years, this theater that has brought with it a cultural rebirth to the town.  Now, along with the Shaw we have a number of summer music festivals, including classical music presented by Music Niagara and the annual Jazz Festival which brings music to town parks and wineries.

Niagara-on-the-Lake is a “must visit,” and a wonderful gem on the shores of Lake Ontario.

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JOHN BLANCHETTE (February 26, 1946 – March 4, 2014)

In late autumn the rolling hills of the Palouse in Eastern Washington and North Idaho turn to gold as wheat ripens over thousands of acres and giant green combines crawl over the fields like giant locusts harvesting grain.

Rain is scarce in this region and wheat, barley, legumes, especially chickpeas and lentils, respond well to the dry farming.

When irrigated the rich earth will grow most anything and fruit orchards are plentiful, providing pears, plums, cherries, peaches, apples, etc. World-class vineyards take advantage of the terroir and 22 varieties of vegetables, from carrots to tomatoes are commercially farmed along with grass, vegetable and flower seeds.  Berries of all types are a major crop including wild huckleberries, which cannot be cultivated and are also coveted by deer, elk, moose and bears, who freely roam the land with an avian brotherhood that includes wild turkeys, hawks, eagles, ducks and geese.  With so much abundance of flora and fauna, hunting and fishing are popular pastimes along with water sports and white water rafting in this land of 76 lakes and numerous wild rivers.

Spokane is the major city in the region with a population of 210,000 and half a million in the surrounding area, the largest urban hub between Seattle and Minneapolis.

There are over 20 wineries in Spokane, most with tasting rooms, and I indulged at Barrister. The owners are lawyers, accounting for the label. Headquartered in a historic brick building you enter off a back alley, like you might a prohibition-era speakeasy.

There are a number of excellent universities in the Inland Northwest including Gonzaga, Washington State, University of Idaho, Eastern Washington University, Lewis and Clark, North Idaho College, Whitworth, etc.  It is a rural but enlightened community that emphasizes agricultural science and puts its products into the hands of some great chefs, restaurants and specialty food producers whose creations I fully enjoyed as I traveled the Inland Northwest along the corridor of Eastern Washington and the North Idaho panhandle.

Shaped like a little house on the prairie with the panhandle forming its chimney, Idahoans are particular about area names.  It is North Idaho and not northern and Moscow is in Russia (as I was told several times), Mosco(h) is the way they pronounce it in North Idaho.  No matter how you say it, the countryside is rich and abundant and the cities and towns have retained their architectural heritage. Fifty percent of Spokane’s downtown buildings are protected as historic sites.

Over several days I explored the bounty and inviting landscape of the area on a culinary tour of the vineyards, farm stands and restaurants, first driving north from Spokane towards Sandpoint, Idaho, about 80 miles, I then circled south through the lake lands and farms toward Coeur d’Alene (a term applied to the Indian traders by the French for their sharp business skills, literally “heart of an awl”) and then south 70 miles to Moscow, home to the University of Idaho and the Co-Op, the largest grocery store in town and full of all local organically produced products. Traveling west seven miles to Pullman, the city is home to Washington State University and one of my favorite stops, Ferdinand’s Creamery for Cougar Gold cheddar cheese (which comes in a 30 ounce can for $18) and the ice cream parlor, all run by students.

Heading north again 50 miles I finished the loop in Spokane, where I stayed at the historic and some believe haunted, Davenport Hotel and at the Northern Quest Resort and Casino near the airport.

Other hotels included the Coeur d’Alene Resort with spectacular views of the lake, mountains and harbor off the bedroom porch and the University Inn in Moscow, across from the campus.

One of my best dining experiences was in Spokane at Italia Trattoria in the restored Browne’s Addition section of the city. Chef Anna Vogel trained with Tom Douglas in Seattle and her gnocchi is the best I’ve ever had.

In the town of Colbert, Washington I visited Green Bluff Growers and Walters Fruit Ranch, where children can take a wild train ride through the orchards, play with the farm animals or pick their own pumpkin from the patch while adults shop in the farm store, pick their own fruit in the orchards or eat the best apple pie in the Northwest.  Down the road in Post Falls, Idaho is DOMA Coffee Roasting Company, a must stop for a weary traveler.

In Coeur d’Alene I dined al fresco at Settlers Creek farmstead on wood grilled meats, fish and vegetables from local farmers, accompanied by local beer and wine.

In Moscow, Nectar in old town near the University has a talented young chef in Nikki Woodland.

David Blaine, the chef not the magician, although he is magical in the kitchen, prepared our lunch at Latah Bistro in Spokane serving breads made with local wheat.  The farmer who grew the crop also dined with us.

I met a number of farmers on the tour, all tall, knowledgeable and eloquent in the descriptions of their life and work.  Men who love and care for the earth they tend, sow and plow and the crops and animals they harvest for food.

Back in Spokane I had my final meal at Masselows, the elegant restaurant at the Northern Quest Resort and Casino, prepared by chef Robert Rogers.

Wineries visited included Arbor Crest, which offers a panoramic view of Spokane from the vineyard tasting room at Eagle’s Nest estate, former home of inventor Royal Riblet. Trazzi farm, located north of Spokane, specializes in Italian style wines, Bistro Rouge Cafe in Sandpoint has an extensive pizza and salad menu using locally sourced ingredients and the attached Pend d’Oreille Winery makes an extraordinary rosé, blending huckleberry wine and Riesling. Coeur d’ Alene Cellars is located in an industrial park within the city and winemaker Warren Schutz is a master of Rhone varietals.

No-Li Brewhouse in Spokane makes a nice India Pale All and next door is Dry Fly Distilling for Vodka, Gin and Whisky made from local wheat and other grains, if you want a chaser with your beer.

With brochures, wine guides and further information you can successfully conduct your own culinary tour of the Inland Northwest border areas of Eastern Washington State and North Idaho and to discover the fresh, locally sourced meats and produce prepared by farmers and chefs who understand the importance of doing it right when cultivating an evolving food and beverage landscape.

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This installment of Three Things About Loudoun County is courtesy of Richard Carroll, award-winning journalist  and Traveling Boy writer.

1. Question: What are some of the “things” or activities that the people of Loudoun County do for fun?

Answer:

Loudouners enjoy a large number of award-winning, family-owned wineries, many offering live music, entertainment, and concerts. The gorgeous tree-dappled county has six striking golf courses, and for Loudoun’s organic aficionados some 27 weekend markets and farms to browse. Loudoun’s famed Horse Country is lively throughout spring, summer, and fall with Steeple Chase events, Polo Matches, Jumper Shows, and the celebrated, international competition at the Middleburg Spring Races. There are also countless horse trails ideal for casual weekend riders. Loudouners experience the good life with fine dining and impressive wine lists led by celebrity Chef Santosh Tiptur who creates unique chocolate-infused cuisine in Conche, located in the historic village of Leesburg.

2. Question: What’s one thing the public probably does NOT know about Loudoun County?

Answer:

Loudoun is among the most affluent counties in the United States which may be why there are more horses in Loudoun than any other county in Virginia. Long noted for a booming equestrian lifestyle, fashionable Middleburg, regarded as the heart and soul of Loudoun’s horse country, is dotted with Horse Farms, Pony Clubs, and Equestrian Centers. Loudoun, with 697 acres of vineyards and 42 wineries, is the fifth largest wine/grape producer in the country, and is also listed among the most historic counties on the East Coast of the United States.

3. Question: Share some aspect of what Loudoun County has contributed to the world.

Answer:

Loudoun County, established in 1757, has throughout the years retained its dramatic Civil War history and significant personalities, preserving them for written history, scholars, visitors, and generations to come. The mansions, plantations, gardens, and battle sites that have been part of Loudoun’s history, are incredibly intact. The historic towns of Purcellville, Hillsboro, Middleburg, the village of Waterford, a National Landmark, and Leesburg, each with a distinctive identity and personality, all have tales to tell. The Leesburg area has an enormous 21 entries on the National Register of Historic Places with 63 historic markers in or near Leesburg, while the village’s Historic District, also on the National Register of Historic Places, is considered one of the best preserved and most charming downtowns in Virginia.

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Hauntingly striking, the county is criss-crossed like a thoughtfully designed masterpiece puzzle with two-lane undulating roads that are densely lined with trees and intertwine to connect 42 organic and sustainable wineries where a world of flavor awaits. Grouped into six Wine Clusters, the 697 acres of neatly planted vineyards create a gleam from the earth that is memorable. Because Virginia wine is youthful, like a strapping teenager anxious to encounter the world, the wineries are still relatively unknown, despite the fact the State has 10 wine regions and is the fifth largest wine/grape producer in the country.

Loudoun wineries were set in motion when Willowcroft Farm Vineyards planted the first vines in 1980. While that first planting was largely unsuccessful, the second planting in 1981 was triumphant and in 1984 the winery opened its doors to the public. A host of dedicated winemakers soon followed, creating a budding wine region in Northeast Virginia.

Loudoun, noted as the most affluent county in the country, has an intriguing assemblage of family-managed wineries ranging from grand estate-like venues to smaller farm-style wineries. Several offer matchless 360* views reaching to the monuments in Washington D.C. The emerging county is taking a big step forward with their award-winning Bordeaux-style wines along with a multitude of other varietals.

Stone Tower Winery

The farm-style buildings emerge amidst a glorious setting of rolling hillsides intermingled with vineyards and ponds reaching into the foothills of the Appalachians which contribute old world soil to a young wine industry. Farming Bordeaux-style, Stone Tower produces 15,000 cases a year featuring the thick-skinned Petite Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet and Viognier grapes, using traditional Bordeaux bottles and French Oak. At the end of the day, Stone Tower employees are allowed to pour a glass of their favorite wine and enjoy nature at its grandest, a nice tradition for this hard-working winery.

Doukenie Winery

Winemaker Sebastien Marquet, 46, born in Burgundy said, “At age 14 I informed my parents I wanted to make wine. What could they say? They were all winemakers, including my Grandfather.” Marquet produces 5,800 cases yearly, has been honored with a satchel full of Gold Medals, and explains that Merlot is a secret love from Burgundy that expresses itself nicely from old vines and is intense and layered after aging for three years in French Oak. Check for music concerts on weekends. Staying in touch with his heritage, Marquet leads 20 guests every two years on a seven-day Burgundy wine tour.

Sunset Hills Vineyards

This 1870 Amish farm, recently converted to a stunning wine destination, opened its appealing two-tier tasting room in 2008, incorporating fine Amish woodwork in the design. With views of the Short Hill Mountain Range, connoisseurs of wine will enjoy a 2016 Chardonnay with nuances of green apple, hand-picked and harvested in-house along with 15 other grape varietals. Sommelier Matt Riley said, “We don’t have television, so guests come here to enjoy a taste of wine, our fresh bread, and chocolate, and spend hours rediscovering the art of conversation. Our 80,000 vines produce Bordeaux-style Viognier, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. We fenced the vineyards to keep the deer and young bears out, both of whom love our fruit.”

868 Estate Vineyards

A one-stop, all-consuming destination, 868 opened in 2012 with 120-acres planted with 21 Bordeaux-style varietals. Their wines are 90% estate grown, the vineyard is dog friendly, and their barn cat, Franc, owns the place. The toasty and firmly balanced Cabernet Franc and Merlot Blends can be enjoyed in the adjoining Grandale Vintner’s Table which has been honored for their sustainable wine-amenable cuisine. Expansive verdant grounds with a colorful butterfly garden host a series of summer concerts, barbecues, and weddings.

Breaux Vineyards

An elaborate estate-style winery with design touches straight out of New Orleans, Breaux is striking. Its amenities include beautiful vineyards, a sizeable tasting room, and for those on a winery tour a location that is only a quick two-minute drive from 868. Large sweeping patios overlook the vineyards and Blue Ridge Mountains and the sunsets are a traditional evening pleasure. Honored with ‘Best of Class” at the LA Country Fair Wine Competition, Breaux considers Viogner Virgina’s signature grape, while the silky smooth 2013 Nebbiolo produced from old Italian vines is a Breaux favorite.

Bluemont Vineyard

Bluemont, at the very west end of the county and the 1,000 mile mark on the Appalachian Trail, overlooks Loudoun Valley, and from the front patio those with a telescope on a clear day can spot the Washington Monument. The Zurschmeide family, farmers through and though, offer seven small-lot Bordeaux-style varietals, producing 6,600 cases each year for their Wine Club Members. Vivacious Hailey Zurschmeide said, “We have a farm-to-table restaurant, bake our own bread, have four accommodations available, and we have proposals in the vines along with wild turkeys, bear, and deer. On the 4^th of July, guests can watch 13 firework shows while enjoying dinner and a glass of wine.”

Fabbioli Cellars

Owner Doug Fabbioli is a passionate icon honored as the “Godfather of Loudoun Wines”. His heart is always in accord with the rhythm of his vines, the unpredictable weather, and the clusters of fruit ready for harvest. Fabbioli, with his Italian heritage shining, and his hands animated, explains that his 10 years at the distinguished Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma California were spent learning different techniques from different winemakers, techniques he then generously shared with a number of Loudoun County winemakers. He said, “We opened in 2005 and use what works such as the Cab Franc, the Bordeaux blends, Petit Verdot, and we do Zinfandel quite well.” Softly understated, Fabbioli has won more than 20 ribbons, and is also distinguished for fine dessert wines which blend nicely with the small bites offered at the wine tasting table.

Boxwood Estate Winery

Winemaker and Vineyard Manager James Kress, a U.C. Davis graduate, produces 100% estate Bordeaux style blends with assistance from Stephane Derenoncourt, the distinguished French vigneron Bordeaux consultant. Boxwood’s vines spread across one of the initial horse farms in Middelburg, a prominent Historic Landmark, which today has been transformed into an imposing AVA designated wine grape-growing area. Kress works exclusively with French clones, the fruit harvested and sorted by hand, fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. The smooth and silky 2015 Topiary, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot, has an elegant balance of fruit and earth, and a bouquet that can sweep one back to the sidewalk cafés in Bordeaux.

Carroll Vineyards at Leesburg Vintner

Mike Carroll (no relation) has a wine boutique on South King Street in Old Town Leesburg. In business since 1988, Carroll has a vineyard just south of town, is a great resource for travelers, and offers tastings at his wine bar.

When you go

Wine tasting from $5 to $15, live entertainment in most wineries on weekends, wine tours available, fashionable venues for wedding events, and family friendly; check for opening hours.

Visit Loudon

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