Traveling Boy: John Clayton: Chewton Glen

John Clayton: Chewton Glen

Chewton Glen - It's Not In Scotland
But It Is the Best Luxury Resort in England
(And They're Waiting to Welcome You!)
Words and Pictures by John Clayton

Chewton Glen

f I told you one of the most romantic ways to get to one of Britain's most spectacular resorts is by cruise ship, you might think I'd gone - as the British might say - a little batty - or crazy. Then again what if I added that you'd find Chewton Glen's Pimms Number One the most refreshing drink this side of London, you'd undoubtedly think that yes, I'd spent too long in the sun. Suppose on top of all this I told you the best local sightseeing is a forest with over 3,000 cuddly, charming and loveable ponies? Of all the luxurious places in which I've stayed, I can honestly tell you that none come close to Chewton Glen. While the name Chewton does sound a bit strange, it is uniquely British. But the word Glen, that makes you think of Scotland. But the fact is this gorgeous, romantic and one of a kind hotel, spa and country club is located 90 minutes South of London's Heathrow airport, in the county of Hampshire, and is only 35 minutes from the historic port of Southampton, home of British liners the Queen Mary 2 and the new Queen Victoria.

Traveling the world as I do, it's a challenge to pinpoint one destination as being better than any other. Yet after I'd spent two nights at Chewton Glen, I knew I'd found Nirvana. Named by Gourmet Magazine in 2000 as "The Best Country House In the World," this quintessential 5 star resort is the type of destination you're convinced exists only in your imagination. Set on the edge of the 145 square mile New Forest, Chewton provides guests total comfort and luxury. When you read about the New Forest, you'll be surprised to learn that ten percent of it is, now get this phrase, "Bogs and wet heath." What you may ask, is that? Then again if you want river fishing as fishing should be, how about doing it in Timsbury on the River Test? As I quickly found out after I'd arrived at Chewton Glen, staying there is the epitome of what a much slower, much more relaxed lifestyle is all about.

Climb aboard a tour bus organized by Chewton Glen's concierge, for a fascinating tour of the New Forest, and if you're a WW2 buff you'll probably be surprised to see a very old US Air Force runway from WW2 - decaying and crumbling in places, but still a reminder of where US fighters and bombers took off on their bombing missions over Europe. I found the word "New" somewhat disingenuous, because the New Forest was created by none other than William the Conqueror back in the year 1079! This tour was like taking a trip back in time, with a landscape mostly unchanged since medieval times.

Considering the almost countless options such as golf on Chewton's 9 hole course; having real fun playing the very British game of croquet on their British Home and Gardens' type lawn; relishing the tasteful delights of a scrumptious afternoon tea on the patio; or finding complete relaxation in their Hydrotherapy Pool, Chewton Glen is totally captivating. Conde Nast Traveler Magazine voted it the best hotel in the British Isles, and every one of its 58 charming bedrooms are so comfortable you'll probably want to spend more time there than you imagined. Especially as most accommodations have their own terrace, balcony or, now get this, private garden. If, among the fragrant aromas that waft around this 130 acre property from the profusion of multi colored flowers, you also notice a whiff of fresh sea breezes, you'd be correct. Taking a wonderful trail called "The Chewton Bunny" it's only a 20 minute walk to the English Channel!

Whether it's the heated towel rack in your mini suite, the fluffy towels that envelop you after your shower or bath, or soaking up the ambience in one of the resort's lounges (that made me feel I was in the home of some English Lord or Lady) Chewton Glen should be on your list of places to enjoy in Great Britain. While you're there be sure you ask for a Pimms Number One Cup. This drink is as British as a cup of tea, and harkens back to a London Oyster Bar in 1840. The owner, James Pimm, wanted a drink that was a real thirst quencher. It was a mixture of gin, quince, and a secret mixture of herbs. It became an instant hit. The Pimms No 1 Cup served by Chewton Glen is the best ever, and uses the following for each Pimms served - a slice of orange, lemon, apple and - now get this - cucumber and one sprig of mint - then add two parts lemonade to one part Pimms. And hey Presto you've got the best Pimms in all of the United Kingdom. In fact that's how you'll remember Chewton Glen. Elegant, refreshing, and the best of the best.

Many websites are often difficult to navigate, but when you click on www.chewtonglen.com you'll be captivated by its harmonious simplicity, and the wealth of worthwhile and intriguing information. So much so, that you'll probably want to make a reservation right now. If you can't wait to talk to your travel agent, call Chewton Glen in the USA, toll free, at 1-800-344-5087.

World War 2 airfield, New Forest
A Step Back in Time

It looks as if it's ready for immediate use - but its Glory Days were back in WW2 when this deserted, crumbling stretch of black top, used to be the runway for USAAF bombers and fighters during that conflict. Stand, as I did on this runway, and let your mind wander back to those days, and you can almost hear the whine of aircraft engines, and the sounds of a very active World War Two airfield. No longer in use, it's part of the surprising scenery in the New Forest. I found the word "New" to be a bit disingenuous (but VERY British!) because the forest dates back to William the Conqueror in 1079!

hydrotherapy pool at Chewton Glen
What A Way To Relax!

One of the most popular attractions at Chewton Glen is this superb Hydrotherapy Pool - the first of its kind in Great Britain. I thoroughly enjoyed its body jets that gave me a wonderfully relaxing deep, all over massage - that made me feel like a million bucks - and the location is equally fantastic!

lawn for croquet, Chewton Glen
Any One for Croquet!

Chewton Glen is service personified - and unlike any other resort I've ever stayed in, and so quintessentially British. Drinks (and Pimms!) can be served on the Patio, and croquet takes place on this pristine English lawn. Pimms is as British as a cup of tea, and harkens back to James Pimm's London Oyster Bar in 1840. It was a mixture of gin, quince, and a secret mixture of herbs. It became an instant hit. The Pimms No 1 Cup served by Chewton Glen is the best ever, and uses a slice of orange, lemon, apple and - now get this - cucumber and one sprig of mint - then add two parts lemonade to one part Pimms.

white horse grazing in shallow pond
Serenity!

A scene so peaceful it might have been an artwork by famed English painter John Constable. The animal shown is one of the three thousand or so ponies that inhabit the New Forest, and each is owned by what’s called “A Commoner,” and must be so marked before it is left to wander wherever they wish. Touring this amazing stretch of the English countryside, is a MUST when staying at Chewton Glen.

Military Buffs Will Love It!

If you're any sort of WW2 aficionado, you'll be intrigued by what you see in the New Forest. I was surprised - and thrilled - by the way the efforts of the RAF and USAAF have been memorialized and not forgotten by the various monuments I saw.

John, Your refection on how young those can be who die in war reminded me of the A.E. Houseman poem at the entrance to the Fighter Command museum in London (beside the photo and engine of the RAF fighter pilot who died in the Battle of Britain): "Here dead lie we because we did not choose to live and shame the land from which we sprung. Life, to be sure, is nothing much to lose; But young men think it is, and we were young."

Eric, San Diego, CA

Ringo and Deb can have their Oasis - this to me smacks of heavenly travel - thanks for the article and photos.

Brenda - Richland, WA

Hi John,

I have read a few articles about R for Robert, but yours by far is the best. My grandfather was co-pilot John Slatter (my Dad's dad). It is so neat to hear about ancestry. There is actually a book published called R for Robert. Another interesting detail.... I live in NH, and in 1985 a lawyer with many interests from Concord,NH and a sonar exploration company from Salem, NH were the ones who started the project to pull the Wellington out of the Loch. I am always trying to find information about that side of our family, and love to read articles such as yours. Thanks for the piece.....

Cyndi - Raymond, NH

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Greetings my dear Cyndi

I was born in Kensington in London, and although I've been in this great place called the USA for 48 amazing years, if it is still true that Brits ARE noted for understatement, let me tell you that your email not only made my day, but gave me a huge, huge thrill.

I am a WW2 aficionado, and had one of the biggest "thrill sensations" of my life, when the French government invited me to the 60th Anniversary of D-Day on June 6th, 2004. In fact, I sat 50 feet from world leaders like Bush, Putin, and Queen Elizabeth. When I went to Loch Ness and heard (and saw!) that a wonderful Wellington had crashed there, and that it also pin pointed WHERE it had happened, I was in nirvana. I stood on the side of the road and, as I gazed out at the cold and forbidding waters that day, I was instantly transported back to the time and day when it happened - and in my imagination I saw and heard it all. So to get your amazing and (to me) riveting letter, was and is totally amazing - and wonderful.

John

Hello John,

Ed Boitano (who I met on a Star Clipper cruise in the Mediterranean last July) has sent me a link to your above article on the 'Little Steam Trains of North Wales' which I read with interest. One of the photo captions mentions a sign above the train in Welsh, which says: FFORD ALLAN GOFYNN'R DEITHWYR DDEFNYDDIO'R BONT I GROESI'R LEIN. Rougly translated it is a Notice to travellers to use the bridge to cross the line. In Welsh bont is a bridge or archway, Groesi is a crossing, Lein a line, (in this case a rail line or alternative it could mean a line-out (as in Rugby football - but that's another game!) Although born in Wales as Ed may tell you my Welsh is very limited, but trust this answers your question and it amuses! Kind regards,

John Dann - Hove, East Sussex, England

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How wonderful to know that people in Hove (for heavens sakes!) are reading Traveling Boy. I remember -- with much fondness --- visiting Hove during my early years in the UK - charming and very British, so I hope it is still that way and that it has NOT been over run with neon signs and crass commercialism.

Thanks too for your comment about the Welsh wording on the bridge. There were so many wonderful things that intrigued me about Wales, and one of them was - and is! - the language. I mean you'd see this long series of words in Welsh, and then underneath it would give the British translation, and it'd very often be only one or two words. I attach a photo I took of a road sign to illustrate my point. In any event, thanks for your kind words and interesting feedback. MOST appreciated.

John

Dear John,

Your website is fantastic. I am building a Messerschmitt BF109E Model in Balsa Wood and I have a problem in finding the numbers of its original colour (BF 109E-3 with a Donald Duck painted at rear of Romania.)I've been looking around and tried to see through the internet but can't find any help. Please if you have this information and can help me, I would appreciate it very much and I thank you in advance I send you my best regards,

Philip Vella - St. Julians, Malta

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Hi Philip,

Very nice to get your email and I'm so glad you like what you've seen and read on Traveling boy. Sadly, I do not have the answer to your question either. I do, however, have one suggestion and idea.

Among all my aviation books form that period, I have one called "Aircraft of World War 2." It is published by Chartwell Books, 114 Northfield Avenue, Edison, New Jersey 08837, USA. The editorial and design was done by Amber Books at Bradley Close, 74-77 White Lion Street, London N1 9PF, England. Their website is www.amberbooks.co.uk.

As the above book is jam packed with fascinating facts about all the aircraft from WW2, I feel that if you write to both of them with your question, they might be able to help you. The book is written by Robert Jackson and he seems to be a mountain of information. Google his name and see what comes up.

John

Hello John, I don't know if you remember me or not but my name is Cliff Pleggenkuhle, Jr. I flew for Cal from 1964 to 2003. I got the article you did on Wes Coss from the Cal Chief Pilots office. The communications people forwarded the article to them. Anyway, I sent the article to the Golden Contrails editor and he is going to include the article in our next edition. The contrails is the publication of our retired group the Golden Eagles.

I have read the book and it was great. It would make a good movie. I also sent your article to my old banker, who is a airplane and WWII nut and I think he is sending you an article about the underground in WWII. He writes articles of interest in a weekly local paper in Liberty County, TX.

I will quit rambling and just wanted to let you know your fine article on Wes will be appreciated by many.

Regards,

Cliff Pleggenkuhle, Jr., Huffman, TX

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Sir...A good friend, a captain with Continental Airlines, Cliff Pleggenkuhle sent me your website. Indeed, your story about the great escape (albeit brief) was one that should be shared. Chuck Yeager also made his way to Spain and his story was somewhat similar. But it takes a real writer to set the plan in motion (and I really mean...motion) as you have done.

I'm taking the liberty to send you a copy of my newspaper column about another hero that I have known. Ironically, your mention of the escape of Wes being true can set aside the Great Escape of Stalag whatever. The untrue part that it was led by an American pilot when actually it was a Dutch pilot named Bob Vanderstock and others. When I went to Belgium with my friend Pieter Cramerus, a Dutch ace who flew Spitfires during WWII for the RAF, he told me about his friend Vanderstock's escape. Then, he introduced to me this fantastic former agent of the Belgium Underground who married his cousin. The rest is in the article. I hope you enjoy it. Thanks again for your expertise in writing the word.

Bob Jamison, Dayton, TX

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You're getting some serious journalism on your site! Literary indeed. Award-winning potential, and I'm not just talking about YOUR stuff!!

Terry Cassel

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Greetings....

Of all the stories I've written in my lifetime, I cannot think of any one that gave me as much pleasure and joy, in writing the piece about Wes. It required all my best "creative juices," and also - truly thrilling for me - gave me a marvelous opportunity to put words together about battle, about flying and about military history. Knowing how important editing is to any story, and to a reader's enjoyment of same (in other words it has to flow freely and be very concise) I wrote the article in one sitting, and then re-wrote it six times.

I have no idea who this Terry Cassel is, but I cannot tell you how thrilled and how, yes overwhelmed I am, by his brief (editing again proving that less is more) comments about my story. Thank you Ed for giving me this opportunity to put THIS story on the amazing Traveling Boy website. And Wes, thank you for allowing me to chat with you and glean from you (and then your book!) all the fascinating stuff that came together as my article.

Thanks must also go to my wife and my two daughters who have always believed in me, and who (as Father's Day has just passed) gave me the most wonderful and heart wrenching Father's Day cards imaginable. I have always told them that anything is achievable and possible, and that one should NEVER give up. Keep on knocking on doors and even if 20 are closed in your face, if you find yourself knocking on the 21st one, that'll very probably will be THE one that opens up for you - and demonstrates that your determination to never take NO as any sort of answer is a key part of success.

Finally, all of this has only been made reality, by my living and working in this place called the United States of America. Thank you all for everything.

John

Thanks so much for sharing this great story - I am going to copy it to VB who runs the Travel Journalism awards.

Fiona Stewart, Edinburgh

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John,

Nice piece. I adore Scotland, wish I could live there someday...

Chris, Pawling, NY

I enjoyed reading your piece on France; it was very informative. Unfortunately, I've spent very little time in France; it's more to the favor of my oldest brother. But your words painted a good picture.

Danny Simon

Hi John, I am a friend of your daughter Heidi and she sent me your link so I could read your articles. I have heard so many things about you from her but reading your article I can see why she is so proud to call you her Dad. Your writing transported me to Chewton Glen, I hope to one day be lucky enough to stay there!

Frances Crymble, Auckland, NZ

You describe a city on wheels - er, wings - and an absolutely perfect way to travel. SHOWERS & FLOWERS! Amazing! I love that your passion for all-things-aviation comes through in this story about an almost unbelievable airplane. Thanks for breaking the news in such an engaging way!

Richard Frisbie, Saugerties, New York

Good article on the biggest commercial airplane in the world. Very interesting. Love your easy personal writing style. Can't wait to get inside one of these sky monsters. I wonder how they will ever recoup their expenses. But then again, with the Arab nations overflowing with cash I shed no tear of sympathy. If anyone has to beta test these babies, it should be them.

Peter Paul, South Pasadena

Dear John Clayton:

Thank you very much for your enthusiastic report on the Zeppelin Museum. I am very pleased you like it as we -- the people working there -- do. We try to collect everything on Zeppelins and to make it available to visitors. Only the number of visitors I would like to correct: since the opening in 1996 we hosted more than 3,600,000 people. So we are among the most visited museums in Germany.Thank you very much again -- and kindest regards,

Ursula ZellerDirector

Hi John,

I know the places you describe in your aticle, and I usually feel exactly the same as you did, when I wander in the countryside - I live in this region.How could this places, so peaceful today, be such a hell for some men? But if you're attentive to many details in the ground and the scenary, finding shell shrapnels and tumb stones for example, then you begin to understand

Thank you John.

Florence L.
City: France

John,

It's as if I was there with you. I grew up with Sgt York comic books. To see the real place where a real person so heroically saved the day is something I never expected to experience. Thanks for the historical detail and great photos.

Richard Frisbie
City: Saugerties

John,

As a history and Churchill buff, I found your article to be chilling. I hope someday to make it to the museum. Is the CWR at all part of the Imperial War Museum? I don't know how I missed it in my only trip to London back in 2000.

Thanks again,

Gary Avrech
City: Santa Monica

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Hey Gary....

Yes it is. If you go online and click on the IWM website, you'll find out even more information about this intriguing museum. Thanks for your times and words.

John

John,

Very excited to see your appearance in the Boitano Blog. I don't know who the hell all those Boitanos are, but I know who John Clayton is! Hey, I wrote a note on your column on the Cabinet War Rooms. I'll be a regular reader. I certainly hope all are well and happy on the Peninsula and that all your travels are still terrific.

Ed P

John,

I urge anyone traveling to London to put the Cabinet War Rooms high on their "must see" list. All who've taken my advice have thanked me, just like I thanked you, and do so again, for recommending the museum to me years ago. But then, it's just one of many suggestions of yours, every one brilliant!

Ed
Port St. Lucie, FL

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