After years of long winter months with nonstop rain and a sun which refused to shine, I packed up my car in Seattle and followed the sun to the warmth of San Diego. I was not disappointed; the city was blessed with 12 months of sunshine with an average temperature between 55 to 75 degrees. Plus, it is now a model for urban renewal where having a car isn’t even necessary. Never-the-less, I would think of my family living in my ancestral homeland of Washington State often. While exploring San Diego’s infinite treasures, I lamented that I always seemed just too busy to explore the wonders in my own home state. My brother-in-law suggested that I should check out the Palouse, a sweeping pastoral area in the eastern region of the state. It’s a four-season destination, he added, and in the spring and fall the sun is always out. Then he said something that really stuck with me: ‘It is paradise found.’ Next family vacation I was off and running.

First Stop — Spokane

Nestled on the far eastern border of the state, Spokane was originally the home of The Spokans (“children of the sun”), who were drawn to the hunting grounds and abundance of salmon in the Spokane River. This changed with the arrival of the first European settlers who established a trading post and eventually a railroad industry that built the city.

Spokane — now the second largest city in Washington — was put on the national radar when it hosted the world’s first environmentally themed World’s Fair in Expo ’74. The event transformed the city’s urban core, removing the rail yard along the river, converting it into the 100-acre Riverfront Park, the centerpiece of the fair. Its legacy remains today with many of the attractions still in use.

On what was a perfect Sunday afternoon, I strolled through the park, watching families frolicking on the Looff Carrousel and the Skyride which glides over the Spokane Falls. As I branched out into the city, it was easy to see that Spokane boasts the best of both worlds: a setting in spectacular natural beauty, but with a plethora of urban pleasures of a re-invented downtown, restaurants, book stores and vibrant nightlife thanks to the presence of Whitworth and Gonzaga Universities. I was hungry to see more. So I rented a car for an exploration of the Spokane Region, where I discovered a world of ancient cedar forests, pristine rivers, quaint small towns, deserted ghost towns and scores of golf courses.

Where to Stay in Spokane: The Davenport Hotel

The iconic Davenport Hotel is a grand hotel of the gilded age. It helped transform Spokane’s dying city core into a vibrant destination where people have returned to live. The district is even named the Davenport Arts District. With that said, it is well-worth a self-guided tour, but it can be hard on the pocketbook.

The Montvale Hotel

A pleasant alternative to the Davenport is just down the street: The Montvale Hotel. On a much smaller scale than The Davenport, this property has re-imagined itself as a premier boutique hotel with a modern twist, while still maintaining the ambience of the downtown’s bygone era. If you’re in town just for the day, it too rates a tour.

On to the Palouse — The Seven Wonders of Washington State

In October 1805, Lewis and Clark arrived in the Palouse region. They were stunned by the beauty and magnitude of this sweeping landscape of rolling hills and plateaus. As with other tribes on their historic exploration, they made friends with the nomadic Palus tribe, renowned as expert equestrians. The term Appaloosa is a derivation of the Palouse horse. Traditionally, the Palouse region was defined as the fertile hills and prairies north of the Snake River in southeast Washington and north central Idaho.

Today The Palouse Scenic Byway combines 208 miles of sweeping hills and spectacular vistas, expansive wheat fields of amber autumn gold, lentil farmlands, and small towns with distinctive, rich history and unpretentious charm.

There is no center to the Palouse Scenic Byway; it is a place to simply leisurely drive along the gentle curving highways, sprinkled with antique shops, wineries, easy access venues for hiking and biking, and, above all, photography. If you ever needed to stop the world and simply relax, this is the place for it.

Selected Stops

Artisans at the Dahmen Barn is a restored dairy barn surrounded by a fence consisting of more than 1000 wagon wheels. Here you can watch local artisans at work. It’s also a great place to shop for regional gifts. Then head down the road to the historic St. Boniface Catholic Church (circa 1904). The church houses the original stained glass windows.

From Kamiak Butte’s 3,641 feet crest travelers enjoy awesome panoramic views of the Palouse’s rolling hills, and a patchwork of the fields and farmlands below. Its 298 acres is ideal for hiking, picnicking, camping, and sightseeing. For wildlife viewing, the Kamiak Butte area features over 130 species of birds, 170 species of plants, and close to 30 species of mammals. Make sure you hike to the crest for unsurpassed photography opportunities.

Steptoe Butte presents a spectacular 360 degree view of the Palouse. Drive or hike the three miles to the top of the 3,618 feet butte for bird watching, hang-gliding, paragliding, photography, and picnicking.

The Snake River Trail, nestled at Boyer Park & Marina, is a four mile trail that leads to the banks of historic Almota Creek, which was a resting place for the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The trail offers a series of interpretive signs explaining the Columbia and Snake River’s system, dams, river geology, and hydroelectric power.

A hidden oasis rests a short drive off the byway:  the Palouse Falls State Park.  The off-the-beaten-path will lead you to stunning views of waterfalls, cascading 198 feet into a round salt-rock canyon. Just outside the park is a small cluster of historical basalt houses and cabins.

Other highlights include the J.C. Barron Flour Mill, built in 1890; the Tekoa Train Trestle that leads to the John Wayne Trail; the Rosalia Visitor Center, housed in a historic Texaco gas station; the four-acre Steptoe Battlefield State Park in Rosalia, the 1858 site where Lt. Col. E.J. Steptoe led 159 U.S. soldiers in a running fight with a large band of Spokan, Palouse and Coeur D’Alene American Indians. Make sure your day ends or evening begins with a visit to one of the many wineries or pubs in Pullman.

Pullman — My Home Base

With a population of 27,030, the charming town of Pullman is similar to the much larger Spokane with spectacular natural beauty surrounding its core, plus offering urban amenities due to Washington State University towering above it. It’s also located right smack in the middle of The Palouse. There’s a refreshing small town feel, and the locals are welcoming and excited that you are exploring their area. Just across the river is the university town of Moscow, Idaho that also makes an attractive home base.

A number of Pullman restaurants have embraced the slow food movement with the emphasis on seasonal and locally grown food. With bread made from local wheat, produce from nearby farms, Cougar Cheese made at WSU, and fish from the Snake and Columbia Rivers, you are quite literally tasting the landscape.

Recommended Pullman Restaurants

Southfork Public House is the brain child of co-owner Jim Harbour, who is also a professor at WSU. Utilizing regional ingredients, it is known for its wine and beer pairings with seasonal local food items. My favorite dish: MAC & CHEESE — penne noodles tossed in WSU-made Cougar Gold cheese sauce, topped with locally smoked bacon & seasonal scallions. The torpedo-like grissini, made with Palouse wheat, is ideal for dunking.

The Black Cypress is a venue that reflects the qualities of the Palouse region that have kept people living here. A hybrid of Greek and local food items, owner Nick Pitsilionis places an emphasis on an appreciation for honest regional food, company and drink. Many of the produce items come from his own farm. A hybrid of Greek and local food items,  many of the produce items are grown on his own farm. My favorite dish: GOLDEN LENTIL SOUP — Washington is the US’ leading producer of lentils — served with seasonal bruschetta that consists of grilled local Panhandle Bakery bread made with Palouse Sheppard’s Wheat.

Where to Stay in Pullman

A Holiday Inn may not seem regional or unique, but there’s something about Pullman’s Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites that takes service and amenities to the next level. And even better, with many self-guided tours beginning and ending in Pullman, the Palouse is right at your doorstep.

Southwest Airlines offers non-stop flights from Seattle to Spokane.

Pullman Chamber of Commerce

The Palouse Scenic Byway

Visit Spokane

The post Four Days in Eastern Washington State appeared first on Traveling Archive.

All photographs by Deb Roskamp unless otherwise noted.

While everyone seemed to be relocating north to Seattle, I bolted from my home town for the bright lights of Los Angeles. But I would return to my ancestral home often. While visiting, I would frequently kick myself for never exploring the amazing attractions outside of the western part of the state. Sure, I knew Western Washington’s Olympic and Cascade mountain ranges, the islands of Puget Sound, the rain forests and the rugged Washington coast well, but I never really gave the rich agricultural eastern part of the state, known more for sun than rain, a chance. This spring I decided to do something about it.

The legacy of Spokane’s World’s Fair in Expo ’74 remains today at
the 100-acre Riverfront Park.

First Stop – Spokane

Nestled on the far eastern border of the state, Spokane was originally the home of The Spokans (“children of the sun”), who were drawn to the hunting grounds and abundance of salmon in the Spokane River. This changed with the arrival of the first European settlers who established a trading post and eventually a railroad industry that built the city.

Spokane – now the second largest city in Washington – was put on the national radar when it hosted the world’s first environmentally themed World’s Fair in Expo ’74. The event transformed the city’s urban core, removing the railroad yard along the river, converting it into the 100-acre Riverfront Park, the centerpiece of the fair. Its legacy remains today with many of the attractions still in use.

On what was a perfect Sunday afternoon, I strolled through the park, watching families frolicking on the Looff Carrousel and the Skyride which glides over the Spokane Falls. As I branched out into the city, it was easy to see that Spokane boasts the best of both worlds: a setting in spectacular natural beauty, but with a plethora of urban pleasures of a re-invented downtown, restaurants, bookstores and vibrant nightlife thanks to the presence of Whitworth and Gonzaga Universities. I was hungry to see more. So, I rented a car for an exploration of the Spokane Region, where I discovered a world of ancient cedar forests, pristine rivers, quaint small towns, deserted ghost towns and scores of golf courses.

Where to Stay in Spokane

The iconic Davenport Hotel is a grand hotel that stems back to the gilded age. It helped transform Spokane’s dying city core into a vibrant destination where people have returned to live.

The district is even named the Davenport Arts District. With that said, it is well-worth a self-guided tour, but it can be hard on the pocketbook.

A pleasant alternative to the Davenport is just down the street: The Montvale Hotel. On a much smaller scale than The Davenport, this property has re-imagined itself as premier boutique hotel with a modern twist, while still maintaining the ambience of downtown’s bygone era. If you’re in town just for the day, it too rates a tour.

On to the Palouse

In October 1805, Lewis and Clark arrived in The Palouse region. They were stunned by the beauty and magnitude of its landscape of rolling hills and plateaus. As with other tribes on their historic exploration, they made friends with the nomadic Palus tribe, renowned as expert equestrians. The term Appaloosa is a derivation of the Palouse horse. Traditionally, the Palouse region was defined as the fertile hills and prairies north of the Snake River in southeast Washington and north central Idaho.

Today The Palouse Scenic Byway combines 208 miles of sweeping hills and spectacular vistas, expansive wheat and lentil farmlands, and small towns with distinctive, rich history and charm.

The Dahmen Barn’s attractions include a gift shop featuring art, fine crafts and products from the Palouse, artisans at work in their studio spaces who will share their creative process with visitors, a monthly art exhibition, and regularly scheduled classes and performance events.

There is no center to The Palouse Scenic Byway; it is a place to simply leisurely drive along the gentle curving highways, sprinkled with antique shops, wineries, easy access venues for hiking and biking, and, above all, photography. If you ever needed to stop the world and simply relax, this is the place for it.

Pullman – My Home Base

With a population of 27,030, the charming town of Pullman is similar to the much larger Spokane with spectacular natural beauty surrounding its core, plus offering urban amenities due to Washington State University towering above it. It’s also located right smack in the middle of The Palouse. There’s a refreshing small town feel, and the locals are welcoming and excited that you are exploring their area.

A number of Pullman restaurants have embraced the slow food movement with the emphasis on seasonal and locally grown food. With bread made with local wheat, produce from nearby farms, cheese made at the WSU and fish from the Snake and Columbia Rivers, you are quite literally tasting the landscape.

Recommended Pullman Restaurants

South Fork Public House is the brain child of co-owner of Jim Harbour, who is also a professor at WSU. Utilizing regional ingredients, they are known for their wine and beer pairings with seasonal local food items.

My favorite dish: MAC & CHEESE – penne noodles tossed in WSU-made Cougar Gold cheese sauce, topped with locally smoked bacon & seasonal scallions. The torpedo-like grissini, made with Palouse wheat, makes a popular component to the meal.

The Black Cypress is a venue that reflects the qualities of the Palouse region that keep people living here. A hybrid of Greek and local food items, owner Nick Pitsilionis places an emphasis on an appreciation for honest food, company, and drink. Many of the produce items come from his own farm.

My favorite dish: TIE: Golden Lentil Soup – Washington is the US’s leading producer of lentils – served with seasonal bruschetta that consists of grilled local Panhandle Bakery bread made with Palouse Sheppard’s Wheat.

And in-house smoked back bacon from a hog raised on the WSU campus, along with local apples and Guinness mustard, whose hops are imported from Yakima, Washington, served on the side. Guinness hops.

Joan Swensen’s love for fusion-style cooking was piqued during her decade of living and eating out “a lot” in San Francisco. Her restaurant reflects this passion with unique parings, using regional items as much as possible. Joan’s Swilly’s restaurant is now gone, but her passion with unique parings, using regional items continues on as Executive Chef at Paradise Creek Brewery in Pullman.

My favorite dish: Gazpacho – the best I’ve ever had – made completely with local produce, followed by Sage-Chipotle Pork Tenderloin with Vanilla-Fig Sauce, Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes and Baby Bok Choy

Where to Stay in Pullman

A Holiday Inn may not seem regional or unique, but there’s something about Pullman’s Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites that takes service and amenities to the next level. And even better, The Palouse is right at your doorstep.

Extra: Central Washington’s Lower Yakima Valley

With the stars above and the lights below best describes Roskamp Vineyard’s enchanting position on top of Snipes Mountain in Central Washington’s Lower Yakima Valley. With the majesty of Mt. Rainer and Mt. Adams in the distance, the vineyard was the brainchild of Herman Roskamp (1922 – 2002) and his wife, Gay. They diligently dedicated themselves to the labor intensive work and patience of creating a world-class vineyard from scratch. The Yakima Valley has long been an abundant produce belt for the Pacific Northwest – not to mention its golden hops are exported to the Guinness brewery in Dublin – and it only made sense that vineyards would soon follow. Mr. Roskamp knew his vineyard would be a smashing success for the Yakima Valley is blessed with 300 days of annual sunshine and enjoys the same latitude as the great wine-producing regions of France. When the Washington wine explosion hit the market, Roskamp Vineyard was at the forefront, with their grapes widely sought after from major wineries. Recently two Roskamp Vineyard wines received national attention: The Co Dinn 2014 Roskamp Vineyard Block Two Syrah, which emotes an intense and distinctive bouquet of dark raspberry, herb and plum, and the premium Co Dinn 2015 Roskamp Vineyard Chardonnay that features a unique delicacy and complexity. Today Washington State is the second largest wine producer in the U.S. Mr. Roskamp was selected as Yakima Valley’s rookie wine grower of the year in 2001 at the age of 78-years-young. Roskamp Vineyard is currently managed by Gay Roskamp, son Michael and his wife, Shari.

Related Articles:
Olympic Peninsula; My Private Seattle; Olympia, Washington; Columbia River Cruise; Lost in the North Cascades; Northern Washington; Samish Island, WA; Eastern Washington

The post Discovering Paradise: Spokane, Pullman & The Palouse appeared first on Traveling Archive.

JOHN BLANCHETTE (February 26, 1946 – March 4, 2014)

In late autumn the rolling hills of the Palouse in Eastern Washington and North Idaho turn to gold as wheat ripens over thousands of acres and giant green combines crawl over the fields like giant locusts harvesting grain.

Rain is scarce in this region and wheat, barley, legumes, especially chickpeas and lentils, respond well to the dry farming.

When irrigated the rich earth will grow most anything and fruit orchards are plentiful, providing pears, plums, cherries, peaches, apples, etc. World-class vineyards take advantage of the terroir and 22 varieties of vegetables, from carrots to tomatoes are commercially farmed along with grass, vegetable and flower seeds.  Berries of all types are a major crop including wild huckleberries, which cannot be cultivated and are also coveted by deer, elk, moose and bears, who freely roam the land with an avian brotherhood that includes wild turkeys, hawks, eagles, ducks and geese.  With so much abundance of flora and fauna, hunting and fishing are popular pastimes along with water sports and white water rafting in this land of 76 lakes and numerous wild rivers.

Spokane is the major city in the region with a population of 210,000 and half a million in the surrounding area, the largest urban hub between Seattle and Minneapolis.

There are over 20 wineries in Spokane, most with tasting rooms, and I indulged at Barrister. The owners are lawyers, accounting for the label. Headquartered in a historic brick building you enter off a back alley, like you might a prohibition-era speakeasy.

There are a number of excellent universities in the Inland Northwest including Gonzaga, Washington State, University of Idaho, Eastern Washington University, Lewis and Clark, North Idaho College, Whitworth, etc.  It is a rural but enlightened community that emphasizes agricultural science and puts its products into the hands of some great chefs, restaurants and specialty food producers whose creations I fully enjoyed as I traveled the Inland Northwest along the corridor of Eastern Washington and the North Idaho panhandle.

Shaped like a little house on the prairie with the panhandle forming its chimney, Idahoans are particular about area names.  It is North Idaho and not northern and Moscow is in Russia (as I was told several times), Mosco(h) is the way they pronounce it in North Idaho.  No matter how you say it, the countryside is rich and abundant and the cities and towns have retained their architectural heritage. Fifty percent of Spokane’s downtown buildings are protected as historic sites.

Over several days I explored the bounty and inviting landscape of the area on a culinary tour of the vineyards, farm stands and restaurants, first driving north from Spokane towards Sandpoint, Idaho, about 80 miles, I then circled south through the lake lands and farms toward Coeur d’Alene (a term applied to the Indian traders by the French for their sharp business skills, literally “heart of an awl”) and then south 70 miles to Moscow, home to the University of Idaho and the Co-Op, the largest grocery store in town and full of all local organically produced products. Traveling west seven miles to Pullman, the city is home to Washington State University and one of my favorite stops, Ferdinand’s Creamery for Cougar Gold cheddar cheese (which comes in a 30 ounce can for $18) and the ice cream parlor, all run by students.

Heading north again 50 miles I finished the loop in Spokane, where I stayed at the historic and some believe haunted, Davenport Hotel and at the Northern Quest Resort and Casino near the airport.

Other hotels included the Coeur d’Alene Resort with spectacular views of the lake, mountains and harbor off the bedroom porch and the University Inn in Moscow, across from the campus.

One of my best dining experiences was in Spokane at Italia Trattoria in the restored Browne’s Addition section of the city. Chef Anna Vogel trained with Tom Douglas in Seattle and her gnocchi is the best I’ve ever had.

In the town of Colbert, Washington I visited Green Bluff Growers and Walters Fruit Ranch, where children can take a wild train ride through the orchards, play with the farm animals or pick their own pumpkin from the patch while adults shop in the farm store, pick their own fruit in the orchards or eat the best apple pie in the Northwest.  Down the road in Post Falls, Idaho is DOMA Coffee Roasting Company, a must stop for a weary traveler.

In Coeur d’Alene I dined al fresco at Settlers Creek farmstead on wood grilled meats, fish and vegetables from local farmers, accompanied by local beer and wine.

In Moscow, Nectar in old town near the University has a talented young chef in Nikki Woodland.

David Blaine, the chef not the magician, although he is magical in the kitchen, prepared our lunch at Latah Bistro in Spokane serving breads made with local wheat.  The farmer who grew the crop also dined with us.

I met a number of farmers on the tour, all tall, knowledgeable and eloquent in the descriptions of their life and work.  Men who love and care for the earth they tend, sow and plow and the crops and animals they harvest for food.

Back in Spokane I had my final meal at Masselows, the elegant restaurant at the Northern Quest Resort and Casino, prepared by chef Robert Rogers.

Wineries visited included Arbor Crest, which offers a panoramic view of Spokane from the vineyard tasting room at Eagle’s Nest estate, former home of inventor Royal Riblet. Trazzi farm, located north of Spokane, specializes in Italian style wines, Bistro Rouge Cafe in Sandpoint has an extensive pizza and salad menu using locally sourced ingredients and the attached Pend d’Oreille Winery makes an extraordinary rosé, blending huckleberry wine and Riesling. Coeur d’ Alene Cellars is located in an industrial park within the city and winemaker Warren Schutz is a master of Rhone varietals.

No-Li Brewhouse in Spokane makes a nice India Pale All and next door is Dry Fly Distilling for Vodka, Gin and Whisky made from local wheat and other grains, if you want a chaser with your beer.

With brochures, wine guides and further information you can successfully conduct your own culinary tour of the Inland Northwest border areas of Eastern Washington State and North Idaho and to discover the fresh, locally sourced meats and produce prepared by farmers and chefs who understand the importance of doing it right when cultivating an evolving food and beverage landscape.

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