Display City: Washington D.C.

I visited my aunt in Washington DC. My plan was to visit all the museums DC had to offer but, by the 3rd day, I was exhausted because I traveled by subway and by foot.

Note: If you plan to go here, do enough exercise to prepare for a marathon. Here’s a map of some of the places I visited.

I was planning to list the different exhibits but I realized there are just too many to jot down; so let me just give you my overall impression.

Washington DC, is a smorgasbord of museums. I stayed there for a week but even that was not enough time to go through all that DC has to offer. There are sites to see both inside (the museums) and outside (Lincoln Memorial, the Korean and Vietnam War Memorials, the WW II Memorial, the MLK Jr Memorial, etc.). Most of them are free. The ones that you have to pay to get in (like the Spy Museum, the Holocaust, Memorial Museum, the Museum of the Bible, etc.) are privately funded and the entrance is usually about $30.

DIRECTIONS

It’s hard to figure the logic of the roads near the Washington Monument but it helps to imagine a spider web where the Washington Monument is in the center and all the streets are radiating from that (that’s why there are a lot of wedges and curved streets). If you look at Google Maps there isn’t too much detail and I think that’s done on purpose for security reasons. Traveling by foot I noticed buildings and organizations I never even knew existed. Another good visual to start a map in your head is to envision a rectangular shape from the Lincoln Memorial to the World War II Memorial to the Washington Monument and to the US Capitol building. I figured the best way to get around was to simply ask the locals.

AWESOME

There is majesty in the design and size of the buildings. And there is serenity in the open spaces. There is endless variety in the themes of each exhibit. There are priceless paintings, sculptures and furniture that remind you of the hardship of eras long gone by that brought about the birth of a new nation. Different ethnicities — African, Asian, European, South American — cry out to be heard. Fossils, stuffed animals/birds and insects reminded me of Noah’s ark; while airplanes and rocket ships made me wonder what else God has hidden for us to discover.

There was so much to absorb for visitors like me that I found myself rushing and taking endless pictures to be appreciated back home. There were no seats nor benches to pause and breathe in the masterpieces. It was as if the museums were designed to herd the tourists through as quickly as possible.

GOVERNMENT

Aside from the exhibits, I had to remember that this “little town” is the heart of America. Inside the surrounding buildings powerful leaders were making decisions that would resonate around the nation and rest of the world. The Executive, the Legislative, and the Judicial branches are in close proximity to each other — hey, what’s that I smell? Corruption? Off with their heads! How I wish our leaders are still in awe of their huge responsibility to mankind.

Whatever your race, skin color, gender, age, religion or political party, when you go to DC, you can be proud of the tapestry of our country — the great political experiment called the United States of America.

TGIF People!

“In known history, nobody has had such capacity for altering the universe than the people of the United States of America. And nobody has gone about it in such an aggressive way.” — Alan Watts

“If they hear and serve Him,
They will end their days in prosperity
And their years in pleasures.” – Job 36:11

JOKE OF THE WEEK

Thanks to Clinton of Arizona

Parting Shots

Thanks to Maling of New Manila, Philippines

Thanks to Art of Sierra Madre. CA

I found these

The Traveling Boy

My good friend (and jokester) Terry and I came up with these.

SUBSCRIBE

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I have just returned from Surreal360: A Salvador Dalí Experience, which is now open in Miami. Opening night guests embarked a journey into the mind of Salvador Dalí, the Spanish surrealist artist world-renowned for his technical skill and precise draftsmanship. In addition to over 170 original artworks by Dalí, there is an immersion aspect similar to popular Van Gogh exhibits.

With the aid of technology, we enjoyed augmented reality experiences. By swiping our phones in front of selected work, animation brought his art to life while teaching the true story behind his works as we listened to a narration about Dalí’s artistic world. It is super cool, and a much better experience that envelops the world of Dalí.

I give this experience a thumbs-up to adult audiences. This multi-sensory experience will submerge you in the world of Dalí’s works in playful, imaginative ways that delight and inspire. In addition to original artworks by Salvador Dalí, Surreal360: A Salvador Dalí Experience includes a surreal painting room, where virtual reality headsets enable a potent and playful ride into impossible artistic realms, a multi-sensory sculptural experience, submerging visitors in the lights and sounds of Dalí’s surrealist world, and an augmented reality experience that brings the art to life and tells the true story behind the works of Dalí and his artistic world.

Revered as one of the greatest artists of the 20th century, Salvador Dalí is known for his striking and dreamlike surrealist imagery, influenced by his admiration for Renaissance art. Dalí experimented with a wide range of artistic activities from the late 1930s until his death in 1989, including painting, sculpting, designing fabrics, perfume bottles, jewelry, photography and also performance arts, having collaborated with other contemporary powerhouses including Walt Disney and Alfred Hitchcock.

As I explored the immersive exhibit, the now-deceased artist’s old quote about his own immersion into his art style was particularly applicable.

“I am not a Surrealist; I am Surrealism. Surrealism is not a party or a label; it is a state of mind, unique, to each his own, that can be affected by no party line, taboo, or morality,” Salvador Dalí said. “It is the total freedom to be and the right to absolute dreaming.”

For more information about the Miami exhibit, visit https://surreal360.ticketplate.com/checkout/surreal-360-a-salvador-dali-experience-2202141005

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Are several lumps of sugar worth putting in an historic museum? That may sound like a funny question, but the fact is that yes they are – especially if they’re part of the Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms (CWR) in London.

Located a short walk from Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, the CWR opened in 1984 and is, at least in my view, one of the most intriguing museums in London. Although the city is full of captivating museums to suit almost every taste in things to see and do, the CWR should be a “must see” for everyone visiting London. Seeing it up close and personal makes you feel as if you’re actually there in those dark days of 1940 when Hitler’s troops were expected to invade Great Britain tomorrow. Every room in this magnificent museum has been restored to the way it was when World War Two ended in May, 1945.

One of the most important areas of the Cabinet War Rooms is the Map Room and, when you first see it you’re struck, as I was, by the profusion of white, red and green telephones – they’re every where. The desk of the most important man in the room – the Chief Map Room Officer – is strategically located in the center of the display, and it turns out he had a very sweet tooth. Maybe it was because sugar was in such short supply back then, but for some unknown reason he saved all his sugar lumps in an envelope – which he placed in his top desk drawer. During the restoration in 1980, when it was decided to make everything look the way it was during World War Two, one of the restorers opened all the drawers of this desk and, lo and behold, found these still perfect lumps of sugar! Wow!!! And yes, they too have been saved in this intriguing museum, at least they were when I visited a few years ago.

Because the CWR was the nerve center of Churchill’s strategy in the planning of Britain’s wartime efforts in those days, the museum’s location is also “somewhat secret.” Their exact address is Clive Steps, King Charles Street, London, SW1A, but it’s very easy to miss because it’s almost hidden from view off the Horse Guards Road. Unless you knew it was there, you could easily miss it altogether. It’s online at the Imperial War Museum site and then scroll down the page and click on “Cabinet War Rooms & Churchill Museum Home.” For more information on Great Britain in general, let me suggest you go to the Visit Britain site – If London is in your travel plans, I hope you’ll find time to visit this unique, one-of-a-kind museum. I know you’ll find it fascinating.

A final question. When they found those lumps of sugar in the restoration process, and as they wanted EVERYTHING to be “as it was in WW2” do you think they left those EXACT lumps, or did they insert new ones – and possibly change them periodically due to dust and such?

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Words are everywhere. The floor you walk upon reveals the development of language from cave dwellings to hieroglyphics to alphabets from around the world. Elevators resemble libraries. No admonishments to use your inside voices here; but definitely use your words. The museum is divided into the foundations of language; all the cool things you can do with words, and ultimately why words matter.

So first, you see how babies acquire language skills. We initially babble a lot of sounds, but only retain those that find a home in our native tongue. A massive word wall houses over 1000 words that visitors call out to see how they were developed, relate to each other or integrate with other languages. The explanations of the visuals are enchanting. Everything is interactive; everything is entertaining; everything is fun.

The many side experiences in every gallery are fascinating in themselves but so easy to overlook. You might miss the signs above the entrance to the Joking Around Room: “Outside of a dog, a book is a man’s best friend. Inside of a dog, it’s too dark to read.” Bada boom.

At the Visual Puns exhibit, check out the large picture, among many, of two suitcases, one laughing and one crying. The tag line? Emotional Baggage. Move on to a table with two computers where you and a friend get to read jokes to each other and try to make each other laugh – or not. Yes, they’re corny but you’ll laugh out loud anyway. What’s the difference between a hippo and a Zippo? One’s heavy and the other is a little lighter….  See? Very hard to keep a straight face.

The Word World offers word paintings using adjectives. Pick up the Hibernal brush and snow appears over the nature scene on the wall; the Nocturnal brush brings darkness, Tempestuous, rain and wind. Ah, but the Magical brush elicits great whimsy. Paint the deer on the wall and it becomes a unicorn; splash it across the airplane and it turns into a magic carpet. Are you smiling yet?

In the Magical Library, people appear to walk on the ceiling. Read a descriptive plaque to a wall mirror and a 3-D diorama pops up before you – open the drawer below to find the book from which the scene is taken. I shook my head in further disbelief when I opened a random book to a designated page and the book lit up as a narrator read the story and relevant images kept re-appearing next to the book. Who thinks of these things????  It all feels very surreal.  Always a good word….

Feeling a little overwhelmed? Find the secret room – no help from me here – that takes you to the poetry nook – a quiet space in a very sensory-overload environment in which you get to sit back, relax, breathe out and let a sonorous voice reciting poetry re-vitalize you.

Want some tips on public speaking? Head to the Lend Me Your Ears Auditory Gallery. Learn when to effectively pause in your remarks. When repetition reinforces your message. Or how the use of metaphor may better convey your meaning. Then you can go into a private recording booth and deliver your own speech. Fortunately, I presume, without any hecklers in the audience.

Beware of the I’m Sold Gallery where you may have to come to terms with how susceptible you are to advertising. Here you’ll encounter how words are used to persuade and change people’s minds through ads, videos and social media. Subtle but very effective to the easily gullible. That would probably be all of us. With, of course, deference paid to those slogans that have become part of the English lexicon: Where’s the Beef? What’s in your Wallet? Melts in your Mouth…

And think about this. What do you say when you drink something refreshing? Ahhh, yes?  So it’s no accident that three major bottled water companies are named Evian, Aquafina and Dasani. All have the Ahhh sound. Coincidence?

The final gallery is devoted to How Words matter. People, known and unknown, talk about how words have changed their lives, how the power of certain words, expressions, stories significantly impacted them.

Well, maybe not the final gallery should you choose to go to the bathroom before you leave. Not surprisingly, more relevant words that’s not your usual bathroom graffiti…   Heed the call of nature. See a man about a horse. Take a whiz. Tinkle. Gives whole new meaning to potty humor.

I left the museum with a smile on my face, thinking to myself: What a wonderful place! Four little words. One declarative sentence. And yet it says so much. Words are funny that way…

The museum is free though donations are encouraged. For more information, visit Planet Word Museum.

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I felt cautiously optimistic until my friend pointed out – with some degree of pleasure, I thought – that no matter how scrubbed down the room was, how many masks were in evidence or social distance maintained, if such was even possible in a hotel setting, our safety was still not guaranteed. I couldn’t disagree.

Still, my husband and I planned to adhere to all precautions – and the Harbor Hotel Collection providing our accommodations promised to do the same – which they did admirably. After months of quarantine, we decided to face the virus with a defiant stance. We were going to go on living – and for us, that meant traveling. A road trip from Washington, DC seemed like a perfect compromise.

First stop – Chautauqua, New York, where comedy is king – and one special queen… (The two museums are actually in Jamestown, NY, a small town adjacent to Chautauqua).

How many places do you walk into laughing? Flashes of comedic movies, TV shows and stand-ups assault your inner comedian as you enter the National Comedy Center and you feel one with a larger-than-life Rodney Dangerfield. Then a sign comes on reminding you to wash your hands – and you stop laughing – but just for a moment. Instead of the pre-Covid wristband, you get a card that provides interactive capability during the virus and a stylus allowing you to touch screens.  And you allow yourself to start laughing again.

The National Comedy Center began as a long-ago vision of the legendary Lucille Ball, the afore-mentioned queen of comedy – a home-grown Jamestown girl, born, bred and buried – for her hometown to become a destination for the celebration of comedy. Still, it didn’t actually open until 2018. Her own much-older museum is just down the street – but more on that later.

First, I had to personalize my comedy experience by picking my favorite comedians, TV shows and films from Cary Grant to Stephen Colbert, All in the Family to Modern Family, The Marx Brothers to Bridesmaids. They lost me at podcasts but turns out my humor runs toward political satire, wry and sophisticated, and observational. My husband took issue with the sophisticated designation….

The museum emphasizes comedy as an art form and illustrates everything that goes into the craft of comedy from inception to production to execution. A sample of Dangerfield’s handwritten notes has him admonishing the audience: “What a crowd! What a crowd!” I didn’t want to know that. Joan Rivers had her own preparation notes: 17 Ways to Handle a Heckler. Okay, so no taking any chances there. Lots of iconic outfits dot the museum from Jerry Seinfeld’s Puffy Shirt to Phyllis Diller’s huge ball gown to Carol Burnett’s wacky characters’ fashion statements.

One exhibit is devoted to all things George Carlin; another to late night hosts from Steve Allen to Seth Myers; another to When Harry Met Sally with two of the most memorable movie scenes ever.

At the stand-up comedy lounge, I got to sit in to view some of my favorite comedians from my initial sense-of-humor profile. I actually looked around for a bartender to take my drink order. A different lounge presented clips from my favorite TV shows.

Passing from one exhibit to another takes you down a hallway of one-liners. At this point you just can’t stop laughing and you may never make it to the end. There’s an academic exhibit which chronicles the history of comedy from the Greeks to vaudeville to the internet. Lest you find that a tad too serious, when you sit on the adjoining bench, what do you think happens? Yes, of course. The bench farts!

There are scripts where inadvertent changes that were made during shooting remained on camera; there is the history of radio from Jack Benny to Howard Stern; and then there is the age-restricted raunchy “Blue Room” for the likes of Lenny Bruce to Wanda Sykes. Everything tells a story of how a joke goes from page to stage, the long grind from comedic inception to commercial success. And it’s all funny!

I, like millions of Americans throughout the 50s, laughed with and at Lucy and Desi Ricardo growing up. The I Love Lucy Show was must-see TV. I liked her – I didn’t love her – but her iconic show no doubt laid the foundation for situation comedies for decades to come. Having a museum of her own in her hometown seemed like a fitting testament.

The Lucy and Desi Museum down the street, while special in its own right, is static by comparison to the Comedy Center. Most of the visuals are behind glass enclosures and I kept looking for something to scan. The West Gallery is devoted to Lucy and Desi, their relationship, their family; the East Gallery, to their studio and show, with replicas of all the rooms of the Ricardo’s second apartment. Any fan would feel transported back in time and onto the TV set.

For a Lucille Ball fan, this would be a tiny bit of heaven. Since I was more socially distanced (in every sense of the word), I just was sorry to read that Lucy and Desi got divorced the day after the last show aired in 1961. After four hours steeped in laughter, I left feeling sad. That just seemed wrong, so I headed back to the Comedy Center. Problem solved.

Traveling on to Watkins Glen and the 1000 Islands as part of the Empire State Road Trip will be covered in future articles. For more information call (607) 535-3759 or check out the following sites:

Empire State Road Trip, Harbor Hotel Collection

National Comedy Center

Lucille Ball Desi Arnaz Museum

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Henry VIII and Hampton Court Palace

When one invokes images of English King Henry VIII they’re generally of an obese and egoistical king, who was no stranger to the royal casting couch, despite his marrying six of his conquests. But this is not the Henry of early years; an avid hunter and sportsman, a helpless romantic, sublime dancer, and highly educated man who actually composed his own songs and played numerous musical instruments. Henry was in born in 1491, the second son of King Henry VII. He was once a tall and slender man, considered physically attractive and charismatic by many. But a tragic jousting accident led to a life-long, unhealed wound on his leg, ending his physical days of sport, dancing, and hunting. Plus, he was confronted with daily excruciating pain that added greatly to his to his discomfort in walking and gruff demeanor. No English King, though, was more responsible for laying the groundwork for making the British Empire the world’s greatest power, lasting for two-hundred years, with flags flying over 40% of the globe.

With the death of his Henry’s elder brother, he became heir to the English throne, but was considered unfit to rule at the age of 10. Cardinal Thomas Wolsey was awarded the title of Lord Chancellor, and stepped in to rule the nation and amassed a considerable fortune. Sparing no expense, Wolsey built the original Tudor palace, Hampton Court Palace, along the Thames, then on the outskirts of London. It was considered the finest palace in England. Henry was soon anointed king, and, in the Tudor tradition, married the widow of his brother, Katharine of Aragon from Spain.

When Katharine, now in her 40s, was unable to produce a male heir, he turned his eyes on one of Katharine’s ladies-in-waiting, Anne Boleyn. He instructed Wolsey to ask Pope Leo X to annul his first marriage, but when Wolsey failed to succeed in this impossible task, Henry broke with the church and married the now pregnant Anne Boleyn. Henry was excommunicated from the church, and the English reformation began where he appointed himself as head of the Church of England.

Hampton Court attracted Henry’s attention, and Woolsey, who had fallen out of favour, wisely gifted him the palace. Henry was a lavish spender, always in need of income, so he ordered that 800 well-funded monasteries be disbanded and their lands and treasures taken for the crown. No expense was too much for Henry as he began to enlarge Hampton Court. He already owned over sixty houses and palaces, yet few were large enough to hold or feed his assembled court of 1,000 subjects. A vast kitchen was built, quadrupling the original size. The renovation of the palace followed the design by Wolsey’s Gothic Tudor and Baroque architectural-style, adorned with Renaissance ornaments.

A visit to Hampton Court today is a step back into history. I was overwhelmed by its scope and size, and could easily have spent countless hours there. At its gatehouse there’s the astronomical clock, made for Henry VIII, and 30 or so suites used for the grandest visitors, with the opulence depending on the status of the occupant.

Once inside, I was confronted with the lavish use of half-timber, rectangular and bay windows, carved wood paneled walls, lavish moldings and design. Two staircases lead to the 106 ft. long and 40 ft. wide Great Hall banquet room where Henry would ‘play’ the role of a Renaissance monarch. The hall features a spectacularly decorated hammer-beam, and walls covered by Henry’s most treasured tapestries. I was pleasantly surprised to find everything so accessible, making it easy to become part of the experience. I felt like a monarch by literally sitting at Henry’s place at the grand table, or laying down in a large sleeping room, which I assumed was for less distinguished guests, for there was only straw on the floor as bedding.

Henry used Hampton Court to demonstrate magnificence and power through lavish banquets, extravagant court life and expensive art. By the 1530s, Hampton Court became a palace, a hotel, a theatre and a vast leisure complex. It was Henry’s favorite royal residence, and only two of his surviving ones.

Mozart – Geburtshaus & Museum – Salzburg, Austria

Johann Chrysostom Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart could read and compose music, plus play the violin and piano, when he was five years old. Born into a musical family in Salzburg, Austria (then the Holy Roman Empire), he had a unique ability for imitating music, which first became evident when he recited a musical piece by simply observing his father conducting a lesson to his older sister. This led to a childhood on the road, where the young prodigy performed before many of the royal courts of Europe. At 17, no longer a child prodigy, he returned to Salzburg and accepted a post as a court musician, but was frustrated with the poor salary and lack of opportunities. His early travels and uncanny memory, though, had provided him with a plethora of musical styles and experiences, from which he used to create his own compositional language. He eventually settled in Vienna where he achieved fame, and is now considered one of the most influential and prolific composers of the Classical era. Mozart was never happy with his career in Salzburg as he experienced little fame; however, the city today is a Mecca for all things Amadeus. An essential stop is a visit to Mozart’s Geburtshaus (birthplace).

This is the house where his parents lived for 26 years and young Mozart was educated. Now a three-story museum, it is filled with original instruments – Mozart’s childhood violin, concert violin, clavichord and pianoforte – portraits, family letters, and furniture and objects of daily use, including Mozart’s very cradle. I strongly recommend a private tour, where guides are walking encyclopedias about his life. I asked why were Mozart’s famous eyes so bulging? He didn’t eat his vegetables!

Another Mozart must is a dinner concert at the famous Stiftskeller St. Peter, considered the “oldest restaurant in Europe.” The concert is performed by candlelight between food courses, prepared with traditional recipes from Mozart’s era. Period-costumed musicians, including two opera singers, perform arias from “Don Giovanni”, “Le Nozzi di Figaro” and “The Magic Flute.” Dining under magnificent chandeliers and surrounded by 18th century décor, not to mention the stirring music, is like being transported back to the magical times of Mozart.

The setting in Salzburg, itself an enchanting fairytale of a city, only enhances the experience. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city’s wealth was built on the mining of salt (‘salt’ translates to ‘salz’ in German, hence the city’s name). The west bank of the Salsas River borders the Alborg Historic Centre (known to locals as the Altadt), and is where most of the attractions are located. The fortress Festung Hohensalzburg towers over stunning baroque architecture and narrow cobblestone streets where smartly dressed locals sit in elegant coffee houses, noshing on delicate pastries and Mozartkugln (Mozart chocolate balls).

Edvard Grieg – Troldhaugen & Grieg Museum – Bergen, Norway

Despite his diminutive 5 ft frame, Norwegian composer Edvard Hagerup Grieg was a towering rock star long before the expression existed. Born into a successful Bergen merchant family in 1843, his life dramatically changed when violin virtuoso Ole Bull recognized his talent and also introduced him to the treasures of Norwegian folk music. Grieg studied the masters abroad, but dreamed of reprieves to his beloved Norwegian countryside – a pattern which continued after he became a world-renowned composer. Grieg and his wife built a home on Lake Nordås on the edge of Bergen, which he called his best opus so far. Christened Troldhaugen, the Victorian villa featured a tower, flag pole and rooftop vegetable garden. It soon became a center piece for Bergen’s artistic community and visiting dignitaries. Grieg loved the attention, but needed quiet to work, and built a composer’s hut by the lake. Grieg died in 1907 of chronic exhaustion. But today his legacy lives on at Troldhaugen – a living museum consisting of the Edvard Grieg Museum, the Villa, the Composer’s Hut, Concert Hall and Edvard Grieg´s tomb.

For me the highpoint of a visit to Troldhaugen was a recital at the concert hall, which is discreetly built right into the grounds, complete with sod roof. The floor-to-ceiling windows behind the stage overlooks the composer’s hut where Grieg would work, superstitiously sitting on a stack of sheet music by Beethoven so that he could reach the piano. At the end of each day, he would leave a note: “If anyone should break in here, please leave the musical scores, since they have no value to anyone except Edvard Grieg.”

It is essential that you spend at least two days in Bergen, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bergen boasts endless tourist attractions, and the Bergen Tourist Card is an important component to your tour of this historic harbor town. The price allows you free or reduced- price admittance to the Bergen Art Museum, Fantoft Stave Church (a medieval wooden cathedral), harbor boat tour, Bergen Castle, and St Mary’s Church. Wander through the harbor fish market and down the wooden streets of the historic warehouse district. A fish buffet should be on everyone’s list for a sampling of Bergen’s world-famous fish soup, gravlaks (cured Atlantic salmon), fish cakes and hearty breads, all washed down with the city’s own Hansa beer.

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Everyone knows Santa Fe is synonymous with art, whether Southwestern, Native American or contemporary. Therefore, it is no surprise that the city is the first in the country to be designated a UNESCO Creative City for Craft and Folk Art with 250-plus galleries. Rest assured, I’m not going to cover them all. For me, “The City Different” designation goes beyond that.

Let’s first dispense with the museums. No disrespect intended. The SITE Santa Fe Museum of Contemporary Art, The Museum of International Folk Art, the New Mexico History Museum, New Mexico Museum of Art, the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, the Georgia O’Keefe Museum plus so many others are indeed wonderful – each one warranting a visit.

Every museum an immersive emotional connection to whatever and whoever it is celebrating. Not to mentions the hundreds of galleries proffering paintings and pottery, artworks and art wear and artifacts, jewelry, ceramics, sculpture, photography – have I forgotten any form of artistic expression? – and if by any stretch of the imagination you have not seen enough art,  there are galleries on steroids and shopping opportunities galore at the Railyard Arts District, Canyon Road and, of course, all around the central plaza which forms the heart of the city.

At this point, I am just longing for some other type of attraction, some sightseeing stereotype – and fortunately, Santa Fe has those, as well. There are three very old structures, each sporting its own history and appeal. First, the Loretto Chapel, built in 1873 as the first Gothic, as opposed to adobe, structure west of the Mississippi and home to probably the most inspirational staircase anywhere. Here’s the story: the architect building the church died before access to the choir loft could be constructed, and the chapel was too small to allow for a traditional staircase. So the nuns did what nuns do: they prayed to St. Joseph, the Patron Saint of Carpenters for 9 days, at which time a carpenter appeared without any of the tools needed to build a staircase. And yet a spiral staircase, taking up little floor space, was built – at which point he disappeared without thanks or payment.

The Miraculous Staircase, as it’s understandably known, built with simple tools, wooden pegs and rare wood not native to the American Southwest, has two complete 360 degree turns with no center pole for structural support.  The entire weight of the staircase rests on the bottom stair. I’m not knowledgeable enough to recognize the feat of engineering this required but I am discerning enough to delight in and be amazed by the story. Just the visual of the staircase itself is moving.

And then there is the Oldest House. And by old, I mean really old as its adobe foundation dates back to an ancient Indian Pueblo circa 1200. The museum itself is relatively new, as recent as 1646. Two rooms with even newer household artifacts from the 1800’s to1900’s rest on part of the original foundation conveying a sense of the family life that thrived back then. Not surprisingly, a sheaf of dried red peppers so prevalent in modern-day Santa Fe also make their appearance here; red chili peppers hang in historical perpetuity!

From oldest house in the U.S. to the oldest Church – San Miguel Mission – and it’s still operating today. You’re probably beginning to pick up that I am more of a history buff than art connoisseur…  Santa Fe and the church were pretty much born in the same year – 1610 – and once again, the original foundation is still evident. There are a number of very old paintings flanking the walls but the most exciting feature is a large church bell sitting proudly behind the mission pews with its own fascinating history dating back to 1356. Now that’s impressive!

The chapel, the church and the house are all situated on the Santa Fe Trail – its own historic landmark — which in 1821 connected Missouri and New Mexico, heralding a decades-long period of trade, adventure and western mobility unheard of before in the new nation. The historic trail ends in the Santa Fe Plaza, which forms the heartbeat and soul of the city. There many Native Americans gather to sell their wares daily alongside the Palace of the Governors. Upon entering the city, we spotted decorative Native symbols on a bridge, heralding an immediate connection with Native American history and culture. That never dissipates. And indeed permeates every facet of the city.

As a Washington, DC resident, I was amused to see a Redskins cap on the head of one of the vendors. When I mentioned the controversy surrounding the name – many claim it is culturally derogatory – he proudly said, “I am a Redskin,” alluding to a lot more than the football team. As for those who object?  “That’s only East Coast lawyers wanting to make money,” he asserted. We left with a hearty, “Go Redskins,” having brought all the history of Santa Fe into the modern era! Native American culture comes full circle!  And oh yes, there is also the art!

For more information, visit the Santa Fe travel site

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Consider the following as an in introduction: a B17G Flying Fortress; a B-29 Superfortress; a marvelous B-52 Stratofortress that flew into Duxford in 1983; an F-15 Eagle from the USAF; an RAF Mosquito; and an airplane that ushered in the true jet age for airline passengers, a British Comet; a superb German “terror of the skies” for allied air crews flying over occupied Europe – an FW 190, and a German ME-109; a Lockheed SR 71 Blackbird; a B-24 Liberator; and a classic C-47 Skytrain (a hugely popular variant being the famous DC-3); a nifty Hawker Hunter;  a De Haviland Sea Venom; a Harrier jump jet that saw active service in the Falklands war; a superb Avro Lancaster; a classic Short Sunderland flying boat. Wow, what a collection – and yes, of course several Spitfires; an American Lockheed Lightning; and the unique British Westland Lysander; and a BAC Concorde among many others.

Not all the aircraft are on the Flight Line. Many are either in one of the hangars, or come from private sources such as The Shuttleworth Collection, the Old Flying Machine Collection and the Duxford Aviation Society.

Of special interest to American visitors is the “American Museum,” the planning for which began in the mid-1980s. A world famous architect, Sir Norman Foster, was commissioned to design it, and it IS spectacular – indeed there were over 50,000 individual US subscribers to help with the funding, and it opened with much fanfare in September 1995. It is 61 feet high and 330 feet deep, dimensions being dictated by the need to accommodate the classic, and huge, B-52, along with the SR Blackbird and others in the same “unique category.”

If you’re into aviation virtually every aspect of Duxford will thrill you, but one of the things that I found especially fascinating, was the large number of workshops (many are the real WW2 hangars!) where skilled mechanics are restoring aircraft. History buffs will know that back in the dark days of the early 1940s, Duxford played a crucial role in the Battle of Britain when it was an RAF fighter base. It was also where the famous RAF Ace Douglas Bader was based – not only for his flying skills, but it was where he became known for the fact that even though he had no legs, the RAF still wanted him to fly as a fighter pilot, and so fitted him with artificial ones.

Later in the war the USAAF took over operations at Duxford culminating – in December 1944 – with Duxford being a USAAF P-51 Mustang fighter base. Sadly, by 1969, Duxford was no longer required as an active air force base, and closure seemed on the horizon. But then the IWM stepped in, and requested that some of some of its (stored) aircraft be placed there on as permanent basis. Over the years its aircraft collection grew and grew and by August 2005 Duxford welcomed its ten millionth IWM visitor!!!

There are numerous air shows throughout the year, and to learn more about every aspect of the place, Google it and type in “Duxford Aviation Museum” and you’ll see a long list of websites. Get your tickets online as well, as it saves time and money. There are rates for seniors (60 plus), kids, groups and students. If you’re in London, the fastest way to get there is a 45 minute ride in an express train from Kings Cross Station to Cambridge, and then either a bus or taxi to Duxford.

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I recently took an expedition to the La Brea Tar Pits to examine the fossil remains and to also see the new Second Home Serpentine Pavilion, a colorful temporary structure that is both a giant piece of art and a functioning public space.

My tour of the tar pits began in the main gallery, where I encountered large ground sloths, massive mammoths, and menacing saber-toothed cats. I also got a chance to look inside a real working lab to watch scientists prepare specimens found on site.

The biggest and most impressive display in the gallery is the Columbian mammoth. Standing nearly 14 ft-tall and weighing some 17,000 pounds this giant proboscidean mammal roamed what is now Los Angeles between 11,500 and 1.6 million years ago. The Columbian mammoth is recreated at La Brea Tar Pits with actual skeletal remains and also with a giant, live-sized model.

Another ancient animal found onsite is the giant ice age bear, which lived 12,000 to 1.5 million years ago. With the help of a giant replica, the museum brings this massive creature to life, giving visitors a scary glimpse of the largest carnivore during the last ice age.

The discovered bones of other extinct animals on display include the American Lion, which resembled today’s lions; the extinct camel, which lived about 45 million years ago; the California saber-tooth cat, with its huge fang-like teeth; the Dire Wolf; and the American mastodon.

So visitors can get an idea of how the bones are cleaned and prepared, there is a working lab in the middle of the museum that is surrounded by windows so guests can watch paleontologists at work.

While touring the museum I learned a lot of history about the tar pits. Over the last 50,000 years, Ice Age animals, plants, and insects were trapped and preserved in sticky tar, which is actually asphalt. More than 100 excavations have been made at the Tar Pits since the early 1900s, and most of the fossils discovered here are housed onsite. The discoveries range in size from huge, extinct mammoths and sloths to “microfossils,” or tiny remains of plants and animals that give us clues about how ancient ecosystems and climates changed. Since opening, the museum has excavated over 3.5 million fossils from the Tar Pits, and they are still digging.

Besides all the incredible bones on display, the museum is also showing a movie called Titans of the Ice Age, which is an additional $5 on top of admission. In this mesmerizing 3D adventure, narrated by Christopher Plummer, viewers will discover an icy world on the brink of extinction, where humans share the frozen tundra with majestic beasts. The movie is a great way to see how these magnificent creatures lived 10,000 – 50,000 years before humans, and how they became trapped in tar, preserved in time, and are being unearthed today at the Tar Pits.

Outside the museum are actual bubbling tar pits, including the large Lake Pit that welcomes visitors near the front entrance. Left over from asphalt mining work in the 1800s, the pit is highlighted by mammoth trapped in tar.

Across the lawn from this pit is the new Serpentine Pavilion, designed by Spanish architect SelgasCano. Organized by Second Home, a London-based workspace business, the 866-sq-ft chrysalis-like structure is covered in a translucent, multi-colored fabric membrane, allowing the public to experience architecture “through shape, light, transparency, color, and materials.”

The pavilion offers the public a flexible, multi-purpose social space in which to enjoy public programs and events focusing on the intersection of art, design, science, and nature. The Second Home Serpentine Pavilion will be at La Brea Tar Pits from June 28 to November 24, 2019.

The La Brea Tar Pits is located at 5801 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, 90036. Adult admission is $15 and parking is $15. For more information, call 213.763.3499 or visit www.tarpits.org

Greg Aragon
Greg’s Getaway

Twitter: @gregsgetaway
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From 1933 to 1945 it was a key airbase for the Luftwaffe, who used it as a training airfield for fighter and bomber crews. Its importance was highlighted on November 11^th, 1935, when Erhard Milch, the Secretary for Aviation in Hitler’s hierarchy, and fighter ace Ernst Udet, came to see it. Nearly 10 years later, on April 25^th, 1945 allied bombers demolished all the runways making them totally unusable.

Although it was used as a helicopter base by the US military after WW2, in 1981 it closed and the airfield and its surrounding buildings fell into disrepair. One of the most fascinating museums in Germany is the Deutches Museum, and in 1988 some of their far sighted officials saw the airfield’s historic value and decided to make it part of their famous aviation section. It opened in 1992, and it’s absolutely fascinating. When I visited they had over 60 aircraft on display, including helicopters, VTOL, jets, hang gliders, seaplanes, flight simulators, engines etc., and it’s an aviation aficionado’s heaven.

I’m intrigued by almost any WW2 aircraft, and there are four in THIS Museum that are spellbinding. A Fiesler Storch; a unique DC3; a VTOL aircraft; and a flying boat.  As a kid growing up in WW2 London, one of the Nazi bombers that bombed our City was the Heinkel 111 – and it transfixed me. It also terrified thousands of Brits during its many forays over the UK, especially those over London, and this Museum had one “under restoration.”  It’s the CASA 2, 111, and was built under license for the Spanish Air Force. However, after serving with them for a good number of years they discarded it in the early 1960s, and in 1968 it was what’s called “written off” as an active aircraft. But this airplane seems to have had an “inborn secret for survival” as she became a Star of sorts, because in 1968 she appeared in a British movie called “The Battle Of Britain,” as what she was – a WW2 Nazi bomber. Her life changed yet again in 1977 when the Deutches Museum purchased her. In 2000 it was decided to bring her it back to her full Spanish Air Force glory, and a massive restoration project began.

Any WW2 aficionado can tell you that any time the Germans needed any sort of battlefield overview of how things stood on the battlefield, they used a marvelous aircraft called the Fielser Storch. It was also used by many top Nazi officials and military brass – and is often seen in movies about WW2 – so it was enthralling to see a living copy of yet another classic airplane.

The Museum’s Dornier 31 was the world’s only VTOL fixed wing transport, and was built by the Germans for research and flight testing. Just 2 were built, after which the concept “died,” so it was another “Bonus Airplane Sight” to see one in this unique museum. When you first glimpse the Museum’s Dornier Do 24 T-3, you’re convinced it’s a classic Catalina flying boat – but no, it is not. Like the Catalina for the Allies, this German seaplane played a vital role in WW2 for the Nazis, who used it as a long range reconnaissance aircraft, troop transport and for air sea rescues. The Museum’s DC-3 is riveting, but for a reason you probably don’t even think about. The reality is that most folks instantly associate the DC-3 (or C-47 as the US military called it) with the Allies in WW2, so to see it in the colors of the modern German Luftwaffe came as a surprise and yes, a jolt to me.

For anyone with even the slightest interest in aviation, this is a MUST SEE museum. It’s easily accessible from nearby Munich by S-Bahn train service route S1 to the Freising Airport and Oberschiessheim station. Email them at

vi************@de**************.de

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