Traveling Boy: John Clayton: China

John Clayton: China

Colorful, Captivating,
Charming China!
Words and Pictures by John Clayton

hen you were watching the Olympics last year in China, and when the TV networks showcased some of the incredible scenery in that country, did you ever think yes, I'd love see it up close and personal for myself? For many years China and the enigma it presents to some westerners, had always intrigued me and I'd always wanted to visit there, but I could never find "the right format." During my years on LA radio talking about travel, I always advised my listeners to take a tour, as this format gives you the best of everything. But what sort of tour did I imagine for myself as regards China? How would I know if this or that one was the right one? The result of all this "travel confusion" was that China never appeared in any of my travel plans. Until Viking River Cruises (VRC) came along. Now you say, I'm not interested in a cruise, I'm interested in seeing the real China. But that's exactly what Viking River Cruises does. Several years ago VRC invited me and my wife Brigitte (with an intriguing invitation that said "This Is The Trip Of A Lifetime") to China, along with other travel journalists and travel agents.

Because this trip encompassed so many incredible sights, and because the diversity of things we saw was so extraordinary, I'll share more of that with you in future issues of this publication. But for now here's a "Sampler" of what a Viking River Cruises journey of discovery does for you, and why it is not only such a great way to enjoy the splendor of China, but why it's also the BEST way. Viking is the world's largest river cruise line, and has a modern fleet of 25 ships. In a lifetime devoted to travel, I've found that a lot of people have never even considered a river cruise as a way to enjoy a unique vacation. But the fact is, river cruises and the plentiful shore excursions organized by VRC, are the ideal way to discover these places in an up close and personal way, and in superb comfort. Check out their top notch website at www.vikingrivercruises.com - although you'll find everything you need on this colorful website, I got a lot of marvelous additional information from the Insight Guide series on China, with the best deals at Amazon.com

This is the "entrance" to the world famous 3 Gorges section of the Yangtze River. It sounds incredible to say this, but even though you "see what you see" here, photos still do not do real justice to the riveting beauty, majesty and grandeur of this portion of a trip along the Yangtze. The huge limestone walls that inhabit the hillsides; or the photogenic and magnificent greenery that clings to the cliffs; the reds and browns of the rock face itself; and the soaring peaks that, along with everything else that nature offers us here, stuns the visual and physical senses. This literally spellbinding beauty is something you must see for yourself.

Terra Cota warriors from the Qin Dynasty
If there is one phrase that instantly identifies a country, it's "Terra Cotta Warriors." If Big Ben identifies London, then these figures and their world famous name, identify China. When my wife and I first saw them it was among the most riveting and jaw dropping moments in our lifetime. In 246 BC the future Chinese Emperor of the Qin Dynasty began work (at 13 years of age!) to protect his afterlife. When he did eventually die, he was buried with over 7,000 life sized Terra Cotta horses, archers, chariots and soldiers. In 1974 local farmers began digging a well looking for water, when much to their total amazement they discovered this mesmerizing archeological masterpiece. But most had been smashed beyond recognition by a warlord many, many years before. Restoring them, piece by little piece was, as our VRC guide told us, "like solving the world's greatest jigsaw puzzle." The pavilion in which they're located is enormous.

boats and junks inside one of the locks, 3 Gorges Dam

This photo shows just a small, very small part of the gigantic Three Gorges Dam project, and the large number of boats, junks and other craft waiting for the water to rise in one of the many Locks. It is such a vast project that we spent almost one whole day visiting the site. It is over one mile wide and 610 feet tall. Our VRC guide told us that such an enormous project has never been attempted anywhere in the world before. Total cost is 30 billion dollars and it'll create a 5 trillion gallon reservoir (hundreds of feet deep) 385 miles long. It'll also generate the equivalent electricity of 18 nuclear power plants.

model of 3 Gorges Dam
The 3 Gorges Dam is such a stupendously colossal undertaking, that to give tourists a clearer picture of what it is and what it all means, we visited a large building adjacent to the Dam that, in a series of models and intricate displays, laid out an overall sort of over head view of the project. This photo is a part of that exhibit.

cliffside restaurant in 2005, now under water
Why, you may ask, do I tell you that this is an amazing picture? OK, well when we were half way through the Three Gorges itself in 2005, we stopped at this elegant, charming Cliffside restaurant that served us a wonderful, very tasty lunch. It is now completely under water! One of the reasons for building the Dam was to make navigating the Yangtze easier and, more importantly, protecting the middle and lower part of the river from devastating flooding. Our expert Viking River Cruise guide told us flooding the Yangtze would mean raising the river an amazing 351 feet in total - which is why this restaurant is now under water. VRC tell me that in 2009 their cruises will bring passengers through the Lesser 3 Gorges, and then take them back to the ship for lunch.

pagoda and houses on a cliff
There are, quite literally, so many extraordinary sights to see with this VRC cruise - especially the (often) centuries old structures like pagodas and such, on the cliffs as we sailed serenely by. Note too, the houses perched, so it seems, precariously on the top right hand of this massive rock outcropping.

river craft sailing along the Yangtze
Another real "joy to the eyes," is the marvelous array of boats and other river craft that sail along this 3,554 mile long river - and the 185 cities that are located along its length and breadth.

Comments/Questions? Email John at john@travelingboy.com

Ringo and Deb can have their Oasis - this to me smacks of heavenly travel - thanks for the article and photos.

Brenda - Richland, WA

Hi John,

I have read a few articles about R for Robert, but yours by far is the best. My grandfather was co-pilot John Slatter (my Dad's dad). It is so neat to hear about ancestry. There is actually a book published called R for Robert. Another interesting detail.... I live in NH, and in 1985 a lawyer with many interests from Concord,NH and a sonar exploration company from Salem, NH were the ones who started the project to pull the Wellington out of the Loch. I am always trying to find information about that side of our family, and love to read articles such as yours. Thanks for the piece.....

Cyndi - Raymond, NH

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Greetings my dear Cyndi

I was born in Kensington in London, and although I've been in this great place called the USA for 48 amazing years, if it is still true that Brits ARE noted for understatement, let me tell you that your email not only made my day, but gave me a huge, huge thrill.

I am a WW2 aficionado, and had one of the biggest "thrill sensations" of my life, when the French government invited me to the 60th Anniversary of D-Day on June 6th, 2004. In fact, I sat 50 feet from world leaders like Bush, Putin, and Queen Elizabeth. When I went to Loch Ness and heard (and saw!) that a wonderful Wellington had crashed there, and that it also pin pointed WHERE it had happened, I was in nirvana. I stood on the side of the road and, as I gazed out at the cold and forbidding waters that day, I was instantly transported back to the time and day when it happened - and in my imagination I saw and heard it all. So to get your amazing and (to me) riveting letter, was and is totally amazing - and wonderful.

John

Hello John,

Ed Boitano (who I met on a Star Clipper cruise in the Mediterranean last July) has sent me a link to your above article on the 'Little Steam Trains of North Wales' which I read with interest. One of the photo captions mentions a sign above the train in Welsh, which says: FFORD ALLAN GOFYNN'R DEITHWYR DDEFNYDDIO'R BONT I GROESI'R LEIN. Rougly translated it is a Notice to travellers to use the bridge to cross the line. In Welsh bont is a bridge or archway, Groesi is a crossing, Lein a line, (in this case a rail line or alternative it could mean a line-out (as in Rugby football - but that's another game!) Although born in Wales as Ed may tell you my Welsh is very limited, but trust this answers your question and it amuses! Kind regards,

John Dann - Hove, East Sussex, England

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How wonderful to know that people in Hove (for heavens sakes!) are reading Traveling Boy. I remember -- with much fondness --- visiting Hove during my early years in the UK - charming and very British, so I hope it is still that way and that it has NOT been over run with neon signs and crass commercialism.

Thanks too for your comment about the Welsh wording on the bridge. There were so many wonderful things that intrigued me about Wales, and one of them was - and is! - the language. I mean you'd see this long series of words in Welsh, and then underneath it would give the British translation, and it'd very often be only one or two words. I attach a photo I took of a road sign to illustrate my point. In any event, thanks for your kind words and interesting feedback. MOST appreciated.

John

Dear John,

Your website is fantastic. I am building a Messerschmitt BF109E Model in Balsa Wood and I have a problem in finding the numbers of its original colour (BF 109E-3 with a Donald Duck painted at rear of Romania.)I've been looking around and tried to see through the internet but can't find any help. Please if you have this information and can help me, I would appreciate it very much and I thank you in advance I send you my best regards,

Philip Vella - St. Julians, Malta

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Hi Philip,

Very nice to get your email and I'm so glad you like what you've seen and read on Traveling boy. Sadly, I do not have the answer to your question either. I do, however, have one suggestion and idea.

Among all my aviation books form that period, I have one called "Aircraft of World War 2." It is published by Chartwell Books, 114 Northfield Avenue, Edison, New Jersey 08837, USA. The editorial and design was done by Amber Books at Bradley Close, 74-77 White Lion Street, London N1 9PF, England. Their website is www.amberbooks.co.uk.

As the above book is jam packed with fascinating facts about all the aircraft from WW2, I feel that if you write to both of them with your question, they might be able to help you. The book is written by Robert Jackson and he seems to be a mountain of information. Google his name and see what comes up.

John

Hello John, I don't know if you remember me or not but my name is Cliff Pleggenkuhle, Jr. I flew for Cal from 1964 to 2003. I got the article you did on Wes Coss from the Cal Chief Pilots office. The communications people forwarded the article to them. Anyway, I sent the article to the Golden Contrails editor and he is going to include the article in our next edition. The contrails is the publication of our retired group the Golden Eagles.

I have read the book and it was great. It would make a good movie. I also sent your article to my old banker, who is a airplane and WWII nut and I think he is sending you an article about the underground in WWII. He writes articles of interest in a weekly local paper in Liberty County, TX.

I will quit rambling and just wanted to let you know your fine article on Wes will be appreciated by many.

Regards,

Cliff Pleggenkuhle, Jr., Huffman, TX

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Sir...A good friend, a captain with Continental Airlines, Cliff Pleggenkuhle sent me your website. Indeed, your story about the great escape (albeit brief) was one that should be shared. Chuck Yeager also made his way to Spain and his story was somewhat similar. But it takes a real writer to set the plan in motion (and I really mean...motion) as you have done.

I'm taking the liberty to send you a copy of my newspaper column about another hero that I have known. Ironically, your mention of the escape of Wes being true can set aside the Great Escape of Stalag whatever. The untrue part that it was led by an American pilot when actually it was a Dutch pilot named Bob Vanderstock and others. When I went to Belgium with my friend Pieter Cramerus, a Dutch ace who flew Spitfires during WWII for the RAF, he told me about his friend Vanderstock's escape. Then, he introduced to me this fantastic former agent of the Belgium Underground who married his cousin. The rest is in the article. I hope you enjoy it. Thanks again for your expertise in writing the word.

Bob Jamison, Dayton, TX

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You're getting some serious journalism on your site! Literary indeed. Award-winning potential, and I'm not just talking about YOUR stuff!!

Terry Cassel

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Greetings....

Of all the stories I've written in my lifetime, I cannot think of any one that gave me as much pleasure and joy, in writing the piece about Wes. It required all my best "creative juices," and also - truly thrilling for me - gave me a marvelous opportunity to put words together about battle, about flying and about military history. Knowing how important editing is to any story, and to a reader's enjoyment of same (in other words it has to flow freely and be very concise) I wrote the article in one sitting, and then re-wrote it six times.

I have no idea who this Terry Cassel is, but I cannot tell you how thrilled and how, yes overwhelmed I am, by his brief (editing again proving that less is more) comments about my story. Thank you Ed for giving me this opportunity to put THIS story on the amazing Traveling Boy website. And Wes, thank you for allowing me to chat with you and glean from you (and then your book!) all the fascinating stuff that came together as my article.

Thanks must also go to my wife and my two daughters who have always believed in me, and who (as Father's Day has just passed) gave me the most wonderful and heart wrenching Father's Day cards imaginable. I have always told them that anything is achievable and possible, and that one should NEVER give up. Keep on knocking on doors and even if 20 are closed in your face, if you find yourself knocking on the 21st one, that'll very probably will be THE one that opens up for you - and demonstrates that your determination to never take NO as any sort of answer is a key part of success.

Finally, all of this has only been made reality, by my living and working in this place called the United States of America. Thank you all for everything.

John

Thanks so much for sharing this great story - I am going to copy it to VB who runs the Travel Journalism awards.

Fiona Stewart, Edinburgh

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John,

Nice piece. I adore Scotland, wish I could live there someday...

Chris, Pawling, NY

I enjoyed reading your piece on France; it was very informative. Unfortunately, I've spent very little time in France; it's more to the favor of my oldest brother. But your words painted a good picture.

Danny Simon

Hi John, I am a friend of your daughter Heidi and she sent me your link so I could read your articles. I have heard so many things about you from her but reading your article I can see why she is so proud to call you her Dad. Your writing transported me to Chewton Glen, I hope to one day be lucky enough to stay there!

Frances Crymble, Auckland, NZ

You describe a city on wheels - er, wings - and an absolutely perfect way to travel. SHOWERS & FLOWERS! Amazing! I love that your passion for all-things-aviation comes through in this story about an almost unbelievable airplane. Thanks for breaking the news in such an engaging way!

Richard Frisbie, Saugerties, New York

Good article on the biggest commercial airplane in the world. Very interesting. Love your easy personal writing style. Can't wait to get inside one of these sky monsters. I wonder how they will ever recoup their expenses. But then again, with the Arab nations overflowing with cash I shed no tear of sympathy. If anyone has to beta test these babies, it should be them.

Peter Paul, South Pasadena

Dear John Clayton:

Thank you very much for your enthusiastic report on the Zeppelin Museum. I am very pleased you like it as we -- the people working there -- do. We try to collect everything on Zeppelins and to make it available to visitors. Only the number of visitors I would like to correct: since the opening in 1996 we hosted more than 3,600,000 people. So we are among the most visited museums in Germany.Thank you very much again -- and kindest regards,

Ursula ZellerDirector

Hi John,

I know the places you describe in your aticle, and I usually feel exactly the same as you did, when I wander in the countryside - I live in this region.How could this places, so peaceful today, be such a hell for some men? But if you're attentive to many details in the ground and the scenary, finding shell shrapnels and tumb stones for example, then you begin to understand

Thank you John.

Florence L.
City: France

John,

It's as if I was there with you. I grew up with Sgt York comic books. To see the real place where a real person so heroically saved the day is something I never expected to experience. Thanks for the historical detail and great photos.

Richard Frisbie
City: Saugerties

John,

As a history and Churchill buff, I found your article to be chilling. I hope someday to make it to the museum. Is the CWR at all part of the Imperial War Museum? I don't know how I missed it in my only trip to London back in 2000.

Thanks again,

Gary Avrech
City: Santa Monica

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Hey Gary....

Yes it is. If you go online and click on the IWM website, you'll find out even more information about this intriguing museum. Thanks for your times and words.

John

John,

Very excited to see your appearance in the Boitano Blog. I don't know who the hell all those Boitanos are, but I know who John Clayton is! Hey, I wrote a note on your column on the Cabinet War Rooms. I'll be a regular reader. I certainly hope all are well and happy on the Peninsula and that all your travels are still terrific.

Ed P

John,

I urge anyone traveling to London to put the Cabinet War Rooms high on their "must see" list. All who've taken my advice have thanked me, just like I thanked you, and do so again, for recommending the museum to me years ago. But then, it's just one of many suggestions of yours, every one brilliant!

Ed
Port St. Lucie, FL

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