Most travelers have heard of the U.S. Virgin Islands; some of the British Virgin Islands. Those familiar with the BVI usually know Tortola; maybe even Jost Van Dyke and Virgin Gorda. Almost no one has ever heard of Anegada. Which is a shame because it has so much to recommend it.
For starters, it has multiple beautiful beaches with soft sand whiter and azure water more inviting than the sometimes more challenging undertow-laden surf of its more famous sister island. As a bonus, its very drivable roads are flat and low as opposed to the windy, mountainous, death-defying roads on Tortola. Apparently, that’s because Anegada is the only inhabited British Virgin Island formed from coral and limestone rather than being of volcanic origin. Above my pay grade.
But perhaps its most famous feature is the annual Lobster Festival in late November. Massive varieties of dishes that lobster can be transformed into abound, well beyond any traditional lobster meal. Thirteen restaurants around the island offer samples of luscious lobster creations for $10 each. Not a good week to be a lobster.
Alighting the ferry, we were overcome with the loudest music I’ve ever heard immediately alerting you to party time. Some caveats before you head out on your lobster trekking expedition. Unfortunately, getting from one restaurant to another is a challenge so you have to either rent a car, scooter or take a taxi around the island. And be sure to pick up the Lobster Fest Guidebook. Your mouth will start watering before you set foot on the island.
Of course, some well-known chef will be judging the two-day extravaganza. The criteria? Presentation, texture, originality, taste/flavor and overall impression. The subtleties were lost on me.
Okay, stop #1. The Anegada Reef Hotel offered a lobster kabob with white wine reduction. I enjoyed eating it but I couldn’t imagine judging it. Hell, the texture is chewy but I don’t know it that’s a 1 or a 10…Still, I was ready for sample #2.
Sample #2 is at the Lobster Trap, the ambiance of which reflects its name. Fortunately here, the music by comparison more resembled a hymn and I could breathe again. This round, there’s corn covered by Cajun lobster cream sauce, accompanied by a lobster, bacon and potato bite. Tastes as good as it sounds. Random people from different tables start moving rhythmically to the music — and often to, and with each other — gracefully using body parts I don’t even know I have.
I’m already amazed at how many varieties I’ve had and I’m only at sample #2. Sample #3 at the House of Beauty Beach Bar proffered Lobster Curry and Conch Fritters — not sure how the latter snuck in….
Though I was reaching beyond the point of eating yet another lobster concoction and drinking yet another Painkiller – the BVI’s signature rum drink — I somehow managed to persevere on both levels. By the time we got to Anegada Beach Club for sample #4 — a lobster deviled egg alongside a smoky lobster kabob and a brochette topped with – wanna guess? — more lobster. Admittedly, my eyes are glazing over and my stomach mildly protesting.
After sample #4, I started looking forward to crawling back to the ferry. If you have a lot of patience, a love of lobster even in unrecognizable forms, a way to negotiate the island and an effective set of ear plugs, you’re in for a really good time. If you need a break from lobster overkill, there’s an iguana sanctuary, a large conch shell mound, a small botanical island and, oh yes, those beaches with whiter sand and calmer waters than Tortola.
But then there’s Tipsy’s! Here the appeal went well beyond the lobster fritters. The walls are covered with entertaining paraphernalia — “No working during drinking hours,” “You bring the tequila, I’ll bring the bad decisions,” “Today’s forecast — 100% chance of beer.” I felt revitalized! Okay, just one more Painkiller.
There were still eight more samples to go – I never made it that far. Being an ardent fan of Maine lobster rolls, I was sorry to miss out on Anegada’s version but there was just so much of the briny, spiny little crustaceans I could handle. Maybe next year. For more information, visit BVITOURISM.COM or call: 1-800-835-8530.
