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		<title>Hadrian’s Wall: All Roads Really do Lead to Rome</title>
		<link>https://travelingboy.com/travel/hadrians-wall-all-roads-really-do-lead-to-rome/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Ed Boitano]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Dec 2023 02:41:55 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[World Travel]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>What can be said that has not already been said about Hadrian's Wall: A marvel of Roman ingenuity, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the last frontier of the Roman Empire. A stretch of 73 miles of stones from sea to sea, covering the entire width of the island of Britannia, from Wallsend on the River Tyne in the east to Bowness-on-Solway in the west. A Wall up to 15ft. in height and 6 ft. deep with large forts and smaller mile castles with intervening turrets. It took six years of work by skilled Roman legionary masons, along with thousands of auxiliary soldiers, to build. Upon its completion, the Wall was fully manned by almost 10,000 Roman soldiers to protect the Roman province of Britannia, Imperial Rome's final province and frontier, from the barbaric Caledonians of the north.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/hadrians-wall-all-roads-really-do-lead-to-rome/">Hadrian’s Wall: All Roads Really do Lead to Rome</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
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										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p class="has-drop-cap">What can be said that has not already been said about Hadrian&#8217;s Wall: A marvel of Roman ingenuity, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the last frontier of the Roman Empire. A stretch of 73 miles of stones from sea to sea, covering the entire width of the island of Britannia, from Wallsend on the River Tyne in the east to Bowness-on-Solway in the west. A Wall once believed to be 15 ft. in height and 6 ft. deep with large forts and smaller mile castles and intervening turrets. It took six years of work by skilled Roman engineers and masons, along with thousands of auxiliary soldiers, to build. Upon its completion, the Wall was fully manned by approximately 10,000 Roman soldiers to protect the Roman province of Britannia, Imperial Rome&#8217;s final province and frontier, from the barbaric Caledonians of the north.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/AtTheWall-1024x768.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37756" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/AtTheWall-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/AtTheWall-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/AtTheWall-768x576.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/AtTheWall-850x638.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/AtTheWall.jpg 1080w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /><figcaption>Tour guide Peter Carney explains the width and perspective of the massive stones which built Hadrian&#8217;s Wall. Photograph by Deb Roskamp.</figcaption></figure><p>The Wall was not only intended as a defensive structure, protecting the civilized Roman world from the unconquered barbarians in the north, but stood as a testament of Rome&#8217;s will and might. It was a propaganda statement, but also served as a census bureau, for the Romans were meticulous record keepers, and wanted to know who was in and who was out. It was the equivalent of a modern-day protection racket, for each person who would pass through the wall was taxed; you were protected, but you would have to pay for it. And tax and trade were among the many things that defined the Roman Empire.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PeterCarney-1024x768.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37757" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PeterCarney-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PeterCarney-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PeterCarney-768x576.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PeterCarney-850x638.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PeterCarney.jpg 1080w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /><figcaption> &#8216;Don&#8217;t just walk the ruins, understand Roman life.&#8217; &#8211; Peter Carney. Photo by Deb Roskamp.</figcaption></figure><p>But now, my real education, an oral one, of the history of Hadrian&#8217;s Wall would begin by booking a personalized tour with the passionate tour guide extraordinaire, Mr. Peter Carney. My day commenced with Mr. Carney driving us 16 miles from North West England&#8217;s city of Carlisle, to a place where locals simply refer to as the Wall. His narration began almost immediately, explaining why Hadrian&#8217;s Wall was built, what it did and how it changed the course of human and technological history. But this piece of history does not begin or end with the Wall; it&#8217;s as much about the history of the Roman Empire as well as the world we live in today.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img decoding="async" width="628" height="578" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo3.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37657" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo3.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo3-300x276.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>The Roman Emperor, Hadrian (76-138 ACE) focused on securing the empire&#8217;s existing borders, and also refrained from the clean-shaven look of his predecessors. Photograph taken by Deb Roskamp at the Roman Army Museum at Hadrian&#8217;s Wall.</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Wall That Bears His Name</h2><p class="has-drop-cap">Caesar Traianus Hadrianus, Roman emperor from 117 to 138 ACE, was known for his travels throughout the empire, devoting much of his time to civil and military constructions. He was considered to be a benevolent dictator as his interventions generally went unchallenged. And this included building projects, in particular, building projects in which he had designed. Prior to the advent of Hadrian&#8217;s Wall, he constructed the <em>Arch of Hadrian</em> in Athens, the <em>Temple of Venus and Roman Arch of Hadrian</em> and rebuilt the <em>Pantheon</em> in Rome. Many of the world&#8217;s most famous structures and monuments may lay claim as an homage to others, but were also intended to be an homage unto oneself, where the wealthy have branded their buildings with their own names and logos, even more so today. No lists required.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="733" height="623" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo4.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37656" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo4.jpg 733w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo4-300x255.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 733px) 100vw, 733px" /><figcaption>Photograph taken by Deb Roskamp at the Roman Army Museum at Hadrian&#8217;s Wall.</figcaption></figure></div><p>Hadrian had drawn the design for his Wall without ever having visited the new Roman province of Britannia before. Prior to his arrival, the province had suffered a major rebellion (119 to 121 ACE), comprising some 3,000 soldiers. This might have had something to do about his arrival in Britannia in 122 ACE, but most sources have indicated that it was really more for him to see the early construction of his Wall and then to revise it, and perhaps revise it again.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/HadrianWayDebRoscamp-1024x768.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37683" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/HadrianWayDebRoscamp-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/HadrianWayDebRoscamp-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/HadrianWayDebRoscamp-768x576.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/HadrianWayDebRoscamp-850x637.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/HadrianWayDebRoscamp.jpg 1331w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /><figcaption>Deb Roskamp&#8217;s photographic realization of one of the many stretches of Hadrian&#8217;s Wall.</figcaption></figure></div><p>It was a herculean task to construct the Wall, almost unimaginable in its day, where Roman masons and auxiliary were relentlessly challenged by harsh windswept fields, wide rivers and rolling hills that were not conducive to Hadrian&#8217;s initial plans. But Hadrian and his builders, like the Roman Empire itself, could not be stopped, making brilliant use of local geographical features. The well-known Central Sector ran 12 miles along the crags, with the east Wall placed on a long ridge running eastwards to Newcastle, while the west Wall was often located on shorter ridges, allowing views of the north to improve the mobility of the army in the event of Celtic attacks in the frontier.</p><p>There is still no conclusive evidence to determine when Hadrian&#8217;s Wall was actually completed. An inscription suggests that at least one part of Wall was finalized around 128 ACE, six years after Hadrian left Britannia. He never saw what is believed to be the finished Wall, the Wall that bears his name… but his name and Wall will always remain the same.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="alignright size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="360" height="256" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoA.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37654" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoA.jpg 360w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoA-300x213.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoA-104x74.jpg 104w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 360px) 100vw, 360px" /><figcaption>Gaius Julius Caesar (100-44 BCE) was a man who, by the power of his will and ability, overthrew the Roman Republic and established the Roman Empire. Photograph of statue via eminent domain.</figcaption></figure></div><h3 class="wp-block-heading">Julius Caesar and Britannia</h3><p>The first direct Roman contact with Britannia began when Julius Caesar undertook two expeditions in 55 and 54 BCE, believing the Britannic people were helping the Gallic resistance in what is today&#8217;s France. The first expedition was more of a reconnaissance one than a full invasion, only gaining a foothold on the coast of Kent,<em> </em>a county in South East&nbsp;England, unable to advance further due to storm damage to his ships. Despite what he thought was a failure, it was a political success, with the Roman Senate declaring a 20-day public holiday in honor of Caesar&#8217;s achievement of obtaining hostages and pacifying small tribes. The second invasion involved a substantially larger force where Caesar coerced many of the tribes to pay tribute in return for peace. This concluded with the surrender of the warlord, Cassivellaunus, and the installation of the more Roman-friendly king, Mandubracius. Caesar conquered no territory and left no troops behind, but established new trade partners and brought Britannia into Rome&#8217;s sphere of influence.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Remember Vindolanda</h2><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="628" height="274" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo6.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37652" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo6.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo6-300x131.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>After Hadrian&#8217;s Wall and the Roman occupation ended, Vindolanda, a former Roman fort and garrison, remained in use for over 400 years before finally becoming abandoned in the 9th century. Photograph by Deb Roskamp.</figcaption></figure></div><p>The Vindolanda site today contains a modern world-class museum using the latest interpretation techniques which convey the mysteries of Roman life at the Wall. The Vindolanda Writing Tablets, thin slivers of wood covered in unique Latin scribble, were found in the oxygen-free deposits, buried beneath the wooden fort&#8217;s floor. They are the oldest surviving handwritten documents in Britain.</p><p>In 2018 the museum was extended with an underworld gallery, housing collections of 2,000-year-old artifacts, which included everything from a wooden toilet seat to a children&#8217;s toy sword.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="573" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/BringsdToLife-1024x573.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37758" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/BringsdToLife-1024x573.jpg 1024w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/BringsdToLife-300x168.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/BringsdToLife-768x430.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/BringsdToLife-850x475.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/BringsdToLife.jpg 1080w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /><figcaption>Peter Carney brings to life the components of daily life at the former Roman fort and garrison of Vindolanda; the place where soldiers would eat, drink, bathe, play games, visit prostitutes, fight amongst themselves and sleep in three-square metres of shelter with eight other men at the average height of 5’7″. Photograph by Deb Roskamp.</figcaption></figure></div><p>It could be a cold and lonely life for a Roman soldier stationed at Vindolanda, where heavy rains and chilling winds would often be a daily occurrence. Many of the solders had arrived from the warm climate of the highy populated Italian Peninsula, and for new Roman commanders and their families, it was akin to a blunt slap in the face in comparison to their early life of luxury in the capital city of Rome.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="973" height="650" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo8.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37650" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo8.jpg 973w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo8-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo8-768x513.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo8-850x568.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 973px) 100vw, 973px" /><figcaption>Photograph of Vindolanda taken by Deb Roskamp.</figcaption></figure><p>Vindolanda has attracted archaeological attention for more than a century, but many mysteries still surround it. Students and amateur archeologists volunteer their time and money for digs and lodging  during the summer, but often never make it in due to the long list applicant</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="alignleft size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="360" height="554" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoB.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37649" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoB.jpg 360w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoB-195x300.jpg 195w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 360px) 100vw, 360px" /><figcaption>The bust of Claudius (10 BCE &#8211; 54 ACE).  Photograph courtesy of Darius Arya, The American Institute for Roman Culture, &#8220;Claudius,&#8221; via Creative Commons.</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Claudius, the last person considered to be an Emperor</h2><p>Emperor Tiberius Claudius Caesar Augustus Germanicus was born August 10 BCE at Lugdunum (modern Lyon, France). He was the first Roman Emperor be born outside of Italy, and was ridiculed throughout his life by speaking a rustic form of Latin. His pedigree came from the Julio-Claudian dynasty; Claudius from his father&#8217;s side, Julian from his mother&#8217;s side of the family. The mocking Claudius received upon speaking rudimentary Latin was not unusual, for he had been ridiculed most of life. At a young age, due to sickness, he had a limp and slight deafness, and was ostracized by his family and kept hidden from the Roman aristocratic eye. In a sense, this was was good for him, for potential enemies did not see him as a serious threat, thus saving him from the fate of assassinations and purges of earlier powerful Romans. By the time of Claudius&#8217; adolescent years, his physical symptoms seemed to subside, and Rome&#8217;s senators and patricians began to notice his intelligence and scholarly interests. Nevertheless, Claudius did he best to remain out of view, pleased that there was no hope for advancement, which was exactly what he did not want. </p><p>But the new emperor, Caligula, his relative, did recognize Claudius to be of some use as a historian, and appointed him as his co-consul in 37 ACE to inflate the memory of Caligula&#8217;s deceased father, Germanicus. After Caligula&#8217;s assassination, despite Claudius hiding as an act of survival, he was declared emperor by the Praetorian Guard, as the last adult male of his family.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="535" height="287" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoC.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37653" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoC.jpg 535w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoC-300x161.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 535px) 100vw, 535px" /><figcaption>An aurum goldcoin of Claudius, inscribed with &#8220;Victory over the Britons&#8221; (De[victis] Britann[is]) via eminent domain.</figcaption></figure></div><p>As an emperor, Claudius was considered to be fair and and efficient. He constructed new roads, aqueducts and canals across the Roman empire, and restored its finances after the excesses of Caligula&#8217;s reign. He issued new reformations; ranging from the mandatory death of a slave owner who kills his own slave, to public flatulation, believing it will lead to a healthful life.</p><p>But the manifestations of Claudius&#8217; new physical condition were difficult to ignore: his head shook and his body buckled under weak knees. He slobbered and stammered when under stress, making his speech almost incomprehensible. Historians assume his stress was from the fear of his own assassination. Several coup attempts had already been made during the first year of his realm, and he was aware that it could happen at any moment. And so he did everything in his power not to offend his armies; rewarding the Praetorian Guard with coins and tributes, and resorting to bribery to secure loyalty. One of the major themes of the Roman Empire was expansionism, and Claudius made an important calculated decision: keep the generals busy and hide them from the Roman capital by sending them off to distant lands to conquer. And one of those distant lands was an island off the western coast of Europe which Julius Caesar had named Britannia.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="802" height="968" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoD.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37648" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoD.jpg 802w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoD-249x300.jpg 249w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoD-768x927.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 802px) 100vw, 802px" /><figcaption>Roman marble relief of the Praetorian Guard in full uniform via  eminent domain.</figcaption></figure></div><p>In 43 ACE, Claudius sent the general and politician, Aulus Plautius, with four legions to Britannia, under the guise of an appeal from an ousted tribal ally. Claudius himself traveled to the island after the completion of initial offensives, bringing with him a massive army and reinforcements, which also  included elephants, an unknown beast that had a demoralizing effect on the enemy. Claudius knew that no people could ever withstand the might of the Romans with their highly trained centurions, legionaries and auxiliary who would march into battle with precision, as a unit in tortoise shell formations, using advanced technical warfare, so advanced that the Celts had never even seen such a force before. It was akin to a Martian landing for the local tribes, witnessing Roman legionaries jumping from their fleet of vessels into rough waters, and then swimming fully dressed in heavy steel armor, carrying swords and supplies, prepared to battle the second they walked on the shore.</p><p>Emperor Claudius, whose dominionship began in 41 ACE, was murdered by poison in year 54, perhaps due to a conspiracy between the senate and the Praetorian Guard, but some assumed it was by his 4th and final wife, Agrippina.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Final Conquest</h2><figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="881" height="662" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo9.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37647" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo9.jpg 881w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo9-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo9-768x577.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo9-850x639.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 881px) 100vw, 881px" /><figcaption>The Caledonian&#8217;s defeat at the Battle of Mons Graupius marked the beginning of the new Roman province of Britannia. Photograph courtesy of Deb Roskamp taken at the Hadrian&#8217;s Wall Roman Army Museum.</figcaption></figure><p>The Roman conquest of Britannia finally ended under the command of Gnaeus Julius Agricola in 84 ACE, with the Roman armies&#8217; slaughter of the Caledonians at the Battle of Mons Graupius. Celtic casualties were estimated to be upwards of 10,000 and about 360 on the Roman side. The battle ended the forty-year conquest of Britannia, a conquest that saw approximately 250,000 Celtic people killed. Thus, the new province of Romano-Britannia was officially born with Aulus Plautius as the first governor of the new province.</p><p><strong>Things Change</strong></p><p>From 43 to ACE 410, in the Roman province of Britannia, all people became Romanized and enjoyed the full rights of Roman citizenship. And Britannia&#8217;s former landscape, which had once consisted of broken paths, crumbling stick homes and savage Celtic warriors with only blue tattoos covering their bodies, became endowed with Romano-Britannic culture. Their world transitioned to a network of 1,500 Roman roads, some still used today, leading to well-planned city centers and forums with monumental architecture held together with the Roman invention of concrete. Fountains, bathhouses, arenas for music, plays and poetry flourished throughout the new province. Aqueducts fed new homes with running water for bathing, indoor sewage, and some with heated floors. And through trade, Rome&#8217;s new citizens would be introduced to unknown spices, unique tools and mechanics. People who lived in rural areas discovered new forms of agriculture, grains and advanced methods of farming. In times of famine, it was no longer necessary to raid a nearby tribe or neighbor to survive.</p><p>The new Romanized people were allowed to live and travel wherever they liked without any form of confliction, as did Roman citizens who settled in Roman Britannia, bringing new ideas and new cultures from the far corners of the empire. And they were all protected by the Wall which Hadrian had built.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-full is-resized"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoE.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37646" width="840" height="503" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoE.jpg 936w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoE-300x180.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoE-768x460.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoE-850x509.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 840px) 100vw, 840px" /><figcaption>Constantine I was a Roman emperor from 306 to 337 ACE. He reunited the Western and Eastern Roman Byzantine Empires, and moved the former capital city of Rome to Milan, then to Ravenna and finally to his namesake city of Constantinople. He also built his own Walls, a series of defensive stone ones, which surrounded and protected his new capital city.  After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the Eastern Roman Byzantine Empires survied for another 900 years. Photograph of statue courtesy of rome.us.</figcaption></figure><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Roman Emperor Constantine I: The Edict of Milan</h2><p class="has-drop-cap">In the year 313 ACE, Roman Emperor Constantine I, along with the Emperor Lininius, who controlled the Balkans<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balkans">,</a> issued the Edict of Milan, a proclamation that promised religious tolerance and freedom to be a Christian to all of citizens of Rome. Constantine kept his word, where he himself converted to Christianity, and became known as the &#8216;First Christian Emperor,&#8217; though many assumed he didn&#8217;t actually understand what it meant. Nevertheless, he is venerated as a saint in Eastern Christianity, and considered responsible for introducing this new religion to mainstream Roman culture, a culture who had once thought Christianity was just another new Jewish cult, this one dedicated to a man named Jesus who had once lived in an obscure part of the Roman world. Now, when new Christianized Roman legionaries arrived at the northen frontier, Christian Crosses were embedded on their shields, and the soldiers were morally shaken upon finding that the barbarity of druids, the high Celtic priests, actually preformed human sacrifices. As Rome transition Britannica to Christianity, as they had done to much of the known world, Constantine transitioned the Christian day of worship to Sunday.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="969" height="651" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoF.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37645" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoF.jpg 969w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoF-300x202.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoF-768x516.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoF-850x571.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 969px) 100vw, 969px" /><figcaption>While the province of Romano-Britannia fell, most of the Wall still remained.</figcaption></figure></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Antonine’s Wall</h2><p>Antonine’s Wall was a turf wall built on stones, initially intended to be Romano-Britannia’s furthest northern defense fortification and replace Hadrian’s Wall. But it was abandoned eight years after completion, when the Roman legions&nbsp;withdrew to Hadrian’s Wall in 162 ACE. The Caledonians north of the Wall were never fully defeated or occupied. The Roman sentiment was basically: &#8216;Why even bother with these savages, there&#8217;s really nothing up there anyway.&#8217; Today tours are readily available to Antonine’s Wall, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  &nbsp;</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">And in the end&#8230; </h2><p class="has-drop-cap">The Romano-Britannic province all seemed to work until it didn&#8217;t, when most of the Roman army pulled out to deal with far more important matters, such as to curtail invasions in Germania from the Franks, the Alemanni, the Goths and the Sarmatians, who stood at Rome&#8217;s doorsteps. The Western Roman Empire, whose empire had once spread from the damp gray of Britannia to the deserts of Arabia and to the river banks of the Nile, would eventually fall and become another empire, the Holy Roman Empire, with the Frankish king, Charlemagne, as its emperor.</p><p>The Romano-Britannic citizens were left with a scattering of Roman military with little real form of real protection from which would soon come from the remaining barbaric Celts in the north, the war-like Vikings of Scandinavia, the conquering pagan Saxons and Angles from Germania, endless tribal wars, a new Germanic language and a new Germanic name for their island: Angland.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-full is-style-default"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="951" height="406" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoG.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37644" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoG.jpg 951w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoG-300x128.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoG-768x328.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PhotoG-850x363.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 951px) 100vw, 951px" /><figcaption>A photograph taken of John Clayton, owned by the Trustees of the Clayton, and managed by English Heritage.</figcaption></figure><h2 class="wp-block-heading">John Clayton: The Savior of Hadrian&#8217;s Wall</h2><p class="has-drop-cap">John Clayton (1792-1890) was a lawyer, an antiquarian and the town clerk of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. During Clayton&#8217;s youth, his father purchased an 18th-century country mansion in Humshaugh, Northumberland, adjacent to Hadrian&#8217;s Wall. The ruins of the 2,000-year-old Roman fort, Cilurnum, ran through its front garden. Clayton enjoyed exploring and digging around the fort to the point of becoming an amateur archeologist. But, he became annoyed upon seeing local people loading the Wall&#8217;s stones into wheelbarrows for reusage in constructing their own buildings. This was not unusual for much the world was built from reusage, which included the stones and marble from the Roman Forum that helped build the Rome and Vatican City of today. But for Clayton, when his own stones were taken from his own property, it was something he could not bare. </p><figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="422" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/ViewFromSteelRig-1024x422.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37755" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/ViewFromSteelRig-1024x422.jpg 1024w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/ViewFromSteelRig-300x124.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/ViewFromSteelRig-768x316.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/ViewFromSteelRig-850x350.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/ViewFromSteelRig.jpg 1080w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /><figcaption>Deb Roskamp&#8217;s view from John Clayton&#8217;s Steel Rigg.</figcaption></figure><p>John Clayton, due to his successful lawyer-ship, had become wealthy and began purchasing large portions of the Wall and forts, and preserved them by placing sods of grass on their top. At the time of his passing, Clayton owned five forts as well as most of the Wall within 20-miles of his residence. &nbsp;I was informed by Mr. Carney that when we see contemporary maps dotted with English city names that end with: &#8216;-caster,&#8217; &#8216;-cester&#8217; and &#8216;-chester,&#8217; it is an indication that the city was once the site of a Roman military camp or fort.&nbsp;Another example how the Roman world still affect us today.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="628" height="420" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo11.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37642" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo11.jpg 628w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo11-300x201.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px" /><figcaption>Clayton preserved portions of the Wall by placing sods of grass on their top. Photograph by Deb Roskamp.</figcaption></figure></div><p>Perhaps this obituary about John Clayton says it best:</p><p><em>He strove to become the Wall&#8217;s possessor. By purchasing these sites, he brought them under his protection. He stopped quarrying near to the Wall, forbade the use of Roman stone for new buildings, and moved buildings away from the archaeology. Today, he&#8217;s remembered as &#8216;The Savior of Hadrian&#8217;s Wall.&#8217;</em></p><h2 class="wp-block-heading">Hadrian&#8217;s Wall Guided Walks with Peter Carney</h2><p>Below is not a paid sponsorship for a Peter Carney Hadrian&#8217;s Wall Tour. It is an important suggestion to join one of his tours, and your memory will be enhanced, just as mine has, where the memory of my own tour is carried with me each day.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://youtu.be/jSIX5cCBScg" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="747" height="426" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PeterCarneyYoutube.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37867" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PeterCarneyYoutube.jpg 747w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PeterCarneyYoutube-300x171.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PeterCarneyYoutube-384x220.jpg 384w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 747px) 100vw, 747px" /></a></figure><p>Contact: <a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="mailto:pe*********@ha***************.com" data-original-string="PGsSCieIsf73Kqvd1n5uv+irX83b/dGvCsoUoV0OgHyKz+WNphSf9h4I/+6afJEX" title="This contact has been encoded by Anti-Spam by CleanTalk. 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</span></a><br>Website: <a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.hadrianswall-walk.com/" target="_blank">www.hadrianswall-walk.com</a></p><p><strong><strong>POST SCRIPTUM</strong></strong>:  <strong>A few things that Julius Caesar left to the world</strong> </p><p>July, the Julian Calendar, Czar / Kaiser/ Cezary in Polish / Cezar in Romanian / César in French and Spanish / Caesarism / HMS Caesar / Caesarsboom (Caesar&#8217;s Tree).</p><p>For the Caesar Salad, however, it’s best to swing down to Old Mexico and visit Caesar&#8217;s Restaurant in Tijuana, and you&#8217;ll see its birthplace and how it was created by the Italian immigrant, Mr. Cesare Cardini, ninety-nine years ago.<em><strong> </strong></em>Here’s the history of <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/caesar-salad-caesar-cardini/">Caesar Cardini’s Iconic Caesar Salad</a> by T-Boy Food Critic, Audrey Hart.</p><p>‘Hail Caesar’ is a phrase that was used in the Roman Empire as a greeting, a way of showing respect to Julius Caesar. But after the phrase traveled to Germany and transition to &#8216;Heil Hitler,&#8217; it appears to be less popular today.</p><p><strong>PPS</strong>: <strong>Barbarian</strong></p><p>You might have noticed that I use the term, &#8216;Barbarian,&#8217; a number of times in the text. I&#8217;m aware that once a new word or names goes out to the world, over time it takes on a new meaning with different people. I studied the etymology of &#8216;Barbarian&#8217; within the context of the Roman Empire. It means, during the life of the Imperial Western Roman Empire, any person regardless of race, religion and ethnicity was branded a barbarian if they did not adhere to Greco-Roman culture. But, looking at the name within the context of the ancient Athenian world, it means: any person who did not speak Greek, spoke an incomprehensible language which sounded similar to a noise that a sheep makes: <em>&#8216;bah bah, bar bar, barbarian.</em></p><p></p><figure class="wp-block-image size-full is-resized"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo12.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-37641" width="840" height="560" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo12.jpg 915w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo12-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo12-768x513.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Photo12-850x568.jpg 850w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 840px) 100vw, 840px" /><figcaption>Stay tuned for the final installment of<em> What&#8217;s New &amp; Old in England&#8217;s North, </em>where this barbarian focuses on The Lake District and the Neolithic Castlerigg Stone Circle. Photograph courtesy of Deb Roskamp.</figcaption></figure><p>To see the first three installments in the series, visit:</p><p><a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/whats-new-and-old-in-london-part-i/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">What&#8217;s New and Old in London, Part I</a><br><a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/whats-new-and-old-in-london-part-2-2/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">What&#8217;s New and Old in London, Part 2</a><br><a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/whats-new-old-in-englands-north/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">What&#8217;s New &amp; Old in England&#8217;s North</a></p><p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/hadrians-wall-all-roads-really-do-lead-to-rome/">Hadrian’s Wall: All Roads Really do Lead to Rome</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
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		<title>Places in the Heart</title>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[T-Boy Society of Film &#38; Music]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Jun 2021 01:32:24 +0000</pubDate>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>With the U.S. seemingly winning the battle against the Covid pandemic, there’s a sense of euphoria that envelops our nation. But our hearts go out to T-Boy’s Canadian and Italian writers who are still in the thick of things, struggling with the pandemic. So, the fight continues and we look for better days of a united world that is Covid free. And, we must always remind ourselves to Donate to Direct Relief in support of our courageous frontline workers.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/places-in-the-heart/">Places in the Heart</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<figure class="wp-block-image"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="282" height="49" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/EdTravelingBoitabo.jpg" alt="Ed Boitano, Curator" class="wp-image-25638"/></figure><p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-887" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ireland_cross.jpg" alt="Holy Well Kilcredaun" width="800" height="525" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ireland_cross.jpg 800w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ireland_cross-600x394.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ireland_cross-300x197.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ireland_cross-768x504.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" /><br /><em>The enduring Celtic Cross.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo courtesy Tourism Ireland.</span></p>
<p> </p>
<h4><a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/meet-richard-carroll/">Richard Carrol</a>l &#8211; T-Boy writer:</h4>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;">Sightless Fiji</span></h2>
<p>Fiji has a profound long-lasting effect on my heart and soul. An island country deep in the South Pacific where nature comes miraculously alive with cloud rain forests, a lush tropical mountainous terrain, 333 islands, hundreds of islets, and sweeping views of a dark blue crystal clear sea, all of which seem to be suspended in time. Fiji&#8217;s dramatic setting of upscale island holiday hideaways offering pollution free skies, an unrelenting sun shimmering on glistening water, and palm-lined beaches, have attracted visitors from all parts of the world.</p>
<figure id="attachment_24573" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-24573" style="width: 405px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24573" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carroll-photo-5.jpg" alt="" width="405" height="720" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carroll-photo-5.jpg 405w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carroll-photo-5-169x300.jpg 169w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 405px) 100vw, 405px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-24573" class="wp-caption-text"><em>A Beeve Doctor and young boy with eyes that can now see. </em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo courtesy of Beeve Foundation.</span></figcaption></figure>
<p>I experienced a heart-tugging dilemma on one of numerous visits this time with Dr. Beeve, a noted eye physician and surgeon based in Glendale California and his wife Dorothy an RN, that unfortunately this ideal scenario of sun and sea is also a huge negative for the Fijian&#8217;s creating blinding cataracts affecting a huge number of Fijians of all ages along with other troubling eye difficulties.</p>
<p>Fijians travel from island to island in canoes and boats, fish and farm the ocean, swim before they can walk, and are living an island lifestyle which from birth seriously affects their eyesight. The stinging contrast is the Fijians might not be the happiest people on earth, but are affable and forthcoming, welcoming visitors with open arms, regardless of personal difficulties, of which are usually overlooked or ignored by tourists.</p>
<p>I found this distressing and heart-tugging drama unbelievably touching. Men unable to work and support their families because they are sightless, children born with eye deficiencies, a grandmother who has never seen her grandchildren, Fijians unable to leave their island because of poor eyesight, and young mothers who see their offspring as a milky blur. I noticed that even most of the dogs had cataracts too.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24571" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/carroll-Fiji-photo-2.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="750" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/carroll-Fiji-photo-2.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/carroll-Fiji-photo-2-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/carroll-Fiji-photo-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/carroll-Fiji-photo-2-850x638.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/carroll-Fiji-photo-2-600x450.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><em>Joyful Fijians in recovery after a Dr. Beeve eye operation.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo courtesy of Beeve Foundation.</span></p>
<p>Since that visit in 1991 when the Beeve&#8217;s established the Beeve Foundation, Dr. Beeve and his staff quickly realized that the Fijians were receiving very limited eye care and medication, and had no access to modern medicine. On their first mission with a small staff which included an anesthesiologist, ophthalmic surgical technologist, a dental hygienist, and an assistant who helped with pre and post op care, and patient education and vision testing, set up a makeshift eye clinic in Bure 2 on upscale Turtle Island. The word quickly spread and hundreds of sight-impaired Fijians formed a long line patiently standing in the blazing sun, some arriving via canoes days in advance, the line of canoes stretching to the horizon. Many Fijians I spoke with could not remember when they had vision and were spellbound when the day after surgery they gazed at Dr. Beeve with better than 20/40 vision. The Beeve&#8217;s said, &#8220;When we complete a cataract operation it&#8217;s like resurrecting someone from the dead. It&#8217;s an incredible feeling.&#8221;</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24572" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carroll-photo-3.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="572" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carroll-photo-3.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carroll-photo-3-300x172.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carroll-photo-3-768x439.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carroll-photo-3-850x486.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carroll-photo-3-384x220.jpg 384w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carroll-photo-3-600x343.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>The Beeve Foundation Team in Fiji.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo courtesy of the Beeve Foundation.</span></p>
<p>In 2017 the Beeve&#8217;s were honored for their more than 25 years of medical missions; 28,503 eye exams, issuing 27,714 pairs of glasses, 1,756 cataract extractions with lens implants, 55 corneal transplants, and 1,005 other procedures for more than 30,000 Fijian patients, the majority of whom were legally blind. Dr. Beeve and his wife Dorothy finally retired with Loma Linda University continuing the Fiji missions. In 2018 with a team of world-renowned cataract surgeons Loma Linda performed 137 surgeries in six days.</p>
<p>The Fijians live in a tropical paradise but with an ironic twist, but for a writer the unpredictability of travel can often leave a lingering memory, such as the Beeve&#8217;s and their Foundation successfully treating over three percent of the entire Fiji population.</p>
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<h4>Halina Kubalski &#8211; T-Boy writer and destination photographer:</h4>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;">A Memory of My Father</span></h2>
<figure id="attachment_24548" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-24548" style="width: 459px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class=" wp-image-24548" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/WiktorSurmacz.jpg" alt="" width="459" height="637" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-24548" class="wp-caption-text"><em>Wiktor Surmacz and fiancé Maria walking on Aleje Ujazdowskie in Warsaw, 1934.</em>   <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photograph courtesy of Halina Kubalski</span></figcaption></figure>
<p>My father, Wiktor Surmacz joined the Polish Army in 1934. After a few years he was promoted to the rank of Lieutenant in the Polish 179th Infantry Regiment, working closely under the command of General Franciszek Kleeberg when defending the Polish city of Kock, a town in eastern Poland about 120 kilometers southeast of Warsaw with a large Jewish population at the time.</p>
<p>On September 9, 1939 the German&#8217;s dropped bombs on the town and a fierce battle with the Germans took place. The Poles were badly over matched by the German 13th Motorized Corps and 60th Infantry Division, but fought gallantly lastly running short of ammunition with both sides suffering huge casualties. The final battles were fought October 2 &#8211; 5, and on October 6th after bombardment by heavy German artillery and outnumbered by the thousands, General Kleeberg surrendered.</p>
<figure id="attachment_24558" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-24558" style="width: 624px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24558" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Polishsoldiers.jpg" alt="" width="624" height="430" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Polishsoldiers.jpg 624w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Polishsoldiers-300x207.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Polishsoldiers-320x220.jpg 320w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Polishsoldiers-600x413.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 624px) 100vw, 624px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-24558" class="wp-caption-text"><em>Polish soldiers during the Battle of Kock.</em> (1939) <span style="font-size: x-small;">Public Domain</span></figcaption></figure>
<p>The Germans sent my father to the infamous Mauthausen Concentration Camp located on a hill above the market town of Mauthausen located 12 miles east of Linz. The Germans never released the accurate death toll at Mauthausen but it was calculated that between 130,000 to 320,000 perished in Mauthausen during the war years. My father never spoke about his five years as a prisoner but did say to his wife, my mother, Maria, &#8220;There was no food at Mauthausen.&#8221;</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24549" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/640px-Ebensee-survivors.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="526" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/640px-Ebensee-survivors.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/640px-Ebensee-survivors-300x247.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/640px-Ebensee-survivors-600x493.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Survivors at the Mauthausen concentration camp</em>. <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>He was later sent to a sub concentration camp, a farm labor camp that was bad if not worse than Mauthausen. Possibly the transfer took place due to the fact that dad spoke German. He was liberated in 1945 at the end of the war by U.S. troops weighing all of 80 pounds.</p>
<p>My father&#8217;s one and only visit to the United States, he was astonished at the boundless selection of food in the supermarkets. He passed May 8, 1984, age 73, after six weeks in a Warsaw hospital, his health badly damaged by his years as a prisoner of the Germans.</p>
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<h4><a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/meet-fyllis-hockman/">Fyllis Hockman</a> &#8211; T-Boy writer:</h4>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;">One of the Most Impactful Experiences in my Travel-Writing Career</span></h2>
<p>First a little background. As a teenager I had my first visual exposure to the horrors of the Holocaust in some newsreel depictions of the liberation of some camps after the war &#8211; the emaciated survivors with their sunken eyes, gaunt bodies and harrowed auras. I called my mother, who had told me of the Holocaust my whole life, and said: &#8220;Mom, I finally understand.&#8221; Now six decades later, I came to understand even more.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24552" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/discant.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="424" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/discant.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/discant-300x199.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/discant-600x398.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>The International Monument at the former Mauthausen concentration camp reads,<br />&#8220;The living learn from the fate of the deceased.&#8221;</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>Mauthausen, one of the largest of the camps, was built high upon a hill in Linz, Upper Austria, where Hitler was once a resident, near a large quarry. The rationale behind concentration camps evolved over the war years from imprisoning people, enslaving them and engendering fear among the general populace to simply one of extermination. And that was carried out in so many ways. Mauthausen was considered a Level 3 Camp where the guiding principle was that no one left &#8211; everyone was to be killed in some way or other. The SS excelled at very efficient methods of mutilation and annihilation.</p>
<p>The roots of genocide, according to our guide, were fostered in anti-Semitism, an us vs. them mentality, a de-humanization of others who are seen as &#8220;less.&#8221; It was hard not to draw some parallels to today&#8217;s world…</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24559" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/stairsofDeath.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="816" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/stairsofDeath.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/stairsofDeath-235x300.jpg 235w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/stairsofDeath-600x765.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>The &#8220;Stairs of Death&#8221; at the Mauthausen concentration camp.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>Other cases involved prisoners forced outside during winter over whom cold water was poured &#8211; a particularly appealing entertainment for the SS guards who delighted in &#8220;showering&#8221; people to death &#8211; outside the actual gas chamber showers, that is…. Because any SS who shot an inmate trying to escape got extra days off, a favorite party trick was to entice prisoners into situations where they might appear to be escaping &#8211; and then shoot them. Stomach cringing continues.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24553" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Ebensee.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="471" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Ebensee.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Ebensee-300x221.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Ebensee-600x442.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Starved prisoners pose in concentration camp in Ebensee, a sub-camp of Mauthausen, used for &#8220;scientific&#8221; experiments.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>Others, sick and beaten, simply died during daily roll call, a grueling process of standing in the heat or cold for 4-5 hours at a time, and being forced to do exercises when most of them could no longer stand. It is hard to hear all of this &#8211; and my stomach clenched and my eyes teared and I was overcome by a sense of helplessness and disbelief that these things actually happened &#8211; and no one cared.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24554" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Himmler.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="409" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Himmler.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Himmler-300x192.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Himmler-600x383.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Reichsführer Heinrich Himmler of the SS at Mauthausen. Hitler authorized Himmler to create a centralized concentration camp system.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>In the barracks hundreds were housed in such horrendous conditions the term unsanitary does not begin to describe the degradation. On the wall is a quote depicting the &#8220;wheezing, hissing, moaning, sobbing, snoring&#8221; that filled the night-time air in 20 languages. &#8220;The noise fused into a single, terrible sound produced as if by a giant monstrous being that had holed up in the dark.&#8221; Another quote: &#8220;Anyone who hadn&#8217;t been brutal when they entered the world became brutal here.&#8221; More gut-wrenching stomach-churning.</p>
<p>And then we went through the gas chambers where thousands were killed and then the ovens where their remains were buried, with a side visit to the infirmary where unspeakable &#8220;experiments&#8221; were carried out.</p>
<p>And yet the neighbors and surrounding community ostensibly didn&#8217;t know what was happening, despite being within earshot of the thousands of prisoners suffering and screaming. In fact, some complained about the noise &#8211; but not about why it was occurring. The grandmother of our guide, who was seven at the time, said she could smell the stench of the burning bodies; she knew something bad was happening but nobody talked about it.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24560" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/survivors.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="451" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/survivors.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/survivors-300x211.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/survivors-104x74.jpg 104w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/survivors-600x423.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Survivors greeting US soldiers at Mauthausen.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>Of the 200,000 prisoners who occupied Mauthausen from 1938-1945, about half were killed. There were only 20,000 survivors when liberation finally came on May 5, 1945, with another 80,000 already too ill to benefit from the end of the war. Not surprisingly, the liberators were shocked at the condition of the prisoners. I imagine so too were the community members when they were finally exposed to what was really happening in their backyard. At this point, my stomach was in perpetual decompression mode.<br />There were signs on walls from visitors in multiple languages: RIP, Never Again, and You won&#8217;t be forgotten. A simple drawing of an eye with a tear coming down was the one I most related to.</p>
<p>Most of the guards went home after the war suffering no consequences and little was said about what they had done. No one talked about it. According to our guide, it took Austria four decades to acknowledge its part in the Holocaust.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24561" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/ThoughtArea.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="422" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/ThoughtArea.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/ThoughtArea-300x198.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/ThoughtArea-600x396.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>The Mauthausen Thought Area of today.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>There were multiple school groups of teenagers at the camp and I felt thankful they were learning of the atrocities they otherwise would probably have no knowledge of. I wished I could understand what they were saying about their experience. History will now change as there soon will be no survivors, no one to say this is what actually happened, and the Holocaust will be relegated to the status of other historical occurrences which the young will learn about in school but will not relate to. Who really cares about the Crusades? There will be no visceral understanding. It will have nothing to do with them. There will be nothing to keep it from happening again. I only wish I could call my mother and tell her once again, that now I REALLY understand.</p>
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<h4><a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/author/stephen_b/">Stephen Brewer</a> &#8211; T-Boy writer:</h4>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;">On the Lasithi Plateau</span></h2>
<p>I saw Bartholomew for the first time when I was traveling around Crete twenty years ago. He was standing placidly, shyly almost, a fine long neck slightly bent beneath a mop of thick shiny black hair, sturdy legs planted firmly in the grass of a meadow on the Lasithi Plateau.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24557" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-02.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="733" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-02.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-02-300x220.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-02-768x563.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-02-850x623.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-02-600x440.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>Lasithi Plateau in Crete.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photography by Stephen Brewer.</span></p>
<p>No, this was not a starry-eyed meeting with an Adonis. Bartholomew is a donkey. I have no idea what his real name is. The only other donkey I have ever known was Bartholomew, so that is what I call this one, too. I&#8217;ve been back to the Lasithi Plateau at least a dozen times since I met the Greek Bartholomew, who&#8217;s usually grazing outside a modest white house at the edge of Tzermiado, a village of just a few streets. I&#8217;ve encountered him plodding along the lanes that lace the fields, with bundles of earth-covered vegetables hanging from either side of his back. The cargo looks light and the weathered, bearded man leading him never seems to be in no hurry to get anywhere. I&#8217;ve also passed Bartholomew on the road that skirts the edge of the plateau. He&#8217;s been pulling a little cart driven by an ancient-looking woman dressed in black, a shawl around her shoulders despite the heat, and a kerchief concealing her hair. Bartholomew has been sauntering lazily and it&#8217;s always looked to me as if his companion has nodded off to sleep.</p>
<figure id="attachment_24551" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-24551" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-24551" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/CreteDonkey-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/CreteDonkey-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/CreteDonkey.jpg 500w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-24551" class="wp-caption-text"><em>A Crete donkey named Bartholomew.</em><span style="font-size: x-small;">(wikimedia.org)</span></figcaption></figure>
<p>Bartholomew is a noisy animal, and I&#8217;ve become accustomed to listening for his hee-haws when I walk on the paths that skirt his pasture. If motorbikes aren&#8217;t idling in the broad intersection that passes as the village square, I can sometimes hear him when I&#8217;m sitting in the Cafe Kronio late in the evening. The homemade raki is usually taking effect by this time, and I can almost mistake Greek Bartholomew for the Bartholomew of my youth.</p>
<p>The first Bartholomew belonged to Franny, an artist friend of my mother&#8217;s who lived on a rose and holly farm her Dutch stepfather established back in the 1920s. Franny liked to throw parties on summer holidays. My parents and their friends would drink cocktails on the trim little lawn in front of Franny&#8217;s house as Bartholomew snorted from the other side of a hedge and my brother, sister, and I and any other children who were around ran through the fields and explored the two huge barns. Occasionally my father and a few of the other men would hitch Bartholomew up to a cart. They were unlikely farm hands in their white shirts and dress slacks, and I doubt they had any idea of what they were doing. They managed, though, probably because Bartholomew was docile and patient. We youngsters would clamor aboard and Bartholomew would pull us up and down the long gravel drive that led from the house and barns to the road.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24550" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/cafe-kromio-photo-1.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="688" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/cafe-kromio-photo-1.jpg 1200w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/cafe-kromio-photo-1-300x172.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/cafe-kromio-photo-1-1024x587.jpg 1024w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/cafe-kromio-photo-1-768x440.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/cafe-kromio-photo-1-850x487.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/cafe-kromio-photo-1-384x220.jpg 384w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/cafe-kromio-photo-1-600x344.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><br /><em>Taverna Cafe Kronio, Tzemadio, Crete.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photograph courtesy of Christine Kargiotakis</span></p>
<p>One evening Vassilis, who runs the Kronio with his French wife, Christina, handed me a napkin on which he&#8217;d sketched a map. &#8220;Tomorrow you should make this walk,&#8221; he said. &#8220;I can&#8217;t go with you, but you should be fine.&#8221; He poured me some more raki and rummaged in a bookshelf to retrieve a reprint of a scholarly article about Karfi, a Minoan settlement in the Ditka mountains high above the village.</p>
<p>&#8220;It all uphill. Am I fit enough for a hike like this?&#8221; I asked Vassilis, who is a skilled mountaineer. &#8220;Probably. You are not as fat and lazy as many men your age.&#8221; I assumed he was implying American men. Over the years he and Christina have told me stories of Americans who have come into the Kronio, usually involving their size and peculiar culinary habits. An exceedingly large American woman on one of the bus tours that brings tourists up from the big resorts on the north coast made an impression when she asked Vassilis to top her baklava with ice cream. &#8220;Of course I told her &#8216;no.&#8217; One does not eat ice cream with baklava,&#8221; he reported, shuddering theatrically with indignation. &#8220;Incroyable,&#8221; Christina added from the desk where she does the accounts.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24564" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tzermiado-pavedRaods.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="666" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tzermiado-pavedRaods.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tzermiado-pavedRaods-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tzermiado-pavedRaods-768x511.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tzermiado-pavedRaods-850x566.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tzermiado-pavedRaods-600x400.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>A historic paved road on the edge of Tzermiado in the Lasithi Plateau.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons</span></p>
<p>The next morning I walked past Bartholomew&#8217;s pasture so he could bray at me and soon I was picking my way up a steep, stone-strewn path that climbs a shoulder of the mountains. The mind wanders when you&#8217;re struggling up a hot hillside, and I thought again of the first Bartholomew. One of my early memories was being thrilled to see his picture on the front page of the newspaper when Franny lent him to the Adlai Stevenson presidential campaign for a photo-op during a whistle stop. I don&#8217;t know what became of Bartholomew. Franny sold the farm when I was still in grade school, and I remember being embarrassed because I burst into tears as my dad and I drove around the cul-de-sacs of split-level houses in Holly Hills, the subdivision that replaced the familiar fields.</p>
<figure id="attachment_24555" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-24555" style="width: 500px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24555" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Karfi.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Karfi.jpg 500w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Karfi-300x200.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-24555" class="wp-caption-text">Karfi today, once a 3,000 year ago sanctuary for the last of the Minoans.<br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons</span></figcaption></figure>
<p>I was now high enough to see the plateau spread out below me, a tidy patchwork of fields, comfortable and welcoming, enclosed within an unbroken circle of mountain peaks that keep the outside world at bay. White sails of windmills that pump water through irrigation channels moved with the wind. After leveling off a bit the path rose again to the crest of a rise. Just across a gully was a jumble of rocks that are the remains of Karfi, cradled in a fold of barren terrain and indistinguishable from the gray landscape. Far below, the Sea of Crete appeared as a bright blue expanse on the horizon.</p>
<p>Karfi was a sanctuary for the last of the Minoans, who took refuge in these heights about 3,000 years ago, and the civilization that built vast palaces and painted fanciful frescoes of dancing ladies died out on these barren slopes. I could make out faint traces of their single-story houses and gridlike streets, and I could almost see the phantoms of Minoans among the rocks. It was easy to imagine the mountainside humming with the chatter of human souls who no doubt laughed, told stories, shared meals, fought and made peace with one another. Residents out for an evening stroll must have scrambled up to the knoll where I was standing and gazed out to sea.</p>
<p>The return was on a longer route, across a high ridge then a gradual descent on a stone-littered track that herders use to goad goats up and down the mountainside. I&#8217;d been picking my way across the rocks for at least half an hour when I began to hear the tinkling of bells and bleats that grew louder as I neared a tall, wide tree. My thoughts of resting in the shade were dashed when I came close enough to see a large herd of goats crowded beneath the branches, sheltering from the sun.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24556" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-01.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="750" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-01.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-01-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-01-768x576.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-01-850x638.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lasithi-01-600x450.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>The stunning landscape of the Lasithi Plateau.</em><span style="font-size: x-small;"><em> </em> Photograph by Stephen Brewer.</span></p>
<p>A little farther along the scrub gave way to dense, unkempt olive groves. I heard him before I saw him, a loud hee-haw from the overgrowth. Then Bartholomew appeared, grazing in grass almost as tall as him. I noticed he was saddled, and the bearded man I&#8217;d seen with him before was working a neatly plowed patch of earth tucked away among the trees. I sat down against a gnarly trunk, not far from Bartholomew, who raised his head to acknowledge my presence. There I soon dozed off, thinking about donkeys and those Minoan ghosts floating around on the mountainside above me.</p>
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<h4><a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/blast_from_the_past/#tamara">Tammy Skinner</a> &#8211; T-Boy writer:</h4>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;">Rediscovering my Heart and Soul</span></h2>
<p>Expectation burnout. Oh, it&#8217;s a thing my friends. A very real one. Which is why when I was asked to ponder the theme of Heart and Soul travel and what that means to me, I instantly knew where I had to go to rediscover my heart and soul which has most definitely been squeezed out of me like a tired dirty mop that has barely any drips of water hanging from its threads. Point blank. I was slightly&#8230; just a little teensy OKAY a whole lot depleted. I know I&#8217;m not the only one by any means. Who of all of us hasn&#8217;t found themselves stretched with oh too many expectations over the past year and counting? Whether it was the expectation of pulling internet connectivity out of thin air when in midst of a zoom call that goes dead or the 40th call from your kids&#8217; teacher that they were falling behind on their fractions and division… we were ALL in some way, shape or form in survival mode. And all of that on top of playing the game of KEEP AWAY with a deadly virus.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24574" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-one.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="750" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-one.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-one-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-one-768x576.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-one-850x638.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-one-600x450.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>For more than 80 years the Little River Inn has been welcoming guests to experience the beauty of the Mendocino Coast.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photograph courtesy of Tamara Skinner.</span></p>
<p>As my husband and I drove up the Mendonoma Coast after dropping off the kids at their grandparents at Sea Ranch, I could feel a little bit of an exhale coming on. Then we got to Mendocino and the azure blue ocean waters started to cry out my name. TAMMY it called…YOU&#8217;RE FREE LIKE THE SEA. Soon we caught glimpse of the spot we had picked for our refuge from incessant expectations &#8211; the Little River Inn which is an inviting 80-year-old hotel that has a restaurant (with a full bar) on site and hospitality like no other. It&#8217;s been in the family over five generations and the warmth of the owners trickles down to every single employee who seem intent on doing only one thing-to nurture you back to well-being.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24581" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Skinner-800px-Central_Californian_Coastline_Big_Sur_-_May_2013.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="652" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Skinner-800px-Central_Californian_Coastline_Big_Sur_-_May_2013.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Skinner-800px-Central_Californian_Coastline_Big_Sur_-_May_2013-300x196.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Skinner-800px-Central_Californian_Coastline_Big_Sur_-_May_2013-768x501.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Skinner-800px-Central_Californian_Coastline_Big_Sur_-_May_2013-850x554.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Skinner-800px-Central_Californian_Coastline_Big_Sur_-_May_2013-600x391.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>Central Californian coastline looking south, with the McWay Rocks in the foreground, and McWay Cove in the center.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photograph courtesy of Diliff.</span></p>
<p>We also specifically picked Little River Inn for its&#8217; special rooms that come with a hot tub on the deck along with a built-in special back rolling massager (I can&#8217;t even talk about this without rolling my eyes to the top of my head). Because of the covid craze, I hadn&#8217;t been comfortable getting a human massage so I couldn&#8217;t wait to get in the tub and get my machine massage. Oh boy! I don&#8217;t know how to describe the pure bliss of sitting in a hot tub overlooking the deepest blue majestic water, soaking in the negative ions and having my muscles pounded releasing the tension which felt like a thousand rocks settled into the river inside my body. As I sat in the tub longer and felt more and more of the rocks dissipate, slowly my own flow started coming through as I was able to hear my intuition again. It had been a while! I missed that trusty guide of mine that I used to be able to access so easily. Turns out over a year of incessant snack demands and frustration tantrum sighs coming from my &#8220;zoombies&#8221; from their &#8220;bedrooms/classrooms&#8221; had drowned out that melodic voice of guidance.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24582" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/skinner-1024px-Mendocino_California.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="750" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/skinner-1024px-Mendocino_California.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/skinner-1024px-Mendocino_California-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/skinner-1024px-Mendocino_California-768x576.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/skinner-1024px-Mendocino_California-850x638.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/skinner-1024px-Mendocino_California-600x450.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>Mendocino, California.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photograph courtesy of Jef Poskanzer.</span></p>
<p>Mother&#8217;s Day upon us, newly restored and with exploration vibes drawing us out of our heavenly room, my hubby and I got in the car and drove to the picturesque Mendocino village to see what my heart had in store for me there &#8211; revelation wise. Found in the backdrop of many films due to it being established in the 1850s and filled with New England styled Victorian homes (which have been restored into shops, inns and restaurants), we lazily strolled up and down the streets of this peninsula/bluffs surrounded land and wandered into the shops that called to us.</p>
<p>There was one in particular that summoned me in by its décor alone. I seemingly floated into Loot &amp; Lore and found myself instantly surrounded by my favorite things-jewelry, tarot decks and books. I glanced at a beautiful Saints and Mystics deck that begged me to pick a card and picked a message from St. Paul who (according to this deck) was the Patron Saint of writers and spiritual searchers! The synchronicity was not ignored by me who had just told my husband that I&#8217;d like to get an intentional sign of a way to release my writer&#8217;s block. Finding two intriguing little zines (one on making vision boards and the other entitled GETTING OVER IT: Move on from the Bullshit That is Holding you Back) I decided to buy them along with a pen that had a quartz attached to the end of it with &#8220;Be the Light&#8221; etched on the side of it. At check out, I befriended the lovely store owner, Cynthia, working the register who told me this pen would cure my writer&#8217;s block. Yes please! And thank you! Enchanted by the flow and feeling of effortlessness languishing type roaming my soul told me I was healed.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24570" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-two.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="1333" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-two.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-two-225x300.jpg 225w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-two-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-two-850x1133.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Tammy-two-600x800.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>Animals on display at the Little River Inn.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;"> Photography courtesy of Tamara Skinner.</span></p>
<p>I have often pondered on the fact that like machines we as Americans specifically are programmed to produce. Produce results. Produce good grades. Produce promotions. Produce babies. Produce retirement funds. But what if all of that is just one really really long inhale? What if the answer involves us also concentrating just as much on the exhale? For our waves to recede back in the waters after thy maniacally crash onto the shore? What if we just want to talk? To laugh? To have fun? Be known and understood? Feel the sun on our bare legs, drink champagne, embrace for too long? Mendocino healed me and it didn’t take much. Okay maybe it did. Ocean view+hot tub+negative ions from the waves crashing+genuinely caring employees concerned with my needs+magical stores offering guidance and hope. Most important, this stunning coastal wonder found me in the silence and without interruptions long enough to sneak its guidance in, and voila just like that I find myself back on California’s Highway 1 heading south to pick up our children, eager to practice this new mantra of “producing” less while “allowing” more.</p>
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<h4>Weave Cleveland &#8211; Travel Guys cinematographer:</h4>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;">Super Cool York</span></h2>
<p>It&#8217;s surely timing and serendipity that set any particular place in our reverie forever. For me I will forever say that York, England is the most fascinating and enchanting place I have ever visited. You can instantly get lost in history at the walled city of York, and I mean instantly!</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24583" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/YorkCityWalls.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="744" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/YorkCityWalls.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/YorkCityWalls-300x223.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/YorkCityWalls-768x571.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/YorkCityWalls-850x632.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/YorkCityWalls-600x446.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>York&#8217;s city walls (circa 1890 and 1900)</em>. <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>You can stand in one spot and see Medieval, Gothic, Roman, and Edwardian architecture each direction your eyes are drawn&#8230; and more. Not the oldest part of town but the most compelling part is &#8216;the Shambles.&#8217; Named so for the meat shelves and hooks where butchers and sellers displayed their meats for sale. Those were days long ago. Nowadays it is the &#8216;must see&#8217; area of the city. It looks like a movie set. You can even spot Turkish architecture mixing in with the Tudor stylings. These narrow, tangled cobblestone streets also have something unique which I have never seen or heard of before &#8211; Snickleways. A Snickleway is a narrow tunnel-like passage to get you over to another street without having to walk around the block. An &#8216;enchanting&#8217; short cut. I think there&#8217;s five of them.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24580" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/shamblesShopper.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="427" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/shamblesShopper.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/shamblesShopper-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/shamblesShopper-600x400.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Five Snickelways lead off the Shambles in York.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>York has some serious Viking history and I learned something there that now makes sense even in my own city. The Viking word for road is gata. In English, gata gets translated to gate. So, even though I have spent my life imagining a garden gate or front yard gate, etcetera, in this case it actually means road. Bathgate, Helmsgate, Fossgate, Coppergate, Newgate, etcetera. I think that&#8217;s cool.</p>
<p>Another fascinating fact was how much time the Romans spent there and all the work they did. Constantine the Great was in York when he became a Roman emperor in 306 A.D. and started his rule from there. He was pretty great, he had a city named for himself &#8211; Constantinople (now Istanbul). The magnificent York Minster Cathedral has underground excavation of Roman ruins going on right now since workers in the 1960&#8217;s discovered them when trying to shore up the foundation of the Minster.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24585" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Constantine_York.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="664" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Constantine_York.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Constantine_York-300x199.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Constantine_York-768x510.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Constantine_York-850x564.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Constantine_York-600x398.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>Bronze statue of Constantine the Great outside York Minster, looking down upon his broken sword, which forms the shape of a cross.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>Now, here&#8217;s something really special, especially because I am Canadian and have grown up with these: KitKat, Rolo, Aero, Smarties, York Peppermint Patty&#8230; and the list goes on &#8211; they all came from York. Terry&#8217;s and The Rowntree Family and a few others all started in York. In fact. Mr. Rowntree even helped MacIntosh financially to keep his toffee business going. MacIntosh is still on store shelves today. Not to be confused with the MacIntosh raincoat maker or the Glaswegian designer/architect. The giant firm Nestlé may own them now but these candy bars all came from York.</p>
<p>If you visit York you can see the National Railroad Museum or the birthplace of Guy Faux or visit an old English pub smaller than your current bedroom and even learn all about the horse thief and notorious criminal Dick Turpin&#8230; but most of all it will be tangling your way through town that will steal your heart. What a super cool place York is.</p>
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<h4><a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/author/brom/">Brom Wikstrom</a> &#8211; T-Boy writer and mouth painter:</h4>
<h4><em>The real voyage of discovery consists, not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.</em> &#8211; <span style="color: #ff0000;">Proust</span></h4>
<p>It was a revelation to me when visitors to our Seattle home would marvel at our views of Mt. Rainier, the Olympic Mountain Range and Puget Sound. Likewise, guests from other parts of the country would delight in the majesty of towering cedar trees or the red flash of a robin&#8217;s breast. These are common sights to us and register appreciation but not the awe-inspiring experience that we have witnessed in others.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24590" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Mount_Rainier_7431.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="480" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Mount_Rainier_7431.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Mount_Rainier_7431-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Mount_Rainier_7431-600x450.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>View of Mount Rainier National Park from Dege Peak Spur Trail.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>The abundant natural beauty along our shorelines, in our national forests and even the arid portions on the eastern side of Washington State have always moved my spirit in ways that are renewing and I&#8217;ve always considered myself fortunate to live in the Pacific Northwest for that reason.</p>
<p>With that in mind, my wife and I began taking winter trips to be with family in St. Petersburg, Florida several years ago and were equally inspired by what to us is exotic wildlife and natural beauty. Because of my wheelchair, I am always in search of accessible trails, promenades and boardwalks where I can engage with nature and Florida offers many such opportunities. We stayed near two local parks that became regular destinations and offered wheelchair accessible trails that highlighted nature and native history in unique settings.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24591" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Weedon_Island_preserve.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="425" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Weedon_Island_preserve.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Weedon_Island_preserve-300x199.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Weedon_Island_preserve-600x398.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Weedon Island Preserve.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>Sawgrass Lake Park and Weedon Island Park have miles of accessible boardwalks and trails and kayaking options and are treasures of natural wonder. I have enjoyed many peaceful hours in rapt wonder watching the diverse wildlife that call them home. Alligators ply the placid waterways along with turtles, lizards egrets, herons, and pelicans and though these are relatively common sights for residents, I am continuously amazed at the diversity and abundance present at these and other public parks in St. Petersburg.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24579" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Salvador_Dali_Museum.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="427" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Salvador_Dali_Museum.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Salvador_Dali_Museum-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Salvador_Dali_Museum-600x400.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Salvador Dalí Museum at St. Petersburg, Florida.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>St. Petersburg is equally renowned for its beautiful beaches and the iconic Salvador Dali Museum along with the newly reopened pier and those are surprising, beautiful and culturally dynamic, but give me a few tranquil hours among mangrove swamps and leaping mullets and my heart will sing.</p>
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<p><a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/meet-james-thomas-boitano/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">James Boitano</a> &#8211; T-Boy writer:</p>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;">Slovenia</span></h2>
<p>As a geography buff, I&#8217;d always wanted to go to Slovenia. Its relative obscurity made vis-à-vis its better-known and more war-torn former constituent republics of the former Yugoslavia made it all the more appealing. I like obscure even more than well known Why go to France when you can go to Luxembourg or better yet, Andorra? And what was this little country of 2 million people like there tucked at the crossroads of the Germanic, Italic and Slavic worlds? I just had to wait for my chance.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24589" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Ljubljana_Slovenia.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="363" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Ljubljana_Slovenia.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Ljubljana_Slovenia-300x170.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Ljubljana_Slovenia-600x340.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Slovenia&#8217;s capital city of Ljubljana.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>So, in 2002 while attending the Eurovision music event in Riga Latvia, I met Samo. He was a rumpled, brilliant, and kind high school teacher, a fellow Eurovision fan, and the first Slovenian I&#8217;d ever met. We so hit it off as friends, spending hours until late at night, engrossed in conversation at the hotel bar after the events and day&#8217;s rehearsals. We met again at Eurovision in 2005 in Kiev and again at Eurovision in 2007 in Helsinki. And each time, he invited me to stay at his home in Slovenia&#8217;s little capital city of Ljubljana. I finally took him up on his offer in 2011 for a 10-day visit. And you know what? I returned for another 10-day visit in 2012, And another in 2014 and my 4th x 10-day visit in 2017 (Covid prevented my last trip in 2020). Needless to say, Slovenia won my heart. During my 40 days of visits, Samo showed me every corner of the small country: from the mighty Alpine valleys to the Venetian Adriatic Coast, the rolling hills of the wine region, the little villages of the Pannonian Plain. For a small country, you can reach any region within 2 hours of Ljubljana. But most of all I met Samos friends and family.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24588" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lake_Bled_Slovenia.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="427" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lake_Bled_Slovenia.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lake_Bled_Slovenia-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lake_Bled_Slovenia-600x400.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Lake Bled, Slovenia.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>Every night we would sit at a café and a crowd of a dozen would join us. The bar we went to was one owned by the father of the most famous Slovene, the father of Melanija Trump and they ironically called it the &#8216;First Lady Café&#8217;. I felt like so accepted by the people, the opposite of a tourist. Small countries so appreciate the attention, they are so often overlooked. And in small country, even a high school teacher is bound to know many people.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24578" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Praprece_Slovenia.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Praprece_Slovenia.jpg 500w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Praprece_Slovenia-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /><br /><em>A traditional double straight-line hayrack in Slovenia.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>During my visits I was a guest on Slovenian National Radio (during the coveted 1:00 am to 2:00 am spot!). Samo just knew the guy there and when he heard there was captive foreigner, I was invited. And during my 4 visits I attended several birthday parties held by his relatives and a wedding, at each being made to feel like a guest of honor. One day, I got to go on rounds with his friend who picked up produce at local farms and delivered them to grocery stores. We spent all day and crossed half the country. Imagine doing that as a &#8216;tourist&#8217;? And so, after all this, Slovenia has a big place in my heart…and I will return as soon as this post-Covid world allows.</p>
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<h4><a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/author/ed/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ed Boitano</a> &#8211; T-Boy editor:</h4>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;">Ireland&#8217;s Romantic West Coast</span></h2>
<p>My wife and I woke up to the smell of rich morning coffee. It was to be part of our breakfast on our first day in Ireland&#8217;s wild west coast. It has been said that all Irish homes become a bed and breakfast during the summer, and this Donegal County cottage with one spare room was no exception.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24587" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Full_irish_breakfast.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="426" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Full_irish_breakfast.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Full_irish_breakfast-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Full_irish_breakfast-600x399.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Full Irish breakfast.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>The owners fussed over us at the table as we enjoyed a full Irish Breakfast: eggs, bacon, sausages, black and white pudding, fried potatoes and homemade rolls with marmalade. They told us of the area&#8217;s attractions and educated us on the Irish Potato Famine, that began in 1845 and lasted for six years, killing over a million men, women and children and caused another million to flee the country. The owner explained, the Irish in the countryside began to live off wild blackberries, nettles, turnips, old cabbage leaves, seaweed, roadside weeds and, towards the end of the Famine, green grass. The owner added you could always identify a Famine victim by the green grass stains around their mouth. He suggested that we read his favorite book about the Famine, <em>The Silent People </em>by Walter Macken.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24577" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Poulnabrone_Dolmen.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="864" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Poulnabrone_Dolmen.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Poulnabrone_Dolmen-300x259.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Poulnabrone_Dolmen-768x664.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Poulnabrone_Dolmen-850x734.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Poulnabrone_Dolmen-600x518.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>To this day no one knows who these people were and how they were able to move such mammoth rocks. </em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo courtesy of Nicolas Raymond &amp; Brin Kennedy Weins, Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>We followed his instructions and found a Famine Pot in the middle of a forest, where some locals placed food for the displaced victims. It felt like we were walking through history.</p>
<p>We had already anticipated a trip to Slieve League Cliffs on the far west coast of Donegal, and were not disappointed once we arrived. Towering over 2,000 feet from the Atlantic Ocean, it is one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe. Its visual splendor gets my vote for the most striking site in Ireland.</p>
<p>We headed down the road to County Sligo for a pilgrimage to the gravesite of our favorite poet, W.B. Yeats (1865-1939), and soon found ourselves stuck in the car, avoiding a heavy downpour. We didn&#8217;t mind, we read Yeats and listened to an Altan CD, our favorite traditional Donegal music group, while basking in awe at the stunning green countryside. We read where the lyrical name &#8220;Emerald Isle&#8221; arrived from William Dennan, an Irish physician, poet and liberal political radical, in his poem <em>When Erin First Rose</em> in 1795.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24584" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carrowmore_Passage_Tomb.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="327" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carrowmore_Passage_Tomb.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carrowmore_Passage_Tomb-300x153.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Carrowmore_Passage_Tomb-600x307.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>Once the weather cleared, we stumbled upon Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery, the largest burial site of Megalithic tombs in Ireland, built around 4600-3900 B.C. To this day no one knows who these people were and how they were able to move such mammoth rocks. We both could feel the power of the setting and something came over us; before we knew it, we were renewing our wedding vows. After a Sunday pub meal of  Irish fjord lamb, potatoes and Guinness we found another B&amp;B, where (once again) we were the only guests. We wanted to take the owner home with us, and to this day remain in contact. From her window we could see cattle swimming across a river.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24586" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Famine_Memorial_Doo_Lough_County_Mayo._Ireland.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="427" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Famine_Memorial_Doo_Lough_County_Mayo._Ireland.jpg 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Famine_Memorial_Doo_Lough_County_Mayo._Ireland-300x200.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Famine_Memorial_Doo_Lough_County_Mayo._Ireland-600x400.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>The striking &#8216;terrible&#8217; beauty of the Connemara.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo courtesy of Chris Hood, via Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>The next day, it was a drive through the sweeping Connemara in County Galway, a stunning landscape where author Charles Dicken once described as a place of &#8220;terrible beauty.&#8221; We pulled off the road to study a Famine Trail named for the Doolough Tragedy of 1849. Scores of destitute and starving people staggered through horrendous weather for 15 miles to a manor&#8217;s house in the hope of food, only to be turned away. Apparently, the owner was too busy having lunch to be bothered. Later, corpses were found by the side of the road with grass in their mouth, while others desperately crawled to a local church where they could die on consecrated ground.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-892" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ireland-Famine_Walk.jpg" alt="commemorating the Doolough Famine Walk of 1849 in County Mayo" width="850" height="638" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ireland-Famine_Walk.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ireland-Famine_Walk-600x450.jpg 600w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ireland-Famine_Walk-300x225.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ireland-Famine_Walk-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px" /><br /><em>The annual Doolough Famine Walk.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;"> Photo courtesy Tourism Ireland.</span></p>
<p>Once a year a famine walk takes place on the trail to commemorate the victims. As we departed down the road, we both commented that we had not seen a single car for over half an hour. A second later there was a rumbling on the road. We had a flat, not unusual on these rock-strewn Irish roads, but faced with having to unpack our little rental&#8217;s cram packed trunk just to find the spare tire was a daunting thought. Before we knew it, two cars, each arriving from the opposite direction, appeared out of nowhere. The drivers both hopped out and quickly changed our tire. They barely stuck around for a handshake. Such is the hospitality of the Irish.</p>
<p>It was pitch black when we arrived at our next bed and breakfast accommodations, and laughed in wonder on how the owners managed to get the bed into our little room. But where were we? In the morning, with the blazing sun illuminating this piece of paradise, we realized our B&amp;B was nestled on the banks of a breathtaking fjord. We were in the town of Liane, where the film, The <em>Field</em> was made. In one of the local pubs a huge painting of the film&#8217;s star, Richard Harris, hangs above the fireplace. On our dinner plates was lobster caught that very day in the fjord. A tablemate explained to us that in pre-EU Ireland there were no taxes on food, books and children&#8217;s clothing. Upon hearing this, my wife literally held back tears.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24576" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Musiciens_pub.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="669" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Musiciens_pub.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Musiciens_pub-300x201.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Musiciens_pub-768x514.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Musiciens_pub-850x569.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Musiciens_pub-600x401.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><br /><em>A traditional music session at the Gus O&#8217;Connor Pub in Doolin.</em><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo courtesy of Chris Hood, via Wikimedia Commons.</span></p>
<p>Eventually we made it down to the musical town of Doolin, a coastal fishing village in County Clare on the Atlantic coast. Coined the traditional music capital of Ireland, this was an adult Disneyland for us where a number of pubs specialized in Irish session music each night. We joined in with locals and like-minded tourists, had big pub meals of more lamb and potatoes, bacon (think ham) and cabbage, then nursed pints of Guinness as we listened to reels, jigs and haunting ballads, many about the Famine and emigration.</p>
<p>Our daytimes were spent on trips to the Aran Islands, a landscape once so cruel and unforgiving that it consisted solely of solid limestone rock, where rugged locals actually had to produce their own soil, made of seaweed and smashed rocks to grow potatoes, their only source of subsidence; then the windy, yet curiously tranquil Cliffs of Moher, standing 702 feet with a stretch of five miles, featuring panoramic views of the Atlantic as far as the eye can see; a massive Dolomite burial site located on a livestock farm (its only explanation, a note from the farmer, &#8220;Mind the Gate&#8221;); exploring additional archaeological wonders in the Burren as well as its castles, some now converted to private residences. We carry the memories with us wherever we go. Yes, Erin Go Bragh!</p>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>Postscript: </strong></span></h2>
<p><strong>The Hand of Human Kindness: The Irish and American Indian Tribal Nations</strong></p>
<p>In 1847, the Choctaw People in the U.S. collected $170 <strong>– </strong>the equivalent of several thousand dollars today <strong>– </strong>to send to the people in Ireland who were starving during the Potato Famine. The senseless deaths and struggles  experienced by the Irish was familiar to the tribal nation: Just 16 years earlier the Choctaw had embarked on the forced 5,043 mile-long <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/trail-of-tears-cherokee-nation/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Trail Of Tears</a>, due to tyrant and American President Andrew Jackson&#8217;s illegal Indian Relocation Act. Thousands of their own succumbed to death from starvation, disease and freezing temperatures. Though the Choctaw People had meager resources, they gave on behalf of others in greater need.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24729" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Choctaw_group.png" alt="" width="640" height="505" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Choctaw_group.png 640w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Choctaw_group-300x237.png 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Choctaw_group-600x473.png 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><br /><em>A dignified Choctaw family.</em> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photographer unknown. Wikimedia Commons</span></p>
<p>The Irish have long felt a debt of gratitude to American Indians. When current news broke that the Navajo and Hopi tribes were being ravaged by the coronavirus, Irish journalist Naomi O’Leary tweeted that now would be a good time to return the favor. That tweet went viral, and soon donations were pouring in from the Irish people, along with messages of gratitude and support.</p>
<p>In 2017, the Choctaw Native American Monument was erected in Midleton, Ireland, to honor the American Indian tribe that aided the Irish during the Great Potato Famine in 1847.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-24734" src="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/ChoctawMonument.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="910" srcset="https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/ChoctawMonument.jpg 1000w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/ChoctawMonument-300x273.jpg 300w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/ChoctawMonument-768x699.jpg 768w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/ChoctawMonument-850x774.jpg 850w, https://travelingboy.com/travel/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/ChoctawMonument-600x546.jpg 600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></p>
<p><em>Kindred Spirits sculpture in Ireland, dedicated to the Choctaw Nation for their aid during the Great Irish Famine.</em><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Credit: Photograph courtesy of ChoctawNation.com.</span></p><p>The post <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel/places-in-the-heart/">Places in the Heart</a> appeared first on <a href="https://travelingboy.com/travel">Traveling Archive</a>.</p>
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