Search: Advanced | Preference
Traveling Boy means the travel adventures of the Traveiling Boitanos
Travel adventures of Eric Anderson Boitano
Travel adventures of John Clayton
Travel adventures of Deb Roskamp
Travel adventures of Fyllis Hockman
Travel adventures of Brom Wikstrom
Travel adventures of Jim Friend
Travel adventures of Timothy Mattox
Travel adventures of Corinna Lothar
Travel adventures of Roger Fallihee
Travel adventures of Tamara Lelie
Travel adventures of Beverly Cohn
Travel adventures of Raoul Pascual
Travel adventures of Ringo Boitano
Travel adventures of Herb Chase
Travel adventures of Terry Cassel
Travel adventures of Dette Pascual
Travel adventures of Gary Singh
Travel adventures of John Blanchette
Travel adventures of Tom Weber
Travel adventures of James Thomas
Travel adventures of Richard Carroll
Travel adventures of Richard Frisbie
Travel adventures of Masada Siegel
Travel adventures of Greg Aragon
Travel adventures of Skip Kaltenheuser
Travel adventures of Ruth J. Katz
Travel adventures of Traveling Boy's guest contributors

Colorado ad


About Richard   write me    Feeds provide updated website content        

Richard Frisbie: Consuegra's Saffron Festival
Consuegra's
Rose of Saffron Festival

Story by Richard Frisbie

saffron flowers





any Mediterranean cuisines use the delicious and colorful seasoning known as saffron in their regional recipes. The bright red-orange threads of saffron are the dried stigmas, or female portion, of the flower of Crocus sativus, the autumn flowering, or saffron crocus. Each bulb can produce several flowers, while each flower produces just 3 stigmas.

Saffron is commercially produced in many places in the world, but most chefs prefer the superior quality saffron grown in central Spain. There, it takes more than 100,000 flowers to produce a pound of saffron. Since only a few strands, or about 1/8 tsp are used for an average recipe, saffron is available retail in fractions of an ounce, not pounds.

small bottle of saffron from central Spain

The red, highly aromatic saffron of "Castilla y la Mancha" is the only one in the world with its own appellation, or DO, (Dominacione de Origen) assuring it is the true Manchegan saffron. On a recent tour of the growing fields in the town of Consuegra, I paid 3.5 euros ($5) for 1gram directly from the grower, Jesus Moreno. (1 g equals .035 oz) It was beautifully packaged in a fancy, wax-sealed bottle, perfect for gifting.

harvesting saffron on a mid-morning sunny day, central Spain

The best time to harvest saffron is in mid-morning on a sunny day, when the flowers just open and are still fresh. The morning I was there it was overcast, with patches of rain alternating with brief and elusive patches of sunshine. Just as I got to the fields it cleared and the sun came blazing out. The crocus flowers, tightly closed in purple buds, were slowly opening as Jesus and his wife Jaqu, bent at the waist, inched down the plant rows harvesting saffron. They plucked the whole flower, leaving barren fields in their wake as they slowly filled their baskets.

Each day an established field will send up new flowers where yesterdays were picked, and the process begins again. The whole back breaking harvest is completed within 2-3 weeks. Then the stigmas are separated from the flower and dried before packaging for retail and wholesale distribution. When the saffron finally reaches your kitchen it needs to be steeped in a bit of warm cooking liquid for 20 minutes or so before being incorporated, liquid and all, into your recipe. The longer it cooks the more flavor is extracted, so it is added early in the cooking process.

close-up of purple saffron crocus flowers on a field

Saffron also adds color, similar to turmeric, which is sometimes recommended as an inexpensive alternative. Don't do it! The intense flavor of saffron, which some describe as slightly bitter, some sweet as honey, and some as redolent of the sea, cannot be duplicated by tumeric. A recipe without saffron lacks the one ingredient that pulls all the other flavors together. Use no substitute.

medieval castle once the stronghold of the Knights of San Juan with windmills in the background, Consuegra

The Town of Consuegra is also famous for its windmills. Seven of them ride the crest of the ridge that rises above the town, surrounding the medieval castle that was once the stronghold of the Knights of San Juan. Each of the mills is named, with one called Sancho, after Don Quixote's sidekick. These are the best preserved windmills of Spain, dating back to the time of Cervante's famous novel, and thus find themselves on the modern Ruta de Quixote created by Spain's Paradores chain of Hotels. It was while following that route that I found myself in Consuegra.

Consuegra is an agricultural community, with a centuries-long history of growing wheat. That's why there are so many windmills. They were used to grind the grain. Today the fully operational mills are only used ceremoniously during the harvest festival known as "Festival de la Rosa del Azafrán" or Rose of Saffron.

windmills on the Ruta de Quixote, Consuegra

The windmills are the original "green" machines. The ancient wooden cogs and wheels are turned by the wind moving the exterior sails. They, in turn, rotate the millstones that grind the grain, which is manually carried up the winding staircase on the back of the miller. He pours it into the top of the mill to work its way down, ground, as flour. It's a centuries old design that still works today. After the grain is ground into flour it is sold in small bags to commemorate the Rose of Saffron Festival.

an event at the Rose of Saffron Festival, Consuegra

the culinary competition at the Rose of Saffron Festival, Consuegra

Traditionally, when the people of Consuegra finished the harvests, the festival began. In modern times that translates to the last weekend of October. It is a quaint, folkloric festival where the connection to Don Quiote is strong. The windmill called "Sancho" is used to grind the wheat, and a local beauty is crowned "Dulcinea", the name of Quixote's girlfriend. There is a contest in the village square where the fastest hands compete to remove the saffron threads from the flowers, and everyone participates wearing the traditional clothes of their village. There is also a procession of the masked "Gigantes y Cabezudos" ("giants and big-heads"), but the highlight of the festival is the culinary competition. This is when the townsfolk prepare their best recipes using saffron. The whole community turns out to taste them.

It was fun to be there for the food and the festivities, but it was most important to be in the fields watching the harvesting process, and being able to purchase some certified Manchegan saffron to create my own gastronomic feast when I got home - paella!

a plate of paella

The making of Paella - http://food.gather.com/viewArticle.action?articleId=281474977152183

I NEED SPAIN: http://www.tourspain.es

The official Paradores Don Quixote route: http://tinyurl.com/rutadequixote

Air Europa – http://www.aireuropa.com

Related Articles:
Alcala, Spain; La Mancha: The Land of Don Quixote and Caballeros; Madrid Tapas; Memories of Madrid; Madrid and the Art of Armor; Tossa de Mar, Spain; Valencia, Spain; Galicia, Spain


Name: Required
E-mail: Required
City: Required
Feedback:
 

Let Richard know what you think about his traveling adventure.

* * * * *

Hey Richard - another winning series of words, all put together in your usual brilliant, and very creative format. And hey, love those glorious photos - Wow, what scenery - looks like some sort of paradise. What a super life you lead!!!

--- John Clayton, Palos Verdes CA

* * * *

I want to go there!!!!!!! Mmmmm! Yes! Love the photos and your article, Richard! Have read the book, seen the play several times and now dream of seeing these historic places. I've been wanting to go to Spain for some time. Now at 12:30 a.m. I'm heading off to bed with songs from Man of La Mancha ringing in my mind. Thanks!

--- Betsy Tuel, Rosendale, NY

* * * *

You are fortunate to have Richard on your staff. Richard is a fantastic writer and a wonderful person. Congratulations to Richard and to you.

--- Denise Dubé, New England


Ed Boitano's travel blog/review
Three Musical Pilgrimages: Mozart, Grieg and Hendrix

Troldhaugen Villa in Bergen, Norway
Johann Chrysostom Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756 - 1791) could read and compose music, plus play the violin and piano, when he was five years old. Born into a musical family in Salzburg, Austria (then the Holy Roman Empire), he had a unique ability for imitating music, which first became evident when he recited a musical piece by simply observing his father conducting a lesson to his older sister. This led to a childhood on the road, where the young prodigy performed before many of the royal courts of Europe.

Go There

Tom Weber's travel blog/review
Treasures of Ireland: The Irish Goodbye (Dispatch #20)

Irish sunset

The Palladian Traveler brings to a close his 20-part series on the Emerald Isle from an upscale restaurant in downtown Dublin where he files his final dispatch and then quietly slips away.

Go There

John Clayton's travel blog/review
Two "MUST SEE" Truly Spectacular Places in Europe. Here's Why.

Culzean Castle, Scotland
The Han Grotto and Culzean Castle. As the name of my Traveling Boy feature is "Travel With a Difference," it's important to me to always bring you offbeat and unusual tourist places around the world you may not know about. These two fit that category to a T, and they're absolutely worth a visit. One's in Scotland and one's in Belgium. Culzean (pronounced CULLANE) Castle is located near Maybole, Carrick, on the Ayrshire coast of Scotland.

go there

Ringo Boitano's travel blog/review
Highway 49 Revisited: Exploring California's Gold Country

aurora borealis lights up the night sky near Fairbanks
In the 1840s, the population of California was only 14,000, but by 1850 more than 100,000 settlers and adventurers had arrived from all over the world – and they came for one reason: gold. James Marshall had discovered the first gold nugget at Sutter’s Mill in El Dorado County, creating the largest gold rush in history.

go there

Eric Anderson's travel blog/review
Lake Charles’ Family-Size Low-Key Mardi Gras

dressed-up for the Mardi Gras
The Southwest Louisiana Mardi Gras in Lake Charles, the second largest in Louisiana, does not need parents there to avert their children’s eyes. This is family entertainment and children are very much part of it. The main office of the Lake Charles CVB has costumes from last year’s Mardi Gras but it also has figures to fascinate little ones from country boys fishing for their dinner to alligators who have already fed and are rubbing their stomachs.

go there

Fyllis Hockman's travel blog/review
Puerto Vallarta: Magic and Mayhem on the Malecon

Cedar Hill, Washington DC
So I heard that you could spend from dawn to dusk on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico and never get bored and I thought, "Okay, I'm up for that challenge." Well, maybe not the dawn part – I'm not a morning person – so I had no problem leaving those early hours to the joggers and those seeking an early start to catch their red snapper for dinner.

Go There


© TravelingBoy.com. All Rights Reserved. 2015.
This site is designed and maintained by WYNK Marketing. Send all technical issues to: support@wynkmarketing.com
Friendly Planet Travel

Lovin Life After 50

Big Sur ad

Tara Tours ad

Alaska Cruises & Vacations ad

Cruise One ad

Visit Norway ad

MySwitzerland.com

Sitka, Alaska ad

Montreal tourism site

Visit Berlin ad

official website of the Netherlands

Cruise Copenhagen ad

Sun Valley ad

Philippine Department of Tourism portal

Quebec City tourism ad

AlaskaFerry ad

Zurich official website

Zuiderzee Museum ad

Like-a-Local.com