Conquering Nebraska's
Panorama Point:
My First State Highpoint
By James Boitano
Photo by: Jonathan Tetsill
remember
from my 4th grade school geography book how we were presented with a
long and often dull list of facts for each state which, for our general
benefit and good citizenship, we were somehow supposed to memorize and
assimilate. Later, most of us are lucky to remember that Dover is the
capital of Delaware, but at the time I still had more trouble understanding
how learning the state flower and nickname of Connecticut (the Mountain
Laurel and The Nutmeg State, just so you know) would in any way later
serve me in my adult life.
Yet years later, I was reminded
of one of those minutiae of state trivia gleaned from my school texts
when I stumbled across a strange little travel guide in my local bookstore.
It was a guide to state high points. Of course, now I remembered: every
state was always presented with the statistic of its highest and lowest
elevations. I always remembered this because I felt pretty sore at the
time that my own state's Mount Rainier (14,410') was humbled by a mere
dozen boulders into a lower rank due to California's Mount Whitney (14,505')
and Colorado's Mount Elbert (14,440').
So I was intrigued and picked the
guide up. Now, if you assume that this is a mountaineering guide with
instructions on how to scale the glaciers of Alaska's Denali (20,320')
or the other high peaks mentioned above, then you would be correct.
At least partially: these glacial peaks are only one side of the spectrum.
And as I'm no mountain climber such instructions on how to climb a glacier
or rocky moraine weren't the really interesting part or my cup of tea
(I'd never hiked more than 10 feet above the visitors' center and gift
shop at Mount Rainier National Park). No, what was fascinating was just
how 'low' and completely unimpressive so many of these 'high' points
actually were, and yet were presented with separate chapters and equally
serious detailed instructions as the higher peaks. Even more intriguing:
instead of requiring rope gear and oxygen tanks, many of these were
accessible by your very own car. Florida's Britton Hill (345' was at
the edge of a parking lot in a little park, Louisiana's Driskill Mountain
(534') on the grounds of a local church, and Delaware's highpoint (448')
was either along the side of the highway or in the middle of the next
door trailer park (but this didn't really count as the park had been
raised a few feet due to flooding). So, why on earth issue a travel
guide to such places? As it turns out, 'Highpointing' has it's following,
with clubs, websites and even annual conventions dedicated to those
whose goal in life is to reach all fifty summits, or at least as many
as the road can take them to.
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Photo by: Jonathan Tetsill |
That's how I ended up at Nebraska's
5,429' Panorama Point last September. I was already going to Denver
with my friend Jonathan from Cornwall, UK to do a Rocky Mountain road
trip and I noticed Panorama Point was just a few hours to the east,
just a mile from the Colorado state line. The Great Plaines start at
mile high Denver and then gradually slope downward, losing a few feet
per mile until you reach the Mississippi. It's no coincidence then that
the high points for both the Dakotas, Nebraska, Kansas and Oklahoma
are all located within a few miles of their western borders: if you
moved these states' borders a few miles to the west they'd all end up
with new highpoints.
Jonathan was a good sport and up
for this eccentric little detour to the southwest corner of the Nebraska
Panhandle. We headed across the plains to the little town of Kimball
whose chamber of commerce had done an excellent job promoting their
county's greatest claim to fame.
They provided us with maps, detailed directions and even offering t-shirts
and post cards of their mighty mountain. And a few words on little Kimball
Nebraska. If you have ever looked at a map at the empty expanses of
rural western Nebraska and shrugged it off with a 'yeah, right', think
again. After our 10-state drive across the rest, both Jonathan and I
decided that Kimball was just about our favorite place: it was vibrant,
cozy, and just so memorably friendly. The Chamber of Commerce welcomed
us with open arms, and then sent us off to visit to the town gift shop
(Specialties Unlimited) to get local jam with our 10% off coupon, to
get fresh rolls at the little bakery, an excellent latte at the café.
And for dinner that night: the best steak dinner I ever had (and for
only $10.00). It was refreshing to be in a small town whose main street
didn't have any chain stores or boarded up building, where the hospitality
was effusive but not suffocating, where all while being an outsider
in a small rural town, you never once felt like one. Everyone greeted
you. It's a cliché (and perhaps condescending) to say it was
like stepping back in time: no, it was a modern place where only the
hospitality was old fashioned.
Early the next morning we took off
at sunrise and headed to the 'mountain'. It was a good hour's drive to
the southwest corner of the county, right where Nebraska, Colorado and
Wyoming met at a tri-point. It was a good thing we had a map, as the directions
involved at least a dozen often unmarked turns, leading from the state
highway to smaller and smaller dirt country roads, and finally up a rutted
narrow cattle path. If you have ever imagined the Great Plains to be dull
and lifeless then you've never driven on a country road in Western Nebraska
on a sunny September morning: the roads were lined with thousands of sunflowers,
the sky and vistas were endless, and the landscape was rugged and exotic
and beckoned you to just drive on and see how far such empty splendor
could go on for. It was the kind of place that made you feel alive, vibrant
and completely cut off from the stresses of life. For me that can be the
greatest reward of any vacation.
The sun ducked behind a cloud as we approached the peak, adding a somber,
otherworldly feel to the utterly empty place. That we hadn't seen another
human soul the entire trip reminded us that our destination was, well,
a rather quirky one: a far cry from such heavily trotted tourist paths
of say a Venice or a Cancun. The presence of bison added to the Wild West
feel: the peak is located in the midst of a vast private bison preserve
whose owners request a small honor system donation to leave at the unguarded
entrance.
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Photo by: James Boitano
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There's not much more left to say
about Panorama Point: you drive up to the official high point marker
and the registration box next to it to record your presence onto their
log, and that's it. It's even hard to tell you are anywhere much higher
than the surrounding terrain: it was global positioning, not any real
visual gradient that determined that this spot was the place. With nothing
around but the wind, the grasses, the sky and the bison, you are utterly
alone and at peace with the world. It's the journey, not the destination
which is so often the case.
But we'd done it: our very first high point. There was absolutely no
need to rush and we were in no mood to. Our personalized certificates
attesting to the fact we had conquered Panorama Peak would be waiting
for us back at the chamber of commerce in Kimball when we returned.
We accepted them proudly and I couldn't even resist buying a t-shirt
I felt so proud. And now I was only 49 states away from my goal of attaining
all 50 and be a true highpointer.
So perhaps it was no coincidence
that the very next day we found ourselves at a hitherto unscheduled
visit to Mount Sunflower down in Kansas (elevation 4,039'). But that's
another story.
For more information on Highpointing check out:
www.highpointers.org
www.americasroof.com
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