Paradise on Earth:
The Romance of Tahiti
And Her Islands Story by Ringo Boitano Photographs by Deb Roskamp
he first thing you notice is the fragrance. The intoxicating perfume
of the tiare flower announces to your senses that you are in a magical
place, overflowing with tropical vegetation and soothing trade winds.
It is the same fragrance that the English seamen on the HMS
Bounty also first encountered; but they came, not for flowers, but
for breadfruit, intended as a new food staple for their slaves in the
West Indies. But that was another time and another emotional place.
Today, Papeete,
located on Tahiti
Nui (“Big”), is Tahiti’s vibrant capital city and
gateway to her islands. Roughly one-half of all of the Tahitian islands’
population lives in this city. Papeete bustles with world-class resorts,
restaurants, nightclubs and endless shopping. If it’s a pearl you
want or a hand-painted pareu (sarongs) - worn by women and men alike
- this is the place for it.
The
Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands offers a good overview of the island’s
history. The English were the first Europeans to arrive, stripping the
islanders of much of their heritage. In 1842, the French took over,
and today the islands’ inhabitants possess full French citizenship,
but the Gallic texture is evident only on the surface. Tahitians have
maintained much of their old lifestyles. This is an island paradise
and the warmth and openness of its people is the essence of its charm.
Not to be missed is Arahurahu
Marae, the islands’ only completely reconstructed marae.
An open-air place of worship and ceremony, the sacred temple is
constructed of tiers of stones where the Tahitian elite made sacrifices.
Yes, sometimes even human.
Put an inland safari on your list, too.
My jeep tour was deep into the mountainous valley of Papenoo;
a true Garden of Eden with fertile displays of ginger, vanilla,
taro, noni and breadfruit. The medicinal and cosmetic benefits
of the pants and flowers are well utilized by the Tahitians, renowned
for their health, physical beauty and spiritual serenity.
Tahiti Nui has much to offer, but locals also proudly
tout the outlying, less-populated islands for their beauty and tranquility.
Exploring the other Tahitian islands is best accomplished by booking
an excursion on a cruise ship. You get to see more islands and it is
less expensive.
With its alluring blue lagoons, lush tropical slopes
and Mount Otemanu looming in the distance, this enchanting island is
synonymous with romance. Bora Bora is the place for a bike ride around
the island, a leisurely hike, or to simply disappear on a white sandy
beach. The history buff will enjoy seeing remnants of cannons manned
by American servicemen during World War II. Until 1942, there were no
roads and no vehicles on Bora Bora. Now tourism is on the rise, with
scores of over-the-water bungalows dotting the multi-hued clear lagoon,
but to the Yankee mainlander, this is still paradise found.
Moorea is the very essence of a South Seas island paradise,
and it comes as no surprise that it is a favorite of many Tahitians.
The beauty of the island, with its jagged green mountains and palm-draped
beaches, is astounding. James Michener called it Bali Hai, Herman Melville
based his novel Omoo on it, and Captain Cook spoke passionately of its
landscapes and the beauty of the local people. Moorea is unique among
the Tahitian Islands in having magnificent expanses of both white and
black beaches. High in Moorea’s interior mountains, Polynesian
royalty practiced their archery and maraes are hidden in rainforests.
On a hilltop lookout between shark-tooth Mount Rotui and towering Mount
Tohivea, there is an once-in-a-lifetime view once reserved only for
the gods.
Raiatea, meaning “faraway heaven” was the
cultural, religious and royal heart of Polynesia – the birthplace
of the gods. The second largest Tahitian isle, it was where entire clans,
complete with dogs, plants, trees and livestock, sailed off to find
new homes on other islands. Today, you can canoe around the fjord-like
Faaroa Bay and discover why the island was a favorite of Captain Cook.
Taha’a offers a glimpse of the traditional tranquil
life of the Tahitians. The flower-shaped island is surrounded by tiny
motus (small islands) and in its fertile valleys farmers grow watermelon
and vanilla - which is much stronger than the vanilla that is generally
obtained from Mexico.
The Foods of Tahiti
Indigenous Tahitian cuisine uses what’s available
from the land and from the sea, and is abundant in fish and fruit. Coconut
milk and vanilla are incorporated in many of the dishes. Poisson
Cru, tuna cured in limejuice with chopped green onions, cucumbers
and tomatoes; and Fafa,
a stew of chicken with spinach-like taro leaves; are among my favorites.
The taro root (more flavorful than the Hawaiian version), breadfruit,
sweet potatoes, and plantains offer typical starch fare. Mangoes, bananas,
watermelon, pineapple, papaya, guava, soursop and pummelo are in abundance.
From the lagoons come parrotfish, perch, and mullet; from the open sea
the freshest of fresh tuna, bonito, wahoo, scad and mahi mahi.
For further information about Tahiti and her Islands,
log-on to Tahiti-Tourisme.com.
Feedback for Ringo
I love Ringo's piece on historic hotels. I once stayed
at the Laurentian in Montreal - is it still around, is it historic?
And then there was the Heups in Bismark.
It is interesting that two of your entries are in CANADA.
Brent, Seattle, WA
It's no mystery that you are great at what you do.
Sandee, Seattle, WA
* * * *
The Mystery on the Oasis pics are very funny!
Ramon, Kansas City, MO
* * * *
Ha ha ha ha ha...love your "schtick" Ringo!!
Dolly, Las Vegas, NV
Hello the travelling Boitano's hope you enjoy. Best
wishes.
My Irish roots understand terrible beauty. So do my
human roots. The concept has such a ring of truth to it, doesn't it?
Great article, Ringo. I hope to get to Ireland eventually, and thanks
for blazing the trail!
Sandeee Bleu, Seattle, WA
* * * *
No wonder I've been hearing all these wonderful stories
about Ireland. I used to think that it was just for Irish Americans
seeking their ancestral roots but your article seems to call out to
the non-Irish like me. Fascinating and intriguing.
Peter Paul, Pasadena, CA
Thanks for this great post wow... it's very wonderful.
Key Logger, New York
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Lets not forget that the Marriot Harbor Beach is within
walking distance to the world famous Elbo Room - Fort Lauderdale's oldest
bar.
Jeff, Fort Lauderdale, FL
* * * *
Jeff–
Thanks for taking the time
for the message and reminder. Indeed, I had a quick drink at the Elbo
Room. My trip to Ft. Lauderdale would not have been complete without
a visit to this historic institution.I have been reading about it for
years, and was not disappointed. It felt like a real local's hangout.
- Ringo
Ringo,
I
thoroughly enjoyed your article about Dick and Liz. I remember seeing
that article back in the heyday of Life Magazine.
To remember the "behind-the-scenes" stories
like that makes you genuine fan of the 60's. The famous couple's turbulent
relationship was just a precursor of today's headline-grabbing media
stars like Britney Spears and her colleagues. Life was simpler then.
The paparazzis still had some sense of decency. You "coulda"
been a good paparazzi. I say "coulda" because you kept this
to yourself all these many years.
Looking forward to other media trivia you can remember.
Peter Paul, South Pasadena, CA
Hey, Ringo –
Enjoyed your article on Antarctica --- cool photos,
too. One thing, you mentioned that Ushuaia in Argentina is considered
the most southern city in the world. I read that Chile lays claim to
that distinction, with Punta Arenas, the southernmost city in the world.
Mick, Greenbay, WI
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Mick –
Now that football season is
over --- I’ve often wondered what you Packer fans did in the off
season ---- it’s great that you took the time to visit TravelingBoy.
Great question, unlike my older brother, I adore all lamb products,
and Patagonian Lamb --- cooked in a restricted area at the restaurant
in an opened wood-fueled fire pit --- is amazing. The chef actually
uses an ax to carve it. Frankly, I found it superior to Norwegian fjord
lamb, Irish Burren lamb and even those much esteemed creatures down
in New Zealand. The crab in Ushuaia is the other thing to eat. Wait
a sec, you asked about Punta Arenas vs. Ushuaia as the furthermost city
in the world. Well, they both have little disclaimers re populations
--- you know, what’s a city, which one is a town, ect – so
better let Chile and Argentina brass it out. They seem to be able to
argue about any subject.
- Ringo
Three Musical Pilgrimages: Mozart, Grieg and Hendrix
Johann Chrysostom Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756 - 1791)
could read and compose music, plus play the violin and piano, when he was
five years old. Born into a musical family in Salzburg, Austria (then the
Holy Roman Empire), he had a unique ability for imitating music, which first
became evident when he recited a musical piece by simply observing his father
conducting a lesson to his older sister. This led to a childhood on the
road, where the young prodigy performed before many of the royal courts
of Europe.
Treasures of Ireland: The Irish Goodbye (Dispatch
#20)
The Palladian Traveler brings to a close his 20-part
series on the Emerald Isle from an upscale restaurant in downtown Dublin
where he files his final dispatch and then quietly slips away.
Two "MUST SEE" Truly Spectacular Places
in Europe. Here's Why.
The Han Grotto and Culzean Castle. As the name
of my Traveling Boy feature is "Travel With a Difference," it's
important to me to always bring you offbeat and unusual tourist places around
the world you may not know about. These two fit that category to a T, and
they're absolutely worth a visit. One's in Scotland and one's in Belgium.
Culzean (pronounced CULLANE) Castle is located near Maybole, Carrick, on
the Ayrshire coast of Scotland.
Highway 49 Revisited: Exploring California's
Gold Country
In the 1840s, the population of California was only
14,000, but by 1850 more than 100,000 settlers and adventurers had arrived
from all over the world – and they came for one reason: gold. James
Marshall had discovered the first gold nugget at Sutter’s Mill in El
Dorado County, creating the largest gold rush in history.
he first thing you notice is the fragrance. The intoxicating perfume
of the tiare flower announces to your senses that you are in a magical
place, overflowing with tropical vegetation and soothing trade winds.
It is the same fragrance that the English seamen on the 
