Inspired by the centuries-old Chinese tradition of private gardens, Liu Fang Yuan is filled with Chinese plants and framed by exquisite architecture. The landscape is enriched with references to literature and art. Visitors can find both physical relaxation and mental stimulation when exploring the dramatic 15-acre garden.

Liu Fang Yuan is a tribute to the gardens of Suzhou, a city located near Shanghai in southeastern China. During the Ming dynasty (1368–1644), wealthy scholars and merchants there built tasteful private gardens combining architecture, waterworks, rockeries, plants, and calligraphy. Many of the features in Liu Fang Yuan are modeled on specific Suzhou gardens, eight of which are depicted in the woodcarvings in the Love for the Lotus Pavilion.

Upon entering the gardens the first thing that struck me was all the peaceful ponds and bridges surrounded by meandering walking paths, hundreds of plants and trees and stunning architecture. One of the highlights is the Stargazing Tower, a hillside pavilion situated on the highest point in the garden. Boasting memorable views of the water, pavilions, treetops, mountains, and skies, the tower pays homage to nearby Mt. Wilson Observatory, which is visible from the tower, and to the work of astronomer Edwin Hubble, a neighbor of library founder Henry Huntington. Hubble’s papers are part of the Library’s holdings in the history of science.

Rocks are also an important part of the Suzhou gardens. The stones found throughout Liu Fang Yuan are a type of limestone traditionally harvested from the bed of Lake Tai near Suzhou. The rocks for the Huntington’s exhibits were quarried in various regions of China. For more than 1,200 years, these rocks have been renowned for their strange shapes and many holes. Particularly prized individual specimens, like the towering stone near the teahouse, “Patching Up the Sky,” were seen as embodying energy-like ethers, or “qi.”

Like all Suzhou-style gardens, Liu Fang Yuan has written text on the structures. Every pavilion and courtyard bears a name in Chinese characters. And the entrances to some buildings are also adorned with poetic couplets. These calligraphic inscriptions were written by more than 30 contemporary artists from mainland China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, the United States, and the United Kingdom. The names and couplets that they have inscribed are drawn from classic works of Chinese literature.

Like the text, the construction of the gardens was also a masterful collaboration. Construction of the garden was an international partnership between Chinese and American architects, contractors, and craftsmen who worked together to ensure the gardens are authentic to Chinese traditions of architecture and landscape design, while meeting state and federal regulations for seismic safety and accessibility.

Los Angeles architect Jim Fry developed the detailed construction plans for the expansion, based on the conceptual designs of the Suzhou Institute of Landscape Architecture Design in China. To keep things as authentic as possible, Chinese artisans from the Suzhou Garden Development Co., Ltd. worked on site for several months to complete important details by hand. These craftsmen specialize is skills such as wood carving, roof tiling, and stone masonry.

The 16-acre Chinese Gardens are just one part of the Huntington’s massive outdoor displays. In all, the preserve covers more than 200 acres, of which 120 acres are gardens. In 1903 Henry E. Huntington (1850–1927) purchased the San Marino Ranch, a working ranch about 12 miles from downtown Los Angeles with citrus groves, nut and fruit orchards, alfalfa crops, a small herd of cows, and poultry.

Huntington’s superintendent, William Hertrich (1878–1966), was instrumental in developing the various plant collections that comprise the foundation of The Huntington’s botanical gardens. The property — originally nearly 600 acres — today covers 207 acres, 120 of which are open to visitors and include some 15,000 different varieties of plants.

Other themed gardens at the library include tributes to Australia, Japan, California, children, camellias, the desert, herbs, the jungle, lily ponds, roses, the subtropics, sculptures & fountains, and a mausoleum.

The Huntington is currently beginning a phased reopening; the gardens are now open, while galleries remain closed. All visitors, including Members must reserve tickets online in advance. The Library is located at 1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino, CA 91108. For hours and admission, call 626-405-2100 or visit The Huntington Library, Art Museum, and Botanical Gardens website.

The post The Incredible Chinese Gardens at Huntington Library appeared first on Traveling Archive.

The two volumes (sold separately for $24.95 each) introduce you to the 110 best public gardens on the West Coast, from Vancouver, British Columbia, to San Diego. These landscapes are not only rich in marvelous plants and ornamental detail but they also say a lot about the people who created them. Lotusland near Santa Barbara is the legacy of Ganna Walska, a many times married Polish opera singer (and not a very good one, confides Olson) who described herself as “the enemy of the average” and sold off her jewels to pay for magnificent cycads that continue to flourish. The gardens at the Huntington Library, outside Los Angeles in San Marino, were among the passions of Henry E. Huntington, a railroad heir who became even wealthier when he married his aunt (yes, quite a scandal) and collected art, rare manuscripts, and the world’s largest collection of cacti and succulents. Portland’s Japanese Garden is the most authentic Japanese garden outside of Japan, and planted in the 1960s, is a testimony to the restoration of goodwill between World War II adversaries.

If one garden captures the spirit of the men and women who fashioned these magical landscapes and worked the soil to bring a little more beauty into the world, it’s probably Alcatraz. The famous prison in San Francisco Bay, erstwhile home of Al Capone and Bugsy Malone, is reminiscent of a Mediterranean isle. That’s because the warden’s secretary Fred Reichel and inmate Elliott Michener (a convicted counterfeiter) transformed the Rock into rose gardens and succulent plots — a testimony, says Olson, to the “human need to connect with nature and create beauty under even the harshest conditions.” You’ll feel this magic every time you follow any one of his excellent recommendations.

Filoli, Woodside, California
The name reflects the credo of founder William Bowers Bourn, “To fight for a just cause; to love your fellow man; to live a good life” (take the first two letters of “fight,” “love,” and “live”). Among these 16 acres of formal gardens south of San Francisco, surrounded by mountain and valley views, are lawns, outdoor rooms framed by brick walls and hedges, a sunken garden with a reflecting pool, and a Golden Age mansion.

The name reflects the credo of founder William Bowers Bourn, “To fight for a just cause; to love your fellow man; to live a good life” (take the first two letters of “fight,” “love,” and “live”). Among these 16 acres of formal gardens south of San Francisco, surrounded by mountain and valley views, are lawns, outdoor rooms framed by brick walls and hedges, a sunken garden with a reflecting pool, and a Golden Age mansion.

Virginia Robinson Gardens, Beverly Hills
The wife of a department store heir created the first estate in the now-famously posh enclave, planting lush gardens on what were once lima bean fields.  The dining room of her Italianate mansion overlooks a palm forest, inspired, like most of the plantings, by a honeymoon voyage through Europe, India, and Kashmir.

Lotusland, Santa Barbara
As Olson writes, “when it comes to garden as theater, garden as glamor, and garden as diva” this world-class garden stands alone. Among the highlights are giant aloes and cacti and one of the greatest cycad collections in the world.

Sunnylands, Palm Springs
With the bright yellow flowers of palo verde trees, green lawns, and a blue reflecting pool, these desert-oasis gardens are said to be an homage to Vincent Van Gogh’s “Olive Trees.” That’s no coincidence, because the painting once hung in the mid-century modern home at the center of this estate, the winter retreat of publishing mogul and diplomat Walter Annenberg.

Bloedel Reserve, Bainbridge Island, Washington State
What seems like a grand English estate is the Pacific Northwest home of a mid-20^th century timber baron, a ferry-ride across Puget Sound from Seattle. Native mosses and other plantings are woven into a forested maritime landscape.

Lan Su Chinese Garden, Portland, Oregon
The best and most authentic Chinese garden outside China replicates an urban style that flourished around 500 years ago during the Ming dynasty. Serpentine walkways surround a lake and lead to pavilions and halls.

The post A West Coast Garden Tour appeared first on Traveling Archive.

PART 1:  DAYS 1-2

Question:  How many trips should a travel writer take to Ireland?
Answer:  As many as you’re lucky enough to receive.  Just as though I carried around a four-leaf clover in my wallet, I was invited by Tourism Ireland to participate in my fourth press trip to the Emerald Isle, this time to explore Ireland’s Ancient East, an area that I had not covered before.

Flying to Ireland is now much easier as you fly directly to Dublin from LAX whereas before the gateway city was New York which meant flying out of JFK.  You had to disembark, retrieve your luggage, put it on a conveyer belt, and then catch the connecting flight. That route was stressful as there was always the possibility of missing your connection.  Now it’s as easy as drinking a glass of their famous Guinness. The Aer Lingus flight crew couldn’t be more cheerful, making the flight quite comfortable. The meeting place at Dublin Airport was in front of a large Yellow Sculpture in Terminal 2 Arrivals Hall.  Because of its imposing size, one simply could not miss the rendezvous point.  As is the Irish character, I was met by a smiling young man who whisked me away to the O’Callaghan Hotel, St. Stephens Green where I was able to get a good night’s sleep before the official start of the press trip the next day.

The theme of this trip was Great Houses, Castles and Gardens of Ireland’s Ancient East, which stretches from County Monaghan, to the east of County Cork, excluding Dublin. It is the land where Stone Age astronomers harnessed the sun, where saints lived and died, where Vikings built cities, and Norman knights defended their castles.  Lords and Ladies lived in opulent splendor, while hardship forced many to flee or die.  Over the next few days we would visit historic sites and learn about seminal moments in Irish history.

DAY 1:  Bright and early the next morning, journalists from around the world converged in the hotel lobby to begin our adventure.  The countries represented included, Austria, The Netherlands, Germany, India, Denmark, Gulf States, Belgium, and Spain. I wanted to avoid discussing the dismal state of American politics, but Trump was the focus of many discussions.  “How could someone like that be elected president of the United States and leader of the Free World?”  All I could say that I was as dismayed as they were and begged them not to judge Americans harshly, reminding them that Hillary Clinton won the majority of votes.  Luckily, since there were so many astonishing experiences over the next few days, those discussions began to taper off and conversations centered on our experience du jour.

With Tanya and Rory as our guides, we were off in our van to Kilkenny.
During the drives from one destination to the next, Tanya would regale us with interesting factoids and Irish words such as “sláinte,” which means cheers, or “craic” which means fun.  The official language is Irish so all government documents are in both Irish and English.  There is a reason the Irish countryside is so lush and that’s because it rains a great deal but instead of referring to it as “rain,” it is dubbed “liquid sunshine,” a much more poetic definition.  Driving through the cities or countryside, one similarity is the sparkling windows and delicate lace curtains peeking through the shining windows.  It reminded me to call in a window washer as soon as I returned to California.

Our first stop was for lunch at the famous The Marble Bar but before food was served, P.J. Lanigan regaled us with stories about Ireland’s national sport Hurling, an outdoor team game of ancient Gaelic and Irish origin.  Older than the recorded history of Ireland the game is thought to predate Christianity. The sport came to Ireland with the Celts and has been an Irish pastime for at least 2000 years, but has been legal only since 1984.  P.J., who is a member of the most successful team in Ireland, explained that every town and village has a Hurling Club and that you play where you were born. The game is overseen by the GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association,) which has a membership of 2,000 clubs. There is a similar game for women called Camogie.  Lanigan explained that Hurling is an international sport with 34 Hurling teams in New York and several in Santa Monica. With the sport being part of the Irish DNA, by age four, children are given baby Hurleys with which to begin to practice. Apparently, talks on Hurling are very popular tourist attractions so put The Marble Bar on your travel itinerary.

After a traditional Irish lunch, we were off to explore Kilkenny, once the medieval capital of Ireland and home to a collection of historic landmarks.  We were to see the sights of Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile, beginning with Kilkenny Castle.  The original Anglo-Norman stone castle was built during the first decade of the 13^th century.   Later, it became the principal Irish residence of the powerful Butler family for almost 600 years when in 1967 Arthur, 6^th Marquess of Ormonde gave it to the people of Kilkenny for a token payment of (£)50.  The grounds are quite spectacular and offer perfect photo opportunities.  This sign of the times was posted:  Please Note:  The Use of Drones is Not Permitted at Kilkenny Castle.

To discover more of this city’s hidden treasures, buy a Medieval Mile Pass for only €39. This will give you access to many sites and buried secrets in its 800-year history. Some of those sights include Kilkenny Castle, Rothe House, Medieval Mile Museum, and Smithwick’s Experience. Also available is the Kilkenny Ghost Tour, which will introduce you to the resident ghosts or if you enjoy sight seeing by train, there is the Kilkenny Road Train Tours starting at only (£)8.  For you athletes, there is Golf, Footgolf, and Rugby Golf at Pockocke Golf Center.

Our day had been a fascinating one and much to our delight our next stop was to visit Smithwick’s Ale Experience Visitor Centre.  This is the original site where beer was brewed from the 1700s until 2014.  Some of the original rooms involved in the brewing process has a hologram of a person giving pointers on the different aspects of the brewing process, ranging from grains, hops, yeast, water, fermentation, and equipment used in producing a “pint.”  At the end of the tour, we were treated to a variety of beers all with distinctly different flavors.

Our exciting day was capped off by an equally exciting evening of music and dinner. Kyteler’s Inn, Kilkenny’s oldest pub, is famous for having its guests play the traditional Irish drum called the “Bodhran.”  Those of us who were brave volunteered to be in the drum circle and before we started banging way in guided  patterns, it was explained to us that the legend of drumming dates back to the Celts, who would drum before going into battle.  This is a fun experience you definitely want to put on your Ireland vacation. Following drumming, dinner, lively conversations and a ton of “craic,” we headed to The River Court Hotel where we would spend the night.  Tomorrow promised to be another packed day of adventures and a good night’s sleep was of the utmost of importance.

DAY 2:  After a good night’s rest and a delicious buffet breakfast, we were off to Jerpoint Park – Lost Town of St. Nicholas – located outside Thomastown, County Kilkenny.  Founded in the 12^th century, this was once a bustling town, access to which was a toll bridge on the River Nore, the fastest running river in Europe.  The town was thought to have fourteen taverns, more than enough to quench the thirst of the inhabitants who lived in the 27 homes.  Power was generated by two water wheels servicing the courthouse, woolen mill, a tannery and a brewery.

This historic site is managed by Maeve and her husband, a most entertaining 73-year-old Joe O’Connell, who served as our guide.  He had retired from his business but decided he didn’t like not being busy, so he bought this property not knowing the hidden historic treasures he would eventually unearth.  As we wandered through the grounds, he regaled us with fascinating stories about the past. Aided in his walking with the use of a stick called a Shillelagh, he took us through the ancient cemetery pointing out the various graves where St. Nicholas, known as the patron saint of prostitutes, might be buried.  Joe also explained that for easy identification, the shape of each headstone was particular to each family.  This informative walk back in time was capped off by a fascinating demonstration of his award-winning sheep herding.  Joe’s Sheepdog, a highly intelligent Border Collie, is trained to herd sheep and geese and understands Joe’s multiple hand signals telling him which way to move the flock.  It’s quite amazing to see how precisely in tune they are with each other.

After a sinfully sugary snack, we were off again, this time to Woodstock Gardens and Aboretum, in Kilkenny’s Inistioge County.  The gardens date back to 1840 and have been almost totally restored to reflect that period.  Head gardener John Delaney walked us through this idyllic setting where we saw a walled garden, terraced garden, yew walk, Monkey Puzzle and Noble Fir Avenues, named for the plants and trees growing in those locations.  With a sudden downpour, it was fun to take refuge in one of the gardeners’ sheds where the fragrant aromas from the plants and trees delighted our sense of smell.  When the rain finally subsided, we headed to the tearoom for a delicious snack and were off again.

After a short drive, we arrived in New Ross, in County Wexford for our visit to the reconstructed Dunbrody Famine Ship or The Irish Emigrant Experience.  The cramped living quarters were difficult on the senses as it was damp with an unpleasant dank odor.  It was hard to imagine that about 200 people, filling 40 bunk beds, lived under those conditions for six to eight weeks. They were allowed topside only to cook and received three quarts of drinking water daily.  Many people died during the crossing due to the oppressive unsanitary conditions. The heart-breaking stories of famine were re-enacted by actors dressed in period costumes.  It did give one a sensory taste of what these people endured to get to America.

Life is about balance so we went from the tragically difficult to the wonderfully sublime as we were to have dinner at the luxurious 1830’s Dunbrody Country House Hotel & Restaurant located in Dunbrody Park.  It is owned by Catherine and Celebrity MasterChef Kevin Dundon, who also runs the Dunbrody Cookery School.  The property is nestled on 300 acres of parklands on the Hook Peninsula.  Kevin is one of Ireland’s most famous chefs and has been a guest on many television food shows around the world.  He prepared an outstanding meal for us consisting of pan-fried Kilmore Quay Scallops with citrus salad and garden herbs; roasted Rosé Veal Rib; and Braised Shoulder with port sauce with gratin dauphinois.  The meal was topped off with a garden rhubarb and vanilla rice pudding.  We ate, drank and were very merry and looked forward to the next day which promised more exciting adventures and more of Ireland’s famous exquisite cuisine.

Stay tuned for Part 2 for more Ireland adventures including a visit to the famous Hook Lighthouse, two stunning gardens, and surprise revelations.

The post Exploring Great Houses, Castles & Gardens of Ireland’s Ancient East appeared first on Traveling Archive.

The tariffs?  The lowest rate per night, off-season is $194, and the price tops off at $340/night in season, for that beach-front unit. (Worth noting:  Casa del Mar has a packed spring break/Easter season as well as a very busy July Fourth period, so plan ahead, even for those warmer months.)  Unlike many other places on Longboat Key, where the minimum rental is a month or two, Casa del Mar offers four- and seven-night packages, although most stays are seven to ten nights. (At some of the island’s more prestigious addresses, a night in season could easily top $700.) Because the Casa del Mar complex is older, most units have been updated with new, well-equipped kitchens and modern baths. (Notice that that noun is plural — as in TWO baths — another advantageous selling point.) Moreover, you can view all the units on line, to pick the one that feels most like home.

But then, again, you’re likely not going to want to stay at your home-away-from-home, while vacationing and there is plenty to do not only on Longboat Key, but also in greater Sarasota… for everyone.

Arguably the biggest attraction in the area is the famed Ringling Museum Complex. John Ringing was one of five brothers responsible for the establishment of the legendary Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus.  Alas, those visionaries may be turning over in their graves, knowing that the circus has reached the inevitable finish line, in the Internet era of social media. But at the museum campus, the legend lives on gloriously.

You could easily spend a day here, particularly at the circus museum, where there are many interactive exhibits and activities for children. Kids of all ages, whether 9 or 99, will learn so much interesting trivia — like the fact that the showy blankets used on the elephants require 75 yards of fabric, thousands of rhinestones, and can weigh up to 200 pounds.  For my money, the highlight of the visit is the to-scale (3/4″ to the foot) model of a circus, called Howard Bros. Circus. It is the painstaking, lifelong work of Howard Tibbals, and it has been called “a magical world more than 50 years in the making.” Consisting of nearly one million pieces, it features a staggering 1,500 performers, 152 wagons, 7,000 folding chairs for circus visitors, and some 900 spectators.

A centerpiece of the complex is Ringling’s home which he shared with his wife, Mable.  In 1911, they purchased 20 acres of rustic, Gulf-front property in Sarasota, where they built their lavish home, Ca’ d’Zan (House of John, in a Venetian dialect), and a museum (modeled after the Uffizi Gallery in Florence) to house all the treasures (think Velazquez, van Dyke, and Rubens) Ringling “picked up” on his many trips to Europe, seeking out circus acts.

While the buildings fell into disrepair over the years, the Florida State legislature rescued the complex in 2000, and put its stewardship under the aegis of Florida State University, which has a tradition of fostering the arts.  Today, the campus is home to the Sarasota Ballet, the highly acclaimed Asolo Repertory Theatre, and the FSU/Asolo Conservatory for Actor Training (which receives 1,500 applications a year for 12 slots!).

The Asolo Rep stages up to fifteen productions every season, spanning a diverse repertoire, from newly commissioned plays to bold interpretations of contemporary and classical works. The theatre itself was erected originally in Asolo, Italy, in 1798, and was brought to Sarasota in the early 1950s and was meticulously restored in 2006.

Another delightful place to visit is the Marie Selby Gardens which features the most varied living and preserved collections of epiphytes (plants that find their nutrition from the air).  The museum has over 20,000 plants, including 5,500 orchids and 3, 500 bromeliads. There are rotating exhibits, and in February, 2018, the Gardens will stage “Warhol: Flowers in the Factory,” which will highlight horticultural interpretations of the artist’s work and will also showcase his iconic silkscreens of hibiscus. The younger set will revel in the Anne Goldstein Children’s Rainforest Garden, with interactive activities, a waterfall and natural pool, canopy walk and rope bridge, a 100-year-old banyan tree, a research center, and the Epiphyte Canyon.

Mom may want to revel in a day of pampering without the family, and the Ritz-Carlton Spa at the eponymous hotel in Sarasota is the picture-perfect haven of sanctum. The Web site notes that there are “Spoil Her Silly” treatments (and if dad comes along, note that there are “Spoil Him Silly” treatments, also), among the many dozens of offerings, including a Chardonnay manicure and pedicure.  Choose the Day of Indulgence, and you will luxuriate with three treatments and a delicious lunch that you should take al fresco on the bucolic terrace, where you can bliss out.

And while you could easily cook a family meal at Casa del Mar (there are barbecues at a patio BBQ center for guests), chances are you will want to dine out a few nights and there is no dearth of places for both family-friendly and fine dining. The Gulf Drive Café offers hearty platters of delicious breakfast fare — piles of waffles, stacks of delicious pancakes, fresh fruit salads, and mouth-watering eggs. After breakfast, take advantage of being in Bradenton and check out the mom-and-pop gift shops, particularly on nearby Anna Maria Island, where charming boutiques reign (look for Pink & Navy, Tide & Moon Jewelry, and The White Egret & The Egret’s Nest). A destination for dinner is the popular Dry Dock Waterfront Grill, which has received raves from hither, thither, and yon, including in the Boston Herald, the Cincinnati Enquirer, and the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette. Seafood doesn’t get much better.  Another go-to restaurant is Harry’s Continental Kitchen, which houses a triple threat — a deli, a corner store, and a kitchen that not only serves up toothsome fare (the dining room is charming, decorated with little twinkling white lights, in a near-all-white setting), but also provides catering. For a sumptuous meal that will herald back to the flavors and ambiance of old-world Havana, head to St. Armand’s Circle, to the Columbia, a cousin to the original Tampa outpost, where in former days, local cigar-factory workers came for the Cuban coffee and ethnic-flavored sandwiches. If you hang around St. Armand’s Circle for indulgent fun and shopping, then drop into the Creperie Caffe, where the crepes are so plentiful and diverse, you’ll want to have both a savory and a sweet one.  And note the sign on the blackboard:  “We do not have WiFi.  Talk to each other, pretend it’s 1995.” At least one night you must visit Euphemia Haye, and even if you do not dine there, visit the upstairs Haye Loft for cocktails, light bites, music, and… drum roll!!… the most extraordinary, mouthwatering, delectable, awe-inspiring, jaw-dropping desserts you might ever see in one place.  Come hungry.

And thus you will leave Sarasota and Longboat Key, sated, and with your wallet still relatively intact.

© Ruth J. Katz 2017 All Rights Reserved

The post Splendid Sarasota and Vacation Condos to Covet appeared first on Traveling Archive.