Cruising the Columbia River: Guest, Traveling Boy

Guest: Columbia River Cruise

Cruising the Columbia River Aboard American Safari Cruises
Story and photos by Greg Aragon

t took 15 grueling months for explorers Lewis and Clark to reach the Pacific Ocean on their epic Corps of Discovery expedition. The journey, which began in St. Louis in 1804, took them up the Missouri River, over the Rocky Mountains, and down the Snake and Columbia Rivers, to the sea.

It was here, near Astoria, Oregon, that the team celebrated the first American overland expedition to the Pacific Coast. It was also here that my own journey down the Columbia River began.

Led by American Safari Cruises, the eight-day sojourn down the river covered much of the same Pacific Northwest territory that Lewis and Clark investigated 150 years earlier. The only major difference between my trip and that of the historic explorers was that I traveled safely aboard a 105-ft luxurious motor yacht while they traversed unknown dangers, slept on the ground, and relied on canoes with paddles for mobility.

The Safari Spirit prepares for a journey down the Columbia River

My journey began at an old wooden dock in Astoria, where a friend and I first saw our yacht. I say “our yacht” for good reason. With a total of only 8 passengers, the 105-ft. vessel is a private, floating paradise.

And that’s the beauty of American Safari Cruises. The company separates itself from competition by providing an upscale, private approach to cruising aboard actual yachts. Their boats carry between 12 and 36 passengers in plush comfort, with homey lounges, hot tubs, and spacious cabins.

The cozy dining room on the Safari Spirit comfortably
seats 8 people

Once aboard the Safari Spirit, we enjoyed a cocktail reception and met the captain, his four crew members, and our six fellow passengers. We were then shown our stateroom, located on the first deck, about mid-boat. Quaint and efficient, the cabin boasted a large comfy bed, DVD player, big windows, desk area, tub and shower, and best of all, a heated bathroom floor.

That night, as the Spirit cruised along the canyons of the Snake and Clearwater rivers, we joined the others in the dining room for three-cheese tortellini with Dungeness crab, roast beef, mashed potatoes, fresh-baked bread, veggies, and Washington wines.

After dinner we dropped anchor in a secluded cove and were joined by a local historian who told fascinating stories about Lewis and Clark, and the Columbia River, which has become one the country’s most important waterways.

In the morning we visited the Columbia River Maritime Museum. One of the best museum’s of the sea on the West Coast, the facility is highlighted by interactive exhibits on tug boats, lighthouses, the Coast Guard, and the dangers vessels face when crossing between the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean, a deadly confluence known as the “graveyard of the pacific.”

After the museum, the captain docked in Cathlamet Bay in the Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge. We then took a skiff ride down river, during which we saw a bald eagle and cruised past tiny islands and a forest of brown yellow, orange and green trees lining the coast.

passengers from The Safari Spirit on a skiff to tour secluded coves
American Safari boats are equipped with kayaks and skiffs to explore secluded coves

Back onboard I explored our motor-yacht, which was completely rebuilt in 2005. The boat features six staterooms. Four are like my aforementioned cabin and two are upscale Admiral Staterooms on the Library Deck. These feature sliding glass doors, a small balcony, spacious bathrooms with Jacuzzi tubs and showers, office areas, and living rooms.

Aside from the cabins, the salon on the Main Deck is the place to relax, entertain and mingle while aboard the Safari Spirit. This is where guests watch movies, read, mingle and view wildlife and traffic along the river. Next to the salon is an outdoor aft-lounge area with seating and a sports deck to enter the water. This deck also features the captain’s bridge, which is open at anytime to guests who want to drop by and look at the scenery, study sea charts, or chat with crew members on duty.

The next day we cruised into the Bonneville Dam. To reach the dam our vessel entered a massive steel lock, which filled with water, floating us up 74 ft to the higher part of the Columbia River. We docked here and drove to the Bonneville Dam.

the Safari Spirit entering a steel lock to take it to the higher part of the Columbia River near the Bonneville Dam
The massive Bonneville Dam lock on the Columbia River lifts boats 74 feet

At the dam we toured the eight-story hydro-electric powerhouse the runs everything, and also got an underwater view of a salmon ladder. We then drove to a nearby hatchery to meet Herman, a 68 –yr-old, 10-ft-long sturgeon, then to the Columbia Gorge National Scenic Area.

the Bonneville Dam on the Columbia River
Tours of Bonneville Dam are a unique highlight on the Columbia River

Back on board, we enjoyed crusted rockfish and Washington wine for dinner and then cruised into the Dalles Dam and entered a lock with a beautiful big paddle boat beside us.The next morning I sat in the Jacuzzi on the top deck and waved to passing barges and boats. I then walked around charming Walla Walla, Washington. For dinner, we docked in beautiful Richland, Washington and met author Roy Gephardt in the salon, who spoke about Hanford Dam and its nuclear past.

the writer in a Jacuzzi on board the Safari Spirit with the Columbia River in the background
Sitting in a Jacuzzi on deck is a great way to relax on the river

In the morning, we rode a jet boat beneath the towering cliffs of Hell’s Canyon, where we zoomed over rapids, had a picnic lunch, and studied ancient Nez Perce Indian pictographs. This experienced was only equaled by our kayaking excursion down the Palouse River, where we explored hidden caves and islands, and were buzzed by a military jet, which appeared out of nowhere.

the captain and a crewman of the Safari Spirit in front of their yacht
The captain and crew on the Safari Spirit make great friends after a week on the river

American Safari cruises the Columbia River between September and November. For more information on taking an American Safari yacht cruise down the Columbia and Snake Rivers, Hawaii, Mexico, Alaska, or Washington and British Columbia, visit www.amsafari.com or call (888) 862-8881.

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FEEDBACK FOR PATTI

I enjoy your newsletters -and particularly Patti Nickell's article about the 'Pudding Club' in the Cotswold's. An old friend of mine is taking a holiday there this year and plans to try their Jam Roly Poly and Spotted Dick - amongst many!

--- John & Maggie - UK

FEEDBACK FOR JULIO

The way I read this article, you stayed at the "Breeze and Waves". Do you have any pictures of the cottages, and would you recommend to some first time visitors to Caramoan?

--- Richard Simons, Stockton, CA

Hi Richard,

Breeze and Waves was still under construction when I stayed there in Feb. 2010. It should be finished by now. You can see pictures of the resort on this page. We got to stay in one of the small cottages in the picture. I'll recommend it to budget travelers but you might want to look at other options. We chose it because of its location right by the beach. You can try other resorts in the Caramoan town proper (you have to get a ride to get to the beach and the jump-off point to go island-hopping but it's a relatively short distance). There are also two higher end resorts located on a cove and very near the islands: Gota Village Resort (unfortunately there is something wrong with their website right now) and its twin resort Hunongan Cove. Caramoan is a relatively new tourism development so resorts are just now being built.

You can go to this site for a good list of choices for accommodations in Caramoan.

I should add that it might be good to go to Caramoan (and almost anywhere in the Philippines) during the dry season from December to May. June to November are the typhoon months and sometimes typhoons will still come during early December.

Julio

* * * * *

Hi, I'm planning to go to Caramoan this coming May. Would you know the number of Breeze and Waves Cottages? Thanks!

--- Ann, Manila, Philippines

Hi Ann,

Breeze and Waves' phone number is 0908-2911072. Look for Freddie. Hope you have a grand time at Caramoan!

Julio

FEEDBACK FOR WENDY

For Nature's Playground: The South Island of New Zealand

Hi Wendy,

In winter, Heritage Heights Apts. now offers free shuttle service to and from Queenstown 24/7 to guests without cars. We own a 7-passenger 4-wd Toyota Highlander used specifically to taxi guests up and down the hill during winter months. We also run advance purchase winter promotions which include a 4-wd rental.

If any of your readers head over this direction, I will enjoy extending Heritage Heights hospitality!!

Cheers

--- Ailey, Owner, Queenstown, NZ

* * * * *

New Zealand text and pix top drawer! Almost as good as making the trip. ( but one still wants to. . . ) Full of useful detail. Only trouble with the website: It's tough figuring out which feedback goes with which article, and the more there are, the tougher it gets!

--- Ken W., Camarillo CA

Thanks Ken..."álmost" is right, you really have to experience the South Island firsthand. Granted this piece is long, but still all I can think about is how much I left out! I agree abut the relevancy factor re the feedback--it can be confusing...sometimes I have a "Wait a minute...what?" moment myself.

Thanks for writing,

Wendy

* * * * *

Okay Wendy, from now on whenever you book your travel, please reserve space for me. I will carry your luggage, bring you cold drinks, massage your shoulders, and change the film in your camera (oops, I guess you don't have to do that anymore). Wonderful ideas and recommendations. Can you get to New Zealand from Boston in less than a week?

--- Carl A., South Easton, MA

Ha ha ha Carl, you're quite the comedian! But you'd be surprised how short that flight feels. I suspect Qantas isn't the only airline who's figured out that 3 movies, 2 full meals, lots of snacks and a complimentary travel pack (eye mask, warm socks and neck pillow) equals a quiet, well-behaved cabin. It really isn't bad. Just fly direct--pick the shortest flight w/ no lengthy layovers and you'll be fine. Re: signing on as my Super Sherpa...why not? I think you know I seldom travel in anything less than Party mode. There's just that pesky background check...

Thanks for writing,

Wendy

For Excellence Riviera Cancun:

Wendy, I truly enjoyed your info especially since we leave in a week to celebrate my 50th Birthday. Was it necessary to make reservations at the restaurants? Was there a dress code for the restaurants? What would you recommend not missing while there? Was the spa experience worth it? Did you travel away from the resort while there? Thanks,

--- Kim P. Fuquay, Varina, NC

Hi Kim.

Sorry for the delay in responding...you had heavy competition with the holidays. Reservations at Excellence restaurants are not necessary and you will not find a wait. The dress code is basically no bathing suits and flip-flops...with a decided a mix of atmospheres. Mostly the open-air beachside spots are super casual, the rest slightly more formal. Truly, as long as you are clothed, I don't think you'd be turned away anywhere, though most people seemed to enjoy dressing up at night...I suspect more for their own pleasure than any sense of decorum.

The spa experience was worth it, though my favorite part wasn't the actual massage. The precursor was a 45 min. or so rotation from sauna to a series of (kind of wild) water jets which was very different and very cool, not just for women. In its' entirety, and with the serenity of the beach/champagne/strawberries, it was memorable.

We did not travel away from the hotel this trip, but the hotel is very helpful in arranging day excursions to fit your desires and you do not have to book these until you arrive.

Have a great time!

--- Wendy

FEEDBACK FOR NINO

I enjoyed Nino's contribution, since we all read about the frightening terrorist attack. Having travelled somewhat through India years ago, I am continually impressed with this country and the gentle spiritual aspects of this nation. Some day I look forward to going back. Nino has encouraged me. Thank you!

--- Yoka Y., Westlake Village, CA

FEEDBACK FOR RUSH & CHUCK

Dear Mr.s/counselors Brown and Koro,

Thank you for a very informed and succinct article on motorcycle accidents and the law. It inspired me to think about getting a motorcycle, but not have an accident. But, if I do I am now well informed with the basics of what to do providing I do not perish in the accident. Any tips about that too?

--- Unnamed

Dear Rush and Chuck,

I wish I had read your article before our camping trip the Friday prior to President's Day.

My wife and I were in a car accident on our way to a camp ground. We were "rear-ended" and the impact caused our car to crash into the car in front of us. The contents of the truck that we were riding scattered onto several lanes. It's a miracle our two dogs decided to stay inside the car. My wife and I were shaken up badly but despite the mess, I was still able to walk out of the car. I got the license plate of the driver in front of me but, to my surprise, after reviewing the little damage on his car, he then sped off. I didn't know you could do that! The driver who hit me from behind gave me his information and then he too left the scene without saying good 'bye. When the police arrived all I had to go by was the little information I had jotted down which I hope was truthful. What if it was bogus? What if I had written the plate number incorrectly? How would that affect my insurance? What if we were unconscious, who would have written down all that information?

I do have one suggestion if you are injured in an accident. The police asked if my wife wanted an ambulance to bring her to the hospital but we declined the offer. I remembered when I rode an ambulance years ago that it was not a comfortable ride. I was strapped to the stretcher and there were all sorts of medical equipment dangling noisily above me. As long as you are able, it is a more relaxful ride inside a car. Besides, isn't there a fee for ambulance service?

--- Dave S. of Pasadena, CA