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Ed Boitano: Alaska's Interior
Mount McKinley with pond in the foreground, Denali National Park, Alaska
This is why you come to Alaska. Courtesy Chris Arend Photography/Denali Park Resorts.

Alaska's Mighty Interior
America’s Last Frontier

By Ed Boitano

had just put my head on the hotel room pillow. The day had been a fun – but it was also long and taxing, and a good night’s sleep was in order. Suddenly, the riveting sound of something as bad as bulldozer burst into the room. I looked at my hotel clock – it was 1 AM. I bolted out of bed, charged to the hotel window and pulled open the curtain. Across the river, there was man operating, well, a bulldozer. His family must love this, I thought. Upon closer inspection I could see he was actually surrounded by his family. His wife and young children almost looked like they were going to picnic later after the chore. I forgot to mention that the time and place was the month of June in Fairbanks, Alaska. The midnight sun was so blinding that I had to squint my eyes to see. Now I know how Al Pacino felt in "Insomnia."

a closer view of Mount McKinley, Denali National Park
Everything about Denali National Park is BIG.
Courtesy Chris Arend Photography/Denali Park Resorts.

Alyeska - The Great Land
A colleague in the cruise industry once said to me, ‘First you do all the other cruises, then you do Alaska.’ She was right. With its pristine fjords, sweeping glaciers and endless snowcapped mountains, Alaska’s Inside Passage is a tough act to follow.

snowcapped mountains in Alaska viewed from a cruise ship
Courtesy Deb Roskamp

So what to do after having done the cruise - two, three or even four times - particularly when the cruise experience only wets your appetite for more Alaskan wonders? Well, an exploration of the state’s interior seems definitely in order. With over 3,000 rivers and more than 5,000 glaciers, the state is one-fifth the size of the continental United States and two-and-one-half times the size of Texas. Vast expanses of wilderness encompass Alaska, with millions of acres of national parkland and wildlife refuges, much of which is accessible only by boat, train or plane. Where, then, does one begin to explore this vastness?

tourists on a deck of a cruise ship passing an ice floe in the background
Courtesy Deb Roskamp

Fortunately, many cruise companies now offer extended land packages that are fully escorted, giving one a comprehensive overview of some of Alaska’s amazing sights. My pick was Royal Caribbean International's inland options to its Alaskan cruises from Vancouver, B.C., to Seward. I opted for RCL's four-day trek from Fairbanks to Anchorage. Covering over 400 miles, through stunning mountains and untouched wilderness, I found it the ideal way to explore what the Aleuts call ALYESKA – THE GREAT LAND.

signboard at the Wedgewood Wildlife Sanctuary Observation Deck, Fairbanks, Alaska
Wedgewood Wildlife Sanctuary Observation Deck in Fairbanks.
Courtesy Alaska Tour & Travel

Fairbanks
Located 120 miles south of the Arctic Circle; Fairbanks was established in 1902 as a gold-rush town. Today it is the bustling capital of the north and has the distinction of having the widest temperature swings in the US. Temperatures may fall to 65 degrees below zero in winter, and regularly hit 80 degrees above in summer. I was glad I had selected the month of June to visit, when the weather is moderate and there are over 21 hours of sunlight in a day. Locals relish the midnight sun, and even have midnight softball leagues.

Traveling by Royal Caribbean’s plush motor coach one enjoys a scenic city tour of Fairbanks, followed by a stop at a historic gold mining location, where you get to do a little panning yourself (and keep your finds).

tourists stopping by to observe huge oil pipes of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline
Courtesy Deb Roskamp

Later, the coach swings by for a look at the mammoth Trans-Alaska Pipeline – a true marvel of ingenuity.


Courtesy Deb Roskamp

A cruise on the Tanana, the largest glacier-fed river in the world, then a "wedding of the waters," where the Chena and Tanana Rivers meet, came next. From the deck of the 156 feet long Riverboat Discovery Sternwheeler, you will see working Alaskan villages and uniquely built homes, designed to withstand the brutal winters. The river cruise also includes a stop at an Athabascan Indian Village, where locals demonstrate traditional hide tanning, beading, fishing and dog sledding techniques. You quickly learn that a strong bond between man and dog is essential in order to survive during the long harsh winters. Survival, it seems, is the word that dominates the thoughts of people who live in the interior.

the writer posing in front of a native hut at an Athabascan Indian village
The stop at the Athabascan Indian village allows time for tourists to do their share of mugging for the camera. Courtesy Deb Roskamp.

The Wilderness Experience
The next morning it’s all aboard the Wilderness Express traincar for a ride to Denali National Park. There is no better way to view the magnificence of the Alaskan scenery than from the comfort of this luxurious glass-domed traincar.

aa tour guide briefs visitors on board a glass-domed Wilderness Express traincar to Denali National Park
Courtesy Deb Roskamp

caribou on a lake with Mt. McKinley in the background, Denali National Park
Denali National Park lies approximately 240 miles north of Anchorage and 125 miles south of Fairbanks. Courtesy Alaska Tour & Travel

For five hours you travel deep into the Alaskan landscape, much of it accessible only by train. A highpoint is a visit to the white tablecloth-clad dining room for regional delights such as venison sausage, caribou stew, and fresh halibut and salmon.

Denali National Park
Denali National Park and Preserve is 6 million acres in size. Larger than the state of Massachusetts, it is one of the world's last great frontiers for wilderness adventure. Established as a national park in 1917, it remains largely wild and unspoiled, just as the native people knew it. At 20,320 feet, Mount McKinley is the highest mountain in North America and the centerpiece of the park. Named for President William McKinley, it is still called Denali by the Athabascans.

Dwarf Fireweeds with the mountains of Denali in the background
Dwarf Fireweed in the mountains of Denali. Courtesy Arwen Edsall,
Alaska Tour & Travel.
young Dall sheep
You also see Dall sheep, caribou, moose, and, if you’re lucky, grizzly bears.
Courtesy Alaska Tour & Travel.

The next day, you board the bus for the seven-hour Tundra Wilderness Tour into the park. Renowned for its tundra - dwarfed trees and miniaturized wildflowers that have adapted to a short growing season - more then 650 species of flowering plants are on display. Only plants adapted to long, bitterly cold winters can survive in this sub arctic wilderness.

Your afternoon and evening are free to enjoy the amenities of your lodge and local grounds. Denali National Preserve allows subsistence uses and also allows sport hunting, trapping, and fishing under Alaska Fish and Game regulations. There are two such preserve areas.

The Wilderness Express to Talkeetna
In the morning, it’s back on the Wilderness Express for a journey to the 1920s gold rush town of Talkeetna. The inspiration for the television show "Northern Exposure," this is a true slice of Alaska, with its rugged charm, colorful locals and climbers preparing to scale McKinley. It’s also the ideal venue for fishing, nature and float tours, white water rafting, and jet boat tours.

aerial view of snow-capped mountains of Denali
Denali from the sky. Courtesy Deb Roskamp.

Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge
Accommodations are in the very upscale Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge, which features direct views of McKinley (weather permitting). Courtesy Alaska Tour & Travel

The one activity, though, that should be on everyone’s list, is a helicopter tour over the park. Though not inexpensive, it is worth every penny, and is something everyone should experience at least once in his or her lifetime. To have such a heaven’s view of the majesty and scale of the park, it is as if you were there at the moment of creation.

Anchorage
The following day it’s onto the bus for Anchorage, where your Royal Caribbean Adventure Specialist will greet you as you transfer to your Anchorage hotel. Make sure you plan your time carefully in Anchorage. This capital city boasts all the urban pleasures of fine dining, shopping, nightlife, arts, and world-class museums. There's a lot see and do in 24 hours.

left: the Anchorage downtown skyline; right: the Alaska National Heritage Center in Anchorage
Left: Almost half of Alaska’s 600,000 residents live in Anchorage; Right: The Alaska Native Heritage Center is located only 10 minutes from downtown Anchorage. Courtesy Alaska Tour & Travel

Not to be missed is the Alaska Native Heritage Center, which details the arts, customs and lifestyles of the eleven indigenous native cultures found in Alaska. This twenty-six acre wooded site, with exceptional displays and demonstrations, provides fascinating insight into Alaska’s amazing past.

Related Articles:
Sitka, Alaska; To Alaska by Rail; Alaska: Small Ship Cruise; Return to Alaska; Tongass National Forest, Alaska; Seward Scenic Highway, Alaska


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Let Ed know what you think about his traveling adventure.

* * * * *

Feedback for "Spokane, Pullman and the Palouse"

Loved the Spokane article – my mom was born there and my grandparents are interred there. Haven't been back in decades.

--- Nancy, Hawaii

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Feedback for "Norway's Fjords"

Hi Ed. I was just reading your great story about traveling through the Norwegian countryside and the voyage along the coast - sounds amazing. I’ve been to Oslo, but definitely would like to return to Norway one day to explore exactly what you wrote about.

Cheers,

--- Sasha H.

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Feedback for "In Search of Movie Locations In the Land of Aloha"

Mahalo for your article on Hawaii film locations. You should check out our new "The Hawaii Movie and Television Book" at: http://hawaiimtvbook.weebly.com/

--- Ed Rampell (Co-Author), Los Angeles, CA

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Hi! This is my first visit to your blog! We are a collection of volunteers and starting a new initiative in a community in the same niche. Your blog provided us useful information to work on. You have done a wonderful job!

--- Christian Louboutin, U.K.

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Cool site.

--- Donna Namaste', San Francisco, CA

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Great work as always.

--- S. Wyatt, Seattle, WA

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Hr. (Danish for sir) Ed,

Thanks so much for your article on Copenhagen, DK...loved it! Very well done actually I used to live in Christianshavn (just next to Christania) and Danish is my second language.

You really did a quite grand job and pulled me ALL of the way into your analogy and experience from my other home.

Just one detail that I thought might have been included.....the bakeries & cheese shops in the mornings in nearly every 5 or so blocks as they waft the incredible hypnotizing aromas of those amazing Danish specialties.

I most especially and absolutely love the fact that you included the "hyggeligt" element...wonderful!!

Another aspect of the Danish language that I have found interesting is that we only cuss to devil rather than the more typically religious icons and that love (elsker) is only very rarely used.

All-in-all you have me totally on your team and I will always look forward to your future writing.

Med venlig hilsen...(with kind regards).

--- Breeze

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Hi Ed,

Thank you for your article on the Cherokee Nation. I really appreciate the historical perspective and recognition of their contribution to American culture.

--- Nora Weber, British Columbia

* * * *

Another cool issue. You da' man. One question: Is that Mark Lindsay on the front page?

--- Brent, Seattle, WA

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This would be a fascinating place to visit. There is so much history within our reach that we don't often acknowledge in more than a token way. I am wondering if any individual or group has ever gone on a vision quest, or perhaps a memorial march, by retracing the path of the Trail of Tears? This would be a painful journey, for most, I imagine.

--- Sandra, Seattle, WA

Osiyo! From Cherokee Nation Cultural Tourism: What a great description of Kauai! The pictures are awesome and I loved reading your travel report! Keep pushin' on!

--- Lisa Long, Tulsa, OK

* * * *

I'm getting hungry again just reading your article! It's hot today and I could really use a shave ice right now.

Hope you're having a great day!

--- Melissa, Honolulu, HI

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Thanks so much for sharing! Wow. The beauty even from the few pictures here and your descriptions is breathtaking... I can't even imagine being there for real! The food looks and sounds exquisite, I'm not sure my kind of exquisite, but I do like to be adventurous on occasion :).Quite the story there.

--- Emily, Boise, ID

Great pictures!

--- Anna Harrison, Palmdale, CA

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Tough job, Ed! Thanks for sharing.

--- Brenda Hughes, Richland, WA

Ed, Tim from the team of Jack and Tim - Star Clipper. Great trip. Always enjoy your postings.

--- Tim & Jack, Washington DC

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Hi Ed,

I really enjoyed your story on the Empress of the North. I was an Assistant Cruise Director aboard her in 2004, and you gave me a treasured walk down memory lane with her.You might know this, but if not .... you can cruise the Columbia again late this summer and early fall. The Empress' sister boat, the Queen of the West, was purchased by American Cruise lines and will offer a Columbia River itinerary which almost mirrors the one my Empress used to travel. Just thought you'd like to know.

--- Paul Penta, 2004 Assistant Cruise Director, Empress of the North, Copperas Cove, TX

Ed, you are by far the most interesting of all the Boitanos. Your coverage is extensive and captivating. It's a real treat to read your blogs. Your article on the Baltic Sea Nations is no exception. But don't get me wrong, the other Boitanos have their own charm and perspective. Thanks for all your articles. I can see it's a work of art. I just now noticed your Dog Quotes --- what a great collection! Keep up the good work. Keep on sharing your travels! This is better than the more popular travelogues.

--- Peter Paul, South Pasadena, CA

Hi Ed,

How's life? Hope all's well in sunny Cal.

Having just received the latest issue of the Traveling Boy newsletter I popped back over to your site to take a look around and came across this article which I had not previously read: www.travelingboy.com/archive-travel-ed-baltic.html

Loved it! First of all, this is a part of the world that I absolutely adore so reading about it is always a pleasure. Secondly, I'm happy to see you crossing things off your Buck with such gusto! Myself, I have already been to Stockholm, Helsinki and Copenhagen, and Tallinn, St. Petersburg and Moscow are all on my Buck. After reading through the article I reminded once again why!

One of my favourite lines in the piece is:

"Granted, eight to twenty-fours in world-class cities like Helsinki and Tallinn hardly does them justice, but a sketch is always better than a blank canvas."

So very true. I'll take a sketch over a blank canvas any day! Besides, sketches often lead to full-blown paintings anyway.

Just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed this story. Hope there are many more fun adventures awaiting you soon!

Cheers,

--- Ashley, Toronto

Thanks for a great trip, Ed - such a comfortable way to travel, particularly to several cities i knew very little about. I've had only one sea voyage - crossed to G.B. on the United States in the early 60s - no balconies, etc. on that ship, as she was prepared to be stripped down to carry troops in event of WWIII, but still luxurious in her own way.

Bumped into a documentary recently on PBS re the old lady who is now docked in Philadelphia, I believe with peeling paint on her sides and funnels and of course the interior stripped and auctioned off of everything...periodic moves to rehabilitate her, but so costly people back off. She was the largest and fastest - still is. Her record was 3 days crossing - we did it in a little over 5 (cruise speed I guess!). They showed regular passengers like the Duke and Duchess of Windsor who happened to be on board when I was, as well as gazillions of stars who traveled on her. Charles Boyer was the only one on my crossing - we were alone in the library one time, but I didn't say anything. He looked immersed in his pursuit of a book. The Windsors were tiny little people, as was M. Boyer (and this comment from a 5'2" observer!). How's that for an ancient history lesson? Anyhow seeing the ship like she is now made me almost teary - surprised myself somehow.

--- Brenda Hughes, Richland, WA

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I loved this article!! Kept me in rapt attention, felt like I explored part of the world myself ;) nice way to start my day, sounds altogether amazing and unforgettable!

--- Emily, Boise, ID

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Great writing!! Reading, education and fabulous locations! All around WOWS!

--- E Dava, Burbank, CA

What a wonderful assortment of travel destinations. I have always been drawn to islands, and as a Pacific Northwesterner, dream from time to time about settling in the San Juans someday (like a lot of us here visualize for ourselves). Hopefully, travel will occur before this particular dream comes to pass. I enjoy reading about the connections you have with the places you write about. I will visit that fishing village in Norway, someday, just because of the photograph. Who wouldn't, after seeing it. Thanks, Ed

--- Sandee, Seattle, WA

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Another great edition!

--- CG, Central California Coast

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Hi Ed,

I sailed into Sooke on my way to port Ludlow from Portland, Oregon in my sailboat few years back. It was interesting port. The entry is snake like channel with local fisherman's local markers only to guide you into the port.

--- Larry, Portland, OR

Wow. I want to go to Vietnam! It's beautiful! Those are amazing pictures!

--- Archie, Pasadena, CA

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Kudos to Mark Twain. He knows how to honor a dog, and kudos to Cedric for all he was and still is and kudos to you for another edition of www.traveling boy.com. Peace and Love,

--- Joel, Pasadena, CA

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Ed, I really enjoy your traveling adventures. Your stories are so well written and the photographs are amazing. Thank you for letting us in on your adventures. You bring the adventure to those of us who aren't able to go. Thank you.

--- Cheryl, Pismo Beach, CA

Amazing story and pictures. To think that 40 years ago we were all terrified at the prospect of going there... what a difference a few decades makes. Fantastic article!

--- Roger, Puyallup, WA

Thanks for your expert insight, Jeremy. Have you ever lived in New York? Don't tell me you are one of those tourists or former transplants. It's a very different experience when one lives here. Unlike Los Angeles, there really is a sense of community. New Yorkers love and care about their city... and, yes, their neighbors too.

--- Lisa - New York, NY

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NY sucks. It's now nothing more than a Disneyland version of its former glory. It city filled with tourists and transplants, and no longer the center of the universe. The WEST is the best. Everyone is moivng to the Coast. Even NY fashion designers check out the LA street scene before launching their new designs. Plus no one in NY knows real pizza. Take a trip to Naples sometime and try the real thing.

--- Jeremy - Los Angeles, CA

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The economic boom is what drove all the changes in New York. The mayors were in the right place at the right time, and to their credit, handled things well. It's easier to clean up the city and cut crime when you have more money to spend. The economic outlook for New York is bleak now with unemployment going up. Bloomberg already is short money and will be cutting services across the board. If things don't turn around, people may not be as friendly in a few years.The idea that New Yorkers are not nice is just a myth; people in L.A. are much more distant and shut-off.

--- Michael, Native New Yorker

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I think that overall, Manhattan has become friendlier in the last few years, not sure why but don't think Giuliani or Dinkins can take credit. There was definitely a surge of NYC solidarity following 9/11, and Giuliani was extremely popular during that period. When he supported Bush so strongly in the election that followed, his popularity plummeted, though. Bloomberg has definitely done a good job with making a lot of bike lanes, blocking off large areas of what was previously street and putting tables and chairs for pedestrian use. Not sure how this economic downturn will affect local attitudes, though....

--- Sue, New York

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This is the best. Keep them coming.--- Paul Ash

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Ed, thanks for putting the Holland button on your site.

By the way, your images really work! I opened the newsletter and was immediately tempted to click on an article. Love it. And also love the fact I can click on images in the articles to enlarge them. The short headline on the image makes me curious. Well done.

--- Bianca Helderman

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Thanks Ed, for this delightful view of this wondrous city! The first time I traveled with a husband to NYC years ago, it was for an Orchestral Conductor's conference. We lived in Newfoundland at that time, so you can imagine my shock of coming from isolation to the big apple!My heart began beating as I looked out of my hotel window at the figures of humans below, scurrying like ants, I was up so high. It wasn't the height, rather, the invisible buzz, that urgently beckoned me to go outside! But when I reached the sidewalk, the rush of pedestrians made me wonder "where's the party?" Friendly? Yes! I lived in NYC for 5 years with a later husband and loved every minute! Being an artist, I could not relax enough to paint, so I took up acting and worked with "Children In Need" a charity, instead and partook of everything NY had to offer from opera and Off Broadway plays and such to ballet and wholistic healings....a city full of everything one could imagine! I truly love NYC and years later am grateful to live in a quieter area of California so I may relax and paint and do my healing work...going back only to visit my delightful haunts. There is nothing like NYC!.

--- Yoka, Westlake Village, CA

Ed,

Great issue. Well done. They keep getting better! --- Grace Conlee Micetich, San Diego, CA

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I loved all of the traveling news! It’s good to know you are still out there in the world. --- Judy Vincent

Ed,

Thanks for getting me back on the Traveling Boy newsletter mailing list- I have missed it!

I do believe we need contributions of the ‘road less traveled’ in the US for those of us whose feet never leave the ground… Ahhhh… the Badlands... Two Medicine in Glacier… the Lava tubes in central Oregon… my next destination wish: Monument Valley.

--- Lorrie Sjoquist

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The photos and descriptions of this trip are wonderful. I love the idea of the slowed down pace of the train. Kind of a throwback to the "good old days." --- Larry Lombard, Puyallup, WA

I think you outdid yourself with the "Two Cities" article. I'm ashamed to admit that I knew so little about these two cities. I learned so much. Your article was jampacked with very interesting trivia. Surprised the Jazz greats and Walt Disney came from practically the same area. And those pictures --- especially the WWI museum --- what an incredible shot --- almost like out of somebody's Satyricon dream. Bravo!

--- Rod, Glendale, CA

What a great article! --- Michelle, Torrance, California

Ed,

The photos are spectacular. I can envision many a romantic novel inspired by these majestic sceneries. Makes me want to do a little more research on Norway. John Lenon must have been one of the converts when he wrote "Norwegian Woods."
--- Peter Paul, South Pasadena CA

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Peter,

Thanks for the kind words and taking the time to write. Indeed, Norway was paradise on earth, and I dream of returning again and again. You had a funny line about John Lennon being so inspired by the beauty of Norway that he composed the song, "Norwegian Wood." If I'm not mistaken, his reference to "Norwegian Wood" is just that: an inexpensive pine wood from Norway that was becoming popular in the UK. I did read somewhere, though, that "I Want to Hold Your Hand" was inspired by Norwegian fjord trek.

Thanks again… and please keep writing.

Ed

Ed,

Reading Peter's implication that "Norwegian Wood" was based on a trip that John Lennon took to Norway led me to do some research.

According to Paul McCartney at a press conference in Los Angeles: 'Peter Asher [brother of McCartney's then-girlfriend Jane Asher] had just done his room out in wood, and a lot of people were decorating their places in wood. Norwegian wood. It was pine, really, just cheap pine. But it's not as good a title, is it, "Cheap Pine"? It was a little parody, really, on those kind of girls who, when you'd get back to their flat, there would be a lot of Norwegian wood. It was completely imaginary from my point of view, but not from John's. It was based on an affair he had. She made him sleep in the bath and then, finally, in the last verse, I had this idea to set the Norwegian wood on fire as a revenge. She led him on and said, "You'd better sleep in the bath." And in our world, that meant the guy having some sort of revenge, so it meant burning the place down....'

Of course, just cause it's on the 'net doesn't mean it's true.

--- Jeff M, Tacoma, WA

Weird piece on Copenhagen (Cosy in Copenhaggen). Do you think now that Keefer’s in the slammer in Glendale for DWI he’s experiencing any hygge? I bet some of those jailbirds would like to see how touch he is.

--- Adam S., Glendale CA

I loved your intro and the way you set up the article. It immediately set the tone of an action-paced adventure. I imagined Annette as a spy in a trenchcoat feeding you top secret information. I'm surprised you didn't get lost. Do they speak English over there? Are the street signs in English? Does a GPS work over there?

I never heard of "hygge" but, like you, I think I've felt that sensation everytime the cold wind blows here in South Pasadena, CA. When I sit beside a warm fire, sipping my hot chocolate, I will remember this article. Thanks!

--- Peter Paul, South Pasadena, CA


Stay tuned.


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